Compost made from tree leaves. Fall foliage compost

Fallen leaves after decay turns into humus (humus) - good natural fertilizer.

Having decided on the size, start land works... It is possible to reduce the amount of work a little if the excavated ground is used to create the boards.

This will help to create the desired volume at a shallower depth, however the width of the sides at the top must exceed 40 cm, otherwise there is a high probability that they could be washed away by rains or blown away by the wind.

In addition, it is necessary leave enough soil to make the lid- that is, cover the compost with a layer of soil 5–15 cm thick, but you can do without it.

At the same time, it is undesirable to make the total depth and width of the pit too large, optimal size 1m... If you make it wider or deeper, then it will be more difficult to stir the contents.

We recommend before downloading mix all components compost, this will make its composition more uniform, so the decay processes in all layers will proceed at approximately the same speed. If there is no desire or ability to mix all the components, then can form a cake, that is, lay in layers 1–2 cm thick.

Here optimal composition in percentage:

chopped fallen leaves - 50;
fresh droppings or manure - 20;
kitchen waste - 15;
chopped grass - 10;
ash - 3;
lime or chalk - 2.

These proportions can be changed within wide limits, but it is desirable that the ratio of foliage and nitrogen-containing components, that is, droppings or manure, does not exceed 3: 1.

Very it is important to use droppings or manure that have been exposed to the air for at least a month, because fresh animal excrement contains pathogens of plant diseases, as well as various seeds.

During this time, most of the pathogens will die in them, and the acidic environment will dissolve the seed shells and sharply reduce their germination.

Having loaded a layer of cake 10 cm thick, it is advisable to pour it with one of the preparations containing the necessary microorganisms and a nutrient medium for them. Any means to speed up the maturation of the compost will also work.

It is desirable to carry out such treatment with preparations after laying each layer of such a thickness.

You can do without drugs, but then the decay time will be noticeably longer.

When all layers are loaded, the contents of the pit are covered with earth... Some people mix soil with animal excrement in a 1: 1 ratio.

The thickness of such a cover 5-15 cm... Instead of it, you can also use a wooden shield of a suitable size, the lower part of which should be covered with polyethylene, this will extend its service life.

Service

The pit does not require special maintenance, it is enough Stir the contents once a week... In this case, there is no need to completely turn the contents over, it is enough to put a long, strong stick into the compost and wiggle it inside. For every square meter 3-5 such teddings are enough.

While the compost is ripe, an unpleasant odor will appear after each tedding. When microorganisms completely process organic matter, a smell characteristic of a living forest will appear.

After the appearance of the forest smell it is necessary to excavate part of the soil covering the pit and shovel the contents.

If the compost has turned into a mass like loose earth without an unpleasant smell and traces of moisture, and no earthworms are visible in it, then the process is completely over. If any sign is absent, then the heap needs to be turned again and left to ripen.

As part of the fastest humus which ripens in 1-2 months are included:

chopped fallen leaves;
dried excrement of domestic animals or birds;
chopped grass or;
means for accelerating the maturation of compost;
acidity reducing agents, i.e. lime, ash or chalk.

Once fully matured, the compost is ready for use.

Application of humus

Here are the main how to use it:

preparation of soil mixtures;
fertilization of soil in gardens or vegetable gardens;
mulching.

Soil mixtures based on humus used for germinating seeds and growing seedlings, because their structure is more suitable for these purposes than most soils.

The soil mixture is easily air and water permeable, contains many nutrients and trace elements necessary for the rapid development of plants, and is also filled with nitrogen.

The composition of the soil mixture and the proportions of the main components are determined individually, taking into account:

soil properties;
humus composition;
plant breed.

Fertilizer in orchards or vegetable gardens is the main purpose of humus. For this it scattered throughout the fertilized area and after 3-5 days dig up shovel or walk-behind tractor. Such treatment improves the structure of the soil and fills the soil with the substances necessary for the rapid growth of plants.

Fertilizer applied in spring or autumn... Spring introduction of humus is done 1–2 months before planting of seedlings or seeds, so that the structure of the soil has time to recover.

An autumn deposit is made shortly before the onset of frost and after the removal of all annual plants.

Humus mulching can be carried out at any time of the year, because this material does not harm plants.

This mulch is less effective at protecting against frost, sun and weeds, but gently improves soil structure, thanks to which it is possible to do without loosening. However, on hot days or before winter, you shouldn't neglect mulch made from cut grass or shredded wood waste.

Conclusion

Fallen leaves - good material to obtain compost, however, it is very difficult to make high-quality humus from one foliage. Therefore, other materials are used along with it.

After reading the article, you learned:

how to make compost from fallen leaves;
what substances and why are added to such compost;
how to use ready-made foliar fertilizer.

In contact with

I have a friend, Elena, she lives in Austria. Like us, the gardeners of the post-Soviet space, she has a vegetable garden. Here is her recent letter: “Hello, look - interesting idea about leaf compost ”.

And gave several links.

Compost made from leaves. Is it only one of them?

No, not only. When you fly over the beds, you try to pull out the grass with a root so that nothing remains in the ground, otherwise new greenery will grow from a scrap of root, thicker and stronger than the previous one. Where to attach the grass? Of course in.

It turns out that stems, roots with soil residues, actually green leaves go into it. Branches of trees and bushes are not laid. Kitchen waste too.

Ripening time

Such a mixture in or in a pit begins to rot, but the process is slow. Sometimes two or three years must pass before a new substance, similar to soil, is born from a heap of damp greenery. Is there a time to wait? Is there extra space in the vegetable garden or garden for the three compost piles or bins?

It is unlikely, because the area of an ordinary garden plot in Russia is 5-6 acres, on which so much needs to be placed. So they throw out weeds from the site.

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How foreigners make compost from leaves

I don’t know who was the first inventor, but the idea was not only born, but also managed to take root. It turns out that the entire composting process in time can take exactly one week, and does not require additional space. Amusing?

Leaf compost machine

Of course, they read the title and thought that the device should be taken somewhere. Not to take or buy, but to build by ourselves, from those materials that the owner likes the most or with which he knows how to work. It can be lumber, or it can be metal pipes. You can use fifty boards. It is not difficult to buy barrels either, and sometimes it is possible to receive it as a gift, if it is not an exchange container. You can ask around from the manufacturers of dietary supplements or dry herbal mixtures.

Pipes can be found at scrap yards, the same plumbers in residential offices that are now called management companies. Yes, and a neighbor, making repairs in the bathroom, will not refuse to give you used pipes: he needs to carry them to the garbage collector, and just then you are ready to help - take all this "good" for yourself.

I have already figured out what we can build such a device from: several years ago we brought a whole truck of old pipes to our three families. Thanks to the plumbers, they helped. Already managed to puzzle her husband with a new venture. Let's see how it will come true here.

Now let's see. I offer you five videos, they are not in Russian, I have no translation yet. But even so, everything is clear: what to do, how to do it, what kind of compost is obtained in a week.

The nuances of making a device with your own hands:

A definite plus - it is convenient to rotate the container with a handle:

Making a compost device from a plastic barrel on a wooden bed:

It is possible to mount two drums on one bed:

Mechanically driven device:

Afterword ... Or afterview?

Have you looked? Did you see everything you wanted? Which version of the bed did you like more: made of wood or metal pipes? In general, at least something could surprise? Have you noticed that after a week the compost is exactly the same as in normal conditions after 2 years? Do you understand what the hardest work is that simply escapes the gardener, if you use this method? That's right, tedding!

Shoveling compost is the most difficult task, as it is not difficult to throw grass and leaves into a box or pit. Therefore, gardeners usually store the grass, but they forget to shift it from place to place.

Here turning, shoveling, tedding is the main method of cooking. But how easy it is physically to do everything! And myself " nuclear reactor»Easy to build!

Why is this foliage and grass compost good?

There is not a single soil inhabitant in it. In fact, it is a dead substance. After all, all processes occur when the temperature rises, therefore earthworms, wood lice are likely to die. But this is exactly the kind of compost we need for growing seedlings or indoor flowers.

And we will be able to populate it with soil microflora. We will talk about this in one of the new articles.

You can also compost in other ways, the choice is yours.

Making compost from leaves is not difficult. The main thing here is the correct approach. Many believe that after the leaves have fallen, they are no longer suitable for anything, and they just need to be taken to a landfill. But is this true? Is there any benefit from fallen leaves? We will find out in our article.

If you are a true gardener, then you always look at your garden from a professional point of view. You can always throw away the foliage. But how to make the foliage beneficial?

Why is compost needed?

Compost from tree leaves is needed to retain moisture in the soil, improve the quality of the soil and its composition. By bringing the leaves from the planting to your garden, and putting them in a heap, you will provide yourself with humus for a long time. After all, it can be stored for a very long time.

If you have a lot of trees in your garden, then you will be constantly provided with raw materials for compost. If there are few or no trees in the garden, then you need to go to the forest or plant.

Using garden compost is very beneficial:

Foliage contains a huge amount of organic matter that is so necessary for the soil.
Compost also contains minerals that enrich the soil.
The composition of the compost is very close to manure; nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium - all these elements nourish the earth and ensure an excellent harvest.

In order to make compost from fallen leaves correctly, you do not need special skills or skills. You just need to follow the recommendations:

1. First make a bunch of leaves. This is in order not to mix them with other residues of vegetation in the garden. Foliage has its own specifics of decomposition. It takes two years for it to completely decompose and be used as compost.

The leaves of some trees take even longer, for example, oak, chestnut. Other vegetation takes a year to decompose.

2. After the leaves are gathered in a heap, they must be compacted and moistened.

3. Add a small amount of ready-made compost to the foliage and a little lime to balance the acid balance.

4. In case you need compost for plants that prefer acidic soil, no lime is needed.

6. Look under cover periodically and moisten the pile if necessary.

7. Another option is to use plastic bags. Holes are made in them for ventilation, and after that the bags are densely filled with foliage.

Compost pit how to do it right

Some gardeners collect compost using the compost pit method. How to make compost from leaves in this way?

1. Dig a hole thirty centimeters deep and about two and a half meters wide.

2. Make bedding at the bottom of the hole five centimeters thick.

3. Stack dry foliage, sprinkling with saltpeter to moisturize.

4. After laying ten centimeters of foliage, sprinkle it with turf to enrich it with trace elements and microflora.

5. Pour the next layer of leaves and sprinkle with liquid from the manure, you can add earth from your garden.

6. The next layer of foliage must be dampened with caustic soda. It is not a fertilizer, but it is good at extracting chlorophyll from the leaf.

7. Wood ash is poured onto the next layer of leaves, then leaves again, which are moistened with water.

8. Add a layer of straw or hay and sprinkle with a mild solution of manganese (1 percent).

9. The whole structure is covered with turf, which is laid down tightly with grass down.

10. One month after laying the pit, open and loosen all layers for oxygenation.

11. It is possible to use two holes: one for laying and the other for loosening. You simply transfer the compost to a second pit, while loosening the mixture.

The benefits of dry foliage

It's worth noting that dry foliage isn't just good for compost. It is often used by gardeners for different purposes. For example, gardeners often use dry foliage when preparing their beds.

If you mix leaves with hay, this mixture will provide warmth to the plant's root system and protect against hypothermia. But this is done exclusively with dry leaves. Store them in boxes or boxes indoors.

Also, dry foliage is used as mulch for shrubs and fertile trees... Mulch is also used in the beds. In a compost pit, dry foliage is used as bedding at the bottom.

Still very useful property dry leaf it serve as a heater for plants that are planted for the winter. For example, garlic.

Having dropped him off at the beginning of autumn, garlic covered with dry foliage in early winter. Snow covers the foliage, and the plant safely tolerates any frost, and in the spring it pleases with an excellent harvest.

So before throwing foliage out of your garden, think about how much that pile of leaves can do.

Good afternoon to all gardeners! Gardener I. Krivega tells how to make compost with your own hands from fallen leaves. Leaves are gratuitous material that we bypass with our attention, but in vain! This is a very high quality organic fertilizer.

What can be sent to the compost heap

The picture shows what can be added to the compost pit. These are foliage and food waste, and tops, and thin branches, and lawn grass, and waste products of pets.

Leaves are highly underestimated

Everyone knows that the main organs of plants are roots, stems and leaves. Meanwhile, the leaves were not lucky in this regard - few people write about their benefits ...

The leaves are only mentioned that they contain chlorophyll and, in the process of photosynthesis, provide the whole plant with carbohydrates and other substances. Well, as for the already fallen tree leaf, it is believed that it is already completely useless and unnecessary, since it does not contain nutrients, and it is not a fertilizer.

This means that an amateur gardener concludes for himself that the fallen leaf should be taken to the landfill, which is done in the city, and in the village, most often castings are burned in autumn heaps. And what will happen to the roots of trees without this protective layer? Are autumn leaves really so useless?

Florists were the first to talk about the use of leaf humus

And it's clear why. The moisture content of the soil increases and its structure and mechanical composition improve. Is this only necessary for flower growers? If you bring leaf litter from the forest, and even take it from your site and simply put it in a heap, it will be stored for a long time without decaying.

Forest litter is another matter. From this, in fact, the desire to prepare leaf humus and compost began.

Collecting half-ripe leaves from the forest

In a deciduous or mixed forest, without depriving trees, I rake a layer of semi-rotten leaves, capturing a little and the top layer of the soil. Usually this layer already consists of leafy humus. This composition has an acidic soil solution. I put the entire prepared mass in spherical hemispherical heaps and compact it a little.

How to determine the degree of readiness

The readiness of leaf humus is determined by outward appearance and smell (there is a purely forest, and not putrid smell). Such humus can be introduced into the soil as a loosening and fertilizing material. Forest litter prepared as humus, compost, is especially good for clay soil.

How to prepare this compost component?

The pile is watered with slurry, a solution of fermented herbs, and feces can be added, as recommended. But the latter is not included for sanitary and hygienic reasons.

In such a short time that I take away for composting - 8 months, helminths, if they are there, will not have time to disinfect and will fall into the soil. Also, it seems to me, it is necessary to pay attention to the preparation of prefabricated compost, where the conditions are different, and the preparation time too.

Compost contains only healthy leaves

We are talking about a fallen leaf, but it is introduced into the compost and with fruit trees and shrubs, only on condition healthy leaves not damaged by pests and diseases. Affected leaves must be burned or removed from the garden plot further away, where they are disinfected in a natural way.

This applies not only to leaves from trees, but also to vegetable and other herbal leaves, which are also included in the compost, but in a healthy state, without rot, pests, diseases. In the compost, the leaves contribute to better aeration, moisture holding and act as a ripper.

But to accelerate the maturation of the compost, the leaves must be applied in a crushed form.... Otherwise, the leaves of a tree such as aspen stick together in plates and are stored in this form for years. It is best to add birch, linden leaves, which do not need to be crushed.

Application of dry leaves

The dry leaf is used not only in compost, but also as a component in the construction warm beds, where in a mixture with straw, hay, grass residues, it contributes to the generation of heat for plant roots, and also serves as a protective layer from the dank cold soil layer.

To do this, I collect dry leaves in dry weather and store them until spring in closed containers. In particular, I keep them in barrels under a canopy and in cans.

A dry leaf is also used by me as a mulching material for the trunks of fruit trees and shrubs, as well as garden beds... Including as a protective layer, which means plant roots from frost and drying out of the soil. The soil under the leaf is always moderately moist.

Now the autumn period of plant life has come. This year, the first to turn yellow and fall are the leaves of birch, linden, mountain ash and other plants. Further, a massive leaf fall will begin.

Dry leaves are used along with dry peat, chopped straw as bedding material with a layer of up to 30 cm, which absorbs liquid well when preparing a site for preparing any compost.

Warming with leaves of beds with winter garlic

Dry leaves passed my test for suitability as an insulating, and at the same time, aerosol material for winter garlic planted in late September - early October.

On the ridge with the planted garlic, I pour a layer of 5-10 cm of dry birch leaves and cover it with spruce branches or stalks of raspberries, Jerusalem artichoke - so that they are not blown away by the wind, in winter I add 20-30 cm of snow.

There has never been a case that winter garlic, planted to a depth of 8-10 cm, I was slightly frozen. In the spring, when the shelter is removed, it actively grows and gives good large bulbs.

Making a compost pit

Over the years of gardening, I have developed the following technology. Considering the possibility of compost freezing, I cook the latter in shallow pits. The depth of the pit is 30 cm, the width is 2.5 m.

Experience has shown that the process of decay, fermentation in the pit does not stop even in winter. Now I am already taking care of composting for the right time... The deadline is in the foreground.

And microorganisms, bacteria, earthen fleas, fungi, worms and other living creatures in the soil will figure out for themselves how to deal with this organic matter, plant food. This is noticeable on trial, test beds. Plants vegetate more actively than on ordinary ones.

Laying layers in a pit

In general, to be honest, I cannot imagine how to use fallen oak leaves as a kind of fertilizer. Foliage is very poorly decomposed in compost heap and contain a fair amount of tannins that degrade the quality of the soil. So that, I do not advise you to put them in compost at all .

For every 10 cm layer of leaves I definitely add a layer of garden or turf soil. For what? In order, in addition to the structural composition of the soil, the macro- and microelements contained in it, to add soil microflora to the leaf layer.

Then the next layer- a solution of wood ash is introduced, then again a layer of leaves moistened with water. We cover everything with a five-centimeter layer of mown grass.

The next layer is covered with chopped straw.- for oxygen, hay - for microorganisms, moistened with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate.

The compost pit is covered with sod 20x10 cm stacked tightly together on top of the pile, with the grass facing down. Then I install two vertical tubes to the middle of the pile - for air and moisten the pile, then I take them out and fill the holes.

Pit service

I have two such holes. One is where the components are assembled. Another - where the composition is shoveled. I shovel in about a month after putting all the material in the first pile. This must be done to loosen the compost, and therefore improve aeration, for better mixing of the heap composition.

Therefore, it was necessary to abandon the classic forms of composts and switch to cumulus forms. In addition to other advantages, I consider the main thing for myself convenience and ease (after all, age - the strength is not the same) in the very shoveling. After that, the compost is ready and can be applied to the soil.

Related videos - composting leaves in bags

Everyone knows that the main organs of plants are roots, stems and leaves. And if attention is paid to the first two, then the leaves are not lucky in this regard. They are only said to contain chlorophyll and, in the process of photosynthesis, provide the whole plant with carbohydrates and other nutrients. Well, as for the already fallen tree leaf, in most publications it is believed that it is completely useless and unnecessary, since it does not contain nutrients, and it is not a fertilizer.

This means that an amateur gardener concludes for himself that the fallen leaf should be taken to a landfill, which is what is done in the city. And what will happen to the roots of trees without this protective layer? Are autumn leaves really so useless?

Florists were the first to talk about the use of leaf humus. And it's clear why. The moisture content of the soil increases and its structure and mechanical composition improve. Is this only necessary for flower growers? If you bring leaf litter from the forest, and even take it from your site and simply put it in a heap, it will be stored for a long time without decaying.

Forest litter is another matter. From this, in fact, the desire to prepare leaf humus and compost began.

Readiness of leaf humus determined by appearance and smell (a purely forest smell appears, and not a putrid smell). Such humus can be introduced into the soil as a loosening and fertilizing material. Forest litter prepared as humus, compost, is especially good for clay soil.

How do I prepare this compost component? I water the pile with slurry, a solution of fermented herbs, and feces can also be introduced, as recommended. But the latter is not included for sanitary and hygienic reasons. In such a short period of time, which I take for composting - 8 months, the helminths, if they are there, will not have time to disinfect and will get into the soil. Also, it seems to me, it is necessary to pay attention to the preparation of prefabricated compost, where the conditions are different, and the preparation time too.

We are talking about a fallen leaf, but it is introduced into the compost and from fruit trees and shrubs, only if the leaves are healthy, not damaged by pests and diseases. The affected leaves must be burned or removed from the garden plot further away, where they are disinfected in a natural way.

Otherwise, the leaves of a tree such as aspen stick together in plates and are stored in this form for years. It is best to add birch, linden leaves, which do not need to be crushed. The dry leaf is used not only in compost, but also as a component in the construction of warm beds, where, in a mixture with straw, hay, grass residues, it contributes to the production of heat for plant roots, and also serves as a protective layer from the dank cold soil layer. To do this, I collect dry leaves in dry weather and store them until spring in closed containers. In particular, I keep them in barrels under a canopy and in cans.

A dry leaf is also used by me as a mulching material for the trunks of fruit trees and shrubs, as well as garden beds. Including as a protective layer, which means plant roots from freezing and drying out of the soil. The soil under the leaf is always moderately moist.

Now the autumn period of plant life has come. This year, the first to turn yellow and fall are the leaves of birch, linden, mountain ash and other plants. Further, a massive leaf fall will begin. Dry leaves are used along with dry peat, chopped straw as bedding material with a layer of up to 30 cm, which absorbs liquid well when preparing a site for preparing any compost.

Dry leaves passed my test for suitability as an insulating and at the same time aerosizing material for winter garlic planted in late September - early October. On the ridge with the planted garlic, I pour a layer of 5-10 cm of dry birch leaves and cover it with spruce branches or stalks of raspberries, Jerusalem artichoke - so that they are not blown away by the wind, in winter I add snow by 20-30 cm. There has never been a case when winter garlic, planted to a depth of 8-10 cm, I was frozen. In the spring, when the shelter is removed, it actively grows and gives good large bulbs.

A good result is given by the method of maturation of compost in boxes or compost heaps

Over the years of gardening, I have developed the following technology. Considering the possibility of compost freezing, I cook the latter in shallow pits. laying technology is the same

The depth of the pit is 30 cm, the width is 2.5 m. Experience has shown that the process of decay, fermentation in the pit does not stop even in winter. Now I am already taking care of composting on time. The deadline is in the foreground. And microorganisms, bacteria, earthen fleas, fungi, worms and other living creatures in the soil will figure out for themselves how to deal with this organic matter, plant food. This is noticeable on trial, test beds. Plants grow more vigorously than conventional plants.

So, having provided a five-centimeter bedding layer in the pit, I lay dry leaves of deciduous trees moistened with a solution of nitrate or urea (urea) in layers (except for oak, which do not rot well and contain tannins). For every 10-centimeter layer of leaves, I must add a layer of garden or turf soil. For what? In order, in addition to the structural composition of the soil, the macro- and microelements contained in it, to add soil microflora to the leaf layer.

Next comes the next layer of loose leaves. Here we are already wetting it with slurry, or a solution of fermented grass. You can add a solution of fertile garden soil from your site. Next, the next layer of leaves, which we moisten with a solution of caustic soda.

Caustic soda itself is not a fertilizer, but caustic soda helps in extracting chlorophyll from the leaves. Then the next layer - a solution of wood ash is introduced, then again a layer of leaves moistened with water. We cover everything with a five centimeter layer of mown grass. The next layer is covered with chopped straw - for oxygen, hay - for microorganisms, moistened with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate.

The compost pit is covered with 20 × 10 cm sods, laid tightly to each other on top of the heap, with the grass cover down. Then I install two vertical tubes to the middle of the pile - for air and moisten the pile, then I take them out and fill the holes.

I have two such holes. One is where the components are assembled. Another - where the composition is shoveled. Shoveling is done about a month after all the material has been put into the first pile. This must be done to loosen the compost, and therefore improve aeration, for better mixing of the heap composition.

Therefore, it was necessary to abandon the classic forms of composts and switch to cumulus forms. In addition to other advantages, I consider the main thing for myself convenience and ease (after all, the age - the forces are not the same) in the shoveling itself. After that, the compost is ready and can be applied to the soil.

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