What to plant the first year on the compostive garden. Computer Grokes

This year, the early spring and from the beginning of April we spend a lot of time on the garden - we make warm compost beds. In general, such beds are made throughout the year, even in the winter, and immediately after the snow supply, they are finalized, covered with a film and "rose". Make warm compost beds do it yourself not so hard! Try and you!

Computer bunch or compost beds: What is better?

Not mistaken if I say that almost every garden plot There is a cherished corner, where the gardeners throw out the organic organics - a compost pile. On our site how many years in a row was also such a place.

Our old compost pile

Our compost pile was located a few meters from the house so that it was not so far to run with a perished bucket. Filling a bunch was the "holy duty" of her husband, he was greatly coped with her, that's just the land, which is desirable to spend the organic garbage, was far from the garden, and her husband was reluctant every time he was driving with a wheelbarrow. It is not difficult to imagine what "aroma" stood around our composseki - all the surrounding flies flew to us! In addition, the compost in our heap ripe usually in two years, which for my standards for a long time, and for some reason it turned out. All this did not particularly please me ... The fact that the compost in the garden is necessary, we have not doubted, but how to optimize the process of obtaining it?

Watching how the husband runs every day to a compost pile with a permanent bucket, periodically mixes the compost to the forks to "breathe", and then every spring carries the compost on numerous beds, located throughout the hectare, I will attempt: but how do they cope With all these women who do not have under the side of "male power".

He went to visit his nearest neighbor - a pensioner of Nadezhda Petrovna, who hears in the ark of the Roby Garodnice, always gets a wonderful harvest, manages and plant and plant the garden on the common territory, and alone copes with it. Nadezhda Petrovna told that the whole secret is in high compost beds! Why demolish the whole organicity in one pile, and then from this heap - in beds, when you can immediately bring a bucket on the garden and pour out the earth from the same bed! And really, why?

Having all the "for" and "against", I decided myself, without the help of my husband, to make a compostive bed. It turned out to be quite accessible and did not require great physical effort. Now our hectare has no more compost heap, but a lot of warm compost beds! Fill them up - the same "holy duty" of a husband, but now, when he is lazy to fall asleep the waste of the earth, I am able to do it myself, the benefit that the Earth is that it is, on the same garden!

We turn ordinary garden beds into compost

So, you have ordinary beds where you have grown vegetables. To improve their fertility, we will begin to fertilize the garden of organic waste.

Plants on the compost bed feel great!

Organic waste includes nitrogenous and carbon materials.

Azotista - It is wet (juicy) materials, for example, residues of vegetables, fruits and other food waste, beveled grass and execution of weeds (although they are better to mulch landing), as well as animal dung, bird litter, human feces (for some reason it is this most valuable product Human vital activity is the harder to "accept" as fertilizer to many people).

TO carbonistical Materials include everything dry: hay, straw, paper, cardboard, sawdust, branches, various husks, rags natural materials (Although it is better to collect them separately and apply for mulching), egg shell, tea and coffee welding, and the like.

It is believed that proper compost The optimal ratio of nitrogenous materials to carbon is 1: 4. To this ratio and we will strive for our compost beds.

Not recommended to put in the compost beds undergoing the heat treatment kitchen garbage, bones and animal meat, animal fat and vegetable oil (I, honestly, I don't care much, I put any food waste into the compost - and boiled, and with oil, and we have no meat and bones, we do not have vegetarians). It is still not necessary to put in compost sick plants (especially affected by cabbage kayala and phytoofluoroa), seed heads of weeds, cat and dog faefs, non-agricultural wood, perennial weeds, as well as wool.

Do you practice separate garbage collection?

If you still collect in one garbage bucket all the garbage in the house, and organic, and inorganic, then it's time to get rid of this harmful habit And more consciously approach the garbage collection process. In your kitchen should be at least two buckets! In one, you will throw away the residues of food, cutting paper and cardboard (although we, for example, do not throw paper, and we collect separately on the ground), all dust from the vacuum cleaner are in general everything that can overwhere and turn into a valuable fertilizer. In another bucket, we collect all inorganics - candy, film, plastic, rubber, etc. The next stage of increasing your awareness is a separate collection of inorganic garbage depending on the material from which it is produced (in the ark we are now practicing a separate collection of inorries), But now start at least small - collect the organic to a separate bucket!

Our Shalashik on the improvised dacha

With a smile I remember the time when my husband and I lived in an urban apartment. Kilometers in five from our house was an abandoned cottage village, gradually turning into a swamp. There no one lived there, the land bored with an Ivnyak. My husband cleared the clearing there and grown saplings of chestnuts, which the local park was planted. We organized there and a small grit, built a slush and chose "to earth" almost every week. We had such a kind of cottage there. So, in order to increase soil fertility, we ourselves made compost right in the apartment! Husband on the balcony installed a small barrel into which we demolished all organic waste. So that there was no unpleasant odor on the balcony, the husband brought the tube from the barrel to the street and put a small fan in the barrel. When the compost was ready, in the packages took it to our neckside. This is me to the fact that even in urban conditions really to engage in composting, there would be a desire.

How many compost beds can be done for the season?

But back to our Gerson. Let's calculate how many beds for the season we can make compost. It depends on how much organic waste you get in the process of your life. For example, for the manufacture of one small compost bed, I take two weeks on the site (i.e., during this time, our family of four people gain enough organic waste to cover them a bed of 15-20 cm). If you consider that the beds then have to "dive" the next 3 weeks, it means that if we begin to fill the beds in the waste right now, then by the middle of May we already get the first finished compost bed for disembarking, such as corn seeds. After another 2 weeks, by the end of May, another bed will be ready, where it is possible to plant the seedlings of pumpkin.

Thus, for this spring, I can only make 2 compost beds, which means the rest can be smelted. The third compostive garden can be filling out during June after the harvest of early cultures - radish, salad, is removed from it. Then the garden is freed from the pea. Thus, for the stretch of spring and total summer, it is possible to gradually increase fertility of 5-7 beds.

A few beds are filled in autumn. Since autumn, we definitely prepare the closest beds to the house (as it, I'll tell you a little lower), so that in the winter to make organic waste on them. It turns out that my family for the garden season can provide a compost of about 10 beds. And yours?

Making compost beds do it yourself

So, we chose the first bed and ready to gradually fill it with waste. To do this, from the end of the garden, it is necessary to remove part of the Earth about half the bayonet shovel in a depth and a length of about half a meter. This land can be poured into unnecessary (cracked) vest and remove to store anywhere in the Tenon. In the groin, we get a deepening of garbage and immediately sprinkle it with a small layer of land, which we take from the same bed from the place where our jamb began (conveniently "to settle" a separate shovel immediately, so that every time you don't run after it with a lot of bucket in hand). Thus, when we fill and spray the ground, the first recess is automatically formed by the next recess. So we gradually fill the entire bed and the whole bed. It is not difficult to guess that in order to fall asleep the last deepening with waste, we use the Earth from Vöter, who were waiting for their o'clock in the shine.

After the compost bed is fully refilled, it must be very good to shed a Baikal solution - EM1 (1 Baikal cap on a 10-liter watering can). Per 1 sq. M. Grokery leaks such a solution.

You can cover the compost bed with black spunbond

Then the garden must be well meditated. You can use a straw or hay, cardboard, newspapers, black nonwoven material - spunbond, which you need to fasten well on the garden. In the spring, for better warming up the garden, I additionally cover it with a film, in the summer it is not necessary to use the film. While the first bed "matures" 3-4 weeks, proceed to the manufacture of the following compost bed.

When the garden "matured", sprinkled with her ashes (0.5 l per 1 sq. M), I will pass slightly flat and. Be sure to be mulched, usually freshly acted grass.

If the beds were filled during the summer, and you no longer plan to grow on them this season, then you must inspire them so that weed seeds fall into the soil.

If there is still time until the autumn, you can get a bed with Siderats, but then they do not close them, but leave so far.

Preparation of beds to fill them in winter

Therefore, in the winter, we continue to refuel the beds with an organicaque. But for this you need to prepare a garden from the fall. It is important to choose the closest beds to the house, in winter it is so much snow outlays, far into the garden will not be miserable.

In principle, if there is a ready-made bed with high sideboards that you need to fill, you can not do anything, just to demolish all organic waste in it and sprinkle with snowball. But in the spring there should be a place from where you can take the lands to fall asleep the resulting compost bed with a layer of at least 10 cm. We have a special mountain of fertility (formed when they dug the pond), the husband in spring from there the land brings to such a garden. 2-3 days before the frighting of the earth, it is advisable to walk in bed with a flat-sided, break the frozen kisa organodes, if any remained. And then fall asleep the earth, shed a warm solution Baikal-EM1 and be sure to cover with a film.

If there is no such surplus of the land, then you can neatly remove the top layer of the soil from the bed and fold next. For example, on the banner. And in the spring, when the soil hops, return it to the already refilled bed, shed a solution of Baikal-EM1 and be sure to cover with a film.

This year, instead of Baikal-Em1, we first used the microbiological fertilizer of the radiance-3 - sprinkled with them compost and spilled well with water. I think the effect will be the same as Baikal.

This year we tried to sprinkle a compost bed with microbiological fertilizer shine-3
Then it was well shed a bed with water

Pros and cons of compost beds

I will start S. plus:

1. Make a compostive beds under the power even a woman-pensioner. No need to periodically mix compost and run with a wheelbarrow along the site (especially if the site with hectares).

2. The compost garden is comparatively quickly "matures", especially if you treat it with uh preparations. After 3-4 weeks after laying a bed, it is already ready for operation.

3. The compost bed is a long-playing, it can be used by several seasons in a row, planting plants in the first year, which love to "eat" (pumpkin, corn, cucumbers, etc.), in the second year of the root (carrots, swakes, potatoes), and on Third year legume (beans, peas).

4. In the first year, the compost bed of part-time is both warm, so you can land vegetables even seeds. For example, it grows great on such a garden and matures corn, planted in the middle of May germinated seeds.

5. In the compostive garden, they love to settle worms that help maintain the structure and fertility of the soil.

Now pro minuses:

1. In the spring, when the snow comes off, covered compost beds, which were filled in winter, they look not very aesthetic. Here you have to suffer a little "mess", and as soon as the Earth finds out, just finishing the garden, sprinkling her earth.

2. The second minus concerns settlements where there are no fences. Very love to dig in an unfinished compostive bed of a dog, cautious "yummy". Soroki also eat there, again, until the garden fell asleep.

The use of compost beds is one of the methods. I have been practicing it for several years on my site and is very pleased with the result. I advise you!

Use compost.

Return land nutrients for plantswhat she took - here is the idea compost. Weeds, nutritional waste, paper, leaves - all this is suitable for compost manufacturing. Cooking compost - This is also science.

The decomposition of plant residues is made by microorganisms, most of which are not harmful and even are useful for plants, but, at the same time, they make competition or destroy the microorganisms harmful to plants - causative agents of plant diseases. That's why compost And other organiza Protect the improvement of the soil from causative agents of plant diseases.

There are several ways to use compost, etc. Ornmatics:

1. Compost is prepared in a compost heap and in a ripe form is brought into the furrow and the surface is ridge.
2. The "high" bed is done, where weeds and others are laid. vegetable residues.
3. The "semi-frozen compost" is laid in bed with sides 15-20 cm and the ground is sprinkled.

Advantages of high compost grois

High or raised ridges, with sides or without them there are the following common features: after winter, they quickly warm and exempted from excessive moisture, while the rest of the soil remains cold and excessively overwhelmed. High ridges Westernly necessary for the places overwhelmed in the spring.

Harvested, well aerated soil allows you to give earlier starts of plants. At the same time, the most vulnerable part of plants - their roots, do not suffer from lack of oxygen and low soil temperature. In such conditions, the plants grow rapidly, quickly deep deep root system And it is well opposed to causative agents of diseases and adverse conditions.

In a warm soil high ridge Quickly multiple useful soil microorganisms reduced danger over winter plant diseases. Finally, high ridges, Naked compost or manure, begin to warm up due to the microbial decomposition of the organic, warming and featuring roots of plants.

The disadvantages of high compost

To disadvantages high ridge It should be attributed to the possibility of drying in insufficient and irregular watering.

Compost ridges Cannot ensure balanced nutrition of plants. Therefore, it should be used mineral fertilizers as feeding. You can use mitlaiderovskiy Fleece 1 and 2. In the first year of using a compost ridge, the dose of nitrogen fertilizers in the mixture 2 can be reduced.

Use of compost on the surface of a variety

Using mature compost On the surface of the Girdo is the classic of vegetable growing generally accepted by foreign and domestic vegetables. Mature compost In the mixture of C. full mineral fertilizer Also lay in planting grooves and wells.

Sometimes used semi-armed compost as a mulch on the surface of the beds in combination with essential method. Nice results get in a dry summer when computer mulch Not only feeds, without increasing the concentration of the soil solution to the limits dangerous to plants, but also protects the soil from drying out.

However, the transfer should be respected causative agents of plant diseases On the semi-pressed plant residues, although the high biological activity of the compost suppresses the majority of pathogens of plant diseases - this is the improvement of the organics.

Also, due to the high biological activity of semi-fried compost, seeding in it does not always give positive results. But when using empty method Always get good results.

Space ridges with sidelights 15-20 cm high

Very promising are compost ridges With low sidelights 15-20 cm high, for example, from boards. You can first dig a trench to the depth of the bayonet shovel, sprinkle on the bottom of a small layer of sand 5-7 cm and fill the bed with a semi-fried compost on sides. From above compost It is necessary to pour out the earth. You can not even dig a trench, just fall asleep semi-armed compost Between the side and spray his land. The width of the Girdo can be any: from narrow - 45 cm to significantly wider.

It is convenient to build such a variety to carry out the fall, using semi-armed compost and plant residues of the current year, which accumulated during the season in compost heap (on the compost yard). When laying compost and plant residues, they should be well moistened, it is advisable to use biopreparats type "Cusey" - effective microorganisms (EM) or dung infusion.

When using geometry narrow Mitlaideric Girdo (narrow ridges and wide passages) we have in essence Mitlaiderovsky Ridges on the Organ. It resembles Mitlaider's ridges with a two-layer soil, where the upper layer on the beds between the militant sidelights is 20 cm high with a mixture of sawdust with sand. The difference is only that mitLider method are used mineral fertilizersbecause sawdust contain very little nutrients in an affordable form, and in compost contribute less mineral fertilizer.

Some differences are as follows: The process of decomposition of sawdust in the sawing and sand mixture is mainly on the path of humulation, and the mixture is gradually, in 2-3 seasons turn into loose, rich in relatively stable humus soil. Compost same basically decomposes, settles, humus also formed, but less stable, organiza collapsed, freeing nutrients with significantly higher activity soil microflora. However, with the decomposition of the compost, the forming nutrients are not balanced in composition and quantity (there is often an excess of nitrogen and lack of calcium and magnesium). Therefore, it is necessary corrective making mineral fertilizersWhat requires some experience from gardener. You can use standard Mitlamider subcords When decreasing the share of nitrogen fertilizers for compost beds The first year of use.

The compost layer improves the structure of the soil and protects it from drying into a dry time. In the process of decomposition, both sawdust and compost is distinguished by carbon dioxide - absolutely necessary substance for food plants, especially in greenhouses or greenhouses, where his shortage can be observed.

"Classical" high compost ridge

High compost ridge

Manufacture "High" compost ridge Allows you to wait for the compost maturation, but to use non-dried weeds and vegetable residues. High compost ridge May have flights, or not have them, then vegetables are growing on gentle slopes. It is often enough to dull the trench to the depth of the bayonet shovel and somewhat less than the width of the ridge. If the soil is heavy, clay, then on the bottom of the trench, you should pour a layer of sand, at least 5-10 cm. Then lay on the bottom cut branches of trees and shrubs, raspberries, etc. They are placed on them weeds and others vegetable residuesWell, moisturizes, you can pour the nast of manure or drugs of useful soil microflora, sprinkle with lime or dolomite and full mineral fertilizer (this is necessary), to threaten the land and turn the land back. It turned out a "high" bed. From above, you can plant zucchini, pumpkins, cabbage and other plants requiring good nutrition, and at the edges - plants that need fewer nutrients. In the second - third years you can land root and other plants in the center. Canceled crops are guaranteed 2-3 years. The extra selected land compost land is used for flowing in flower beds, shrubs and rolling trees.

Structure of high compost ridge

If the soil is heavy, clay, then on the bottom of the trench, it is necessary to pour a layer of sand, at least 5-10 cm. Wire mesh at the base of the garden protects plants from voles (rats) and moles. Next, lay a layer of crushed wood, branches, raspberry chips - all trimming from the garden instead of burning it. Used branches not thicker and long with a pencil. The chips are placed on top of them - this forms the air core of the ridge. Next layers of moisturized leaves, plant residues. Each indecomposited layer is desirable to shipping with lime or dolomite and add a handful of full mineral fertilizer.

Next layer - semi-armed compost, and from above - mature compostMixed with garden earth. From above along the ridge, you need to make a groove (or earthy sides) for watering and retention of water. For impregnating watering inside a high compost ridge, at a depth of about 20 cm, you can arrange plastic pipe or hose with holes with a diameter of 3-4 mm.

Sizes of high ridges

The garden is an earthen shaft or a mound of a central height of about 80 cm, which comes from the edges, 1.8 m wide and arbitrary length.

Note

There is practically no need to burn any plant residues: trimming trees and shrubs goes to compost beds, with the exception of thick branches that are used as firewood.

Features of high ridges

* When forming a high garden, it is laid by the remnants of healthy plants. However, in practice, this rule is completely difficult to fully. Therefore, it is possible to do this: do not use compost, the more semi-sided, under the cultures from which it is prepared for 3-4 years. For example, compost from potato tops should not be used under potatoes and tomatoes until it goes 3-4 years and it will disinfect. Similarly come with other plant residues;
* Abundant irrigation - the main condition for obtaining a high harvest on a high bed;
* Unlike compost heap, a high bed should be placed only in a sunny place. All cultures that are recommended for growing on high beds, very light-loving (pumpkins, zucchini, tomato, pepper, colored cabbage and Brussels, white). Otherwise, the loss of crop and excess nitrates can not be able;
* With the decomposition of the organic, heat is highlighted, and the soil on a high bed will be warmer by 5-7 degrees. Therefore, a common practice is to grow on the compost pile of thermo-loving crops.
* In the first year, compost beds contain a lot of nitrogen nutrients, so the first two years is not recommended to grow in a high garden vegetables nitratonactors: salad, spinach, beets, mangold, radishes. Therefore, in the first year, cultures are grown that require enhanced nutrition: cabbage, celery, pumpkin - zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers. However, it should be borne in mind that, say, pumpkin quickly depletes compost. A year later, it is possible to plant plants with average nutrient consumption: endvius, cooked salads, beets. On the third year plants are planted with medium and low nutrient consumption. On the photo on the left shown high compost beds in the second year of use. In mixed culture on it, Kohlrabi, Kochan Salad and Bow are planted.
* In addition to the main crops growing along the midline, on the edges of the ridge, disembarking concomitant cultures with less consumption of nutrients.

A rare garden is done without a compost heap. And where else to fold the grass out of beds? If economic management is conducted by book methods, then either throw it outside the site or prepare from waste.

The happiness of the dacket, as the land turned out to be a virginity, that is, earlier it was not plowed, it was not planted on it. These were waste and inconvenience. Garbage Kamaz was exported, not all tractor drive agreed to plow, fear of iron in depth. But what crops were!

Not everyone gained a new section in the use of a new, more often to him there is not one generation of cabbage grown. But everyone knew everyone (or rather thought that they knew) how to prepare compost, how to use it. The problems with phytosanitary purity were not immediately discovered, because no one had thoughts that had a personally made fertilizer. Who wondered what was happening in a compost box or a heap? No one! This was not written about it in the books.

What is the harm of compost

In the compost, as in the nascular, go processes of rotting. Say that in nature they also have? True, but can it be possible to compare the decomposition of one leaflet and tons of greenery in the compost hole? In nature, there are useful microorganisms that do not give pathogenic to take over. And there are no natural defenders in the compost box.

What is usually put in it? Any garden and kitchen waste. Weed grass, tomato steps, zucchini vacuum, which is usually cleaned with a bed at the end of fruiting due to the fact that the leaves sent.

Spoiled bread with mold smell. Of course, with obvious signs, nobody rotted a specially moldy piece there will not be there. But are our eyes like a microscope and can everyone see with a great magnification? Until the fungry is developing in a piece of bread, you will not notice her, but it will grumble in a pile!

There are methods that consider Suitable for disposter for the seedlings:

1. Shed boiling water.
2. Each in the oven.
3. Heat on a fight or pan.
4. Treat potassium mangartean solution.

Garders do this. And what is obtained in the end:

• humic acids - natural soil fertility, are destroyed at a temperature of + 45 ... + 55 ° C;
• nutrients and soil capillaries are destroyed, useful microorganisms dying;
• pathogenic microorganisms are more stable, especially grinding.

We conclude! The sense of such thermal procedures is so little that you should not register them.

Compost in the usual way: laborious and long

On the preparation of compost in piles, drawers and jamas already written so much that we will dwell on these methods only for a minute. It is easy to write, but it's hard to do.

First, count how much money will be needed for the manufacture of wooden walls, taking into account the rotting of wood. How many years is enough? Will the strength to turn the heavy mass in the drawer? Usually understand that it is difficult, therefore, another box is installed next to the first to simply cross the contents in the second. At the same time, it is necessary to disassemble the boards about half the height, otherwise not everyone will master work. And the compost will hardly prepare, it is hardly a handful, and it is also necessary to dissemble on the bed. From the pit, pull out to grind or throw it into another pit is even harder. And I am a supporter of the minimum consideration and the cost of work time.

Compost Ligger: Learn from Nature

It is possible to make it easy to work if you go to the forest on a tour. Best time End of summer - the beginning of autumn when the mushrooms grow. Where a lot of one long bunch on Earth is located, under the grass lies a tree falling a few years ago. Nobody hid him, I didn't dig a pit for him, - it lay on top and left behind the soil.

In nature, there are mechanisms that regulate the ratio of useful and pathogenic microorganisms, because every year it blooms and green. So the most profitable is to leave all plant waste in place. If you want to make a plot beautiful, it is better to shit them on the bed. This is both protection at the same time. We believe that they have learned from nature to do compost.

How to make compost beds

What is different from the grocery of vegetable garbage from a compost heap? In the compost pile (pit) everything is rotting. And in the garbage bed - no. There are almost natural processes. For the beds, this option looks like this: along the ridge in the middle it is necessary to break the ditch to break through, deep enough to put the whole greens in it, which has already been taped. From above the same flattened the soil, which was removed from the ditch. All, pit compost is ready.

What is the benefit of such a design? There are few plant residues, the processes of rotting will not - they will not have time to play - the rainworms will be carried out and recycle. This will require only one autumn and one winter to obtain not compost in the pit, and the bedding, a complete compost. It is time to sow cappist or plant tomatoes into the ground, and the garden is already waiting for you.

You can make a more time-consuming option. From two neighboring beds to build soil shafts, to add vegetable raw materials between them, slightly melting it with soil. You can put branches, bunks, sawdust, but it is necessary to close their land.

On the side of such rollers, you can grow something, for example, dill or salad. And in the space between them in the spring, sow pumpkins or zucchini, tomatoes will also like. But here heavy earthworks are more different. There is another simple option: you need to build a hollyk from greenery and kitchen waste. How many greenery is, such a height of the holmik will turn out. It may be impressive sizes if the trees have died in winter, and it had to remove trunks and bitch branches. This is "wealth" needs to be laid in the base of the hill. From above - Botato, tomatoes, tomatoes, then pumpkin leaves, sometimes throwing lands for communication, although it is not necessary. It is possible to water and bleat, it is still not to utter to the state of asphalt. The topmost layer is soil.

And immediately sow or plant, but for each root, be sure to cut the flat cutting a widegrass cone to pour the earth. Everything! And compost is preparing, and vegetables are growing.

Humaths for soil improvement

If you do not use manure and humus, new portions of infection do not fall into the garden soil. Soil and herself can health, but it will be needed enough for a long time. Accelerate the process will help - natural compounds that are the essence of the soil.

What are they doing:

• a huge amount of nutrients (in the snow, more than, soil) is unavailable for plants. The humats will all gather together, turn into a form that is available to plants. At the same time, it will also help to choose the desired element from the whole list, get rid of the gardener from the purchase and their introduction into the soil of the beds;
• reduce the acidity of the soil, thereby freeing it from the wireman and the most malicious weeds (horsetail, horse sorrel);
• purify the soil from pathogenic microorganisms;
• retain the useful soil microflora, restore the real team of soil residents;
• do not allow to copy harmful substances in the fruits of plants.

It is important! After all, all the smart books are still saying that the nutrition of plants is mineral, and in fact - carbon-hydrogen-nitrogen. All these substances plants are extracted from the air! Nitrogen helps to receive soil bacteria if they are not killed by mineral fertilizers, manure and compost, mixed on ammonia.

Output: The less work we do, the greater the crop get! Tell me familiar gardens, as you can easily make it easier for cooking for plants and soil compost.

Here are still interesting and useful publications.

Instead of traditional, you can make compost beds.

Benefits

• No need to drag.
• Organic fertilizers are formed directly on the garden.
• The crop matures earlier.
• Plants do not need frequent watering.

Species of compost groes

On the site of ordinary beds

Make them in spring or autumn. You can use beds without fencing, you can - beds-box having a side. The last is convenient for keeping the form. Part of the beds are preparing in the spring, part - in the fall. For the season you can make several pieces.

The hay, straw, remains of fresh vegetables and fruits, beveled grass, weeds (without seed heads), eggs, tea and coffee brew, cardboard, and other organic waste, are put on a free bed. Add land. You can put ash, manure or bird litter. The layer must be 15-20 cm, the bed width is 70-90 cm. The distance between the ridges is better to do large so that the plants do not shadow each other. You can spring two or three beds. Weeks through three compost groke is ready. It is covered, after the appearance of shoots, mulch the beveled grass. Mulch protects the soil from drying, so frequent watering is not required. Cultures are watered under the root. Vintage on such warm beds Ripens before. The ground can not be thrown away, but only to loose with a flat. It is convenient to use arcs on such a bed.

The compost beds can be formed in the fall and leave for ripening for the winter. After harvesting, the layer of organic fertilizer is poured and left until spring. In the first year it is better to use such a bed for planting potatoes. You can land it under the hay or beveled grass. Instead of extracting, salted sawdust or grass.

The compost layer will overweight and settle, so organic fertilizers add during the season. So the fertile compost layer is formed.

Girling in a portable box

The box is pinned from the boards, put on a free space, you can on the untreated part of the site. During the season, formed a warm compost bed. First make drainage (branches, pebbles), then fall asleep the box with organic waste, earth. Gradually fall asleep to the top. You can shed Baikal M-1, cover with spunbond or black film and fasten. When the garden will be ready, the box is cleaned and put on another place. Everyone repeat. So it is possible to master the unprocessed part of the site.

Healthy vegetables from their garden

Girling on the garbage

Crichet can be made on some waste, garbage. During the summer, there are waste, bevelled grass in one place, until a big pile gets. Make large wells, fall asleep the earth. On such a heap in the first year, zucchini and pumpkins are growing perfectly. Between plants the soil mulch. Water with the insistency of herbs, biohumus. Add manure or chicken litter. In the fall, harvest is removed and leave the garden to spring. In the spring it is spilled, give the shape of the usual bed.

Lesson from Galina Kizima.

Year first

In the nearest summer, lay a compost bunch on the site of any vegetable bed or right on the virgin, especially if you have clay soil.

It should be in the sun.

The width of the heap is 80-100 cm., The height should be by the end of summer, too 80-100 cm., But the length is that there should be a future bed or what the material is enough for the bookmark.

It can be covered decorative landingsso that it does not curest eyes.

You will start to fill it from one edge, gradually increasing in length and height.

The next year, you will start to lay a new compost pile, and on the first fall out pumpkin or zucchini.

You can use it and under the cucumbers.

So that the heat and moisture from the heap do not leave, it should be covered with an old film - black or white, however, the spunbond or Loutrasil is not suitable for this purpose.

It is necessary to make it even before the snow came down, otherwise, by the time sowing, a bunch can dry.

Before sowing a film, take a film, make a hole in a pile of approximately with a three-liter jar.

Then fill them with half the fertile soil, bring the AVA powder fraction in each teaspoon, water well and seed seeds.

Then again cover a bunch of film.

As soon as the shoots reached the film, cut the holes in it and release them out.

If there is a danger of frosts, then the plants must be covered on top of Loutrasil.

On this, your work ends. No longer water, nor feed plants required.

Under the film and powerful foliage of pumpkin cultures, the compost comes up for one season.

At the end of the summer, cut a replication of the above-ground part and transfer it to a new compost bunch, which you have folded over the summer.

Leave the remnants of the root system in place. They will be reached by worms.

Year of the second

For the next year, having done additional holes in the film and making the calcium nitrate in each of them for a dessert spoon and half a teaspoon of AVA fertilizer, fall out the seedlings of any cabbage, except Peking and Kohlrabi.

It will be necessary to feed the cabbage in the second half of summer only by trace elements (if you do not install AVA when landing).

It is best to make one - two feeding on the leaves using any of the drugs: "florist" or "unifloor-bud" (4 teaspoons on 10 liters of water).

Watering will have only if it is hot dry weather. Water must be pouring into the holes in the root film, and with very hot weather, it will have to be caught in the morning in the morning in the leaves of cold water from the well.

In the fall, the cabbage leaves and its roots (if there is no kila) should be left on the bed.

Film will have to remove, leaving it only on the sides of the garden.

Year third

The next year, pumpkin cultures will move to a new compost bunch, the cabbage will move to their place, and instead you can put on a bed of the rifled tubers of early potatoes or onions on the river.

Then you can plant beets that you have to pick up a solution with a solution of the cook salt (1 cup on 1 liter of water) for feeding sodium when it has 5-6 leaves.

Beet can be planted and together with cabbage along the edge of the garden. She loves to grow on the edge and friendly with cabbage cultures.

At the ends of the cabbage bed, it is not bad to plant celery.

And the rows of onions can be alternating with rows of carrots. But you can save the bed of carrots after the bow.

Once again I draw your attention to the fact that as soon as you removed the film, only the harvest is removed from the garden, and all other parts of the plant leave on the garden and in the soil.

Moreover, in the fall, the leaves or execution of weeds also pounce.

Fourth year

Another year can be used for salad, dill, parsley. Neither feeding, no watering of these cultures are needed.

Lazy Groancy or crop rotation on a compost pile

Next year in early spring There you can sow radish, and after its cleaning at the beginning of the summer, planting the mustache strawberries.

The strawberries should be ground, which is accepted, that is, it is necessary to land in the middle of the garden beds in one row at a distance of 15-20 m away from each other.

In each well when landing, make an AVA granulated fertilizer on one third of the granulated fertilizer, then you will not need any more feeding for three years.

In order not to deal with the rolling, roll the paper roll of paper on both sides of the strawberries, glued from several layers of newspapers.

When the strawberry gives a mustache, do in the newspaper holes so that they are rooted, and leave them to winter.

In the spring, newspapers will not remain almost not, but there will be no places for the growth of weeds, since the strawberry will take all free space.

Do not do anything with plantation.

It is not necessary to feed and water with the exception of very hot and dry weather in the spring and early summer.

She is enough for her fertilizer for three years, and under a solid canopy from its own leaves it will save moisture in the soil.

I emphasize once again, do not do anything, let the strawberry grows by itself.

Three - four years, the harvest of berries will begin to fall.

When you collect it, then the plants themselves simply squeeze the oblique, and even better Fokin's flattened, drowning into the soil by 2-3 cm.

Leaves leave on the garden and start to put compost into this place.

All this scheme should be applied in the sands.

Only under the compost on the sand it is necessary to store the runneroid or an old film in several layers so that the nutrients do not leave through the sand.

If you have quite acceptable soil, then its fertility will gradually restrict or improve over time, if you are annually at the end of the summer, sessing the released bed with a white mustard and leave all the vegetable remnants after harvesting on it, and not drag them into compost.

Then in the spring, only slightly disappear to the soil at a depth of 5 cm and immediately fall in the garden seeds of cultivated plants.

The crop rotation can be left as on a compost pile, but a little "Bogorodskaya Earth" and a third of the tea spoon of the powder faction of the Fertilizer AVA should be added to the hole.

What is this "Bogorodskaya Earth"? This is a soil saturated with useful microorganisms.

After all, the fertility of the soil is due to the number of microorganisms living in it.

Most of them die in winter in top layer Soil.

Some part, of course, will continue and start multiply, but they will achieve the necessary number only by the end of the season.

If you take a bag of such soil in the fall until frosts and put it in the cellar, then microorganisms will be perfectly preserved and multiplied for the winter.

Especially good to take such soil from the overwhelmed compost.

The soil should be sealing with useful microorganisms, and to systematically be systematically introduced into the surface layer of a non-interrupted organic, in particular, the green mass of bevelled grass or weeds.

The famous gardener Ryabov L.A., I agree with Kizima G., except for one point:

"Instead of mentioned G.Kizim mineral fertilizers, it is much better to breed soil living creatures, for example, watering the garden of the" radiance "um preparations or other useful soil microorganisms

They will give plants everything necessary for growth and abundant fruiting, and the soil will return fertility. "

The techniques and ideas of organic farming persistently mastered the minds of advanced farmers.