Designing male jeans pattern. Pattern of men's jeans
How to sew jeans?
Jeans have always been, there will be very comfortable and fashionable clothing. Agree, these trousers made of denim - clothes for all times, ages, for people of various social groups and wealth. And the maternity holders, and at the beginner needlewoman, often there is a desire to sew them on their own. There are many reasons for the set - a non-standard figure, there is no sufficient amount for the purchase, but just the exclusive model was born in my head and I really want to implement it. And then the question arises - how to sew jeans. Experienced seamstas claim that it is necessary to sew the same as ordinary pants. In this article, we will try to give the most necessary recommendations on the sewing of denim trousers, they will help you cope with this difficult task.
Fabric selection
Your new tremendous jeans begin, oddly enough, in the fabric store. If you looked at cheap, soft, thin fabric, then you need to understand that one season will turn out for one season. By the way, learn how to sew jeans yourself, it is best for such a fabric. If what happens is not so - it's not a pity. And if you have already experienced sewing works, then choose the tissue better. Jeans should be dense, with bright color. If you have full figure, it is better to choose stretch. For very thin girls, a dense not stretching fabric is suitable, it will give some volume figure. For children's jeans, choose a dense, but soft fabric so that the child is not at odds nothing with active movement.
How much to buy fabrics
This question is the easiest when sewing trousers. Measure a centimeter ribbon the distance from your waist to the floor. Then add 20 cm for it. This is the length of a piece of fabric that you need to buy in the store if the width of the fabric is 150 cm. In this case, the pockets will be placed between the patterns. If you have a very magnificent figure, it is best to make a pattern first, then decompose it on the floor and to measure how much fabric can leave. Do not buy no more than more fabric without fitting, it is often expensive to buy even extra 10 cm, and then, why will they roll in your bag with the rest?
Materials
If you sew a baby warm jeans, then buy a lining tissue. In addition to the fabric, you will need to buy a flieseline for a garbage belt, an adhesive tape for treating the bottom of the trouser, a lock-zipper, one button on the belt (or two, depending on the invented model), lining fabric for pockets (better cotton), and decorative elements ( Buttons, labels, pr.) You still need two types of threads, to tone fabric and finishing, if you make finishing lines, which, as a rule, are on all jeans.
Pattern on old jeans
This is very important momentBecause the correct pattern of jeans is 70% of your success and guarantee that you will wear a comfortable thing with pleasure. I propose to take advantage of the excellent advice of those who have already sewed for yourself and their children. Take old jeans in which you are very convenient to walk, write them out, reveal, it will be your perfect patterns. You can even move these patterns on dense paper or polyethylene tight film. In this case, you can use the pattern of the trousers many times, unless, of course, do not change the shape. If it is a pity to break your favorite pants, then you can simply fold on the seam and circle on paper. It turns out not so accurate patternBut still she will be your own and it will be easy to fit on the figure if the hand is drogling when drawing patterns. Very convenient way to make patterns for children's pants, denim overalls.
Pattern from scratch
I wonder how to sew jeans if there are no old trousers? Prepare a large sheet of paper, ruler, centimeter tape, pencil, marker, scissors. All this will be needed to create your own individual pattern. First you need to remove the main measurements. The waist circle should be measured by the narrow line on your waist, or along the line, where the pants will end (in the case of an inflated waist). In the diagram, this measure is denoted from. The second important mercury is the grumps of the hips on, they are made by the highest points of the buttocks and the widest place of the thighs. Next, the knee girth is measured, the ribbon is paved in the middle of the knee. Now go down and measure the width of the bottom line of the trousers, it will no longer depend on the figure, but from the model. The length of the side seam dB is measured from the waist line to the bottom line. Sun seat height is the distance from the waist line to the so-called side fold. Look at the finished your pants this measure, on the front trousers from the waist, through the zipper and to the inner point where all 4 pieces of trousers are sewn. And now from this point of the highlighted fold, measure the distance to the floor, it will be the length of the DSh. There are 3 more measurements that need to be counted using the simplest mathematics. It is VC (height of the knee), it is equal to half a dsh minus one tenth of the length of the step. In short, it looks like this: VK \u003d ½ dsh-1/10 dsh. The width of the front of the front of the pants dpb \u003d ¼ is 1 cm. The width of the back of the trouser shspb \u003d ¼ + 1 cm + 1 cm for free felting.
Here you can find a pattern of patterns, it is indicated wherever and what measurements you need to use, you only have to substitute your values \u200b\u200band draw a pattern on paper: 
Cutting
Now you need to fold the purchased fabric in half (on the equity thread) and decompose patterns on it. Please note that the rear and front part should be putting the "currency", then there will be a place to exhibit pockets between them, and from the smooth edge it is necessary to measure the strips for the belt. There must be two, the length is from plus 5 cm on the smell, plus 2 cm on the seams. Width 4 cm plus 2 cm on the seams (1 cm on each side). It is necessary to paint with sharp partner scissors. Patterns to attach to tissue with pins, chalk to circle the details of the trousers, adding 1 cm from each edge to the seams.
Sewing
Studying how to sew jeans with your own hands, you have to clearly imagine how they look. If you planned a decorative line, then start sewing from the side seams. First we flash threads into the tone, then they start both web in one edge, to the rear canvas, then with the front side we put the line with the threads of another color. Step-by-step seams are flashing only inner seam. We process seams overlock. Then we give the flazelin belt, we feed it first from the inside, then decorative threads from the face, we make a knotted button, we proceed a loop, sew a button. The overhead rear pockets need to be adjusted, rejuvenate, strain the top of the typewriter, pinch pins to the right place and stop decorative threads. The bottom of the trousers must be adjusted, sneaking the adhesive ribbon and sunmove. All seams must be well rejuvenated with a strong steam, because the seams on jeans are thick and amenable to molding with the help of iron is difficult. If you want to decorate jeans with rivets and labels, then it's time to do it, because after that your jeans can be treated!
On the eve of February 23, we decided to offer you, dear women, pamper your loved ones with something special! And we suggest you sew these stylish men's trousers in the denim style along our pattern. Simple such pattern simply enough. Moreover, from which it is seded, unlike, quite thin. You can easily perform everything on a regular sewing machine, as well as the necessary snacks.
Fig. 1. Modeling men's jeans
Jeans modeling
On the pattern of gear jeans, remove the fold in the bar. Apply the lines of the side pocket and burlap pocket. Burlap pocket and cutting barbell to move separately on the tracing. In the middle of the transfer to make an increase on a width of 3-4 cm and a length of 14 cm. On the pattern of the back of men's trousers, remove the fallout in the bar. To hold the coquette line, postponing on the side and middle seam, respectively, 5 and 7 cm. Pocket to draw separately on the tracing.
Pattern of men's jeans: cutting
From the main fabric carve:
- Front Half of Men's Jeans - 2 Details
- Rear Half of Men's Jeans - 2 Details
- Cutting bar of jeans - 2 details
- The belt of men's jeans is 1 part of 8 cm wide in the finished form 4cm and the length of the upper cut of the trousers plus 10 cm.
From lining x / b cloth carve:
- Pocket burlap, whole-circuit with barrel - 2 details
- Burk Pocket without barrel - 2 details
Points for seams - 1.5 cm, pulp at the bottom - 4 cm.
From time to time it is possible to hear the question: and it is possible to leave jeans at home and how to sew jeans yourself. I will answer: it is possible because the technological process of making jeans can be considered simple. In many ways it is very similar to the sewing workwear. The main difficulty here is what has to deal with very dense and thick cloth. This task is solved by the use of small mechanization specialists. For some reason, not simple sewing factories are engaged in the manufacture of jeans, and the factory special for the production of overalls from thick tissues. But, the requirements for appearance, aesthetic design of jeans, tightens the technical process and, as a result, the price of finished products increases. Again, it is still possible to reduce the price permits mass production using modern technological equipment. But agree that sometimes there is a need for a personal sewing of jeans. This is not uncommon is called or need, at a time when it is unrealistic to choose the necessary size, or it is easy to have an extraordinary model. But small firms do not have peculiar equipment, and sometimes I have to hear what to do jeans in low technical equipment unrealistic. Perhaps, as well as quite! Probustin, moreover, tailoring jeans at home. Low tailor qualification is the main trouble. In case the tailor does not have the ability to stack, spend and shoot the seam by two finishing lines on the main equipment, it does not cope with this task and on the most modern machine. The story of the tailing of jeans has more than 100 years, but did the XXI century equipment used? I do not try to prove that there are no double chain stitch cars, steady-raised cars. They are very necessary, but they only facilitate the work of the tailor and reduce the operation time. Let's still see how to sew jeans own hands, at least in general. The whole process has several steps (stages).
The first move is the cutting of jeans. What is unusual here? Nothing. Laying and exchange lecal, after that cut out the details. How to build a drawing (pattern) and make a pattern can be read on the domestic blog in the article "How to Circling Jeans." Jeans are now made from a variety of materials, be something tight Japanese denim from Okayama, or a thin summer cat. It is worth noting that the crate of jeans while maintaining Selvija on the side seam, requires an increased flow of fabric with a roll of one pair of jeans. Based on this, such a cut is appropriate only with mass, at least a small sewing, and it goes without saying, such jeans will not be able to be curved. But, as the saying says, "hunting will be in the forest," - is it worth a sorry for some extra 50-60 cm fabric for "like a loved one." Choosing as at any time, only for you. Maybe someone will seem funny to someone, but the first thing is to process small details - bumps, in order not to look for these narrow and long loskutka. It goes without saying best Method The manufacture of the loop on the specialist, they are already, and the strings are perfectly smooth, but in the event that there is no possibility, it is possible to do both for common and with one crushed slice, followed by fixing the double finishing line. Neither appearance Jeans nor the quality level will not affect this.
Rear halves of jeans
The next step is the second in a row - process the rear halves of jeans. We process the rear pockets of jeans and customize them. The jeans coquette is applied to the rear half and reinsured. After that, the middle seam of jeans is processed. At this stage, different sewing machines will be able to be used. It is dictated by a model of the product, or on the contrary, the model is possible, taking into account the technological equipment. More detailed how rear halves of jeans are processed, using the minimum set of equipment, it is possible to take a look here.
Third move
The third move is the front halves. At this stage, the side pocket in jeans is processed. The right front pocket in jeans, in most cases, has a fixed fine pocket, referred to as the clock or pocket for trivia. The fastener is processed in jeans, and the connection and a baking sheet on a bunk slice with the installation of zigzag lines on the gulfic. The pocket models will be able to be different, in addition to this, the fastener is possible both on zipper and on buttons.
Fourth
The machines will be able to be used both two-chigolous and single-chain, special differences in the technological course will not be. Watch more detailed here. The fourth move is the penultimate. First handle stepper seams in jeans, stristering the finishing line. Step side seams in jeans, fix their finishing line at the level of pockets. Upper slice covering the belt, low jeans process the suture of the screen. Plugs on the jeans belt (triples) are customized with a thick zigzag line, and on the belt we pierce the loop. We clean from the technological sewing garbage, remove the non-cut threads in the finishes of the seams. To look in more detail how to do it at home - perhaps here. The fifth is the last. Installation of iron fittings: rivets of pockets on jeans and buttons on the belt (from time to time buttons on the clasp, depending on the model). For this, it will be useful, not counting the most metallophurity, there are still some additional devices, for example, a manual desktop press.
Participant
From: Lipetsk
Thank you said: 12 times
If you have experience to make patterns yourself, then on this site there is a topic "Building trouser Evgenia from Milan," there she kindly suggested a book on Italian Cry.
http://club.season.ru/index.php?showtopic\u003d2348
Among other things interesting, there is in this book and part for men, there are jeans there. If a male is quite standard, then the pattern of the trouser is just the perfect (herself tried), now at the moment she also seen jeans to her spouse (sit exclusively).
And if there is no experience in building patterns yourself, then also do not despair. I had these trousers were the first experience in self-study. Before that, only on finished patterns sewed. And nothing really happened. And if there are problems with the translation, then the clever Alexandrinka, in the same topic lays out transfers. She already has an order for jeans, so track the topic and everything will be with you. Good luck to you.
Participant
Thanks said: 0 times
Participant
Thanks said: 0 times
hello.
i want to sew my pants to my young man, so that in them and in the city can be walking, and in nature, trendy, very well sitting, models are about as in sports stores or .. well, in general, youth pants
on early autumn
i take the basis - Pattern Classic Trousers
how can I change it?
- Do not find out the bottom.
and yet ..
where to search sketches and pattern patterns of pants?
Now such models M.B. As bented, and more free and the foundation should be built depending on the chosen Silhouette IMHO:
View models in the photo can be in the article
g. Atelier No. 2 "Luxury Sportswear" (Request it through Privat in Lullyshik, she will send you)
There is still the subject:
SOS! Men's Fashion (Ideas, Stamps?) Creation
Building patterns and modeling can be viewed in Muller's lessons (w. "Atelier"). Find the lessons you need, downloading the material and ask it in Lullyshik:
http://season.ru/kachat/
Reference material
· Date: 8.05.09 The content of class lessons in Muller. 0.02MB
For example, there is:
g. Atelier №2 Stylish men's pants (there is a construction of the basic basis of narrow trousers and trousers with folds at the belt)
Also, as an option, you can see Vilara, M.B. There is a CD with patterns of men's trousers, you can ask in the subject:
Email patterns from Vilar
————————————————
You designated your skills in sewing - like amateur. Previously, was the sewing pants? With the features of sewing male familiar?
See this topic from the beginning and still on the sewing Bermud (I remember, there were useful references):
http://club.season.ru/index.php?showtopic\u003d380&hl\u003d
Materials on WTO trousers can download:
http://season.ru/kachat/1_odegda/
Curra and sewing technique
· Manufacturing technology of men's trousers 4.9 MB material from the textbook "Seamstress Top Upper Men's Clothing". Format.doc Lily.
· WTO Trousers with explanations and drawings (M-L Courses) 0.2MB Elenaka
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He has a standard figure or ready-made - bad sit? If the figure is non-standard - it is important to consider when building a pattern where to take the construction - there is at the beginning of the topic.
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However, in jeans, it does not have such an important value as in the classical pants IMHO - the conservation of the other
Sketches of attached images
Participant
From: Kaliningrad
Thanks said: 2 times
Soon on the forum there will be an announcement of another. Atelier №12, it has construction of men's jackets
There was such a lesson Croy on Muller, but I'm not sure that there are men's clothing (you can ask him through private in Lullyshik):
"Atelier" №11 2002
Clothing for sports and recreation
Good evening!
At the request of T.V. I tell about my first experience in creating jeans for her husband.
Built along Voronin. I made adjustments on the sides (in the construction they turned out to be strongly rounded) and for flat buttocks.
The coquette and pockets are peeped on finished jeans. Rear molds are distributed in the rear and side seams. So that the rear central seam with the erased was in the middle, shifted one half relative to another by 2 mm.
Whatever the pockets were the same impose a template from cardboard and I started the allowance.
Straight lines do not turn out yet, so used a feet for a secret trouser liner.
How the lightning is sewn too studied on finished jeans, and then just repeated.
The lower part of the sewn is sewn while sharping the belt with trousers, and the upper sewn with a foot and a seam for sewing buttons.
____
They came to her husband wide. And too much asks to remove in zipper, but since the fabric is velveteen, then all the strips will go. Therefore, I left everything as it is. And they wonderfully approached the mother-in-law.
The picture with the details increases.
In the photo, trousers are not yet deployed and the bottom does not fit.
Post has been edited helenzap - Jan 16 2011, 01:50
Participant
From: Rudny, Kazakhstan
Thanks said: 0 times
Girls, I sew my guys jeans without problems. My son alone only recognizes them. I am building on Muller-very much. The last construction took from the 5th Atelier Room for 2010. There is an adjacent silhouette. Squeezed under jeans (coquette, pockets) and forward! Tomorrow I will try to catch the ditony and sfotkat the result.
This is the construction. There is no pulling on the front half.
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Electronic pattern "Pants men's denim classic" 52-60
Dimensions: 52-60 (the buyer receives all gradation)
File format: PDF, Patterns are made in a natural amount without allowances on the seams.
The level of complexity of sewing: medium, as the denim classic involves the processing of pockets and the trouser clasp
The lecturer "Trousers of Men's Denim Classic" includes patterns of anterior half (PP) and rear halves (zP) with a coquette (Fig. 1), and besides this part of the "cut bar" for PP and patch pocket for ZP. Patterns of the belt and cuttings are not included in the set, as it is a strip of fabric. The calculation of the sizes of the belt is described below.
The maximum tissue consumption with a width of 140 cm and when the length is maintained, will be 155 - 160 cm. For a more accurate calculation, it is necessary to adjust the length of PP patterns and perform a preliminary layout of lecop taking into account technological allowances and small parts (Fig. 2).
For sewing denim classics, only dense denim fabrics are suitable.
How to Cry Men's Pants "Denim Classic"
Before you go to the opening, consider how to calculate the sizes of the belt and which points should be made with a loaf of denim classics for individual tailoring.
Belt Width for Denim Trousers in Study will be 10 cm, Length
St + 10 cm,
where st is half a waist. See more about the notation of the measure in the article by the Farm of Olkhovskaya "How to remove measurements"
Slings are cut out of the remains of the fabric last. It is a strip of tissue with a width of 2 - 2.5 cm.
Watch Video Master Class on Technique Croy - How to Cry Small Details Trouser
As for the allowances (Fig. 2), they are exactly such as with a string of ordinary trousers:
side and step-by-step seams, seams of coaching coquetki to zp, login line in PP pocket, battery supply - 1 cm;
on the waist, I do not add batter;
at the bottom - 2.5 - 3 cm;
on a bowl of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and a protruding allowance for a bay 4 to 16 cm in a straight line of a bunk cut;
and on the seat cut, considering that we have an individual sewing, it is better to make an expanding allowance from 0.5 to 3 cm.
Pay attention to the detail of the coquette: on the seat slice - 3 cm, there is no allowance on the waist, the rest are 1 cm.
For the PMP pocket on the line of entry, add 2 to 2.5 cm on the seam and by the rest of the sections of 1.5 - 2 cm.
And do not forget to immediately make a cardboard template for rooting the pocket of the SP.
Now consider the cutting of Dotchka zp. As can be seen in fig. 2, ZP trousers does not pass completely into the width of the fabric, so you have to cut off the fragment of the pattern and make a subsidy.
At the same time, it is important that the seam length of the Dotchka does not exceed 18 cm and to take into account the allowance for feeding the dotchka to the SP.
And the most important point: the equity thread in PP and ZP should be located along the details, that is, strictly perpendicular to the Niza line.
Pylon in fig. 2 cut completely from the main fabric to simplify the sewing pocket of the "cut bar".
Sewing denim trousers is considered simpler than trousers "with arrows" from costume fabrics, but also has its own nuances. Consider a simplified processing option suitable for home sewing machines and not too experienced tailors.
Then, we feed the subsidy to the SP, we climb and take up the allowances, after which we fold both sn face to face and, imposing the pattern of the SP, we have both rear halves.
The coquette to the zp is also applied, sowing the seam allowance up, we take together and perform finishing lines with a double needle.
Then you should decide whether you will lay the finishing line along the side or step seams. In the classic jeans of the factory production, the SECRET goes to step by step, but in Indpochiv we can do everything that we want, especially if you need to care a fragile domestic machine.
In general, we process side and stepped seams, not forgetting about the iron, and proceed to the execution of the clasp.
When the clashes are ready, proceed to the processing of a denim belt.
Pay attention to the overall sequence of sewing characteristic of the individual tailoring: the belt consists of two halves and the seam seam has not yet been processed, but only raised. Such a processing will allow us not only to carefully perform fitting and tightly put jeans on the figure, but also to easily alter them if the customer recovers or hesitates.
The fitting is performed when only seams of the seat and bottom are not processed.
The seats are carefully shut down on the fitting and steps twice with a slight stretching of the seam for strength. After the stratification, you can fought it and stop the double needle or if you want to guard the typewriter.
The bottom can be processed into the bending with an open slice, again, in order to guard the machine. That is, to spend, adjust once and pave the finishing line.
Citigned 20 times
Liked: 4 users
rossnayward.
I doubt that I'll ever decide on tiating jeans, but let it be a description of building patterns.
Women jeans, as a rule, a very tight fit in a figure in the field of hips and waist, narrower downward book, so increases for fite freedom when building patterns of jeans These are given than when building the base patterns of standard female trousers.
Building technique patterns of jeansAs when building standard female trousers.
Patty jeans. Click, slices to enlarge
Patty jeans. Click to enlarge
Patting jeans
Measurements required for building patterns of jeans
Waist circle (from)
High Country (OB)
Knee girth (OK)
Length of jeans for side seam (dB) - 106 cm
The height of the seating (from the waist line to the sum-fodder fold) (Sun) - 26.5 cm
Step Length (DSh) (from Side Floor Flood)
Estimated values \u200b\u200brequired for building jeans pattern
The height of the knee (VC) (1/2 of the length of the minus 1/10 step length) - 31.8 cm
The width of the front halves of jeans (SPPB) (1/4 of minus 1 cm) 24 cm
The width of the rear halves of jeans (SHspb) (1/4 of the plus 1cm plus 0-1 cm for fishery) 26cm
How to shoot the measure
Measurements should be made, tightly turning the tape around the body, preferably in underwear.
From - measured by the finest torso
On - measured on the protruding points of the buttocks, given all the bulges (the area "Golife"), the maximum amount of hips
DB - measured by side from the waist line to the floor
Sun - Measure sitting on a chair - From the waist line, it is strictly modally omitted by a samstimeter tape to the surface of the seat
Building the pattern of jeans
Measiets (size 46) 1/2 1/4
From (Waist Circle) - 76 cm 38 19
About (hip circle) - 100 cm 50 25
SCN (Niza width) - 32-34 cm 17 8.5
DB (side length) - 106 cm
Sun (seat height) - 26.5 cm
DSh (step length: dB minus Sun) - 79.5 cm
VK (knee height: 1/2 dsh minus 1/10 dsh) - 31.8 cm
SPPB (the width of the front half of jeans: 1/4 o -1 cm) - 24 cm
Szpb (width of the rear halves of jeans: 1/4 about + 1cm + 0-1 cm Add freeness of fishery) - 26cm
Building Front Half Jeans Pattern
Building start with front halves of female trousers.
1 Step Building: Pattle Jeans
In the upper left corner, retreating some distance from the edge, put the point A.
We carry out the vertical and horizontal line. Up from the point A vertically lay 1 cm (pitch lift, taking into account the bulges of the thighs than the convex of the thigh, the greater value it is necessary to postpone from 0.5 to 1.5 cm). We put the point B.
2 Step Building: Pit Jeans
From the point B down the vertical line lay down 26.5 cm (seat height (Sun), we put the point V.
VC - 31.8 cm - knee height.
BN - the length of female trousers on the side - 106cm.
NN1 - 3-4cm - Reducing the length of jeans depending on the model. An extension can be made in the same way.
BB1 - the line of the hips - 8cm (1/10 semi-rapid thighs + 3 cm).
Conduct horizontal lines from points B1, B, K, H1.
B1B2 - 24cm - the width of the front of the jeans.
B2B3 - 6cm - the width of the front half of the jeans, is calculated by the formula 1/10 of the semi-rapid thighs plus 0 - 0.5 cm.
Conduct perpendicular through the point B2 - Points A1 and C.
3 Step Building: Pattle Jeans
Cut B1B3 split in half, point B4.
H1N2 \u003d B1V4. The front half of the jeans arrows is carried out through points B4 and H2 to the waist line (points A2 and K2).
H2H3 and H2N4 - 1/4 The width of the nose trousers minus 0.5 cm.
At a right angle to the bottom line, it is cut for the segments of H3P and H4P1 equal to 4-8cm. (Note: the bottom of jeans is easier to process if the sides and step lines are perpendicular to the niza line, at least on the width of the bending bundle).
4 Step Building: Pattern Jeans
Connect the points B1P and B3P1. C1, K2, K3 points are obtained.
A1A3 - 2 cm. (Reducing talerous slice due to the displacement of the central seam line (bows line), because on the front of female trousers do not do it).
5 Step Building: Patter Jeans
From point B2 to the right to postpone 0.5 cm.
CC2 \u003d 1/2 SS1. Connect points C1S2. Conduct auxiliary line from point A3 through a point 0.5 to the line C1C2. To draw the bay line through points A3, the auxiliary point is 0.5 in a straight line, then on the lecture to the C1 point.
6 Step Build Pattern Jeans
Calculation of pulp. A3A4 \u003d 1/4 from plus 0.5 to fishery freedom. For highly fitting trousers, this increase does not do.
A4B1 \u003d ab \u003d 1-1,5 cm. Arrange the waist line on the lecture, lifting the middle seam along the waist line by 0.3 cm, as shown in the trouser drawing.
7 Step Build Pattern Jeans
Depending on the model of female trousers, you can appoint trousers in the knee area by 0-1 cm. In this case, a straight line is carried out from the knee, and up - slightly concave.
8 Step Build Pattern Jeans
Location of molding front halves of trousers. A2B1 Delim in half. Conduct perpendicular to the thigh line. Having drawn 9-10 cm long and 1.5 - 2.5 cm deep. Retire the end of the outlet to the left 0.5 cm, as shown in the trouser drawing.
Building rear halves of jeans pattern
Building the back of the back of the jeans will make up on the basis of the pattern of the front of the jeans.
9 Step Build Pattern Jeans
B4B5 - 1-2 cm (tap arrow rear halves of trousers). Connect points B5 and K1 dotted line.
B5V6 - 1/4 rear width of female trousers plus 1 cm.
10 Build Step: Pattern Jeans
Connect points g and B6. From point B6 to carry out perpendicular to the segment of GV6 up and down.
Continue the waist line and bad things left and right.
11 Build Step: Pattern Jeans
G1G2 is equal to the width of the rear side of the trousers minus 0.5-1 cm (for more pricking trousers). The line G1G2 is carried out parallel to the B6G lines equal to the SSPB minus 0.5-1 pump so that the point of G2 lay on the thighs. B5G3 \u003d B5G2.
12 Build Step: Pattern Jeans
The lines of the side and step slices are carried out in parallel at a distance of 1-2 cm, as shown in the drawing. Points are obtained K4, K5, P2, P3, H5, H6.
To spend a straight line from the point K4 through the point of G2 to the lines of the waist of jeans. Received a point T.
Connect points K5G3.
13 Build Step: Pattern Jeans
K1T \u003d K1T1 plus 2-3cm, depending on the shape of the buttocks. Connect TT1.T1T2 is 0.5-1 cm.
T2T3 is 1/4 from plus 1.5 cm (on the back of the rear halves of jeans).
14 Building Step: Draw Jeans
The length of the side cut of the back half of jeans is transferred from the front of the jeans.
Build a waist line.
15 Build Step: Pattern Jeans
Out of the back of the rear of jeans. Cut T2T3 split in half. Perpendicular to the waist lines to carry out the 9-10 cm long and 1,5 cm depth.
16 Build Step: Pattern Jeans
K5G4 - the length of the step cutting out of the back half of female trousers is equal to K3C1 minus 0-0.5 cm. Stepper seam draw a slightly concave.
Build a line of the middle seam of the rear of the jeans on the lecture.
Sew jeans with their own hands under the power of every master. But there is in this case and some difficulties. For example, to create real denim jeans from Denim, not everyone in the house will be a special technique, because ordinary sewing machines for home use simply will not be able to flash thick material, and also folded several times. But, as they say, the gol on the fiction of the cunning, and from any situation there is an output!
Danis pattern
Traditional jeans
Table of Portuguese sizes
Below you can download the archive with sheets of 3 sizes. Р-Р Define on (hip pickup): 38 \u003d 96 cm, 40 \u003d 100 cm, 42 \u003d 104 cm. Print sheets located in the archive and cut out the pattern of the desired size.
Plan of gluing sheets patterns
Download Jeans Patches:
Tip number 1. Before starting work, the fabric is definitely comprehended, dry and intend. If its composition will include elestable fibers (which is quite obvious), stroke very carefully - only with low temperature, otherwise the fabric can deform.
Tip number 2. To the pants who are stitched with their own hands, are as much as possible to real jeans, take the cuts of the denim seam. It is advisable to flash thick thread, but it will be possible if only your sewing machine is capable of supporting such a function.
Tip number 3. Another important point is lightning. It is better not to pamper and buy a high-quality and durable clasp. Cheap zippers are very short-lived and can come into disrepair after the first washing. I think you can hardly want to break trousers and sew a new one.
Tip №4. Threads for denim, at your discretion, you can select different colors, For example, gray and blue.
How to smoke jeans
Since our article about jeans, I propose to touch on the topic of rework. Very often, we have to customize the finished jeans in our growth, for sure, you have come across such a problem at least once in life. The solution seemingly one is always one - cut off unnecessary and sunmate. But this manipulation will not remain unnoticed, because the factory odd is always different from its own.
I offer two solutions, how to reduce the length and leave the progress.
First option: We simply add the trousers as shown in the photo and we flash, it will not have to cut anything.
§3. Jeans type pants
Such pants for many years are a stable assortment in youth clothing. In trousers made of denim fabrics are widely used different kinds Finishing: metal fittings, zipper, decorative blocks, buttons, buttons, emblems, color lines, etc.
Designing jeans type trousers are performed on the basis of a conventional design with some changes in building the front and rear halves to create a silhouette corresponding to the mode of fashion and a good fit on the figure. At the same time, the fence in the thighs is achieved by minimal wet-thermal treatment or without it.
To ensure the dynamics of movement with tight fit in the design of the trousers, the balance increases, the stepping and side seams are translated, the seat line is assigned (middle line). Cutter coquettes are used on the rear halves of the trousers.
In addition, step-down seam of the front half is translated towards the back to ensure the same seam configuration of both halves, which makes it easier and accelerates the technological processing and compounds of the seams in the lock. The width of the front and rear halves from the line above the knee is equalized to the bottom.
Below is an example of building trousers for youth tightly adjacent through the hips and above the knee, without pulling (folds).
Measurements for building trousers, cm:
St \u003d 41 lunch \u003d 56
Sat \u003d 50.5 lunch. Nk \u003d 40.5 (conditional value)
DB \u003d 105 shi \u003d 22
Passing to semi-coupling hips PS.B \u003d 0 cm; Pasting to the girth of the thigh by grade \u003d 6 - 7 cm; Package to girth of the hip over the knee of the resource.n.k \u003d 4
Front halves of trousers. Length of trousers (Fig. 76) tn \u003d dB + Psh \u003d 105 + 1 \u003d 106 cm.
The seating height \u003d Sat / 2 - 3 \u003d 52/2 - 3 \u003d 23 cm.
The level of the thighs of the yab \u003d 6 cm (constant number). BN / 2 knee height; Height over the knee 7 - 15 cm.
The width of the front half at the level of the hips B1B2 \u003d 0.5SB \u003d 0.5 x 50.5 \u003d 25.2 cm.
Step width at the level of the hips B2B21 \u003d 0.1 (SB + PB) - 1 \u003d 0.1 x 50.5 - 1 \u003d 4 cm.
Width at the bottom of NN1 \u003d NN2 \u003d 0,5 host + 1 \u003d 0.5 x 22 + 1 \u003d 12 cm.
To determine the width over the knee, determine the full girth over the knee with the allowance for the fitting and the seams (40.5 + 4 + 4 \u003d 48.5 cm) and semi-cuddle with the allowance for the felting and seams (48.5 / 2 \u003d 24.2 cm) .
K'K'1 \u003d K'K'2 \u003d 0.5 x 24,2 \u003d 12 cm.
The width of the front half on the line of the yagoditz y1y2 \u003d b1b2.
The position of the point 1 on the bisector of the angle B2Y2Y21 is determined by the segment of Y21 \u003d 1.5 cm (constant number). Point Ya21 is located at the intersection of direct K'2B21 with the line of the buttocks.
To build a bay line from point B2 up, a vertical is carried out to the intersection with a horizontal passing through the point T (point T2). From the point T2, lay down 1.5 - 2 cm and put the T21 point. The bay line is carried out through points T21, B2, Y21.
Having a bay line from point T2 to the left 2 cm is due to the fact that the pants have a dense fit and are built without pulling and folds under the belt.
Width on the waist line T21T1 \u003d 0.5St + 1 \u003d 0.5 x 41 + 1 \u003d 21.5 cm.
The highest point of the side cut is determined by the segment T1T11 \u003d 0.7. 1 cm. Points T11 and B1 are connected to the line with a deflection in the middle equal to 0.5 cm. The point K'1 is connected to the B1 point and spend the in the middle in the middle equal to 0.5 cm. The deflection of the Niza line from the point N is 1 cm.
To build a rounded pocket on the front half, from a point T11, a radius of 11 cm is carried out with an arc, which crosses the top slice line at the point K7 and the side slice line at the point K8.
Rear halves of trousers. The width of the rear half is equal to the width of the nose of the front half of the NN3 \u003d NN4 \u003d NN1. The width over the knee of the rear halves is equal to the width over the knee of the front half: K'K'Z \u003d K'K'4 \u003d KKZ.
Point B3 is located on the lines of the hips B1B3 \u003d 0.1SB - 2 \u003d 0.1 x 50.5 - 2 \u003d 3.5 cm.
The width of the rear halves of the trousers on the lines of the hips BZB4 \u003d C6 / 2 + 3 \u003d 50.5 / 2 + 3 \u003d 28.2 cm.
Balance trousers B4B5 \u003d 1/20 (SB + Sun) \u003d 3.7 cm. B2B5 balance line continues down to the line of the buttocks (Point Y40). From the point of Y40 on the line of the buttocks to the right, the segment of Y40Y4 \u003d B4B5 - 1 \u003d 3.7 - 1 \u003d 2.7 cm is lowered.
Through the points of Y4 and B5 spend direct on which the b5t5 segment is laid from the point B5, equal to the T2B2 segment. From the B5 point B5, the B5T5 radius is carried out to the left and lay the segment T5T51 \u003d 2 cm. T51 and B5 points are combined with a smooth line.
To determine the highest point of the side cut of the back half of T3, two arcs carry out two arcs: from the point T51 by the radius of st / 2 + 2 \u003d 41/2 + 2 \u003d 22.5 cm and from the point K'3 radius equal to the length of the lateral side of the front halves from K ' 1 to T11. T51 and T3 points connect the straight with the deflection in the middle of 0.3 - 0.5 cm. T3 and K'3 points connect the straight line and at the intersection of the bodies of the buttocks put the point I3. The deflection of the line K'3Y3 in the middle is 1 cm.
To determine the width of the rear halves, the trousers on the line of the buttocks determine the length of the perimeter of the hip girth with letters for the felting and seams (56 + 7 + 4 \u003d 67 cm); From this amount, the magnitude of the segment Y1Y21 is subtracted (the width of the front half on the line of the buttocks): y3y5 \u003d 67 - y1y21 \u003d 67 - 28.2 \u003d 38.8 \u003d 39 cm.
The segment of y4y5 is determined by the width of the rear half step. Down from the point y5 lay down 1.5 cm (point Y6). Points y4 and y6 connect auxiliary straight. The line y21y5 is divided by half and from the resulting point is descended by perpendicular to the Y4Y6 line, on the intersection they put the point Y61. Points K'4 and Ya61 connect the line with the deflection in the middle 1 - 1.5 cm. Stepper sections of the front and rear halves are combined over the entire length. Down from point n lay down 1 cm.
Building a coquette and patch pocket on the back of the trousers. Down from point T5 (Fig. 77) The segment T5T51 \u003d 8.7 cm. Down from point T3 along the side of the side slice, the TZTZ1 \u003d 4.5 cm segments are delayed. T51 and T31 points are connected to the auxiliary direct. The TZT5 line is divided by half (point C). From the point C perpendicular to the TZT5 line spend directly down and on the intersection with the T31T51 line they put a point C1. From the points of TZ1 and T51, the solution of the pulp T31T32 \u003d 0.5 is layered down. 0.75; T51T52 \u003d 0.5. 0.75 cm. The TZ2 and T52 points are connected by smooth lines with a point C1. The sides of the formed extortes are equalized by the most side of the C1T52 \u003d Ts1T53. The position of the points T5 and T3 changes with the design of the pullout in the coquetka. From the point C by the radius of CT5 and the CTZ conduct arcs up; Other arches are carried out from points T53 and T31 by the radius T52T5 and TZ2TZ and at the intersection of arcs are determined by the point T'5 and T'3, respectively.
T'5 and T'3 points are combined with smooth lines with a point of C. Conduct the outer sections of the coquettes (see the dotted line in Fig. 77). The lines T31T53 and TZ2T52 are allowed to the seams.
The patch is placed from points T3 and T5 at a distance of 11 cm and from the edge of the side cut - by 4 cm. The width of the pocket 14 - 14.5 cm. The length of the side of the side 13 cm. The height of the cape of the pocket from the middle of the lower base is 3.5 cm. Width Planks from the top base along the edges of the pocket of 1.75 - 2 cm. The height of the cape of the bar from the middle of the top base 3 is 3.5 cm.
Features of building trousers from viscose-lavsan tissues with two folds on the front halves (Fig. 78). In the design of trousers from hard-productive tissues make changes to the construction of the back of the trousers. The top of the rear half from the knee line (above the knee) to the waist compared to the typical design is given to the left due to the movement of step slope to the right. Such a reception provides good land Trousers in the thighs without the use of wet-thermal processing.
When constructing anterior half with two folds, PB female breaks should be at least 2 cm. In this case, the width of the front half in the drawing will be B1B2 \u003d Sat / 2 + 2 cm; B1B2 \u003d Sat / 2 + 2 + 1 cm (if PB \u003d 3 - 4 cm).
Step width on the hips line B2B21 \u003d 0.1SB + 1 cm; Width on the waist line T2T1 \u003d ST / 2 + folding solution + 1 cm.
Location of folds on the waist line: the first fold is located from the fold line to the left with a solution of 3 cm; The second - from the edge of the first 4.5 cm with a solution of 2 cm.
The position of the side and step slices of the back of the trouser at the bottom is determined by the segments of H1N3 \u003d 0; H2N4 \u003d 4 cm; The position of the side and stepping cuts of the rear halves of the trousers on the line above the knee - segments K'1K'3 \u003d 0; K'2K'4 \u003d 4 cm. To the left of the point B1 on the horizontal, the segment B1B3 \u003d 0.1 (Sat + PB) is layered - 1 cm.
The CZB4 segment determines the width of the rear half on the lines of the Bzb4 \u003d (Sat + PB + PSH) - B1B2.
Cut B4B5 determines the balance of trousers B4B5 \u003d 1/20 (Sat + Sun). The B4B5 balance line continues down to the line of the buttocks (Point Y40). To determine the lines of the seating line, I40I4 \u003d B4B5 - 1 cm are found on the line of the berries, 1 cm. From point B5 along the seat line up, the segment B5T5 \u003d T2B2 is delayed (see Fig. 76). T5tz segment (see Fig. 77) Determines the width of the rear half on the feeding line T5T3 \u003d ST / 2 + solution of the rear cut + 2 cm. The fold line on the rear half is moved to the right. Cut n3n4 at the bottom is divided by half.
Building patterns of men's semi-waving trousers
Have you learned how to shoot the measurements for building the pattern of men's trousers? Then we turn to the calculation and construction of the semicircuit trousers pattern. For greater accuracy, building anterior and rear halves of trousers will produce together. At the beginning, we will construct an end to half the trousers, then based on its rear halves.
For example, we take such measurements:
To facilitate its task, you can use the calculator table to accurately calculate the design or the finished parametric pattern. Press a plusTo open the tab and learn more. ↓
Ready solution:
You enter your measurements, and the program automatically calculates all formulas. You do not have to consider in the mind or on the calculator and be afraid to make a mistake in the counting.
290 rubles
The pattern is designed in the Valentina program.
You enter your measurements and the program instantly changes the drawing to your size.
490 rubles
Building Front Half Trousers
We build a straight angle with a vertex at the point
1. Pants length:
From the point T down vertically lay the length of the trousers + 1cm, and put the point N. TN \u003d dB + 1 cm.
TN \u003d 100 + 1 \u003d 101 cm.
2. Seat height:
From the point T, we postpone the removed measure of the height of the Sun seat and deliver the point W or by calculating TSh \u003d ½ SB + (1 - 3 cm for the elderly); ½ Sat for middle age; ½ Sat - (1-3 cm for youth).
TSh \u003d ½ × 51 \u003d 25.5 cm (example for middle age).
3. Line of the knee:
From point w down vertically laying off seg \u003d ½ SN - 6 cm.
Shk \u003d ½ × 75,5 - 6 \u003d 31.75 cm.
4. Line hips:
From point sh, we postpone the segment of the SB \u003d 1/3 of the segment of TCH.
SB \u003d 25.5 ÷ 3 \u003d 8.5 cm.
Now from the points T, b, sh, k, n spending horizontal lines perpendicular to the TN line.
5. Step width:
The width of the front half over the step of the step lay down from the point sh, the horizontally and put the point sh4.
Shsh4 \u003d ½ Sat + 5 cm (for young people); + 6 cm (for middle age); + 7 cm (for the elderly).
Shsh4 \u003d ½ × 51 + 6 \u003d 31.5 cm. (Example for middle age).
6. Width of the hips:
From the point sh4 horizontally, lay the segment 4 cm to the left (constant value) and put the point sh2.
Sh4sh2 \u003d 4 cm (constant value).
Or Shsh2 \u003d Shsh4 - 4 \u003d 31.5-4 \u003d 27.5.
Next, from point sh2 up restore perpendicular to the SHS4 line. And at its intersection with the hip line, we will put the point B1, and at the intersection with the waist line the point T1. Distances Shsh2, BB1, TT1 is the width of the pants along the hips.
7. Pants fold line (arrows):
We divide the segment Shsh4 in half and put the point sh0.
Shsh0 \u003d sh0sh4 \u003d ½ Shsh4.
Shsh0 \u003d sh0sh4 \u003d 31.5 ÷ 2 \u003d 15.75 cm.
From the points T, B, K, n lay down to the right horizontally segments equal to the segment of Shsh0 and put the points T0, B0, K0, H0. And we connect the point T0 with a point of H0 - this is the line of the Schiba (line of otuzhuchi) trousers.
8. Width of the trouser at the bottom:
From the point H0 to the left and right, we deposit the distance equal to the measurement of the SN minus 2 and divided into 2.
H0H1 \u003d H0H2 \u003d (SHN - 2) ÷ 2.
H0H1 \u003d H0H2 \u003d (22 - 2) ÷ 2 \u003d 10 cm.
Connect the point H1 with a point sh, and the point H2 with a point sh4 by straight lines. At the intersection of these lines with the knee line, we put the points K1 and K2, respectively.
9. Bending trousers on the knee line:
From point K1 to the right and on the point K2, lay the left 1 - 1.5 cm.
K1K11 \u003d K2K22 \u003d 1 - 1.5 cm.
Point K11 connect with points W and H1, and point K22 - with points sh4 and H2.
10. Width of trousers along the waist line:
From the point T0 to the right, lay the segment T11 \u003d ¼ ST + 0.5 cm.
T0T11 \u003d ¼ × 42 + 0.5 \u003d 11 cm.
Find the auxiliary point T12. To do this, we deposit from the point T1 down the segment equal to 1/3 of the segment of TCH.
T1T12 \u003d 1/3 × tш. T1T12 \u003d 25.5 ÷ 3 \u003d 8.5 cm.
The T11 point is smoothly connecting with a point T12.
The width of the trousers along the waist line is laying from the point T11 to the left and put the point T2. T11T2 \u003d ½ ST + Cutting or folds. The solution of the cut or fold \u003d 2 - 3 cm.
T11T2 \u003d 42 ÷ 2 + 2 \u003d 23 cm.
Lifting the side seam on the waist line T2T22 \u003d 1 - 1.5 cm, depending on how a person wears pants.
Now we connect the points T22, B, W, K11 and H1 smooth lines and get a line of lateral seam of front halves of trousers.
And connect the points T22, T0 and T11 smooth lines and get the waist line of the front of the trousers.
11. Putout or folds:
Decoration from the point T0 to the left and right at half the solution of the molding or folds. The pulp solution or fold \u003d 2 - 3 cm. The length of the ditch is 8-10 cm.
12. Auxiliary point C:
From the point sh2, we carry out an angle bisectris equal to 0.3 segment of the SB.
Sh 2c \u003d 0.3 × 8.5 \u003d 2.6 cm.
Through points T11, T12, C, S4, we design a smooth line of a bow (middle seam).
13. Lifting the middle of the Niza:
From point H0 up, we will retreat 0.5-1 cm and put the point H5. Through the dots n1n5n2, we will place a beautiful line of the bottom of the front half the trousers.
14. Pocket location:
The location of the pockets on pants depends on the style. In classic trousers, we retreat 6 - 7 cm from the T22 point along the waistline and 21 - 22 cm along the side seam. We get points 7 and 22.
We supply the bright contour to half the trousers.
Building rear halves of trousers
15. Width of the trouser at the bottom:
Decoration from the point H0 to the right and left segments H0H3 \u003d H0H4 \u003d (SHN + 2) ÷ 2.
H0H3 \u003d H0H4 \u003d (22 + 2) ÷ 2 \u003d 12 cm.
16. Width of the trouser at the knee level:
From the points K11 and K22 left and right on the horizontal, we postpone 2 cm and get points K3 and K4.
K11K3 \u003d K22K4 \u003d 2 cm.
17. Side seam:
Singing from the point b horizontally left bb2 \u003d 1/10 Sat.
Ensure lateral sections on the front half. That is, the side sink of the rear half from the point H3 up should be equal to the side cut of the front half the H1T22 (by curve). In accordance with this, we get the point T33. It can be higher or below the T3 point or coincide with it. We will place the side sink of the rear soul mate with a smooth beautiful line.
18. Balance of trousers and the width of the back half along the waistline:
From the point K0, the radius K0T33 spend the arc to the right. Point T33 connect with arc segment equal to the width of the back of the trousers along the waistline. We get a point T4.
T33T4 \u003d ½ ST + RV (extract solution) + 0.5 cm. Pv \u003d 2 - 4 cm.
T33T4 \u003d 42 ÷ 2 + 3 + 0.5 \u003d 24.5 cm.
19. Width of the trouser through the hips line:
From the point B2 to the right along the thighs, lay the segment B2B3 \u003d (Sat + PB + 3) - BB1.
B2B3 \u003d (51 + 2 + 3) - 27.5 \u003d 28.5 cm.
T4 connect with B3 and continue this line to the step. At the intersection with the line of step, we put the point sh22.
20. Auxiliary point D:
From point sh22, we carry out the bisector of the angle B3SH22S2. We get a point D.
Sh22d \u003d 2 - 3 cm. Point D is auxiliary.
21. Width of the pants along the row:
From point sh1 to the right, lay the segment sh1sh5, which is equal to (1/3 of × 2 + 4) - Shsh4. Note about - grumpling hips, that is, you need to multiply by 2.
Sh1sh5 \u003d (102 ÷ 3 × 2 + 4) - 31.5 \u003d 40.5 cm.
22. Step-by-step seam:
Connect the dots H4, K4, sh5 straight lines. Now we measure the length of the step step of the front half the trouser H2K22Sh4 and make a stepper seam of the rear halves by 1 cm in short (for the deception for the outlet with an iron with a humid-thermal processing). N4K4Sh6 \u003d H2K22Sh4 - 1 cm. We will issue a stepper seam of a smooth line, through points H4, K4 and C6.
And the average slice trousers will spend through the points T4, B3, D and W6 smooth beautiful line.
23. Sewage of the middle of the Niza:
From point H0 down, we deposit 0.5 - 1 cm, we obtain the point of H6. Connect the dots H3, H6 and H4 smooth line.
24. Location of Vytachek:
The middle of the first pulp notes on 8 - 9 cm from the T33 point to the right along the waist line, and put the point B1. The middle of the second dye mark on 8 - 9 cm from the middle of the first, we put the point B2. The solution of each molding is 1 - 2 cm. The length of the plotting 7 - 8 cm.
25. Location of the back pocket:
Pocket, we have a 5 cm from the side cut and 7 to 8 cm from the top cut (from the waist). Pickle length 14 cm.
© Olga Marizina
In the previous article, we disassembled the construction of the trousers on the figure with an o-shaped structure of the legs, now proceed to.
The main features of the design of the product with a sleeve of Rellan is a sleeve, one-piece with a shoulder part and.
Very time, I am going to sew my son's sons, so I will use your recommendations
How to sew jeans?
Jeans have become favorite clothing and men, and women since they appeared. And, adapting the wishes of buyers, they changed color, length, landing height, degree of destruction, design solutions. Considering that it is not always possible to pick up the finished jeans of the desired style in boutiques and in the markets, unwittingly ask for a question "How to sew jeans with your own hands?". About technology and will be discussed.
Fabric and its consumption
For jeans, you need a special fabric having a weave of light and dark threads (sarzhevoy). It is called jeans, cotton (do not confuse with cotton), denim. In our online store it is represented in the catalog with the title "Jeans".
- Product length + reserve at 20-25 cm on niza bending and belt, if the width of the hips is less than the width of the fabric.
- Two lengths of the product + reserve at 20-25 cm on the niza bending and belt. If the width of the fabric is less than the harbors of the hips. And further in the situation. Jeans castled - the material will be needed a little more. Direct or skinny - according to the calculation described above.
We sew denim pants
The pattern of jeans is similar to the pattern of trousers. Difference in tailoring technology.
- The basis can be built by their standards by taking a description from any book about sewing.
- Redraw from magazines by Type Burda, Atelier, etc.
- Download ready from the Internet.
- Draw not by standards, but in numbers (this method we have already been described in one of the articles posted on the blog).
- Take advantage of the scheme, substituting your from, about and di.
The pattern was determined. She has already been tested when sewing trousers from another fabric. However, it should be borne in mind that jeans are tightly sitting on the waist and hips, so in these places the pattern will have to approve. And the technique of performing individual nodes and jeans in general is somewhat different from the usual.
Technology tailoring jeans
Here are the main differences of jeans from classic trousers:
- the presence of coquettes on the rear halves;
- finishing seams made of contrasting threads;
- pockets. There are 5 pieces: two from behind, two side front and one small pockets located in one of the front.
And now separate sewing units to create a pair of magnificent jeans.
- The edges of the rear pockets are processed, subject (at the top more). Make embroidery on them or applique from fabric, lace, rhinestones, sequins, decorative line.
Now fittings. Buttons, metal buttons, chains, rivets - all these products can be found in our online store.
Denim pants are not difficult to sew, despite the abundance of points in the process technology. The main thing is to "plant" them so that it is convenient to move, sit, run.
Many sewing lovers are not taken for sewing jeans due to the thickness of the seams that the household sewing machine cannot flash. This article is told how to sew jeans without industrial equipment. Remember that on household equipment sew original jeans will not work, it is not intended for the thickness that layers of denim. Therefore, we take a lightweight fabric "under jeans", or, sew jeans for these articles.
Your jeans will differ from real branded jeans. Slices at home we treat overlock, in the "real" jeans of the seams are made by "Rear to". If your machine is screaming very thick thread - well, if not, you can simulate a denim line. You can put holnitenes if there are special nozzles for accessories and strong men's hands, as well as a guarantee that it will look beautiful.
Materials and accessories for sewing jeans
Rice_1 journal. 1.50 m with a width of 1.40 m is enough for jeans for all sizes, including 52. The fabric before will definitely decatide. If there is an elestant fiber in the fabric, they can be deformed from a pair of iron. Therefore, the denim fabric with Elastane is best wrapped and dry fluttering not heated iron without using steam. 
Zipper zipper. Interested in jeans in jeans is quite difficult for those who do this from time to time, although the article outlines the easiest way. Therefore, take a solid zipper, a good manufacturer, so that after the first wash it did not have to fall out and sew again. There are plastic lightning on sale specifically for jeans, not inferior by metal strength.
Threads and machine needle for denim. In our example, the threads of two colors are chosen: for tailoring - lingonberries, for dumping seams - reduced gray.
Cutting jeans
You will need a proven pattern. You can take the pattern of your favorite trousers, not very free, and hide jeans on them. It should be remembered that any trousers in the sock are stretched, therefore, it is precisely jeans that can be slightly extinguished by reducing the pattern of 0.5 cm only from the side sections of the shelter and the back. It is not necessary to do in Corn, it can be done on the fitting.
We fold the cut in half, we combine the edges, check that the fabric does not arise "waves". On the transverse thread, the tissue breaks. 
Align the skew with the help of the kitchen and the long metal line. 
Transfer from the pattern to the cloth direction of the share thread to avoid the skewer in jeans: meat from the edge the same distance at the bottom and at the top of the sides, connect the marks of the chalk line.
Put the pattern on the fabric, combining the share thread on the pattern with the chalk line. We supply the pattern with chalk, if necessary, immediately design the bottom stunner. Selling for all slices make the same. For example, if you want to download a 5 cm to the rod, we design on the shelf 2.5 cm and on the back 2.5 cm. Alternate only the shelf or only the back is impossible. Usually, the jeans belt have several centimeters below the waist line. We take into account this when plotting jeans and immediately lower the patterns on the desired number of centimeters on the shelf and on the back. 
We draw a break on the seam, it is desirable that on all sections it is the same. Usually, for jeans it is enough to make a break on the seam 1.5 cm on all seams and 4 cm on the bottom of the pantian. We apply the carbon to the chalk line and, leading the square along the line, mark with a chalk point. With some skill to do it work quickly. 
Be sure to put the lines of combining the pantian at the level of the knee. You can make small serifs that when processing overlock, the seam closes. 
Package on the seam on the middle seam shelf (zipper space) increase by 1.5 cm. That is, add 1.5 cm to an existing allowance. 
We divide both halves. Apply to yourself. If it is women's jeans, then only with the right shelf are cutting added 1.5 cm, if men, cut off from the left shelf. Important! The added allowance is cut only on one side - with the one to which gulfik will fill. 
Draw on the shelf future seams on the gulfic. You can take your favorite jeans and copy dimensions. These are preliminary lines; As they can change in height, it is described in detail below in the "Lightning in jeans".
We cut the gulfik on the right half. It is wider than pre-drawn lines per 1 cm, and 1.5 cm longer. 
I cut off the slope. This is a double item bent in half in height. Such a width is the same as Gulfik and 1 cm longer. At the bottom of the slope, be sure to add 1 cm allowance. 
Usually, on the rear of the trousers, two filthy, and on jeans they replaced the coquette. Drop the coquette on the existing pattern is easy. We challenge the pins and remove the size of the coquette from your favorite jeans - measure the height along the middle and side seams. We carry these sizes on the pattern and connect the straight line. We use a water-soluble felt-tumbler. 
We take out the pins. 
We translate the coquetka on paper. Close the wrappers. 
And, on a paper pattern (with closed withdocks), we draw a coquette on the fabric. Do not forget about the allowances on the seams.
On the back of the trousers remained a mud, which will be closed pocket. If you need a good fit of the shape, we definitely leave the fallout, especially if the figure is rude. The second sweepage can be neglected, since its solution is very small; Or translate the suture solution in the side seam. 
I cut the rear halves. We fold the shelf (front halves) and the back (rear halves) by step seam, combining the chalk lines of the future medium seam. We cover the middle seam: cut off the excess fabric on the shelf. The ONNOROVA helps to avoid the chances of step by step. 
Sew jeans belt, as in the original, it will not work on domestic equipment. Therefore, it is crumbling with a fold on the upper edge. The width of the belt is best to measure on the finished jeans and take into account the allowance for the seams. The share is located along the belt length - this location of the share thread will help to avoid stretching the belt in the socks process. 
Pockets in jeans. Curra and tailoring.
Crow pockets on the front half
We continue to cut jeans started above. I cut your pockets on the front soults. Dimensions and shape of the pocket can be taken from your favorite finished jeans. 
We translate the circuit of the entrance to the pocket to the front half, draw the allowance on the seam. 
Sut off the battery line both front halves.
We supply the cut part on the lunge of the tissue from the cut and, adding a bottom of 5 cm, draw another contour. 
The top (cut from the front halves) is no longer needed; The lower part is called the foreman. 
From the flap of the fabric (sittz, torn fabric) Crow pocket on the front halves of the trousers. 
Such details are cut two - for both front halves. Pocket depth is making such a brush hand to the wrist in her. It can be done less, but no longer makes sense, otherwise it will be uncomfortable to get items. 
The second part of the pocket is linked without the cutout of the entrance to the pocket and the jeans fabric is superimposed on it. Such details of the pockets of Crow two are for both front halves. All parts of the pockets immediately pushed the pins to the appropriate parts of the front halves in order not to lose them in the process. 
From the tissue of pocket Crow Canta by oblique. They will be treated with gulfik, but you can hide them at this stage so as not to get the fabric twice. 
We sew pockets on jeans
If the jeans are lightweight, the inputs in the pocket on the front halves strengthen the adhesive. Drink your pocket to the entrance to the pocket. We sew both pockets. 
I flex a seam allowance on the pocket, and add it to your pocket. Pasting cut close to the line. 
Roofing seam. Now you can stop the entrance to your pocket. 
From the lungs of Croy, we cut a small pocket and add it only to one supercharist. Dimensions of a small pocket taking from your favorite jeans. 
We put the workpiece on the pocket and admonish along the bottom, treated with overlock cut, to the pocket. 
We put the finished front half on the pocket, we spoil the entrance to the pocket pockets, the priest all the layers of the fabric. 
From the wrong side, the pocket looks like this. It remains to sew chips of pockets. 
We sew both cut slices among themselves from the inside of the pocket. 
Sut off the seam allowance close to the line, turn out. 
And once again we spend the cut from the outside of the pocket. 
Refuel. The seam will be clean and neat - the seam allowance is located inside. 
We admonish the pocket on the top and side slice. Pockets on the front halves are ready. 
Rear pockets on jeans
Crow the rear pockets of jeans
We continue to cut jeans started in the article "How to sew jeans." I cut the rear pockets. Dimensions and shape of the pocket can be taken from your favorite jeans. Surely, you have already drawn attention to the fact that the rear pocket is not symmetrical. 
In order not to extinct everything to the millimeter, we put the remainder of the fabric from the cut on the finished pocket and supply it with chalk. 
Then, according to the line, the contour of the pocket, we make a drink on the seam around the perimeter 1.5 cm and 3-4 cm along the top cut of the pocket. 
I cut both pockets by folding two flap fabric facial sides inside. One of the pockets once again we put on the finished pocket of jeans and supply all the small details that are on the finished pocket. 
Sequentially, removing the sizes from the finished pocket, we cut all the minor overhead details. Do not forget about the allowances on the seams. 
On the second pocket, we draw a line on which your pocket can be shot figure. Pockets will be the same in shape, but different designs. This is a rather common phenomenon on finished jeans. 
We sew the rear pockets of jeans
We start the allowance on the seam at the top of both pockets. We strengthen the adhesive point. 
One pocket is sequentially sequeurous curly parts. First - small pockets. 
Then, we processes the oblique baker's curved item. 
I flex a seam allowance towards Beaks and add them to the Beach. 
Cut the allowance close to the line. 
I start bay, fading the edge. Locking on the second side of the curved part of it. When rooting, we carry the tip of the iron over the drawn fold line, without entering the allowance. In this case, the semicircular edge will light easily and quickly. 
We admonish the bay finishing line. And we apply a curved item on your pocket. 
We admonish the detail to the pocket. Open lower cut of a small pocket located between two finishing lines. 
On the second pocket, we make a curly snatch, and we raise the top of the pockets of Overlock. 
We start all allowances on the seams on the chalk lines. We assign pockets to each other and necessarily check whether they are the same. 
I flex the allowance at the top of your pocket on the wrong side, and add short sections. At the ends of the line necessarily make the leaps. Carry out the fabric on the bend and cut the step of the step in order to maximize the thickness of the tissue layer. 
Both pockets are tightened at the top, the ends of the threads fill in the needle and hide inside. 
We assign a pocket to the rear soulfoundation of jeans and admonish it. The location of the pocket take from your favorite jeans. 
All four pockets are ready. Important!The first thing they do on jeans - pockets. Only after that you can start assembling jeans.
A few words about the finishing line. If your machine does not want to sew thick finishing thread, use tricks. Almost all household machines have a reinforced line in which instead of one stitch - three. It is all the finishing lines on these jeans. Pay attention to the corners of the pockets. Usually, in the finished jeans, the zigzag is reinforced the outer corner of the pocket. Internal angle is under construction in these pockets - this will prevent the pocket of the pocket "with meat". 
Lightning in jeans
We sew zipper into jeans only after pockets are fully made on the front halves.
Gulfik and slopes, tailored at the beginning of the article, strengthen the adhesive. Gulfik is gluing completely, the slopes - half of the width. 
Straighten the lower short edge of the slope, cut off the point of the step, carve the corner. 
Turn out, tap. The slope overlaps the gulfik in length, in width it is less than Gulfa by 1.5 cm (insertion on the seam). 
We process gulfik oblique baking, charging it on a rounded plot. 
Overweight switch seam only Beyki. on a rounded area. There is a breakdown and open slot. 
We enhance the bay cut, bend twice, root, add. In the finished form, when applied, the slope turns out longer and slightly already Gulfi. 
We declare all the details - gulfik, sloping, front halves. We carry out the middle seam on one front half, to which the slope will short. 
Send gulfik. 
I flex a seam allowance on a gulfik, we shoot the gulfik close to the seam, the seam allowances cut close to the line. 
We apply zipper on the gulfik, as shown in the photo. Lightning stop is below the future line, which we will rejuvenate gulfik on the front side. Between the stopper and the future line should fit the foot sewing machine. Where the lines will be located, put the chalk mark. Lightning tape should not be located below Gulfi. 
In the chalk mark we specify the lines of the Gulfi Council. Singing the seam allowance below Gulfi. 
We add to the gulfik zipper flashes. 
We try the slope. 
We rush to it not crawling a lightning bracket. 
We impose a second front half in such a way that the edge of Gulfa coincides with the seam lines. 
We value the added allowance of 1.5 cm and add the lightning and the soul mate to the slope. 
At the end of the seam, we make a screens. 
Then, we impose a fastened allowance of the right front half on the seam line of the left half, we rush the pins perpendicular to the seam. 
And add the finishing line. 
From the wrong side, the part of the slope is prevented and put the lines on the front side of the zigzag.
Important! Do not cut the upper area of \u200b\u200blightning until you sew the belt. 
We sew jeans
After stitched pockets on the rear and front halves, the lightning is sewn and sews the middle seam of the front halves, proceed to the assembly of jeans.
We sew a stepper, medium and side jeans seams
We sew a coquette to the rear halves, we take together and tighten the seam. 
The middle seam on one of the rear halves is made by the involving side, strongly stretching the cut. How to find out which are made from cuts? We apply the middle seam of the rear half to the middle seam of the front half and look so that the allowances lie down in different directions. We do it to avoid unnecessary thickening. We sew the rear halves on the middle seam. Cut off the second point close to the seam, we put in place of the rounding of the cut. 
Locking of the coquette we precipitate maximum, carving excess fabric. 
We flex a battery on one side so that the damped slice blocked the unmet, and tighten the middle seam on the rear halves. 
We sew stepper sections of both halves, aligning the average seams of the front and rear halves of jeans, and also - knee labels. At the same time, the rear halves will be slightly peeking, let it do not confuse - to line, considering that the allowance on the seam we will slightly decrease - half the magnitude of the protruding area. 
We carry out a stepper cut. At the site of the docking of the middle seams, the allowances lie in different directions, which makes it possible to see such a thickness on household equipment. 
If the films of the seams lay in one direction, as on an industrial product, the protrusion of the steps would not be able to do from the thickness of the layer of the tissue. 
We cross and waste the side seams, combining knee labels. At this stage, jeans can be performed and removed the excess width into the side seams. We are tightening the side seam by moving the allowance for the back. Usually, removing not the entire seam, and part to fix the pocket. 
We try on jeans for yourself to clarify the location of the belt sewing line. For this, the belt must be made and try on with jeans. We put on jeans, we put on top to them, temper it in the center of the passage, and at the bottom of the belt draw a chalk line on jeans. 
Production of belt and cutters
Belt - a strip of fabric, outstanding along the share thread. The width of the belt in the finished form is 4 cm. Cut the strip, 10 cm wide, where - 8 cm belt and 2 cm - allowances on the seams. Bend the strip along. On the one hand, the allowance is 0.5 cm, from the second - 1.5 cm. Putting the place of bend. We strengthen the woven glue the side of the belt that is wider. 
We sew a bay for edging internal cut to the non-flimsy side of the belt.
We start on the wrong side, not bending a beyk, but only a cut out of it and add bay. 
Before we sew the belt, we make slamming slaps. In our case, the edge of the edge of the fabric was included as an additional decor. You can try to sew slaves in a different way - to practice, what thickness can be forced your sewing machine. If Jeans is lightweight, will not work to make slamkers, as in original jeans. 
It is convenient to make slas to one strip - 60 cm. Turn the strip. 
Then, we divide it by 6 cutters of the same length of 10 cm. 
Sew the belt for jeans
We have slamkers, focusing on ready-made jeans. As a rule, behind the finished jeans have one cut, but the household car will not be able to flash so many layers of the fabric, so we make two slamkers from behind. Send them to jeans. 
Send the belt to jeans, at the end and at the beginning of the line make the leaf. 
The inner side of the belt should turn out to be wider than the width of Kant - 0.5 cm. At this stage, jeans need to try again to make sure that the belt matches your size and jeans are well sitting on the figure. 
We are shooting short ends of the belt, making it at the beginning and at the end of the seam of the lines. 
Soak. 
We spend the top edge of the belt. 
We are rolling with oblique stitches the inner layer of the belt to the external, the spinning needle all the layers of the fabric. At the same time, we enhance the belt hand on which you hint. This is how we write interior Belt, imitating body rips. 
Important!Take the belt in two stages - starting from one edge to the middle of the back, then, start from the second edge, and also before the middle of the back. 
We grasp the seam. We start always scribble on the side of the slope. With the passage of zippers, be careful - the needle can break. Therefore, it is better in these places to geachily turn the flywheel with a hand of hand. 