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To grow a beautiful lawn, it is not enough to learn how to care for it. This knowledge will come in handy when an English parterre or golf course is already available. In the meantime, when you have a bare patch of land in front of you, you need to think about how to properly plant lawn grass. The decorative qualities and vitality of the future lawn will depend on this. It is imperative to understand the main points of this process. Let's do it right now.

To create a decorative lawn, it will be necessary to study the technology of its creation, starting with planting lawn grasses

Let's start by choosing seeds for your lawn. There are many ready-to-use mixtures on the market for various lawns purposes. Their names usually coincide with the target orientation of the future lawn - "sports lawn", "fast lawn", "decorative lawn for shady places", etc.

When choosing a mixture for a lawn, pay attention to its species composition

Typically, consumers do not think about which lawn grass is better to plant. They are guided only by the name, without looking into the composition. They buy any "universal" lawn, and then they are surprised that in the second year the lawn is almost completely frozen or covered with ugly bald patches. This is because most manufacturers bring their trains from Western Europe or compose them according to local standards. And that is why very often the ready-made grass mixtures contain seeds of non-frost-resistant plants that are not adapted to our climate.

For example, the most famous such representative is ryegrass ... It is found in almost every ready-made mixture, and in a fairly large amount (sometimes - up to 50-60% of the total number of seeds!). For Europe, ryegrass is an excellent lawn grass. It sprouts very quickly and covers large areas, is highly decorative. The only "but": the lifespan of ryegrass, even in ideal European conditions, does not exceed 5 years. And in our country ryegrass almost completely freezes out in the first winter, leaving bald spots on the lawn.

Ryegrass is often used to create "quick" lawns, for example, before the commissioning of a commercial landscape property

For the climate of the middle lane, the best lawn grasses are red fescue and meadow bluegrass... They form a dense herbaceous cover of bright green color, have high frost resistance and durability. Fescue is more unpretentious, shade-tolerant, grows quickly. Bluegrass is gaining strength more slowly, but is more decorative than fescue. It is not for nothing that many gardeners admit that the most beautiful parterre lawn grows from meadow bluegrass, ideally when using one variety of this grass.

The bluegrass lawn is one of the most decorative. In addition, it is distinguished by its endurance and resistance to trampling.

If you find a mix of different varieties of bluegrass and fescue commercially, great. For example, Premiumline's Ideal blend contains only these herbs in a 50:50 ratio. You can buy fescue and bluegrass separately, mix and sow. It is the safest option for creating a decorative yet sustainable lawn.

You can sow seeds from May to September. The main thing is that the lawn is already strong enough before winter. And there is one point. If you decide to create a lawn in spring, then the amount of seeds for sowing can be taken a little more than indicated on the package (for different compositions, this amount can be 10-25 g / m 2). This will allow you to get a thick lawn faster. As the herbs grow, they will begin to compete with each other, and by the fall, only the strongest will survive. They will form a lawn that will survive the winter without loss and begin to spike already in early spring.

In August-September, sowing grass in excess is undesirable. Strong specimens will not have enough time to defeat weaker neighbors. Strong competition will lead to the fact that the blades of grass will go away before winter in the stage of fighting with each other, which means they will be weakened. Most likely they will not be able to survive the winter and will die.

In other words, lawn grasses will have a better chance of forming good, dense turf during spring planting.

Technology for competent lawn planting

Now that you have decided on the planting season and the type of lawn grass, let's start sowing. Let's consider step by step how to plant lawn grass in the country and how to care for seedlings to get a beautiful lawn.

Step 1. Removing weeds on the site

In the area where you plan to create a lawn, you must eliminate all weeds. For this, different methods can be used: manual removal, deep cultivation, mulching, herbicide treatment.

The most effective way is the use of herbicides. For example, spraying with Roundup helps to destroy even the smallest roots of all types of weeds. The drug penetrates into plant tissues through leaves and young shoots, then reaches the roots and kills them. Complete destruction of weeds by this method occurs 2-3 weeks after treatment. When this happens, the yellowed and dried weeds are removed, after which they proceed to the next step of soil preparation.

Roundup is a continuous action herbicide. Therefore, the destruction of weeds with this drug is carried out only before sowing the lawn.

Step # 2. Soil cultivation

The earth is dug up to the height of the blade of a shovel, the stones that come across, dried roots are selected - everything that can prevent the thin roots of the lawn grass from growing. Large clods of earth are broken up so that the soil layer is loose and homogeneous.

At the stage of digging, they try to level the surface of the site so that there are no bumps and holes left on it. Water will accumulate in the pits, which can lead to excessive wetting of the grass and rotting. On the bumps, there will be difficulties when the lawn mower passes. Leveling is carried out by pouring or, conversely, taking soil in problem areas.

Presowing soil digging to the depth of the shovel blade

Step # 3. Fertilizing the soil

Lawn grass grows well on neutral soil. Therefore, if the soil is alkaline, it is worth adding peat to it, if it is acidic - lime.

It is important to improve the fertile soil layer by applying mineral or organic fertilizers. It is best to use organic matter - compost, rotted manure, vermicompost.

If the soil is too poor and unsuitable for growing plants, it makes sense to improve it in a more radical way. By completely replacing the top layer with fertile soil. To do this, a "trough" 35-40 cm deep is dug on the site set aside for the future lawn. The poor soil is removed; instead, black soil or other fertile, well-fertilized soil is laid. You can use special lawn soils that contain high quality peat, sand and required amount mineral fertilizers.

After cultivation and fertilization of the soil, its surface is leveled with a rake, and then compacted. This can be done with a garden roller. If this tool is not on the farm, an alternative replacement is used - a round metal or asbestos pipe, a barrel of water. Any such object is rolled into the soil. Compaction is necessary to the extent that you can walk on the soil without sinking your feet into its thickness.

Step # 5. Sowing seeds

On compacted soil, grooves are made with a rake with a depth of about 1 cm. Deeper is not recommended, since the seeds of cereals are small and at a greater depth of planting, they may not sprout. Seeds are sown first along the site, and then across.

"Cutting" grooves with a rake

On the packaging of any herbs sold for the lawn, the rate of seed consumption per 1 m2 of area is indicated. For example, the amount of bluegrass seeds for single-species sowing is 10-18 g / m2, red fescue - 15-25 g / m2, mixture of bluegrass and fescue seeds (50:50) - 12.5-21.5 g / m2 2. Therefore, you should visually delimit the site on square meters and when sowing, try to adhere to the recommended rates.

After sowing with a rake, the seeds are sealed, carefully covering them with earth. Then the soil is rolled up again with a roller or pipe.

Sowing lawn grass seeds is most often done manually.

Step # 6. First watering

The first activity for caring for newly planted seeds will be watering. For this, it is optimal to use sprayers with a fine-dispersed irrigation mode. Then standing puddles will not form on the surface of the earth and the seeds will not be carried away to the garden paths.

System automatic watering allows for accurate irrigation of a lawn that has not yet emerged

If sowing work is carried out in autumn or spring on rainy days, then watering the newly planted seeds is not necessary.

Crop care

At proper care after sowing, the first shoots will appear in 10-14 days.

"Fast" seeds, such as ryegrass, are the first to hatch.

The grass, especially in combined mixtures, emerges and develops unevenly. Therefore, at first, voids will be visible on the lawn. An objective picture will begin to appear only after 3-4 weeks.

Dense emerald green grass with proper lawn care is not formed earlier than a month after sowing

In dry weather, the young lawn will have to be watered every day, starting from the moment of planting. Freshly sprouted sprouts especially need watering, even the slightest drought threatens them with inevitable death.

When the lawn grass grows by 8-10 cm, its first mowing is performed. In this case, the length of the trimmed parts should not exceed 1.5-2 cm, that is, only the tips of the leaves are cut off. This minimizes stress on young plants. The positive aspects of cutting will be visible in a week: the laying of new growth buds will contribute to the rapid development of new shoots. The grass will begin to bush and cover the lawn area with a dense cover.

The further mode of mowing the lawn will depend on the species composition of the grass, season, weather conditions. As a rule, haircuts are done every 5-7 days. In early spring and late autumn, the frequency of mowing decreases due to the slowdown in grass growth.

An experienced agronomist gardener will tell you and show you in more detail how to sow grass seeds for a lawn. Watch the video plot:

The lawn is an important part of any landscape composition, an element that emphasizes and accentuates the style of a particular garden area. To create it with your own hands is a rather laborious task, but at the same time it is extremely exciting. The main features and timing of planting lawn grass are important rules in organizing a thick and beautiful background on the site.

There are several basic types of lawn, different in appearance, trampling resistance and purpose. They differ in the composition of the grass mixture, in relation to shading, mechanical stress. One condition unites all types of lawns -.

Parterre or English classic lawn

Bright green, silky in appearance, the most attractive, but also the most difficult to care for, requires regular haircuts, watering, combing and fertilizing. Such, does not need additional details and decorations. It consists of 80% meadow bluegrass, the remaining 20% ​​- red fescue. Such a lawn is not intended for active movement on its surface.

Moorish or meadow lawn

The least difficult to care for, as it does not require a haircut, forms a flowering lawn, colored bright colors and herbs all season. The effect of continuous flowering is achieved by the selection of a seed composition, which includes almost 90% of lawn perennial grasses as a base. They are complemented by the seeds of wild flowering annuals (poppy seed, cornflower, escholzia, calendula, etc.). All these plants have different flowering times, which allows you to get a blooming carpet throughout the season.

Versatile or garden lawn

Second class after the English parterre lawn. Differs in drought resistance, trampling, not so picky about regular haircuts. With careful care for several seasons, it approaches the parterre as much as possible, taking on an even, bright green color and a dense, dense grass stand typical for it. The composition of the grass mixture includes fescue and pasture ryegrass, therefore this type of lawn is not suitable for arranging sports grounds and parking races for a car. It is most often used for arranging picnic areas, playgrounds and in urban park landscapes.

Sports turf

The most expensive mixture of oak grass bluegrass, perennial ryegrass and red fescue in a ratio of 3: 2: 3 or meadow bluegrass, sheep fescue, red fescue and perennial ryegrass 3: 1: 1: 1. Such a lawn has increased resistance to trampling and has a very attractive appearance. It is used to create sports surfaces for football and golf courses, tennis courts.

Ungrass or ground cover lawn

Very beautiful, requiring no maintenance other than taking a longer time to get a carpet fit. It contains no lawn grasses at all. Consists entirely of ground cover perennial plants, can be used as a separate composition, and as a frame, inserts between slabs of paths, background planting for ornamental shrubs. The choice of plants depends solely on the purpose and location. Lamb, chickweed, creeping thyme, carnation herbaceous, tenacious, dusheney - the list can be continued indefinitely, it is only important to understand what function the green carpet will perform. The main difference from all previous species is that the ground cover lawn is not sown, but grown by seedlings, therefore, it takes three years to achieve maximum decorative effect.

Lawn planting timing, advantages and disadvantages

When to plant lawn grass? You can sow the lawn at almost any time of the year. The choice of sowing dates depends on certain factors that must be taken into account: the composition and condition of the soil, the possibility of providing full watering, the climatic features of the region. Therefore, the question "When to sow lawn grass?" has no definite answer.

Spring

Do-it-yourself lawn grass sown in spring is considered the most successful solution from the point of view of landscape designers. This is due to the fact that during the entire subsequent season there is the possibility of processing, feeding and, if necessary, overseeding the grass. By the end of summer, a full-fledged lawn already has a place to be.

It should be noted that the spring arrangement of the lawn has its disadvantages, which must be taken into account when deciding to sow in the spring:

  • Without fail, it provides for additional labor costs associated primarily with watering a young, immature grass stand during the hot season.
  • Weeds in spring grow no less actively than all other plants; it will be necessary to weed the unformed sod of the lawn quite carefully.
  • Young grass is required a large number of nutrients for full development, it is necessary to regularly feed, ensuring the mineral balance of the soil.

Summer

Summer sowing has proven itself well in the southern regions, where a prolonged warm autumn makes it possible to have time to prepare the plants for winter, get stronger and gain the volume of the root system necessary for successful wintering. Several factors can be attributed to the obvious advantages of summer planting. First of all, it is warm soil, in which the germination of seeds does not pose any problem. In addition, and this is important, when preparing a plot for a lawn, it is easier to remove weeds, since in the bulk they have already grown, but the seeds did not have time to ripen. Herbicide treatment gives excellent results.

Autumn

Planting lawn grass in the fall has several advantages due to the ability to vary the timing. When to sow lawn grass in the fall? Sowing can be done at the very beginning of autumn, when humid warm weather sets in, the heat subsides, morning dew will help provide additional moisture to the soil, the weeds will lose their aggressive activity. The lawn sown at this time manages to rise and grow stronger before the onset of stable cold weather, and in spring a young and bright grass stand emerges from under the snow.

The main disadvantage of such a lawn sowing period is the possibility of early soil frosts, which are unlikely to benefit young seedlings. Sowing lawn grass in autumn in terms of timing must necessarily provide for this risk based on climatic conditions region.

Planting grass before winter, in late autumn, on frost-bitten soil gives an opportunity to avoid a negative impact on seedlings during autumn sowing. The plot is prepared in advance, according to the warmth, and the sowing itself is carried out in November - December, in cold soil. In this case, the seeds do not germinate, but wait for heat directly in the soil, undergoing natural stratification, which has a beneficial effect not only on germination, but also on the health of the future lawn.

Seedlings will sprout together in spring, will be strong and resistant to various kinds of diseases. One important rule should be remembered: sowing on slopes in late autumn is unacceptable, we sow only on horizontal surfaces. This is due to the likelihood of seeds being washed away by melt water. Sowing the lawn in autumn will allow you to get not only an excellent lawn in the spring, which will begin to sprout almost immediately after the snow melts, but also free up time for more important ones.

Arrangement of a lawn

First and foremost, regardless of the timing of sowing, before planting lawn grass, the site should be carefully prepared and the following set of measures should be carried out:

  • markup;
  • weed removal;
  • leveling the site, removing stones and debris;
  • thorough digging;
  • giving the soil a balanced composition;
  • fertilization.

When marking out the area for the lawn, it is necessary to immediately take into account its intended shape, the plants that will be located on it solitary, flower beds and rabatki. If a track is planned, it must be done or planned in advance.

It is most convenient to remove weeds from the area under the lawn with herbicides, such as Roundup. The area planned for the lawn is sprayed over the surface of the plants. It should be remembered that herbicides have the same effect on both weeds and cultivated plants... If there are any plantings nearby, be sure to cover them with polyethylene, in order to avoid getting the solution on them.

Leveling the site, removing stones and possible construction debris is necessary for the future decorative state of the lawn. A green meadow dotted with pits and bumps will not look very presentable.

Leveling the area under the lawn

Digging the site is carried out with a bayonet, the earth should be loose, light and fertile. In addition, deep digging contributes to additional cleansing of the soil from the roots of weeds, stones, etc. As a rule, this process is combined with the introduction of additional elements depending on the composition of the soil (sand, humus, manure, peat), giving it a balanced composition.

After carrying out the above measures, the earth is tamped with a roller weighing up to 100 kg and left under fallow for two weeks. Mineral fertilizers are applied one day before sowing. In spring and summer sowing, nitrogen-containing complexes are used, in autumn - with a minimum nitrogen content.

In general, the preparation of a plot for a lawn takes about a month.


Approaching the lawn, we sometimes see multi-colored beads scattered on it. And only close we discover that it is ...

Sowing the lawn

Before sowing the lawn grass, the prepared area with the applied fertilizers is raked, slightly loosening and harrowing the granules. Divide the area into conditional squares, and the prepared seeds are divided by the same amount. The consumption of lawn grass seeds can be calculated using the formula, but if you take it roughly, it is 4-5 kilograms per hundred square meters. Sowing is carried out in squares, in two perpendicular directions. This will allow the seeds to spread evenly over the surface of the soil, and the lawn will turn out to be thick, even, without bald spots. At the end, the crops are thoroughly watered, preventing soil erosion. Then you just have to wait for the shoots and enjoy the man-made beauty.

Lawn seeders

In addition to the manual method of planting grass, you can use special seeders. The lawn seeder is a device for sowing seeds into the ground and spreading fertilizer granules. With such a device, you can sow evenly, accurately and most importantly quickly.

Lawn seeders are divided into several types:

- universal,

- special,

- combined.

A mechanical or manual seeder is a reliable agricultural tool for sowing lawn grass, which can significantly reduce the seeding time, and provide a good, evenly planted and beautiful lawn on the site.

A beautiful, well-groomed lawn near the house - this picture pleases not only the look. Emerald grass emphasizes architectural solutions, highlights flower beds, rabatki, alpine slides. It doesn't take much time to make a lawn with your own hands, but you need to know how to do it correctly.

Almost all lawns are based on grass. There are different types, with different characteristics, in different colors... Not all of them do well in the climate of central Russia. Therefore, if you are going to buy a ready-made mixture, pay attention to zoning: in the first winter you risk losing the entire lawn.

You need to be especially careful with ryegrass. It rises quickly, creates a thick beautiful carpet, but does not tolerate frost well and freezes in our climate. When buying a ready-made herbal mixture, see its composition: there should be a little ryegrass. If it does freeze, it won't do much harm.

When to sow the grass

You can sow grass from May 1 to August 15. At spring sowing Slightly increase the consumption of seeds per square of area (by 10-15%). So you will get a beautiful lawn faster and the lawn will leave stronger in winter. Because of high density the plants will begin to compete with each other and the weak ones will be crowded out. Only the strong will survive until the fall.

When sowing in summer, adhere to the application rate. Due to lack of time, weak plants will not have time to displace, but everyone will be weakened by this struggle. Therefore, good maintenance is important for summer lawns.

What is the best lawn grass

The most beautiful color and dense grass stand in fescue and bluegrass. Their greens are delicate and emerald. When creating a parthene lawn, they are used. But for other types of lawns, on which they will walk, they cannot be used: they will quickly trample. On such lawns, bent grass of different varieties is often sown. Not so gentle, it tolerates some degree of stress well.

For shady lawns, fescue is also more suitable. But even she will not grow in deep and permanent shadow. Sunlight is the basis of photosynthesis. And at least some time the lawn should be lit.

Types of lawns

We are accustomed to the fact that a lawn is necessarily a grass covering the soil. It can be arranged, rabatki, and other decorative elements. This is not entirely true. There are at least three more varieties of flowering lawns. They are undoubtedly more decorative, but you will hardly be able to walk on them.

Blooming lawns

They are based on cereals, but significantly "diluted" with perennial or annual flowering plants... They are selected so that flowering takes place during the entire growing season - from mid-spring to late autumn. Depending on what kind of plants are included in the composition, there are three types of flowering lawns.

Lugovoi

Already from the name it is clear that the composition of the plants that can be seen in a real meadow. Only rarely in its entirety and in strictly measured proportions. Added to the cereals are traditional grassland dwellers such as clover, chamomile, daisy, monotonous loosestrife, yarrow and other flowering or ornamental foliage plants. Despite the abundance of flowers, the main ones are herbs.

The meadow lawn is highly decorative. V different time bloom different plants and the view is constantly changing, the palette is changing

It is clear that you will not often mow such beauty, but once or twice a season you have to cut it for renewal and rejuvenation. Plants are perennial, therefore, with proper watering, they quickly restore decorativeness. Sowing the entire territory with such a mixture is not always appropriate, but some zones are very pleasing to the eye.

Mauritanian

It differs in that the flowers are used for annuals. Therefore, such a lawn is not cut at all. Grains are picked up by undersized ones, there are fewer of them than flowers. Flowers dominate the Moorish lawn. Both in height and in quantity (look at the photo).

It looks like a Moorish lawn - a riot of colors all season

They are selected so that the flowering is as long as possible. Usually in the composition of poppy seed, cornflower, calendula, matiola, large-flowered flax, escholzia and other bright annuals.

Non-herbal

This is a completely unusual lawn in composition, consisting of ground cover plants. Sow them in open ground- a hopeless business, growing seedlings is a long time, and buying ready-made is expensive. Therefore, a non-grass lawn has been grown for more than one year or two: plants are planted in small quantities, waiting for them to grow. It is most difficult to grow such a lawn with your own hands: the results of labor are visible only after a few years, but the effort is worth it.

Unconventional lawn - ungrassy made from ground cover arsthenia

Grass lawns

From a layman's point of view different types grass lawns are almost the same: the color may be slightly different. But besides a different shade of green, they have different characteristics: you can walk on one, on the other - it is contraindicated, the seeding rate is different, different care is required. Naturally, different herbs with different characteristics are used.

Ordinary

The most resistant to trampling, you can walk on it. Grasses are selected from tough, rough-looking. But it is easier to care for it, less often to weed, some mistakes, which are often made when self-sowing, are not visible. An ordinary lawn is an excellent choice for a summer cottage.

Parterre

This is one of the most decorative and ceremonial lawns. Differs in high decorativeness, herbs are selected delicate, beautiful colors. The grass is low and dense, with proper care it looks just gorgeous. Such lawns are arranged in open places, but where no one will walk: too soft grains will not withstand such a load. Therefore, the parterre lawn (see photo) is sown where they only walk along the paths.

The parterre lawn is one of the most decorative and "smart"

Special

It is planted on slopes. As part of its herbs, which have extensive root system, capable of keeping the soil from washing out. The decorativeness of such a coating is average, but it performs its main purpose well. A special lawn can be planted on a slope leading to a river or lake, if there is one on your site.

Sports

The mixture is more complex - in addition to traditional varieties of cereals, there are special ones that are more resistant to abrasion. The decorativeness of a sports lawn is not its main characteristic, therefore even a very well-groomed lawn looks much worse than an ordinary one, and even more so a parterre lawn. But it has a very high abrasion resistance.

Due to use special herbs, its cost is higher, more difficult to care for. Therefore, it is worth sowing with such a mixture those zones that will be actively exploited: a playground, an area where they will actively walk - near a gazebo, a sports ground,. The rest of the area is most often set aside for an ordinary lawn.

It's better to sow a sports turf

Natural

For this type of coating, mixtures are not bought, no work is carried out. They just cut the grasses that are. Most often, a natural lawn is left in the garden: it protects the soil well from drying out, and the requirements for decorativeness are not very high here. Plants that are too large and do not fit the desired pattern are removed manually. The rest in the process of haircuts become smaller and smaller, forming sod of different colors.

How to make a beautiful lawn

Growing a lawn consists of several stages:

  • Soil preparation - removing weeds, if necessary - adjusting acidity and increasing fertility.
  • Sowing grass, regular watering.
  • First haircut. It is carried out after the stand reaches a certain size.
  • Regular grooming and occasional haircut.

In the process, you will have to monitor soil moisture and promptly remove weeds, from time to time to feed, sow bald spots that may appear after an overly dry summer or too harsh winter. This, in short, is the whole technology of growing a lawn, and then in detail point by point.

Soil preparation

The first thing to do is to assess the fertility of the soil. If the soil is clay or loam, the grass will not grow normally on it. You will have to do some serious soil preparation. There are two options: fill the area with fertile soil from above, or remove the soil and fill in the soil in the formed foundation pit.

It's easier, of course, to just fall asleep, but this is not always possible to implement: the layer of earth in this case should be about 20 cm. Raising the lawn to such a height is not the most reasonable solution: there will be problems with water drainage, high, well-fortified curbs are required, and the outer it looks strange. Therefore, clay soils are more often removed to a depth of 15-20 cm, and then earth is brought into the formed pit.

If you chose the second option, you can lay it on the bottom of the pit. It will prevent weeds from germinating through it, and you will not have problems with weeding.

If the soil is normal, preparing the soil for lawn grass is not so difficult. All weeds are removed first. This can be done mechanically - with a hoe and / or by hand, you can use herbicides. They are bred according to the instructions, the place of the future lawn is watered. After a few days, the vegetation turns yellow and dries up, it is removed. Simultaneously with the release from weeds, stones, roots, and other fragments that can interfere with the growth of the horse system are removed.

The next step is to check the acidity of the soil. Nearly all grasses in turf mixtures thrive on neutral soils. If you want to have a beautiful lawn, you will have to correct its acidity. Therefore, in a store for gardeners and gardeners, find a kit for determining the acidity of the soil and check what kind of soil is on your site. This is just a litmus test that you need to lay on the soil, wait until it becomes stained and, using the color chart on the package, determine the acidity of your soil. If the soil is acidic, add lime, if the reaction is alkaline, sprinkle crushed peat. Next comes the digging. Simultaneously with loosening, remove those stones and roots that come across.

In swampy soils, in order to grow a beautiful lawn, it is necessary to create normal conditions for water drainage.

The next step is to add a fertile layer. Fertile loose and light soil is brought in and distributed over the entire plot in an even layer 6-10 cm thick. The layer is leveled first with shovels, then with a rake. In this case, it is advisable to form a slight slope towards the fence: this way you will not have problems with waterlogging the lawn in showers: water will drain from the site. The slope is made minimal - 1 cm per meter or one and a half. This is quite enough to ensure the outflow of water, but outwardly it will not be noticeable.

Preparing the soil for the lawn - leveling with a rake

One tip: Imported land contains roots, stones, twigs, etc. To remove them, it is sieved through a coarse mesh (as is done during construction, when sand is sieved). And the sifted one is already being transported around the site.

The next step in arranging a lawn with your own hands is tamping or rolling. It allows you to compact the soil, and when a person steps on the lawn, the soil under the foot does not crumble, but remains flat. Also, this process allows you to identify irregularities that will necessarily appear as a result of all earthwork.

If there is no special roller, it can be made from a piece of asbestos or iron pipe. You put a rod inside the pipe, you hook the handles to it (even though you just tie a rope). You made the entire lawn roller with your own hands. Now he is dragged around the site, tamping the soil until it can stand on it without falling through.

Rolling your lawn is an important step in detecting irregularities. To do this, use a lawn roller (or make it from a pipe, barrel)

When rolling the lawn, humps and pits will certainly appear. We remove the surplus from the humps, fill the holes. Having leveled the surface in this way, we take a lawn roller and once again go through the site. To get a perfectly flat surface, you can take a long board and stretch it together along the site, cutting off the unevenness with an edge. Or make a device from two boards - as in the photo below. They can work alone.

Preparing a lawn area includes careful leveling of the soil

Fertilization

Fertilizers can be applied at several stages (one of them). In principle, if you pour 6-10 cm of imported fertilizer on top of normal soil, you can not use fertilizers. But for more active growth, you can add:

  • after the imported soil has been scattered over the site and before leveling with a rake;
  • if dry fertilizers are used, they can be mixed with the seeds;
  • dilute and water the soil.

Most optimal way- watering. It guarantees a more even distribution of nutrients. But with this method, rarely does anyone want to bother himself, unless there is. The other two are equivalent. It is more convenient to apply together with the seeds: it takes less time.

We plant grass

First, it is necessary to loosen the rammed earth a little with a rake. Just take a light rake, loosening a little upper layer... Now you can sow the grass.

Buying a seeder that costs about $ 200-300 for a single use is hardly reasonable, therefore, pour the seeds for the lawn into a bucket, and the old ones grandfather's method scatter over the surface: take a handful and pass it little by little through your fingers, scatter more or less evenly. For those who want at least some kind of mechanization, you can offer two options for the simplest seeders for lawn grass, which are easy to make with your own hands. Is it a tin or plastic bottle, in which they made holes (see photo).

So that it does not happen that it is dense in one corner and empty in the other, it is advisable to divide the plot and seeds into parts. Seed consumption is indicated for each mixture. What is the area of ​​the sown area, you can estimate on the spot and measure the amount that needs to be scattered. For those who make a lawn in the country with their own hands for the first time, it is better to divide the measured amount into two equal parts and go through the section first along and then across. This will distribute the seeds more evenly.

After sowing, the seeds must be covered with earth. There are two ways to do this:

  • Walk around the site with a rake, trying to sprinkle the seeds with earth. This method is less reliable - many remain outside, they are pecked by birds, and germination is deteriorating.
  • Sprinkle on top with the remnants of the imported earth. Layer - 3-5 mm. All seeds are obtained covered with earth, are in better conditions, the seedlings are better.

Watering and waiting

Watering the lawn is necessary depending on the conditions: the soil should not dry out, but it should not be very wet either. Water should not gush out in a large stream, there should be no streams or puddles. Break the stream into small streams: install a sprinkler or sprinkler, if you water manually, put a nozzle on the hose. In the photo above, you will see several options that will help solve the watering problem. They are sold in stores.

There are also several homemade lawn sprinklers available. Most of them are a plastic bottle with holes made in it, connected to watering hose... She can lie and irrigate the adjacent area. If there is enough pressure in the system, you can tie it to a column. In this case, the watering area will be larger. Do-it-yourself sprinklers for watering the lawn are very simple to make. Look at the photo.

Another way to get fine splashes: in a cut plastic pipe punch holes or make a thin cut. Either thin jets or a fan are obtained (in the photo below on the right).

Why does the water need to be sprayed? Because for the normal development of the root system, the soil must be moist (but not wet) to a depth of about 6-10 cm.If it is simply flooded from above, this will only make matters worse: water displaces oxygen and the roots have nothing to breathe. So splashing or - The best way watering the lawn.

After seven to ten days, the first shoots appear. They are still rare, but don't be upset. Only the seeds of some varieties have hatched, in which shoots appear quickly. The rest germinate later. With proper care, after 20-30 days, the height of the grass stand reaches 10-15 cm. At this time, the first mowing should be carried out. Leave about 5 cm in height the first time. At this height, the grass will grow actively. After another 10-12 days, it will again be about 12 cm high.Now you can cut the grass shorter - leaving 3-3.5 cm.

How to care for your lawn grass

The main care is timely watering, weed removal and occasional mowing. If you water with sprinkling, the soil will contain a sufficient amount of oxygen and the plants should develop normally.

Problems with a lack of oxygen can arise after prolonged heavy rainfall, when the water is puddled on the site or with improper watering with the same result. Then aeration of the lawn is necessary. To do this, use a roller similar to the one that was used to tamp the soil, but this one has points that pierce the sod. Through these punctures, oxygen enters the soil, the plants begin to grow better.

The lawn on the backyard is the dream of many gardeners. Moreover, they are absolutely sure that, regularly receiving the harvest of vegetables, berries and fruits, they will cope with the cultivation of ordinary grass without any problems. But everything is not as simple as it seems: there are many important nuances... Of course, nothing supernatural is required from the gardener, but study the method of planting a lawn and stock up on the necessary tools need in advance.

Spring planting of a lawn: advantages and disadvantages

Gardeners practice lawn planting from April-May to September-October. There is no strictly recommended time, it is determined by personal wishes and the climate in the region. All that the grass needs for development is a sufficiently warmed up soil, a positive air temperature and watering in the required volume.

Gardeners successfully growing on household plots a wide variety of cultures, it is often believed that there will be no problems with lawn grass, but there are also nuances here

But many professionals in the field landscape design they prefer to do this in the spring, motivating the following:

  • Cold weather can be expected only in autumn. The grass will have time to take root, it is enough to get stronger. The conditions for its development are the most favorable. By the fall, it will already be possible to assess how successful the idea of ​​planting a lawn was.
  • There is time to eliminate the shortcomings. You can redevelop the lawn, sow seeds where necessary.
  • The soil is wet in spring, saturated with melt water. This contributes to a faster and more harmonious emergence of seedlings from seeds.
  • When planting before winter, it is necessary to calculate the time very accurately. Either the seeds should "fall asleep" and wake up only in spring, or the lawn should already germinate before the cold weather and get strong enough. The grass will die if young shoots fall under a thaw or the winter turns out to be with little snow and harsh.
  • When the lawn is sown in summer, prolonged drought is always likely. This means that it will take more time and effort from the gardener to regularly irrigate the plantings. Seeds and seedlings are washed out of the soil in the process, and bald spots are formed.

There is only one risk during spring planting - possible return frosts. Mature lawn grass tolerates freezing temperatures, but young shoots may die. Therefore, in those regions where frosts in April and May are by no means uncommon, it is better to wait until early summer. Perhaps, the water consumption will increase, but you will avoid the death of the lawn already at the germination stage. Focus on long-term weather forecasts.

Video: when and how to plant a lawn correctly

What you need to plant a lawn

In principle, you can get by with standard garden tools - a rake, a shovel, a pitchfork, and so on. But it is better to make your work as easy as possible, otherwise considerable physical effort and certain skills will be required. In very small areas, the use of technology is unprofitable, but on large areas you cannot do without it. There are mechanisms for removing sod, for leveling the soil, for compacting it, and for sowing seeds:

  • turf shovel;

    The sod shovel, otherwise called torf iron, is an invention of English gardeners; it has sharpened all the edges, which greatly facilitates the process - the sod is, as it were, trimmed

  • sod removal machine;

    The turf remover with a gasoline engine "bites" into the soil with a pointed crossbar of the frame in the direction of travel and cuts the turf, it is removed in whole layers

  • rake for leveling the soil;

    The area for the lawn can be fairly well leveled with the back of a conventional rake.

  • garden skating rink;

    The garden roller compacts the soil and breaks up the clods at the same time

  • seeder for lawn grass.

    The lawn seeder ensures even seed distribution with the metering roller

Site selection and preparation

A suitable place for a lawn is a flat horizontal area or a gentle slope. A slight slope is even better - rain and melt water will not stagnate. You can achieve the desired result in the shade and in the sun, in the presence of a substrate of any quality, with the exception of a frank swamp. Such disadvantages as the acid-base reaction of the soil, excessively light or heavy soil are leveled during the preparation of the soil by adding additional ingredients. With regard to light deficiency, there are herbs such as:

  • fescue (tolerates low light, prefers a dry, light substrate with an acid reaction);
  • red fescue (tolerates partial shade, frost and lack of moisture in the soil);
  • bluegrass (undemanding to illumination and quality of the substrate, it grows successfully in soil prone to water stagnation);
  • pasture ryegrass (maximum shade-tolerant, but does not tolerate drought and severe cold).

A lawn in the shade even has the advantage - it grows slower than in the sun, you need to mow the grass less often.

You can choose lawn grasses that will feel comfortable in different weather conditions and have different requirements for the quality of the substrate.

Video: choosing lawn grass

Think over the scheme in advance, it is even better to draw a plan of the lawn. There may be some structures on the selected site. All this will interfere with the haircut in the future. If you plan to use a lawn mower, not a trimmer, there should be at least a meter of free space between the lawn and any wall or fence. An oversized mower will not allow you to efficiently and evenly cut the grass that is close to the fence.

The grass has a tendency to spread over the area and "choke" any plantings. If there are flower beds, alpine slides, rose gardens, and other elements of landscape design not far from the lawn, use plastic border tapes dug into the soil, which will prevent greenery from spreading uncontrollably.

Beds with the most valuable and rare flowers must be separated from the lawn so that the grass does not "strangle" them

The grass surrounding trees and large bushes is often the reason for the deepening of the root collar. This provokes its heating and the development of rot. If possible, plant trees at the same time as the grass, forming small mounds for them so that the root collar is higher above the ground level, and setting curbs.

Lawn grass can kill shrubs and trees,

If the area is heavily overgrown with weeds, the use of herbicides is recommended to control them. It is useless to weed by hand - the roots of the plants remain in the ground. Dandelions and wheatgrass are especially tenacious.

Roundup is one of the most popular herbicides among gardeners; it must be applied strictly according to the instructions

Next, you need to clean and level the selected area. It is necessary to remove all debris, uproot the stumps, remove a layer of turf about 10 cm thick using a shovel or a special machine. Turf is the surface layer of soil in which most of the roots of weeds are concentrated. Instead of the removed sod, a layer of soil is poured flush with the ground.

At the same time, soil imperfections can be corrected if ordinary garden soil is used to fill the void left after sod removal. Light soil is mixed with powdered clay, heavy soil - with sand, acidified - with dolomite flour, wood ash.

Turf removal helps to better level the area under the lawn

Where groundwater approach to the surface closer than 1 m, and in areas located in the lowlands, drainage is required - a layer of large pebbles, brick chips, ceramic shards 8–10 cm thick and from above - 5–7 cm of fine sand, crushed stone. The drainage is covered with soil (12-15 cm). Each of the three layers is tamped in turn.

If the lawn needs drainage, it is necessary to remove not only the sod, but also the soil under it (about 30 cm)

The surface of the future lawn is leveled, tearing off mounds, bumps and filling the existing holes. The bumpy lawn looks very unaesthetic.

A smooth lawn looks much more presentable than a lawn covered with pits and bumps, so you cannot do without leveling the site

Video: leveling the area under the lawn

The next step is tamping. Compaction is necessary to get rid of voids in the soil. Subsequently, depressions may form in these places of the lawn. Trampling with feet is unproductive, and it also leaves traces. It is better to use a special garden roller or at least a heavy cylindrical object with a flat surface (a processed log, metal pipe). For control along the perimeter of the lawn, low stakes are driven in and a rope is pulled through them. After processing, it should form a perfectly straight line. It is advisable to check the result using a building level.

Video: soil compaction

Further, it is recommended to fallow the soil. The prepared substrate is kept under steam for a month or a month and a half, regularly weeding out the emerging weeds. An alternative is sowing the site with green manure plants, followed by mowing and embedding in the soil as fertilizer. Such a procedure takes extra time from the gardener, so it is often skipped, but as a result, it is possible to almost completely get rid of weeds, improve the quality of the soil, and saturate it with nitrogen.

Pre-sowing the area under the lawn with green manure improves the quality of the soil and provides the grower with natural organic fertilizer in the form of green mass

7-10 days before sowing the grass, apply complex nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus fertilizers - about 50 g / m². Top dressing with a rake is embedded in the ground to a depth of 4–5 cm. Then the site is treated with the same rake or a motor-cultivator, breaking all large lumps of earth larger than a grain of wheat. If this is not done, the surface of the lawn will not be smooth.

Sowing lawn grass

For planting seeds, choose a clear, dry, windless day. The substrate on the surface of the site should dry out, at a depth of 8–10 cm - remain moderately moist. Use a fan rake on the ground to form shallow furrows.

The fan rake forms shallow, even furrows that are easy to navigate when sowing lawn grass

Stir the seeds in the package. Average consumption rate planting material(unless the manufacturer recommends otherwise) - 40-60 g / m². It is not worth saving - otherwise bald spots will form, which will quickly be filled with weeds. And if the plantings are overly thickened, the grass will not have enough nutrients, it will weaken, which does not the best way will affect her appearance... On each side, go about 6–8 cm outside the delineated perimeter of the lawn.

On sale there are both herbal seeds of the same type, and their mixtures, the choice is solely a matter of taste.

Divide the entire area of ​​the site into approximately equal squares. Divide the entire volume of seeds into the same number of parts. Alternatively, you can use a template frame made of thin strips with 1 m sides, gradually moving it over the lawn.

Sow seeds as evenly as possible and without saving - the quality of the future lawn depends on it

Fill each square one by one, scattering half of the planting material parallel to the furrows from the rake, and the other perpendicular to them. You can do it manually, but a special seeder will cope better with the task. Pre-mix small seeds with an equal volume of sand.

The lawn planter distributes seeds more evenly than manual sowing

After finishing sowing, use the same rake to cover the seeds with soil (layer 1–2 cm) and compact the area with a roller. The final stage is moderate irrigation of the future lawn by sprinkling. The appearance of the first shoots is noted within 4–5 days after planting, mass shoots - after 10–15 days. After a month and a half, you can evaluate the general appearance of the lawn and, if necessary, sow seeds.

In some places, the "bald" lawn looks very unaesthetic, so you need to purchase seeds with a margin - you will almost certainly have to sow the grass

Video: the process of sowing lawn grass seeds

Further care of the plantings

Before the emergence of mass shoots, the plot, if there is no precipitation, is irrigated every 2-3 days. The soil must be soaked to a depth of 5–7 cm. Sprinklers and watering cans with fine sprinklers are used for this. The thicker the stream of water and the stronger the pressure, the more seeds are washed out of the soil during irrigation.

The best option for watering the lawn - all kinds of automatic installations simulating natural precipitation

Video: correct watering of the lawn

You can take your time with weeding, wait about a month from the moment the mass shoots appear. The lawn will get a little stronger, it will be possible to step on it. While weeding, place a piece of plywood on the grass and stand on it. Or cut out some kind of mini-skis, snowshoes. This will distribute the pressure evenly and avoid pitting on the lawn.

The lawn is cut for the first time when the grass reaches 8–10 cm. Only the tops are cut, shortening the shoots by 1.5–2 cm. Be sure to check the sharpness of the mower blades (otherwise the grass will be pulled out by the roots). With each successive mow, drive in a different direction (perpendicular or diagonal from the previous mow). Optimal height cover - 4-8 cm.

Mowing the lawn during the active growing season is carried out regularly; it is best to carry out it with a mower, which simultaneously collects the cut grass

The lawn itself will not displace weeds. You can sow it on unprepared soil and then suffer for a long time. Or you can just suffer once and then just take care of the lawn.

Glata

I mow the lawn when the grass grows over 15 cm. Therefore, I have to mow once every 2-3 weeks (I have allocated about 8-9 acres for the lawn).

http://dacha.wcb.ru/index.php?showtopic=21983

I don't have a lawn, but I made a new neighbor for myself. True, instead of a bulldozer, he had relatives who saw the shovels only on TV. They dug up, did not touch the weeds, sowed lawn grass. The first year the sight was deplorable. The field is like a peasant's unshaven stubble from a week ago. And the next year, the lawn grass flooded. Now a neighbor runs around his field with a trimmer every couple of weeks. As for the weeds: at least he has no dandelions, although they rage along the border of the site.

http://dacha.wcb.ru/index.php?showtopic=21983

Weed roots during preparation will remain in any case. It is necessary to walk not with a rake, but "salt" with sand, as if rubbing it with your hands, and then sprinkle the prepared surface with earth (only now it should already be without roots and pebbles) in the same way "salt". After the passage, you can already plant the lawn grass. Press down on top (tamp) with a piece of plywood neatly. Then sprinkle with earth again. Chemical treatment is useless - everything accumulates in the ground, then it is not known what the results will be. Away from sin. But keep in mind: it's not a fact that, having done everything according to science, you will end up with a chic smooth English lawn. Although, there was an experience of replanting and "adding" seeds to bald spots in a place near the house. I’m ashamed to admit, but it was not lawn grass, but the remnants of food for parrots - roughly speaking, millet with oats and something else. As a result, there were several times less dandelions than in other parts of the lawn, and there was neat grass on the bald patch near the house. Not a lawn, of course, but the view was much nicer.

Beginner I

http://dacha.wcb.ru/index.php?showtopic=21983

I love mowing the lawn, for me it's just a rest. I mulch the beds and plantings with sheared grass: such beauty and purity becomes. I just get carried away by how many things I do at once.

http://www.mamcompany.ru/forum/forum11/topic35402/

It is necessary to make a layer of rubble under the fertile soil layer - drainage. It is imperative to tamp both crushed stone and earth (not with your feet, but with a special device - a roller). In general, DO NOT walk on the lawn in wet weather and in early spring - holes remain. When controlling weeds, wear wide slates to relieve pressure. Every spring it is necessary to clean the lawn with a rake (but not a young one). It is also advisable to pierce the sod for oxygen access. It is better to choose a local herb. We water every day at night. Buy seeds with a surplus, as the young lawn freezes in places, you need to sow it. Other seeds give a different color and intensity: even if they are named the same, the batch is still different. It is important not to burn with fertilizers. Mow 1-2 times a week depending on the type of grass (but not the young lawn). A lawnmower needs one that collects the cut grass. Gasoline or electric on a wire with an extension cord - depends on the size of the lawn.

Grunt

https://www.u-mama.ru/forum/family/dacha/792064/

I just loosened the ground, sowed seeds, put the boards down, stomped on them and that's it. The lawn has been growing for the third year already. The main thing, when sowing seeds, do not spare them: the more, the better. And the trimmer is a good thing.

https://forums.drom.ru/house/t1151389359.html

The grass, it would seem, grows everywhere and without assistance. But planting a lawn and keeping it presentable is not an easy task as it seems at first glance. There are also some nuances in the technology of site preparation, and in sowing seeds and in the further care of the "lawn". You need to know about all this in advance if you want to get a really beautiful lawn, and not something unintelligible bald.

An ax is one of the tools that you need to have on the farm. Of course, you can buy it in the store, but if you want to have a reliable and convenient thing, it is better to make the tool yourself. The article will talk about how to make a hatchet at home with your skillful hands and how to properly plant a metal cloth.

How to select and prepare wood

The hatchet is the handle of the working tool. Labor productivity depends entirely on how easy it will be to work with it. Therefore, the usual straight stick will not work in this case. A real haft is a curved bar with an oval section and straight sections. The tail should be widened and bent downwards. Only with this option will the hand of the person performing the work be able to securely hold the tool, while not experiencing fatigue for a long time.

The following types of wood are best suited for making a hatchet:

  • maple;
  • Birch;
  • acacia;
  • ash.

You need to harvest wood in the fall. Birch is perfect for carpentry tools, and maple is more often used for the field version. Its toughness is less than that of birch. The ideal option is considered to be a very durable and rarely shape-shifting ash. It is better to make a hatchet from a section of a tree located near the root, and the workpiece should be 15 cm wider and longer than the future product.

Attention! Before the prepared beams are used for making the hatchet, they must dry for at least a year in a dry, dark place, for example, in the attic. This is necessary so that the finished handle does not dry out and does not begin to dangle in the eyelet.

It is possible to use fresh wood only in the event of a handle breakage as a temporary option to be replaced as soon as possible.

How to make an ax

In order to make an ax you will need:

  • piece of wood;
  • hacksaw;
  • chisel;
  • pencil;
  • file;
  • hammer.

The manufacturing process itself takes place in the following order:


Attention! You need to make the hatchet so that the cross section is oval. In this case, it will be possible to hold it without particularly straining the hand and produce very accurate blows.

Hatchet impregnation and ax attachment

The upper part of the finished handle must be impregnated with a water-repellent compound. Two options will do:

  • drying oil;
  • linseed oil;
  • ski resin.

The selected agent is used to lubricate the wood and leave to dry. The processing is repeated several more times until the fat is absorbed. Ski resin is able to penetrate deeper layers of the workpiece, but it is difficult to find it in stores. Therefore, they often use the first two options.

Advice. You can add a bright dye to the impregnation agent. So the finished tool will be difficult to lose.

The attachment of the ax to the handle is made as follows:


Watching videos and photographs will help you better understand the manufacturing method. Making an ax with your own hands is more difficult than buying it ready-made. However, with the desire and some skills, it is quite possible to get a high-quality tool of labor.

How to make an ax: video

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