Prefabricated models of ships made of wood with their own hands. Description of work, drawings

Try to cut out such a ship. Such a craft will surely appeal to your loved ones by placing it in a conspicuous place, for example, on a shelf. To make this craft, you will need the following:

Sawing tools.

First of all, you need to prepare your table on which you will work. It should not have unnecessary things and every tool should be at hand. Not everyone has their own desktop and probably already thought about creating it. Making a table is not difficult - it is difficult to choose a place for it in the house. The ideal option is a warmed balcony, where you can do crafts at any time. I already wrote about table preparation in a separate article and tried to describe the whole process of its creation in as much detail as possible. If you don't know how to prepare your workplace then read the following article. After you have completed the process of creating a table, try to start choosing your future craft.

Choosing quality material

The main material is plywood. Her choice is always difficult. Each of us must have faced such a problem as delamination of plywood from the end part and asked such a question, why such delamination? Well, it's mostly due to low-quality plywood. If you took the jigsaw in your hands not for the first time, then you can pick up plywood from the remnants of the previous craft. If you are new to sawing and you do not have plywood, then buy it at a hardware store. Choosing material for sawing is always difficult. You should always choose plywood carefully, more often look at the defects of the tree (knots, cracks) and draw conclusions. The complexity of choosing plywood lies in the fact that no matter how you miscalculate its flaws and shelf life. For example, you bought plywood, cleaned it, translated the drawing, and suddenly it began to delaminate. Of course, this happened to almost everyone and it is oh so unpleasant. So it is better to pay attention when choosing and choose good plywood. I wrote a special Article, which describes step by step all the principles of choosing plywood.

Stripping plywood

We clean our plywood with sandpaper. As you already know, “Medium-grained” and “Fine-grained” skins are used to clean plywood in sawing. In construction stores, you probably saw skins (sandpaper in a different way), and they are what we need. In the work you will need "Coarse-grained", "Medium-grained" and "Fine-grained" skin. Each of them has its own property, but a completely different coating, in which it is classified. “Coarse-grained” skin is used for processing rough plywood, i.e. which has many defects, chips, as well as cracks.
"Medium-grained" skin is used for processing plywood after "Large" skins and has a slight coating. "Fine-grained" or otherwise "Nulevka". Such sandpaper serves as the final process of stripping plywood. It gives plywood smoothness, and therefore plywood will be pleasant to the touch. Sand the prepared plywood in stages, starting with medium-grained and ending with fine emery. Grind along the layers, not across. A well sanded surface should be even, perfectly smooth, glossy in the light and silky to the touch. How best to prepare plywood for sawing and which sandpaper is better to choose Read here. After stripping, check the plywood for burrs and small bumps. If there are no visible defects, then you can proceed to the process of translating the drawing.

Drawing Translation

For me, the translation of a drawing has always been the main process in my work. I will tell you a couple of rules, as well as tips for high-quality translation of the drawing. Many transfer the drawing to plywood not only with a pencil and copy, but also with the help of the Black Tape, glue the drawing with plywood, then wash off the drawing with water and the drawing markings remain on the plywood. In general, there are many ways, but I will talk about the most common method. To transfer the drawing to the prepared plywood, you must use a copy, a ruler, a sharp pencil and a non-writing pen. Fix the drawing in plywood with buttons or just hold it with your left hand. Check if the drawing fits the dimensions. Arrange the drawing of the clock so that the plywood sheet is used as economically as possible. Translate the drawing with a non-writing pen and ruler. You should not rush, because your future craft depends on the drawing.

Drilling holes in pieces

As you have already noticed, there are parts of the grooves in the details that need to be cut from the inside. To cut out such details, it is necessary to drill holes in them using a hand drill or, as in the old fashioned way, make holes with an awl. By the way, the diameter of the hole must be at least 1 mm, otherwise you can damage the elements of the drawing, which, alas, are sometimes difficult to restore. In order not to damage your desktop when drilling holes, you need to place a plank under the workpiece so as not to damage the desktop. Drilling holes alone is always difficult, so ask a friend to help you with your business.

Sawing details

There are many rules for sawing, but you need to be based on the most common ones. First of all, you need to cut out the internal parts, only then along the outer pattern. There is no need to rush when cutting. The main thing is to always keep the jigsaw straight at an angle of 90 degrees when cutting. Cut out the parts along the lines you marked exactly. The movements of the jigsaw should always be smooth up and down. Also, don't forget to watch your posture. Try to avoid bevels and bumps. If you get off the line while sawing, don't worry. Such bevels, irregularities can be removed with flat files or “Coarse-grained” sandpaper.

Relaxation

When sawing, we often get tired. Often fingers get tired as well as eyes, which are always in suspense. At work, of course, everyone gets tired. In order to reduce the load, you need to do a couple of exercises. Exercises you can see here. Do the exercises several times during the work.

Stripping Details

It is always necessary to clean the details of future crafts carefully. At the very beginning of work, you already cleaned the plywood with sandpaper. Now you have to do a small part of plywood stripping. With a “medium-grained” sandpaper, clean the edges of the parts and the back of the plywood. "Fine-grained" skin is considered the final stage of cleaning parts. Fine sandpaper is better to clean the front of the parts. When processing plywood, take your time. You can also use a rounded file, with which it is convenient to clean inner part holes. Try to get the details without burrs and bumps.

Assembly of parts

Assembling the parts of our ship here is not so difficult. In order to carry out the correct assembly of parts, you need to read the following article, which details all the details of the assembly. After the parts are assembled into one common craft without any problems, then proceed to gluing them.

We glue the details

It is necessary to glue the parts of the shelf with PVA or titan glue. You don't need to pour a lot of glue. It is better to tie the assembled craft on glue with a strong thread, tighten it and put it to dry. The craft sticks together for about 10-15 minutes.

burning crafts

To decorate our ship with a pattern (for example, along the edges of the ship), you will need an electric burner. Beautifully burn out the pattern can be very difficult. To burn out patterns, you must first draw a pattern with a pencil. You can read how to work with an electric burner and add patterns to a shelf here.

DIY varnishing

At will, our ship can be transformed by coating it with varnish “On wood”, preferably colorless. Read how best to Varnish crafts. Try to choose a quality varnish. Lacquering is done with a special brush "For glue". Do not hurry. Try not to leave visible streaks and scratches on the craft.

You can create a model of an old ship yourself without buying a ready-made design for assembly. In order for the result to turn out to be of high quality, you will have to show a lot of patience and perseverance.

materials

To make a historic ship with your own hands, prepare:

• plywood or cork;
• thin strips of wood, bamboo or rattan;
• wood glue;
• paper;
• pencil.

In this model of the ship, not plywood, but cork wood was used as the basis. The choice was due to the ease of working with the material. Unlike plywood, where you need a saw for cutting, with cork everything was done with a simple sharp knife. You can also take thin strips for work from any material, they just need to bend well. Joiner's glue should not be replaced with either hot or even super glue.

Step 1. On paper, you need to draw the main details of the future ship. You can also print them if you find layouts suitable for you on the Internet. Please note that your ideas may change slightly during the course of work. This is not critical if you just want to build a ship in vintage style rather than repeat an exact copy of a particular vessel.

Step 2. For convenience, work with the ship was divided into several parts. The ship itself was also assembled. Most of the time was taken by the manufacture of the central part of the ship. Then the front, back and deck parts with the mast were made.

Step 3. First of all, according to the already existing sketches, make the skeleton of the ship. Be sure to make sure that all of its edges are symmetrical. If there is a slight deviation somewhere, correct these flaws. Check that the ribs are exactly at an angle of 90 degrees when attaching.

Step 4. After the skeleton is ready, start decorating its side parts. To do this, glue a long rail along the center line of the side part. Focus on it further when you glue the rest. Reiki is better to stick in stages to make your work easier. Apply enough glue, but make sure that it does not flow down the slats. Fasten the rails additionally with clamps, leaving them in this form until the glue dries completely. After the glue has dried, remove the clamps and continue gluing the rails in the next section.

Step 5. All places where gaps form between the rails, work with epoxy. All the details of the ship, as soon as you are ready, cover with varnish for wood.

Step 6. After the main work, proceed to the finish. You can hide all possible aesthetic flaws at this stage. To do this, carefully glue the rails over the places with obvious defects to hide them. From rattan, you can make a horizontal line that emphasizes the smooth forms of the ship. The base of the ship is ready.

Step 7. Masts must be made from wooden rods and small flat pieces of wood. There will be two masts in the ship. Adjust the rods in advance to the calculated dimensions. To attach the masts, cut out two pieces of wood measuring 4 x 2 cm. Drill holes in them for the mast rods. From small rods, make a reinforcing lattice and assemble the entire structure completely.

Step 8. Make a template for the deck of a ship out of paper and build a deck part from wooden strips based on it. After letting it dry thoroughly, drill holes for attaching the masts. Insert and glue the masts. From plywood, make the side rails of the ship.

Step 9. Glue the wooden strips on the front and back of the ship in the same way. They need to be glued on the side and in the deck part, and rods and handrails should be made from pieces of plywood. All parts are fastened with carpentry glue. Do not forget to raise the back of the ship with steps.

In modeling, plywood is the most popular material. This is due to high quality indicators, as well as ease of operation. Plywood sheets are very easy to cut, quite simply processed. Using a suitable scheme (drawing), you can make ships out of plywood with your own hands.

Plywood is a versatile material that is easy to cut and process. different ways, therefore, it is with plywood patterns that it is recommended to start your acquaintance with modeling.

Building a ship on your own is quite an interesting activity. But in order to start performing complex models, you need to practice on easier ones.

Materials and tools

To create stucco patterns on board the ship, you need to prepare your own composition from which reliefs can be formed. For the solution, it is necessary to prepare the following tools and materials:

• wood dust;
• PVA glue (on average, one ship model can take about half a liter of glue);
• plasticine to create small irregularities and patterns;

Materials and tools that are used during ship modeling:

Birch plywood will ensure a minimum number of chips when sawing.

• plywood of the required thickness;
• Super glue;
• sandpaper for surface treatment;
• kapron thread;
• jigsaw for cutting parts;
• construction knife;
• mast wood. It is better to use pine, as it is much easier to process;
• dye;
• small brushes;
• Chinese sticks;
• fabric for sails;
• a thread;
• pencil ruler.

Modeling wood should be soft, not fibrous. The most popular option is cedar, linden, walnut. Everything wooden blanks must be perfectly even, without knots and damage. It can be used as an additional element to create decorative pieces. Also, wood can be used to create the main elements of the model, such as the deck, hull.

Plywood in modeling is the most demanded material. In such a direction as modeling, birch or balsa plywood is most often used. This is due to the fact that these types of wood practically do not give chips during sawing. To make a boat out of plywood, you need to use sheets with a thickness of 0.8-2 mm.

A simple diagram of a plywood ship model.

Veneer is a sheet material, very thin, made of precious wood. In most cases, veneer is used as a facing material. They paste over products that are made of inexpensive material.

Fasteners will perform not only the main task of fastening parts, but also perform a decorative role. To create a boat model, you need to prepare thin chains (several sizes can be used), laces, threads, copper or brass studs. In order to transfer the drawing from sheet to plywood, it is best to use tracing paper and a pencil. So the drawing will turn out detailed. Glue must be used to fasten the plywood parts. Fine detailing can be made by metal casting, using polymer clay, or independently preparing a solution from wood dust and PVA glue. After complete drying, such a mass is very durable, and it can be painted in the desired color.

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Preparatory work

If you are modeling a plywood ship for the first time, it is recommended to purchase kits in which all the details are already cut and processed. But its cost can sometimes be quite high. Therefore, with great desire and diligence, experience can be gained in the process of assembling your ship. Modeling, like any other type of work, necessarily begins with the preparatory stage. The first thing to start with is what kind of ship will be modeled. To begin with, it is worth looking at various drawings and finished works, this will greatly facilitate the choice of model.

Having studied the drawing completely, it is worth checking the presence of all necessary materials and tools to get the job done. Modeling ships is a jewelry business. It takes a lot of time and perseverance.

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to make paper or cardboard templates for all the details. After that, they are all transferred to plywood. On this preparatory stage work can be considered completed.

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Parts manufacturing

In order to make all the details, cut them out of plywood sheet, you must use the appropriate tool. For work, you can use manual jigsaw, but if possible, it is better to use an electric model option. Using the second option will significantly reduce the time to manufacture all the elements. This is especially true for the smallest details.

Sawn blanks are processed with a file, removing chips and burrs.

In order to cut the part, a hole is made in the plywood into which the jigsaw file is located. It is worth cutting out all the details very carefully, while observing all the contour boundaries, since inaccurately cut details can then ruin appearance the entire ship. Each sawn workpiece must be processed with a file from the ends. In the process of such cleaning, it is necessary to remove a small part of the chamfer where chips and burrs have formed. When cutting, this moment cannot be avoided.

It is necessary to assemble the ship when all the details are cut out and the ends are processed. This will allow you to do assembly work without being distracted by cutting out the missing parts.

Making models of ships is the oldest of man's "technical hobbies": for almost six thousand years, people have been perpetuating their ships in miniature. The oldest of the models found during excavations - a ritual silver boat with oars from a tomb in Mesopotamia - archaeologists attribute to the beginning of the fourth millennium BC.

Russian professional ship modeling is much younger, but it has already equaled three centuries. The manufacture of ship models began with the Petrovsky "model-chamber", in which the "Admiralty" models of all new ships under construction were stored. These were exact detailed copies of the hull design with partially removed skin, serving as visual aids for ship carpenters who were poorly versed in the drawings.

In fact, Peter I himself was the first serious Russian modeller. At the age of seventeen, returning from the "Great Embassy" in Europe, he built such a model of a frigate. By Peter's decree, all models were kept as samples for posterity. From the collection of this very "chamber", located on the site of the current fountain in front of the Admiralty, at one time the collection of our Naval Museum began.

Probably, many, and even more so those living in St. Petersburg, with its history and traditions, at least once, but there was a desire to build a model of some kind of sailing ship with their own hands. However, without the necessary skills and tools, this can hardly be done at home, guided by special literature and ship modeling sites. The technologies described there are often quite complex, require special equipment, materials, and almost always presuppose the presence of a certain experience, so making a ship is not an easy task. As a result, for someone whose skills are limited to school labor lessons and folding paper boats, the difficulties that arise during work will rather discourage desire than form interest. It can be hard to come up with guidelines that will help you create something significant by starting from scratch. But still, if desired, it is quite possible to build a fairly decent model, having the simplest tools available in any home where there is a man "with hands", and a minimum set of material. You just need to initially set yourself up for the fact that everything will work out, definitely (!), But almost never - right away. That a failed operation, screwing up a part (it’s good if there’s only one!) Is the norm, the necessary experience gained, and not an emergency at all.
Serious professional modelers, whose work, sometimes worth tens of thousands of dollars, take first place at international exhibitions, as a rule, have a rather skeptical attitude towards models made of papier-mâché. It is understandable - paper, even well glued, will still remain paper. But for someone who is trying their hand at modeling for the first time, this technique will be the most preferable. It does not require any expensive materials or tools, and as a workplace it allows you to limit yourself to a simple table with a piece of plywood placed on it and a grate for the bathroom, so as not to dust in the room. It's great if there is an electric drill with a tripod that can be installed on fresh air. But if not, then the above conditions will allow you to start, and most importantly, finish your first model. All the models presented in these photographs - from the Roman galley to the armored cruiser - were built using this technology and under such conditions. Fifteen years ago, after an injury, suddenly finding himself isolated from environment, I had to remember my childhood hobby and try to turn it into a profession. After re-reading a fair amount of literature, I realized that none of the techniques given there in their pure form suits me. As a result of many trials and experiments over the years, a technology has developed that allows you to work independently of any external circumstances. However, with all the accessibility of the method, it still does not hurt to get something before starting work. The most important thing, of course, is what and how it will all be built. So, what is needed in order to make a ship out of wood:1.1

MATERIALS

array- i.e. ordinary wood, necessary primarily for the manufacture of spars. For mast columns, pine slats of the appropriate section are best suited. Birch is worse: it is more difficult to choose even segments from it and more difficult to process. The thinner parts of the masts - topmasts and flagpoles, yards, the rest of the spars are perfectly obtained from birch skewers for barbecue, which can sometimes be bought in various super-hyper-markets. It is worth paying attention to the fact that they come in different thicknesses: there were 3.5 and 3 and 1.8 mm. For the smallest details, it is good to use wooden toothpicks. Other wooden parts; in theory, and in theory, made from solid wood, it is easier and better to get from veneer of the corresponding species glued together by "Moment" in 2-3 layers.

Glue. Optimal - furniture PVA. Proven - Novgorod PVA-M "Akron". If you don't have one, another will do. The main thing is that the appointment should indicate "for gluing" wood products, and not "for gluing" - this one holds much worse. When buying, ask to try - glue, squeezing with a clothespin, two pieces of veneer, wait 30 minutes until it dries and try to tear it apart. If the glue is good, the veneer will break, but not the glue. In addition, apply a smear on the surface - a matte, but absolutely uniform, transparent, without a milky tint, film should form. Estonian PVA is good, but sometimes it does not stick to our dried-up one, it falls off. Those. having started working with one, it is better to continue with it. And, of course, the ordinary "Moment" is also indispensable.
Varnishes, paints. Lacquer is best suited "Aqua" - ie. water based. Dries quickly, does not leave stains on paper and cardboard. And, which is essential when working in an apartment, it practically does not smell. It makes sense to purchase both colorless and tinted under dark wood at once. Paints - after trying several options, I settled on acrylics. Of these, the most necessary is gold. Proven - "Inca Gold". Where possible, it is easier to stick the colored paper mentioned above instead of staining. In general, in the traditions of the Russian model school, coloring of models was not very common. Unlike Europe, where they strived for 100% similarity with the original even in shades, in Russia they tried to select valuable wood species so that their color, if not exactly, approximately, would correspond to the color of the painted original.

Fabric and thread. Any white cotton fabric is suitable for sails. Naturally, the thinner the thread and the denser the weave, the better. The main thing is that there should be no admixture of synthetics, otherwise it will not stick well. The same applies to threads. Pure cotton, however, is now difficult to find, but if the percentage of synthetics is small, then you can try them. For standing rigging, black threads are needed, for running rigging, light beige is better. In terms of thickness, all possible numbers will come in handy: from the maximum - 10 or even 0, if you can find it, up to 40 - 50. In the literature, it is sometimes recommended to tint the fabric with a weak solution of tea for reliability. I tried it - I didn't like it: it may be more reliable, but pure white sails look much nicer. But the threads, if the desired color is not found, it is better to slightly tint with wood stain.

Wire and foil- preferably copper or brass, but any will do, even from tubes. Small carnations, plasticine, self-adhesive film, etc. - far from an exhaustive list, new ideas can come to mind at any time during the entire work.

TOOLS

In addition to the standard set of tools that do not need commentary, such as a planer, pliers, wire cutters, a screwdriver, clamps in pairs - bigger and smaller, a hammer, a hacksaw, chisels, etc., there are several specific things that should be mentioned separately .Electric drill. If you have an idea to get down to business seriously, not limited to one trial copy, you should definitely get a drill. It is advisable to choose more powerful - 500 watts, no less. Very good if with a tripod and with adjustable speed. Extremely useful thing- grinding disc. Those. not a grinder (it won’t hurt either), but a grinding one - on the plane of which you can fix the skin. Saws. A jigsaw is a useful, although not essential thing. A hacksaw will come in handy sooner (albeit for working with wood). It is good to have two canvases for it: small and large. Files. four or five pieces different shapes and notches are worth having, but, from my own experience, they are the main and almost irreplaceable - flat, small, the largest you can find. It's also nice to have a set of needle files. Knives. He made his most beloved and necessary knife (pictured) 25 years ago from canvas for metal. There are no such things on sale. Without it, there is no work - only they can cut veneer into strips with high quality. It was five centimeters longer (!) - it was worn off ... So, if you do the same, then with a margin in length. When choosing a canvas for the blade, try to bend it: if it remains bent, it is too soft. If it breaks, it will fit. From the wreckage and make. Take the blade longer: so that it passes almost through the entire handle. The rounding at the end of the handle is also not accidental: it is convenient for them to grind the parts that are glued (especially on the "Moment"), and simply smooth out the bumps.
Pay attention to sharpening - it is one-sided, while the right side of the blade is ground off - that is, if you cut it along the ruler, leading like a pencil, then the flat side is pressed against the ruler, and the ground off chamfer is turned away from the ruler. Blade angle - about 30, sharpening - 15-20. From the same canvas it is worth making small thin incisors, such as chisels, of different widths: 4, 6, 8, 12 mm - although not immediately, but gradually everything will come in handy somewhere. You can find on sale sets for woodcarving with semicircular incisors. They, too, sooner or later, but they will definitely be needed. Shilo. Ordinary shoe. But you will have to do one more thing yourself - from a long thin nail or from a thick sewing needle (conveniently from a machine) on a long (15-20 cm) handle. Well, since we are talking here, a set of sewing needles of different sizes will also be needed. Brushes. It is worth starting a dozen and a half at once - of all sizes: from 2 to 20 mm, of different stiffness for different needs. Sometimes, instead of a glue brush for small jobs, it is convenient to use a thin wire tied to a stick.
Scissors. It is worth having at least two, and preferably three pairs: separately for fabric, for foil, and for paper, veneer and cardboard. Grinding skin. A minimum of three numbers are required: from the largest for leveling the body workpiece for veneering to the smallest for grinding for finishing. Well, the middle one is for intermediate work. whetstones for incisors - it is worth getting three pieces, including the smallest donkey for final fine-tuning.
Little things - necessary, and just easy to use: drawing accessories, large tweezers, small pliers with long thin jaws, clothespins, rubber bands "for money", a crochet hook, table vise, transparent plexiglass ruler 50 cm long, indelible black and brown markers, wood stain. But you never know what else can come up with a creative approach to business!
And go ahead. So, having acquired all of the above, or being sure that you will get what you need at the right time, you can, inspired, proceed! Where to get drawings, I will not advise - there is a lot of literature, the Internet is huge and dynamic - sites are born and die. And I myself Lately I was not interested in this direction ... In any case, since you got here, you can get to the drawings. Study several projects of different ships, comparing their designs, details. Often the details missing in one kit are perfectly presented in another - for a similar ship of the same class, and vice versa. It is worth reading their stories. It's good when the debut is not the first thing that catches your eye, but the fact that as a result of the selection you like more than anyone else - it will be much more interesting to work. Such a model is much more likely to be finished - it's a pity to leave it unfinished ... Well, let's start, of course, with the body.
Author - Dmitry Kopilov
Site Exclusive

Frigate Scarlet Sails

Step-by-step instruction

manufacturing

CHINESE JUNK

CHINESE JUNK
So we got to the most important part of the site.
I will give you approximate sizes.
since I made the ship by eye and did not pay much attention to the size. I didn't write them down exactly, but there are some. I will not torment you with marine terms, because I myself am not strong in them, but I will write in a generally accessible language. Well, you know the basic terms. Such as deck, mast, yardarm, keel. Here we will begin our work from the keel. But first we will do some preparatory work. We take a sheet of veneer and lay it on some kind of plywood or board, and smear it well with glue. We fix with buttons so that the sheet does not curl up when it dries. Getting to the keel, length 45 cm
the height of the front part is 12 cm, the back is 8 cm. If the dimensions in height are more than anything terrible, you can always cut off the excess. After the keel has been cut out, we will process it with sandpaper a little. We will remove the gloss, and if there is a texture coating, then we will remove it completely.
Spread glue on one side and leave to dry. You can spread with two, whichever is more convenient for you. While everything is drying, we are marking the edges of the ship. We make one blank template. The width of the rib is 16 cm, the height is 6 cm. The depth of the slot for inserting the keel is 1.5 - 2 cm. The width of the slot is equal to the thickness of the veneered keel. Next, we proceed to the veneer of the keel. Who doesn't know how it's done
I tell. The veneer is cut into strips slightly larger than the width of the keel. We turn on the iron at full power, but so that the veneer does not burn during veneering. We put the veneer on the keel and smooth it with an iron until it is completely glued. We cut off the excess veneer and clean it with sandpaper stuffed on a bar.
After the keel has been veneered, we will make the deck and we will make the rest of the ship's ribs. The length of the deck is 45 cm, the width is 16 cm. We measure 15 cm on one side, this will be the beginning of the rounding of the bow. We measure 11 cm from the back, this will also be the beginning of the rounding. The width of the back of the deck is 4.5 cm. Photo 5 shows the deck. Now we begin to trouble with the rest of the ribs. Since our keel is curved on the inside, the height of the ribs will naturally change in relation to the inside of the keel to the deck. I'll try to explain the best way to do it. Myself
I understood only when I made the fifth ship. And so let's get started. We lay the keel on a piece of fiberboard as shown in photo 1. We mark 8 cm from the front as well as from the back. And we draw stripes on the keel. It should go something like this
rear side 8 cm, front 5 cm. On the front of the keel we make a step to stop the deck (photo 5). Next, try on the deck, cut off the excess, and turn the keel to the top. We find the lowest point between the keel and the deck and set the first rib. Immediately make marks on the keel and on the deck where you install the ribs. We make the next edge. It will be installed at the beginning of the rounding of the front of the deck.
The width of the rib is 16 cm. We measure the height from the deck to the keel, taking into account the slot. Example. The width of the rib is 14 cm. The height from the inside of the keel to the deck is 3 cm + the depth of the slot is 2 cm and that is 5 cm. Next, we take the first template blank. We lay on the rectangle of the future edge, combining the upper part and the upper right corner. We outline along the contour. We do the same with the left corner. The workpiece height will change but the main configuration of the rib
will remain. We also do the back part and one edge between them. After that, we make the ribs of the bow of the model. The approximate distance between the ribs is 3 cm. The same is true from the back. After the ribs are ready and fitted, we glue them, let them fix and glue the deck.
When all this is done, we make inserts between the ribs around the entire perimeter. Next, we clean everything and make bevels on the ribs from the bow and rear of the ship. After that, we cut off a piece from the veneer sheet according to the size of the central part of the ship, coat it with glue, let it dry a little and glue it with an iron. We proceed to the most time-consuming work, veneer the bottom of the ship with stripes. I have them
the width is 6 mm. We take the prepared sheet of veneer and cut it. After the strips have been cut, it is necessary to process the edges, clean out the burrs and small irregularities. Glue stripes in the central part
ship one to one to the bow and to the back of the ship with an overlap. Preliminary prayers with fresh glue of the place of gluing. Here's what we got. Now we will clean everything up and proceed to the manufacture of additional decks. The front part of the deck starts from the beginning of the rounding and protrudes by 3 cm. The width of the bow is 9 cm. The width of the part from the rounding is 16.6 cm. After gluing, it will be processed, rounded and will be equal to the width of the main deck.
The back part also starts from the rounding, it is equal to 16.6 cm, protrudes by 4 cm. The width of the back part is 9.5 cm. The additional decks are now glued in the current order (you can also glue them with an iron).
We glue the front of the deck first. Then we fan it. After that, we veneer the main deck before rounding and installing the back of the additional deck. Next, glue the back. It can not be veneered as it is covered with deck superstructures. The decks are glued, rounded off and we proceed to the manufacture of the sides of the rear of the model. We cut off two strips 4 cm wide. You will determine the length yourself. Starting from the point of curvature. The back of the board has a deployed
angle 105 degrees. After the strips are cut out, we make cuts on them in the place where they will be
bend along the contour of the deck and smear with glue. The glue has dried, we begin to veneer. We cut two strips of veneer in width and glue them with an iron, while bending them along the contour of the deck. The side boards are done, but since they need to be deployed, we carefully grind them at an angle, trying them on to the deck. Then we glue them. Making the back of the board will not be difficult for you. Next, we move on to
deck superstructure at the rear of the model. The photo shows how it looks. The superstructure deck configuration must be integral. A little explanation for the photo. Side
the pads should be 1.5 cm longer towards the back of the model. After we made the deck, we make an insert with windows and other inserts in the openings for the stairs. When we have all the inserts ready and fitted, we glue them to the deck and then glue the deck itself. The deck was glued and after that we veneer it. Next, we make the following sides of the deck superstructure and an insert with windows. The back of the sides will no longer be deployed, but at a right angle. After the last deck was made, glued and veneered, we make
final boards. With the rear deck superstructure finished, we move on to the bow of the model. We also do the front sides with
angle of 115 degrees. They also start from the beginning of the additional deck. The boards were installed and glued. We proceed to the manufacture of an insert with windows and an upper platform. Top platform dimensions. Length 15 cm, (excluding the balcony) the width of the front part is 12 cm. It protrudes 6 cm. The back part of the platform is slightly wider than the sides by about 7-8 mm on each side. After we made a platform and an insert with windows, we glue them. Then we veneer the site. Next, we make the sides of the central part of the model. Cut off 2 strips, veneer them on the inside, mark
cannon ports and cut through them. The port size is 1.5 cm by 1.5 cm. The gap between the ports is also 1.5 cm. The ports are 5-6 mm above the deck level.
With the sides finished, we proceed to veneer the outer part of the ship. After veneering the ship, we make ladders. With the ladders finished, we move on to the railing. Strip mode 4 mm wide. We veneer them from three sides, glue them 1 mm away from the edge, sawing them down. Next, we mark them out and drill holes for installing pilasters under the railings themselves. After that, we make the railing ourselves. The same strip mode but only the edges are veneered. A little trick. The photo shows that the corner pilasters are slightly higher than the rest. This is to make marking easier.
They drilled a hole, tried it on a pilaster, marked the rest of the points for the pilasters. Once all railings are in place. Cut off the excess, clean and
veneer. We do the same in the bow of the ship. Next, we veneere the edges of the sides of the ship and clean the entire ship. We proceed to the marking and installation of masts. The length of the masts is up to you. The diameter of the mast at the bottom is 10-12 mm. At the top 4-5 mm. To be able to drill a hole for installing a flagpole from a toothpick. The ship is completely ready and we proceed to its staining. We fix those parts that you consider necessary. Finished with the stain. We make 2 additional fastenings for ropes (photo 24) and two blocks for raising the sails (photo 25). It remains to varnish the model, make the sails, and then install them. For sails, we need material, a piece of drawing paper for a pattern, wooden round skewers and the nearest workshop for tailoring and repairing clothes. I hope you cope with the manufacture and installation of sails.