Making a ship model with your own hands. Ship model manufacturing technology

In modeling, plywood is the most demanded material. This is due to high quality indicators, as well as ease of operation. Plywood sheets are very easy to cut, quite simple to process. Using a suitable scheme (drawing), you can make ships out of plywood with your own hands.

Plywood is a versatile material that is easy to cut and process different ways, therefore, it is with plywood patterns that it is recommended to start your acquaintance with modeling.

Building a ship yourself is a pretty interesting experience. But in order to start performing complex models, you need to practice on the lighter ones.

Materials and tools

To create stucco patterns on board the ship, you need to prepare your own composition, from which you can form reliefs. The following tools and materials must be prepared for the solution:

  • wood dust;
  • PVA glue (on average, one ship model can take about half a liter of glue);
  • plasticine for creating small irregularities and patterns;

Materials and tools used during ship simulation:

Birch plywood will provide a minimum amount of chips when sawing.

  • plywood of the required thickness;
  • Super glue;
  • sandpaper for surface treatment;
  • nylon thread;
  • jigsaw for cutting out parts;
  • construction knife;
  • wood for the mast. It is better to use pine, as it is much easier to process;
  • dye;
  • small brushes;
  • Chinese sticks;
  • sail fabric;
  • a thread;
  • pencil ruler.

Modeling wood should be soft, not fibrous. The most popular options are cedar, linden, walnut. Everything wooden blanks must be perfectly flat, without knots and damage. It can be used as an additional element to create decorative pieces. Also, wood can be used to create the main elements of the model, such as the deck, hull.

Plywood in modeling is the most demanded material. In such a direction as modeling, birch or balsa plywood is most often used. This is due to the fact that these types of wood practically do not chip during sawing. To make a boat out of plywood, it is necessary to use sheets with a thickness of 0.8-2 mm.

A simple diagram of a plywood ship model.

Veneer - sheet material, very thin, made of valuable wood species. In most cases, veneer is used as a facing material. They are pasted over products that are made of inexpensive material.

Fasteners will perform not only the main task of fastening parts, but also perform a decorative role. To create a model of a boat, you need to prepare thin chains (several sizes can be used), laces, threads, copper or brass nails. In order to transfer the drawing from the sheet to the plywood, it is best to use tracing paper and a pencil. This will make the drawing detailed. Use glue to hold the plywood together. Fine detailing can be made by metal casting, use polymer clay, or independently prepare a solution from wood dust and PVA glue. After complete drying, such a mass is very durable, and it can be painted in the desired color.

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Preparatory work

If this is the first time a plywood ship is being modeled, it is recommended to purchase kits in which all the details have already been cut and processed. But its cost can sometimes be quite high. Therefore, with a great desire and diligence, experience can be gained in the process of carrying out work on assembling your ship. Modeling, like other types of work, necessarily begins with the preparatory stage. The first thing to start with is what kind of ship will be modeled. To begin with, it is worth looking at the various drawings and finished works, this will greatly facilitate the choice of the model.

After examining the entire drawing, it is worth checking the presence of all necessary materials and tools to get the job done. Modeling ships is a jewel case. It takes a lot of time and perseverance.

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to make paper or cardboard templates for all parts. After that, they are all transferred to plywood. On this preparatory stage the work can be considered completed.

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Manufacturing of parts

In order to make all the parts, cut them out of plywood sheet, an appropriate tool must be used. For work, you can use manual jigsaw but, if possible, it is better to use the electric model option. The use of the second option will significantly reduce the time for the manufacture of all elements. This is especially true for the smallest details.

The sawn workpieces are processed with a file, removing chips and burrs.

In order to cut out a part, a hole is made in the plywood, into which the jigsaw file is located. It is worth cutting out all the details very carefully, while observing all the contour boundaries, since inaccurately cut details can then ruin appearance the whole ship. Each sawn-off workpiece must be filed from the ends. In the process of such stripping, it is necessary to remove a small part of the chamfer, where chips and burrs have formed. When cutting, this moment cannot be avoided.

You need to assemble the ship when all the parts are cut out and the ends are processed. This will allow you to do assembly work without being distracted by cutting out missing parts.

Common tweaks for all materials

What is the color of the sails?

People who have seen sailing ships only in the form of souvenirs and pictures will be surprised at the topic of this article. How so, they will say? The sails are white, well, or red as in " Scarlet sails"Alexander Green. And in fact, almost every nation that built sailing ships had sails quite different in color. And because of this, disputes about the "correct" color of the sails do not stop among ship modelers.

Manufacturing of hulls for sailing ships.

The construction of the hull of a sailing ship is significantly different from the construction of its model. For example, on the model, they do not make double (inner and outer) skin, do not put all the frames, of which there are a lot, all decks are not satisfied, etc.
Therefore, there is no need to similarly consider the structure of the hull of a real ship, first of all, you need to dwell on those parts of the ship's hull that the modeler is trying to make.

Manufacturing of rope coils for models.

The sails are controlled by ropes and cables. And the ends of these ropes are collected in bays, so as not to interfere, and are hung on the dowels.
This article describes one of the ways of making rope coils for hanging on the model pins.

Theory and workshop.

A series of lectures by the recognized master of modeling Boris Volkonsky.
In his lectures, the author gives a theoretical basis for ship modeling, shares many secrets and best practices in ship modeling, talks about the tools used and brings to your attention much more.

Rigging and rigging of a sailing ship.

The article describes in detail the spars and rigging of sailing ships of the 17th-19th centuries. The main proportions of the mast trees of battleships are given. It also tells about the device, the order of overlapping, the places of pulling and the thicknesses of the hemp standing rigging. The purpose and wiring of the running rigging has been thoroughly reviewed.

Sailing equipment of the ship.

The article describes the sailing equipment of ships of the 17th-19th centuries. The types of sails, their names, details and methods of attachment to the mast are considered. Methods for steering the sails are also described. One of the many ways to make model sails is described.

Calculation of the dimensions of the spars and sails.

The article provides modern classification sailing ships, short description making general arrangement drawings, spars and sails of sailing ship models, methods for determining the dimensions of a sail ship model, determining the area of ​​the sails, determining the position of masts along the length of the model, and also describes the main details of the spars and sails fastening.

Making a showcase or How to protect a model from dust.

Once I read in a chat room (speaking in Russian, chat) a discussion about protecting models from dust. Judging by the number of participants, this topic worries many. A variety of measures have been proposed, from simply using a vacuum cleaner and a brush to putting your creations in plastic bags. It seems that all this is not effective. We ourselves, only we ourselves will save our creations from dust. After all, a showcase is like a frame for a masterpiece, both emphasizes and protects, and is aesthetically beautiful in itself.

My version of the wire rope

Building models sailing ships after all, any modeler will come to the point where it becomes necessary to make quality rigging. It doesn't matter what material the model is made of, but high-quality rigging is always made of threads. You can, of course, use online stores to buy ready-made threads, or buy a ready-made cable machine there. But, personally, it was much more pleasant and interesting for me to make it myself.

Tying blocks

The other day, a person asked me to tell you how I tie the blocks. I explained to him in words, but agreed that it was better to do it in the form of a photo report (master classes are done by the masters, while I am still doing modest photo reports). Having made this photo report, I decided to publish it for everyone to see, I, of course, will not open America, professionals already know and know everything perfectly well, but perhaps it will be useful for beginners to see, someone will take something for themselves, someone then something will improve or change. One way or another, I will be glad if someone my (although, probably, not entirely mine, since I also learned everything from someone) will help someone.

Stitching drawings

This article will primarily be of interest to modelers who build their models "from scratch" according to drawings.
On the Internet, you can find many blueprints for ships (and not only), intended for building models from scratch. But very often the drawings are either broken down into many more small sheets, or even collected in non-graphic formats such as DJVU or PDF. I will tell you how to convert these formats to JPG or PNG in another article. For normal work with them, of course, you can print each sheet and glue it with pens, but sometimes you need to have a whole drawing in a graphic file format. Here's how to glue the parts into one whole, and I'll tell you.

Modeling nodes

I'm almost sure that many, starting to engage in modeling, knew a couple of nodes and were not aware of the variety of nodes that exists. I myself have discovered many nodes for the most different conditions and places of use. It is about the nodes that will be discussed in this article. I will list those nodes that I use or plan to use in the manufacture of models.

Feng Shui sailboat

It is interesting!

What associations do you have with a sailing ship sailing on a serene sea? Most of us will say: romance, freedom, independence, adventure, striving for something new, unknown, expectation of something beautiful.

Feng Shui ship or sailboat - prosperity,
floating to your house

It is interesting!

It is not hard to guess why the ship in feng shui theory refers to the symbols of abundance and prosperity. After all, since ancient times, any arrival of a ship at the port has been associated with the arrival of goods, luxury goods and overseas curiosities. This is how the ship came to feng shui and got its main purpose - to increase the well-being and material wealth of the family. But, like every talisman in feng shui, the ship has its own maritime rules and customs, which must always be adhered to so that the peacemaking "golden sails" do not turn into a pirate ship.

Probably, each of us in childhood read books about pirates. These were sea robbers who roamed the seas and oceans, attacked merchant ships, and released all the booty in port taverns. These books were filled with intrigue, a special romanticism and a sense of adventure. For some people interested in the topic of piracy, the childhood hobby has grown into a constant hobby, which is expressed in the manufacture of wooden models of sailing ships. This is an extremely interesting activity, and ready-made models are an excellent element of interior decoration. For example, you can make a miniature copy of the famous pirate frigate, which sailed the famous pirate Francis Drake, who went down in history as one of the most famous corsairs of all times and peoples.

Who is Francis Drake?

In the Middle Ages, there were a huge number of pirates, however, only a few managed to preserve the memory of themselves. One of the famous corsairs was the Englishman Francis Drake, nicknamed the "Iron Pirate". He began his pirate career at a very young age as a ship's priest, after which he served as a sailor, and at the age of 16 he became a ship's captain. During his life, he visited a large number sea ​​campaigns and was able to win in no fewer battles, including with the English royal fleet, therefore, among the pirates, he was considered a very successful, experienced and formidable captain.

Under the command of Drake were several ships, among which the flagship was a galleon with three decks and five masts, which was called "Golden Hind", which means "Golden Hind". The captain chose this name personally, since the ship was so fast that it could overtake any merchant ship and hide from the pursuit of warships. It is thanks to its high speed and excellent maneuverability that the vessel gained its popularity.

A little about modeling

The creation of miniature models of ships occurs in stages. Each stage is aimed at creating individual elements of sailing ships, which are subsequently combined into a single structure. This process is very painstaking and requires from the creator not only the utmost concentration and perseverance, but also the manifestation of imagination, since very often it is necessary to change the materials used or replace them with others that are more suitable for a particular model. In addition, to make the model more realistic and copy the original as best as possible, you should be careful with the dimensions of the originals, which take a lot of time to find and transfer to the layout.

Making a wooden ship model: what is required for this?

Various techniques can be used to create models of sailing ships, however the most common is making prefabricated pieces carved out of wood. This process is quite complicated and requires a certain set of tools. In order to make a model of a ship from prefabricated parts, you will need a knife, a hammer, a chisel, a drill with a set of drills, a wooden block, a piece of thin cloth for sails, a rope, a wooden spire of the required length, wood glue, and when making large models it will be useful to stock up and a saw.

Carving a ship out of wood

At the first stage of modeling, blanks are made, from which the model will be assembled in the future. This will require a chisel and hammer to remove old bolts, as well as sandpaper or a file to make the block perfectly smooth. Next, you should clean the bark from the bar. In order for the work to go quickly, and during its execution not to get injured, it is necessary to hold it towards the plane.

When the blank for the future ship is ready, you can proceed to the next stage of modeling. On the block you need to apply a sketch with the markings of the future ship, and then cut out the ship's hull from it. It is worth noting that this will require a well-sharpened knife, the blade of which should be at an angle of 10 degrees in relation to the bar. Despite the fact that this part of the work is one of the easiest in modeling, nevertheless it is also the most responsible, since you have no room for error when doing it. Therefore, take your time to remove the wood in small layers, trying to keep the workpiece symmetrical.

Threads of the bow and sides of the ship

When the preliminary model of the ship's hull is ready, you can proceed to the jewelry part of the work. On the workpiece, you need to draw the side parts of the hull, as well as the bow and stern. This is done in the same way as described above. First, everything is drawn with a pencil, after which it is cut out with a knife. At the same time, it is necessary to try to make all the parts even and smooth so that the layout resembles the ship as closely as possible. When making the bow, one of the sides of the bar is slightly sawn off, after which it is given the shape of a saw cut.

Model preparation and rigging

The ship "Golden Hind" had three masts, so on the model you need to drill three holes for them, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the thickness of the pins. The distance between the holes must be the same and sufficient so that the block does not crack during drilling. If suddenly a crack appears, then it is better not to glue it, but to remake the model again, since the cracks will ruin the entire appearance of the ship. So that the masts stand securely and do not fall, it is better to put them on wood glue.

Set sail!

At the final stage, the sails are set. Since our galleon model has only three masts, only six sails are required - one large and one small for each of them. To make them, you will need thin fabric, from which you need to cut sails according to the specified dimensions. The sails should be trapezoidal. Before installing them on the mast, you need to make notches on the spiers, after which the sails are planted with glue. Both edges should be glued exactly in the middle of the sails. To make the process as comfortable as possible, and the result does not disappoint you, it is better to start setting the sails from the rear mast, moving gradually towards the bow.

To decorate the sail, you can use a flag or an upper sail, which is called a flying sail. Everything is clear with the flag and no one will have any problems with its production, so there is no point in describing the process of its sewing. But the flying sail deserves special attention. To make it, you need to cut out a rhombus from the fabric, in its shape resembling a kite. Next, two perpendicular threads are glued to the part, which connect the opposite corners of the decorative element, and a thread is attached to one of the corners, with the help of which the flying sail is fixed on the reverse side of the main sail. It is worth noting that the flying sail can be made both for the stern mast and for all the others. It all depends on your wishes and perseverance.

When the ship model is complete, it can be painted in Brown color and open it with varnish, after which it can be at least used to decorate the interior, at least launched.

Frigate Scarlet Sails

Step-by-step instruction

making

CHINESE JONK

CHINESE JONK
So we got to the most important part of the site.
I will give you approximate dimensions,
since I did the ship by eye and did not pay much attention to the dimensions. I didn't write them down exactly, but there are some. I will not torment you with nautical terms, because I myself am not strong in them, but I will write in a public language. Well, you know the basic terms, such as deck, mast, yard, keel. Here we will begin our work with the keel. But first, we will do some preparatory work. We take a sheet of veneer, put it on some kind of plywood or board, and smear it well with glue. We fix it with buttons so that the sheet does not curl up when it dries. We proceed to the keel, length 45 cm
the height of the front part is 12 cm, the back is 8 cm. If the dimensions in height are more than anything terrible, the excess can always be cut off. After the keel has been cut out, we will sand it a little. Remove the gloss, and if there is a texture coating, remove it completely.
Spread on one side with glue and leave to dry. You can spread on two, whichever is more convenient for you. While everything is drying, we mark the edges of the ship. We make one blank template. The width of the rib is 16 cm, the height is 6 cm. The depth of the slot for inserting the keel is 1.5 - 2 cm. The width of the slot is equal to the thickness of the veneered keel. Next, we proceed to veneering the keel. Who doesn't know how it's done
I'm telling you. Veneer mode on strips slightly larger than the keel width. We turn on the iron at full power but so that the veneer does not burn during veneering. We put the veneer on the keel and iron it with an iron until it is completely glued. We cut off the excess veneer and clean it with sandpaper stuffed onto a block.
After the keel has been veneered, we will make the deck and we will make the rest of the ribs of the ship. The length of the deck is 45 cm, the width is 16 cm. We measure 15 cm on one side, this will be the beginning of the curvature of the bow. We measure 11 cm from the back, this will also be the beginning of the rounding. The width of the rear part of the deck is 4.5 cm. Photo 5 shows the deck. Now we start to mess with the rest of the ribs. Since our keel is curved with inside the height of the ribs in relation to the inner part of the keel to the deck will naturally also change. I will try to explain how best to do this. Myself
I understood only when I made the fifth ship. And so let's get started. We put the keel on a piece of fiberboard as shown in photo 1. From the front, mark 8 cm also from the back. And we draw stripes on the keel. It should look something like this,
the back side is 8 cm, the front side is 5 cm. On the front part of the keel we make a step for supporting the deck (photo 5). Next, we try on the deck, cut off the excess, and turn it over to the top with the keel. Find the lowest point between the keel and deck and place the first rib. Immediately make marks on the keel and on the deck where you place the ribs. We make the next edge. It will be positioned at the start of the curved front of the deck.
The width of the rib is 16 cm. We measure the height from deck to keel, taking into account the slot. Example. The width of the rib is 14 cm. The height from the inside of the keel to the deck is 3 cm + the depth of the slot is 2 cm and that is 5 cm. Next, we take the first blank-template. We lay on the rectangle of the future edge, combining the upper part and the upper right corner. We outline along the contour. We do the same with the left corner. The height of the workpiece will change but the basic configuration of the rib
will remain. We also make the back part and one rib between them. After that we make the ribs of the bow of the model. The approximate distance between the ribs is 3 cm. The same is from the back. After the ribs are ready and adjusted, we glue them, let them fix and glue the deck.
When all this is done, we make inserts between the edges along the entire perimeter. Next, we clean everything and make bevels on the ribs from the bow and rear of the ship. After that, cut a piece from the veneer sheet to the size of the central part of the ship, coat it with glue, let it dry a little and glue it with an iron. We begin the most laborious work - we will fan the bottom of the ship in strips. I have them
width equal to 6 mm. We take the prepared veneer sheet and cut it. After the strips have been cut, it is necessary to process the edges, clean out burrs and small irregularities. Glue stripes in the central part
ship one to one to the bow and overlap to the rear of the ship. Pre-smear with fresh glue at the bonding site. Here's what we got. Now we will clean everything up and start making additional decks. The front part of the deck starts from the beginning of the rounding and protrudes by 3 cm. The width of the bow part is 9 cm. The width of the part from the rounding is 16.6 cm. After gluing, it will be processed, rounded and will be equal to the width of the main deck.
The rear part also starts from the rounding, it is leveled 16.6 cm, protrudes by 4 cm. The width of the rear part is 9.5 cm.
We glue the front part of the deck first. Then we fan it. After that, we will veneer the main deck until the start of the rounding and installation of the rear part of the additional deck. Next, glue the back part. It does not need to be veneered as it is covered by deck superstructures. The decks were glued, rounded off and we proceed to making the sides of the rear of the model. We cut off two strips 4 cm wide. You will determine the length yourself. Start from the rounding point. The rear of the side has a deployed
an angle of 105 degrees. After the strips have been cut out, we make cuts on them in the place where they will be
bend along the contour of the deck and smear with glue. The glue has dried and begin to veneer. Cut off two veneer strips in width and glue them with an iron, while bending them along the contour of the deck. The side boards were made, but since they should be deployed, we carefully grind them at an angle, trying them on to the deck. Then we glue them. It will not be difficult for you to make the rear part of the side. Next, go to
deck superstructure rear of the model. The photo shows how it looks. The superstructure deck configuration must be solid. A small explanation for the photo. Side
the platforms should be 1.5 cm longer towards the back of the model. After the deck is done, we make an insert with windows and other inserts in the openings for the stairs. When we have all the inserts ready and fitted, we glue them to the deck and then glue the deck itself. The deck was glued and then we fan it. Next, we make the next sides of the deck superstructure and an insert with windows. The rear of the sides will no longer be deployed, but at a right angle. After the last deck is made, glued and veneered, we do
trailing boards. With the rear deck superstructure finished, go to the bow of the model. We also make the front sides with
an extended angle of 115 degrees. They also start from the beginning of the additional deck. The boards were installed and glued. We proceed to making an insert with windows and an upper platform. The dimensions of the upper platform. Length 15 cm, (excluding the balcony) width of the front part is 12 cm. It protrudes by 6 cm. The rear part of the platform is slightly wider than the sides by about 7-8 mm on each side. After we have made a platform and an insert with windows, we glue them. Then we will fan the site. Next, we make the sides of the central part of the model. Cut off 2 strips, fan them from the inside, mark
cannon ports and cut through them. The port size is 1.5 cm by 1.5 cm. The gap between the ports is also 1.5 cm. The ports are 5-6 mm higher than the deck level.
With the sides finished, we proceed to veneering the outer part of the ship. After veneering the ship, we make ladders. With the ladders finished, go to the railing. Strip mode with a width of 4 mm. We veneer them on three sides, glue them stepping back from the edge of 1 mm, sawing them down. Next, we mark them and drill holes for installing pilasters under the railings themselves. After that, we make the railing ourselves. The same strip mode but we will only fan the edges. A little trick. The photo shows that the corner pilasters are slightly taller than the others. This is to make it easier to mark up.
Drilled a hole, tried it on on the pilaster, marked the rest of the points for the pilasters. After all the railings have been installed. Cut off the excess, clean and
fanning. We do the same in the bow of the ship. Next, we veneer the edges of the sides of the ship and clean the entire ship. Moving on to marking and installing masts. The length of the masts is at your discretion. The diameter of the mast at the bottom is 10-12 mm. At the top 4-5 mm. So that you can drill a hole for installing a flagpole from a toothpick. The ship is completely ready and we are starting to stain it. We fix those parts that you see fit. We finished with the stain. We make 2 additional fastenings for the ropes (photo 24) and two blocks for raising the sails (photo 25). All that remains is to varnish the model, make the sails, and then set them up. For the sails, we need material, a sheet of whatman paper for the pattern, wooden round skewers and the nearest workshop for sewing and repairing clothes. I hope you can handle the fabrication and installation of the sails.

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