Thermoclap for heating radiator: classification

First of all, let's say when the thermostats for radiators are needed. They are needed in those rooms where the temperature needs to be reduced. Most often it is the upper apartment of high-rise buildings with the top of the coolant and vertical wiring. By installing the thermostat on the battery, exhibiting the desired temperature, you will be guaranteed to have a given parameter with an error of one degree.

When the thermostats do not help? If you need to increase the heat transfer of the heating device. They can only be reduced, and raise - no. What radiators are the thermostats work well? With everyone, except for cast iron: they have very large thermal inertia and such a device is almost useless. Now more about the types and features of their installation and operation.

Building and principle of operation

Constructive devices for adjusting the temperature of the batteries consist of:

• valve (valve);
• thermostatic element.

Thermoventil (also called the thermoclap) is, in fact, the usual valve. The same metal case with passing hole, saddle and cone. Cone is a locking mechanism. Running and rising, it changes the amount of leaking coolant. Everything as usual is unusual only the way to drive this shut-off mechanism.

The shut-off cone leads to the movement of the thermal head (thermostatic element, thermoelement). Its basis is a small hermetic and elastic cylinder filled with a thermal agent. The cylinder used in the thermostats is called "Silphon". The thermal agent is gas or liquid, but not any, but special: their volume should be very dependent on temperature. There are still bellows with solid thermal agents, but the time of their reaction to change the temperature is at least half an hour. So they are used very rarely.

This is how this device works: when heated, the substance increases in volume, stretches the cylinder. He presses on the piston, which moves the shut-off cone the thermoventil. The cone overlaps the coolant stream, the substance in the bellows cools. Cooled, it is compressed, the cylinder decreases in size. The spring-loaded mechanism lifts the shut-off cone, the coolant arrives again into the radiator and the device head is heated. In this way, the room temperature can be maintained with an accuracy of one degree.

But different devices give different accuracy. The thing is that the expansion and compression of the bellows occurs not sharply, but gradually. Therefore, the coolant is cut off and opens not sharply, but smoothly. Because of what the position is completely closed or completely open enough rare. What does it say about? The fact that indoors will be more comfortable.

The magnitude of the error is characterized by such an indicator as "hasthesis" thermal heads. The smaller this indicator, the faster the device is reacting to a change in temperature. But not always high accuracy needed, and prices are decent.

But installing the regulator on the radiator, be prepared for the fact that it will never get rid of evenly and completely. Constantly some part will be cold. To make sure that everything is fine in them, he did not beat and did not get carried away, remove the thermal head. The whole surface will be evenly warm after a while.

Type of thermostatic elements

The thermal head for the radiator is the top, replaceable part of the device. It can be several types:

• manual;
• mechanical;
• electronic.

Almost all serious manufacturers make a valve (body) compatible with any type of thermoelement. The principle of operation described above is a thermostat that is equipped with a mechanical head. This equipment is considered basic and modifications in this category very much. They differ in characteristics and price.

So that you can navigate at prices: European manufacturers mechanical thermal heads sell from 15 euros to 25 euros, there are anti-vandal models, they cost from 40 euros. There are devices with a remote sensor. They are put if the conditions do not allow to regulate the temperature on the radiator (for example, it is installed behind the cabinet, closed in niche, etc.). The length of the capillary tube is played here, which is associated with a thermostat sensor. Prices in this segment from 40-50 euros.

This is how the manual device looks like to adjust the temperature of the radiators in the context

Manual thermostat is the same regulator for the radiator. And the principle of operation is the same: rotate the handle, change the number of undergoing coolant. With the only difference that, if you wish, you can simply remove this thermoelement and put mechanical or electronic. The case is not needed to unscrew or change. They are universal. Heads for manual adjustment have a low price - from 4 euros.

Electronic thermal heads are the most expensive options, they are the most massive: there is a place for two batteries in the case. They differ in that they have more opportunities. In addition to maintaining a stable temperature throughout the time, you can program the temperature of the week or time of the day. For example, after 9 am, all households diverge, and appear only after 18 hours. It turns out that there is no need to spend money on maintaining high temperature during the daytime. Electronic thermoelements and make it possible in all days except the weekend, set a lower temperature during this gap. Put at least 6-8 o C, and in the evening you can warm the air to a comfortable 20 degree. With these devices, there is an opportunity to save on heating without reducing the level of comfort.

More thermal heads are divided by the type of temperature agent (the substance that is in the bellows). They are:

• liquid;
• gas.

The gas thermostat is considered less inertial, they say it reacts faster to temperature change. But the difference is not so big to give preference specifically some kind. The main thing is quality, not the type of temperature agent. Liquid thermostators are no less qualitative. And in the manufacture, they are simpler, therefore are produced in a wider assortment.

When choosing a thermoelement, you need to pay attention to the temperature range that the device can support. It is usually from +6 o C to + 26-28 o C. But may be differences. The wider range, the higher the price. Dimensions and design, connection method also change.

Thermoclap for heating radiator: classification

Now let's talk about the bottom of the thermostat - the valve (valve). First of all, it is necessary to know that the industry produces regulating devices for different systems. And only you need only devices for your system.

Devices for have at least two times greater hydraulic resistance than for one-tube. This is done specifically, since balancing in this case occurs due to the pressure drop on the valves. Therefore, installed devices with a small passage section. Putting such a device in, you will probably freeze. Therefore, be careful.

Sometimes modifications for single-tube systems are positioned as devices for systems with. They have hydraulic resistance reduced, and they can be used in one-tubes.

In a single-pipe system, install the thermostats with the passage ability not lower than 3 (KVS \u003d 3 and higher).

According to the method of supplying pipes, the radiators temperature controls are angular or straight (passing). There are still axial models. Choose in this case depending on the type of connection of the heating device. If the pipe is suitable on the side, it is more convenient to put a straight valve if from below is one of the angular.

The thermal guidelines differ in the material from which they are made. Metals are used that have good corrosion resistance. Some of them are applied to another advanced protective coating (usually nickel or spinery). So, thermostatic valves are made from:

• bronze, there is nickel plated and chrome;
• brass, there is nickel plated;
• stainless steel.

It is clear that the stainless steel is better, but also such valves are quite a lot, and they are rare on sale.

Installing the thermostat for the radiator

Thermostats for the radiator are installed mainly on the supply before entering the heater. Each of the valves skips the coolant one way. Where the thread should move shows the arrow on the housing. Coolant and must flow there. If the device is incorrectly connected, the device will not work. Another question is that it is possible to put a thermostat, both on the input and exit, but observing the direction of flow. And in both cases they work equally.

Connection options and installation of adjusting reinforcement. But for the possibility of repairing the radiator without breaking the system to the regulator, you need to put a ball valve (click on the picture to increase its size)

It is worth paying attention to the manufacturer's recommendations relative to the installation height. Most models should be at an altitude of 40-60 cm from the floor. They are calibrated at temperatures at this level. But not everywhere the feed is the top. Often radiators have a lower connection. Then besides the type of system (single-tube or two-pipe), pick up the installation height. If this model was not found, you can set a smaller temperature on the thermal head. If you put the recommended, it will be too hot, since below, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe floor, the air is cooled, and the model is configured to maintain the temperature measured at the height of the upper edge of the radiator. The second option is to configure the device yourself. The procedure is usually described in the passport, and the most common sequence of actions described below. And the third option is to put a thermostat with a remote sensor on the battery. Then absolutely anyway, at what height is the thermal head. The main is the location of the sensor. But such models are much more expensive. If it is critical, it is better to configure the regulator.

Please note that the thermostatic head must be turned horizontally. (look into the room). If it is prescribed up, it is constantly in a stream of hot air that comes from the pipe. Therefore, the substance in the bellows is almost always heated, and the radiator is turned off. The result is cold in the room.

To work correctly, you need to install it "head" into the room

A little better situation if the battery is installed in a niche, closed or curtain. The thermoelement is also "hot" but not so much. Here you can go in two ways: or set a large temperature on the knob, or use the remote sensor. Models with remote thermal controllers, over, silence, but you can choose a control point at your discretion.

What else needs to be remembered: when installing in a single-tube system, bypass is required. And unregulated. Then, with a closed feed on the radiator, the riser will not be blocked, and you will not come "hello" from the neighbors.

Thermoclap diffuses and by type of connection: there are with cape nuts, there are crimp. Accordingly, they are joined with those or other types of pipes. Usually, the type of connection is specified in the specification or description of the product, as well as with what pipes can be used.

Setting the regulator

In order for the device to work correctly and supported the desired temperature, it is necessary to pre-configure. When working in the room in the room, close the doors, set the thermometer where you consider to correctly control the temperature. Now proceed to setup:

• Open the flow of the coolant completely. This is done by turning the thermal head until the left is left.
• The temperature will start climbing. When it becomes above 5-6 o C, go to the next item.
• To block the coolant stream by turning the thermostat head to the right until it stops. The room will gradually become cooler.
• When achieving the desired temperature, start the gradual to open the valve. As soon as hear that the coolant is incisible, and the body to the touch became warm, stop rotating. This will be the position, the thermal heads at which the temperature is comfortable for you. Usually, on the cap are marks - numbers - on them and you can navigate.

Adjusting the thermostat is an easy procedure, but it is it that allows you to calibrate it to your requirements. Mostly, the sequence is standard, but sometimes may differ. Then the entire sequence of actions should be painted in the passport. Some firms even removed the videos that clearly demonstrate how to install and regulate their products.

RESULTS

Temperature controllers for heating batteries can be with three types of heads: manual, mechanical and electronic. Any kind can only reduce the temperature, it is unable to increase it.