How to lay a brick floor in a garage. How to make your own floor - wood and concrete - in the garage? General requirements for floor coverings

When building a garage, special attention should be paid to the floor. If the surface becomes damp, emit a lot of dust, and will not be able to withstand the load, this will negatively affect the safety of the car. Do DIY garage floor can be done in several ways, each of which has its advantages. A concrete screed is considered a classic base, but other floor options are also in demand: earthen, self-leveling, wooden and even tiled.

The cheapest floor is earthen. It does not require financial costs, has a very simple device, but at the same time has low strength and strongly absorbs moisture. Such coverage can be done temporarily if the construction budget is very limited. Also, this option is suitable for those who do not often use the garage, and most of the time is on the road.

The process of arranging an earthen floor is very simple:

when marking the site for the foundation, the entire vegetation layer is removed;
after pouring the basement, the inner space is cleaned and leveled;
using a rammer, carefully compact the base;
when the roof has already been mounted in the garage, a layer of oily clay with a thickness of 10 cm or more is poured onto the floor;
carefully tamp the base.

You can do without clay, but it significantly increases the strength of the floor and provides good protection against moisture.

Concrete floor

Concrete screed is the most popular coating in private garages. Such a floor can withstand very strong and uneven loads, is not afraid of fire, is resistant to various oils, solvents and gasoline, and is durable. Concrete can pull moisture, but correct device the floor completely eliminates such risks. Although the volume of work is quite large and will require a lot of time and physical effort, the process itself has a simple technology.

Construction stages:

production of a viewing pit;
floor level markings;
soil preparation;
backfill with sand and gravel;
laying waterproofing;
reinforcement;
pouring the floor.

All work is carried out after the completion of the construction of the garage, but before the start interior decoration premises.

Step 1. Preparation of the pit

The inspection pit is not required element each garage; it is needed only by those who independently repair their car. It should be noted that the pit cannot be made in the area where the level groundwater equals 2.5 m. The place for it is usually chosen in the center of the room, departing a certain distance from the entrance.

Having determined the location of the pit, they dig a pit. Its parameters:

width 75-80 cm + 30 cm for waterproofing;
depth - the height of the garage owner + 30 cm;
length - vehicle length + 1.5 m.

On the ground, they mark the boundaries of the pit and begin to dig. During work, you need to ensure that all walls remain as vertical and even as possible. After excavation, the floor is compacted with a rammer, then a thin layer of clay is poured and tamped again. Further, the bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of roofing material, the edges of which are slightly turned up on the walls.

A concrete mixture is poured over the roofing material to a height of 7 to 10 cm. The top of the concrete is leveled and left to dry. It is not necessary to cover the pit while the solution dries.

Step 2. Wall masonry

When the concrete in the pit has hardened enough, you can lay out the walls. For these purposes, red fired bricks and aerated concrete blocks are best suited. Laying is carried out immediately around the entire perimeter, it is impossible to lay each wall separately. So, the first row is laid according to the level, leaving about 15-20 cm between the walls of the pit and the brick. The protruding mortar is immediately removed with a trowel so that when finishing the pit, the frozen concrete does not have to be knocked down.

Wall masonry. Metal corner around the perimeter

All subsequent rows are laid out with an offset of the vertical seams, which helps to strengthen the walls. To keep the masonry vertical, check every 2-3 rows with a level; it is not recommended to build more than 6 rows of bricks at a time. The last row of bricks should be 6-7 cm below the threshold. Subsequently on brick walls a metal corner will be laid, which should not protrude above the floor surface.

Step 3. Waterproofing the pit

After two to three days, the walls of the pit can be waterproofed from the outside. Using a thick roller on a long handle, cover the brick surface with a primer and leave to dry. Next, the bituminous mastic is heated, and with the same roller it is applied to the walls with a dense layer. Filling the free space behind the pit walls with soil is carried out after the mastic has completely dried. The voids should be filled in with soil layer by layer with compulsory ramming, otherwise the earth will sag under the concrete pavement and cracks will form.

Step 4. Marking the floor level

The markings are done with a laser or water level, a regular construction one is not suitable here. In the presence of laser level the whole process will take a few minutes, but marking with a water level will take more time. For convenience, the markings are made at a distance of 1 m from the subfloor, and then transferred to the zero mark. So, first, 1 m is measured upwards from the threshold and put a mark with a pencil. Then one end of the level is attached to the mark, and the other to the adjacent wall, where the water level in the tube will show the location of the next mark.

Thus, 2-3 marks are left on each of the walls; after that, 102 cm is measured down from the upper beacons and marks are also put with a pencil. It remains only to beat off the marking line with a coated cord, and the zero level is determined.

Step 5. Preparing the base

In the process of building a garage, excess soil and construction waste remains inside the building. All this must be removed, after which an additional layer of earth must be removed to a depth of 30 cm. The depth must be the same over the entire area, therefore, all visible irregularities must be cleaned off with a shovel. With the help of a rammer, the soil itself is carefully compacted, then a layer of sand and clay 3-5 cm thick is poured, spilled with water and again take up the rammer. The higher the density of the substrate, the stronger the floor will be.

Step 6. Arrangement of sand and gravel cushions

The thickness of the gravel layer is 10 cm. If the garage is large, it will be difficult to fill in a layer of the required thickness without additional measurements, so the task can be simplified. For this, wooden pegs of the required height are driven into the ground, placing them in even rows. Having filled up the gravel to this level, you should tamp it well, pull out the pegs and fill the voids with the same gravel.

In a small garage, you can do it differently: in each corner and in the middle of the walls at a level of 10 cm, you need to put a bright mark. This technique will help you quickly fill up the gravel without wasting time on measurements. The next layer is sand; it can be fine or coarse, even with an admixture of clay, but without debris and large lumps. For greater compaction, a sand cushion is spilled with water and tamped again. Finally, check the plane of the base with a large building level or rule in order to avoid the formation of irregularities.

Crushed stone with a diameter of 40-50 mm is poured onto the sand, the thickness of this layer is about 5 cm. The surface is leveled, compacted, covered with a small amount of sand and moistened. Ram again, trying not to leave sharp protrusions. Finally, the base is poured with lean concrete, the layer thickness of which is 3 cm.

Lean concrete is kneaded in the following proportion:

1 part cement;
3 parts sifted sand;
6 pieces of fine crushed stone.

This solution has low strength, but it perfectly levels the base under the screed. Concrete is poured onto crushed stone, leveled over the entire area with the rule and left to dry.

Component	Description
Cement	Cement is a binder that binds the rest of the concrete together and gives the mixture a homogeneous stone-like structure. For the manufacture of concrete mortar, it is better to use cement M500 or M400 (pozzolanic or slag)
Sand	The sand is an aggregate that ensures the normal hardening of the mixture and closes the voids between the coarse components of the mixture. For concrete, washed, sifted sand with fine, medium fraction, less often - coarse is used
Crushed stone	In the composition of concrete, various crushed stone can be used - stone, slag, limestone, gravel, etc. For lean concrete, stone, gravel and mixed type of aggregate, both fine and coarse grains, are used
Water	It is a reagent for the reaction of cement hydration, which leads to the hardening of the solution. For the optimal course of this reaction, it is important to observe the correct proportion of reagents (cement and water), which is commonly called the water-cement ratio or the W / C module.
Additives	Plasticizers, water repellents, antiseptics, sealants, surfactants, air-entraining substances, hardening retarders or accelerators, etc.

Step 7. Waterproofing the floor

When the concrete is dry, it is treated with any primer mixture.

Special membranes, roll materials, bitumen mastic and liquid rubber are used as waterproofing. Roofing material, film, membrane are spread on the floor, and the edges are brought onto the walls. The canvases must be laid with an overlap of 10 cm. Very often the roofing material is laid directly on the hot mastic, then the cloth is tightly glued to the base and reliably protects the floor from moisture.

Step 8. Reinforcement

For reinforcement, you will need a metal mesh with a mesh size of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. It is cooked from reinforcement with a cross section of 5 mm. The mesh is laid so that about 5 cm remains between its edges and walls. The same distance must be left around the perimeter of the inspection pit. In addition, the mesh should be slightly raised above the surface, so plastic or metal supports 2 cm high are placed under the rods.

Step 9. Installing beacons

In order for the floor to be perfectly flat, you need to do the screed along the beacons. Metal corners, a profile can act as such beacons, but it is most convenient to use steel tubes small diameter, for example 25 mm. To fix the guides, knead a little solution, and the pipes themselves are abundantly lubricated with machine oil. Lighthouses should be located in even horizontal rows, the distance between which is 1.2-1.5 m. Piles of mortar are thrown on the floor along the wall every 15 cm and the first pipe is laid on them. Using a level, they expose it horizontally and at the same time level it at the zero mark. When all the guides are installed, you should check their horizontal position again. For this, the level is placed perpendicular to 2 or 3 beacons.

Along the perimeter of the garage, it is necessary to leave small gaps between the screed and the walls with a width of 1-2 cm and fill them with a damper tape. This will help prevent damage to the coating when the garage shrinks. Now it remains to weld the frame from the corners for the inspection pit. A steel corner 50x50 mm is cut into 4 parts according to the size of the pit and welded in the form of a rectangle. The finished frame is primed and dried, and then laid on brick walls. If desired, you can paint the corner with red lead - this will provide additional protection against corrosion. Under the weight concrete mortar the frame may deform a little; to prevent this from happening, the corners should be reinforced with temporary struts from a bar.

Step 10. Filling the screed

First you need to calculate the approximate volume of the solution. To do this, the floor area is multiplied by the height of the screed, which is 5 cm. For example, if the area is 35 square meters, then the screed will require at least 1.75 cubic meters of concrete. A solution is prepared in a ratio of 1: 3, and it is better to take cement grades 400-500, and sand can be replaced by screening.

The solution must be sufficiently thick and homogeneous, therefore it must be mixed very thoroughly. The finished mass is poured between the lighthouses so that the solution covers them, and then, using a metal rule, is carried out along the pipes and all excess is pulled together. The rule must be strongly pressed on both sides and led evenly, then the surface of the screed is simultaneously compacted and leveled.

1-2 days after pouring, the guides must be carefully removed from the screed. Since the pipes have been lubricated with oil, this process does not require much effort. The grooves from the beacons are filled with the same solution and the surface is left to dry. It is recommended to moisten the floor regularly to avoid cracking; You can also cover the surface with wet sawdust and periodically spray it with water. After 10-12 days, the sawdust is swept away, and the floor dries up already in the open state. It usually takes about 4 weeks for the concrete screed to dry completely.

Ceramic tiles

This option is quite costly, since high-quality floor tiles it's expensive. But such a floor looks great, is easy to clean, and emits very little dust. Tiles must be bought with a wear resistance class of at least 5, and if there is no heating in the garage, then frost-resistant. It is recommended to lay it no earlier than 2 years after the construction of the garage, otherwise the coating will deform during shrinkage.

For work you will need:

primer;
tile adhesive;
ceramic tile;
notched trowel;
level;
plastic crosses for seams;
grout.

Step 1. Prepare the base

The tiles are laid on a concrete base. If the rough screed has been damaged during operation, all irregularities must be repaired with cement mortar, cleaned of dust and covered with two layers of primer. A high-quality screed is easy enough to prime.

Step 2. Floor covering

The adhesive composition is diluted according to the instructions and allowed to brew for 10 minutes. Part of the glue is applied to the back of the tile, the rest is applied to the floor with a notched trowel. The tiles are applied to the floor, leveled and gently pressed. Plastic spacers are inserted between adjacent fragments, which ensure the uniformity of the seams. After leveling, the tiles are checked with a level so that the floor is perfectly flat. The glue should not get on the front side of the ceramic; all accidental splashes and smears should be immediately wiped off with a rag.

Step 3. Grouting

After laying, you need to wait 3 days and wipe the seams. For this, a special composition based on cement is used. The seams are moistened, and then the working mixture is applied with a narrow rubber spatula. After filling the seam, the excess is removed with a neat, sharp movement. When the process is complete, the grout is allowed to set for half an hour, after which the seams are washed with a damp sponge. You can drive into the garage by car after 2 weeks, when the glue is completely dry and the floor gets the required strength.

Self-leveling flooring is expensive, but the advantages of such a coating justify the cost. The service life of the self-leveling floor is at least 40 years, it has a very high strength, is easy to clean, does not burn, and has a perfectly flat surface. Epoxy and polyurethane industrial compounds are best suited for the garage. You can do the installation yourself, because the filling technology is very simple.

Step 1. Preparatory work

The rough base is cleaned of dust and all cracks are repaired. Recesses more than 3 cm deep are also filled with mortar and dried. After that, the floor is primed twice.

Step 2. Pouring the mixture

The floor solution is prepared exactly according to the instructions, otherwise the quality of the coating will decrease. During operation, the temperature in the garage should not be less than 10 and above 25 degrees. If the room is large, the filling is carried out in stages, dividing the area into several sections. Smooth the mixture with a needle roller, carefully removing air bubbles. It will take about 20 days to dry, after which the coating is ready for use.

Wooden floors in garages are very rare. Despite the ease of installation, low cost and environmental friendliness of the material, such a coating is not popular. Even the densest wood cannot withstand the loads from a car for more than 5 years. Plus, wood floors are highly flammable, and in a garage where gasoline, oil and thinner are stored, it is doubly dangerous.

If you still want to make a wooden floor, the installation technology is simple and straightforward:

Video - DIY garage floor

Dampness, temperature fluctuations and changes in humidity levels, the aggressive effects of spilled fuels and lubricants and other features of the operation of the garage space can cause a lot of trouble to the car owner. Therefore, when registering a car in the garage, the installation of the floor covering must be included in the list of first-order tasks. A fascinating acquaintance with the types of technical floor coverings and their characteristics will help to assess the specifics of the operation of the premises and choose the right material. And if you are going to do the laying of the garage floor with your own hands, it will not hurt to stock up on working tools and free time in advance.

How to choose a floor in a garage?

In the garage, the car owner has to not only store his four-wheeled assistant, but also take care of him. To do this, a comfortable microclimate is needed in the room, which can be created by insulating the garage structure and performing interior decoration. Arrangement of the garage should start with the floor covering. Due to the specifics of the premises, the garage floor must meet the following requirements:

mechanical strength;
constructive reliability;
fire safety;
moisture resistance;
immunity to aggressive chemicals;
durability.

A garage floor can be made from a variety of materials. Any of them has its pros and cons, which must be taken into account not only when choosing a coating, but also during the operation of the premises.

The following options for arranging a garage floor have received the most widespread use:

earthen flooring;

Such a floor is not able to protect the room from cold and dampness. In addition, the earthen flooring is not able to withstand either humidity or intense loads when placing a car in and out of a garage. But this is the simplest and cheap way arrangement of the floor - all that is needed is to level and compact the ground inside the garage perimeter.

gravel pad;

The gravel-sand cushion is an improved type of open floor. Such a coating does not stand out either for ease of use or durability, but it copes well with high humidity and leaks of fuels and lubricants. In addition, the cost of such a flooring will be inexpensive, and it is easy to install it alone.

concrete;

Concrete flooring is the most practical and durable option for a garage. With proper filling and proper finishing, the screed will serve for decades without being subject to wear and tear. On the other hand, pouring concrete is quite time consuming, and besides, it is quite an expensive task, the solution of which requires a certain qualification.

wooden flooring;

Wooden floors in garage spaces are often installed, although wood does not have the same strength and durability as concrete. In addition, unlike the latter, it is a fire hazardous material, which, in addition, is of interest to pests. At the same time, laying a wooden flooring takes much less money, effort and time than pouring a concrete screed, and when proper care during operation, such a floor will quietly serve for at least ten years, without causing any trouble to the garage owner.

ceramic tiles and stone.

Ceramic tiles and stone have high decorative qualities. They are perfectly protected from chemical contamination and are not inferior to concrete in terms of wear resistance and mechanical strength. The service life of a ceramic floor is 25–30 years, and a stone floor - 35–40 years. The disadvantages of ceramic and stone coatings include an impressive cost, as well as the fact that both tiles and stone require considerable skill and patience during the installation process.

Please note: It is reasonable to make improvements to the inside of the garage gradually. For example, for a start, the earthen floor can be waterproofed with a thick layer of oily clay and, over time, covered with a gravel-sand cushion. If necessary, on such a floor, it will be easy to install a crate for sheathing with a wooden flooring or fill it with a reinforced concrete screed for subsequent tiling.

Calculating and pouring a concrete base with your own hands

Arrangement of a concrete garage floor is carried out in several steps:

Calculation of the concrete screed.
Collecting tools and buying material.
Preparatory work.
Pouring concrete.
Leveling and dust removal of the floor surface.

Good to know: After final leveling and dust removal, it is advisable to cover the concrete floor with a special paint or a layer of sealant. This will protect the material from contact with water and aggressive chemical components, and will significantly slow down the mechanical destruction of the coating.

Calculation of concrete screed

Reinforced concrete used in the construction of foundations and screeds has a multi-layer structure. In the garage, this floor covering should be installed on a tamped and waterproof earthen pad.

The composition of the "pie" of the concrete screed includes:

sand (gravel-sand) pillow;
rough concrete;
steam and heat insulation;
waterproofing pad;
reinforced screed.

set aside 20 cm in height for the reinforced screed topping the "pie";
provide for laying reinforced concrete on an insulating pad with a thickness of about 5 cm;
take to layer rough concrete not less than 15 cm;
allocate at least 10 cm on a gravel-sand cushion laid at the bottom of the pit;

The thickness of the screed can now be calculated. It will be equal to:

H = h pes.grav. + h black concrete + h steam heat insulation + h arm = 10 + 15 + 5 + 20 = 60 cm

If the zero mark is set, it is necessary to lower the level of the earthen flooring to the depth required by the project, i.e. lower it to the thickness of the concrete screed under construction.

The earthen bottom of the pit and the gravel-sand cushion under the rough concrete should be carefully tamped. To solve this problem, you will need a vibrating plate - a powerful tool capable of providing the highest quality compaction of the earth floor and cushion. As a result, the risk of screed destruction due to seasonal movement of soil layers or sudden rise of groundwater will be minimized.

When preparing for the main work, it is necessary from time to time to check the set marks with a laser level.

To fix the level set by the level, a construction marker and a painting cord are used. With a marker, it is necessary to put down clear marks indicating the boundaries of the concrete layers, and then tie them together using a paint cord.

Please note: When calculating the concrete screed, it is necessary to provide for a slight slope of the floor plane (up to 2 cm) towards the sewer lines or drainage system... This will ensure spontaneous removal of liquids from the floor surface.

Garage Concrete Floor Tools

You need to thoroughly prepare for pouring a concrete screed in the garage. It is necessary to collect in advance all the tools that will be needed in the process of work, and stock up on building materials in sufficient volume to complete the construction.

As for the list of instruments, it should include:

concrete mixer;
vibrating plate;
welding machine;
circular saw with discs for cutting metal;
scrap, shovel and bayonet shovels, as well as metal buckets or other containers;
a wheelbarrow for transporting sand, gravel and concrete mix;
hydro level;
laser level;
painting cord;
rule;
concrete grinder;
drill with mixer attachment;
plastering trowel, trowel and trowel;
construction tape;
wooden bevel for concrete grouting.

Calculation of building materials

Sand, cement and gravel are the main components of the concrete mix. The volume of the latter, required for pouring the screed in the garage, is calculated by multiplying the internal area of the room by the height of the concrete "pie". In this case, it is necessary to take into account the shrinkage factor of the material, as well as the volume of the insulating pad and reinforcing frame. Another 10% of the stock is added to the obtained value, after which, using the table of proportions of the concrete components, it is necessary to calculate the amount of sand and gravel required to prepare the solution.

In practice, for pouring concrete floors in technical rooms, cement of the M400 or M500 brand is used as standard. Reference literature says that the average consumption of dry cement per unit volume of concrete mix M150 or M200 is 400-410 kg / m3. Knowing this figure, as well as the proportions of the mortar given in the already familiar table, you can perform a quick and accurate calculation of any of the components of the concrete floor screed in the garage.

Please note: In garages located in areas with high groundwater levels, on steep slopes or areas where there is a risk of soil movement or flooding, it is not rational to pour a concrete screed. The floor in such rooms can be made of wooden planks on a pre-installed supporting frame.

Preparation for work

To fill the concrete floor in the garage quickly and, most importantly, without complications and errors, you should make calculations of building materials and carefully think over the algorithm of actions. At the initial stage of construction, the first task is to prepare the excavation for laying with an insulating pad and pouring rough concrete.

As part of the preparation of the garage for pouring a concrete reinforced floor screed, it is required:

Provide high-quality compaction of the earthen flooring and bring it to a uniform level.
Lay the bottom of the pit with a thick layer of oily clay to improve the quality of hydro and thermal insulation.
Cover the bottom of the pit with a gravel-sand pillow.
Prepare steam and waterproofing materials.
Install horizontal beacons to indicate the plane of the rough concrete.

For the preparation of the main material - concrete mixture - you need cement, sand and crushed stone. In the list of related materials, you must add:

Good to know: It is possible to improve the hydro- and thermal insulation qualities of a gravel-sand cushion with the help of oily clay, a dense layer of which you need to lay the bottom of the pit, not forgetting about careful compaction. When laying, it is recommended to wet the mixture of sand and gravel with plenty of water. This will ensure the sealing of the insulating cushion, which will have a positive effect on the quality of thermal and vapor barrier of the garage floor.

Pouring concrete and laying an insulating layer

If the earthen flooring in the garage is tamped down and laid with a pillow, you can start pouring rough concrete over the lighthouses. This problem is solved as follows:

A polyethylene film with a 5% margin of the floor area is laid on a gravel-sand cushion. This is necessary for waterproofing the concrete base of the screed.
Preparing on a concrete mixer concrete mix... The proportions of the main components (cement, sand and gravel or crushed stone) for the rough screed is approximately 1: 3.5: 5.6.
The concrete is poured into the pit and neatly aligned with the lighthouses.
Dried (2 days after pouring) rough screed is primed and laid with a layer of roofing material.
A reinforcing mesh with beacons is installed for the top layer of the screed.
On a concrete mixer, a mixture is prepared for a reinforced screed in a ratio of 1: 3.5 (cement + sand), which must be evenly poured over the waterproofing and leveled along the beacons.
After pouring, the concrete must be moistened with water every 10–12 hours. This will ensure that the mortar dries evenly and prevents cracking. The dried reinforced screed must be primed and covered with a thin (no more than 0.5 cm) layer of cement mortar.

It is important to remember: The screed is poured in one go. You should start from the highest point. The concrete is leveled using the rule in the direction from the far wall of the room. Upon completion of pouring and leveling the concrete, cover it with plastic wrap for several hours. After the mortar has set, after 0.5 hours from the moment of pouring, it is necessary to grout the surface with a wooden bevel.

How to dedust, level and finish

After pouring the reinforced concrete screed, the front surface of the latter needs to be leveled. But first, it must be carefully examined for cracks, chips and other defects in order to assess the amount of work to be done.

Alignment

The surface of the concrete floor can be leveled in one of the following ways:

Putting.
Grinding.
By milling.
Self-leveling fill.

Filling of concrete is carried out with a polymer-based composition with the addition of quartz sand. This method allows you to get rid of only minor surface defects, while a mosaic sander is needed to eliminate irregularities up to 5 mm deep. Unfortunately, this technique cannot cope with cavities and wave transitions with a depth of 2–3 cm; therefore, large defects are eliminated by milling.

The least time-consuming, but at the same time the most expensive way of leveling a concrete floor in a garage is to fill it with a self-leveling compound. At the same time, if the thickness of the finishing layer exceeds 15 mm, it is recommended to use a polymer-cement screed, while with a leveling thickness of no more than 8 mm, you can get by with cheaper polymerised sand concrete.

In the presence of critical surface defects and significant differences in height, it is necessary to perform an additional screed with a thickness of 1–8 cm, which will not only level, but also strengthen the top layer of reinforced concrete. This is done in several stages:

Good to know: The leveling screed mixture is prepared in small portions. During the filling process, air bubbles, large lumps and random debris are removed using a metal rake or a shaft with a needle nozzle.

Dedusting concrete screed

Untreated concrete is characterized by intense dust formation, since due to the accumulation of solidified cement laitance on the surface, the mechanical strength of the floor is significantly reduced.

Failure to dedust when pouring the screed in a car garage will result in:

an increase in the intensity and deepening of concrete erosion;
constant pollution and dusting of the garage space;
the manifestation of squeaks and crunch when moving on the floor;
dust getting into moving and rubbing units of equipment and machinery working in the garage;
decrease in the comfort of staying in the garage and the emergence of health risks for the car owner.

Dusting the surface of the concrete screed involves the use of reinforcing mineral or polymer impregnations. As for the former, the most common options are compounds based on sodium silicate or lithium polysilicate.

When interacting with calcium compounds on the concrete surface, they form a glassy structure, which not only protects the screed from destruction, but provides it with additional strength. The disadvantages of mineral dedusting include:

the duration of the course of chemical processes (from several weeks to several months);
the risk of reverse alkali-silicate reactions;
labor intensity of applying the composition;
the need for thorough rinsing of the screed after absorption.

Lithium polysilicate is the most practical, but also very expensive means of mineral dedusting. Its absorption takes place within 10-14 days, after which the screed does not need to be washed and re-treated throughout the entire period of the floor's operation.

Organic (polymer) dedusting agents include impregnations of the following types:

acrylic (used to process screeds with standard strength requirements);
polyurethane (strengthen concrete, providing high water-repellent properties and inertness of the material to the effects of chemicals);
epoxy (used in rooms with restrictions on the use of compounds with a pungent odor).

Dedusting the concrete floor screed in the garage is carried out in three stages:

When processing the screed, the dedusting compound is applied in bulk and evenly spread over the surface with a brush or squeegee.

Good to know: When using silicate impregnation the absorption process takes about 40-60 minutes. During this time, the remaining impregnation becomes viscous, therefore it must be diluted with water before reapplying. 20-30 minutes after the end of the treatment, the impregnation must be removed with a rubber squeegee.

Finishing

In addition to dedusting impregnation, the screed can be coated with a water-repellent paint, having previously been primed. Painting will exclude contact of the floor with moisture and aggressive chemicals, as well as prevent mechanical damage and premature wear of concrete.

At a high intensity of operational loads, it is advisable to protect the screed from cracking and destruction by cutting expansion joints. The latter can perform the function:

isolation of the floor from the structural elements of the building in order to dampen vibrations and chemical interaction of materials;
insulation of concrete monoliths laid at different times;
stress relief in case of uneven drying and shrinkage of concrete.

Good to know: The seams are cut after the screed has dried, followed by their strengthening and sealing.

Video: Pouring a concrete screed in the garage with your own hands

Self-laying wooden floor

Despite the disadvantages of wood as a building material, it is widely used for laying floor coverings, including in garages. The floor, made of this material, absorbs moisture in the air well, thanks to which the metal components of the car receive additional protection from rust. In addition, wood flooring is completely safe and much more comfortable to work in a garage than concrete. And, unlike the latter, wood does not create any dust, and, if necessary, allows for prompt repairs or replacement of worn out or damaged elements of the garage floor.

The choice of installation method for wood flooring depends on the type of substrate installed in the room. If a rough concrete screed is poured in the garage, the floor cladding is performed with a thick (from 5 cm) edged board.

The latter is laid on transverse lags of a small section (50 * 50 mm), resting directly on a waterproofing pad or on the walls of the room. Fixation of wooden structural elements is carried out with nails, screws or anchors. In the event that at the base of the garage there is an earthen embankment, clay or gravel-sand cushion, the structure of the wooden floor will have to be provided with thick transverse logs (beams) supported on the walls or the foundation of the room.

Another option for arranging a plank flooring in a garage involves the installation of load-bearing posts on an earthen or concrete base, on which the frame of the structure will rest.

Good to know: Before installing a wooden floor earth base in the garage, it can be poured with rough concrete. However, this option is noticeably costly and very time consuming, therefore it is rarely used in practice. In most cases, a tamped sand and gravel pad is used as a substrate for wood flooring.

What materials for the construction of a wooden floor to choose

If you plan to install wood flooring in your garage, the first thing to do is choose the right material. The most financially profitable option is softwood. Having a relatively low cost, it resists wear well, is of little interest to pests and has high mechanical strength. In the same time conifer tree prone to cracking, and its knotty and resinous properties indicate certain difficulties in processing.

When choosing a tree for laying a floor in a garage, you should be guided by the following principles:

The material must have optimal moisture content. Too dry wood will not cope with intense mechanical stress, and excessively wet wood deforms over time.
Boards and load-bearing logs with pronounced defects - cracks, knots, splits or tar spots - are not worth buying even at a discount. Such material will cause a lot of trouble not only during processing, but also during the operation of the floor.
The material is purchased with a 15% margin.
Floor boards must be at least 2 m long.
Whenever possible, the board and the timber are taken from the same batch. This allows you to count on the same behavior of wooden floor elements during operation.
You should buy polished boards, which will greatly simplify the task of preparing the tree for the installation and operation of the floor in the garage.

Wood flooring can be single or double construction. It is advisable to use the second option if it is necessary to insulate the floor, but this can also be done with a single plank flooring.

The optimal solution for arranging wooden flooring in the garage is a grooved spruce or pine board 36 mm thick and 20 cm wide or relatively cheap, but less reliable edged board 40-50 mm thick.

The cladding is mounted on a mounting plate, the functions of which will be performed by a beam with a section of 20 * 40 mm.

It is advisable to use dry beams with a section of 150 * 100 mm as load-bearing logs for a wooden floor.

The distance between them with the above-mentioned sheathing thickness is recommended to be taken equal to 700 mm. Now, knowing the internal area of the room, it will not be difficult to calculate the amount of materials for laying a wooden floor.

Please note: When laying a wooden floor on joists on a soil base, the height of the structure should be taken into account. Together with hydro- and vapor barrier, as well as mounting strips, it will be about 20 cm.Also you need to remember that when the log is supported on the walls or the foundation of the garage, at least 15 cm is added to the useful length of the timber from each end, to which it will be recessed into walls.

Tool and related materials

Before starting work on arranging a wooden floor in the garage, you should assemble the tools necessary to perform the related operations. The list should include:

building level or tubular hydraulic level;
laser level;
screwdriver;
a hacksaw for wood and a jigsaw;
carpentry hammer;
carpentry chisel;
an electric drill with a perforator function and a set of drills for metal and concrete;
screwdriwer set;
nail puller;
axe;
measuring tape and pencil (marker);
brushes for protective and finishing wood processing;
mounting stapler;
construction knife.

In addition to basic materials, before starting construction, you need to stock up on:

assembly means (self-tapping screws, screws, bolts or anchors);
emery;
building plaster;
waterproofing and vapor barrier;
insulation (if necessary);
means for protecting wood from pests, fire, dampness and decay;
paints and varnishes for finishing the floor.

It is important to remember: If you need to equip a rough concrete screed, you will need a tool for earthwork and concrete preparation. The volume of the components of the latter is calculated based on the actual area of the base of the floor and the required height of the concrete layer. Also, do not forget about the compaction of the ground flooring and gravel-sand substrate. They must be completed before starting the main construction.

Correct installation of the frame

Getting started, it is necessary to impregnate the wood with a fire retardant and antiseptic composition. The processed material is placed in the garage. Here he will wait in the wings for several days until the moisture content of the wood stabilizes. But first, you should lower the level of the soil flooring to the level required by the project, carefully tamp it and cover it with a sand or gravel-sand cushion. In addition, supply and exhaust ventilation openings must be provided in the subfloor space. They are performed on longitudinal walls at opposite corners of the room, while the total exhaust ventilation output by a separate channel, the output of which is located under the ceiling.

The algorithm for laying a wooden floor on logs on a soil base will be as follows:

The surface of the tamped cushion is laid with a layer of roofing material or plastic wrap to ensure waterproofing of the floor structure.
The ends of the transverse logs, resting on the walls or the foundation of the garage, are covered with waterproofing mastic or wrapped in roofing material, so that the tree will not be afraid of contact with concrete or brick.
First of all, load-bearing logs are installed - they are placed at opposite walls of the garage with a gap of up to 5 cm.For mounting a timber in a wall masonry or foundation using a perforator or manually, recesses are made, the dimensions of which (area and shape of the section) must correspond to the parameters of the lined timber. Also, taking into account the installation length of the end, an additional temperature gap should be provided in the niche.
Lags are mounted in prepared recesses with obligatory control of the horizontal level. The latter is adjusted using small wooden or plywood wedges covered with waterproofing mastic. Installation is carried out with anchors or using a quick-drying plaster mortar.
In a similar way, the remaining crossbars are installed along the beacons installed on the walls of the garage and rope marks stretched between the extreme logs.

Please note: The transverse joists are laid perpendicular to the movement of the vehicle, and the trim parallel. Floor level beacons must be installed before starting work. It is advisable to tighten the rope marks after the end cross-members have been installed.

Floor sheathing

The finished flooring frame is covered with a vapor barrier gasket, which is attached to the joists with construction brackets.

It is also necessary to consider filling the voids under the cladding. This is necessary for thermal insulation of the floor, as well as equalization of temperature and humidity under the floor and in the garage. It is possible to fill the space of the subfloor directly during the installation process, for which materials such as expanded clay, sand, gravel-sand mixture or mineral wool. With a lack of free time and funds, the event can be planned for the near future, but always before the change of seasons.

Floor cladding is carried out in several steps:

Good to know: It is advisable to place the sheathing elements in a checkerboard pattern, due to which the floor structure will receive an additional margin of safety.

How to protect and treat a wooden base

At the end installation works it is necessary to once again treat the front surface of the boards with an antiseptic and soak in means of protection against pests and fires.

The cladding must be completely dry and then covered with several coats of varnish or paint. Finishing will protect the front surface of the floor from moisture, aggressive chemicals, condensation and mechanical wear.

Video: Self-installation of a wooden garage floor

How and how to insulate the floor in the garage?

According to the requirements of SNiP 21-02-99 "Car parking" in the garage, it is recommended to maintain a temperature regime of +5 o C and a stable level of humidity. Such conditions can be provided with the help of high-quality ventilation (inflow of at least 180 cubic meters / hour), as well as insulation of gates, walls, ceiling and floor, equipped in the garage.

The main characteristics of insulation and its types

The choice of insulation for the flooring depends on the type, design features of the latter and, of course, the local climate in which the garage is operated. In any case, thermal insulation must have such characteristics as:

Non-flammability.
Environmental Safety.
Low thermal conductivity.
Easy to store, handle and stack.
Durability.
Resistance to wear, moisture and temperature extremes, as well as other aggressive operating factors, including the development of harmful microorganisms.

Modern thermal insulation materials differ in several categories:

silicate (glass wool and its varieties, perlite);
mineral (expanded clay, cement mortars with special additives, mineral wool);
polymeric (polystyrene and its derivatives, polyurethane);
wood-shaving (plywood, chipboard, sawdust and materials based on them).

Please note: In order to make the right decision on the thermal insulation of the garage floor, it is necessary to carefully study and compare the characteristics of the heaters available on the market.

Properties of popular thermal insulation materials (expanded clay, polystyrene, etc.)

In practice, the most widely used types of thermal insulation are:

expanded clay;

The main advantage of this material is its low cost. It has high mechanical strength and low thermal conductivity, copes well with humidity, temperature fluctuations and exposure to chemicals. At the same time, expanded clay has a significant disadvantage: the normal thickness of the insulating layer is at least 30 cm, which makes it impractical to use it in rooms with a low ceiling. It is optimal to use the material for insulation of concrete floors.

Styrofoam;

A characteristic feature of this insulation is its versatility. Polyfoam has low thermal conductivity, is not afraid of moisture and excludes the possibility of mold development. With a relatively low cost of the material, its use can significantly reduce the thickness of the thermal insulation strip. It is advisable to use polyfoam for insulation of a concrete floor, but at the same time it is worth considering its disadvantages - low mechanical strength, fire hazard and inability to withstand the effects of chemicals.

polystyrene concrete;

This material is a versatile insulation that can be used as a substrate for both concrete and wooden floors. Its main advantages are high mechanical strength with an insignificant thickness of the thermal insulation layer, as well as enviable resistance to moisture and sudden changes. temperature regime... Polystyrene concrete is inert to chemical reactions and is not of interest to fungal microorganisms. At the same time, it provides a perfectly flat surface of the thermal pad and is able to serve for more than one decade. Almost the only drawback of this insulation is its impressive cost.

glass wool and mineral wool;

These are roll materials belonging to the budgetary category of insulation. They are universal in use, but are mainly used for thermal insulation of wooden floor coverings. Glass wool and mineral wool have high thermal insulation characteristics and have excellent steam conductivity. Meanwhile, they can cause a lot of inconvenience during installation, and during operation they can emit harmful components into the atmosphere. As a result, and also because of the tendency of the material to absorb moisture, the insulating gasket needs to be equipped with a ventilation gap and reliable isolation from the inner space of the garage.

ecowool;

This material belongs to the class of loose insulation and can be used for thermal insulation of all types of floor coverings. Ecowool is characterized by high thermal insulation performance with a small thickness of the gasket. Meanwhile, this insulation does not tolerate contact with moisture and weakly resists the effects of temperature changes, therefore, requires additional waterproofing. Most often, equata is used for insulating wooden flooring on a concrete base.

penoizol;

It is a liquid thermal insulation material, which is a derivative of polystyrene foam. Penoizol can be used to insulate any floor covering, including concrete and wood. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, is not afraid of either moisture or temperature extremes, and it allows air to pass well, which contributes to the formation of a comfortable microclimate in the room. The disadvantages of penoizol are low wear resistance, flammability and a very high price.

thermal insulation foil.

This material is supplied in rolls or in the form of solid boards, including interlayers of foam or mineral wool. Its main feature is the ability to reflect heat from one side of the thermal insulation pad and prevent it from leaking from the other. Foil insulation is impervious to moisture, indifferent to sudden temperature changes and does not contribute to the development of fungal colonies. The main disadvantage of this material is its high cost. But it is equally convenient for thermal insulation of both concrete and wooden floor coverings.

When choosing a heater for a floor in a garage, the main attention should be paid to four criteria: the thermal conductivity index, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer, the durability of the material and its cost. The ratio of these characteristics should be optimal for a particular garage space and correspond to the budget of its owner.

Self-warming of a concrete floor

Insulation of concrete flooring in a garage can be performed in several stages, corresponding to the stages of construction of the latter:

Before pouring the rough concrete.
For waterproofing the concrete base before placing the top reinforced concrete layer.
On a rough concrete screed with the subsequent installation of a raised floor, including a plank.

Consider the algorithm for the insulation of a concrete floor at the stage of preparation for pouring a reinforced floor screed. In this case, the best option for thermal insulation would be foam plastic with a thickness of 10 cm and a density of 30 kg / m. Warming is performed in the following order:

Good to know: To improve the quality of thermal insulation when laying foam sheets, the seams between them are sealed with polyurethane foam. When laying the reinforcement mesh and fixing it with glue, it is necessary to control the horizontal level of the substrate surface. Finally, it is possible to increase the strength indicators of the finishing screed, poured over the selected substrate, by adding extradited polystyrene foam granules to the solution.

We insulate the wooden floor with our own hands

Thermal insulation of wood flooring at the initial stage of its construction is not a difficult task. It is carried out in a standard manner: after laying the sand cushion, a layer of waterproofing is installed, then transverse logs are mounted, then insulation and vapor barrier are laid, and, finally, the floor is covered with boards. In the event that it is necessary to thermally insulate the finished wooden floor, it will have to be partially or, more likely, completely disassembled.

The most commonly used material for insulating plank flooring is mineral wool, supplied in the form of slabs or flexible mats. In combination with such thermal insulation, you should use high-quality waterproofing, as well as a vapor barrier gasket. Otherwise, the insulation will actively absorb moisture, which will lead to rotting of the wooden floor elements.

The method of insulating a plank flooring with mineral wool is as follows:

Good to know: Mineral wool there are three types - slag, basalt (stone) and glass. Their cost varies significantly and largely depends on the type of material (roll, plate or flexible mat). For insulation of a wooden floor, a matte material on a basalt or slag base is ideal. The upper plane of the mineral wool is marked, which is important to remember when laying.

Competent arrangement of flooring in the garage will allow you to create optimal conditions for storing cars and caring for them on a daily basis. The choice of materials for the construction of the floor and its design depends on the operating conditions of the room, as well as the dimensions and weight. vehicle... Subject to the requirements for preparation, installation, waterproofing and vapor barrier, as well as finishing floor covering, the latter will last as long as possible, without causing any trouble to the garage owner.

A garage is a narrowly functional room, the design of which must meet special requirements. In a limited area, you need to distribute a tangible load, so the floor in the garage is best made of strong, wear-resistant materials.

Basic requirements for flooring in a garage

Any car has a significant weight and requires constant maintenance using a set of tools that increase the load on the floor surface, so it is better to provide several features if you start to arrange the floor in the garage:

The strength and resistance of the material to mechanical stress, the floor in the garage is subjected to high dynamic loads almost every day, so it must have a solid foundation.
The top coat must be resistant to chemical compositions and do not react to the penetration of fuels and lubricants (POL).
Moisture resistance of the material - it is impossible to exclude the seasonal penetration of moisture into the garage when enough water and snow gets from the wheels or fenders of the car.
Fire retardant garage flooring will provide fire protection and prevent smoke from spreading.

Based on the above criteria, you can exclude materials such as wood and linoleum to make a garage floor. There is an opinion that if wood is impregnated with special substances, then it will become suitable material in order to make the floor in the garage, however, over time, the fire retardant composition loses its properties, and the constant spreading of fuels and lubricants increases the risk of fire.

Important! Only a few materials are suitable for making garage floors, among which are concrete or cement screed followed by the installation of a finishing coating or modern polymer floors (acrylic, polyurethane, epoxy). If you choose the option with polymer floors, then you will also have to do the initial pouring of the concrete base.

Pouring concrete screed

The main problem when laying a concrete base is the interaction between the concrete and the adjacent soil, which should not be mobile or contain water. In order to prevent Negative consequences from excess moisture, you need to pour gravel chips, which will take over the drainage functions and the excess water will go away. The gravel embankment, which should be at least 10 cm thick, is covered with a sand layer of the same height, which is noticeable in the photo, in order to compact the fill layer and strengthen the adhesion to concrete.

Waterproofing is a necessary element in order to exclude the penetration of water from the ground into the garage area. For this, a material such as a dense polyethylene film is used, which must be laid with canvases with an overlap of 20 cm one on top of the other. Next, a concrete pad is poured, which should be 20 cm thick; to align it, the installation of beacons is used to spend less time and material on leveling the final screed. The concrete pad must be reinforced with a reinforcing mesh with a thickness of at least 10 mm, as in the photo.

At the final stage, the floor in the garage is poured cement screed, to strengthen which, you also need to use a metal mesh with 10x10 cm cells. The screed must also be covered with polyethylene and left to dry until it becomes a light shade, which indicates the complete absence of water in the screed. For the final leveling of the floor, self-leveling mixtures can be used, to which plasticizers are added to improve performance.

If the surrounding conditions allow you to easily wash the car in the garage, then the floors should be poured with a slight slope to quickly drain dirty water.

Garage flooring

Various materials can be used to create a clean garage floor:

topping system- it is used to strengthen the concrete-cement surface and can be both the final version of the floor finish and the preparatory one for laying the topcoat; hardening topping mixtures consist of crystalline quartz or corundum rocks with the addition of metal powder;

floor tiles- this is the most common option when choosing finishing materials for a garage, in order to lay out tiles with tiles, it is better to use frost-resistant porcelain stoneware, which is able to withstand an increased load; porcelain stoneware "gres" - unenamelled single-fired ceramic tiles, very durable, produced different colors and shades; porcelain stoneware tiles have remarkable technological indicators: low water absorption, resistance to abrasive loads and exposure to chemicals, a variety of colors and patterns; porcelain stoneware withstands shock and temperature changes better;

rubber cover- an option available to everyone, inexpensive and durable, it is made from fractional crumbs obtained from old car tires, thick rubber comes in rolls or tiles that can be laid very easily; the coating has an embossed non-slip structure; when laying it is better to use an adhesive composition intended for outdoor work;

modular flooring for a garage - such a coating is assembled according to the type of puzzles, the main component for its production is polyvinyl chloride, which provides increased strength and elasticity of the coating; if you choose a PVC floor covering, then you don't even need to glue it to the base, because the installation takes place by joining special locks; PVC coating is antistatic, has a rough surface with an anti-slip effect and you can purchase a coating of any shape and color, as you can see in the photo;

painting the concrete base- the cheapest option for finishing, but ordinary paints wear off and peel off over time, therefore it is better to use a special impregnation for concrete, which penetrates into the thickness by 2-3 cm and stably stays on the floor for a long time; it is noticeable in the photo that paints for concrete allow you to choose the desired color; latex, one- and two-component epoxy paints must be applied in accordance with the attached instructions in order to achieve a lasting result; you need to calculate your capabilities so as to paint in one step, since the paint dries quickly.

Particularly demanding garage owners use the concrete polishing technique, which consists of several stages: cleaned concrete surface without cracks and drops, it is sanded using abrasive mechanisms, the concrete is impregnated with hardening mixtures and polishing begins, after which the surface must be finished with several layers of polyurethane varnish. If to achieve an impressive decorative effect add granite or marble chips to the concrete, the polished surface will acquire a unique pattern. Looking at the photo, you can see that the polished concrete floors have an interesting intricate texture.

Polymeric floor covering for a garage combines many advantages - both high technological properties and an attractive appearance. The polymer coating is made from special mixtures that are easy to mix and spread over the plane of the floor with a needle roller. If the resulting polymer mixture is of the correct liquid consistency, then it is capable of self-leveling, and the master needs to remove possible air bubbles from the mixture with thorns on the roller. Before this, you need to repeatedly prime the concrete base with binding mixtures in order to prepare the surface for applying a polymer coating. Dry floors must be sanded and painted to achieve the flawless effect shown in the photo below.

When starting to make a floor in a garage, car owners first of all face the problem of choosing a material. Indeed, today's building materials market is so vast that it is very easy to get confused in the offered variety of products. In order to avoid this, you should familiarize yourself with several basic criteria and characteristics that the floors of any garage must meet.

Floor requirements:

High resistance to acids, oils and gasoline, as well as other petroleum products and aggressive chemicals.
Resistance to mechanical stress, strength and long service life.
High fire safety and moisture resistance.

Types of floors

Concrete floor with or without ceramic tiles.
Reinforced concrete slab.
Filled polymer floor.

Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Concrete

In order to make the floor in the garage with your own hands from concrete as high as possible, you need to take into account three important factors:

the possibility of flooding the site;
its slope;
ground water level.

Before starting work, the site for creating the floor must be prepared. For this, a kind of multi-layer "pillow" is laid. The layers in it are arranged in the following order:

gravel;
river sand;
a layer of waterproofing material;
insulation;
film;
reinforced concrete floor;
finishing screed (also reinforced).

The first step in making a concrete floor is tamping and leveling the surface. Then the prepared surface is coated with liquid clay for waterproofing.

After that, the future floor must be marked. In order not to get confused, professionals recommend pulling the reference cord. Further along the walls, wooden posts are placed (with a step of about a meter). With their help, it will then be possible to easily determine the height of the "powder". Having installed the posts, you can start filling the gravel. Its thickness may vary depending on conditions. If conditions are favorable, then 30-45 centimeters will be sufficient. The maximum thickness of the gravel layer can reach 80 centimeters. The resulting layer must be covered with sand. The sand layer is about 10 cm thick.

The next step is the waterproofing of the floor, which must be placed between the concrete and the filter cushion. As a waterproofing material, as a rule, a polyethylene film - PVC with a thickness of 250-300 microns is used. Lay this film with an overlap. Film strips are glued with PVC tape. If necessary, the concrete floor can be insulated with 10 cm thick polystyrene foam or roll insulation. Further, regardless of the type of heat insulator, it must be covered with a film.

After the waterproofing has been carried out, they begin to create the so-called "subfloor". To do this, you need a 10x10 cm metal mesh (the diameter of the rods is about 5 mm). It covers the entire surface of the future floor.

Next, wooden slats are installed with a height of 10 cm and a length of 1-2 meters. They are necessary in order to pour concrete in strips (that is, in the space between these battens). The height of these slats is essentially the height of the "subfloor".

After the concrete is poured, it must be leveled with a special rule-rail. Alignment is done from the far wall and towards the doorway. After completing the installation, cover each concrete strip with foil and allow the concrete to harden (3-4 weeks).

The final stage of creating a concrete floor is pouring the finishing screed. The algorithm of actions during its implementation is similar to the procedure for filling the "sub-floor". More detailed instructions can be found on the screed bag.

The main advantage of the ceramic coating is moisture resistance and resistance in contact with chemically active substances. In addition, the floor is coated with ceramic tiles easy to clean. It is very easy to wash and it looks great. There is, of course, such a floor covering and a drawback. Like any ceramic product, tiles are characterized by low impact resistance. Therefore, it is recommended to cover with it individual sections of the garage, and not its entire area.

Bulk

A floor made using self-leveling mixtures on a polymer or cement base is considered the most durable coating. It does not have seams that negatively affect the integrity of the flooring, being its weakest point.

Self-leveling floors are made on a polymer or cement basis. The most common and simplest way is to pour a self-leveling cement-based floor instead of a final screed directly onto a concrete "sub-floor".

The polymer coating, although it is more expensive, is, however, more frost-resistant, antistatic, less susceptible to chemical and vibration influences, and is also able to withstand fire. The warranty period of polymer-based self-leveling floors ranges from 45 years to half a century.

Floor covering "Make the FLOOR"

Such a floor is often called the "Dream of a garage", since with a small thickness of such a coating, it is possible to achieve an excellent result at a low price. This composition can be applied to any surface, choosing the desired color, but the most important thing is that you can do it yourself. By applying just 1 layer, you can get a wear-resistant coating.

To work you will need:

Instructions on paper or video review.
Two components of the composition.
Stirring paddle.
Rubber gloves.
A tray for paint.
Paint roller.

The components of this high-tech raw material based on epoxy resins form a waterproofing surface that is highly resistant to mechanical stress. Additional work is not required to prepare the surface, since this coating has high waterproofing properties, which are an obstacle to water, as well as oil and fuel. Such a floor is easy to clean, and if defects appear, they can be easily repaired. In addition, the composition includes special acrylic chips, which not only make such a coating attractive, but also hide irregularities and minor surface defects, and also prevent slipping. Due to its versatility, such a coating will last a long time.

Laying the floor covering

The works are carried out at positive temperatures, ranging from + 10 ° С to + 25 ° С. First, the base must be stirred with a spatula for 3 minutes, and then pour the entire hardener into it. Stir for another 5 minutes, let stand, and stir again. After pouring the mixture into a paint tray, apply it to the surface to be treated with a roller. Consumption should be in the range of 250 - 275 g / m².

Flocks are applied every 1.5–2 meters on the painted surface by spreading them evenly. After completing this procedure, eliminate any walking on the newly painted surface. Also, make sure that no dust, dirt, water, etc. gets on the surface within 24 hours. After this period of time, the mixture will stop sticking, and already on the fourth day the floor is ready for maximum loads.

The choice of material for the garage floor is quite difficult question, which everyone who decides to equip the flooring in this room will face. The most in a simple way to equip the garage floor can be considered a concrete screed, but the concrete does not fully meet all the requirements for covering in the garage. Among the finishing materials that eliminate the shortcomings of concrete are: porcelain stoneware, polymer compounds, rubber tiles, wooden planks... The garage floor has to be heavily impacted environment, what is the best choice for flooring?

Garage floor requirements

The floor in the garage must withstand certain mechanical and chemical influences, so the material for it should be chosen taking into account several features. The main characteristics of a garage floor are its strength and resistance to mechanical stress from a large vehicle weight.

You drive your car out of the garage and drive back in every day, sometimes several times a day. Each such entry and exit threatens floor damage of a mechanical nature due to the impressive mass of the vehicle. In addition, many place shelves for storing unnecessary things, which also weigh a lot. If the garage floor is made incorrectly, then from such loads it will very quickly become unusable.

How to cover the garage floor? When choosing a material, think about the resistance of this coating to fuels and lubricants. Fuels and lubricants will always get on the garage floor, so the floor must be chemically resistant to such contamination. Even if you carefully use containers of oils, antifreezes and other automotive fluids, the appearance of oil stains on the floor is inevitable. Some floor coverings, such as laminate or linoleum, will not withstand such a chemical attack.

The presence of fuels and lubricants in the garage makes it impractical to lay a wooden floor. Wood is a fire hazardous material, especially if there are flammable substances in the neighborhood. Many still prefer to make the floor in the garage from wood, but pre-impregnated with special compounds.

The floor covering should be as stable as possible.

The garage floor must be moisture resistant, as water and snow constantly get into the garage from the wheels of a car or just from the street. The same wood is unlikely to like such dampness in the autumn-winter period.

It makes sense to make a warm floor in the garage when the garage is attached to the house and the heating system of the garage floor can be connected to the common building. Implementing a separate project for the installation of a warm water or electric floor in the garage is expensive and impractical.

How to make a concrete base?

The arrangement of any garage floor begins with a high-quality cement-sand screed that you can do yourself. The resulting cement or concrete base can then either be used as an independent floor or covered with the chosen flooring material.

How to make a concrete floor in a garage? This can be done in two ways: reinforced concrete slab overlap or pour a cement-sand screed. In the first case, special equipment will be required, that is, you will have to attract hired workers who will perform necessary work- it is very problematic to lay a concrete slab on your own. In the second case, you will need less cash costs, but more labor costs. It will take a lot of time to complete the cement screed.

A screed is required in any situation, even if you decide in favor of arranging a warm floor in the garage. You can fill it only not on a sloping area. If you are planning to build a garage on a slope, then the only option is to lay the finished reinforced concrete slab.

The concrete floor is poured onto leveled soil, from which the loose soil layer has been previously removed.

It is best not only to remove the top layer, but also cover the compacted soil with clay, and then cover it with layers of sand and gravel. Further, it is recommended to lay a waterproofing layer, the functions of which can be performed by a polyethylene film with a thickness of more than 200 microns or roofing material. It is overlapped and sealed with tape. The edges of the film must be brought onto the walls up to the height of the future screed.

Waterproofing is a mandatory step in the arrangement of the screed.

A metal mesh or other reinforcing material is laid on the waterproofing layer, which will provide strength to the future garage floor. After the completion of all these works, the screed itself can be poured. The finished screed must be properly dried: the floor dries within 4 weeks. At this time, the surface of the screed is covered with a film and periodically moistened to avoid cracks.

Which garage floor is the best: pre-cast concrete slab or poured screed? It is impossible to answer this question unequivocally. Both options are similar in terms of basic characteristics, but filling the screed will cost less.

Any concrete base has one significant drawback - a fragile top layer, which, during operation, quickly wears out and becomes saturated with oil, gasoline and other substances that live in the garage.

Concrete base finishing

To eliminate the lack of a concrete base in the form of a fragile top layer, it is recommended to finish the garage floor with a more resistant flooring material. What options can you choose from?

Garage floor tiles appear to be the preferred flooring method available, as they meet most of the requirements described earlier. Tiles are used to cover garage floors quite often, making them a classic option that can be implemented on their own.

When laying it, it is important to follow a few rules. If you decide to make tiles on the garage floor yourself, then remember that it is recommended to lay it on a thin layer of adhesive. Before starting work, you should familiarize yourself with the photo of the process in order to understand how the masters apply the glue. Carrying out work in this way will ensure that there are no voids between the concrete base and the tile itself. Another important issue is the choice of adhesive: not every adhesive is suitable for a garage floor.

It is better to refuse universal glue, since it is not intended for outdoor conditions.

When choosing a tile type, pay attention to frost-resistant porcelain stoneware, the characteristics of which are resistant to harsh weather and abrasion. Porcelain stoneware is produced in the form of large square elements, which will not be difficult to lay. Many people make their garage floor from paving slabs, another type of flooring suitable for outdoor conditions.

Porcelain stoneware.

Another fairly practical and durable option is to cover your garage floor with rubber tiles. The thick rubber layer is resistant to high humidity, spilled fuels and lubricants, and abrasion. The advantages of a rubber covering for a garage are its reasonable price, ease of installation and unpretentiousness during operation.

The easiest way to strengthen the top layer of a concrete base is to paint it. This is a fairly good and budget option for a garage floor, but it has a significant drawback: the paint wears off over time, so the floor will have to be constantly updated. The frequency of reapplication of a layer of paint depends on the quality of the material, most often the work will have to be carried out every six months.

What paint to cover the garage floor? Better to stop at modern materials... Many manufacturers offer acrylic and epoxy protective paints, and specialty polyurethane materials are available for sale. A good alternative to paints is a special impregnation for concrete surfaces, since it penetrates into the base to a depth of three centimeters. This interaction of the protective composition with the concrete slab provides a high abrasion resistance of the floor.

What other options are there? Garage floors can also be made of wood. Despite its fire hazard, some prefer this particular material - familiar, durable and beautiful. Boards with a thickness of 5 cm or more can really boast of high strength, such a coating will not be afraid of the weight of the car. But installing a wooden floor will take a decent amount of time and money. Plank flooring in a garage requires high-quality sawn timber, which is quite expensive.

After assembly, the plank floor cannot be left "as is", the boards must be treated with special compounds that protect the tree from moisture, insects, rot and the effects of fuels and lubricants.

Wooden floor - not the best solution for the garage.

The modern solution to the question of what kind of flooring in the garage is to be done is polymer floors. This is one of the ideal garage floor coverings. If the coating is made with high quality, then its performance characteristics will be at a height even after a long period of use and high loads. A big disadvantage of a polymer floor is its high cost. While such coverage looks appropriate at a car wash or a garage complex for renting out parking spaces, then it is economically inexpedient to spend on it for your own garage.

Which gender to choose?

The final version of the floor in the garage depends on the wishes of the owner and his financial capabilities. Concrete base it is recommended to do it anyway. A concrete slab or concrete screed will be a good base, even if you don't do any further finishing.

A polymer coating is the best option for a floor.

How to make a garage floor so that it is strong, durable and beautiful - among all the options described, the best one is porcelain stoneware. It will not be easy to assemble it yourself, and the cost of the material will add up to a large amount, but your garage will have a really good solid floor. The most the best option for a garage floor, you can recognize a polymer coating, but since the costs for it are too high, it is better to abandon that idea. Laying colorful tiles on the floor in the garage is also useless. The option with the use of rubber tiles – available material which is easy to lay by yourself.

When choosing a garage floor covering, compare features and cost different options... It is recommended to stop your choice on coatings that are affordable and acceptable in terms of characteristics. Decision on flooring for a garage should not be based on fashion or a desire to surprise friends. Warm floor in the garage or another expensive, but modern and fashionable design, is unlikely to be appreciated. A garage floor should be durable and practical, not trendy.

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