How to grow grapes from cuttings. How to grow grape cuttings in the spring at home? Growing grape seedlings from cuttings in various ways

Heat-loving grapes are grown everywhere today, propagating varieties and hybrid forms of culture. For planting, seedlings are purchased in nurseries or cuttings are used. Growing grapes from a cuttings at home is troublesome, but gardeners are not stopped by difficulties. Thanks to their own planting material, plants are more resistant to local climatic conditions. In addition, this is how full-fledged seedlings of a favorite variety are grown.

When planning planting, take into account the climate of the region. In the south, various grape varieties, including late grape varieties, are suitable for cultivation. In the conditions of central Russia, the Moscow region, the regions of the North-West and further, to the north, a culture of early ripening is selected. In the south, you can plant grapes with cuttings in the fall, in the spring the seedlings will quickly grow.

In addition to the growing season, attention is paid to the frost resistance of the variety, resistance to diseases and infections. In areas with short summers, it is recommended to plant the capricious "southerner" in greenhouses. It is taken into account that indoors there is a high risk of fungal diseases affecting grapes. But greenhouse method cultivation will allow you to collect good harvests of berries and enjoy their taste.

Growing grape cuttings

Growing grape cuttings is not so difficult, the methods are available even for novice winegrowers. Compliance with certain agricultural techniques, care and maintenance is the main thing that culture requires.

Cutting cuttings

First, let's define the terminology. Cuttings (or shanks) are usually called a part of a grape shoot with several buds. To obtain planting material in the fall, they start cutting shoots. The timing of the procedure is after the leaves have completely fallen from the bushes. Helpful hints:

for slicing, shoots are selected, which gave the largest bunches of berries in the season.
it is advisable to choose straight branches without curvature;
cuttings are cut only at positive air temperatures.

Two-year-old branches, without spots, bark defects, are suitable for grafting. The optimal size of the thickness is 0.7-1 cm, but the parameters depend on the characteristics of the variety. There are grape varieties that initially have thin vines.

On a note!

Shoots with thick, loose wood are not suitable for cuttings.

Choose healthy bushes with characteristics characteristic of a particular variety. The length of the shanks is determined by the number of buds. The most suitable ones are with two or three eyes, although shoots with one or four buds take root well.

Cuttings are cut, observing certain rules:

the lower cut is made obliquely, slightly receding from the lower kidney;
the upper cut is straight, a distance of 3-4 cm is left above the eye.

Thanks to the different cuts, later it is easy to figure out where the shank is on top and where is the bottom. Sometimes gardeners cut the vine into long segments - 60-120 cm, and in the spring they divide them into cuttings.

After cutting, the shoots are tied according to varieties, marked, processed and placed on.

Storage

Suitable for storage:

refrigerator shelf (if there are few cuttings);
dry basement;
a plot in the country where the cuttings are laid in trenches and covered until spring.

In a region with snowy winters, it is convenient to store in snowdrifts.

Before laying, the shanks are prepared for wintering:

Soak in bowls or flat containers of water, laying the shoots horizontally. The water should cover the plants lightly. Term - one day.
Then it is soaked for 5-10 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate (300 grams per bucket of water).
Dry.
Wrap in bunches in cling film.

For better preservation, some gardeners paraffin cut shoots. Instead of film for storage, ordinary plastic bottles will work.

Storage temperature: from 0 to + 5ºC, if it is higher, the kidneys will begin to swell. Chubuki are laid, without mixing, in bundles according to varieties.

During storage, the shanks are periodically checked. Finding that buds swell on the shoots, they lower the temperature. For this, the grapes are removed to a colder place (in the basement), transferred to another, colder shelf in the refrigerator.

When wintering in a snowdrift until the snow cover falls, grapes are kept in bunches in burlap. As soon as the first frosts hit, the bundles are transferred to the basement. After snowfalls, shoots are packed in white sugar bags, in plastic bottles and buried in snowdrifts. The depth of the snow cover from above must be at least 50 cm.

Preparing for landing

Grape cuttings well preserved after wintering take root quickly. Before planting, examine all specimens, discarding diseased or damaged shoots.

Examine the bark of the cuttings. It should not have dark spots, rot, deformations.
Carefully cut the stem across. If the cut is brown or black, then the cutting is not suitable for planting. In high-quality shanks, the cut is light green, slightly damp. There should be a little moisture, a few drops.

After inspecting the cuttings, it is required to "wake up". This is done to revitalize plant tissues, prepare for germination.

The grapes are placed in shallow containers with warm water for 1.5-2 days. After that, for a few more hours, the shoots are immersed in a solution with a root former.

On a note!

To stimulate the formation of roots, Kornevin, Zircon, aloe juice or honey solution (a tablespoon per bucket of water) are suitable.

Experienced gardeners plant cuttings without prior germination, immediately in pots with soil. But there is a risk that cuttings without roots will not take root. For insurance, it is recommended to first germinate the shanks, and only then, with the roots, plant them in pots.

Germination

To awaken the roots, use different ways:

germination in water;
germination in wet sawdust.

Long vines are pre-cut into cuttings, then a few scratches are applied with a knife at the bottom of the cuttings. Callus floats on the stem, which contributes to the rapid formation of roots.

The first version of germination is standard:

A little melt water is poured into any container with a volume of 1 liter (bottle, glass jar), with a layer of 5-6 cm.
Place the cuttings in the container.
The upper cut of the shoots is covered with garden pitch.

The jar is placed on a windowsill, covered with a transparent bag on top to obtain a "greenhouse" effect. For disinfection, add a couple of activated carbon tablets to the water.

Temperature readings: + 25ºC… + 30ºC - near the roots, + 10ºC - in the upper part, near the kidneys. Such a difference is necessary so that the seedlings first release the roots, and only then the buds bloom. Thanks to kilchevaniye, the risk of death of cuttings is reduced, the chance of rapid rooting increases.

In addition to warmth, grapes need ample light. The best place is near the window, only you need to put a screen (cardboard, cloth) to protect it from cool air currents.

Second way: sprouting in sawdust. For this:

A layer of sawdust (5-6 cm) is poured into the container.
Spill the sawdust gently with warm water.
Shoots are placed in a container and another layer of sawdust is added.
From time to time, the layer is moistened, waiting for the roots to appear.

Only high-quality sawdust, previously steamed with boiling water, are suitable for germination.

Planting grape cuttings in cups or pots

In the middle lane and northern regions, after germination, the grapes are planted in prepared cups or pots with soil.

Suitable containers:

cardboard glasses;
cut plastic bottles (1-1.5 liters).

Be sure to pierce holes in the bottom to release excess moisture. Broken brick, expanded clay, calcined small pebbles are used for drainage.

The soil is prepared in advance by mixing fertile sod land and river sand (1: 1). Ready-made soil mixes from a store are suitable, in which calcined river sand and perlite are added for looseness. When to plant? Approximately in March, 2-2.5 months before disembarking to a permanent place.

Place the seedling in a pot, sprinkle with soil and slightly moisten. It is advisable to define one cuttings in each container, so the grapes will be free. Chubuki with two eyes are planted, completely burying the buds in the nutrient mixture (the upper one should only slightly "look out" above the ground). In seedlings with three eyes, one bud should be in the ground, the second near the very surface of the soil, and the third above the ground.

Plants planted in glasses or pots without leaves are covered with a plastic bag on top. If there are leaves, they do without covering with a bag.

Care of planted cuttings

Subsequent care of the grape bushes is usual:

watering;
loosening;
maintaining optimal temperature;
correct lighting.

Stagnation of water in containers is excluded, but the soil should not dry out. Irrigate the soil regularly, controlling the moisture content. In city apartments, when the heating is on, the air is dry, which negatively affects the growth of cuttings. In order to provide a comfortable microclimate, jars of water are installed near the grapes. Watered with warm, settled water, just above room temperature.

If the plants from above were covered with a plastic bag, then they remove it gradually, accustoming the plants to open air. In the first weeks, the seedlings do not need too much light, but after the leaves unfold, additional lighting is arranged.

fluorescent lamp;
LED lights.

Temperature range: + 25ºC… + 27ºC, but even if the indicators are slightly lower, it's okay.

Approximately 30-40 days after planting the sprouted seedlings, the grapes are fed. A comprehensive mineral fertilizer(azofoska, nitrofoska), composition for Novofert grapes.

About 18-20 days before the intended transplantation into the ground, the plants are hardened. To do this, the grapes are taken out to the balcony, terrace, veranda. At first, the residence time is limited to 20-40 minutes, then the seedlings are left in pots for a day. When warm days come, the plants are left overnight, and then, in late May or early June, they are planted in the ground.

Diseases and methods of their treatment

It is possible to get healthy grape seedlings only with proper and complete care. It is important to use healthy bushes that are not affected by fungal infections for cutting.

In order to avoid diseases, cuttings are processed before laying for winter storage, as well as before planting in pots. Suitable drugs:

foundation;
rovral.

Some gardeners treat cut cuttings with pink potassium permanganate solution. Treatment with drugs will protect planting material from dangerous microorganisms, to avoid the occurrence of foci of the disease during storage.

For the same purpose, during germination, activated carbon and wood ash are added to the water with cuttings. If the substrate is made of sawdust, then once a week it is useful to spray them with Rovral's solution.

When growing grapes from cuttings, observe the leaves. If the leaf blades begin to change color, turn yellow, this is a signal of the possible appearance of a dangerous mildew infection. Promptly prepare Bordeaux mixture and process the cuttings. Instead of Bordeaux liquid, you can use the drug Ridomil Gold.

With waterlogged soil or lack of moisture, the leaves turn black. The same happens in situations where the soil for the seedlings is incorrectly selected (too dense structure). Exit: immediately change the soil in the pots, adjust the watering regime of the plants.

Planting cuttings in a greenhouse, greenhouse or open ground

Not every gardener can grow grape cuttings at home. the green "vegetable garden" is transferred to the greenhouse. In the south, cuttings are planted directly into the ground.

Planting in pots in a greenhouse or greenhouse

The main work begins at the end of February. The activities are the same as when growing cuttings in an apartment:

inspection of cuttings;
disinfection;
cutting a long vine if necessary;
germination.

The procedure for germinating roots in water is sometimes replaced by planting cuttings in a greenhouse in wet sand. In this case, the air temperature should be at least + 12ºC, and even better if it is higher. These indicators are optimal for root formation. Therefore, if in the greenhouse it is not possible to provide necessary conditions, cuttings are grown at home.

With the proper regimen, after about 19-21 days, the rudiments of the roots appear, the kidneys swell. When the roots grow back by 2-3 cm, the seedlings are transplanted from the sand into special pots with sod soil.

The temperature in the greenhouse is maintained not lower than + 24ºC… + 25ºC, humidity is controlled. When several shoots grow on the cuttings, the strongest is left, the rest are plucked out. As soon as it reaches a height of 50-60 cm, pinch it. Such cuttings root better in a permanent place and grow well.

- end of May or beginning of June. The grapes are preliminarily prepared for new conditions, leaving the greenhouse doors and windows open.

Landing in the ground

For grape cuttings, a well-lit place, sheltered from the winds, is chosen on the site. Prepare small holes, humus in advance.

How to plant seedlings without stressing the plants? The cuttings are carefully removed from the pots or cups, together with an earthen lump, set in the pits. They fill it up with soil, humus, lightly irrigate and slightly compact the earth around. At the same time, a stake is placed next to it to support the plant.

The specifics of growing grape cuttings in different regions

The process of growing planting material varies greatly depending on climatic conditions region. If in the southernmost regions they rarely associate with the cultivation of seedlings at home, then in the north it cannot be otherwise.

Southern regions (Kuban, Krasnodar Territory)

In these regions, rich yields of delicious grapes are obtained. They practice the cultivation of grapes from cuttings, while the plants are planted immediately in open ground... Popular ways:

autumn planting with a "long vine";
landing in the wells in the spring ("ramrod").

On the fertile black soil of the Kuban, cuttings quickly take root, grow and subsequently delight winegrowers with excellent yields.

Moscow suburbs

How ? The best way- use of heated greenhouses or at home.

The climate of the Moscow region is unpredictable, often in winter, severe cold replaces thaws. Varieties of early vegetation periods with high frost resistance are recommended.

Only germinated grape cuttings are planted in pots, provide full care. In open ground, plants are determined not earlier than June 10-15, when the threat of dangerous return frosts has passed.

Belarus

Many grape varieties are successfully growing on the territory of Belarus. A culture is grown from cuttings most often at home, sometimes in greenhouses. The climate in most of the territory is mild, winters are usually warm. But in summer there may not be enough warm days, so it is recommended to choose varieties with early dates ripening. They start at the end of February; they are planted in a permanent place in the ground at the end of May.

Ural, North-West

The main schemes and measures for germination and planting of cuttings in these harsh regions are similar to those practiced in the Moscow region. The difference in timing, after all, winters here are long, frosty, stable warm temperatures installed no earlier than the beginning of June. Therefore, after growing the cuttings at home, the plants are put in greenhouses or greenhouses in pots for the whole summer.

With good rapid growth and development of seedlings, around the middle of summer, they are carefully transferred into large containers (for example, five-liter cut plastic bottles, old buckets). Until September, seedlings grow in them, and then the plants that have grown over the summer are transplanted into the ground.

Before the onset of cold weather, the grapes are carefully huddled, reliably covered for the winter.

" Grape

Grapes are a very thermophilic plant and we are used to being grown on huge plantations, mainly in southern countries. But over the past few decades, through the efforts of breeders, many hybrid varieties have been bred that are capable of bearing fruit in central Russia, and even closer to the north in closed greenhouses. At an average ripening temperature of + 18 ° C, you can get a harvest of juicy, aromatic berries in just 100-110 days. We will talk about the cultivation and cultivation of such grapes further.

Grapes are exactly the kind of culture that does not propagate by seeds, since in this case it does not retain its original genetic traits... It is not always possible to buy a ready-made seedling of a favorite variety. That is why the most accessible and widespread method of propagation of vines - cuttings.

Its availability lies in the fact that at home it is very easy to preserve, plant and root grape cuttings, prepare them for planting in open ground or a greenhouse. It is best to do this at home, since the rooting process should begin no later than late February - early March.

The most important thing is to choose a grape variety that is good at rooting.

Now there are many hybrid varieties possess this ability, since cuttings are one of the main areas of work of breeders. Most often, gardeners like to plant table varieties on a garden plot with excellent taste, sugar content, large berries (preferably seedless), with early or mid-ripening periods. The following varieties meet almost all of these requirements: Pleven, and many others.

Before planting grapes in the ground, it is necessary to germinate the cuttings and wait for the first leaves to appear.

Growing features

Growing grapes in a greenhouse or in the open field directly depends on the natural climatic conditions of the region. It is clear that in the southern regions in the open field, grapes will have time to ripen not only early varieties, but also later. But in the Middle zone, the Moscow region and further to the north in open soils, only the harvest of the earliest varieties will ripen.

In regions where summers are short and winters are cold, it is best to grow vines in greenhouses in order to enjoy the taste of berries with different ripening periods for a longer time. But indoors, you will have to more carefully monitor the health of the bushes., microclimate, soil condition, since cases of fungal and other infections spread much faster. In an enclosed space, it is easier to prevent the occurrence of typical diseases than to eradicate them.

Step-by-step technology for growing grape bushes from cuttings

The whole process of obtaining rooted seedlings takes several months, but it is not very difficult in terms of labor intensity. Even novice gardeners who decide to take up viticulture are able to achieve the best results - this culture is so unpretentious, although it requires some attention. The main thing is to properly care for and carry out certain activities on time.

Cutting and storing shanks

The very first stage is the preparation of planting material. During the pruning of grapes in the fall, when all the branches that bear fruit this year are removed, cuttings are being prepared. It is the fruit branches that serve the most the best material for future seedlings. What is necessary take into account:

pruning is carried out after leaf fall, before the onset of the first frost;
the vine should be as straight as possible, healthy, light brown or sandy in color;
the longer the stalk, the better the reproduction will be.

The branch should be without visible damage, with a light bark, on the cut - green, with droplets of liquid (juice) protruding on it, the lower cut is made straight, and the upper cut oblique. Cutting length - at least 40-45 cm, cut diameter - 10-12 mm + 3-4 living buds with an interval of 10 cm between them.Cut with a very sharp secateurs or a knife so that their tissues do not wrinkle, at a distance from the buds at least 2 -3 cm.

Cut cuttings must be prepared for storage:

soak in cold water for 1-2 days, changing the water 2 times a day;
process with a solution of vitriol or potassium permanganate (it is best to soak for half an hour);
spread out on paper napkins (towels) and dry well from excess moisture;
collect cuttings in a bunch, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, tie, fix a tag with the name of the variety (if there are grapes of several varieties, you need to store them in different bags, since different varieties have a bad effect on each other during storage); instead of film you can use plastic bottles- lower the vine through the neck and close the lid.

Store the cuttings at t 0 + 5 ° C (a refrigerator is suitable, glazed balcony, basement).

Cuttings can be stored both in the refrigerator and in the basement.

Preparation for rooting

In late February - early March, they begin to root the planting material. First you need to check how the material was preserved. To do this, the sections are updated, each at a distance of 0.5-2 cm from the upper and lower buds, respectively, in an oblique and direct way - they should be green and moist. Then the cuttings are immersed in water for 1-2 days (depending on the degree of dryness of the branches), to stimulate growth, it is necessary to add honey, aloe juice or humate (1 tablespoon / 10l of water).

At the lower heel, where roots will grow, several grooves 2-3 mm deep and 2 cm long should be made with a needle - this will help to get a more developed, lush root system. The upper cut can be treated with paraffin.

Germinating the cuttings in water

Put a layer of cotton wool about 2 cm in an ordinary glass liter jar on the bottom, pour the same amount of water (melted water is best), lower the cuttings. The heel - the bottom edge - should be in the water at a depth of 4-5 cm. To avoid decay of the liquid, you can put 2-3 tablets of activated carbon, add water periodically. You can put a plastic bag on top of the jar to create a greenhouse effect, put it on the windowsill.

Grapes, like any plant, need an abundance of light and warmth for vigorous growth. Twigs will appear first, and then roots. To root system developed, the shoots should be broken off, for a bush one, the very last shoot will be enough.

Planting in pots in a greenhouse or greenhouse

The soil for seedlings must be prepared in the fall by mixing equal amounts of sod soil, peat, sand, rotted manure or compost; ready-mix from the store is also suitable. As a container, you can use plastic bottles, larger disposable cups, etc., make drainage holes. A little drainage is poured at the bottom of the container, then the prepared soil, the cutting is carefully lowered onto it, poured with soil, slightly (!) Moistened.

The heel of the seedling should be at a depth of 1/3 of the container, and the young shoots above the ground. Until about the end of May - beginning of June, young seedlings will have time to root well, develop full-fledged leaves and branches, and prepare for planting in the ground.

Rooting in sawdust or soil

In the southern regions, where in March the soil warms up to a temperature of 10-12 degrees at a depth of 10 cm, cuttings after processing and soaking can be planted directly into the ground - a school. Planting is carried out in prepared, well-fertilized soil to a depth of 40 cm. The cuttings are placed in pits (or a furrow), covered with earth up to half, tamped well, watered abundantly, pits are poured to the top. 2 buds should remain on the surface of the earth. Focusing on the climate of the region, you can cover the surface or temporarily cover it with a film.

Another fairly common way to germinate cuttings is in sawdust.

The sawdust should only be of deciduous trees, without any admixture of harmful plywood or chipboard sawdust. They must be steamed before use - pour boiling water, then cool and in a deep dish (bucket) first pour a small layer on the bottom. Then, in an inclined state, lay out the sawdust in layers, placing the cuttings vertically between them. After planting, cover the dishes with foil, put them in a warm place and moisten the environment from time to time until sprouts and roots appear.

Correct planting of seedlings in open ground

The technology for planting in open ground is simple. The finished rooted seedling is first prepared for planting in open ground. To do this, within 5-7 days, seedlings in pots are taken out into the street, avoiding direct sunlight. After hardening, cuttings are lowered into the prepared holes together with an earthen lump, the holes are poured with earth mixed with humus, watered with warm water. The main thing is not to deepen the plant and water it moderately. In order not to damage the roots during planting, it is better to carefully cut plastic cups or other containers, then remove the seedling with an earthy clod.

Be sure to immediately fix the support next to the grape seedling planted in the ground!

Germinating a grape stalk, rooting it and growing a seedling of your favorite crunchy sweet berry is not a lot of work. This can be done both in a polycarbonate greenhouse or greenhouse, and in the open field. Proper care for your pet - and he will thank you with active growth and a rich harvest, literally, in two or three years.

Growers consider grape propagation by cuttings to be the most in a simple way... Indeed, when grapes are pruned, a huge number of shoots remain from which cuttings can be obtained. I planted it - you see, something will grow! But everything is simple only at first glance. Let's figure it out.

Sowing grapes with seeds does not always give good result... Propagation by cuttings is a popular method among winegrowers. The basis of this method is that the culture can fully recover and develop from one shoot, while all the properties of the mother vine will be preserved.

In order for the planting of shanks to bring a good harvest, first of all, you need to properly prepare grape cuttings. Landing is carried out in stages:

cutting cuttings;
preservation of shanks for planting;
preparatory work for rooting.

The optimal time for cutting cuttings is autumn (from November 15 to December 15). The harvest is harvested, the foliage from the grapes has fallen, the vine is prepared for the winter period. It is at this time that it is best to carry out cuttings of homemade grapes, since all the nutrients in the cuttings are best preserved and they are ready to withstand low temperatures. Fruit branches are taken for the shanks. The twig should be completely bare.

There should be four buds on the stem. Cut it off at an angle from the eye at a distance of 2 cm from the upper kidney. The lower part is trimmed under the lower eyelet in a straight line. To make the roots form faster, make three strips in a vertical plane with a knife. Now collect all the shanks by grade and tie them into bunches. Sign each one to know the grade.

To increase physiological moisture, the cuttings are placed in water directly in the bunches, then they are treated with copper sulfate and dried. Then we move on to the second stage - for storage, the bundles are wrapped in film or polyethylene and placed in a cool place. During winter period the shanks are examined and turned.

Video "Growing grape seedlings from cuttings"

In this video, an expert will show you a proven method of growing grape seedlings from cuttings.

Preparation for rooting

In the early days of the last month of winter, cuttings are taken out of the basement and carefully examined. If you see liquid oozing from the shanks, it means that they have rotted and cannot be rooted. If, when pressing on the cut, no liquid appears, then the cutting is dry and also unsuitable for breeding. But if you saw the cherished moisture on the cut, then the cutting endured the winter well.

Cut the stalk and inspect the fluid that comes out. The desired result is a light green color. In order for the grapes to multiply successfully, the stems are placed in warm water and soaked for 48 hours. The fluid is changed every 24 hours. After soaking, the shanks are placed in a root-stimulating solution, where they remain for another day.

Before propagating the grapes by cuttings, the shanks are placed in plastic cups until they sprout.

Take big size cups and make three holes on the bottom, pour sand and humus. Now put a small glass, and cover the gaps between the walls with earth, crush and water. Sand, previously washed, is poured into a glass, water is poured onto it and the small glass is removed. In the center of the slide, a hole is made of sand and a stalk of homemade grapes is placed there.

Pour water and cover with sand. Take plastic bottle, cut off the bottom and cover the glass with a shank. Take care of your seedlings every day - water them with warm water. As soon as you see the roots and green leaves, you can remove the bottle.

The wild grape bears a great resemblance to the liana. It is great for decorating suburban areas. In this case, propagation by cuttings is also suitable.

Open ground planting technology

Sprouted cuttings are planted taking into account the climatic conditions of a particular area. You need to start the process when you are sure that there will be no frost. The best option is late May - early summer (June).

The pits should be prepared first. You can do this in the fall or in early spring... Now prepare the shanks, 20 liters of water, and make holes in the hole so that the roots fit. Place the sprouted shafts in the hole, cover with soil and pour out the water.

After all the moisture has been absorbed, soil is poured into the hole to the level of the developed upper peephole. Its location should be 5–7 cm below the soil level. In parallel, a stake made of wood and metal is placed in the bottom of the prepared hole so that the vine has something to lean on. On the corresponding video, you can learn more about the details of the process.

Features of green cuttings

You can grow grapes by sprouting green cuttings. In the spring, shoots are cut and placed in water, cuttings are made into two buds. The finished shafts are placed back in the liquid. In the box, soil is poured from compost and sod land in equal proportions and green cuttings are placed there.

To make the earth airy, loosened, you can take it in the place where the mole is digging a mink. A necessary condition is to create darkening at the initial stage. To do this, slats are installed in the jar so that a frame is obtained, on which a cellophane bag is subsequently put on. When the cuttings grow, they are removed. 3-4 cuttings are planted in one jar to a depth of 5-6 cm. The entire structure is placed on the south window until it takes root.

If you did everything correctly, then for about 10 days the structure can be left alone. After this period, the seedlings are watered and aerated once a week. It takes 5-6 weeks for rooting, and then the seedlings are planted in open ground.

Further care of seedlings

From proper care the strength and growth of the bush depends. Runaway needs to be created the necessary conditions: Maintain soil moisture, protect from pests, control weeds. Before planting, you need to install the trellis.

During the growing period, grapes must be tied to trellises. During the season, they watered a couple of times through drainage pipes, at the same time do feeding with chicken droppings. Pruning is done in the spring.

Viticulture is a troublesome occupation, but a rewarding one. Therefore, a rare summer resident, having mastered the principles of caring for one bush, does not dream of growing an entire plantation on his site. Grapes reproduce only vegetatively, and if you learn to cut them, there will never be any problems with planting material. In the article we will talk about the propagation of grapes by cuttings for beginners, we will consider the main issues of cuttings.

When and how to harvest grape cuttings

Cuttings of grapes (chubuk) are harvested in the fall, after leaf fall, and stored until spring. Such complexity is needed in order to preserve as many productive eyes as possible. They begin to prepare the vine for propagation by cuttings at the end of summer, when the harvest is ripe. The wood must mature properly, because green cuttings cannot be stored for a long time. To accelerate the ripening of wood, two things are done: they stop watering and set a phosphorus-potassium supplement - for example, 20 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium sulfate.

Cutting and preparing cuttings is done as follows:

With a sharp, clean pruner, the thin top of the vine is cut off.
The lower and central parts are divided into segments 50-70 cm long.
The shafts are densely sprayed with a solution of a fungicide - for example, the drug "Ronilan" or "Topsin-M".
The top and bottom sections are dipped into molten, non-hot paraffin wax.

Tip # 1. The procedure for preparing the shafts is performed as quickly as possible, without allowing the cut material to lie for a long time. This allows you to retain as much moisture as possible in the tissues of the cuttings.

Grape cuttings are harvested with a reserve - not all may survive in winter, and not every one of those saved will subsequently give roots.

Storing grape cuttings at home

For the successful preservation of cuttings in winter, two conditions must be met: low temperature and high humidity. Novice growers usually do not lay a large number of chubukov. Therefore, for them, the most convenient place to save planting material will be an ordinary refrigerator.

So that the cuttings do not wake up ahead of time, the storage temperature should not rise above + 4-5 0 C. These are the values that are maintained in the vegetable section or on the door of standard refrigerators:

The stored material is inspected and moistened from time to time. Rotting cuttings are thrown away, healthy cuttings are treated with a fungicide and put in place.

Several small potatoes can be placed in a container with cuttings to maintain moisture.

3 mistakes when rooting grape shanks

When starting to rooting preserved cuttings, novice fruit growers sometimes make mistakes that lead to the death of the planting material:

Mistake # 1. Wrong timing of the start of rooting.

Mistake # 2. Failure to comply with the temperature conditions for rooting.

For proper root germination, the temperature at the heel of the cutting should be higher than at the top. If it is the other way around, the eyes will first start to grow, and the emerging shoot will use up the supply of nutrients before the roots begin to grow. Even if the stem does not die, the seedling will come out weak and painful.

Mistake number 3. Incorrect preparation of cuttings for rooting.

Under the most ideal storage conditions, cuttings lose some of their moisture by spring. Dried stems will either not germinate at all, or will very quickly stop growth and die. Therefore, before starting rooting, they must be soaked in soft water for about two days, having previously updated the lower and upper cut.

Tip # 2. It is possible to determine whether there is enough moisture in the cutting and whether it is time to take it out of the container for soaking, by squeezing it near the heel zone. If water drops are found on the cut when pressing, the soaking is stopped.

The method of rooting shanks according to P.P. Radchevsky

Various methods are used to stimulate the formation of roots on shanks. One of the simplest is the method of the professor of the Kuban Agrarian University Pyotr Radchevsky.

Rooting according to Radchevsky is done as follows:

One-liter jars are filled with 3 cm of soft filtered water.
The shanks prepared for rooting are placed in water. The updated upper slice must be waxed again.
Banks are placed on a warm light windowsill.
Water, if necessary, is added without going over the three-centimeter mark. If the windowsill is hot, it is better to open the window slightly so that the upper part of the cuttings is cool. When doing this, make sure that the water remains warm.
When the roots reach a length of 2-3 mm, the shanks are planted in glasses with soil.

The advantages of the Radchevsky method are simplicity and efficiency. The rooting rate is high and the seedlings are robust. The disadvantage is the excessive fragility of the roots.

In the water for rooting according to Radchevsky, you can add a drug to stimulate root formation.

Rooting method of shanks according to N.L. Puzenko

An agronomist from Volgograd, Natalia Puzenko, proposed a rooting method, which consists in the following:

Lay out the shafts prepared for rooting on a piece of damp, clean cloth.
Wrap a cloth around the bottom of the cuttings, leaving the top free.
Lay a film over the fabric to retain moisture.
Lay the rolls horizontally on a cabinet or refrigerator so that the tops are directed towards the window.
Regularly check the moisture content of the fabric, spray it with a spray bottle.

The advantage of the technique is simplicity, economy of space, and a high percentage of rooting. The roots on the shanks appear earlier than the eyes wake up, which makes future seedlings strong and strong. If you follow the technology exactly, there are no drawbacks to the Pusenko method.

Rooting grape cuttings in substrates

It is possible to germinate shafts directly in containers with substrates. This technique was developed in detail by the Belarusian winegrower Vadim Tochilin. Tall plastic cups, cut-off bottles, cans that match the height, milk bags can be used as a rooting container.

The essence of the method is simple:

The shanks are disinfected in a strong solution of potassium permanganate for 8 hours and soaked in water.
The lower slice is updated and processed by Kornevin or Heteroauxin.
The container is filled with a moist rooting medium.
The cuttings are placed in the substrate so that about 5 cm remains to the bottom.
The container is placed above the battery near the window and covered with a cut-off bottle or bag on top to maintain high humidity. As it dries, the substrate is moistened.

For rooting cuttings using this technique, you can use different kinds substrate:

Substrate	Advantages	Flaws
Sawdust	Availability, low cost, air permeability, good moisture retention ability.	There is a risk of waterlogging the substrate. Mold may develop - good disinfection required.
Vermiculite	High moisture absorption capacity, sterility, breathability.	High price.
Sphagnum moss	Air permeability, moisture capacity, antiseptic properties.	Not detected.
Coconut substrate	Looseness and air permeability, sterility, high moisture capacity.	Not detected.

The advantages of the Tochilin method are a high yield of rooted cuttings. Disadvantages - the risk of overgrowth of roots, which can break off during transplantation, and wasteful waste of space.

Rooted grape cuttings care

Chubuki are transplanted into nutrient soil when the length of the roots reaches 2-3 mm. The containers must be high so that the shank is immersed in them for almost the entire length. A top about 5 cm long is left on the surface.

Growing up is carried out until mid-late May, and at this time, the growing seedlings need careful care. Watering is carried out approximately every 10 days, depending on the rate of drying of the soil. It is necessary to supply water from the bottom, therefore, drainage holes must be made in the containers in advance.

A lot of light is needed for the normal development of seedlings. If natural lighting is scarce, you need to supplement the grapes with phytolamps. A few days before transplanting into open ground, the seedlings begin to harden, taking out during the day to Fresh air... Immediately before transplanting, you can let the plants spend the night outside.

Supplementary lighting equipment - required element gardener's arsenal, providing plants with conditions for full-fledged photosynthesis.

Fertilizers for rooted grape cuttings

Top dressing of grapes begins at the growing stage. Read also the article: → "". For this, it is better to use special formulations:

Name	Description	Application
"A clean sheet for grapes"	Water-soluble mineral complex with a predominance of nitrogen. Stimulates the growth of the seedling, helps in the formation of a healthy root system.	Dissolve 1 scoop in 5 liters of water and add with watering.
Florovit for grapes	A granular complex that activates vegetation, increases immunity and relieves stress from adverse conditions.	Make a solution according to the instructions and add with watering.
"BiOPON for grapes"	Multicomponent complex providing good nutrition growing seedling. Accelerates growth and fruiting.	Distribute a pinch into the cups and water the grapes well. Contribute to landing pit when transplanting.
"Health Aqua for grapes"	Liquid organomineral fertilizer that accelerates the formation of the root system and powerful leaf apparatus.

Having your own well-groomed and fruitful vineyard is the dream and concern of almost any gardener. Today there are many varieties suitable for different areas. The grapes are able to grow both in warm regions and with short summers. But in order to choose the right variety for the climatic zone, it is better to propagate this berry by cuttings. This is a rather troublesome and responsible business, but as a result the gardener will get exactly what he needs.

How to plant grapes with cuttings at home

First you need to cut the cuttings. To do this, choose healthy grapes with a stiff mother vine. The vine must be well ripe and have live buds. Take a long shoot or segment. The bigger it is, the better... They begin to harvest them even before the first frost. The stalk should be about 1 cm in diameter and have 4 to 8 buds. Basic rules of preparation:

Many gardeners it is recommended to check the workpieces every month for the moment of rotting, mold and drying out. If there are problems, then they do everything that is necessary again: washed, processed, dried and sent back for storage.

Planting grapes with cuttings at home: rooting

Breeding grapes with cuttings - troublesome business required full adherence to the technique. Before planting a finished seedling, you need to carry out proper rooting. They do it in the following way:

As soon as the first bud opens, after 10 days, the first roots should appear... When the root system begins to develop, the seedling is planted in a special substrate. At the bottom of the container, drainage is first laid, and then the grape substrate. The stalk is placed in a bowl and covered with the mixture to the top so that the highest bud alone remains on the surface. After rooting, the seedling is watered and placed on the southern, sunny side for good growth... For good survival, some experts advise feeding young grapes. Growing grapes from cuttings does not take place without rooting. This is an important stage and condition for reproduction.

Kilchev method

This is a very interesting way to help the plant develop roots quickly and take root after planting. This implies both planting in open ground and forcing. The method helps the cuttings to form calli. They are achieved through different temperatures ... One half is in the cold and the other half is warm. To achieve this, the cutting is buried in the ground, and the rest of 10-15 cm is covered with humus. Through this method, the roots develop and grow earlier than the buds.

For a good effect, you can additionally create conditions like in a greenhouse. It is enough to cover with foil or glass. The germination time of the cuttings will directly depend on the weather conditions. The higher the temperature, the faster the kilchev method will pass.

Growing grapes from cuttings at home: school

The groove in which the cuttings should be planted is called a school. In the spring, around April, when the snow melts, they begin to prepare a plot of land. To do this, dig up the soil on a bayonet shovel, for each square meter consumes 2 buckets of sand, 1 humus and a shovel with wood ash. All ingredients are mixed well again. Landing is carried out in prepared mounds.

The school should always be loose and free of weeds. To do this, after each watering or rain, fluff the ground around each cutting. In order for the seedlings to develop well and take root, they need feeding with organic fertilizers, which are applied along with water. Before the fall, minting is carried out. This will allow the vine to mature before winter. Saplings are dug out of the school in a permanent place if the seedling has formed at least one woody shoot.

Growing grapes at home from cuttings in spring

Grow grapes in the spring from cuttings it is easier, but due to climatic conditions, not everyone can do it. You need to breed following a specific technique:

Planting grapes with green cuttings

Maybe, many will be interested in this particular method, which was developed by Yu.D. Lykov. His method is used by many gardeners. The cultivation of grapes takes place over one summer period. According to the author, the best period July is considered. Cuttings are taken from shoots or stepchildren with 3-4 buds. The bottom is cut 3-4 cm below the knot, and the top is just above the kidney. The cuts are placed in a container with rainwater.

In this case, you will need a 5 liter bottle for rooting. The top is cut and filled with earth, and a hole is made at the bottom for drainage. Recommended soil: 50% compost and 50% regular soil. Lykov for his method uses the soil dug up by moles. After the earth is laid, it is compacted by shaking and tapping the bottle. For better shaking, also pour rainwater. In cuttings with 3 buds, the lower leaf is removed, and the 2 upper leaves are cut to reduce the surface evaporation area. In a two-eyed cutting only the top leaf is left. The bottle can be set on 4 cuts of 5-6 cm.

Wooden slats are placed in the bottle to make a frame. A plastic bag is put on top and fastened tightly. The finished greenhouse is placed on the sunny side. The first 12 days, the cuttings do not need to be touched, because they have been created inside natural moisture at a high level. Further, the seedlings are aired and watered every week. It takes an average of one month or one and a half to rooting. In early August, cuttings sent to open ground. This method promises full ripening of the seedling by October.

Conclusion

Grapes are a very tasty berry that can be grown and propagated vegetatively using cuttings. If you follow all the recommendations and instructions, you can get the desired result. Such planting and reproduction promises a healthy plant with a high yield as a result. It's no secret that when buying seedlings, you can get a variety that is unsuitable for the required area. Growing by this method will allow you to avoid trouble and breed exactly the variety you need.

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