How to make a hanging ceiling of drywall do it yourself?

The perfectly smooth ceiling is not a luxury, but a vital necessity.

In thousands of apartments today you can see untidy seams and drops from casually laid overlap panels. Without installation of the suspended ceiling, it is impossible to hide them. In a new house, such a design is a mandatory option, without which the modern interior is unthinkable.

Multi-level suspended structures, photos of which are posted on the Internet, the newcomer seems unthinkable in performance. However, in fact, the suspended ceiling made of drywall is quite simple.

For the success of this work, you will need an accurate calculation of the number of all materials, sketch of the design and the minimum set of tool.

What will be required to install a suspended ceiling?

Since any suspended ceiling consists of a frame and cladding, then first of all you need to calculate and buy these materials. The frame of the plasterboard ceiling is standard and minimal by the number of parts.

It consists of such elements:

• Starting profile - UD;
• Main (carrying profile) - CD;
• Direct suspensions;
• Dowel;
• (Ceiling).

If necessary (determined by the size of the room), this list will need to be supplemented with single-level connectors "crabs" and profile extension cords.

The task of "crabs" is a compound perpendicularly joined profiles. They are used in the case when the ceiling has a large area. Here, transverse are added to the longitudinal sheets of sheets.

If you want to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands in the bathroom, kitchen or hallway, then "crabs" you will not need. When installing the sheath in the hall or bedroom, the short sides of the sheets will not be attached to what. Therefore, the transverse rails of the frame complement the longitudinal. To build such a crate, one-level crab connectors will be needed.

By logic, if there is single-level, then there must be two-level "crabs"? Yes, such fasteners exists, but it is used to connect profiles, which is at different heights (in multi-level ceiling systems).

For the first time you do not need to be taken for the complex design. Understand the technology and "fill the hand" best on a simple single-level ceiling.

Before starting the installation, it is very useful to make a sketch of the future design.. It will help calculate the required amount of profile and fasteners. For example, consider the compilation of the sketch of the suspended ceiling for the kitchen. We measure the room and move its overall dimensions on a sheet of paper.

Having such a sketch, you can easily calculate all the necessary frameworks for the frame with an accuracy of one self-press. In addition, the framework scheme will help accurately install plasterboard, without getting it the edge in an empty gap of the crate. To do this, the step of the carrier profile must be chosen so that the edges of the plasterboard sheets (length 2.5 and width of 1.2 meters) fell on it, and they could be secured with self-draws.

The first two profiles put from the wall at a distance of 15-20 cm smaller than the pitch of ordinary slats. It is necessary to enhance extreme portions of the frame, which are based on a weak starting rail.

Because directly affects the design of the framework, in advance, in the sketch, all the necessary parts are in a sketch (points of installation of the stretch ceiling, the end of the "Steps", curvilinear sites, etc.)

Tools and stages of work

High-quality installation of drywall on the ceiling will not be able to do if the necessary tool is not at hand. Since the main part of the work is related to the sharp and fastening of the steel profile, the installation of plasterboard sheets, then you will need:

• perforator;
• bulgarian;
• scissors for metal;
• rechargeable screwdriver;
• construction knife.

From the measuring devices, you need to purchase a rule (2 meters), ordinary and water levels, roulette and pencil. If instead of the water you buy a laser level, then the installation preparation phase will be much easier.

An independent device of the plasterboard ceiling can be started only after thorough markup. First you need to "repel" a horizontal line (horizon level) around the perimeter of the room. The starting profile will be installed on it. In order to find this line, you need to decide on the distance of the outboard from the overlap.

The design without point lamps is sufficiently lowered only by 4-5 cm. If the lamp lighting will be put in the drywall, then it will have to leave a gap for at least 8 cm in the prescription space.

Since the height of the ceilings is even in one room - the value is non-permanent, we will have to find the lowest point in it, from which we postpone the distance from the retreat (lowering) of the suspension design. To do this, measure the height of the ceiling in four corners and in the middle of the room.

Then the lowest height lay on the wall with a roulette and fix the pencil mark. After that, the resulting point must be transferred to all the walls and combine the overall horizontal line. In the course of this work, we will see the advantages of the laser before the water hose water hose.

With a water device, one will not manage to manage. One person must keep an ampoule with fission on the initial mark, and the other is to put the second to the next wall. The water level in the reporting graded ampoules is the same, so on the second wall, the horizon mark is determined quickly.

When using a laser level, the process will be easier. We put it in the middle of the room and put it in the working position. Then spend the beam on all the walls and make marks. The distance from the original (base) point, which fixes the bottom of the ceiling, measure the tape measure and sequentially set it up from the line, "the battered" laser.

Now it remains to connect all points using a long rule. On this line, we will fix the bottom of the starting profile and get the belt to install the carrier frame. Note that more complex two-level ceilings are placed in exactly as well.

After mounting the starting metal planes, proceed to the mounting of the suspensions. To do this, it is necessary to wear glasses and a respirator so that the dust does not get into the eyes and lungs. Direct suspensions put on the placed points and are fixed with dowels. They record the carrier strips (CD), which are at the starting profile and in the interval between the bent "soup" of the suspension.

By fixing from two sides, the profile of the suspension, the ends of the "Usov" flex.

The result of the work done will be a durable lattice frameReady for fastening drywall and further finish.

Since the ceiling dimensions very rarely coincide with an entire number of shears of the trim, then part of the plasterboard will have to cut. First fix entire sheets. This work requires the participation of a minimum of 2 people.

Approaching the other edge of the frame, we can accurately determine the size of the cut sheet. Closing the walls to the walls do not need to be made back. It is better to leave a small gap (0.5-1 cm). It compensates the temperature expansion of the material and will be closed by the ceiling plinth (baguette).

Self-tapping screws in plasterboard twist neatly, slightly blocking the hat into the material. The finish putty will completely hide these points.

Plasterboard set so that sheets of sheets accounted for in the middle of the profiles. At the same time, they need to be allowed to be parties that have special recesses for reinforcing tape (sickle) and shtkock.

Long sides of sheets that do not have similar joints are prepared under putty, cutting (extending) edges with a construction knife.

After the shelves are closed with a reinforcing ribbon, further finish will cease to the splocks of the seams and points of the screws of the screws.

After completing this work, you need to give putty to dry until the next day. Then you can proceed to the grout of the seams by the emery mesh, and then rinse the plasterboard and apply a solid finish putty on it (1-2 mm thick). The starting here is not required here, because the surface of the sheets is very smooth. We need to put the entire surface at once, without long breaks so that there are no cracks.

Having finished finishing, it gives it 4-5 days to dry out, after which they grind and ground. Works completes the painting of the surface with roller or spray gun. If you decide to leave the suspended ceiling with wallpaper, then a solid putty and grinding it is not needed. The texture of the rolled material is well hiding small irregularities.