The quartz watch doesn't work. Handicraft shop - master class - how to install a clockwork

MK - How to install a quartz movement - watch assembly

I make watches, they are often bought from me. Usually I give the watch personally to the buyer, or send it by mail. And in this case, one problem always arises - how to pack the watch so that the hands of the watch do not bend or break. They are quite fragile, you can easily bend if you press them a little harder, and you yourself know very well how they throw parcels at the post office. As a result, the parcel turns out to be of a huge format, and all due to the fact that in all sorts of clever ways I try to pack exactly the arrows, fix them so that they do not dangle and are protected (foam plastic, puffy cellophane, etc.).

I propose to send a watch without hands - i.e. remove them and put them separately in a bag. Then the parcel will turn out to be smaller in size and the probability of breakage of the arrows is reduced to zero altogether. But, as it turned out, almost 90% have a fear: "Oh, don't take them off, otherwise I won't put them back - it's difficult there, I can't and I'm afraid to break it!" Here, approximately, everyone has similar words to these words ... Honestly, when I assembled the clock mechanism for the first time, I myself also fiddled with it for about half an hour, until I disassembled the other clock and looked at how everything was assembled there) ... It's funny when you know how and know, and when you don't - the torment begins.

As a result, I decided to make a small PHOTO MK and tell in it, or rather, show how it is necessary to assemble the clockwork, and what are some of the tricks. Now I will send the watch without hands, and send the buyer to this article))), and he will be able to collect everything himself. And why did not this thought occur earlier ...

Getting started:

1. You have a watch - this is a wooden (or any other) disc, and there is a set for assembling a quartz movement.
You can see this set in the photo. Usually arrows are not included in this set, but are sold separately. Let's assume that we have everything completely and consider the complete set.
The set includes:
- clockwork (black square box in the photo) with a stem and a thread on it,
- metal bracket-loop - for hanging on the wall (sometimes the loop is immediately installed on the body),
- rubber washer,
- golden washer,
- golden nut,
- 3 hands - hour, minute, second.

2. On a square base there is small ledge, I show it with an arrow.

3. We put a metal loop on the stem in such a way that it stands exactly in this ledge. The loop (hole) itself should, at the same time, be at the bottom, as in the photo, do not mix it up, otherwise you will not be able to hang the clock on the wall.

4. Now we take a rubber washer - a gasket.

5. Putting on a rubber washer on the stem - either side.

6. Now string the watch disc onto this assembled structure... The stem must go through the hole on the disc and come out together with thread! it important point, keep this in mind when buying a watch movement. Its stem and thread must be of such a size that they (namely the thread) protrude outward by at least 5-6 mm. or even more, when installing the mechanism on a disc, otherwise you will not be able to screw the fixing nut onto the threads.

Here's my specific example:
I use plywood for a thick disc 8 mm. and 10 mm., I buy a clockwork with a stem 22 mm.(his thread is 18 mm.). Mechanism with 18 mm stem. (12 mm thread) not suitable for plywood thickness 8 mm. (for 10 mm, even more so), despite the fact that the instructions say that it should fit (for some reason they do not take into account the thickness of the rubber washer and the thickness of the golden washer, and they both give a few more mm to the thickness of the disc itself.). The thread protrudes slightly above the surface, but there is generally no way to screw a nut onto it.
Remember:
Stock 22 (18) 8-10 mm.
Stock 18 (12) suitable for thick plywood 6 mm... or less.

7. From the back it looks like this.

8. Prepare the golden washer and nut.

9. First take the puck.

10. And string the washer on the stock.

11. Then we take nut and screw it onto the thread stock. It is necessary to tightly fix the entire structure with a nut. Do everything with your hands, no need to use pliers!

12. In this photo (made larger) it is clearly visible that the thread protrudes slightly above the nut. This is fine. Now, if it were not visible at all, then the nut would simply not be able to screw on it and the whole structure would fall apart.

13. Now you can put on the arrows.

14. First puts on the hour hand.

Attention! She puts on TIGHTLY! Keep this in mind. It is necessary to hold it with two fingers and press them on both sides of the base of the arrow at the same time, otherwise it will not fit - it has its own place on the rod, its own diameter, it will not stand on him all the way.

If suddenly the arrow does not want to fit in any way (this often happens, and this is what scares everyone - they think that they are doing something wrong), do this - flip it inside out and string on the stem in this position. This is how it will fit for sure. The hole drilled in the arrow has a "skirt" and it will stretch a little if you put the arrow on the wrong side. Then take it off and put it on correctly.

15. Then puts on minute hand... With her - the same story, she also puts on pretty tight. We proceed by analogy with the first arrow. And don't bend the sides at the base of the arrow when you press on it!

16. It remains only to put on second hand... It is not threaded onto the stem, but simply inserted from above into the hole in the stem - put it there and push it down with your thumb.

17. That's all. The mechanism is installed.

18. Now we need to check are all three arrows parallel relative to each other - otherwise, when rotating, they will catch on each other and ... there will be no rotation. The arrows will just get stuck.

19. Watching this, collecting all three arrows in one place, and turning the clock on its side. If they touch each other, bend them with your fingers at the base to the desired position.

20. Insert the battery, keeping an eye on + and -. This is written on the mechanism.

21. And ... watch is ready! The arrows began to move - the time has passed!

That's the whole secret of assembling a quartz movement. And, as you can see, there are still some nuances, and you need to know them in order for everything to turn out easily and simply. I hope my photos and explanations will help you if you ever make a watch or decide to replace the clock mechanism in an old watch with a new one.

It all started with the fact that 2 years ago, from a trip to Belarus, I brought my grandfather a watch of local production of the TROYKA brand as a gift.

This watch has a smooth-running quartz movement (there is an abbreviation MPH :)), i.e. the second hand does not click loudly every second, but rather quietly rustles continuously. From the included salt battery, the clock quite accurately departed for 2 months. Well, I replaced it with an alkaline one and the clock got up in a month. Replaced again, again passed about a month. After the 3rd battery change, it became clear that something was wrong. Having checked the "dead" batteries, I realized that they were still alive. After consulting the nearest blogosphere, I found out that such mechanisms are not repaired and are easier to throw out. I scored until one day in Ikea I saw their cheapest model of watch and took it in my hands to see what kind of mechanism there was.
Here they are - the simplest plastic case and plastic glass, paper dial

Suddenly, the very same mechanism was installed in them, and on the sticker there was a mysterious inscription "Made in Belarus" = D

The price of the unit turned out to be something in the region of 250 rubles, I grabbed them gladly and rushed home to dissect. Swapped mechanisms. It is not difficult - the arrows are carefully removed from the stem, after which it is necessary to squeeze the latches a little and remove the mechanism from the case, assemble in the reverse order. The Ikeevsky version is disassembled in general in 1 minute, there is not even a single bolt there.

So, I assembled, put used batteries in both copies. Surprisingly, both went. I thought that when removing the arrows, he could fix something inside the old mechanism. But after about a month of work on a second-hand battery, the electricity zhor was drawn again.

The "repaired" Belarusian watch ran normally, the battery was not consumed earlier than it should have been. But I wouldn’t be me, if that’s where it all ended happily. Suddenly the watch refused to function in its natural upright position. Only horizontally! At the same time, the mechanism spins, but something has moved away somewhere. I shook and knocked them, no, they don't. Then I decided on an autopsy.

The autopsy was unsuccessful. The gears all got enough sleep and I spent the next half hour installing them back. At the same time, I did not notice any defects by eye. The engine was running, everything was turning. And in the assembled state, the watch still did not go.

Then for the 3rd time I went to the store for a watch and bought it. At home, I unpacked, there was another mechanism inside! I'm depressed. On the other hand, maybe there really were a lot of defects according to the previous model. Reassembled, hung up, everything works. The move is accurate.

And only then I suddenly googled ... rukalitso.zhpg

Much has come to light. To begin with, all mechanisms are universal, i.e. have the same size, but differ in the length of the stem on which the arrows are installed. This was done to allow the use of dials of different thicknesses, and it can also be provided for fastening to the dial with a nut for the stem. I even recognized one of the most common models of Chinese movements - this is JL 6262. Chinese shops sell it for about 300 rubles apiece during the crisis. in pre-crisis times, the price was quite affordable. Here, I did not find anything except wholesale by boxes. One article advertised the GrandTime sweep mechanism in comparison with this JL 6262. For it, the scrap rate is stated to be ≤0.05%, and for JL it is ≥4%, and the accuracy is 1-2 seconds per day. I wonder what percentage of the marriage I got ... For working mechanisms, the operating time from an alkaline battery should be approximately 8-11 months and the service life of the mechanism should be about 6 years. Somehow not very much. I think many people still have Soviet clocks with discrete movements at home, which have been clinking for 30 years.

Thinking about the use of carcasses from Ikeev watches, I, without any special illusions, ordered a mechanism from the Chinese for testing that cost less than $ 1 (this is already with delivery), but with a longer stem under the nut (you can hit the hand made). And not so long ago, this mechanism reached me.

The quality of the plastic is normal. For such a price, I generally expected some kind of horror. Suggest to use alkaline batteries

Stem thread

Plugged a truly Chinese mechanism into the IKEE watch

The first surprise - the mechanism was powered by an old battery, which I was about to throw away. But here is a slightly longer stem not completely retracted under the glass. When you lightly press on the glass from the outside, the second hand stalled. I got out of the position not completely inserting the glass into the latches. And so it keeps pretty strong. So if you are going to change the mechanism, check if the length is enough for you.
The second surprise - the accuracy of this movement turned out to be higher than that of my Casio wristwatches!

Install a metal hanging loop if needed. The loop is installed on a special protrusion ("patch") at the base of the stem. The protrusion is part of the body of the mechanism, so the load is applied to the entire body and not to the stem.

The weight of the watch when using a metal hinge should not exceed 10 kg.
For plastic hinges no more than 5 kg.

Install the sealing rubber washer. The sealing washer prevents the mechanism from rotating on the product. It also removes unnecessary "stress" when tightening the nut tightly.

Pass the movement stem through the hole in the dial. I must say about the thickness of the dial ...

The diameter of the hole for the stem in the dial is 8 mm.
And when using a curly nut 9 mm.

Install the brass washer

Tighten the nut.

It is not necessary to tighten the nut too tight. Overtightening the nut can damage the mechanism or affect the accuracy.

Set the hour and minute hands to the minute.

To install the arrows, it is most convenient to use a tube of a suitable diameter. A simple ballpoint pen might work for this.

The hour and minute hands should be set at 12 o'clock. Otherwise, the time will not be displayed correctly.

Install the second hand.

When installing the second hand when pressing, hold the mechanism from the back side (shown in the photo). Thus, so as not to squeeze out the pin on which the second hand sits.

Figured nut

The curly nut is used for two reasons:
1. Some people find it appearance more accurate. Indeed, it looks more compact than a standard washer and nut.
2. A shaped nut allows you to "increase" the height of the threaded part by 1-2 mm. This becomes relevant when, for some reason, these millimeters are not enough. For example, there is no mechanism with a suitable thread height.

As seen in the picture, dial thickness when using a curly nut (right), it can be larger than when using a regular nut when installed on a mechanism with the same thread height. The only limitation on the amount of "build-up" is the fit of the hour hand - it is necessary that the curly nut does not interfere with the rotation of the hand.

The diameter of the hole in the dial for a figured nut = 9 mm (1 mm more than for a regular nut), because it goes deeper into the dial.

The stem has two parts:
Threaded part- for fastening the mechanism to the watch. A nut is screwed onto it.
Minute- to install arrows on it.

Threaded part

There are different "heights" for different dial thickness.
Below are the options for mechanisms with different threaded parts. You can experiment and find the height you need. (here you can pick up the stock ...)

Stem selection for dial thickness:

Thread height: 6 mm

Distribution of thread space:

Sealing
washer: 1 mm

Washer and nut: 1 mm

Remaining space for the dial: 3 mm

Available stocks:

Items 1-10 of 14.

View	Name	Minute type	Overall height (mm)	Thread height (mm)	Max. dial thickness (mm)
	S1 12/6	S1	12	6	3
	S1 16/9	S1	16	9	7
	S1 18/12	S1	18	12	10
	S1 Seiko 13 / 5.2	S1 Seiko	13	5.2	3.2
	S1 Seiko 15 / 6.7	S1 Seiko	15	6.7	4.7
	S1 Seiko 17/9	S1 Seiko	17	9	7
	S2 15 / 6.7	S2	15	6.7	4.7
	S2 17 / 8.7	S2	17	8.7	6.7
	S2 22 / 11.7	S2	22	11.7	10.7
	S2 23 / 14.7	S2	23	14.7	13.7

I recently talked about. Now I would like to talk about wall.

Now, you probably can't find a house that doesn't have a watch made in China or India. Wall Clock- this is an element of home comfort that practically does not change its appearance. The only thing that wears out in them is the mechanism.

And it often happens that after several years of operation, the appearance is in perfect condition, and the watch either stops working, or rushes and lags behind, or, which is typical for smooth-running mechanisms, literally starts to "eat up" the batteries.

It is a pity to throw out such a watch, especially if it had a high purchase price or is expensive as a memory. The most reasonable solution is to repair the wall clock with your own hands and replace the mechanism.

In the given example, we will replace the mechanism by replacing it from another (new, but barbarously broken) clock.

By the way, at any time point you can buy such a watch literally for a penny. At the same time, the advantage lies in the fact that if the hands from the "native" watch do not fit in diameter, you can safely install the hands from the broken ones.

We unscrew the bolts of the fastening strip holding the glass.

So, we went through the first part. A little bit of tools. The places where the instrument grows was explored. We have prepared a workplace for ourselves. And in general - while they were doing all this - they walked well in the air and got to know the hot spots and surroundings better. The first part involved quite a lot of movement and attentiveness during the campaigns - it was necessary to SEARCH. What to look for - FSE! Everything that is interesting and, in our not yet trained view, is something that might be useful and unusual for us. It is somewhat reminiscent of plushness. What is the result:

Tool. Which? First, screwdrivers, then tweezers. To them - a binocular magnifying glass, brushes, Petri dishes and needles. We got some oil. Yes, even for sewing machines... Well, there is no other. We believe that we have nothing else. NO. Everything. We get by with this primitive set. But without it - you should not start.

We collected carcasses of hours.

Different. The old ones. Wrist. They just recruited mechanisms - for spare parts.

They took indiscriminately, everything that is cheaper than the cost of half a pack of cheap cigarettes. This is their price. Half a pack of Belomor or Prima. Trolleybus fare. They shouldn't cost more. Regardless of the state - whole-broken. There are only two criteria. The first one is mandatory - not rusty. The second - desirable - to be assembled (all parts are in place) - regardless of the intactness. Trash. We will sort. What do we have?

Women's wrist.

- Star. The old ones. Barrel-shaped mechanism, caliber 18 mm. Allegedly in prehistoric times, the French brought to us and assembled the LIP plant. So it's all French.

- Zarya- Penza Watch Factory

-Gull- standard small mechanisms, old enough, but tenacious

- Glory- newer mechanisms

Many other names. All Soviet. THE USSR. Looks like the state cared about the working class - it produced watches. So that they are not late for work. Probably.

Mens wrist watch.

- Victory... Moscow. Lighthouse. Many watches were produced under these names. We're not talking about watches. About mechanisms.

There are basically two types of mechanisms.

- "high" mechanism - for example 1MCHZ - "Moscow". Central second hand. Most of the watches were assembled on its base - up to the famous "Sport". They stopped when the crown was pulled. Erzats stopwatch. Older type of mechanism. We do not name the technical caliber - it makes no sense. It is still impossible to order parts for the caliber.

- “low” mechanism is more modern. Side second hand.

And in the first and in the second case, different factories produced a bunch of modifications of mechanisms - with improvements, simplifications, ras. Suggestions. There were also a bunch of exterior finishes. Satisfied the discerning consumer.

In addition, there is a complete rainbow of other watch movements:

Slava - 2 types of mechanisms, self-winding and non-self-winding. On the Internet somewhere it was indicated - the prototype of LIP-T-15. Again the French.

Complicated watch

With alarm clock

Chronometer

For the blind

Our task is to learn how to disassemble and assemble. Then everyone will go their own way. One will only disassemble. Another will collect 50% and then - as annoyance or peacefully throw it into the trash (usually habits - vodka-dancing will overpower), others - out of anger that it does not work - to beat on the anvil with a hammer. Still others will calmly disassemble it again, put it off for a couple of days and try again. This is a normal form of behavior for such an unusual hobby - fine mechanics.

Let's start with a simpler direction - men's wristwatches. They are bigger than women. They can be seen better without a microscope. An example is a "low" Victory. It is the simplest for us. “High” is harder for the first try. The clock circuit is basically identical for all single-platinum watches. Therefore, you just need to understand once and remember a few is enough simple schemes... For the first trainings - just sketch what we are analyzing.

Frame:

Back cover.

There are several types of back covers. All the difference is in the manner of closing.

Slamming. A distinctive feature - usually upon close examination, you can find a flat, into which a knife is driven in order to open it with a strong pressure. In modern electronic consumer goods, a similar lid is very often practiced, but with grooves, as it were, for unscrewing - a good joke. If you don't know, then at least shoot yourself - you can't unscrew it.

Flat in the ring of glass. This is not a cover.

A more modern solution is a ledge in the lid.

And a knife just drives in here

Screw, with a screw ring or with a thread on the cover itself.

Or so - along the edge of the lid, you can see the edges.

We unscrew the first option either with the largest tailor's scissors (they are more rigid) or with the sharpened jaws of an old caliper. At flea markets, keys of this kind can often lie in the ruins.

The corporate key (bought in the most ordinary store for modelers - models of steam locomotives, cars, etc. in Germany) looks like this.

A rather rare option in Soviet watches is the bayonet. It turns at a small angle and opens.

Bayonet lock on the lid

So the clock was opened. What we see is dirt.

A lot of dirt. We immediately say that we will not deal with a rusty watch. There is no chance. Nothing can be done - everything must be changed. Putting a new one or sharpening a new one. It's too early for us.

Main parts of the mechanism

I - balance.

II - Wheel system

III - mainspring (maybe two - in Glory)

IV - ratchet - they can also be of several types.

What we do first - while the mechanism is in the case - we lower the mainspring. If the head is preserved in the carcass and can be rotated (it is worn to the ground), we try to turn it slightly towards the plant and look at the ratchet. It should turn slightly and slip a couple of teeth. This is what we need - with a needle we support it in the retracted state and without jerking we let the crown turn and dissolve the spring by slightly releasing the crown between the fingers.

Immediately place at least 2 Petri dishes in front of us. Or white plates or flat-bottomed dishes. Diameter 15-20 cm. I use Petri dishes. They are easier to cover during breaks.

We take out the crown. To do this, press the retainer with a needle.

We take out the mechanism from the case. Sometimes this is done towards the back cover. In our case, the opposite is true. The ring with glass is removed and the mechanism is taken out to the side of the dial.

Removing the arrows

Minute is generally simple - yes even with a screwdriver

Hour and second are a bit of an adventure. Tool - a piece of the relay was torn out (there was some kind of electric relay - there is material on contact groups exactly what we need - hard and thin. Bent - and there is the tool we need)

We turn off the balance. The size (caliber) of the screwdriver must match the size of the screw.

The screw was unscrewed and how can this whole assembly be lifted? - and it usually has special grooves into which you can stick a screwdriver and separate the balance plate from the base.

We take the balance like this.

We put everything gradually into Petri dishes.

We unscrew the screws of the mainspring block. There is one trick in the watch - if the screw has many grooves, then it has a left-hand thread.

Under the dial there is a wheel assembly for the hands (I) and the assembly for winding and moving the head from the winding position to the position of moving the hands (II) (it is scientifically called remontuar). We disassemble.

We remove the minute tribe. This is the only node in a watch where effort is required. We pull hard enough. If you jumped off - we will repeat. It always comes off with effort. The main thing is not to be afraid.

When disassembling the switch assembly (remontuar) - special attention to the spring.

She has the opposite property - to click and fly away in an indefinite direction. Against this, a simple technique - cover (press) all of it slightly just with your finger and carefully with a needle from under your finger "snap out"

We put everything in a Petri dish

Now for the longest and most accurate. Washing.

We take a shallow bowl. We pour gasoline there. And mine. With a brush and toothpicks. To shine. So that no dirt remains.

For small mechanisms - a squirrel brush. Harder. For large mechanisms - alarm clocks, pocket watches - you can try soft art brushes for oil paints.

Dry: first put on a paper towel after the gasoline. I usually take a heavy piece of cardboard and put a piece of paper towel on top of it. To avoid jumping and jumping. Select napkins and towels according to the criterion - the fewer lint, the better.

Let the gasoline soak in. Let's just put it. Then we take the parts with tweezers and blow air from a rubber bulb (enema) to blow gasoline out of the holes. And so consistently all the elements of the clock that lie in a Petri dish or on an impromptu "dryer". Node by node. This is what I mean: if you unscrew the platinum and with it - 3 screws - we put them together. We consider - "this is our node". In order not to confuse screws and parts. We put them in the same places in the Petri dish. Or better in a clean cup. Old - then wash and wipe. This is if we do not intend to collect quickly. Or we collect "from the sheet" - from a napkin. But this is with a certain experience, skill and speed of work. Balance. While there is no great experience, we do not analyze it. So we shove the platinum-spiral-balance block into a bath with gasoline and just rinse it for a long time in gasoline. This is clearly wrong. It is necessary to disassemble everything, etc. - WE HAVE NO EXPERIENCE YET. We'll gut it for 5-10 hours, and then we'll look at the balance. How he understands. Read books. And do it according to wise books (if it is described in detail there).

Some note about the mainspring. We do nothing. Just wipe the outside with a napkin. We brush the teeth with a brush. We don't do anything else yet. We will have fun with disassembly, lubrication, assembly and replacement of the spring next time. No experience yet. This is difficult.

And now for more intellectual work - to collect the resulting puzzle

Everything is done in the following order:

Mainspring

Wheel system. Let's have some fun too. We placed the gears in the lower stones. They covered it with platinum, and then we need to move the upper plate with tweezers in all directions until the upper axles of the gears hit the stones. A bit dreary but doable. Sometimes you can try to help the process with a thin needle to wiggle the gears that you can reach. The basic rule is NO VIOLENCE. Everything should be done without any effort. Over time, everything by itself "clicks" into place and the plate noticeably "falls" down. The clockwork is a rather delicate thing, the efforts are very small, the losses of efforts during operation are also very small, accordingly - it cannot be assembled on tight landings - BY DEFINITION, THERE CANNOT BE. If the top plate does not sit in place, the pinion has not sat in the stones. Or, while we were all stirring, I jumped out of the bottom stone. We repeat once again - EFFORTS CANNOT BE! The criterion for correct assembly may be the following: slightly turn the barrel of the mainspring. LIGHT ONLY - All gears should start turning. This is all - almost effortlessly on the barrel.

We put in place the anchor fork

We put the balance in place.

Lubricate the stones from above - from the side of the back cover. For this we use homemade butter dosing.

We turn the mechanism over, grease all the stones from the side of the dial. Assembling the crown mechanism.

Spring. Another adventure. We press it all over with a wide screwdriver. We put the needle in place. Springs are probably the worst thing about all this work. They are jumping. And we will suffer with them a) until we train our hands and b) until we pick up the carcasses of the watches from which, without a twinge of conscience, we will carry spare parts.

They put it in place. We don't breathe. And suddenly it pops up.

We collect the wheels of arrows. The minute tribe is strongly pushed onto the pinion axle. How? Yes, what comes to hand is approximately suitable. How we shot and set. We are resting. You will have to firmly press the tribe until it clicks.

Lubricate. What is there to lubricate - if you have assembled this puzzle - have figured out - then you will also have to think about lubrication and lubricate it yourself. The basic rule is to lubricate only with oil dosage and to a minimum. All rubbing parts are lubricated. Platinum must be dry. That is why it is a notch in the stones - so that the oil does not spread beyond its limits. Do not lubricate the stones of the anchor fork. It's early. A microscope is needed.

We put the dial.

We put the mechanism in the case.

Pressing the crown lock, we put it in place. We start. We enjoy. MADE!!! YOURSELF !!!

Bogdan Yasinetskiy