The rear outer strap is used for. Shoe details

Top parts or blanks are subdivided into subgroups: outer, inner (adjacent to the foot) and intermediate. Table 3 and fig. 12 and 13 show details of the top of the main types of footwear: boots, boots, low shoes. The details of the shoes are not given due to their variety in the design of the blanks.

Outside upper details. Depending on the stresses experienced in the manufacture of shoes, the nature and magnitude of deformations when wearing the finished product, the outer parts of the top can be conditionally divided into responsible and less important.

The vamp and the forefoot experience the greatest impacts when wearing shoes. When walking in the area of ​​the tufts, these parts are subjected to repeated bending with tension. Repeated bending with stretching, as well as exposure to atmospheric moisture and perspiration (especially for yuft shoes) leads to the destruction of materials. Research has shown that normal quality upper materials must withstand up to 1.5 million bends or more.

The toe is the front, most prominent part in the shoe, so it must have and be retained when worn beautiful view... In the manufacture of footwear, this part is strongly stretched; during operation, it undergoes punching and abrasion from the side of the foot, as well as impacts and friction against hard objects.

Ankle boots, tops, backs - less critical details; they are subject to weaker mechanical stress when wearing shoes. Due to the bending on the lower part of the ankle, and especially on the tops, folds are formed that do not always straighten.

The presence of folds can lead to abrasion of the material due to touching and friction of one half pair on the other. The backs of the shoes are also subject to some abrasion.

The rear outer strap is used to reinforce the seams that hold the ankle boots, heels in boots, low shoes, shoes and tops in boots. When stitching the bootlegs, a stitching can be used - a narrow strip of leather that replaces the rear outer strap. These details are cut out of dense areas of the skin.

The suction pad is a strip of leather 18-25 mm wide, which is stitched onto the tops of shoes with a fabric upper; it increases the holding strength of the hooks and hooks.

The tongue closes the front cut in boots, low shoes, prevents moisture, dust, dirt from entering the shoe, insulates the foot from the pressure of blocks, hooks, laces; it is cut out of any areas of leather and other materials.

Internal upper. The lining in the shoe reduces the ductility of the outer parts of the upper and contributes to better retention of the shape of the shoe during its operation, ensures the smoothness and evenness of the inner surface of the product, increases the heat-shielding properties of insulated shoes, and also absorbs the perspiration of the foot. The lining under the front of the boot is called a sub-outfit, under the bootlegs - a foot, under the upper part of the bootleg - gluing, or hemming. The lining is exposed to sweat during the operation of the shoe, in the bundle part, like the outer parts of the upper, it experiences bending with stretching. The main cause of liner wear is abrasion due to friction against the foot, especially in the heel and little toe.

To strengthen the zone of maximum abrasion, the lining in the heel of low shoes and shoes is made of leather or artificial materials in combination with a fabric in the toe-bundle. The main lining for boots is cut out of textile materials, boots - from leather or fabric, the back inner belt - from natural or artificial leather. Natural or artificial fur is used for the lining of insulated shoes.

The underblock is cut out of dense areas of the skin; its purpose is the same as that of the supercharger.

The padding reinforces the upper edge of the boot blank, protects it from deformation, and the lining from shedding; it is made of leather or special braid.

The ears in the boots are cut out of the braid. They serve for the convenience of putting shoes on the foot.

Upper intermediate details. Intermediate parts include rigid toes, backs, sidewalls, interlining, interfacing, bartack.

The rigid toe cap helps to maintain the shape of the workpiece, protects the toes from impacts, and the outer parts from wear.

A hard back (according to the position in the shoe, it is advisable to consider a hard back and toe to be the details of the top, however, by the type of materials used, they belong to the details of the bottom) creates a stable heel nest, protects the shoes from subsidence, and the leg from external mechanical influences.

The wear of toe caps is expressed in their deformation and softening and occurs as a result of frequent impacts, i.e., external mechanical influences.

The main factors of wear on hard backs - abrasion, curvature, subsidence - are associated with the impact of the foot on the shoe. Rigid backdrops must be stable and resistant to moisture; toes in unlined shoes should be soft and wrinkle-free.

Backs and toes are made of various materials: leather, granitol, rubber-fiber mixtures. Along with this, moforin is used for rigid toes, for hard backs - shoe cardboard, plastic leather; Elastic toe caps and thermoplastic backs are increasingly used (The material for elastic toe caps is a fabric cord coated on both or one side with latex. thermoplastic resins, such as perchlorovinyl)

The sidewalls are used to increase the dimensional stability of the shoe; they are cut out of dense, highly finished fabrics, mainly from cord.

The interlining is usually made of coarse calico, harsh twill, bumazey cord; it is glued under the outer parts of the top, having a thickness of less than 0.9 mm in the vamp and less than 0.7 mm in the ankle boots and backs. Details from chevro, chevrette, fabrics are glued regardless of thickness. The use of an interlining contributes to better retention of the shape of the shoe during its operation.

The interblock is cut out of dense fabric, and this part is used to better hold the blocks and hooks.

A bartack is a small piece of leather or fabric that serves to strengthen the junction of the ankle boots with the vamp and reinforce the stitching of the ears. The visible setting should be attributed to the outer details of the top.

The quality of the workpiece parts is inconsistent and fluctuates depending on the type of shoe, the design of its upper, and the materials used. For example, yuft boots are made without a footer and a sub-outfit with a sufficient thickness of yuft; unlined shoes are made without lining in the toe-tuft part, etc. The number of outer parts of the upper and their configuration may vary depending on the model of the workpiece.

The outer details of the upper are the most visible part of the shoe, creating its interior. The load on the parts of the shoe and the deformations to which they are subjected are associated with the work of the foot during human activity. The upper of the shoe is exposed to impacts on uneven ground and furniture, friction on the ground. In addition, the details of the upper wear out under the influence of dust, dirt, sweat from the foot. As a result, in the process of wearing, folds of various severity, tears, and scuffs are formed.

The intensity of wear depends on the materials and the tightness of the upper to the foot - the smaller it is, the higher and longer the folds. The materials used for the upper of the shoe should have low rigidity and good bendability in order to avoid the formation of coarse folds, the ability to absorb moisture from the inner space of the shoe, allow the foot to "breathe", and be moisture and heat protective in winter and autumn shoes. The elastic properties of the upper materials should be such that the workpiece is easily molded to the foot, but does not lose its shape.

The main details of the upper of the shoe.

Vamp - connects the ankle boots to the toe and covers mainly the bundle of the foot. Distinguish between circular, asymmetrical, whole and strap vamp.

Ankle boots cover the heel of the foot in shoes, and in boots - the ankle (ankle) part. Classic ankle boots during wearing experience less stress, therefore, in their upper part, some defects are allowed that do not affect the wear of the shoe.

The back covers only the heel of the foot.

The tongue is sewn to the vamp and serves to increase the degree of closeness of the workpiece, as a detail especially characteristic of boots.

The toe covers only the phalanges of the toes and can be either curly or smooth in shape. This is the most visible part of the shoe, so it must be carefully molded, have a beautiful appearance, without blemishes, and keep it, must resist stress well, because socks perceive the greatest external influences.

The outer rear strap is laid in the form of a narrow strip along the back seam and serves to strengthen it, sometimes it is widened in the heel.

A fastener in the form of a small piece of material is inserted between the parts (vamp and ankle boots) into the seam to strengthen it, as well as to strengthen the back set-in seam.

The strap-shaped overhead pad is sewn into the place where the blocks are attached and serves to strengthen them.

The valve is laid under a zipper and is made of the upper material.

The straps are represented in shoes by strips of material of various widths. Distinguish between ally straps, heel straps, bracelet straps, T-shaped straps, stand straps, etc.

The tops as a detail are characteristic of boots, half boots - they cover the lower leg completely or up to half the length. The length of the tops is set in the standards in accordance with the gender and age assignment and the type of footwear.

The inner parts of the top include various types of lining parts that make up a certain set. The purpose of the inner parts is to protect the foot from rubbing with the seams and edges of the upper parts, to increase the dimensional stability and durability of the shoe, and to improve the hygienic properties.

Details of the bottom of the shoe. The details of the bottom protect the foot from the ground, give it a certain position and stability relative to the ground. Outside details include soles, heels, heels, soles, fittings, etc.

The soles perform significant work, protecting the foot from the ground, and their shock-absorbing, moisture-protective, frictional properties depend primarily on the type of material and on the profile of the running surface. They work for abrasion and bending. In the sole, a distinction is made between running and non-running surfaces, the edge surface. The nature of the finish of the edge of the sole affects the appearance of the shoe, especially in thickened soles made of synthetic materials - it is dyed, embossed with various patterns.

The sole is divided into styles: flat and profiled sole. In addition, according to the manufacturing method, molded and stamped soles are distinguished.

The heels are designed to raise the heel of the foot to different heights and determine the position of the foot when walking and standing. The heel protects the heel of the sole from wear and tear, affects the appearance of the shoe. According to the manufacturing method, heels are divided into molded, stamped and inlaid. There are three types of heels: columns, wedge-shaped and semi-wedge-shaped. According to the materials used, heels are distinguished from leather, thermoplastics, rubber, wood, covered and non-covered. By height, heels are distinguished: low, medium, high and extra high.

Heels protect the heels from wear, they are a replaceable part, they are made from wear-resistant parts.

The soles are glued into the toe-tuft of the sole to prevent wear on the soles.

Stitches are used in various details - for stitching the heel, stitching the platform in stitched-glue shoes, stitching the main insole in summer open shoes.

Rantas are used only in shoes with certain methods of attaching the soles. A welt is a narrow strip of material that runs around the perimeter of the shoe. Figure 1.1.3 shows the details of the top and bottom of the shoe.

Figure 1.1.3 - Details of the top and bottom of the shoe

The inner details of the bottom are insoles, insoles and half insoles. Insert insoles are made of lining leather, textile materials, porous rubber, fur and artificial fur, cardboard, etc. Moreover, in winter and autumn shoes, insert insoles are made rigid, two-layer (duplicated with cardboard), not glued, so that they can be removed for drying. Thin insoles for the rest of the shoe must be glued to the main insole so that they do not clump together when walking. Half insoles replace whole insoles and can be glued either only in the heel-toe, or in the toe-tuft part, according to the technical description of the model.

The intermediate parts of the bottom have various functions... These include covers, shanks, platforms, underlays.

Lining is a part that repeats the style of the sole and is used in the combined methods of attaching the sole and yuft shoes.

A pad is a part used to level the footprint of the shoe so that no bumps and dents form on the surface of the main insole and sole.

The shank (in medical footwear - instep support) is an elastic support for the arch of the foot and fills the recess in the shank part of the shoe (instead of the padding).

The platform is used only in shoes with a stitching-and-glue fastening method; it corresponds in size to the toe-bun part or the entire surface of the sole.

Conclusions for chapter 1

In Chapter 1, we looked at the basic materials used to make shoes, namely, materials for the tops and bottoms of shoes, materials for the lining and intermediate pieces, as well as studied the details of the upper and bottom of the shoes.

• 1 It has been established that chrome leather, velor, suede are referred to the materials of the upper of the footwear; the materials of the bottom of the footwear are natural leather, rubber, PVC. It was also found that the materials for the lining and intermediate parts are materials such as nonwovens, knitted fabrics, artificial furs, shoeboards, moforin, thermoplastic and elastic materials.
• 2 Revealed the main details of the shoe. Top details include: vamp, ankle boots, tongue, heel, toe, rear outer strap, flap, straps and tops, and bottom details: soles, heels, heels, outsoles, trim parts, backing, linings and shanks.

ralf ringer leather shoes

A

Amideskin is a soft artificial leather, the base of which is non-woven, fabric or knitted (there must be a polyamide coating).

Aniline leather is a type of leather dyed with organic dyes with minimal processing.

Application:

1. decorative trim, which was created by gluing, sewing on, overlaying multi-colored pieces of material;
2. these are patterns obtained in this way.

Finishing is the process of applying a thin layer of a special liquid (finishing) during the final finishing, which improves the appearance and makes it easier to care for.

Footwear article is a short conditional characteristic, which contains information about technologies, designs that were used in the manufacture of the material and the purpose of the footwear. In the Russian GOST, the first letter of the article speaks about the purpose and method of production, the second and third - about the type of leather. Subsequent figures: the first speaks of the type of shoe; the second, third and fourth are about its variety, and the fifth and sixth are about fastening methods. The letter after the numbers indicates the color of the upper materials. Today, many Russian enterprises do not follow GOST when labeling their products. In most countries of the world there are no strict rules for coding an article, since each company has its own.

The range of shoes is the composition and ratio different types footwear that were produced by the company or that are available in the store.

B

1. Swamp or fishing boots or over the knee boots.
2. Special protective soft footwear that is applicable in the medical, chemical industry.
3. Also so called high Canadian, moccasin boots, they are mainly worn by lumberjacks.

A fringe is a series of loose strands or strips of leather. They are often fastened in advance to the braid. Finishing element for clothing and footwear.

Bakhtarma - the lower surface of the tanned skin or skin of an animal.

Bake is a strap that is used to make the upper in open shoes.

Ankle boots are the outer parts of the upper of the shoe that cover the back of the foot in boots / low shoes. Most often, they have elements for attaching shoes to the foot.

Ankle boots - women's model boots of a shortened length.

Boots are shoes with upper that cover the entire dorsum of the foot.

Treads - high boots with sockets.

Boots are tall rubber or warm shoes that are worn over other shoes.

Burki - felt or felt boots with leather soles and backs.

V

Valenki - one-piece winter boots made of felt.

Veluton is a lining fabric that looks like artificial velor.

Velor - chrome-tanned leather with a front surface treated by a grinding method or bakhtarma. On it, a tanned semi-finished product is selected from which deep facial defects, unsuitable for the production of leather with a natural facial surface. Used for the manufacture of tops for shoes, clothing and leather goods.

Types of Shoes - classification of shoes according to construction and appearance. There are five main groups: sandals, shoes, low shoes, boots and boots.

Vinyl leather - soft artificial leather with a polyvinyl chloride coating. V. NT - designation of vinyl leather on a non-woven basis; V.-T - designation of vinyl leather fabric base; V.-TR - designation of vinyl leather on a knitted basis.

Vinylurethane imitation leather-TP is a glove artificial leather on a knitted fabric with a two-layer coating: the lower layer of which consists of porous PVC, and the front layer of polyurethane.

The inserted half insole is an inner part of the upper of the shoe, which corresponds in shape to the heel-and-leg part of the main insole and acts as an insert insole.

An insole is an inner part of the upper of a shoe that matches the shape of the main insole. Designed to improve the aesthetic, comfortable and hygienic properties of shoes. An orthopedic insole is often widely used.

Felt is a material made up of a mixture of wool fibers.

Fitness is the shoe's size and length and fullness, one of the indicators of comfort.

Vulcanization is a physicochemical process of the formation of a spatial structure in rubber under the influence of heat, radiation, microwave currents.

G

Haberdashery vinyl leather-T is an artificial leather on a fabric, knitted and fibrous base with a polyvinyl chloride coating, as well as finishing for haberdashery.

Haberdashery leather is an artificial or natural leather of various tanning, which is used for haberdashery products.

Galoshes are low solid rubber shoes.

The shank is a metal figured plate that is fixed between the main insole and the sole in order to create the necessary rigidity and elasticity in the shank of the shoe.

Shoe nails - nails that are intended for the main and auxiliary operations of the production of footwear. Shoe nails are used for tightening, tightening the blanks of the upper of the shoes, attaching heels, heels, joints, soles or its crocule, as well as for fastening the parts of the shoes by hand.

The hygienic properties of footwear is a complex of properties that provide optimal conditions for wearing footwear for human health. These include hygroscopicity, moisture yield, vapor permeability, heat conductor and others.

A bootleg is the outer part of the top of the boot that covers the lower leg, and sometimes part or the thigh.

The ankle joint is the joint that connects the bones of the lower leg and foot.

Hot vulcanization is a method of attaching a rubber bottom, in which, due to the elevated temperature, the sole and heel that have been made from a raw rubber compound are molded, vulcanized and attached.

The ridge of the last is the protrusion at the junction of the outer and inner surfaces of the last.

The fretboard is the properties of the leather that can be detected by touch.

A soil model is a drawing of an assembly model that is used for detailing.

Priming is the application of a thin layer of impregnating primer to the skin surface, which contains polymer materials. It is carried out to reduce or eliminate fragrance and to improve the quality of the skin.

The lip of the insole is the protrusion of the main insole of the welted shoe, the welt is attached to it.

Gusariki is a specific group of footwear for children aged 1-1.5 years, foot length 120-14 mm.

D

Girls' shoes - a specific group of footwear for teenage girls with a foot length of 230-250mm. It is more often found in Soviet and Russian GOSTs.

The dermis is the middle layer of the skin that is used to make the skin. Consists of dense tissue, which is formed by a basic amorphous substance, various cellular elements and fibrous formations.

Defect of footwear - deficiency, damage to footwear or its individual parts, materials. The term "blemish" is also applicable to the skin.

Children's shoes - a specific group of footwear for children (from nursery to preschool age). This type of footwear has certain design features. Increased environmental and hygienic requirements are imposed on the materials of children's shoes.

Deformation of the shoe is a defect that is expressed in a change in the shape of the shoe relative to the last and the specified parameters.

Toe (back) deformation - a shoe defect, which is expressed in an unrecoverable change in the shape of the toe.

A deformity of the foot is a congenital or acquired abnormality in the size and shape of the foot. Acquired deformity of the foot can be the result of prolonged wear of non-tight or poorly designed shoes, or the use of excessively rigid shoe materials.

The length of the last is the distance between the outermost points of the toe and heel of the last.

Foot length is the distance from the most prominent point of the heel to the outermost point of the first or second toe.

Home shoes are footwear to be worn at home. In most cases, it has a top made of fabric or genuine leather.

Tanning is the interaction of tanning substances with functional groups of intermolecular collagen chains; in the process, stable additional cross-links are formed. Types of tanning - mineral, fat, formaldehyde, tannin, combined.

Tanning agents are mineral or organic substances that, when interacting with protein substances, are capable of transforming pelt into leather.

F

Women's footwear is a specific group of footwear that is specially designed for women. The industry is releasing en masse women's shoes from 21.5 to 27.5 sizes.

Z

The heel is the outer part of the upper that covers the heel of the foot.

The heel is the inner or intermediate piece of the upper of the shoe, which is located in the heel. It is needed to maintain the shape of the shoe.

Skin jams - a defect (defect) in the form of folds in the areas of the skin that are formed in the process of pressing and polishing.

Suede is a fat-tanned leather. Suitable for the manufacture of shoes, gloves, haberdashery, clothing, also serves as a filtering and polishing material. High-quality shoe suede is obtained from the skins of deer calf, outgrowth and Russian short-tailed sheep, technical - from the sheepskin of Russian long-tailed sheep, wiping - from the skins of adult deer, Russian sheepskin. Suede is characterized by high ductility and porosity, which makes it highly airtight. Suede is characterized by the fact that it allows water to pass through, but becomes waterproof as it swells. A feature in the manufacture of suede is the removal of the front layer and finishing both from the front side (reindeer suede) and from bakhtarmyan (sheepskin suede).

A clasp is a device that is designed to join diverging edges or ends of leather goods, clothing and footwear.

A zipper is a closure that consists of two straps with links. It connects when the castle moves.

Tightening pliers are pliers with a hammer for manual tightening and tightening of a workpiece on a block.

AND

Wear resistance is the resistance of materials and products to mechanical wear.

Impregnation is a type of leather filling, impregnation of leather with high molecular weight compounds such as latex and resins. It increases the water resistance and wear resistance of the sole leather, but at the same time, to some extent, it reduces their hygienic properties.

Artificial leather is a general definition of a material that has an appearance and some consumer properties similar to natural leather. A narrower meaning is interpreted by I.K. as a material in which a polymer coating is applied over a textile base.

Artificial front surface of leather is the surface of natural leather, which has been refined by applying a layer of a polymer film instead of the removed natural front layer.

The true density of the skin is the ratio of the mass of the skin to the volume of its dense substance (excluding pores).

TO

The heel is the outer part of the bottom of the shoe, it is used to raise the heel of the foot to a certain height.

Heels are classified:

1. In height - heels up to 29mm are considered low, medium - from 30 to 49mm, high - from 50 to 60mm, and especially high - above 60 mm;
2. By type: columns, hairpins, French, talated, English straight heels, Viennese, fitted, widened to the heel, wedge-shaped and others;
3. By material: wooden heel, plastic, rubber, leather (type-setting), combined;
4. By design: whole, multi-layer, with and without liner, with pressed-in bushings and without bushings, with a lightweight cavity and without cavities, whole with an imitated heel, with grooves, with a slot on the front surface for refueling when tight, with metal nozzles;
5. By the way it is positioned on the shoe: sole, platform, footprint in tight shoes.

Natural rubber is a material that is obtained from the milky sap (latex) of rubbery plants, mainly from Brazilian giwa. It is mainly composed of polyisoprene. The material is used as an additive in solution adhesives based on synthetic rubbers, and is also used for the manufacture of rubber glue.

Synthetic rubber is a product of joint polymerization of butadiene, isoprene or chloroprene and a number of other components. It is used to make rubber compounds and adhesives. It happens: styrene butadiene rubber, nitrile butadiene rubber, isoprene rubber, chloroprene rubber.

Cedar is an outer part of leather goods, it strengthens the seam structures, stabilizes the shape of the product and has a decorative purpose.

Kirgolin is an imitation leather with a rubber coating on a cotton fabric, it is designed for the tops of boots.

Kirza is a rubber-coated cotton fabric that is used to make boots.

The flap is an outer part of shoes and leather goods, it serves to close a product or a pocket, mainly along the entire length of the wall. The small flap should only partially cover the product or pocket. In shoes - inner lining parts are installed under the zipper.

Kozhvolon is a sole rubber with similar hardness, thickness, plasticity to the skin.

Leather goods are products made of natural, artificial leather or fabrics that are used for carrying and storing various items, protecting hands from external influences, fixing items (suitcases, briefcases, wallets, bags).

Raw hides are animal skins that are used for the production of leather.

Kozlin is the skin of a goat.

A collection of footwear is a collection of models, systematized according to certain criteria: age and gender, seasonal, author's.

The last is a technological tooling made of plastic, metal or wood, it is on it that the upper of the shoe acquires the given outlines and dimensions.

The construction of the shoe is the internal structure of the shoe, the presence of certain details in it and their mutual arrangement. Structurally, footwear is subdivided according to the following characteristics: type, internal dimensions and shape, material, presence, size and shape of parts, method of their connection, according to historical type. Most commonly, the term Shoe Construction is used to refer to a variety that differs in the location and way of joining different parts in a shoe.

A joint is a part of the bottom of a shoe that is designed to protect it from wear and tear.

Koturni are sandals with soles that go up to 40 cm in height. They were worn by the tragic actors of the ancient theater. The thicker sole betrayed the actor's height and showed him tall and visible on stage.

Cross-country shoes are shoes such as low shoes or boots, designed for sports and outdoor activities.

Shoe hook - the name of accessories for lacing shoes.

L

Latex is an aqueous dispersion with a content of natural or synthetic rubber up to 40%. Raw materials for rubber compounds, injection molding compounds, shoe adhesives.

The facial layer of skin is the name of the upper part of the skin, formed by a dense network of fibers in the upper part of the papillary layer.

Lobash is an area of ​​skin that has been removed from the forehead of an animal.

The ankle is the protrusion in the joint of the shin bone, which is formed by the tibia and fibula. The outer ankle is located below the inner ankle.

M

Boys' shoes - a specific group of shoes for teenage boys, foot length 230-255mm. It was more often used in Soviet and Russian GOSTs.

Skin stain is a defect that is expressed in the fact that the skin can contaminate the surfaces in contact with it. As a result, there is a violation of the dyeing regime or the use of a fragile dye.

Dullness is a blemish that appears as areas of reduced sheen on the front surface of soft artificial leather.

Shoe machines are devices that perform mechanical movements. These movements replace complex manual shoe-making operations. Differ: sewing machines - used for stitching workpiece parts, lingering machines - for tightening the top, tightening; machines for finishing and auxiliary operations: machines for hot polishing of the edge, bending, removing shoes from the last, and measuring machines for measuring and testing.

The meander zipper is a zipper - a zipper, its plastic links are a spiral that is attached to the main strap.

The flesh is the layer of skin that is detached from the dermis during the leather dressing process.

Mereya is a natural pattern of the front surface of the skin.

Shoe attachment methods are methods of attaching the bottom of the shoe to the top using auxiliary means: screws, nails, hairpins, threads, glue. The outsole attaches to the top of the shoe and the insole. Rantu, wraparound platform. There are several groups of MCO: chemical; combined, mechanical.

Shoe modeling is the process of developing a new shoe model. The direction of fashion, the properties of materials, the appearance of a person are taken into account.

The model is the newest specimen in appearance, shape and material.

Model shoes are footwear, the design of which is focused on modern fashion trends.

Moccasins are shoes whose upper blank with a sewn-in insert represents a constructive unity with the insole along the entire track or in the toe-bun section.

Men's footwear is a specific group of footwear designed specifically for men. Massively produced by the industry from 24.5 to 30.5 sizes.

N

Stuffing is a method for finishing textile materials by hand or by machine; production is carried out in slabs or shafts, which have patterns cut out on the surface, filled with paint.

The heel is the outer bottom of the shoe that attaches to the bottom of the heel.

Overlay:

1. The name of the outer part of the bottom of the shoe; it is attached to the bottom of the sole with the entire surface or in the toe-tuft part to increase the anti-slip, heat-shielding properties and wear resistance of the product.
2. The upper fixed part of the lock, which is fixed on one of the closed sides of the leather goods.

An overhead welt is an outer part of the bottom of the shoe that increases the strength of the seam, which bonds the sole to the upper blank and improves the appearance of the shoe with dopple and sandal fastening methods.

The outer arch of the foot is the arch of the foot, which is formed by the calcaneus, talus, cuboid, fourth and fifth metatarsal bones. It performs a supporting function. Its height, on average, is 2 cm.

The heel cap is a preliminary attachment of the heel to the shoe with or without a glued sole. The attachment is made on the attachment nails from the outside through the holes drilled in the heels or in the heel of the shoe, thanks to screwing a screw into the heel.

National footwear is a part of the national costume, footwear with designs characteristic of a particular people. Shoes that were made using traditional materials and decorative elements.

Unpaired - shoe blemish / defect. Difference of half pairs according to size, thickness, color or finish.

A non-glued sole is an area defect in the shoe. It manifests itself in the presence of local stripping of the soles; manifests itself as a consequence of violations of the technological regime of smearing, drying, activation, pressing.

Bearing welt is an outer detail of the bottom of a shoe welded, welted - stitched or "parko" fastening methods. A sole or backing is attached to it.

A thread is a finely or tightly twisted natural, artificial or synthetic fibers.

The toe is the outer part of the upper of the shoe. It covers the back of the toes.

Nubuck is a chrome-tanned fleecy leather with a front surface sanded with fine-grained abrasive materials. It is applicable in the manufacture of haberdashery and shoe upper parts.

O

Outline is an intermediate piece of footwear in the form of a strip made of natural or artificial leather. It is attached to the edge of the non-running surface of the sole and ensures a snug fit to the trail of the tightened shoe.

1. The process of tightening the pads with a blank of the top and the process of attaching it to the insole in the forefoot with nails or staples.
2. The outer part of the shoe that covers the side and front surfaces of the heel or the end of the platform.

Shoes are a product for protecting the feet from external influences. Shoes have utilitarian and aesthetic functions. It is classified by purpose, material, method of joining parts, height and construction of the top and bottom.

Edging is the sewing on or gluing of a tape to decorate and reinforce the edges of the upper parts of the shoe that have been previously trimmed.

Pinning of tightened shoes is the process of leveling out bumps and folds on the tightening edge of a workpiece, which occurs under pressure from heated plates or impacts.

Opanki is a shoe that is made with an onboard or glued fastening method. With these methods, a molded outsole with a collar is attached to the upper with glue, thread, or braiding with a cord.

The main insole is the inner part of the bottom of the shoe, to which the tightening edge of the upper blank and the bottom part of the shoe is attached.

Shoe finish:

1. Final processing of footwear in order to give it a presentation.
2. Shoe decor (embroidery, applique).

Open shoes are shoes in which the toe, heel and heel portions are open.

NS

Pantolettes are a type of shoe with a tape upper that covers the instep of the foot.

Pant shoes are shoes that have an open heel.

Stretching is the stretching of the glove skins in the required directions until the required permanent elongation is obtained.

Booties are shoes with soft soles, suitable for babies up to one year old.

Platform:

1. This is an intermediate part of the bottom of the shoe, its shape corresponds to the toe-tuft part of the sole or its entire surface.
2. Thick molded outsole.

Beach shoes are a type of footwear with a lightweight construction for the beach, pool, sauna.

The outsole is the outer part of the bottom of the shoe, its shape and size corresponds to the toe-bun part of the sole, its purpose is to increase its wear resistance.

The sub-outfit is the inner part of the upper of the shoe, its shape and size corresponds to the front of the feet.

A toe cap is an intermediate piece in the upper part of the shoe that is installed in the toe section to maintain its shape.

The toe pad is an inner part of the upper of an open shoe that matches the shape of the toe of the main insole and acts as an insert insole.

The sole is the main outer part of the bottom of the shoe, which is located under the entire plantar surface of the foot.

A molded sole is a sole that has been made from rubber compounds or polymer compositions by molding or pressing. A molded sole is usually profiled, that is, it has different thicknesses in different areas.

The heel pad is the inner part of the upper of the shoe that matches the shape of the heel of the main insole. Its function is a removable insole.

Rise is the name given to the convex surface of the dorsum of the foot from the metatarsal bones to the ankle.

Fullness of shoes - this is how the girth (in the inner shape of the shoe) in bundles is conventionally denoted, this is one of the main characteristics of the fit of the shoe.

Ankle boots are a type of footwear with ankle boots that have attachments for attaching to the foot. The top of the low shoes covers the entire dorsum of the foot.

Ankle boots are a type of shoe with a shaft that extends to the mid-calf. The model variety of ankle boots is called ankle boots.

Half insole - this is the name of the inner or intermediate part of the bottom of the shoe, in shape and size it must correspond to the heel-and-gel part of the main insole.

Skin porosity is the name given to the ratio of the volume of pores in the skin to the total volume of the skin.

Pistons are a primitive design for one-piece shaped shoes.

Cork is the outermost layer of the covering tissue of plants and is best developed in the cork oak. Gas-tight and very lightweight material. It is used for soles, mainly in summer footwear.

Industrial footwear is a type of footwear for workers of various specialties, it is made without the use of protective materials or parts.

Tread soles are thick soles with deeply grooved treads for added traction.

A profiled sole is a molded sole that has different thicknesses in different areas.

A stitch is the name of a shoe upper part in the form of a strip of material, which is located between the rear edges of the bootleg, the function is to increase the strength and water resistance of the seam.

A buckle is a fastener that is designed to connect the elements of products with a belt or acts as an element of its decoration.

Pointe shoes are solid toe shoes for ballet shoes. They allow you to dance at your fingertips with an extended instep.

Puklya is the name of a metal part in the form of a convex button. It is attached with bending teeth. 1. In leather goods, they are installed on the bottom to protect the material from wear due to direct contact with a hard surface. In footwear, pukli has mainly aesthetic functions.

R

Size is a measure that characterizes the length of the foot or insole of a shoe in metric system. In the Russian Federation, the following shoe size is used:

1. The length of the footprint in millimeters.
2. In the shtihmass system, this is the length of the insole in stitches (1 stitch - 23 cm).
3. In the inch system - the length of the insole is defined in units of 13 or 16 inches.

Rant is the outer part of the shoe. It serves to bond the insole to the sole and upper.

The welted insole is the main insole that has a lip. The lingering edges of the top blank and welt are attached to it.

The rational rate of footwear consumption is the amount of footwear that the average consumer needs in the existing climatic and social conditions per year.

Sustainable footwear is the type of footwear, the construction, the materials used, the inner shape - all comply with medical, hygienic and environmental standards.

Shoe rubber is an elastic material formed as a result of vulcanization of rubber. It is used for the manufacture of various parts of the top and bottom of shoes. According to the structure, there is a distinction between porous and non-porous rubber shoes. More recently, thermoplastic models of rubber shoes have been developed, which are used to make the bottom of shoes by the injection method.

A rubber shoe is a type of shoe in which the bottom and top parts are made primarily of rubber. Rubber footwear includes rubber boots, galoshes, boots, as well as rubber-textile shoes, with a textile upper and a rubber bottom (for example, gym shoes, semi-sneakers).

WITH

Clogs are wooden shoes, considered the national footwear of the inhabitants of Holland and Belgium. France and many other countries. In everyday life, the term clogs is used for summer shoes, like slippers with a thicker sole.

Sandals are summer low shoes or shoes with a perforated top and a hard back.

Sandals are unlined shoes for men and children. The upper part of this shoe covers the back of the foot.

Boots are a type of shoe with a high shaft that covers the foot, lower leg, and sometimes the thigh.

A shoemaker is a craftsman who specializes in making and repairing shoes.

The shoe mark is the part of the shoe that corresponds to the last mark.

The vamp is the outer part of the upper of the shoe. It covers the dorsum of the metatarsus of the foot.

Special footwear is footwear that uses special materials and parts to protect the feet from hazardous influences. For example, rigging shoes with metal protective toe caps, or special steel-making shoes.

Athletic shoes are specially designed shoes that are designed for a variety of sports. For example, track and field spikes, wrestling boots, football boots, ski boots.

The insole is the inner part of the shoe. It is located under the entire plantar surface of the foot.

The degree of staining is the ratio of the thickness of the pelt painted with a tanning agent to the entire thickness.

The foot is the lower part of a person's leg, which performs a support and shock-absorbing function when standing, walking or running. Consists of the tarsus, metatarsus and toes.

An instep support is a roller that supports the arch of the foot with flat feet. It often acts as part of an orthopedic insole.

Damp is unburned leather. It is produced from the skins of cattle: pig, camel, elk by fattening and breaking. Designed for the manufacture of saddlery and technical products.

T

1. A brand that is burned on the skin or horns during the branding of animals.
2. The defect of the skin, which is a consequence of the mark burned on it.

Wedge heel - this is a thickened heel sole on women's shoes.

Technical leather is vegetable, chrome and combined tanned leather produced from cattle hide. Its purpose is the production of drive belts, leather parts for cars and other technical equipment. products.

Embossing is the embossing of a pattern on the front surface of the leather using a hand or mechanical press.

Shoes are a type of shoe whose upper blank does not completely cover the back of the foot. Types of shoes:

1. boat (with a top that has a seam in the heel or side of the workpiece);
2. boat with an adjustable strap or T-shaped clasps;
3. split (with split vamp and heel strap);
4. summer open (with variations of open closed toes and heels)

Have

High fur boots are a warmed fur boot. Northern peoples make high fur boots by hand using reindeer fur. High boots, which were made industrially, received leather vamp and backs. Felt sole, bootleg and fur insole.

The ears are a part of the upper of the shoe in the form of a loop; it is connected to the bootlegs or ankle boots with threads to increase the convenience of putting on the shoes.

F

A style is the external shape of a product, which is created using the design, color and texture of the surface of the materials.

Molding is a method of making shoes from polymer compositions, whereby a certain portion of the molten material is fed under pressure into a mold. There, the melt takes on a given shape and fixes it. This helps to obtain various details of the shoe: sole, heel, workpiece.

Fittings are auxiliary products that serve to fasten, lock, attach, reinforce and decorate products.

The boot is the inner detail of the top of the boot. It matches the shaft in shape and size.

NS

Chrome tanning is tanning with aqueous solutions of basic salts of trivalent chromium. They are classified according to the method: single-phase, two-phase, two bathrooms, "original".

H

Chuvyaki is a type of indoor shoe with a heel that does not exceed 5 mm in height.

NS

Shagreen is a leather made from goat or sheep skins, it has a characteristic grain pattern.

Shargolin is an artificial leather on a fabric coated with a polyvinyl chloride composition, intended for the tops of boots.

Chevret is a chrome-tanned leather designed for the tops of shoes and haberdashery, made from sheepskin.

Chevro is a chrome-tanned leather designed for the upper of shoes, which was made from goat, an area of ​​not more than 60 dm3 in a cube.

A lace is a thin, most often knitted, cord that is used to secure the shoe to the foot.

The shank is an internal detail of the upper of the shoe, it is used to strengthen the upper edge of the workpiece.

NS

Yuftin is an artificial leather on a fabric with a polyvinyl chloride coating for the tops of insulated boots.

Yuft is a leather for shoe uppers of combined tanning, produced from cattle skins, horse skins and pork skins, exclusively with increased contents of fatty substances.

I AM

The tongue is the outer part of the upper of the boots or low boots, which is located under the ankle boots in order to protect the foot from the inconvenience that can be caused by blocks and laces.

The main function of the shoe- protection of the human leg from the adverse effects of external factors (moisture, dirt, low and high temperatures, electric current, insect bites and
etc.) and the creation of comfort for work and rest of the foot. Leather shoes include shoes with a top made of natural leather, textile and knitted materials, artificial and synthetic leather and with a combined top made of the listed materials.

Types of leather shoes

The basis for dividing shoes into types is the height of the top blank or the degree of closure of the foot and lower leg by the details of the top of the shoe. Shoes are divided into five main types: boots, low boots, boots, low shoes, shoes. Boots, ankle boots, moccasins, sandals, pantolettes, opanks, chuvyaki, sandals are varieties of the main types of footwear.

Details of leather shoes

Rice. 9. Shoe details

1 - sock; 2 - vamp; 3 - tibia; 4 - back; 5 - rear outer belt; 6 - tongue;
7 - bartack; 8 - sole; 9 - welt; 10 - heel; 11 - lining; 12 - subblock;
13 - shtafka; 14 - back inner belt; 15 - sidewall; 16 - vamp lining;
17 - insole; 18 - back; 19 - toe; 20 - heel pad; 21 - forgiving; 22 - shank.

According to the functions performed and the protection of certain parts of the foot, they are divided into details of the top and details of the bottom of the shoe (Fig. 9). The upper details cover the back and sides of the foot and define the aesthetic properties of the shoe. The bottom details are located under the footprint (plantar surface) of the foot and protect it from the adverse effects of the soil. According to the location of the parts in the shoes, they are divided into external, internal and intermediate (Table 8, Fig. 9). According to the degree of wear and tear in the process of wearing shoes, they are divided into responsible and less responsible. The responsible details of the top include the sock, vamp, front, rear outer belt, bottom of the shoe - sole, outer outsole, lining, main insole, welt, heel, heel. Critical parts are subject to intense wear, therefore

Table 8

Details of leather shoes

Shoe details	Type of footwear
		Ankle boots, boots, low shoes
Outdoor Internal Outdoor Internal	Shoe upper details
	Bootleg Rear outer Sub-outfit Filing Rear inner strap Hard back Hard toe	Rear outer Bartack Lining Rear inner strap Shtaferka Podklochniki Hook pads Hard back Hard toe Lining Sidewall Mezhsublochniki	Rear outer strap Lining Hard back Hard toe Lining Sidewall
	Details of the bottom of the shoe
	Outsole Overlay Main insole Insole Half insole Heel pad Instep support Forgiveness Substrate

they are cut from the most durable, thick and dense materials. The number, shape, size and mutual arrangement of parts, methods of connecting them together can be different and depend on the type, design and purpose of the shoe.

Classification and characteristics of the range of leather shoes

In the All-Russian classifier of products (OK 005), leather footwear is classified as class 88, which is divided into 8 subclasses according to the type of upper material: 1) yuft footwear; 2) chrome shoes (including suede, sandal leather, hairy leather upper); 3) shoes with a top of their textile materials, felt, felt, knitted fabrics; 4) shoes with synthetic leather upper; 5) shoes with artificial leather upper;
6) footwear with a combined top made of yuft and artificial leather; 7) footwear with a combined upper made of chrome and artificial or synthetic leather; 8) shoes with a combined upper made of textile materials, felt, felt and leather.

The subclass includes 8 groups of footwear by gender and age: 1) men; 2) female; 3) for boys from 245 (38) to 280 (43.5) sizes, designed for boys aged 11 to
14 years old; 4) maiden sizes from 225 (35) to 255 (40), designed for girls from 11 to 16 years old; 5) school from 205 (32) to 240 (37.5), intended for schoolchildren from 7 to 11 years old; 6) preschool from 170 (27) to 200 (31.5), intended for children from 5 to 7 years old; 7) small children from 145 (23) to 165 (26), intended for children from 3 to
5 years; 8) the eighth group is free; 9) booties and toddler shoes - booties from 95 (16) to 125 (20), for children under one year old, toddler shoes - from 105 (17) to 140 (22.5), for children from one year old to three years.

Booties- boots or shoes; the blank of the upper and the sole are made of soft natural leather (except for yuft), textile materials and are connected by a set-in fastening method. Artificial and synthetic materials are not allowed for the manufacture of booties.

Depending on the purpose of the footwear, the group is divided into 7 subgroups: 1) casual footwear; 2) model (designed for short-term wear on special occasions, corresponding to the requirements of fashion); 3) sports (intended for practicing various sports); 4) lightweight (lightweight shoes, in which either the main insole is absent, or hard toe caps and backs, or other details), these include booties, sandals, gym shoes, chuvyaki, travel shoes, hospital and sports (household) shoes, and others); 5) home (footwear for wearing at home), 6) industrial (footwear for general works without the use of protective materials and parts); 7) orthopedic (shoes, the design of which is developed taking into account pathological abnormalities in the foot, lower leg and thigh). Subgroups are divided into types and varieties: 1) boots; 2) ankle boots; 3) boots; 4) ankle boots; 5) boots; 6) low shoes; 7) shoes; 8) summer shoes and sandals.

Boots- the main type of shoe, the tops of which cover the calf.

Ankle boots- the main type of footwear with ankle boots that reach half of the calf.

Boots and ankle boots the height of the tops and ankle boots correspond to boots and ankle boots and are their varieties, differ from them by the presence of various decorations and trimmings, they can be with or without a zipper, on laces, buckles and
etc., do not provide for the presence of a thick inner underwear (footcloths, thick socks), are worn on a thin hosiery. They are produced in low, medium, high and extra high heels, and winter ones with a warmed lining.

Boots- the main type of shoe with ankle boots that cover the ankle and reach the beginning of the calf.

Low shoes- the main type of shoe, the boot of which is below the ankle, and the upper blank covers the entire back surface of the foot.

Shoes- the main type of shoe, the boot of which is below the ankle, and the upper blank does not completely cover the back surface of the foot.

Summer shoes are a type of shoes, according to the design and materials used, they are intended to be worn in the summer, they can have open toe and (or) heel and (or) heel parts, they are often made without lining or with lining under individual parts, the upper blank has through perforations , large notches or consists of separate straps for better ventilation of the foot.

Sandals- summer footwear, the top preparation of which corresponds in height to low shoes, but has perforations of various shapes and sizes.

Pantolet- a kind of shoes. The upper blank consists only of a vamp that covers the dorsum of the foot.

Opanki- a variety of women's summer shoes with side or stitching and glue fastening methods.

In the All-Russian Classifier of Products, the types and varieties of leather footwear are assigned a six-digit code. For example, 88 1111 - casual boots for men, with a leather top, 88 2223 - fashion boots for women, with a top made of genuine leather, except for leather, 88 3557 - indoor shoes, school shoes, with a top made of textile materials. OKP code (or OK 005) is indicated in certificates of conformity issued for domestic and imported footwear.

In addition to the listed features, leather shoes are divided according to the type of sole material, the methods of fastening the bottom, the height of the heel, the color of the outer parts of the upper, the method of manufacture, styles, models, and other features.

By the type of material, the soles are distinguished:

• shoes with leather soles for the bottom of the shoes;
• from leather for the top of shoes and lining;
• porous and non-porous rubber;
• leather fiber, styronipa, transparent rubber;
• polyurethane;
• polyvinyl chloride;
• thermoplastic elastomer;
• artificial and synthetic leather for the upper of the shoes;
• felt and felt;
• wood.

According to the methods of fastening the bottom distinguish between hairpin, thread, chemical and combined fastening methods (Fig. 10).

Hairpin methods are represented by two: screw and nail... They are used for the manufacture of industrial footwear, footwear for the army and navy, less often for everyday use. The shoes are heavy, tough, inflexible, the fastening provides them with high strength, water resistance, reliability.

Rice. 10. Methods for attaching the bottom of the shoe:

a - nail; b - stitched; c - sandal; g - doppel; d - welted;
e - welded; g - parko, h - inverted; and - glue; k - hot vulcanization;
l - welt-adhesive; m - stitching and glue; 1 - blank; 2 - insole; 3 - cover;
4 - sole; 5 - substrate; 6 - a nail; 7 - thread seam; 8 - soft insole.

TO thread methods fastenings include welt, sandal, dopple, parko, stitching, welt-stitching, side, inverted, set-in, etc. The sole is fastened to the workpiece using one- and two-thread seams. Use nylon, nylon, less often linen threads. Thread fastening shoes are lighter, softer, flexible, hygienic, but less durable and reliable than screw and nail. The strength of the thread fastening of the sole depends on the density and thickness of the fastened parts. These methods are used to make casual, fashion, indoor and sports shoes for children and adults.

At welted method the sole is attached to the workpiece and the main insole through the welt, a welted insole with a lip is used. External distinctive features - the presence of a welt, the absence of fasteners on the surface of the main insole in the toe-bundle and heel part. Welding footwear is the most reliable, heat-protective and maintainable in comparison with footwear of other thread methods. However, due to the increased labor intensity, the welt method is used to a limited extent for the manufacture of men's and women's shoes, everyday and model, summer and insulated.

Sandal method used to make sandals. Distinctive features - the absence of a lining and the main insole, soft socks, the lingering edge of the workpiece bends outward and goes to the edge of the sole, the presence of a patch welt, the sole seam holds the sole, the lingering edge of the workpiece and the patch welt. The shoes are very light and flexible, but they deform when moistened and dried, and are not reliable enough.

Doppelny (semi-sandal) the method differs from the sandal one by the presence of an insole and a lining, the lower edge of which is folded over and attached to the insole; shoes are less flexible, but more reliable to wear and less deformed when wet and dry. They produce summer and insulated footwear for children and adults.

Parko method developed at the Paris Commune shoe factory. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that the welt is sewn to the lingering edge of the workpiece even before it is formed, after which the workpiece is molded, then the sole is sewn to the welt. This method is used to make children's shoes. Outwardly, it looks like a welt. But if you press the top off the welt, you can see the thread seam that holds the welt to the workpiece. The parko method has three varieties. There is no main insole in Parko I shoes; removing the insole from the shoe, you can see the seam that secures the welt to the workpiece. In parko II shoes (welt reaches the heel) and parko III (circular welt), the lower edge of the workpiece and the welt sewn to it are fastened to the main insole with tex (small studs), which are visible on the insole inside the shoe. Parko I shoes are lighter, more flexible, but less form-stable and reliable than Parko II and III, therefore they are produced for younger children, and Parko II and III shoes are for older children.

Sewing method It is distinguished by the presence of a through thread seam on the sole and insole, the absence of welts, it is used for the manufacture of sports, home and travel footwear.

In the welded method use a regular insole without a lip. The welt is sewn to the workpiece and the insole with a through seam, then the sole is sewn to the welt. This method is less laborious and material-intensive than welted. However, the shoes are inferior to welted ones in terms of reliability and convenience; it is easy to distinguish by the presence of a seam on the insole.

Airborne method differs in that a sole with a rim is used, and the seam that holds the sole with the workpiece is located above the edge of the track. The shoes are lightweight, flexible and comfortable to wear. They produce opanks, shoes and low shoes for summer and spring-autumn purposes.

Inversion method chuvyaki, indoor and travel shoes are made. They do not have a main insole; the sole is leather or felt. The sole is cut from the bakhtarma at a distance of 12-14 mm from the edge along the entire perimeter - a lip is obtained. The workpiece is turned inside out, and the pulling edge is sewn to the lip. After fastening, the shoes are turned inside out on the front side, a cardboard insole, pasted over with a cloth, is put inside the shoes. The shoes are lightweight, soft and flexible.

Set-in method make booties (footwear for newborns) and gym shoes. For the sole, soft leather is used, for the upper and lining of shoes - felt, fabrics, knitted fabrics. The sole with the workpiece is connected with a stitching seam. The shoe lacks the main insole, hard backs and toes. These are lightweight, soft, flexible shoes.

TO chemical methods fastenings include glue, hot vulcanization, injection molding.

The glue method is most widely used. The sole is attached to the workpiece with glue. Nairite, perchlorovinyl, nitrocellulose, polyurethane and other adhesives are used. The advantage of this method is its versatility. They can make footwear for any purpose (everyday, model, sports, home), for different seasonal and gender and age purposes, from various materials. The strength of the adhesive bond does not depend on the thickness of the fastened parts. The footwear is light and flexible, has a low material consumption, and is easy to perform. Of course, they are less reliable than nail-fastened shoes; its hygienic properties are lower in comparison with the thread method shoe.

Hot vulcanization method allows you to get a very strong, tight connection between the sole and the workpiece. Shoes are distinguished by high moisture-proof properties, reliability in wear. Upper materials must be heat resistant. Rubber is used for the sole and heel. They produce casual footwear (summer and insulated), home and industrial footwear. Not applicable for model footwear. There are two types of hot vulcanization: press and boiler. In the first case, the sole is molded, vulcanized and attached to the workpiece in one mold. Press-vulcanized footwear can be distinguished by the presence of traces of extrusions from the joint of the half-matrices of the mold in the toe and heel parts of the sole, as well as by the trademark of a shoe factory on the heel part of the sole on the running side. During boiler vulcanization, parts made of a raw rubber compound (sole, heel, obsoyuzku, etc.) are first glued to the workpiece. Then vulcanization is carried out in special boilers. Boiler-vulcanized shoes can be recognized by the rubber parts glued to the upper part.

Injection method... In one mold, the sole is molded and attached to the workpiece. For soles, thermoplastic polymers are used: polyurethane, polyvinyl chloride, thermoplastic elastomers, polyethylene, etc. Used for the manufacture of everyday, model, home, sports and industrial footwear. Its properties are close to press-vulcanized footwear. It differs in the presence of a sprue mark on the sole, the sole has sharper edges and a mirror shine, you can get thinner soles and more elegant shoes.

Combined methods fastenings are a combination of two different methods, more often thread with chemical ones. For example, welt-glue (Fig. 10 l), dopple-glue, sandal-glue, glue-stitched, stitch-glue (Fig. 10 m), nail-glue, etc.

According to the height of the heel, shoes are divided into 5 groups:

• without heel;
• low heel (5 to 25 mm);
• medium (26-45 mm);
• high (46-60 mm);
• extra high (over 60 mm).

Children's shoes are made only with low heels; it is allowed to make girls' shoes with medium heels. High and extra high heels are used to make only women's shoes, mostly model ones.

Heels glued or attached with pins (nails, screws, metal bushings). Medium and high heels are attached in a combined way (pin-and-glue). Heaps are glued, attached with nails or special pins.

According to the color of the outer parts of the top shoes are divided into black, brown, bright (red, burgundy, blue, blue, dark gray, yellow), light (light gray, beige), white, multicolored (two or more colors).

By manufacturing method distinguish between mechanical and manual footwear. In the manufacture of hand-made footwear, individual operations are performed manually.

Shoe style is determined by the shape and size of its toe, the shape and height of the heel.

Shoe model- a specific product, which has individual characteristics of construction, materials and external design of shoes.

Quality control of leather shoes

Quality control includes two stages:

• checking shoes by their appearance;
• verification of physical and mechanical indicators of the quality of footwear.

At the first stage, the conformity of the batch of footwear to the reference sample, the type of footwear, the correctness of its labeling and packaging is checked. The manufacturer checks every pair of shoes in a batch; the seller can carry out this check selectively in accordance with GOST 9289-78 "Shoes. Acceptance rules". Depending on the volume of a batch of shoes, GOST 9289-78 sets the sample size (first and second). A sample from a batch is selected by random selection: the first pair is selected randomly, and all subsequent ones - through the same number of pairs x, equal to the quotient of dividing the total number of pairs of shoes in the batch N by the sample size n or x = N / n. In addition, GOST 9289-78 establishes acceptance and rejection numbers for the first and second samples. If, as a result of checking the first sample, the number of pairs rejected is less than or equal to the acceptance number for the first sample, then the batch of shoes is considered accepted. If the number of defective pairs is greater than or equal to the rejection number for the first sample, then the entire batch is rejected. If the number of rejected pairs is greater than the acceptance number, but less than the rejection number, then the second sample is selected. Pairs from the first sample do not participate in the selection of shoes for the second sample. Based on the results of checking the second sample, the batch is accepted if the number of pairs of shoes that are rejected in two samples together is less than or equal to the acceptance number for the second sample. If the number of defective couples in two samples is greater than or equal to the marriage number for the second sample, then the lot is rejected. The interval between acceptance and rejection numbers for the second sample is equal to one.

Requirements for the appearance of leather footwear and the basic rules for sorting it are established in GOST 28371-89 "Footwear. Determination of grade", requirements for marking and packaging - in GOST 7296-81 "Footwear. Labeling, packaging, transportation and storage" and GOST R 51121 -97 "Non-food products. Information for the consumer. General requirements".

According to GOST 28371-89, leather footwear is divided into standard (or grade) and non-standard. Standard shoes must correspond to the reference model in terms of model, style of last and heel, materials and colors of the top, materials of the bottom, accessories used, the method of processing and finishing of the top and bottom, marking. It should be well formed, finished, free from spots, folds and wrinkles. The shoes are scored in pairs. Shoes in a pair should be the same in size and fullness, color, measure and surface texture of the materials. The grade of a pair of shoes is determined by the worst half pair and the most significant defect. At the same time, on a semi-pair, the number of names of defects allowed in standard shoes is not limited. Only the size of the defect, the degree of its severity and the location on the details are stipulated. So, in everyday assorted footwear on one half-pair, there may be 26 names of defects indicated in the table of GOST 28371-89, within acceptable limits, and in model shoes - 19 names of defects. The dimensions of the tolerances for fashion shoes are smaller than for everyday ones. The existing situation needs to be corrected by limiting the number of permissible defects on one half-pair of standard shoes.

GOST 28371-89 defines a list of "critical" defects that are unacceptable in standard footwear. These include: through damage to shoe parts; cracking, flaking and stickiness of the top and lining material covering film; inappropriate size and fullness of shoes; inappropriate shoe style; incorrect arrangement (connection) of parts; unsmoothed seam, poor seam connection; incorrectly set heel; non-glued sole; unsticked or torn lining; crevices between the details of the bottom of the shoe; hints; unfinished or poorly repaired damage; protruding mechanical fasteners; incorrect completing of pairs of shoes; instability of the skin cover; other defects, in the presence of which it is impossible to use the shoes for their intended purpose.

Sometimes shoes that have entered the trade and purchased by customers as completely sound, have hidden defects. During operation, such shoes quickly fail. Therefore, in order to protect the interests of buyers, GOSTs 5394-89, 1135-88, 19116-84, 26165-84, 26166-84, 26167-84 set warranty periods for socks for domestic footwear, during which the buyer has the right to present claims to the seller.

If during the warranty period, subject to the normal conditions of use and storage of shoes by the buyer, he discovers the following defects: through wear of the top, insoles and soles, shedding of the dye (coating), destruction of seams, fracture, split and separation of the heel, subsidence of the heel, then such shoes are subject to exchange, or at the request of the buyer, he can be refunded the full cost of the shoes on the day of purchase.

The duration of the warranty period for wearing shoes is set in days from the date of sale through or from the beginning of the season, and is differentiated depending on the type of sole material and the purpose of the leather shoes.

At the second stage, the shoes are checked for physical and mechanical quality indicators: weight, flexibility, deformation of the toe cap and heel counter, the strength of shoe fasteners, water resistance (for leather footwear), linear dimensions and thickness of parts. Both the manufacturer and the seller carry out this check only selectively, since this leads to the destruction of the shoes. The sample is selected by random selection from the total number of pairs of shoes in the batch that have passed the check for appearance. Pairs rejected at the first stage of quality control do not participate in the second. To determine the deformation of the toe and back, linear dimensions (the height of the shoe, heel and back, the length and width of individual parts), flexibility, 0.1% of the number of pairs in the batch that have been tested for appearance is taken, but not less than one pair; to determine the mass of shoes - 0.1%, but not less than three pairs; to determine the water resistance of shoes - 0.2%, but not less than two pairs; to determine the thickness of the parts, the strength of the fastening of the heel, heel, sole with the blank of the top, the parts of the bottom to each other, the joints of the parts of the blank - 0.05%, but not less than one pair. If at least one indicator of the selected samples of footwear does not meet the requirements of the standards, then for this indicator, repeated tests are carried out, but on a doubled number of pairs. Samples of shoes for the second sample are taken from the same batch, pairs from the first sample are not included in the second. Re-inspection results are valid for the entire batch.

Labeling, packaging, transportation and storage of leather shoes

Requirements for footwear marking are regulated by GOST R 51121-97 "Non-food goods. Information for consumers. General requirements" and GOST 7296-81 "Footwear. Marking, packaging, transportation and storage". The marking must be in Russian, unambiguously understandable, complete and reliable. It can be fully or partially duplicated in foreign languages.

The marking must contain the following data:

• product name - type of footwear;
• manufacturer's name - Russia;
• the name of the manufacturer - CJSC MOF "Parizhskaya Kommuna";
• the main purpose of the product or its area of ​​application is everyday or home footwear, or industrial footwear, etc .; generic and age-specific designation of shoes (for men, women, boys, girls, school, preschool, etc.);
• rules and conditions for safe storage, transportation, safe and efficient use;
• main consumer properties or characteristics - the type of materials for the upper, sole and lining; color of the top material; size and fullness of shoes; information on the protective properties of footwear (for special footwear);
• information on compulsory certification is applied by the manufacturer or seller only to goods subject to compulsory certification in Russia in the form of a conformity mark in accordance with GOST R 50460-92 "Conformity mark for compulsory certification. Form, dimensions and technical requirements";
• the legal address of the manufacturer or seller.
• The information specified in paragraphs 1-8 is mandatory when labeling imported and domestic footwear.
• For domestic footwear, the marking must be supplemented in accordance with the requirements of GOST 7296-81 in section 1 with the following information:
• designation regulatory document according to which the footwear was manufactured (GOST or OST, or TU);
• the manufacturer's trademark (if any);
• the date of issue (the month and the last two digits of the year are applied in Arabic numerals through a dot - 11.01);
• designation of the style of the shoe and (or) model number;
• with the stamp "CT".

In addition to the thirteen points listed, the manufacturer (or seller) can add the following information to the marking:

• information on voluntary certification (if any);
• footwear conformity mark information state standards(on a voluntary basis);
• barcode of the product;
• the warranty period for wearing shoes;
• other information necessary and interesting for the consumer.

Clauses 14-18 are not mandatory for marking: the manufacturer (or seller) has the right to apply all or some of them, or not apply any of them. However, the conformity of the goods with the declared information is a mandatory requirement for the manufacturer and the seller.

The information listed in paragraphs 1-8 (for imported footwear) and 1-13 (for domestic footwear) is applied to consumer packaging.

The shipping container must be similarly marked. It can be supplemented with information on the number of pairs of shoes in a shipping container with an indication of the size and fullness of the assortment; weight (gross); date of packaging; the number of the packer and the number of the shipping container.

Information can be applied in any way (typographic, or lithographic, or by hand with a stamp and
etc.), but in all cases it should be clear and easy to read, resistant to storage, transportation and sale of goods, not to reduce its quality.

Each half pair of leather shoes must be clearly marked with:

• manufacturer's trademark;
• the size;
• completeness;
• model number and (or) shoe style;
• designation of the normative documentation according to which the shoes were produced;
• date of issue;
• stamp "CT".

The information specified in paragraphs 5-7 is applied to domestic shoes. Marking is applied with indelible paint, hot stamping on one of the listed parts of both half pairs of shoes:

• lining under the ankle boots (on the left side of the upper part);
• rear inner strap;
• staple;
• flap under the zipper;
• the inner side of the upper part of the bootlegs or a leather lining at the place where the ears are attached, or between the ears in the front part of the bootlegs, or the front upper part of the lining at a distance of 25-40 mm from the upper edge in boots and boots;
• tag (PVC film or tape, or chemical fiber tape) attached to the lining.

The trademark or name of the manufacturer can be applied to the sole (in the heel portion), or to an insert insole, half insole, heel pad, or lining under the ankle boots.

The size and fullness are applied not only to the lining details or the inner side of the tops of unlined boots, but also to the running surface of the sole (in the heel or beam part) of each half pair.

Package

Shoes must be packed in consumer and (or) shipping containers. Cardboard boxes, paper bags, plastic bags are used as consumer packaging. Shoes of all types and purposes, except for yuft and special shoes, are packed in consumer containers in pairs. It is allowed to pack 5-10 pairs of booties, 2 pairs of shoes for small children, 4 pairs of toddler shoes in one cardboard box with preliminary packing of each pair in a polymer bag.

Model shoes, shoes with patent leather uppers, velor, nubuck, suede, white, light-colored, synthetic leather shoes are packed in pairs in cardboard boxes with soft paper or with a half-pair placed in a polymer bag. Inside each half-pair, under the toe and vamp, insert an insert made of box corton, plastic, soft crumpled paper or other materials to better preserve the shape of the shoe, protect it from deformation during transportation and storage. In the tops of boots and boots, except for those whose tops or tops are made of textiles, insert an insert made of box cardboard.

It is allowed to pack light footwear, home, travel, sports, gymnastic and hospital shoes in paper or plastic bags.

Cardboard boxes and packages must be tightly packed in the shipping container. Wooden (collapsible or non-collapsible) or corrugated cardboard boxes are used as shipping containers. Yuft and special footwear that does not have consumer packaging is placed in a shipping container; the bottom, walls and the top row of shoes are lined with wrapping paper. Weight (gross) of one packed box should not exceed 50 kg. Each shoe box must be fitted with a shipping label containing the same information as the shipping container label.

Transportation footwear can be produced by all types of transport. If shoes are transported in special containers, it is allowed to transport them in consumer containers.

Storage... Leather shoes should be stored in a dry, heated warehouse at an air temperature not lower than + 14 ° С and not higher than + 25 ° С and relative humidity air 50-80%. It is allowed to store footwear in consumer containers on racks or wooden flooring in stacks no more than 1.5 m high.The distance from the floor to the flooring or the bottom shelf of the rack must be at least 0.2 m. Boxes and boxes are placed at a distance of at least 1.0 m from the outer walls of the warehouse, heating and heating devices. Between racks, stacks and inner walls the warehouse must have aisles at least 0.7 m wide. Shoes must be protected from direct sunlight, vapors, gases and chemicals.

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-1.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe details. Design features shoes. ">

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-3.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Foot Shape and Size View"> Форма и размеры стопы Вид со стороны подошвы Вид с наружной стороны Вид с !} inside v II - middle (heel) part of the foot v I - front part of the foot v III - back (heel) part of the foot v 1 - toes; 2 - inner bundle; 3 - outer bundle; 4 - crest 3 (rise); 5 - the place of the bend of the foot; 6 - inner ankle; 7 - outer ankle

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-4.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Types of footwear v Sandal strap v Shoes v Low boots v Boots"> Виды обуви v Ремешково- сандальная v Туфли v Полуботинки v Ботинки v Сапоги 4!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-5.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe parts n All parts depending on their location in"> Детали обуви n Все детали в зависимости от их расположения в обуви подразделяются на детали верха и низа обуви. n Деталями верха обуви являются детали обуви, расположенные над плантарной частью стопы (покрывают стопу сверху), а детали низа находятся под плантарной частью стопы (располагаются между стопой и опорной поверхностью). n Заготовкой верха обуви называют комплект скрепленных между собой деталей верха обуви, закрывающий часть или всю тыльную поверхность стопы, голени или ее часть, а в некоторых случаях и бедро.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-6.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Classification of shoe parts Outdoor Inner (lining)"> Классификация деталей обуви Наружные Внутренние (подкладка) Промежуточные берцы задний внутренний боковинка голенище ремень задник задинка карманы межподблочник задний наружный подблочник межподкладка ремень подкладка подкрючочник закрепка поднаряд подносок носок подшивка окантовка подушечник перед футор прошва штафирка язычок Служат для союзка: круговая, сохранения формы настрочная, изделия. составная, с К каркасным также удлиненными относятся стелечные крыльями, целая, с материалы для обуви. язычком овальная вставка 6!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-7.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe parts n Outside parts refers to parts located on the outside"> Детали обуви n Наружными деталями называют детали, расположенные с внешней стороны обуви. В процессе эксплуатации обуви они подвергаются многократным изгибам, растяжениям, ударам, истиранию, действию увлажнений и высушиваний, грязи, света, переменных температур, а также воздействию агрессивных сред. Наружные детали формируют внешний вид обуви и отвечают за ее эстетическую привлекательность.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-8.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe upper outer parts n vamp - outer shoe upper part,"> Наружные детали верха обуви n союзка – наружная деталь верха обуви, закрывающая тыльную поверхность плюсны стопы; союзка может быть: по конструкции- настрочная (а, е), отрезная (и), составная(г, д), цельная(б, в); по форме- круговая (е, ж) и полукруговая (з).!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-9.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe upper outer parts n front - the outer part of the boot that covers the toes and"> Наружные детали верха обуви n перед - наружная деталь сапога, закрывающая пальцы и тыльную поверхность плюсны стопы; по конструкции бывает: вшивной, настрочной (а), втачной (в), с овальной вставкой, с отрезным носком.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-10.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe upper outer parts">!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-11.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Outer parts of shoe upper Ø 1 - cut-off sock"> Наружные детали верха обуви Ø 1 – отрезной носок Ø 2 – союзка Ø 3 – задинка Ø 4 – берец Ø 5 – накладная деталь берца Ø 6 – язычок Ø 7 – мягкий кант Ø 8 – фурнитура Ø 9 – закрепка Ø 10–строчечно- клеепрошивной метод крепления!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-12.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe upper outer parts n ankle boots - an outer part of the shoe upper that covers"> Наружные детали верха обуви n берцы – наружная деталь верха обуви, закрывающая тыльную поверхность пяточно-геленочной части стопы, иногда и части голени. По конструкции берцы бывают: настрочные (б, г), составные (в), с отрезной задинкой (а, б), цельные (г). nносок – наружная деталь верха обуви, закрывающая тыльную поверхность пальцев стопы. По конструкции носок может быть: отрезной, прямой, с удлинёнными крыльями, фигурный.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-13.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe upper outer parts n back cuff - outer part of the shoe upper that covers heel"> Наружные детали верха обуви n задинка – наружная деталь верха обуви, закрывающая пяточную часть стопы. По конструкции: сострочная, цельная. nголенище – наружная деталь сапога, закрывающая голень, иногда часть ее и бедра. По конструкции: вытяжное, настрочное, прикройное, цельное.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-14.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Outer parts of the shoe upper n insert is a functional or decorative detail,"> Наружные детали верха обуви n вставка – функциональная или декоративная деталь, применяемая в !} various designs the top of the shoe. Inserts are: according to function - insert of fronts, insert of vamp, moccasin; in shape - rectangular, oval; by design - composite, one-piece. Cover - by function - decorative, functional; by location: overlay on the vamp, ankle boots, bootlegs.

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-15.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe upper outer parts n wrap - outer shoe upper part that covers lateral"> Наружные детали верха обуви n обтяжка – наружная деталь верха обуви, закрывающая боковую и фронтальную поверхность каблука или торец платформы, подложки, стельки;!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-16.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Outside details of the upper of the shoe n tongue - the outside of the upper of the boots"> Наружные детали верха обуви n язычок – наружная деталь верха ботинок или полуботинок, расположенная под передней частью берцев для защиты стопы от повреждений блочками и давления шнурками. Язычок бывает: по конструкции –с накладками, составной, цельный; по форме- стандартный, удлинённый, укороченный, уширенный.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-17.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe upper outer parts valve is the outer part of the upper connected with"> Наружные детали верха обуви клапан – наружная деталь верха, соединенная с берцами или голенищами, или внутренняя деталь подкладки под застежку «молния» . По конструкции клапан бывает: боковой- расположен с внутренней или наружной стороны берца или голенища; глухой – боковыми сторонами пришивается к нижней стороне переднего края берца и выполняет функцию язычка и подблочника; полуглухой – боковыми сторонами пришивается к нижней стороне переднего края берца, не доходя до нижнего края подкрючечника, и выполняет функцию язычка и подблочника; круговой – боковыми стронами пришивается к верхней стороне переднего края берца и выполняет функцию язычка; n манжет (мягкий кант) – дополнительная деталь, улучшающая потребительские свойства обуви, обеспечивая комфорт при эксплуатации. Располагается над берцами;!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-18.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe upper outer parts n lapel - folded upper part of the bootleg"> Наружные детали верха обуви n отворот – отвёрнутая верхняя часть голенищ сапог. n закрепка – деталь, укрепляющая соединение деталей верха, по конструкции бывает: отрезная, цельнокроенная, по форме: прямоугольной формы, типа «флажок» ; n ушки – детали в виде петли, соединённой с голенищами или берцами, предназначены для удобства обувания;!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-19.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Outside details of the upper of shoes edges"> Наружные детали верха обуви n надблочник – деталь обуви, придающая прочность наружным краям берец с расположенными на них блочками. Надблочник бывает по конструкции – круговой, отрезной, по форме –в виде «вилки» , фигурный.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-20.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe upper outer parts n stitching - strip detail"> Наружные детали верха обуви n прошва – деталь в виде полоски материала, расположенная между задними краями голенища для повышения прочности и водостойкости шва. n окантовочная деталь – наружная деталь верха в виде тесьмы или полоски материала для украшения её видимых краёв. n бизик – декоративная вставка между стачиваемыми деталями (по контуру союзки, по канту, по краю вставки).!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-21.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe upper outer parts n belt - 1) Rear outer belt"> Наружные детали верха обуви n ремень – 1) Задний наружный ремень (ЗНР) -ответственная деталь обуви, укрепляющая задний шов, соединяющий берцы или голенища. ЗНР может быть прямоугольным, расширенным сверху или снизу; n 2) Ремень для застёжки, надподъёмный, чересподъёмный, подпряжечный, околощиколоточный, ремень-петля.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-22.jpg" alt = ""> Фурнитура n хольнитен – деталь обуви в виде металлической заклепки, предназначенная для повышения прочности соединения союзки с берцами; n крючки, блочки (петли), люверсы, шнурки – приспособления для закрепления обуви на ноге и др. ;!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-23.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe parts n Inner shoe parts are parts that come into contact with the foot. They protect"> Детали обуви n Внутренними деталями обуви называются детали, соприкасающиеся с ногой. Они предохраняют стопу от натирания швами, краями жёстких промежуточных деталей, повышают износостойкость и формоустойчивость наружных деталей верха, защищают их от действия пота, а также от разрывов при изготовлении обуви, улучшают гигиенические (потопроводность, паропроницаемость и др.) и повышают теплозащитные свойства обуви.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-24.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Upper inner parts: n Shoe lining - inner parts kit"> Внутренние детали верха обуви: n Подкладка обуви – комплект внутренних деталей верха обуви, предназначенный для улучшения гигиенических и теплозащитных свойств, формоустойчивости обуви, а также для изоляции ноги от швов и наружных деталей верха. n карман – внутренняя деталь верха обуви, расположенная в пяточной или носочной части заготовки для размещения задника или подноска (в бесподкладочной обуви);!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-25.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Upper inner parts: n sub-block (split, one-piece, shortened ) - inner top part"> Внутренние детали верха обуви: n подблочник (составной, цельный, укороченный)–внутренняя деталь верха для повышения прочности прикрепления блочек, крючков к берцам; n штаферка (составная, цельная, прямая, расширенная, фигурная)– внутренняя деталь верха обуви для укрепления верхнего канта заготовки; n задний внутренний ремень (ЗВР) (прямой, расширенный, фигурный)– деталь, аналогичная ЗНР, предохраняет задний шов заготовки верха и подкладки в пяточной части от преждевременного разрушения; 1. Текстильная (или меховая) подкладка под союзку 2. . Текстильная (или меховая) подкладка под берцы 3. Задний внутренний ремень (ЗВР) 4. Штаферка!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-26.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Upper inner parts: n insole - inner upper part"> Внутренние детали верха обуви: n вкладная стелька – внутренняя деталь верха обуви, по форме соответствующая основной стельке, для улучшения внутреннего вида и гигиенических свойств обуви; n вкладная полустелька – выполняет функции вкладной стельки, но по форме соответствует пяточно-геленочной части вкладной стельки; n подпяточник – внутренняя деталь, соответствующая по форме пяточной части основной стельки, прикрывающая металлические крепители каблука и обеспечивающая комфортность обуви.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-27.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Inner details of the shoe upper: n cushion - inner detail of the shoe upper,"> Внутренние детали верха обуви: n подушечник – внутренняя деталь верха обуви, настрачиваемая на нижнюю часть ушка для обеспечения прочности соединения ушка с голенищем или берцем. n подшивка – внутренняя деталь верха сапога по форме и размерам соответствующая верхней части голенища. n футор - внутренняя деталь верха сапога по форме и размеру соответствующая голенищу. n поднаряд – внутренняя деталь верха сапога по форме и размеру соответствующая переду;!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-28.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe parts n Intermediate parts are parts located between the inner and"> Детали обуви n Промежуточными деталями называют детали, расположенные между внутренними и наружными деталями. Они необходимы для придания устойчивости тонким и тягучим деталям верха обуви, повышения их прочности, а также повышают гигиенические свойства обуви (напр. : впитывают выделяемую стопой влагу). Жёсткие промежуточные детали сохраняют форму носочной и пяточной частей обуви, предохраняя пальцы и пятку от ушибов.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-29.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Intermediate shoe parts: These are the parts located between the outer and inner parts . n"> Промежуточные детали обуви: Это детали, расположенные между наружными и внутренними деталями. n межподкладка (под союзку, под задинку, под берцы)- комплект промежуточных деталей верха для повышения формоустойчивости; n межподблочник - промежуточная деталь верха обуви для повышения прочности прикрепления блочек к деталям верха; n боковинка- промежуточная деталь верха обуви, расположенная в геленочно-пучковой части, для повышения ее формоустойчивости; под союзку -1, под задинку -2, под берцы-3, под носок-5, боковинка-4, межподблочник-6 - комплект промежуточных деталей верха для повышения формоустойчивости!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-30.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Intermediate shoe parts: n toe cap (regular, straight, cropped, curly, and by"> Промежуточные детали обуви: n подносок (обычный, прямой, укороченный, фигурный, и по материалам: кожаный, из текстильных, термопластичных, эластичных материалов, металлический или пластмассовый (в спецобуви)) – промежуточная деталь, расположенная в носочной части, для сохранения ее формы; n задник (жёсткий, особо жёсткий (в спецобуви), полужёсткий, мягкий, обычный, укороченный, с удлинёнными крыльями, по материалам: кожаный, кожкартонный, пластмассовый (в спецобуви), термопластичный)– промежуточная деталь, расположенная в пяточной части для сохранения ее формы;!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-31.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Backdrops">!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-32.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe upper details Shoe blank details with"> Детали верха обуви Детали заготовки ботинка с отрезными деталями: 1 - язычок; 2 - берцы; 3 - носок; 4 - союзка; 5 - задинки; 6 - задний наружный ремень; 7 - закрепка; 8 - основная подкладка; 9 - подблочные ремни; 10 - штаферка; 11 - внутренний задний ремень; 12 - межподкладка под задинки; 13 - межподкладка под берцы; 14 - боковинки; 15 - межподкладка под носок; 16 - межподкладка под союзку!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-33.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe bottom details n Shoe bottom outer details: n Outsole - outer detail"> Детали низа обуви n Наружные детали низа обуви: n Подошва- наружная деталь низа обуви, расположенная под всей плантарной поверхностью стопы. По конструкции подошва бывает круговая, плоская, составная (состоит из детали, расположенной под носочно-пучковой и геленочной частями стопы, и из детали-надставки в пяточной части), с крокулем (язычком на каблук)- подошва, пяточная часть которой имеет форму фронтальной поверхности каблука, с язычком под каблук –подошва, в которой укороченная пяточная часть в готовой обуви заходит под каблук); формованная- подошва из искусственных, синтетических материалов или кожи, которую изготавливают методом формования в прессах). Формованная подошва бывает: -по конструкции- монолитная (вместе с каблуком), полумонолитная (без каблука), профилированная (имеет различную толщину в различных участках); -по материалам- из искусственных материалов, комбинированные, из пластмасс, синтетических материалов; - по оформлению неходовой поверхности- с облегчительными полостями или без них, с сеткой простилки (или без неё), с рантом (или без него); - по оформлению ходовой поверхности- без рисунка, с рисунком.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-34.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Sole a-leather, flat, circular; b-leather c crokul; v- molded monolithic from artificial,"> Подошва а-кожаная, плоская, круговая; б-кожаная с крокулем; в- формованная монолитная из искусственных, синтетических материалов (ТЭП, ПВХ, ТПУ); г-формованная монолитная из ПУ; д- формованная профилированная, е-формованная полумонолитная, профилированная; ж-из пористой резины.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-35.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe bottom details n. for"> Детали низа обуви n. Каблук – наружная деталь низа обуви, предназначенная для подъёма пяточной части стопы на определённую высоту. Каблуки бывают: по виду - английский, венский, клиновидный, удлинённый, расширенный к набойке, «столбик» , талированный, французский, «шпилька» ; по высоте- низкий (до 29 мм), средний (30 -40 мм), высокий (50 -60 мм), особо высокий (выше 60 мм), по конструкции- многослойный, с вкладышем (или без него), с вырезом для язычка подошвы, с запрессованной втулкой (или без неё) с металлической насадкой, наборной, пустотелый, с облегчительными полостями (или без них), с подковкой, с прорезью на фронтальной поверхности для заправки концов обтяжки, со скосом, формованный, цельнолитой; по материалам –деревянный, кожаный (наборной), комбинированный, пластмассовый, резиновый; по способу расположения на обуви- на платформе, на подошве, на следе затянутой обуви. n. Набойка- наружная деталь низа обуви, которую прикрепляют к набоечной поверхности каблука или пяточной части подошв. Набойки бывают кожаные, металлические, пластмассовые, резиновые.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-36.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Classification of heels High (50 -60 mm)"> Классификация каблуков Высокие (50 -60 мм) и особо высокие (свыше 60 мм) Средние (30 -49 мм) Низкие (до 29 мм)!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-37.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Heels Heels A-metal plastic"> Каблуки Набойки а-металлические пластмассовые б-полиуретановые Кожаные наборные!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-38.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe bottom details n Shoe bottom outer details: n Outsole (pad ) - external"> Детали низа обуви n Наружные детали низа обуви: n Подмётка (накладка)- наружная деталь низа обуви, по форме и размерам соответствующая носочно-пучковой части подошвы или всей её поверхности. Предназначена для повышения теплозащитных свойств, увеличения сроков службы подошвы, предохраняет от скольжения обуви. n Обводка – деталь низа в виде полоски из кожи или искусственных материалов, которая прикрепляется по краю неходовой поверхности подошвы и обеспечивает плотное прилегание её к следу затянутой обуви. n Подковка – плоская металлическая деталь, прикрепляемая на набойку или каблук. n Флик – деталь низа из кожи или резины разной толщины, по форме и размерам соответствующая наборному каблуку. По параметрам и форме флик бывает клиновидный, круговой, составной.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-39.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Soles Flicks of leather stacked heel">!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-40.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Details of the bottom of the shoe n Rant - the outer detail of the bottom of the shoe, to"> Детали низа обуви n Рант – наружная деталь низа обуви, к которой пристрачивается подошва или подложка в обуви рантовых методов крепления и «Парко» . Рант бывает: по конструкции - гладкий потайной, прямой, с желобком, с накаткой, фигурный; по назначению – декоративный (улучшающий внешний вид), накладной (повышающий прочность шва) и улучшающий внешний вид в обуви доппельного и сандального метода крепления); несущий (наружная ответственная деталь низа обуви рантового метода крепления и «Парко» .!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-41.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> The inner bottom of the shoe is the bottom of the shoe that is in contact with the foot"> Внутренние детали низа обуви это детали низа обуви, которые соприкасаются со стопой n Основная стелька – ответственная деталь обуви, расположенная под всей поверхностью стопы, к которой прикрепляют заготовку верха и детали низа обуви. При эксплуатации обуви стелька подвергается многократным изгибам и сжатиям, а при отсутствии вкладной стельки – действию пота, истиранию со стороны стопы. Материалы, применяемые для изготовления стельки, должны быть устойчивыми к этим воздействиям, хорошо поглощать пот, прочно удерживать гвозди, нитки. В обуви применяют стельки кожаные (одинарные и склеенные из двух слоев), комбинированные (из слоя кожи и искусственного стелечного материала или спецкартона), одинарные из различных видов стелечного картона. Требования к стелькам несколько различны в зависимости от вида обуви, способа крепления низа, половозрастного назначения обуви. Стельки бывают плоские, рантовые(имеют губу, к которой прикрепляется затяжная кромка заготовки и детали низа обуви), формованные (имеют пространственную форму, соответствующую форме следа). Некоторые виды обуви изготавливают без стельки («Калифорния» , сандалии).!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-42.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Insoles">!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-43.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Inner details of the bottom of the shoe n Insert insole (half insole) - shoe detail ,"> Внутренние детали низа обуви n Вкладная стелька (полустелька) – деталь обуви, соответствующая по форме основной стельке (полустелька соответствует по форме пяточно-геленочной части основной стельки). Служит для улучшения эстетических, комфортных и гигиенических свойств обуви. n Втачная стелька – внутренняя деталь обуви, пристрачиваемая к заготовке по периметру или к пяточной части обуви. n Подносочник- внутренняя деталь в открытой обуви в носочной части, соответствующая форме носочной части основной стельки, и выполняющая функции вкладной стельки.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-44.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Intermediate bottoms of shoes are the bottoms of shoes located between the inner and"> Промежуточные детали низа обуви - это детали низа обуви, расположенные между внутренними и наружными деталями n Геленок (супинатор) – деталь обуви, закрепляемая между основной стелькой и подошвой (в зависимости от метода крепления низа) для создания необходимой жесткости и упругости в пяточно-геленочной части обуви, а в некоторых случаях в ортопедических целях. Геленок бывает: картонный, комбинированный, металлический, пластмассовый, фанерный. n Простилка – деталь обуви, при помощи которой заполняют пустое пространство под основной стелькой, образовавшееся после закрепления на ней заготовки верха; n Подложка – деталь обуви, расположенная между простилкой и подошвой. В зависимости от метода крепления ее функции различны (для повышения прочности, улучшения гигиенических и теплозащитных свойств), в некоторых случаях является ответственной деталью;!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-45.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Intermediate parts of the bottom of the shoe n Pad is a part of the shoe located between"> Промежуточные детали низа обуви n Прокладка – деталь обуви, расположенная между подложкой и подошвой. Предназначена, как правило, для повышения теплозащитных свойств низа обуви. n Платформа – промежуточная деталь низа обуви, по форме соответствующая носочно-пучковой части подошвы, или всей её поверхности. n Кранец - промежуточная деталь в форме подковки, которая крепится к краю верхнего флика наборного каблука и предназначена для плотного прилегания каблука к подошве. n Вкладыш и втулка каблука – для предотвращения деформации каблука в процессе эксплуатации (вкладыш бывает деревянный, пластмассовый, резиновый, втулка из металла). n Жёсткий подпяточник – соответствует форме пяточной части основной стельки, и предназначен для повышения прочности крепления каблука. n Мягкий подпяточник – расположен в пяточной части под вкладной стелькой, для улучшения комфортности стопы.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-46.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Details of the bottom of shoes a - women; b - men:"> Детали низа обуви а - женской; б – мужской: 1 - подошва; 2 - стелька; 3 - задник; 4 - подметка; 5 - подносок; 6 - геленок; 7 - простилка; 8 - флик; 9 - кранец; 10 - набойка; 11 - каблук; 12 - супинатор; 13 – рант.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-48.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> 1 - sock; 2 - vamp; 3 - ankle boots; 4 - back; 5 -"> 1 - носок; 2 - союзка; 3 - берца; 4 - задинка; 5 - задний наружный ремень; 6 - язычок; 7 - закрепка; 8 - подошва; 9 - рант; 10 - каблук; 11- подкладка; 12 - подблочник; 13 - штаферка; 14 - задний внутренний ремень; 15 - боковинка; 16 - межподкладка союзки; 17 - стелька; 18 - задник; 19 - подносок; 20 - подпяточник; 21 - простилки; 22 - геленок.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-50.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Model and design features of shoes n By the degree of wear in the process of wearing shoes"> Модельно-конструктивные особенности обуви n По степени износа в процессе носки обуви их делят на ответственные и менее ответственные. n К ответственным деталям верха относят носок, союзку, перед, задний наружный ремень, низа обуви - подошву, наружную подметку, накладку, основную стельку, рант, каблук, набойку. Ответственные детали подвергаются интенсивному износу, поэтому их выкраивают из наиболее прочных, толстых и плотных материалов.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-51.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe upper blank design The design of the leather shoe upper blank is determined by the degree of openness"> Конструкция заготовки верха обуви Конструкция заготовки верха кожаной обуви определяется степенью открытости обуви, способом закрепления ее на стопе, характером расчленения верха и подкладки обуви на отдельные детали, способом совмещения деталей верха и подкладки. n Заготовка верха и подкладки сапог. n В зависимости от характера расчленения верха обуви на отдельные детали и их !} mutual disposition the following basic designs of the tops of the boots are distinguished: n with front stitched on the bootlegs (a); n with bootlegs stitched on the front (b); n with set-in front (c); n with the front combined, that is, constituting one whole with the tops (g). In accordance with the purpose of the boots and the materials of the front and tops and their thickness, the lining design is modified. Boots are made: n with a lining under the front - a leather sub-outfit (d); n with leather underwear 1 and textile lining 2 under the upper part of the bootleg - hemming (e); n with textile lining 2 without subset (g); n with leather sub-outfit 1 and with leather lining 3 under the entire bootleg - through foot (h). Rice. The design of the boot blanks: a-d - top; d-z - lining

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-52.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Blanks for the top and lining of boots and ankle boots"> Заготовки верха и подкладки сапожек и полусапожек Верх сапожек и полусапожек изготовляют из следующих основных конструкций: n из двух половинок, в каждой из которых совмещены полуголенище и полусоюзка (а); n из четырех частей - двух передних, совмещенных с полусоюзками, и двух задних, совмещенных с задинками (б); n с союзкой, настроченной на полуголенище (в); n с полуголенищами, настроченными на союзку (г); n с союзкой и задинками, настроченными на голенище или полуголенище (д); n с круговой или полукруговой союзкой, настроченной на голенище или полуголенище (е). Рис. Конструкция заготовок сапожек: а-е - верха; ж-з - подкладки!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-53.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Construction of boot blanks The last two designs are used in the manufacture of boots with tight"> Конструкция заготовок сапожек Последние две конструкции применяют при изготовлении сапожек с облегающими голенищами из искусственной кожи, союзками и задинками из хромовых кож. Сапожки и полусапожки выпускают без застегивающих приспособлений, в особенности при голенищах из облегающих голень материалов, а также с застежками- молниями, на блочках и крючках со шнурками, с ремнями на пряжках и т. п. Конструкция подкладки сапожек и полусапожек находится во взаимосвязи с конструкцией деталей верха. Обычно подкладка сапожек и полусапожек состоит из двух текстильных половин 1 и кожаного мягкого внутреннего задника 2 (рис. 24 ж) или ремня; в ряде случаев верхний кант сапожек укрепляется штаферкой 3 (рис. 24 з). При изготовлении сапожек и полусапожек с застежкой- молнией, блочками и крючками дополнительно прикрепляют внутренний кожаный язычок.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-54.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Boot upper construction On the basis of the dismemberment of the outer parts of the upper and their nature"> Конструкция верха ботинок По признакам расчленения наружных деталей верха и характеру их взаимного соединения различают следующие основные конструкции верха ботинок: n с накладной союзкой (а, б); n с накладными берцами (в, г, д); n с овальной вставкой в союзке (д); n кроя типа мокасин (е); n цельного кроя (ж, з); n из двух половин, соединенных тачным или настрочным швом (и, к).!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-55.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Boot lining construction n Main boot lining except tongue lining, comprises"> Конструкция подкладки ботинок n Основная подкладка ботинок, кроме подкладки под язычок, состоит из текстильной подкладки 1 под союзку и текстильной подкладки 2 под берцы (а, б) или из двух текстильных половинок, в каждой из которых совмещены подкладка под союзки и берцы (в, г, д). n Пяточную часть подкладки в большинстве видов ботинок оформляют в виде кожаного ремня 3 большей или меньшей ширины (а, б, в, д, е, ж, з, л). n Верхний край подкладки ботинок обычно укрепляют штаферкой 4 из кожи или тесьмы (а, б, в, и, л), n а передний край - кожаным подблочным ремнем 5 (а, в, г, д). Некоторые виды ботинок имеют подкладку усложненной конфигурации - это ботинки с боковой застежкой-молнией или шнуровкой (е, и), ботинки на резинках (ж, к), ботинки с ремнями на пряжках (з).!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-56.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Constructions of the upper of low shoes n By the nature of the division of the upper into separate parts"> Конструкции верха полуботинок n По характеру членения верха обуви на отдельные детали и способу их взаимного соединения полуботинки близки к ботинкам. n с накладными берцами (а, б, в); n с накладной союзкой (г, е); n с овальной вставкой в союзке (е, ж); n кроя типа мокасин (з); n с круговыми полусоюзками, совмещенными с берцами (и); n с клапаном (в) и резинкой (д, к); n кроя «деленка» типа летних полуботинок (л).!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-57.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Boot lining constructions n Upper boot lining excluding tongue lining ,"> Конструкции подкладки полуботинок n Подкладка верха полуботинок, не считая подкладку под язычок, обычно состоит из двух - четырех частей: n Кожаной подкладки 1: под союзку и подкладки 2 под берцы, выкраиваемой из натуральной или искусственной кожи (а, б); n Кожаной подкладки 1 под союзку и подкладки под берцы, расчлененной на детали 2 и 3, выкраиваемые из натуральной или искусственной кожи (в); n текстильной подкладки 1 под союзку, подкладки пяточной части 2 в виде одной или двух деталей, текстильной подкладки пяточной части берцев 3 и подблочных ремней 4 (г); детали 2 и 4 выкраивают из натуральной или искусственной кожи. n В некоторых видах полуботинок подкладка видоизменяется или усложняется: в пяточной части заготовок выделяют кожаную подкладку 3 под черес подъемный ремень (д, е), применяют сквозную полукруговую или круговую подкладку 1 из подкладочной кожи (ж) и т. п. n В летних полуботинках типа сандалет ставят кожаную подкладку в пяточной части или в пяточной и геленочной частях сквозную кожаную!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-58.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe upper designs n The shoe group includes pumps, shoes and"> Конструкции верха туфель n К группе туфель относятся туфли-лодочки, туфли и сандалии с одним или двумя (иногда тремя) чересподъёмными ремнями, туфли кроя типа «деленка» , комнатные и дорожные туфли, спортивные и др. Верх туфель состоит из одной, двух, трёх и более деталей, совмещенных ниточными швами в одну или две (в туфлях типа «делёнка») общие составные детали.!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-59.jpg" alt = " calcaneal"> Конструкции верха туфель К группе туфель относятся также туфли с открытой носочной или пяточной частью (рис. а, б, в), туфли с открытой носочной и пяточной частью (рис. г, д, ж, е), туфли-сандалеты с верхом, состоящим из отдельных разобщенных деталей или ремешков (рис. з, и), туфли-пантолеты без носочной и пяточной частей верха или без одной пяточной части. Рис. Конструкции верха туфель с открытой носочной и пяточной частями и типа сандалет Рис. Конструкции верха туфель типа пантолет!}

Src = "http://present5.com/presentation/3/159124795_382468680.pdf-img/159124795_382468680.pdf-60.jpg" alt = "(! LANG:> Shoe lining constructions n In pumps and with a strap lining end-to-end"> Конструкции подкладки туфель n В туфлях-лодочках и с чересподъёмным ремнём подкладка сквозная кожаная или же составная из двух-трех частей (рис. а, б, в): передней 1, выкраиваемой из текстильных материалов, и пяточной 2, выкраиваемой из натуральной и искусственной кожи в виде одной или двух деталей. n В некоторых видах туфель подкладка 1 состоит из двух сквозных кожаных деталей (рис. г). В бесподкладочных туфлях (так же как и в бесподкладочных полуботинках) имеется лишь подкладка 2 в пяточной части, выкраиваемая из натуральной или искусственной кожи (рис. д). n Количество и норма подкладочных деталей в туфлях с открытой носочной или пяточной частью, туфлях с открытой носочной и пяточной частью, туфлях-сандалетах с верхом, состоящим из отдельных разобщенных деталей или ремешков, туфлях- пантолетах без носочной и пяточной частей верха или без одной пяточной части соответствует наружным деталям верха; детали подкладки данной обуви выкраивают из натуральной или искусственной кожи.!}