How to spray fruit trees against diseases and pests. How to spray fruit trees from diseases and pests How to process trees in the garden in May

May is perhaps the busiest month in the gardener's calendar. One spraying of trees and bushes of black currant, raspberry is worth what. Also, May is the time to sow radishes, beets, and if not sown earlier, then carrots, lettuce, herbs. Here's a garden to-do list for early May, which luckily gives us plenty of days off.

On the site now it is no longer possible to spray the garden with concentrated mineral fertilizer or iron sulfate against lichens. Leave this job for late fall. However, protective spraying against pests that lay larvae and eggs in the expanding buds, and then in the detaching buds, must be done.

Before flowering, you can use karbofos, since it decomposes within a week and will have time to neutralize itself by the time beneficial insects emerge at the time of flowering of the garden. Better yet, sprinkle with citrus peels or onion peels. It is especially important to do this in a timely manner on raspberries.

Strawberries can be treated with Fitoverm against weevils in late April or early May. Gooseberry bushes affected by powdery mildew should be treated with Vectra or Topaz, and apple trees with scab should be treated with Vectra or Skorom. However, "Vectra", "Topaz" and "Skor" are pesticides, so I do not use them, but again I treat my area with a protective one.

Spraying first do on young, already unfolded leaves, and then, after about 2-3 weeks, on young ovaries.

In May, apple trees, cherries and plums should be sprayed with one of the following preparations: "Epin-extra", "Novosil" ("Silk") and "Ecoberin" (if you have not used a spring protective cocktail) to help them survive the frost easier. In addition, if the frosts were long or strong, spray the trees with the preparation "Ovary" ("Bud", "Gippersib") on the buds and flowers, this will prevent the ovaries from falling off.

As soon as pink sprouts appear on the peonies, immediately apply a protective spraying on them against rot with a solution of any preparation containing copper, including a solution of Bordeaux liquid, or use "Fitosporin". It is advisable to do the same spraying on plantings of roses, clematis, phlox, irises, perennial asters. After spraying, cover the clematis with lutrasil until the end of the frost.

Later, when shoots of lilies appear, do the same spraying on them. This is especially true for oriental hybrids. In general, lilies should be sprayed systematically all summer, at least once a month, with Zircon (4 drops per 1 liter of water).

How to spray currants

At the very beginning of May, while the leaves have not yet unfolded, check for a bud on black currant. The mites are found in large, round, swollen buds that are very different from other buds and are clearly visible. The kidneys must be robbed and burned, and not thrown away anywhere.

When the black currant blooms, see if there are flowers on the bushes with narrow, fused petals of a dirty pink color. This is a very dangerous and infectious disease of black currant for other bushes - terry. Such a bush must be immediately uprooted and burned, even if the flowers are only on one branch.

Red currants are often attacked by red-gall aphids, which penetrate the inside of the leaf, eating the flesh. Her feces cause poisoning and red swelling of the leaves. Early spraying of young leaves with Fitoverm, which is absorbed by the leaf and functions in the cell sap for three weeks, protecting the plant from any sucking or gnawing pests, will help.

Any other external spraying is practically useless, because the aphid is inside the leaf. But you can prevent it from entering the sheet by making a soda sprinkling on the underside of the sheet (3 tablespoons of baking soda or soda ash per 10 liters of water). The fact is that aphids penetrate the leaf from the bottom side. She has very delicate skin, which will burn a soda bloom when aphids crawl along the underside of the leaf, and she will die.

In mid-May, not only vegetable flies fly, but also glassware, so at this time spray black currant bushes with infusion of weeds to disorient the pest, or use the biological preparation Fitoverm according to the instructions.

Make sure that the ants do not eat the black currant ovaries at the time of flowering. If the bushes are blooming, but the berries are not being produced, this is their job.

Under the bushes to protect against ants, you can spread a rag soaked in kerosene on the soil, but please do not water the soil with kerosene. Ants and many other insects do not like this smell. They will leave this place.

You can drop on each trunk growing from the ground, 1 drop of the drug "Absolute" against ants, or even better - use the gel "Great Warrior". This is the bait. The ants will run to feast on it, but since the ants treat each other with food, each of them will not only die himself, but also destroy a lot of their relatives, and most importantly, the uterus. By the way, this drug acts in the same way on wasps.

If a large number of ants are scurrying around on the soil under the bushes, remove about 2 cm of the top layer of the soil, most likely there will be an ant egg-laying there. Spray the egg-laying with Muravyin or Phenaxin. Ants and eggs pollinated by the drug die. All of these drugs are low-toxic (the hazard class is the same as that of baking soda or potassium permanganate).

Moniliosis: cherry, plum disease. How to treat?

With a prolonged cold and especially humid spring, an outbreak of a fungal disease of stone fruit crops (cherry, plum, apricot) - moniliosis is possible. Literally overnight, the leaves turn brown, as if they were doused with boiling water or acid, the branches also turn brown. The impression is that the plant has died. But then new leaves appear on the bark on the same branches from dormant buds. It would seem that everything worked out.

But no. These leaves will turn yellow early and fall off in early August. There is no harvest as there is, and those single berries that have nevertheless tied up usually crack and rot right on the branches.

If you observed a similar phenomenon in early spring, then urgently treat the plant with a spring cocktail, then repeat the treatment with Zircon (6 drops per 1 liter of water) immediately after flowering, and then at the end of July.

The next year, start sprinkling this plant on the spread of the leaves with the same spring cocktail, and continue to do this monthly throughout the season. With this intense protection, the tree can usually be saved.

If you do not have these drugs, then you can use drugs containing copper (according to the instructions), or "Zircon". Since this is no longer prevention, but a fight against the disease, instead of 2 drops, 6-7 should be taken per 1 liter of water.

When to sow beets, radishes, peas. When to plant onion sets

At the very beginning of May, if you did not do this at the end of April, sow black onions, spring garlic, parsley, dill, cilantro, watercress, sorrel, carrots, lettuce, turnips into the ground. To prevent seedlings from thickening, before sowing, mix 1 teaspoon of seeds, 1 teaspoon of the dust fraction of AVA fertilizer, half a glass of river sand and sow in prepared furrows as if you were salt food.

Radishes should be sown one by one at once every 3-4 cm. But giant radishes, such as "Duro" or "Alyoshka", must be sown immediately at a distance of 5-7 cm, and then thinned out again, using grown roots for food. Then the remaining ones will reach 8–10 cm in diameter, otherwise, due to lack of space, the roots will be about 4 cm in diameter.

Peas and beans are cold-resistant plants, they can be sown in the ground as early as May 9-10 without pre-soaking. The beans should be poured over very hot, about 70 degrees, water and sowed immediately. But this should be done later, around May 15–20.

Onion sets and onions should be planted after May 15th. Do not forget that the onion bed should be illuminated by the sun all day, in addition, bulbous crops require slightly alkalized soil (pH 6-7).

Zucchini and pumpkins can be planted in the ground (preferably on a warmed with hay or on a compost heap) under a film shelter in mid-May.

Cauliflower can be planted with seedlings in the ground at the end of May, but it should be covered with lutrasil. Firstly, this will protect the plants from night frosts, and secondly, during the cherry blossoms (mid-May) there is a flight of spring vegetable flies, which are very fond of cabbage.

When planting cabbage seedlings, 1 tablespoon of calcium nitrate and an incomplete teaspoon of the powdered fraction of AVA fertilizer should be added to each hole and 1–2 liters of water should be poured. The soil should be mulched with either mowed grass or newspapers folded in several layers.

Do not rush to plant beet seedlings in the ground or sow them in the ground before the end of the frost. If beets fall at an early age not only under frost, but even under a cold snap to 3-4 degrees Celsius, then they will either go to the arrow, or give a small hard-stone root crop.

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PLAN FOR COTTAGE ACTIVITIES FOR MAY

1. It is very useful to spray all the plants at the moment of unfolding the leaves with a mixture of "Zircon", "Epina-extra" and "Cytovita", each with 2 drops per 1 liter of water. This spraying should definitely be done on those plants that were sick the previous summer, and for the rest it is an excellent prevention. "Zircon" helps plants to overcome fungal and bacterial diseases, "Epin-extra" increases the resistance of plants to spring frosts. "Tsitovit" is a good foliar feeding with macro- and microelements, which is quite useful after winter, especially without the sun. The fact is that as soon as the leaf unfolds, literally 20-30 seconds later, the process of photosynthesis begins in the chlorophyll nucleus. But since the ground in the root zone usually has not yet warmed up to 8 ° C at this time, the roots continue to sleep and do not work, that is, they do not supply the macro- and microelements necessary for protein formation to the leaf. This, as a rule, occurs in regions with a cold climate, in particular in the Northwest. And the leaf starts producing carbohydrates. This requires only a quantum of light, carbon dioxide, which is sufficient in the air, and water, which is always present in the plant. Pests fly to this treat from all directions, since both insects and mites prefer carbohydrates over proteins.

The only correct way is to urgently give the plants everything they need to produce protein, that is, to make foliar feeding on the leaves. Instead of "Tsitovit" you can use "Uniflor-growth", "Uniflor-bud", "Florist", the solution of "Kemira-kombi" or at least "Azofoski", and even better - "Solution" of the Buisk plant of chemical fertilizers.

2. There is another effective remedy for spring protection of the garden. This is a homeopathic remedy "Healthy Garden". It normalizes the biochemical processes in the plant in such a way that the balance between carbohydrates and proteins is always the same as it should be in healthy plants, therefore pests (and some diseases) do not touch such plants. In particular, with systematic spraying of the garden (once every 3-4 weeks), it is possible to completely get rid of the moth and scab on apple trees. I also prefer to use Ekoberin together with Zdorovy Sad, which perfectly protects plants from all kinds of temperature scrapes (frost, drought, sudden temperature changes, sunburns in spring). In addition, it is an excellent ecological umbrella that prevents the penetration of toxic substances into plants and promotes the removal of heavy metal salts. The first spraying must be done without fail, since the root system has not yet come into operation. In the Northwest, this should be done at the very beginning of May. But all subsequent spraying can be replaced by watering around the perimeter of the plant crown, because in June, July and August, the root system works fine and will absorb the solution of these drugs. One "but": when feeding through the roots, the consumption of drugs is about three times more than when foliar feeding. And the weeds will also try to snatch something for their loved ones. But the work is easier than spraying - he spread it and poured it from a watering can. By the way, the solution of these drugs is worth it, so that it can be prepared for future use and even poured into the infusion of weeds.

If you do not have enough energy or time for such a global spraying, you can simply water the plantings with a solution of these drugs. The effect will still be, only slower. But watering alone is not enough, since the duration of the action of this solution in the plant does not exceed three weeks.

3. The bacterial preparation "Fitosporin", which effectively works both in the soil and on the leaves, cannot be put into a barrel with weeds at once for the whole season. It should be dissolved in a small amount of water (it is twice as much as the drug) and such a concentrated solution should be kept in the shade. As needed, you should take a tablespoon of solution per 10 liters of water and water the soil and plants. It is very good to make such a mixture of Fitosporin and Gumi together. So you have a choice, it's up to you - decide what and how much to buy for the upcoming season.

4. May is the busiest month, it is not for nothing that there is a proverb "May is coming - there is a lot of work." First of all, carefully examine your seedlings. If the leaves begin to curl downward, and the leaf blades are curved or become convex, a spider mite has settled on them, which is visible only through a magnifying glass. Aphids may appear on peppers. We urgently need to process the seedlings (and at the same time indoor flowers) "Fitoverm" or "Healthy Garden".

5. In addition, before transporting tomato seedlings to the site, it is necessary to make preventive treatment against late blight with a weak solution of copper. The easiest way is to take the powder "Hom" (copper oxychloride) on the tip of a knife and dilute it in 3 liters of water, then spray tomato seedlings in the evening. Instead of copper, you can use "Zircon" or "Fitosporin" (in the apartment they are preferable).

6. Seedlings aster it is imperative to water it with Fitosporin solution or spray it with Zircon or a solution of the same Homa for prophylaxis against the black leg.

7. If any seedlings have pale greens, then feed them with a solution of calcium nitrate (1 hour spoon for 3 liters of water). If the leaves stretch vertically upward or the lower part of the leaves and the stem are purple (especially in tomatoes), this indicates a lack of phosphorus. Top up by dissolving a teaspoon of double granular superphosphate in a glass of hot water (or a tablespoon of ash), let stand overnight, then dilute with three liters of warm water, stir and pour over the tomatoes. Eggplants often have a purple stem, this is a feature of some varieties, and not a lack of phosphorus. If the eggplants do not have enough phosphorus, they lift the leaves up. Peppers rarely experience phosphorus starvation, more often they do not have enough potassium, then their leaves are curled up in a boat. Feed them with potassium nitrate (a teaspoon for three liters of water) or spray with a solution of "Uniflor-Bud" (a teaspoon for 5 liters of water). If the peppers are healthy, their young leaves are lighter than the rest.

8. Do not water the seedlings for 2-3 days before transporting them to the site. Then it will be less fragile and easier to transfer, and it will not be so difficult for you, since the soil will be dry and light.

9. When planting seedlings tomato make such holes in the greenhouse in which the seedlings with a clod of earth are placed and the tomatoes can still be buried in the soil. Before lowering the seedlings into the hole, put an incomplete tablespoon of superphosphate and a third of a teaspoon of the dust fraction of the AVA fertilizer, mix slightly with the soil, pour at least 4-5 liters of water on it. When the water is absorbed, plant the plants. Then the tomatoes should be cured, and the soil under them should be mulched. As a mulch, you can use high-moor peat with a layer of about 10 cm or newspapers, folded in several layers to prevent moisture evaporation from the surface of the earth. With such a planting, you can safely not feed and water the tomatoes all season. The water will go down, the roots will reach for it, and there is always moisture at depth. Moreover, a slight lack of water is beneficial, since it creates a stressful situation in which tomatoes begin to bear fruit faster.

10. This method is not suitable for planting peppers or eggplants as they should be watered all summer, albeit in moderation. Peppers do not tolerate the slightest drying out of the surface layer of the soil, but at the same time they do not like waterlogging.

11. I remind you that peppers when picking and replanting, they do not deepen, eggplants can be deepened. A teaspoon of chlorine-free potassium fertilizer or a tablespoon of ash should be added to the hole before transplanting pepper seedlings. He loves peppers (and eggplants too) adding a third of a teaspoon of the powdered fraction of AVA fertilizer.

12. Do not forget that in the first half of May, nightshade crops cannot be fed with nitrogen in any form. Firstly, nitrogen reduces the frost resistance of any plants, and secondly, nightshade crops will shed their buds and even ovaries. So wait a little with feeding with manure, infusion of weeds or "Kemira" until the moment when they start to grow ovaries.

13. Cut out seedlings of annual flowers, parsley, bush dill.

14. Hold the greened potato tubers for half an hour in a solution of "Fitosporit" or "Homa" for the prevention of fungal diseases. Or use bright pink potassium permanganate. And put in boxes for germination, interlayering with newspapers. Cover the last layer of potatoes with newspapers and close the drawer. Put it in the warmest place, the club will sprout quickly. Potatoes in such packaging are easy to transport to the dacha.

15. It should be planted at the time of flowering bird cherry. Despite the cold snap, the soil has already warmed up enough and there is enough moisture in it. In regions with cold climates, it is not recommended to plant potatoes deeply (on a shovel bayonet), because there are usually cold soils. Potatoes are a thermophilic culture. In order for the tubers to start growing, the soil temperature in the root zone should be 12-15 ° C. The cold is coming from below, the upper layer has warmed up to a shallow depth, so plant the potatoes to a depth of half a shovel bayonet. In the Northwest, on heavy soils, it should generally be planted to a depth of only 5-7 cm, and on light soils - 8-10 cm.

16. To protect against wireworms, add a handful of dry onion husks under each tuber, or even better - pour a solution containing "Nemabakt".

17. On the site now it is no longer possible to spray the garden with concentrated mineral fertilizer or ferrous sulfate against lichens. Leave this work for late autumn, but protective spraying against the first pests that lay larvae and eggs in the opening buds, and then in the buds, must be done. Before flowering, you can use karbofos, since it decomposes within a week and will have time to neutralize itself by the time beneficial insects emerge at the time of flowering of the garden. Better yet, sprinkle with citrus peels or onion peels. It is especially important to do this in a timely manner in the cockpit. I recommend using the Spring Cocktail.

18. Strawberries can be treated with "Fitoverm" against weevil and "Zircon" against gray rot. These drugs are compatible, so you can dissolve them together in one liter of water by taking 2 drops of Zircon and 6 drops of Fitoverm.

19. Gooseberry bushes, affected by powdery mildew, can be treated with Vectra or Topaz, but I prefer non-chemical remedies, and therefore I use a wonderful trinity - Zircon, Epin-extra and Tsitovit.

20. Apple trees who are sick with scab, usually recommend to treat with "Vectra" or "Skor". The first spraying is done on young leaves, and the second - about two weeks after the end of flowering, on young ovaries. In the fall, one more spraying with the same preparations should be done - after the harvest. It is better to replace these chemical poisons with "Zircon" with "Epin-extra" and "Tsitovit" at the moment of unfolding the leaves, it is possible for young ovaries, and after harvesting the same way. Better yet, add "Healthy Garden" to the solution.

In general, the systematic use of the "Healthy Garden" will save plants from the attack of any pests (including aphids), as well as from scab. So the choice of remedies for apple trees is in your hands!

21. Make sure that at the time of flowering the ants do not eat the ovary of the black currant. If the bushes are blooming, but the berries are not being produced, this is their job. Under the bushes to protect against ants, you can lay a rag soaked in kerosene on the soil (but please do not water the soil with kerosene directly). Ants and many other insects do not like its smell and will leave this place. You can drop a drop of Absolute (against ants) or Clean House gel on each trunk growing out of the ground.

Better yet, use the Great Warrior gel. This is the bait. The ants will run to feast on it, but since they treat each other with food, each will not only die himself, but will also destroy a lot of congeners, and most importantly, the uterus. By the way, this drug acts in the same way on wasps. If a large number of ants are scurrying around on the soil under the bushes, remove about 2 cm of the top layer - most likely, there will be an ant egg-laying there. Sprinkle it with the preparations "Fenaxin" or "Ant" - ants and eggs will die.

22. Pruning the garden in May should not be done, especially for cherries, plums and all vines, including grapes. Leave the pruning for the fall.

23. Throughout May, you can still graft apple trees if you have prepared and saved the cuttings in advance.

24. Check for kidney mites on black currants. Mites are usually found in large, round, swollen buds that are very different from others and are clearly visible. Such kidneys must be robbed and burned in the stove, and not thrown away anywhere.

25. When the black currant blooms, look for abnormal flowers with narrow, fused, dirty pink petals on the bushes. This is a very dangerous and infectious disease of black currant for other bushes - terry. Such a bush should be immediately uprooted and burned, even if there are only flowers on one branch.

26. Red currant often attacked by the red-gall aphid, which penetrates the inside of the leaf, eating the flesh. Her feces cause poisoning and red swelling of the leaves. Early spraying of young leaves with Fitoverm will help against such aphids, which is absorbed by them and is in the cell sap for three weeks, protecting the plant from any sucking or gnawing pests. Any external spraying is practically useless, because the aphid is inside the leaf.

27. As soon as pink sprouts appear on the peonies, you should immediately apply a protective spraying on them against rot with a solution of any preparation containing copper, for example Bordeaux liquid. You can also use "Fi-tosporin" or "Zircon".

28. Open roses and clematis and do the same spraying. Then cover them again, but without spruce branches, only with boxes. Put the film on top again, pressing it with a stone so as not to be carried away by the wind. Remove this shelter when the frost has finally passed.

29. To spray "Fitosporin" directly on the soil, it is also necessary to plant phlox, perennial asters, delphiniums and bearded irises.

30. Later, when shoots of lilies appear, do the same spraying on them. This is especially true for oriental hybrids. In general, they should be sprayed systematically all summer, at least once a month, with any of these preparations in order to protect them from the nasty fungal disease - botrytis.

31. If you did not do this at the end of April, then at the very beginning of May, sow onions into the ground - nigella, spring garlic, parsley, dill, cilantro, watercress, sorrel, carrots, lettuce, turnips.

To prevent seedlings from thickening, before sowing, mix a teaspoon of seeds, a teaspoon of the dust fraction of AVA fertilizer, half a glass of fine river sand and sow in prepared furrows as if you were salt food. You can also use ash, but not for carrots - it will become multi-tailed. Instead of sand, you can take dust from sleeping tea or coffee. From above, all crops must first be covered with an old film before sprouting, securing it so that the wind does not blow away (to preserve moisture in the upper layer). Then, after the emergence of shoots, the film must be removed and the beds covered with lutrasil. Watering will be done directly on it.

32. Radish should be sown one by one at once every 3-4 cm. But giant radishes (such as "Duro" and "Alyoshka" or non-shooting "Soro", "White nights" and "Red Sun") should be sown immediately at a distance of 3-5 cm , and then still thin out, eating grown roots. Then the remaining ones will reach 8-10 cm in diameter, otherwise, due to lack of space, the root crops of the Duro and Alyoshka varieties will have about 4 cm in diameter.

33. In greenhouses, on insulated soil (for example, hay introduced into trenches under a soil layer of 25-30 cm), you can sow cucumbers with dry seeds in early May, as well as pumpkin and zucchini for seedlings. Beets and cauliflowers, as well as seeds of annual flowers, can also be sown in a greenhouse and cover the crops with foil before sprouting. It will have to be replaced with double thin lutrasil as soon as seedlings appear.

34. In the middle of the month, you can sow seeds of watermelons and melons, as well as transplant seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, over which a strong wire should be stretched horizontally. Then cover the planted plants with double thin lutrasil, slung over the wire. Under such a shelter, seedlings in a greenhouse tolerate frosts down to minus 6 ° C.

35. When planting seedlings and dry seeds of cucumbers, a hydrogel can be added to the wells, which is pre-soaked in water. The hydrogel turns water into a gel, so the water does not go deep and does not evaporate from the soil surface. Plants gradually take moisture from it. Watering can be done once every two to three weeks. Hydrogel replaces drip irrigation with water. When sowing seeds and planting seedlings, you can pour one third of a teaspoon of the dust fraction of AVA fertilizer into the holes. This is where all the mineral fertilizing of plants ends. Under the cucumbers, it is good to add potassium nitrate before sowing or transplanting seedlings. In the future, it will only take the rest of the summer to water the cucumbers not with water, but with infusion of weeds. Watering cucumbers planted on a hydrogel is reduced to once every 20 days.

36.Peas and beans- plants are cold-resistant, they can be sown in the ground already on May 7-12 without pre-soaking. Beans should be poured with very hot water (about 70 ° C) and sowed immediately, but this should be done later - around May 21-27.

37. Onion sets and turnips in the Northwest, it should be planted in mid-May.

38. Zucchini and pumpkins at the same time, it can be planted in the soil insulated with hay, or on a compost heap under a film shelter.

39. Seedlings of cauliflower are planted in the ground at the end of May, but it should be covered with lutrasil - firstly, from night frosts, and secondly, during the cherry blossoms (mid-May) there are summer summer vegetable flies, which are very fond of cabbage.

40. Do not rush to plant beet seedlings in the ground or sow them in the ground until the end of the frost. If the beets fall at an early age, not only under frost, but even under a cold snap to 3-4 ° C, they will go to the arrow or give a small hard-stone root crop. If May is cold, then it will be better to plant beet seedlings in early June.

41. In mid-May, not only vegetable flies fly, but also glass flies, so spray black currant bushes with infusion of weeds at this time (to disorient the pest).

42. In May, to help apple, cherry and plum trees survive frost easier, they should be sprayed with one of the following preparations: "Epin-extra", "Novosil" or "Ekoberin". In addition, if the frosts were prolonged or strong, spray the trees with the preparation "Ovary" (or "Bud", "Gippersib") on the buds and flowers. This will prevent the ovaries from falling off.

43. Do not feed any plants with nitrogen in May! It reduces frost resistance, and in addition, promotes the shedding of ovaries, especially in tomatoes, eggplants and peppers. Until their first fruits begin to pour in, fertilizing containing nitrogen is contraindicated for them (including infusion of weeds). The same applies to flowers. All nitrogen fertilization should be transferred to early June, when the frost ends.

44. In a cold, lingering wet spring, stone fruits, especially cherries, can suffer from moniliosis. Literally overnight, leaves and whole branches turn brown, as if they were doused with boiling water or a chemical. In the future, such leaves and branches dry up, but then at the beginning of summer, in some places, leaves reappear, which quickly turn yellow and fly around ahead of schedule. "Zircon" is a very effective remedy for fighting this scourge. Spraying three times during the season can save trees from death.

45. The end of May is a good time to plant strawberry rosettes from mother bushes.

46. ​​All May is the time for planting fruit trees.

Calendar of works in the garden and in the garden in May.

Work in the country in May. What needs to be done in the garden and in the garden in May. Everything you need to do in the country in May.

List of works in the garden and in the garden for May

1. May is coming - a lot of work! This is the busiest month, the gardeners are full of worries. Check for kidney mites on black currants. The mites are found in large, round, swollen buds. They are very different from other buds and are clearly visible. The kidneys should be picked and burned in the stove, and not thrown anywhere or in compost.

2. First of all, carefully examine your seedlings. If the leaves begin to curl downward, and the leaf blades bend or become convex, then a spider mite has settled on them, which can only be seen in a magnifying glass. Aphids may appear on peppers. This often happens if there are indoor flowers in the room where the seedlings are growing. We urgently need to process the seedlings with Fitoverm or Healthy Garden, as well as indoor flowers. These are biological preparations, they can be used in the apartment.

Seedlings of asters must be watered with a solution of "Fitosporin" or HOM for prophylaxis against the black leg.

3. If the seedlings have pale greens, then feed them with a solution of calcium nitrate (1 teaspoon per 3 liters of water). If the leaves stretch vertically upward or the lower part of the leaves and the stem are purple, especially in tomatoes, this is a lack of phosphorus.

Top dressing by dissolving a teaspoon of double granular superphosphate in a glass of hot water (or a tablespoon of ash), let it brew overnight, then dilute it with 3 liters of warm water, stir and pour over the tomatoes. Eggplants often have a purple stem - this is a feature of some varieties, and not a lack of phosphorus. If the eggplant lacks phosphorus, they lift the leaves upward. Peppers rarely experience phosphorus starvation, more often they do not have enough potassium, then their leaves are curled up in a boat. Give them potassium nitrate (1 teaspoon per 3 liters of water) or spray with Uniflora-Bud solution (1 teaspoon per 3 liters of water). If the peppers are healthy, their young leaves are lighter than the rest.

4. In addition, before transporting tomato seedlings to the site, it is necessary to do preventive spraying with a weak solution of copper against late blight. The easiest way is to take HOM powder (copper oxychloride) on the tip of a knife and dilute it in 1 liter of water, then spray tomato leaves in the evening.

5. Do not water the seedlings before transporting them to the site for 2 - 3 days. Then it will be less fragile and easier to transfer, and it will not be so hard for you, since the soil will be dry and light. When planting tomato seedlings in a greenhouse, make holes in which the seedlings with a lump of earth are placed, and the tomatoes can still be buried in the soil.

Put in an incomplete tablespoon of superphosphate and a third of a teaspoon of the dust fraction of AVA fertilizer, mix lightly with the soil. Before lowering the seedlings into the hole, pour at least 4-5 liters of water into it. When the water is absorbed, plant the plants. Then the tomatoes should be cured, and the soil under them should be mulched.

As mulch, you can use high-moor peat with a layer of about 10 cm and just newspapers, folded in several layers to prevent moisture evaporation from the surface of the earth.

With such a planting, you can safely no longer water the tomatoes all season. The water will go down, and the roots will pull after it, and at the depths in the North-West region there is always moisture. Moreover, a slight lack of water is beneficial, since it creates a stressful situation in which tomatoes begin to bear fruit faster.

This method is not suitable for planting peppers or eggplant seedlings, as they should be watered all summer, albeit in moderation. Peppers do not tolerate the slightest drying out of the surface layer of the soil, but at the same time they do not like waterlogging. Do not forget that in the first half of May, nightshade crops cannot be fed with nitrogen in any form. Firstly, nitrogen reduces the frost resistance of any plants, and secondly, these crops will shed their buds and even ovaries. So wait with feeding with manure, infusion of weeds or kemira until the ovary begins to grow in them.

I remind you that peppers do not deepen when picking and replanting, but eggplants can be deepened. A teaspoon of chlorine-free potassium fertilizer or a tablespoon of ash should be added to the hole before transplanting seedlings under the peppers. He loves peppers (and eggplants too) adding a third of a teaspoon of the powdered fraction of AVA fertilizer.

6. Cut out seedlings of annual flowers, parsley, and bush dill. Place the green potatoes in the boxes for sprouting. Put a layer of potatoes in a cardboard box, dividing it with bundles of twisted newspaper - so that the roots and shoots do not intertwine with each other.

Then spray a layer of potatoes with a solution of "Fitosporin" or HOM to prevent fungal diseases. Layer 3 layers of newspaper and again layer of potatoes separated with newspaper strands. Spray with Fitosporin or HOM, cover with 3 layers of newspaper and spread out the third layer of potatoes. Spray with the same solution. Cover with newspapers and close drawer. Place it in the warmest place. The tubers will sprout quickly. Potatoes in such packaging are easy to transport to the dacha.

7. Potatoes should be planted at the time of flowering bird cherry. Despite the cold snap, the soil has already warmed up and there is enough moisture in it. In our region, it is not recommended to plant potatoes deeply (on the bayonet of a shovel), because we have cold soils. Potatoes are a thermophilic culture, so that the tubers start growing, the soil temperature should be 12-15 degrees Celsius in the root zone. The cold is coming from below, the upper layer has warmed up to a shallow depth, so plant the potatoes to a depth of half a shovel's bayonet on sandy soils and only 7-10 cm on heavy soils. Then spud one more time, but the harvest will be earlier. If there is a threat of night frosts, and the potatoes have sprung up, then spud them head over heels so that there is 2 - 3 cm of earth above the rising crown. Or, immediately after planting, cover with lutrasil directly on the ground and do not remove until the end of the frost.

8. Now it is no longer possible to spray the garden with concentrated mineral fertilizer or ferrous sulfate against lichens. Leave this job for late fall. However, a protective spraying against the first pests that lay larvae and eggs in the expanding buds, and then detaching buds, must be done. Before flowering, you can use karbofos, since it decomposes within a week and will have time to neutralize itself by the time beneficial insects emerge at the time of flowering of the garden. Better yet, sprinkle with citrus peels or onion peels. It is especially important to do this in a timely manner on the viburnum. Strawberries can be treated with Fitoverm against weevils in late April or early May. Gooseberry bushes affected by powdery mildew should be treated with one of the Vectra or Topaz preparations, and apple trees with scab should be treated with Vectra or Skorom.

The first spraying is done on young leaves, and the second - about two weeks after the end of flowering - on young ovaries. In the fall, one more spraying with the same preparations should be done after the harvest. I do not use chemical poisons in my garden, so instead of the above preparations I spray the whole garden with a “spring cocktail”: 2 grains of the “Healthy Garden”, 2 grains of “Ecoberin” (can be replaced with 2 drops of “Epin-extra”), 2 drops of “Zircon” "And 4 drops of" Uniflora-growth "or" Uniflora-bud "- all together for 1 liter of water.

9. Make sure that at the time of flowering the ants do not eat the ovary of the black currant. If the bushes are blooming, but the berries are not being produced, this is their job. Under the bushes to protect against ants, you can spread a rag soaked in kerosene on the soil, but please do not water the soil with kerosene. Ants and many other insects do not like this smell. They will leave this place. You can drop a drop on each trunk growing from the ground, 1 drop of the drug "Absolute" against ants, or even better, use the gel "Great Warrior". This is the bait. The ants will run to feast on it. But since the ants treat each other with food, each of them will not only die himself, but also destroy a lot of their relatives, and most importantly, the uterus. By the way, this drug also acts on wasps.

If a large number of ants are scurrying around on the soil under the bushes, remove about 2 cm of the top layer of the soil, most likely there will be an ant egg-laying there. Pollinate the egg-laying with Muravyin or Phenaxin. Ants and eggs pollinated with the drug die.

10. Pruning the garden in May should not be done, especially for cherries, plums and all lianas. Leave the pruning for the fall. You can still graft apple trees throughout May if you have prepared and saved the cuttings in advance.

11. When the black currant blooms, look for abnormal flowers with narrow, fused, dirty pink petals on the bushes. This is a very dangerous and infectious disease of black currant for other bushes - terry. Such a bush should be immediately uprooted and burned, even if there are only flowers on one branch.

12. Red currants are often attacked by red-gall aphids, which penetrate the inside of the leaf, eating away at the flesh. Her feces cause poisoning and red swelling of the leaves. Early spraying of young leaves with Fitoverm, which is absorbed by the leaf and functions in the cell sap for three weeks, protecting the plant from any sucking or gnawing pests, will help. Any external spraying is practically useless, because the aphid is inside the leaf. But you can prevent it from entering the sheet by making a soda sprinkling on the underside of the sheet (3 tablespoons of baking soda or soda ash per 10 liters of water). The fact is that aphids penetrate the leaf from the bottom side. She has very delicate skin, which will burn a soda bloom when aphids crawl along the underside of the leaf, and she will die.

13. During prolonged cold, and especially humid spring, there may be an outbreak of fungal disease of stone fruit crops (cherry, plum, apricot) - moniliosis. Literally overnight, the leaves turn brown, as if they were doused with boiling water or acid, the branches also turn brown. The impression is that the plant has died. But then new leaves appear on the bark on the same branches from dormant buds. It would seem that everything worked out. But no, these leaves turn yellow early and fall off in early August. There is no harvest, just like not, and those single berries that have nevertheless tied up usually crack and rot right on the branches.

If you observed a similar phenomenon in early spring, then urgently treat the plant with a "spring cocktail", then repeat the treatment with "Zircon" (6 drops per 1 liter of water) immediately after flowering, and then at the end of July. The next year, start spraying this plant on the spread of the leaves with the same "spring cocktail" and continue to do this monthly throughout the season. With this intense protection, the tree can usually be saved. If you do not have these drugs, then you can use drugs containing copper according to the instructions.

14. As soon as pink sprouts appear on the peonies, you should immediately apply a protective spraying against rot either with a solution of any preparation containing copper, including a solution of Bordeaux liquid, or use "Fitosporin". The same spraying is advisable to do on plantings of roses, clematis, phlox, irises, perennial asters. After spraying, cover the clematis with lutrasil until the end of the frost. Later, when shoots of lilies appear, do the same spraying on them. This is especially true for oriental hybrids. In general, they should be sprayed systematically all summer, at least once a month, with the preparation "Zircon" (4 drops per 1 liter of water).

15. At the very beginning of May, if you did not do it at the end of April, sow black onions, spring garlic, parsley, dill, cilantro, watercress, sorrel, carrots, lettuce, turnips into the ground. To prevent seedlings from thickening, before sowing, mix 1 teaspoon of seeds, 1 teaspoon of the dust fraction of AVA fertilizer, half a glass of river sand and sow in prepared furrows as if you were salt food. From above, all crops must first be covered with an old film before the emergence of seedlings, securing it so that the wind does not carry it away, and then, after the emergence of seedlings, the film must be removed and cover the seedlings with lutrasil. Watering will be done directly on the lutrasil.

16. Radishes should be sown one by one at once every 3-4 cm. But giant radishes, such as Duro or Alyoshka, must be sown immediately at a distance of 5-7 cm, and then thinned out by eating grown root crops. Then the remaining ones will reach 8-10 cm in diameter, otherwise, due to lack of space, the root crops will have about 4 cm in diameter.

17. Check again for kidney mites on black currants - mites are found in large, round, swollen buds. They are very different from other buds and are clearly visible. The kidneys should be picked and burned in the stove, and not thrown anywhere or in compost.

18. In greenhouses on warmed soil (for example, hay introduced into trenches, 25-30 cm soil sublayer), you can sow cucumbers with dry seeds already in early May, as well as sow pumpkin and zucchini seeds for seedlings. In addition, beetroot and cauliflower, as well as the seeds of annual flowers, immediately and before emergence, cover with foil, which must be replaced with double thin lutrasil as soon as the seedlings appear.

19. In the middle of the month, you can sow seeds of watermelons and melons, as well as transplant seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, but over them you should stretch a horizontally strong wire and cover the planted plants with a double thin lutrasil, throwing it over the wire. Under such a shelter, plants in a greenhouse tolerate frosts down to minus 6 degrees.

20. When planting seedlings or when sowing dry seeds of cucumbers, a hydrogel should be added to the wells, which is pre-soaked in water. A hydrogel is a polymer crumb that, absorbing water with a soil solution of mineral fertilizers, turns into a gel, so the water does not go deep and does not evaporate from the soil surface. Plants gradually take moisture from it. Watering can be done once every two to three weeks. In fact, the hydrogel replaces drip irrigation with water.

When sowing seeds and planting seedlings, the easiest way is to add one third of a teaspoon of the dust fraction of the AVA fertilizer and half a glass of the prepared gel to the holes. This is where all your mineral fertilizing of plants ends. It is best to add potassium nitrate (1 teaspoon) under the cucumbers before sowing or transplanting seedlings. In the future, you only need to water the cucumbers not with water, but with infusion of weeds or manure for the rest of the summer. Watering cucumbers planted on a hydrogel is reduced to once every 20 days. It is very useful to mulch the soil under the plantings of cucumbers with the grass cut from the lawns. Moreover, lawns should be mowed every two weeks, until the grass grows too large and begins to spike. Moisture and warmth will be retained under the mulch.

21. Peas and beans are cold-resistant plants, they can be sown in the ground as early as May 9-10 without pre-soaking. The beans should be poured with very hot water, about 70 degrees, and sowed immediately. But this should be done later, around May 15-20.

22. Onion sets and onions should be planted after May 15th. Do not forget that the onion bed should be illuminated by the sun all day, in addition, bulbous crops require slightly alkalized soil (pH 6-7).

23. Zucchini and pumpkins can be planted in the ground (preferably on a warmed with hay or on a compost heap) under a film shelter in mid-May.

24. Cauliflower can be transplanted into the ground at the end of May, but should be covered with lutrasil. Firstly, this will protect the plants from night frosts, and secondly, during the cherry blossoms (mid-May), there are summer summer vegetable flies, which are very fond of cabbage. When planting cabbage seedlings, a tablespoon of calcium nitrate and an incomplete teaspoon of the powdered fraction of AVA fertilizer should be added to each hole and 1 - 2 liters of water should be poured. The soil should be mulched with either mowed grass or newspapers folded in several layers.

25. Do not rush to plant seedlings of beets in the ground or sow them in the ground until the end of the frost. If beets fall at an early age, not only under frost, but even under a cold snap to 3-4 degrees Celsius, they will either go to the arrow or give a small hard-stone root crop.

26. In mid-May, not only vegetable flies fly, but also glass flies, so spray black currant bushes with infusion of weeds at this time to disorient the pest.

27. In May, to help apple trees, cherries and plums survive frost easier, they should be sprayed with one of the following preparations: Epin-extra, Novosil (Silk) or Ekoberin. In addition, if the frosts were prolonged or strong, spray the trees with the preparation "Ovary" ("Bud", "Gippersib") on the buds and flowers, this will prevent the ovaries from falling off.

28. If there are spring frosts in your region, do not feed any plants with nitrogen until they end! Nitrogen reduces frost resistance. In addition, it promotes the shedding of ovaries, especially in tomatoes, eggplants and peppers.

Until their first fruits begin to pour in, fertilizing containing nitrogen is contraindicated for them (including infusion of weeds). The same applies to flowers. All nitrogen fertilization in the Northwest region should be transferred to early June, when the frost ends.

The garden is gradually waking up after a long hibernation, the buds are about to begin to bloom. Now, in spring, fruit trees and shrubs especially need the protection and attention of a gardener. How to treat trees and shrubs in early spring, how to help our beloved "flavors" to cure diseases, protect from pests and adverse climatic conditions, we figure it out together with experienced gardeners of our portal, who have accumulated volumes of useful material on this topic over the years of gardening.

In this article, we'll cover:

1. How to prepare a remedy for spring garden spraying at home;
2. Calendar of garden treatments in early spring in spring. When to carry out the first treatment;
3. How to prepare Bordeaux liquid;
4. How to deal with fungal diseases;

A member of our portal Eleni three grandchildren, therefore, in his family they attach great importance to the safety of fruits and berries, and "no chemistry" is used at all. The question of how to spray fruit trees and shrubs in the spring does not arise in this family: the treatment of the garden from diseases and pests is done only with safe home remedies.

Home remedies for spraying fruit trees and shrubs:

1. Infusion of garlic;
2. Infusion of onion peels.
   Green soap is added to these infusions for better adhesion.

An infusion of onion peels is made as follows: 350 grams of onion peels are poured with two liters of water, brought to a boil and cooled. The resulting solution is diluted in 10 liters of water with 2 tablespoons of green soap (sold in garden stores).

Garlic infusion recipe: 300 grams of whole, unpeeled garlic heads are passed through a meat grinder, poured with water. The mixture is insisted for a day, stirring from time to time, add 2 tablespoons of green soap, and dilute in 10 liters of water.

Also popular is the treatment of currant and gooseberry bushes with boiling water (not hot water, but just boiling water, from a boiled teapot), which is carried out even before the buds open. Try to start processing with this - surprisingly, boiling water turns out to be no less effective than special substances.

Helga FORUMHOUSE User

This is an old way of destroying bud mite clutches and powdery mildew rudiments.

How can we help our beloved "scent", how to process them in order to cure diseases, protect from pests and unfavorable climatic conditions? Let's see what the experienced gardeners of our portal are doing.

1. How to prepare a remedy for spring garden spraying at home.
2. Calendar of treatments for fruit plants in spring.
3. How to prepare Bordeaux liquid.
4. How to deal with mushroom plants.
5. Why it is impossible to refuse spring garden treatments.

Home remedies

A member of our portal Eleni three grandchildren, therefore, in his family they attach great importance to the safety of fruits and berries, and "no chemistry" is used at all. In early spring, he sprays all his garden bushes and trees with infusions of garlic and onion peels, to which he adds green soap for better adhesion.

An infusion of onion peels is made as follows: 350 grams of onion peels are poured with two liters of water, brought to a boil and cooled. The resulting solution is diluted with 10 liters of water with 2 tablespoons of green soap (sold in garden stores).

Garlic infusion recipe: 300 grams of whole, unpeeled garlic heads are passed through a meat grinder, poured with water. The mixture is insisted for a day, stirring from time to time, add 2 tablespoons of green soap.

Both of these infusions are used for spring spraying of all fruit crops.

Also popular is the treatment of currant and gooseberry bushes with boiling water (not hot water, but boiling water, from a boiled teapot), which is carried out even before the buds open.

May took over and painted nature in its first bright colors. The trees are rapidly trying on new outfits, as if preparing for the summer, and a young blade of grass has spread across the ground. Immediately, the bees got down to business, fertilizing the flowers with nectar. From the first half of May, as soon as the sun is already constantly giving off heat, the grass is rapidly turning green, and the trees begin to be covered with dense leaves. In just a week, the leaf cover increases several times. At the same time, insect pests wake up. Therefore, timely and correct work will save our garden, make it healthy, beautiful and productive.

CARE OF FRUIT TREES AND SHRUBS:

At the beginning of the month we finish planting fruit trees. We examine the apple tree saplings planted in autumn, and carefully raise the ones that are too deep. We mulch the soil around the trees planted in autumn or spring, having previously loosened it.

Late spring frosts are possible at this time. We monitor the temperature and listen to forecasts in order to know in advance the danger of their occurrence. At the onset of frost, we begin to smoke or sprinkle the garden.Remember that even light frosts can damage flowers and rob you of your harvest. For example, flower buds of an apple tree can withstand temperatures as low as -4 degrees, and already opened flowers will die at 0: -1 degrees.

As it appears, we remove the basal and stem shoots, cutting it into a ring.

We control the trapping belts; when dry, we install new ones based on the "Clean House", "Alt" glue.

Until the buds appear, it's time to treat pome trees with 1% Bordeaux liquid, a suspension of coloid sulfur (100 g of sulfur per 10 liters of water) or 0.01% Bayleton solution. Against apple sawfly and cherry weevil - with karbofos solution. If there are not many pests, then it is better to use biological preparations, for example, fitoverm.

After flowering, we treat plants from pests and diseases (moth - Fufanon, Kemifos, Iskra, Tsitkor, Kinmiks, Fury, mites - colloidal sulfur att- pe above 18 ° С or Neoron at low or high temperatures, aphids - Desis, Klinmiks, scab - Skor, spotting - Copper oxychloride)

White boles with hexachloride emulsion for pest control.

Before flowering, we water the garden at the rate of 1.5-2 buckets of water for each year of the tree's life.

We carry out fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers (after flowering), followed by mulching of the trunks(with a layer of 8-10 cm). At the end of May, we carry out a second fertilizing with nitrogen, if the leaves are light green.

We carry out repeated sanitary pruning if necessary.

We carry out the second spraying of gooseberries from powdery mildew (immediately after flowering, but not earlier than 10 days after the first spraying)

We spray other fruit bushes against diseases and pests (immediately after flowering)

Weed the weeds.

At the beginning of the second decade, we carry out the first feeding of garden strawberries.Before loosening the soil, add urea (250-300 g per 10 m²) or ammonium nitrate (300-400 g per m²).

Flowering under favorable weather conditionsgarden strawberryends in the third decade of May. At this time, it is optimal to carry out the second feeding: Urea
(urea) (NH 2 ) 2 CO - Application rate - 10-15 g / m2, Superphosphate Ca (H 2 PO 4 ) 2 - Application dose - 20-30 g / m², Potassium sulfate K 2 SO 4 - The dose of application is 15-20 g / m².

CARE OF DECORATIVE DECIDUAL TREES AND SHRUBS:

We spray against pests, the processing time is the beginning of bud break (green cone). 0.1% solution of AKTELLIK; 0.01% DIMILIN solution; 0.01% ARRIVO solution; 0.02% solution of KARATE; 0.03% INTA-VIR solution; 0.01% solution of TSIMBUSH; 1% solution of colloidal sulfur. With repeated treatments, it is necessary to change the active substance, and not the name of the drug.

In mid-May, we carry out foliar feeding of deciduous trees and shrubs with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. For this top dressing, we take any readily soluble nitrogen fertilizers and dilute them according to the instructions, then add 10 parts of water to the resulting solution, counting the volume of the solution diluted according to the instructions per unit. With the obtained weak solution of nitrogen fertilizers, we spray the plants over the green mass, avoiding the solution getting on the flowers.

If you did not manage to feed deciduous trees and shrubs in April, we include this event in the maintenance of the garden in May. We apply a complete mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen into the soil, under a shovel.

We carry out repeated treatment from pests.

Weeding the landings.

CARE FOR CONIFEROUS TREES AND SHRUBS:

We process conifers and shrubs, especially we pay attention to plants not characteristic of our zone - thuja, junipers, hemlock and other immunostimulating drugs and drugs that stimulate root formation, such as EPIN, ETAMON.

We weed the trunks of trees and shrubs, carefully removing the roots of perennial weeds - by doing this work in the garden in May in good faith, you will save yourself from exhausting summer labor. After weeding and loosening the soil, it's time to fix and form the tree-trunk circles and shrubs.

In the first decade of May, we carry out root dressing: NUTRISOL 25g per plant (10l 0.25% solution), continuous treatment against bark beetles and foliar dressing: DETSIS PROFI 0.04% + complex chelated micronutrient fertilizer 0.2% + iron chelate 0.1% + lignohumate K 0.15%

In recent years, spring has often been very dry in our region. We water the tree-trunk circles of trees and shrubs. Watering should be abundant and long-term. Unlike deciduous, coniferous plants love sprinkling.

In the third decade of May, continuous treatment of plants from diseases and pests: CLIPER 0.2% + TOPAZ 0.1%, and root feeding:NUTRISOL 25g per plant (10l. 0.25% solution)

GAS CARE:

We carefully inspect the surface of the lawn, if we see the appeared moss, we clean the areas of the lawn from moss. If there is a lot of moss on the lawn, add a mixture of sifted sand and dolomite flour (or lime).

We remove weeds from the surface of the lawn.

If after winter there are a lot of "bald" spots on the lawn, we sow seeds of lawn grass, additionally to these areas, mixing these seeds with sand. We will roll up the sown areas of the lawn.

If the weather is dry, we water the lawn.

Lawn mowing begins in May. ATTENTION!!! The lawn grass weakened after winter is mowed high - by 7-8 cm. Low mowing of the lawn in May will further weaken the lawn and lead to an even greater loss of decorative effect.

After the first mowing of the lawn, we feed the lawn with full mineral fertilizer, with a predominance of nitrogen.

We mow the lawn regularly, perhaps every week, as the grass grows back.

FLOWER CARE:

If in April they did not manage to remove parts of perennial plants - it's time to do it in early May.

Be sure to remove the flower stalks on faded bulbous plants, do not allow the setting of seeds.

We loosen the soil in flower beds, carefully removing perennial weeds.

We will carry out foliar feeding of flower beds with fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen.

We will introduce a complete mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen in the soil of the flower garden.

We will mulch the surface of the flower beds to prevent the topsoil from drying out(You can use neutral peat, wood chips, which we get by chopping branches of trees and bushes).

We plant seedlings of annual flowers in decorative flowerpots and pots.

The rhizomes of the irises must be dug out so that they are half protruding from the ground, the roots of irises prefer to be closer to the soil surface, where the greatest amount of nutrients is concentrated. That is why the ground around the plant must be very carefully loosened, ensuring thatThis is the access of air masses to the root system.

Landscape designer LLC "Greenlandia" Togliatti
Ayupova Gelfiya