Plasterboard ceiling step by step. How to make plasterboard ceilings with your own hands - installation instructions

28 September, 2016
Specialization: facade decoration, interior decoration, construction of summer cottages, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. He also has experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Plasterboard installation is the easiest and fastest way to roughly finish the ceiling, which allows you to give it any shape, change the height, etc. Of course, this work contains its own nuances, however, despite this, every home craftsman can cope with it. The only thing is that you first need to familiarize yourself with the theory, which we will do below - then I will try to tell you in as much detail as possible how to make a drywall ceiling on your own.

Plasterboard installation

Plasterboard ceiling cladding is carried out in several stages:

Stage 1: preparation of tools and materials

So, before you start work, you need to prepare the following tools and materials for installing drywall:

Inventory	Purpose and quantity
Drywall itself	To purchase the required amount of drywall, you should calculate the squaring of the ceiling, and then add a small margin, for example, one sheet;
Frame elements	This includes the following materials: ceiling profile (PP); guides (PN); straight suspension; connecting cross (crab); dowel-nails; self-tapping screws.
Finishing materials	At the finishing stage, the following materials will be needed: starting putty; finishing putty; self-adhesive reinforcing tape; primer.
Instruments	As for the tools, you will need; building or water level; painting cord; screwdriver; scissors for metal; a set of spatulas; a grater for grinding; fine grain sandpaper; paint roller with pallet; long rule with level.

When all the materials are prepared, you can start applying the markings.

Stage 2: applying the markings

Before making a plasterboard ceiling, it is imperative to complete the markings. It depends on how smooth the surface of the ceiling is. Therefore, it is necessary to approach this stage very responsibly.

First of all, we will consider how to markup for a flat ceiling, which is mounted if the purpose of the work is to level the surface. The work is performed in the following sequence:

if you are not faced with the task of reducing the height of the ceiling, then it is necessary to place the structure as close to the base as possible. To do this, you need to find the lowest point on the ceiling and project it onto the wall;
then you need to retreat 3 cm from the point on the wall - this is the thickness of the profile and suspension. The new point must be transferred to all corners of the room. To do this, you can use the water level;

further between the points in the corners of the room, you need to beat off the lines. To do this, you need a painting cord, which is fixed at points and pulled parallel to the future line. After that, the cord must be released like a bowstring, as a result of which it will hit the wall and leave a trace in the form of a straight line between two points;
The resulting lines are the markings for the location of the ceiling profile guides. Place a level on the lines to make sure the lines are correct.;
now you need to apply the markings on the ceiling itself, but before you do this, you need to decide on the direction of the arrangement of the sheets. Along it, lines should be drawn in increments of 40 cm. To do this, first mark the points on each of the walls, then beat off the lines between them using a paint cord according to the scheme described above;
then on each line it is necessary to mark the points of the location of the suspensions with a step of 50 cm;
through the points obtained, perpendicular lines should be drawn. As a result, rectangles should appear on the ceiling. Perpendicular lines are necessary so that the suspensions are located exactly and strictly perpendicular to the ceiling profiles.

This completes the striping process. It should be noted that when installing a multi-level ceiling, the process of performing this operation is somewhat complicated. After completing all the above actions, a second level contour is applied - it can be a semicircle or just a curved line.

In this case, you also need to beat off the line of the second level guides on the wall. I must say that the ceiling profile and suspensions can be located on the ceiling according to the markings of the first level.

In some cases, the second level frame is attached to the first level frame. Another common installation option is to attach the rails to the ceiling, which allows you to use a profile instead of hangers for fixing the frame and thereby obtain a more rigid structure.

All these nuances of the frame should be displayed on the ceiling so that in the future there will be no difficulties in the process of its installation.

Stage 3: assembling the frame

Now let's look at how to do it right. If the design is single-level, then the work is carried out in the following sequence:

installation of the frame should begin with the installation of guides on the walls. Let me remind you that they should be located perpendicular to the direction of the drywall sheet and, accordingly, to the ceiling profile.
You can screw the guides using self-tapping screws or dowel-nails, depending on the type of walls. In the process of installing the guides, use the building level to avoid mistakes.;

now you need to fix the suspensions on the ceiling according to the markings. You can also use self-tapping screws for this;
after mounting the suspensions, you need to install the profiles, having previously cut them according to the markings. For this, the profiles should be inserted into the guides and fixed in the hangers.
At first glance, this work does not represent anything difficult, however, it should be borne in mind that the profile bends under its own weight, therefore, before fixing it in the suspension, it must be leveled. Otherwise, the plasterboard ceiling will turn out to be convex and unattractive.

To level the ceiling, you can use a long rule with a built-in level. Another option is to install the profiles that are extreme from the walls, and then pull the threads between them, which will serve as beacons for installing the remaining profiles;

now all that remains is to mount the jumpers. To do this, you need to install crabs (crosses) with a step of about 50 cm, and fix the profile trim between them. All these parts are attached with self-tapping screws.

Often, home craftsmen are interested in how to fasten one profiles and at the same time align them. In this case, you will have to use supports and adjust their height.

This completes the installation process. If you need to make a curved ceiling, first of all, you need to make its outline. To do this, you need to bend the profile by making cuts on its sides. Otherwise, the installation principle is the same as when installing a flat frame.

Stage 4: installation of drywall

The next step is to install drywall to the ceiling. Since drywall is large and heavy, it is best to do this job with one or even two assistants.

Many people are interested in how to raise the drywall to the ceiling by yourself if there is no assistant? Solving this "puzzle" is quite simple with the help of mops. The length of the handle of such a mop should be higher than the height of the ceiling.

In order for the mop to be supported on the wall with an indent, you should attach two brackets 35-40 cm long to it.As a result, you can support the brackets on the wall, while the mop will be at a distance of about 35 cm from the wall. The second mop can be made without brackets ...

Before hemming drywall, you should support the mop on the wall over the area you plan to sheathe. The distance between the mop and the frame should be about 10 cm;
then drywall with one edge should be put on the mop;
then you need to raise the second edge of the sheet, and support it with a second mop, pressing it against the frame;
now you need to press down the edge of the drywall to the frame, which rested on the first mop;
then you need to fix the drywall on the frame with self-tapping screws. The step between the latter should be about 17 cm;
according to this principle, the entire ceiling is sheathed.

Home craftsmen are often interested in how many layers of drywall do you need on the ceiling? Subject to the technology of mounting the frame and the drywall itself, one layer is quite enough.

I must say that there are other ways how to sheathe the frame yourself with drywall. In particular, there are special lifting jacks. However, the method described above is the simplest.

If you need to sheathe a vertical curved plane, for example, in a multi-level ceiling, you should make cuts on the back of the sheet. After that, it will not be difficult to bend the material under the required radius.

Stage 5: rough finish

We figured out how to assemble the frame and hem drywall. Finally, consider how the finishing is done.

This procedure begins with priming:

the primer should be thoroughly shaken before use and poured into a roller tray;
then the roller must be dipped into the ground, slightly squeezed out on a special pallet area, and then treated with the surface of the ceiling. Make sure that the soil lays down in an even thin layer;
after the drywall surface on the ceiling dries out, you need to reapply the primer.

Further work technology is as follows:

finishing work begins with chamfering the edges of the drywall sheets. The chamfer width should be about 5 mm. You can cut it off using the assembly tool.
If the edge of the sheet is initially rounded, the edge may not be removed;
then a self-adhesive mesh should be glued to the joints of the sheets;
then it is necessary to cover up the caps of the screws and the joints of the sheets with a starting putty;
then plasterboard ceilings are putty with starting putty. The latter needs to be typed on a wide spatula, then press the tool with a blade to the ceiling and tilt at an acute angle. To apply the putty, you need to make smooth, but at the same time fairly fast movements along the plane of the ceiling;
In order to properly finish the surface, the hardened putty should be rubbed with a grater with a mesh, removing all serious flaws on the surface;

after that, you need to wipe the surface with a damp cloth and then prime;
after that you need to apply a finishing layer of primer. The principle of operation remains the same as with the starting putty, the only thing is that the composition is applied in a thinner layer. Moreover, you should try to apply the coating as accurately as possible;
the work is now almost complete. Finally, consider how to do the grinding yourself, on which the final result depends. For this you need a fine skin.

The task of this operation is to mash the slightest imperfections on the surface of the ceiling. Therefore, sanding is necessary in bright light.

Many people are wondering - how to make a floating ceiling? For these purposes, LEDs are used that illuminate the contours of the ceiling. The latter, as a rule, are laid in the ceiling plinths.

Here, perhaps, is all the information on how to properly make a plasterboard ceiling.

Output

As we found out, sheathing the ceiling with plasterboard is generally not difficult. However, in order for the structure to turn out smooth and rigid, it is necessary to adhere to the technology that we have seen above.

If you have any questions regarding the installation of drywall on the ceiling, ask them in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

September 28, 2016

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Plasterboard ceilings are a simple and economical way to transform an apartment. The reliability of the design has been proven by many years of experience. The same experience shows that these ceilings have a lot of advantages. It is also of great importance that it is simple to make plasterboard ceilings, and a non-professional can cope with the task. The aesthetic possibilities here are simply endless. You can create a unique design, boldly using different lighting options, and curved shapes.

Preparations should begin with the creation of a project. Check how many levels the ceiling will have. Depends on . In advance, it is necessary to think over the layout of lighting devices and additional lighting. It may be necessary to chase the ceiling and walls to lay the wiring. Only after that you can draw up a project, carry out calculations and go to the store for materials.

Instruments

It won't work without reliable tools. It is on them that the time of work depends. Before purchasing materials, check if you have all the tools. Better to make a list right away and buy everything in advance.

Of the little things you will need: marker, construction pencil, indicator screwdriver, drills of different diameters, jigsaw files, bits, masking tape, duct tape and paint rollers.

Materials (edit)

Drywall can have a thickness of 6.5 to 12.5 mm. For the ceiling, it is better to buy sheets with a thickness of 9, 5 mm. But if there is in the project, 6.5 mm drywall will be the best for them. If you purchase thicker sheets, you need to strengthen the frame. Your ceiling will be heavy, which means it needs more profiles and fixings.

Important.
Plasterboard is suitable for residential premises. with GKL marking.
For the kitchen or bathroom you need moisture resistant material.

Profiles are needed of two types:

Guide (PN) with dimensions of 27 x 27 mm. This profile is attached around the perimeter of the room.
Ceiling (PP) with dimensions of 56 x 27 or 60 x 27 mm. Plasterboard sheets are attached directly to this profile.

Profiles used for the ceiling:
ceiling CD and UD runner

U-shaped hangers are used to fasten the ceiling profiles to the rough ceiling. You can use other suspensions, but U-shaped ones are the most reliable. For the ceiling, it is better to take plastic dowels and screws. If the ceiling is concrete, dowels are required for heavy metal structures. Self-tapping screws are used to fasten drywall. A connector (crab) is used at the joints of the profiles.

In the final stages, a joint filler and paint are required.

Ceiling installation stages

Drywall work involves a lot of dust. If you do not intend to change the wallpaper, you need to cover it with a film. It is better to take out the furniture, in extreme cases, wrap it tightly with foil. The rough ceiling must be plastered and primed. Pieces of plaster falling onto the suspended ceiling can damage it. All wiring has already been carried out to the areas where the lighting fixtures are installed.

1. Measurements and marking

The height of the ceiling depends on the type of lighting fixture. If a chandelier is intended, 5 cm is enough. For about 10 cm of free space is needed. If you plan to hide communications behind the ceiling, the distance can be up to 40 cm.

A perfectly flat horizontal line must be applied to the walls under the ceiling. Along this line, you will attach the guide profile. A laser level is needed to determine this line. You can use a spirit level or a rule. The line must be closed exactly at the point from which it began. The slightest displacement is unacceptable. In the corners, the level must be placed both on the surface of the walls and in the corners of the spacer. All lines are drawn with a construction pencil.

Horizontal markings around the perimeter - controlled using a level, then the points of attachment of the guides are marked

After completing the horizontal marking, proceed to the ceiling. The attachment points of the suspensions are marked and the lines are drawn along which the ceiling profile will be mounted. As a result, you should have a grid with squares, the side of which is 60 cm. You need to start from the center of the room. Most likely, squares will not work near the walls. Your task is to make the cell sizes symmetrical around each wall.

2. Installation of the frame

The standard length of the guide profile is 3 m. For fixing one element, you need to use at least 4 dowels-nails. It is desirable to glue the profile with a sealing tape at the point of contact with the wall. The profile should run clearly along the drawn markings, the elements should fit snugly together. Installation is best done in the classical way, in which the dowel is first screwed in, and then a screw is installed into it.

The next step is to attach the U-shaped hangers to the rough ceiling with dowel-nails. The interval between them along one line should be 40-70 cm. At the joints of the profiles, suspensions are installed on both sides. The ends of the suspension should be bent as much as possible. In the process of fastening, they should not bend, otherwise the profile cannot be fixed evenly.

The ceiling profile should be 1 cm shorter than the width of the ceiling. If your room is less than 3m wide (standard profile length), cut off the excess with metal scissors. If the room is wider, you will have to connect two profiles. To do this, you need to buy special fasteners.

Important! If you are building up a ceiling profile, the joints on two adjacent ones should not be on the same line. Additionally, the joints are fixed with hangers.

Sequence of installation of ceiling profiles:

You need to start from the corners of the room. The teammate takes the rule and sets it diagonally in the corner. The other end of the rule will support the profile so that it does not sag. This will keep your partner keeping the profile aligned with the guides. In the meantime, you insert the profile into the guides, screw it to the hangers for 4 self-tapping screws and to the guides.
The center is also attached to suspensions. If it is impossible to use the rule as in the corner, apply it exactly from the starting profile, be sure to check the line with a level. The excess length of the suspensions is bent upwards.
The second profile is attached in the same way. After that, everything should be repeated near the opposite wall.
The central profiles are attached in the same way, aligning with those already installed.

Further, jumpers are installed perpendicular to the main profiles. The distance between them should be 60 cm, this is why you broke the ceiling into squares. The profile is cut into sections with the required length. At the joints, crabs are installed, attached to 4 self-tapping screws, the antennae are bent. The jumpers are attached to the crab antenna with self-tapping screws. It is not necessary to attach the lintels to the profile from the bottom, they will be fixed during the installation of drywall.

Photo: insulation of a suspended ceiling with mineral wool

The free space between the sub-ceiling and the false ceiling can be filled with heat and sound insulation. The most commonly used mineral wool. It is cut into rectangles of a larger size than the cells in the frame, and the space is filled, additionally fixing it with suspensions.

3. Installation of drywall

Plasterboard sheets should lie in the room for several days, always in a horizontal position. Sheets are cut to the required size with a construction knife. Before starting the installation, the chamfer must be cut at the edges with a knife at an angle so that the putty completely fills the gap. Burrs that form during cutting are removed with a plane. Holes for fixtures are made with crowns after careful measurements.

Sheets need to start fastening from the corner. Self-tapping screws on adjacent sheets should be screwed in at different levels. The step between the self-tapping screws is 20 cm. The hat must be completely recessed; it is advisable to check each self-tapping screw by touch.
The sheet is attached to both the rail and the ceiling profiles.
It is impossible to dock drywall close to the perimeter. Leave a 2 mm gap.
Between themselves, the sheets must be placed apart, shifting at least one cell.

Photo: fastening a drywall sheet with a screwdriver

One of the most difficult work in home renovation, according to both masters and amateurs, is to bring the ceiling to its proper form. Unevenness of slabs, inconsistency of angles, different levels of ceiling, etc. It is sometimes very difficult to eliminate all these defects. And not only difficult, but also expensive, for example, using stretch ceiling technology.

In this article, we will look at the technology of plasterboard suspended ceilings. Its advantages are obvious: low cost of a plasterboard suspended ceiling, ease of installation and a relatively small amount of time spent on its arrangement. At the same time, the technology is quite simple, and you can make the installation yourself. Let's see how?

Tools and materials

Having made the decision to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, namely: stock up on the necessary tools and purchase all the necessary building materials. Let's look at it in order.

To install a plasterboard suspended ceiling, we need the following tool:

a water level, we need it to accurately mark the installation site of the guide profile (due to its low cost, our choice fell on it, if the financial capabilities allow us to acquire a household laser level as well, its price is on average $ 50);
a two-meter level to determine the evenness of the installation of drywall sheets;
perforator - for drilling holes for profile fixing dowels;
drill or screwdriver - fastening the profile and gypsum board;
a five-meter tape measure, a utility knife with a set of blades, a pencil for marking;
"Bulgarian" with a circle for metal or a hand saw, good scissors for metal.

Having assembled the necessary tool, let's consider what building materials we need to assemble a plasterboard suspended ceiling structure:

Profile.It is of two types: a guide (fixed along the perimeter of the square, its function is reflected in the name itself) and ceiling (C-shaped). The firm and the form do not really matter, it is only necessary that both profiles are from the same manufacturer. How much is needed? The guide profile is calculated around the perimeter of the room. For example, the total area is 20 m2, the length of the walls is 5 and 4 meters, respectively. The length of the profile is 3 and 4 m, respectively, a three-meter one, we need 7 pieces + 1 stock, just in case if you spoil it. For this example, you can take a 4 meter one, we need 5 pieces of it, i.e. the perimeter is divided by the length of the profile. If the ceiling is two-level or will have an intricate design, then add the length of the additional structure to the above figures. The calculation of the C - shaped profile is carried out as follows, since the drywall sheet has a width of 1250 mm, ideally, it is fastened with a step of 600 mm. Thus, for our example, it is better to take a 4 meter high (there will be less waste), we divide the five meter wall by 60 cm and we get 8 ceiling profiles. We have given the principle of calculation, for each room and complex structure of the suspended ceiling it is identical, it is only important to add an additional length of the structure.

Drywall. There are three types: regular, moisture resistant and fireproof. In an ordinary apartment, if it is not a bathroom, an ordinary sheet will do, it makes no sense to overpay. For the installation of the ceiling, there is also no need to take drywall higher than 8 - 10 mm thickness. The weight of the structure will increase, but there is no practical benefit for the ceiling. Yes, and during installation, this increases the complexity of the work, since the weight of the sheets increases. The calculation of the amount of drywall can be made according to the following formula: we divide the ceiling area by the area of one gypsum board and we get the amount we need. The area of a standard sheet is, if rounded, 3m2. If we divide the area of the room from our example by 3, then we get 6.6 sheets, i.e. 7. We recommend that you take a small stock just in case, one sheet of stock will be enough.

Fastening. We need a straight suspension, it is not expensive, so you can not calculate the exact number of pieces, for an area of 20 m2 with a simple one-level design, we will need about 40-50 pieces. thick, you will need more suspension. Depending on the design, you will have to calculate the number yourself, taking into account the distance between them in 600 - 700 mm. If your design does not provide for a large number of ceiling profile connections - you can do without "crabs", such connections can be mounted using direct suspensions. If this idea is not to your liking, you can purchase longitudinal connectors in an amount equal to the intended profile connections. You will need dowels for attaching the guide profile and suspension, usually 8x10 dowels are enough. You will also need a pack of self-tapping screws to connect the profile. In addition, stock up on self-tapping screws 25 mm long for attaching drywall sheets to the profile.

When everything is assembled, you can proceed with the installation of the frame.

Frame installation

We use a water level to mark the installation site of the guide profile. Having achieved the same level of water in containers on opposite walls, we apply marks. How much to retreat from the ceiling is up to you, but for the convenience of installing the entire structure, especially when laying thermal insulation wool and / or spotlights, retreat at least 10 cm.After making the markings on all four walls, we proceed to drilling the holes for the dowels using a puncher. We fix the guide profile to the wall with an interval of 30 - 40 cm, in the corners at a distance of 10 - 15 cm.

After installing the guide profile along the perimeter, using a tape measure, we make marks on the wall at intervals of 60 cm. Thus, we mark the installation locations of the ceiling profile. For a simple one-level design, we do not need the installation of C-shaped profiles in two directions, i.e. markup is carried out on two opposite walls.

After that, we proceed to fastening the suspension to the surface of the ceiling. For convenience, focus on the distance between them in 60 - 70 cm, for example, it will be easier to lay insulation wool. But if there is a difference of a couple of centimeters, the tragedy will not happen.

After installing all direct hangers, we begin to install the ceiling profile itself.

In our example, this is very simple, since the length of the wall is 4m and the length of the profile is 4m, we do not have to join it. If this is not suitable for your version, then at the joints of the profile, install two additional suspensions to the ceiling, and using the suspension itself or the longitudinal connector, as you like, we twist together with self-tapping screws. Using a drill or screwdriver, we connect all the joints of the ceiling profile with the guide, as well as suspensions with a C-shaped profile.

One important nuance when twisting the suspension with ceiling profiles: using a 2 meter level, make sure that the profile is fixed evenly, without deflections and sagging. If you do not follow this, then after installing the gypsum board, you can find that the newly arranged surface of the ceiling has a wavy nature.

After connecting all the metal elements of the frame, make sure with the help of a level that the surface of the profile is even, place the level in different directions along the ceiling profile. If there are deviations - correct.

So, the frame of the plasterboard suspended ceiling is ready, then we carry out the wiring to the places of the lamp / s and, if desired, lay the thermal insulation wool. After that, our structure is ready to accept drywall sheets.

Plasterboard sheathing and putty

We proceed to the installation of drywall sheets. There is nothing complicated in the fastening itself, we raise the sheet to the profile and fasten it with self-tapping screws. An interval of 10 - 15 cm between the screws will be sufficient. We "sew up" along the perimeter and in the center, and our center is a notch on the wall. When joining drywall sheets, it is necessary to monitor the ends at the joints. The sheets themselves, as you can see, have rounded ends, this is done so that there are no cracks in the putty at the joints, there the layer will be thicker. So, when joining whole sheets or pieces, it is also necessary to create a small depression along the edges with a knife, where it is not.

You should also pay attention to the screw heads, they should be "recessed" in the gypsum board by about 1 mm. If protruding - gently squeeze, this will greatly facilitate the putty of the ceiling at the end of the work.

In the places where lamps or any other communications are installed, we cut out all the necessary holes using a knife. For these works, you can also purchase a special attachment for a hammer drill or drill, it's as you like.

If the drywall sheets are fitted tightly to one another, the joints are "cut" and all the necessary holes are cut, you can proceed to puttying the surface. To do this, in addition to gypsum plaster, you will need a special adhesive mesh for processing gypsum plasterboard joints. If everything is available, proceed to the putty. And we start with the joints. Let them dry out a little and you can putty the entire surface of the ceiling with finishing plaster.

Let it dry for a day or two, take sandpaper 100/120, a lamp for illumination from the side of irregularities and make a flat and smooth surface. After that, your ceiling is ready for any kind of decoration.

We examined the installation of a simple single-level type of suspended plasterboard ceiling. And if you have not done the installation of such a ceiling with your own hands, we strongly recommend starting with a simple one. When the experience of such work comes and you know the nuances of such a design, then you can already assemble the next ceiling and a two-level one. And not only that, you will be able to model and think over the design yourself, since you will understand the main part of the device of a suspended plasterboard ceiling.

Below are drawings of plasterboard suspended ceilings, possible options

Possible decoration methods

It is actually very difficult to describe how to decorate. The first is that there are no comrades in taste and color, as they say. And secondly, the modern construction industry produces such a huge amount of all kinds of decorative, and not only, materials that the volume of the article simply will not allow considering them. Everything here will depend on your tastes, desires and your own financial capabilities. Someone likes surface decoration using plaster molding, someone just needs to use foam baguettes in the decor. Someone will apply a picture to the ceiling, and someone will simply glue the wallpaper and replace the chandelier.

In fact, do not pay attention to all sorts of "fashion" trends and other nonsense. You live in this room, so think about what kind of ceiling will bring you comfort and joy. After you understand what you want and you can afford it, go to the nearest hypermarket of building materials and take what will make your idea come true, do it for yourself.

There is nothing very complicated in the technology of plasterboard suspended ceilings, it is only important to remember the popular wisdom: "Measure seven times and cut once." And you will succeed, believe me.

Installation of a plasterboard suspended ceiling video

If you want your room to have a beautiful and perfectly flat ceiling, try making it yourself. Show your imagination!

For the implementation of the most complex and unusual ideas, drywall is perfect.

It can be used to assemble various types of ceiling coverings, among which the following designs are especially popular:

double (an excellent solution for obtaining sound insulation properties);
bunk (ideal for spacious rooms with high walls);
curly (allows you to give the interior dynamics, is used for additional decoration of rooms);
tension (alternative for those who do not want to work with joints).

Drywall belongs to the category of versatile building materials, widely used for finishing horizontal, vertical and inclined surfaces.

The construction of gypsum plasterboard (GKL) includes two layers of thick cardboard, between which there is a core. The main ingredient of the internal filler is a hardened gypsum solution, which may contain various modification additives.

Gypsum plasterboard, unlike other similar building materials, has moisture resistant qualities, relatively low weight and a variety of sizes, making it ideal for rough and finishing ceilings.

With the help of gypsum board, you can design both a classic single-level ceiling with lighting, and install a two-level ceiling with hidden light elements.

Advantages and disadvantages of drywall

Correct work with drywall is carried out in strict accordance with the prescribed technical standards, requirements and safety rules.

Specialists in the field of major repairs and construction highlight the following positive qualities of the material:

Versatility of application. Suitable for finishing heated and unheated premises for various purposes (living rooms, bathrooms, household and garage outbuildings, loggias)
Soundproofing effect, combined with good air exchange and minimal heat loss - gypsum ceilings are popular in private houses and country cottages with roofs made of corrugated board or metal tiles.
Ease of embedding spot and basic lighting fixtures. Electric wires, telephone lines, ventilation systems and other engineering communications can be discreetly laid over the gypsum board plates without harming the aesthetic component of the issue.

The complexity of the installation work includes the need for high-quality processing of butt joints. Finishing the ceiling with plasterboard requires the active participation of at least two people. When assembling a rack box for the ceiling, errors in calculations are unacceptable, even small flaws can lead to cracks and deformation of cardboard sheets.

Required materials for the assembly of a plasterboard ceiling structure

To create a suspended ceiling from gypsum board you will need:

drywall sheets (their type is selected taking into account the individual technical specifications and the format of the room);
metal profile (with its help, a skeleton skeleton is created for a future structure);
ceiling wedge anchor (allows you to quickly and reliably attach a metal profile to the ceiling);
construction knife with replaceable blades (for cutting gypsum board into the necessary fragments);
cordless screwdriver and self-tapping screws with a press washer (for attaching drywall to the profile);
perforator (for creating holes for anchor bolts);
expansion dowels;
special tape for sealing gypsum board;
construction narrow spatula;
putty for subsequent finishing.

Preliminary calculations, marking and surface preparation

Before you start sheathing the ceiling, you need to determine the lowest area of the rough ceiling in the room. From it it is necessary to note the distance in height at which it is planned to mount the future structure. This is required in order for the plasterboard ceiling frame to be installed correctly.

According to the accepted standards, the gap between the ceiling base and the suspended plasterboard ceiling should be at least 5 cm.In cases where the interceiling space acts as a kind of box for masking utility networks and large-sized lighting elements, the level of the decorative ceiling must be lowered at least one more 15-20 cm.

From the obtained point, it is necessary to draw an even continuous line, thus capturing the entire perimeter of the room space. The easiest way to do this is using a building level (for a large area, a laser is suitable, for small rooms a bubble is enough).

The next step is the application of construction markings in the places where the installation of the profile skeleton is planned. The distance between the longitudinal profiles should be a multiple of the width of the plasterboard sheet. The standard width of the material is 120 cm, so the installation of metal structures with a distance of 40 cm is considered an ideal option: two guides are fixed at the edges, one in the middle. Places of fastening of suspensions should also be noted in advance. Their interval step should be between 40 and 50 cm.

An example of markup is shown in the photo.

At the final stage of the preparatory work, it is required to mark each plasterboard sheet in accordance with the approved installation plan. For more details on markup, see the video at the bottom of this page.

Creation of a reliable metal frame for a plasterboard ceiling

Ceiling production begins with the installation of the supporting base. The guide to creating a metal frame includes 5 main points.

On the prepared line, holes are drilled at the previously indicated points. A UD profile is brought to the rough ceiling, which is fixed with dowels-nails.

Installation of suspensions is in progress. Their main purpose is to fasten the main longitudinal metal profiles. They are not required for cross members. Suspensions are fastened with ordinary dowel-nails. If voids are found, it is rational to use a ceiling wedge anchor.

The next step is to install a CD type profile. Before hanging them, it is necessary to determine a flat horizontal plane that runs over the entire area of work. To do this, just pull the nylon thread.

The longitudinal CD-profile is initially fixed between the opposite UD-parts (specifically, it is inserted into the grooves specially designed for this purpose). Then it is sequentially mounted in prepared suspensions. The free ends of the suspensions are bent vertically downward, completely wrap around the profile and are fixed with small universal screws.

The final stage of creating the frame involves the installation of transverse profiles, which are recommended to be located at a distance of half a meter from each other.

The finished frame must be gently pulled down on each side. This technology allows you to align all suspensions along the same length and helps to identify possible irregularities in the horizontal plane of the frame.

Basic principles of working with drywall

Before starting the installation of a plasterboard suspended ceiling, you need to think over and organize the overhead space. All electrical wires and cables are placed in flexible corrugated tubes and fixed with metal brackets to the rough finish. On the gypsum board, the zones for the location of the lamps are indicated, the corresponding holes are cut along the contour of the outlined figure.

Step-by-step instructions on how to fix drywall are as follows:

Cut the sheets for easy fastening.
Seal the metal profile with tape to provide additional shock absorption and sound insulation.
Attach the sheets along the edges to the frame. The distance from the edge to the fastening point should be about 2 cm. The step between the screws should be 10-15 cm.
According to the installation rules, panels are first attached, adjacent to the corner sections of the walls. Next, you need to fix the remaining sheets around the entire perimeter of the room. The central elements of the ceiling structure are attached last.

After the completion of the installation work, the finished suspended ceiling must "settle" within 48 hours. Then you can start finishing. To process the joints, a primer is used, after which the assembly seams must be putty (for this purpose, a gypsum mixture of the Knauf trademark is perfect).

To give additional rigidity and strength to the finish, it is recommended to use a reinforcing mesh.

To do this, it is necessary to apply 60% of the putty, drown the mesh with the mixture that has not yet hardened, smooth out the irregularities with a spatula, and fill the remaining volume of the docking recess with a second layer of putty. The plasterboard ceiling frame is ready.

How to find a profile under drywall?

We recommend using powerful neodymium magnets in order not to overshoot and to hit the fixing equipment exactly in the metal frame.

With it, you can easily find a rack, guide profile or auxiliary metal lintels under the plasterboard surface. The search for a profile ceiling frame is necessary in order to hang lighting fixtures or other decorative elements of the interior.

In the event of an error in the calculations, the entire structure will sooner or later collapse to the floor, so it is very important to determine the correct point for fasteners. For this you need:

Choose an approximate place for the future attachment.
Place a thin sheet of paper or cloth on the ceiling to prevent the magnet from scratching the surface.
Place a neodymium magnet on the fabric and start slowly driving it along the intended search area.
If a magnetic reaction occurs, mark the spot with a pencil.

We draw your attention to the fact that for the most efficient search for a metal profile, it is better to use a large magnet. It is capable of covering a larger radius at a time, which means that metal detection will not take much time.

Video tutorial on the topic: "How to make a level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands"

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with useful video material that will visually assess the upcoming volume of work, as well as deal with all the nuances of the device of single-level and multi-level ceilings.

To bring to life their most daring projects for decorating the ceiling, designers use drywall. With the technology of installing plasterboard ceilings, it is necessary to create a central flat surface that allows you to work with complex decorative elements. At the same time, the design is particularly robust and reliable.

The simplest false ceiling installation is one or two levels. The technique of creating a plasterboard ceiling of two levels will be discussed a little later. But you can get acquainted with some of the intricacies of installing a single-level plasterboard ceiling in the material "Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen: installation features".

Ceiling mount markings

According to the technology for installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling, the first thing to do is to apply the markings:

So, a perfectly flat horizontal line is applied to the walls, which will become a line of the ceiling level... To do this, use a long building level or water level (spirit level). The most acceptable length of the level is one and a half to two meters, while it should have four strips in the viewing window - two on one side of the air bubble and two on the other side. Subject to these requirements for the tool, the marking accuracy is guaranteed.
At the end of the outlining of the line, its end must converge with its beginning, while its slightest shift is not permissible. When applying markings in the corner of a room using a building level, you should adhere to the rules for working with a hydro level. To do this, when marks are applied to adjacent walls, the level should be placed both on the surface of these walls and in the corners of the spacers.

Technology diagram for the installation of a plasterboard ceiling

After completing the creation of the horizontal level of the ceiling, the next step will be to mark the ceiling with the points of attachment of direct suspensions. As a result, a grid with a mesh size of 600 x 600 mm should appear on the ceiling. Very often, at the edges of the room, the dimensions of the cell do not correspond to the given 600 mm, in which case their dimensions should be reduced and made symmetrical with respect to opposite sides.

Installation of profiles for fixing gypsum board

Installation of the guide profile

The next stage of installation of a plasterboard ceiling provides for sheathing the entire perimeter of the room with guide profiles (PN). The size of such a profile is 2.7 x 2.7 cm.Of course, this process has its own characteristics:

Installation of U-shaped hangers

Installation of U-shaped suspensions is carried out according to the pre-marked markings on the rough ceiling. In this case, the interval should be within 70-100 cm, and the distance from the wall to the suspension on opposite walls should be the same.

Do not use dowel-nails for vertical fastening to fix the suspensions. It is recommended to use plastic dowels and screws. If the sub-ceiling is made of concrete, metal dowels, designed for heavy structures, are the best solution. However, you should be careful, since the frame dowels are also metal, but they are completely unsuitable for this purpose.

At the joints of the guide profiles, U-shaped suspensions should be installed on both sides of the joint.

Fastening elements of the frame of the plasterboard structure to the ceiling

At the end of the process of fixing the U-shaped profiles, the next step is the installation of ceiling profiles (PP). Their parameters are 5.6 x 2.7 cm, sometimes 6 x 2.7 cm are found.

Installation of ceiling profiles

The first thing to do when installing ceiling profiles is to fix the long profiles to the ceiling from wall to wall. Then install short cross-sections between them. In this case, cross connections are made using a special mount.

PP is mounted from the wall and inserted into the guide profiles. Then the horizontal level of the location of the ceiling profiles is designated (for this purpose, a level is used), and then it is fixed with a double-sided connection to the U-shaped suspension. At the same time, metal-to-metal screws (self-tapping screws) are used for such a connection.

To make the job easier, you can use the following tips:

The most rational solution would be to install the longest profiles parallel to the wall with the window. Thus, you can divert attention from small defects at the junction of the drywall sheets, which will be attached in the direction of natural light from the window.

Fastening drywall to the frame

A solid sheet of drywall (GKL) is attached transversely to long guide profiles.

The sheets are connected in the central part of the profile. For high-quality installation of gypsum board on a profile, it is recommended to work with a partner. To attach the sheets to the profile, self-tapping screws are used, while the screw is slightly "sunk" in the drywall sheet, somewhere two to three millimeters. The distance between the screws should be approximately 250-300 mm, and from the corners of the drywall - 30-40 mm.

In addition, the screws should be fastened no closer than 10-15mm from the edge of the drywall. When screwing in self-tapping screws, you should be extremely careful not to chip the edge of the sheet. However, if such a nuisance nevertheless happened, it is necessary to remove the screw and screw in a new one at a distance of 30-40 mm from the place of the chip.

When attaching drywall sheets to the ceiling, you must remember the following nuances:

When installing drywall sheets, it should be remembered that there is a narrow profile in the corners of the room, and this can complicate the installation process;
For a beautiful aesthetic appearance of a plasterboard ceiling, you should adhere to a simple rule: fewer edges - a more beautiful look;
In the process of screwing in self-tapping screws, you should adhere to the same "drowning" depth at all attachment points. Such accuracy will come in handy later, at the stage of carrying out painting work, it will allow them to be carried out as efficiently as possible;
In order to avoid the occurrence of unpleasant situations, such as a difference in height at the joints of the sheets, the best option would be to use products from one manufacturer (for example, Knauf).

Plasterboard cutting technology and painting work

To carry out the marking of drywall sheets, an aluminum rule is used, which should be thoroughly cleaned of all kinds of contamination. If such a tool is not available, you can use a flat rail.

Marking is made on the sheet, drywall will be cut along it.
Further, an incision is made with a depth of 2-4 mm according to the rule (or rail). To do this, use a sharp construction knife so that the line is even and not interrupted.
After that, a sheet of drywall is placed on the edge of the table and, with the help of a careful but confident movement, breaks. With a properly made cut, the drywall sheet will break evenly.

Drywall Cutting Instructions

There will be cardboard on the back of the sheet, you can cut it off with a construction knife.
To align the edge of the cut, you can use a plane or sandpaper # 4 or # 6.

To paint the plasterboard ceiling (for familiarization with the rules of painting, read: How to paint the ceiling in the kitchen: the choice of paint and the procedure for working), you must use a masking bandage and a painting net, which are used to glue the joints of drywall with the wall and joints.

The process of marking the ceiling for placing spotlights should be done before the last paint application. Doing this will help prevent smudges and help keep the light point labels visible. The final layer of paint is applied in the direction of the strongest stream of light.

Technology: for painting a suspended plasterboard ceiling, the best solution would be to use a roller, this will save paint and allow you to create a uniform coating

The above rules for the technology of creating suspended ceilings from plasterboard will make it possible to carry out high-quality installation on our own. However, this can only be achieved if all instructions and recommendations are strictly followed. Otherwise, you risk getting a curve and an unreliable ceiling at the exit, which will need to be redone.

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