Do lilies tolerate sub-zero temperatures in spring? Protecting plants from frost

Lily is a flower that you cannot pass by without admiration.

She is an example of natural grace, grace

and despite its "ancient" age

(lily was born about 3 thousand years ago),

is a popular and desirable flower in any garden

About 15 years ago, the first lily appeared in my garden. Since I had absolutely no information about the cultivation of lilies, I could not understand why it either blooms or does not bloom, it seems alive, it seems to winter, but it does not always bloom. So gradually, interest in her began to fade. But soon so many different lilies began to appear in stores that interest in them flared up with renewed vigor. I was lucky that at this time I started going to the Floriculture School, which helped me not to make new mistakes. It turned out that I was “nourishing” the tubular lily “Regale”, but she simply did not have enough time to lay the flower bud of renewal for flowering next year. Gradually, I figured it out and realized that the first, in late June - early July, even in spite of the spring frosts, we bloomAsiatic lilies and LA hybrids (they have white bulbs), and since they still have the whole summer ahead, they manage to lay the buds of renewal, and even two years in advance. These lilies are unpretentious, frost-resistant, perhaps the most hardy, they winter well even without shelter - this makes them indispensable for novice florists or for those who have little time to work in the garden with flowers.

Asiatic lily "Patricia Pride"

Asian Terry Lily "Fata Morgana"

Asians should be planted to a depth of 12-15 cm. Usually, the minimum depth is 3 bulb heights, that is, the larger the bulbs, the deeper they are planted. Deeper fit preferred. In this case, the bulbs suffer less from frost in winter, and do not overheat in hot summer. With this planting, a large number of stem roots are formed, growing above the bulb, thanks to which the plant receives additional nutrition.

These roots pull the bulbs into the ground and hold the powerful stem upright.

Before planting, the bulbs are etched in a solution of one of the fungicides or in a pink solution of potassium permanganate. All lilies love the sun, do not tolerate stagnant water, good drainage is needed when planting, the soil must breathe, and it is advisable to add sand under the bottom of the bulb so that water does not stagnate under it and rot does not appear. Early planting creates favorable conditions for root growth and plant survival in a new place. If necessary, Asiatic lilies can be replanted at any time during the growing season. Mulching plantings helps to retain moisture, reduce soil temperature in hot weather. Now there are double varieties of Asian lilies, they also winter well ("Fata Morgana", "Sphinx", "Aphrodite", etc.). The new Tango line with large flowers covered with specks of various colors ("Kentucky", "Oleina", "Cappuccina", "Graffiti", etc.) is beautiful.

One of the most promising today is the group LA hybrids. They have proven themselves excellently due to their good winter hardiness and resistance to fungal diseases. They have absorbed all the best features of Asian lilies and have larger and more beautiful flowers, and some varieties with a delicate, delicate aroma. Planting in autumn - in September, but spring planting (May - June) is not bad either, bloom in July.

LA-hybrid "Samur"

Blooming LA hybrids

Tubular hybrids, bloom 10-15 days later (dark purple bulbs), these are long graceful tubes of flowers with a strong aroma, bloom in July - August, and in the bud of renewal they manage to form only the rudiment of a future flower, therefore, in our conditions for the winter require shelter. Leaves are narrow, whorled.

In the spring, they must be protected from recurrent frosts, since at this time the flower buds in the most delicate and vulnerable part - at the top, can be severely damaged. For the rest of the lilies, spring frosts are not so terrible. Nevertheless, with strong return frosts, it is better to cover the plantings with lutrasil, cans or plastic bottles.

Failures in growing tubular lilies can be caused not only by reduced winter hardiness, but also by increased soil acidity, to neutralize which it is recommended to add 50-100 grams of quicklime per 1 m2. Wood ash can also be used for this purpose.

Tubular lily "Golden Slender"

Lily "Prince Promis"

The last to bloom Oriental lilies (Oriental), they are called aristocrats in the world of lilies for the exotic beauty of unusually attractive and fragrant flowers (orange-yellow-brown bulbs). They are more delicate and capricious, in comparison with other lilies, with fragrant, large, corrugated flowers, with velvety papillae on the petals. They come out of the ground late in spring, bloom in August - September. At this time, it is already cool, damp, and autumn frosts begin.

Oriental lily "Muscadet"

Oriental lily "Lombardy"

Therefore, in the fall, it is advisable to cover the planting of oriental lilies with waterproof material in order to protect them from excessive autumn moisture. It must be remembered that in the homeland of these lilies (the islands of Japan, China) there is a long, warm and dry autumn and their growing season is long. In our natural conditions, the bulbs no longer have time to lay future flower buds. If the autumn is long and dry, then the weak buds of the bulbs can lay, but next year they will bloom even later, since the buds will not be full. And they will have no time to lay the next bud, so gradually the bulbs stop blooming in the open field (as was the case with my Regale lily, although it belongs to tubular lilies). Dug out and stored in the basement (at 0º, store with the ground or covered with moist moss), the bulbs continue the process of forming a replacement bud. They need sunny, wind-sheltered areas with well-drained, fertile, slightly acidic soil. Spring frosts are also not tolerated for the same reason as tubular ones. They do not tolerate fresh manure, it is necessary to plant it to a depth of 20-25 cm, in the first half of summer good watering is needed, but without stagnant water. Foliar (spraying on the leaves) feeding "Epin", carried out in early spring on growing young shoots, has proven itself well.

Diseases

As soon as in the spring the lilies come out of the ground and the growing stems are clearly visible, it is necessary to treat them from gray rot or botrytis, it affects only the aerial part of the plant (whitish spots appear on the leaves in cool, humid weather). Spores of the fungus winter on last year's stems, fallen leaves and weeds, so in the fall it is necessary to remove and burn all this. Plants must be treated with some fungicide containing copper preparations: 1% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid (10 g per 1 liter of water), copper-soap mixture (2 g of copper sulfate and 20 g of green soap), Obigopik, Maxim).

It is necessary to water the plants only in the morning, under the root, so that moisture does not get on the leaves and soaks the ground by 30-40 cm.

Lily leaves damaged by Botrytis

Another "sore" of lilies - fusarium – root bulbous mushroom, settles at the base of the bulbs, on the bottom, it softens, rots, the scales fall off the bulbs, leading them to death. The roots die off, gradually the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither, and the bulbs die. The problem arises in hot weather, with excess moisture, with thickened plantings. After watering, it is necessary to mulch the plantings with grass, old humus, pine bark or some other mulch, you can plant ground cover flowers nearby (anyutka, purslane, etc.). No manure or humus should be added to the pits during planting, since the bulb is open, without integumentary scales (not like tulips, daffodils, etc.) and can get sick very quickly. As a prophylaxis against fungal diseases, before planting, it is necessary to treat the bulbs with Maxim, a solution of potassium permanganate (15-20 minutes), and other fungicides. You can use more environmentally friendly means: infusions and decoctions: chamomile, calendula, tagetis, garlic, tansy, etc. (100 - 200 g of powder per 10 liters of water to insist for 10 hours).

Lily bulb damaged by Fusarium

Of the pests, the greatest harm to lilies is caused by lily beetle or onion rattle... He appeared with us not so long ago, but, unfortunately, we have already managed to get acquainted with this insidious handsome man. This small, bright red mustachioed beetle appears on plantings already in April-May and its dirty yellow larvae greedily eat the leaves of not only lilies, but also other plants of this family. By its gluttony and fertility, it can be compared with the Colorado potato beetle. Control measures: manual collection and treatment with "Inta-Vir"., "Iskra" and other insecticides.

Top dressing

It is necessary to feed lilies 2-3 times per season, using a mixture of mineral fertilizers, dissolved at the rate of 20-30 g per 10 liters of water.

The first feeding is done in early spring, at the very beginning of plant regrowth, with ammonium nitrate (20-30 g / m2, at this time the plants need nitrogen, which promotes powerful plant growth, with its lack, plant growth decreases, the leaves turn pale, shrink.

The second feeding is carried out during the budding period, with full mineral fertilizer or any mixture, with a predominance of phosphorus, for long and abundant flowering. Lack of phosphorus negatively affects flowering - the size of flowers, their number decreases, the intensity of color is lost.

The third feeding is done after the end of flowering, with a predominance of potassium. Do not forget about caring for the plants at this moment, since at this time active root growth and the growth of bulbs begin.

Good results are obtained by feeding with infusion of mullein 1:20, chicken droppings 1:30 and fertilizers "Kemira-Vesna", "Kemira-universal".

With dry top dressing, fertilizers are scattered over the ground before watering or the soil is loosened.

It is necessary at least once a season to carry out foliar feeding on the leaves with microelements (citovit, ferrovit).

As a rule, for 4-5 years, lily nests are divided, since it becomes noticeable that the growth of the plant decreases, flowering weakens.

At the end of the season, the stalks are cut at ground level and burned. Every year, it is recommended to apply well-rotted compost or leaf humus (10 cm layer) to areas with lilies, this will allow a better

it will endure frost, and in spring it will serve as a mulch. Top dressing with wood ash is very useful (2-3 times per season - 0.5 liters of a can per 1 m2).

In addition to the above, there are other types of hybrids, for example:

OT hybrids , obtained from the crossing of Oriental and Tubular hybrids, with large, strong peduncles.

OT-hybrid "Bonbini"

LO hybrids - from the crossing of Longiflorum and Oriental hybrids with funnel-shaped flowers, mainly white and pink.

LO-hybrid "Triumfator"

OA hybrids obtained from crossing Eastern and Asian hybrids. The varieties of this group are recommended for outdoor cultivation.

OA-hybrid "Fest Crown"

In addition, there are species lilies, which are used by breeders to obtain new resistant varieties.

Species lily "Henry"

Club "Florists of Krasnoyarsk"

I am glad to welcome you, dear readers of my blog! I hope you've been looking forward to today's release. Do you want to know what I want to tell you today? I want to talk about the queen of flowers. Do not think that we are talking about roses, I have prepared a material about completely different beauties. Since lilies have long been the main place for me on the site, care and planting for them does not present great difficulties for me. After my detailed instructions, it will also be easy for you to grow these wonderful flowers on your site.

If you have decided that these wonderful flowers must certainly grow on your site, I immediately want to warn you that not all varieties are suitable for growing in our climate. Hybrids grow best of all, for which special conditions are not needed and even an inexperienced beginner can take care of them.

The most popular and affordable flowers:

Gitana (yellow-red);
Lollypon (coffee with scarlet);
Kansas (bright yellow);
Seth Point (pink and white);
Time out (white-yellow);
Bestseller (peach);
Aerobics (pale yellow);
Royal Parade (burgundy red).

Seeing the bulbs of these varieties, you can safely buy - an amazing plant will certainly delight you with its flowering. When buying, carefully examine the bulbs, if they are soft or too dry, I do not advise you to purchase them.

A little trick - if you bought the bulbs in winter or early spring, you cannot plant them yet. How to store them? Put it in a plastic bag, make a few holes beforehand and send it to the refrigerator. Here the planting material will be safely stored until it is planted in open ground.

Correct fit

I want to say right away that lilies do not need frequent transplants. Therefore, choose a place for your beauties carefully, because they will have to grow there for several years. I usually do the planting in September, which is the ideal time for this kind of work.

Each onion should be carefully examined to remove dry scales. I advise you to send it for a few minutes in a weak solution of foundationol. I dig holes under the lilies deep enough, up to 30 cm. In each I put several handfuls of gravel, then I pour a thick layer of fertile soil, lower the onion and carefully fall asleep.

I'm sure you've seen a lot of mature plants with lush flowers being sold. I wonder if you can buy them? Do not even doubt that such flowers will take root perfectly on your site. Before planting, I will advise you to pour more water into the dug hole, into this mud and sprinkle with damp earth.

How to care

Regardless of the variety, the care for the lilies is the same. The most important thing is watering and weeding. Especially carefully moisten the soil during the period of lush flowering. Watering is optional after the stalks are dry.

Dried stalks can be cut off. There is also a useful secret here - you need to do it at an angle. Rainwater will not be able to stagnate and cause rotting plants. Also, you do not need to completely cut the stem, leave it until late autumn. Why? Wind and rain can destroy small stumps, and you will have to work hard to find a lily for shelter for the winter.

A few words about wintering. Although the lily is not afraid of light frosts, it is imperative to cover it. I use sawdust for this, but peat, pine needles, or dry leaves of trees will serve as an excellent shelter.

Once the snow has melted, the warm shelter can be removed. Are you afraid that frost will damage thin sprouts? I found a way out here - I cover the lilies with cut plastic bottles for the night. You can try this quick and convenient way to protect yourself from the cold on other plants, it works great.

Fertilization

From my experience I know what is needed twice a year, namely in spring and autumn. Spring fertilization will significantly accelerate growth and make flowering long and lush. Autumn - will help the bulbs survive the winter without loss and stock up on useful elements.

It is best to feed it with special fertilizers. There are many products on sale specifically for bulb flowers. In order not to destroy the plants, I advise you not to experiment on your favorites, but to purchase ready-made granular fertilizers.

Before dressing, loosen the soil carefully, taking care not to damage the bulbs. Water liberally, especially if the weather is hot. It is necessary to breed top dressing strictly according to the instructions, a large concentration of useful elements is not needed, it can destroy the plant.

I do not advise adding organic lilies, it will have a bad effect on growth and flowering, even if you have the simplest and most unpretentious variety of these flowers. Also, keep in mind that fresh organic fertilizers can cause disease. I almost forgot that for the prevention of diseases, you can treat the plants with a solution of Bordeaux liquid several times a year.

If you are lucky enough to purchase a variety of Asian lilies, then remember that these beauties love when they are transplanted in a year. They will thank you for this with a lush decorative flowering. Add a little lime before planting in the holes, this will also have a beneficial effect on growth and flowering.

Another secret - lily bulbs are afraid of direct sunlight, and flowers need a lot of light. What is the best way to proceed here? Plant low plants near the lilies - flax, poppy, bells or hosts. It will look amazing and sophisticated, and the benefits will be enormous - the bulbs will not overheat or rot.

Sometimes I don't have time for beauties, and I rarely have to water them. Here I found a wise solution - mulched the soil. My experiment showed that the plants liked it, the soil was constantly moistened, without weeds. By the way, the lily is not afraid of weeds, but you still need to weed them out, beautiful flowers look very ugly in unkempt areas.

That's all I wanted to tell you. By the way, I have prepared a photo of amazing flowers especially for you. I think this will certainly make you want to grow such beauty. I will warn you right away - the very first flower can cause you a dangerous illness that will force you to acquire more and more new varieties, as it happened to me. I don't think it will scare you, because there is never too much beauty. Subscribe to new issues of the blog, share with your friends, and there will be even more flowers on your site, because I still have a lot of useful and exciting material. Until next time!

It is difficult to overestimate the beauty, severity of form, purity and brightness of the colors of modern varieties of lilies. A variety of flowers, unpretentiousness, delicate aroma can satisfy the tastes of any flower lover and connoisseur. Spring is approaching and flower lovers who have in their assortment lilies, it's time to plan: what needs to be done so that your favorite flower will delight and delight with its beauty.

The beginning of the lily growing season is considered to be the emergence of the stem from the soil, but in fact, the bulb wakes up earlier, at the end of March. If the snow cover is sufficient and the soil is not deeply frozen, then the processes of accumulation of substances, that is, ripening, at a depth of 35-50 cm continue even in winter when the soil temperature is above 3-4? C. The first to awaken in the spring onion babies and are trying to break through the shelter, so it is necessary to remove the peat or leaf shelter as early and carefully as possible. If you are late, the soil will begin to warm up faster and the lilies will accelerate their growth, and the late spring frosts will freeze the young leaves and stem and the plant will not bloom this year. From the upcoming late spring frosts, lily sprouts can be covered with paper, hay or straw and removed after frost.
Shelter snow-white lily (candidum) must be removed gradually so that the overwintered leaves do not dry out. It is advisable to water this type of lily with heated water in the spring so that the roots quickly become involved in the development process and begin to feed the overwintered leaves. Their roots are close to the soil surface.
When the first shoots appear, it is necessary to carry out very carefully the first loosening land. But if the lily stem at the base of the bulb is broken off, the plant will bloom in two years at best. When the lilies were planted in the fall of the previous year and the planting holes were dug correctly, filled with compost, humus and fertilizers, then such lilies feed in spring and in the summer for two years there is no need.

If lilies grow in one place for 3-4 years, then under these plants, when mouths appear from the ground, it is necessary to add mineral fertilizing at the rate of 1 m2 of potassium salt - 10 grams, ammonium nitrate - 15, superphosphate - 25. Fertilizers are embedded in the soil to a depth of 5 - 8 cm. Second feeding produced in two weeks similarly to the first, only 10 grams of ammonium nitrate is added. Third feeding produced during the budding period. Potassium salt is added per 1 m2 - 10 grams, superphosphate - 25. It is better to dissolve fertilizers in 5-10 liters of hot water, let the water cool down and then pour the solution evenly over 1 m2 of soil under the lilies.
Simultaneously with feeding it is necessary cultivate the land 1% bordeaux liquid or solution suitable fungicide to prevent fungal diseases (botrytis, fusarium).
All lilies do not tolerate excess moisture in the ground, do not like heavy soils and prefer cool, moist and loose soil. Therefore, we need to think about the future. mulching soil, with a light tone mulch, or about planting accompanying annuals, perennials with shallow roots around the lilies. These can be: alyssum, arabis, viola, forget-me-nots, petunias, primroses, daisies, etc.

If the lily bulbs are purchased in the spring, then you should strive to plant them in the soil as early as possible. When this cannot be done, then it is necessary to take measures to prevent them from drying out. Store in plastic bags in wet sawdust or moss in the refrigerator at a plus temperature of no higher than 4? C. You can plant the bulb in a container with soil, so that then, when the soil warms up in the open ground, prepare planting holes and transplant them to the site.
In the spring at the same time landing lily bulbs, you can very carefully, without damaging the roots, break off several outer scales near the bottom, which are then used for further breeding of the desired variety. Powder the breakage points with ash, or even better, treat the onion and scales with foundationol, to protect against fungal diseases. The scales are planted next to the bulb or separately on the beds sprinkled with sand, so that 1/3 of the scales protrude above the soil surface. The planted scales should not dry out, for this they must be covered with moss. You can place the processed flakes in a bag with moistened peat and keep for 4 - 8 weeks until the bulbs form, and then plant them in boxes or soil. Being in the bag, the flakes should not come into contact with the walls of the bag, and the film should not fog up, otherwise the flakes will rot.

Timely weed removal is of great importance when growing lilies. It is necessary to loosen the soil more often for better aeration and protection from drying out. All of these events take place in early spring and early summer. They are suitable for all types of lilies. For different types of lilies, there are more specific methods of caring for plants, but this cannot be described in one note. (Based on materials from Tatiana Borodina, an avid summer resident)

Why growers argue

You can hear different opinions from experienced gardeners: some argue that preparation for the winter of lilies is completely unnecessary, they will winter well and will even bloom more abundantly, others advise covering the plants with fallen leaves for the winter, and still others believe that it should definitely be in the fall dig up the lily bulbs.

The reason for such opposite opinions is that the wintering of lilies directly depends on their variety, as well as on the region in which they are grown. So, in central Russia, you can leave Asian hybrids, hybrids OA, OT, LA, Daurian lily, Pennsylvania and Martagon lily in the soil for the winter. King lilies and Candidium tolerate winter well under cover. But how to preserve the lilies belonging to the Eastern, Tubular, American hybrids, which are not adapted to the harsh Russian winter? These varieties are either planted in the ground in the summer, or even grown in greenhouses, they can overwinter only with careful shelter.

Royal lilies and candidum tolerate winter well under cover

Hybrids LA and Asiatic lilies are usually dug up for the winter for the reason that over the summer their bulbs are heavily overgrown with babies, which by spring grow tightly to the mother bulb, drawing water and nutrients from it. As a result, the lily will grow and bloom worse.

How to preserve lily bulbs that are not suitable for wintering

Lily care video

So, the varieties and varieties of lilies that do not like the Russian winter too much will need to be dug up in the fall. Digging up the bulbs and preparing them for storage is carried out as follows:

cut off dead stems from the lily;
dig the nests;
shaking off the ground, carefully examine the bulbs - dry scales, damaged and rotten roots must be removed immediately;
rinse the lily bulbs under running water;
soak them for half an hour in a solution of karbofos or foundationol (you can use potassium permanganate);
Dry well in the shade after soaking.

If you do not plan, then you need to put the bulbs in winter storage. Another question is how to preserve lily bulbs in winter? There is nothing difficult in this - carefully place them in a container and cover the top with wet moss or burlap. Store the planting material in a dry room before planting in spring, and cut the roots to 5 cm before planting.

If you are not planning an autumn planting of lilies, then you need to place the bulbs for winter storage.

How and how to cover lilies for the winter

In most cases, it is not required to additionally cover the garden lilies, they only need a natural cover with a layer of snow from 10 cm. But how to preserve the lilies in winter, when there is still no snow cover or it is very weak and the frosts are strong? In these cases, it is better to cover the planting of lilies with dry peat, fallen leaves or needles. Needles are preferable, because slugs can crawl under the plant mulch for the winter, which in spring will eat the germinating shoots of plants, destroying the growth point of lilies.

You need to remove the winter shelter on time - as the snow melts. If you remove the shelter too late, due to the lack of light, the lilies will give very thin sprouts that hardly break through the foliage. Harvesting the mulch too early stimulates the strong growth of lilies, as a result of which delicate sprouts may be damaged by frost.

You need to remove the winter shelter on time - as the snow melts

Many experienced florists leave in their flower beds Oriental hybrids of lilies, which do not have good winter hardiness. The success of wintering these species depends entirely on how to prepare lilies for winter, taking into account their characteristics. The fact is that Eastern hybrids are not recommended to be left in a flower garden for the winter, not because they freeze out, but for the reason that they get wet under deep snowdrifts and suffer from excess moisture in the spring. Therefore, if you are wondering how to preserve lilies for the winter, you need to make sure that they winter in fairly dry conditions.

plant Oriental hybrids in elevated flower beds;
pour sand into each hole and sprinkle the planting material on top with sand, and only then with soil;
cover the lilies with peat in the fall;
after the ground freezes, sprinkle the peat with fallen leaves;
cover the planting with foil.

Video about the autumn planting of lilies

A light dry cover of lilies for the winter will provide plants with protection from frost, and the film will not let them get wet in the spring. In spring, the film and foliage will need to be removed early, the peat can be left as fertilizer for the lilies.

Their further development and flowering largely depends on how lilies winter. Therefore, try to provide your pets with comfortable wintering conditions in accordance with the species characteristics, and they will certainly thank you with lush flowering next season!

You planted a new variety of lilies, carefully looked after it all season, and for this she pleased you with magnificent flowers. I would like the lily to bloom abundantly in the next season, but will it be possible to preserve its delicate beauty if the winter frosts reach -30-40 degrees! What does the correct preparation for the winter of lilies include? Do they need to be dug up or covered well enough? You can hear different opinions from experienced gardeners: some argue that preparation for the winter of lilies is completely unnecessary, they will winter well and will even bloom more abundantly, others advise covering the plants with fallen leaves for the winter, and still others believe that it should definitely be in the fall dig up the lily bulbs.

Cut off dead stems from the lily;
dig the nests;
shaking off the ground, carefully examine the bulbs - dry scales, damaged and rotten roots must be removed immediately;
rinse the lily bulbs under running water;
soak them for half an hour in a solution of karbofos or foundationol (you can use potassium permanganate);
Dry well in the shade after soaking.
If you are not planning an autumn planting of lilies, then you need to place the bulbs for winter storage. Another question is how to preserve lily bulbs in winter? There is nothing difficult in this - carefully place them in a container and cover the top with wet moss or burlap. Store the planting material in a dry room before planting in spring, and cut the roots to 5 cm before planting.

How and how to cover lilies for the winter

Many experienced flower growers leave in their flower gardens and Oriental hybrids of lilies, which do not differ in good winter hardiness. The success of wintering these species depends entirely on how to prepare lilies for winter, taking into account their characteristics. The fact is that Eastern hybrids are not recommended to be left in a flower garden for the winter, not because they freeze out, but because they get wet under deep snowdrifts and suffer from excessive moisture in the spring. Therefore, if you are wondering how to preserve lilies for the winter, you need to make sure that they winter in fairly dry conditions.

Plant Oriental hybrids in elevated flower beds;
pour sand into each hole and sprinkle the planting material on top with sand, and only then with soil;
cover the lilies with peat in the fall;
after the ground freezes, sprinkle the peat with fallen leaves;
cover the planting with foil.
A light dry cover of lilies for the winter will provide plants with protection from frost, and the film will not let them get wet in the spring. In spring, the film and foliage will need to be removed early, the peat can be left as fertilizer for the lilies.

Did you like the article? Share it

Print article