How to repair an iron: disassemble, consider typical malfunctions, eliminate them. Disassembling the iron for repair is easy, if you have done it before ... Where is the thermal fuse in the iron bork 1510

If the iron stops heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to work with a screwdriver and a multimeter, you can do it. How to repair the iron with your own hands and we will talk in this article.

General device

Since irons are produced by very different companies, they differ slightly - in shape, heating speed, quality of spare parts, etc. But the overall structure remains the same. Available:

• Sole with heating element built into it. If there is a steamer function, the soleplate has a number of holes for steam to escape.
• A thermostat with a handle that allows you to set the required heating temperature of the sole.
• A container / tank for water that is used for steaming.
• There is a nozzle for spraying water, forced steam. There is also a steam regulator. With its help, the frequency of the automatic supply of evaporated water is set.
• The iron is connected to the network using an electric cord, which is attached to the terminal block located in the back under the plastic cover.

After you have familiarized yourself with what is where, in general terms, you can start repairing the iron with your own hands.

What will be needed for work

For work, you need a set of screwdrivers - cross and flat. You will need a wide knife or an unnecessary plastic card - pry the parts of the iron with snaps. To check the integrity of the parts, you will need a multimeter (). You may also need it if you have to change any spare parts.

All of the tools, but in the process of work sometimes you need electrical tape or heat shrink tubes, you may need sandpaper, pliers.

How to disassemble the iron

The first difficulty faced by those wishing to repair the iron on their own is disassembly. This is far from simple and obvious. The easiest way is to remove the back panel. There are several screws that are visible and which are difficult to unscrew. In addition to screws, there may be latches. So, having unscrewed all the visible fasteners, we pry the cover with the tip of a screwdriver or an old plastic card, separate the cover from the case.

Under it, a terminal block is found to which the cord is attached. If there are problems with the cord, you can not disassemble the iron further. But if everything is fine with the cord, you will have to disassemble it further, and this may cause problems.

In some irons - Philips (Philips), Tefal (Tefal) there are also bolts under the lid. We unscrew them too. In general, if we see fasteners, we remove them.

Removing the back cover is the first thing to do when disassembling the iron

Each manufacturer develops its own design, and it often changes from model to model. Therefore, difficulties arise. But there are several points that are found in almost any manufacturer.

Immediately you need to remove the temperature regulator dial and the steam supply buttons for which you need to hold them in your fingers and pull them up. The buttons may have latches, so you might need something thin to squeeze them out a little - you can pry them off with a screwdriver.

Some irons, such as the Rowenta, as in the photo, have bolts on the handle (found in some Scarlet models). If there are any, we unscrew them. A screw is also hidden under the removed buttons, we also unscrew it. Then remove the top plastic parts. They are usually fastened with latches. To make it easier to remove them, you can put a knife blade or a piece of plastic (plastic card) into the lock.

There are usually some bolts under the covers. Having unscrewed them, we continue disassembling until the body and sole are separated. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give more precise recommendations - there are too different designs. What can be advised - to act slowly and carefully. And a few videos on how to disassemble irons of different brands.

Power cord

Failure of the electrical cord is a fairly common type of breakdown. With such damage, the iron may not turn on at all or work in fits and starts, the sole may not heat well. The cord can bend, curl, the insulation is damaged at the bend, some wires can be frayed completely or partially. If there is such damage, it is better to replace the cord, regardless of whether it is the cause or not. In any case, all places with damaged insulation must be insulated.

In case of any damage, any repair of the iron begins with an inspection of the cord. To accurately determine whether it is normal or not, you need to ring it. To do this, simply remove the back cover. The terminal block will become available, to which the cord is connected. You will need a tester or multimeter. We put it in the dialing mode, we press one probe to one contact of the plug, with the second we touch one of the wires on the block. When touching the "correct" wire, the multimeter should emit a squeak. This means that the wire is intact.

The color of the insulation of the conductors can be any, but yellow-green is necessarily grounding (it must be checked by installing the probe on a small metal plate at the bottom of the plug). The other two are connected to the pins of the plug. Here one of these two wires should ring with the pin to which you pressed the multimeter probe. We repeat the same operation with another pin.

For complete confidence in the serviceability of the cord, you need to wrinkle / twist it during the dialing. Especially in places where there are insulation problems. If the squeak from such actions is interrupted, it is better to replace the cord. It also needs to be replaced if one or both pins do not ring. You may be lucky and you will not need further repairs to the iron.

Checking the performance of the heating element

If the iron does not heat up at all, the heating element may have burnt out. If this is the case, then it is worth buying a new iron, as the replacement will cost almost the same amount. But first of all, you need to make sure that it is the heating element that is to blame.

In order to check the heating element, we get to the very sole of the iron. On it, closer to the back, there are two outputs of the heating element. We transfer the multimeter to the position of resistance measurement (up to 1000 Ohm), we take measurements. If the numbers on the display are of the order of 25o Ohm, then the heating element is normal, if more, it burned out. As already mentioned, if the heating element burns out, it is not worth repairing the iron - it is more profitable to buy a new one.

Checking the thermostat

The thermostat looks like a plate with a group of contacts and a protruding plastic pin, on which the disc is then put on.

Two contacts fit the plate. We install the multimeter probes on them and check the operability (call them). In the "off" position, the sound of the multimeter should disappear; when turned on and turned to any position, it should continue to sound.

The damage may consist in the fact that in the "on" position there is still no contact - then the iron does not heat at all. There may be a different situation - it is not switched off by the regulator and / or does not respond to the position of the regulator. Both reasons are in contacts. And, most likely, they are burnt.

In the first case, carbon deposits can interfere, which can be cleaned off by sticking a piece of sandpaper with a fine grain between the contacts and a couple of times and "sliding" along the contacts. If there is no sandpaper, you can use a nail file, but you must act carefully - the temperature settings depend on the bending of the plates. So you can't bend them too much.

In the second case - if the iron does not turn off - the contacts may have burnt - melted. Repairing the iron in this case consists in trying to separate them. But this trick is rarely successful. The way out is to replace it.

There may be another point: when falling, the contacts could somehow interlock. When the soleplate of the iron heats up, the bending thermoplate presses on contact groups, but the contacts cannot open. The result is the same - the iron does not turn off when heated. Repairing the iron is also similar - we are trying to return mobility to the plates, trying not to bend them. If it doesn't work, we change it.

Checking the fuse

A thermal fuse is installed in approximately the same area as the thermostat. It stands in case of overheating of the sole of the iron - it burns out if the iron heats up to dangerous temperatures. Usually a protective tube is put on this fuse and most often it is white.

Find contacts, call. In the normal state, the fuse "rings", if it is blown out - silence. If desired, you can move the tube, ring it directly - there may be a break / burnout of the connecting wire. If the fuse is blown, you solder it, look for a similar one and install it in place.

It is not worth excluding the thermal fuse from the circuit - it will save you from fire in case of problems with the thermostat: it will simply burn out and the iron will not work. And even though the iron will require repair, your home will be safe.

Steam spray system

If almost no steam comes out of the iron, and there is water in the container, most likely the holes are clogged with salts. You can restore your performance with a simple trick. In a bowl with low sides (a frying pan or baking sheet is suitable), pour water and vinegar (ordinary, table vinegar without dyes). One glass of vinegar per liter of water. The second recipe is for 250 ml of boiling water, 2 teaspoons of citric acid. In the dishes with the prepared liquid, lower the disconnected iron. The liquid should cover the sole.

Put the container with the iron on fire, bring to a boil, turn it off. Wait until it cools down. Warm up again. This can be repeated 3-4 times. Until the salts dissolve.

Sometimes water stops coming out of the spray arm. Most likely, this is due to the fact that the tube is disconnected. In this case, the repair of the iron consists in the fact that it is necessary to disassemble the panel on which the injection buttons are fixed and reinstall all the tubes and wires.

The second way to descale the iron is to disassemble it completely so that only one soleplate remains. Cover the sole with tape so that water does not seep out, but you can also put it in a dish. Pour inside the sole hot water with vinegar or citric acid, stand until cool, drain, pour over again. Continue this way until you are satisfied with the result. Then rinse with water and collect.

In our life, the iron occupies a very important place, it gives our clothes beautiful view, smoothes out all the folds after washing, and, conversely, if it is necessary to specially form arrows, it helps to give our clothes a finished look.

In our life, it happens that our assistant fails, and not all functions work for him, the steamer may work poorly, and what is worse is not to heat at all.

In this article, we will analyze how to repair an iron with your own hands so as not to throw out the old one and not buy a new one. At the moment we operate quite a lot of types of irons: from the simplest to irons with steam generators.

It should be noted that the basic design of these irons is the same. On the market they are presented big amount firms, for example, Philips, Rowenta, Tefal, Bosh, Braun (brown), etc.

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Major iron breakdowns

When the iron works properly, it is, of course, good, but there comes a moment when something goes wrong. Therefore, we will consider the most common breakdowns. These include:

1. Broken wire. This is manifested by the fact that the iron does not heat up, the light does not light up.
2. Damage to the thermostat. The iron works in one position or does not work at all, does not respond to regulator switching, or it heats up all the time without shutting down.
3. Teng burned out. The light is on, but the iron is not heating.
4. Broken steamer. At the same time, garbage is poured, there is no steam, water is pouring and so on.

Getting started with the repair

For repairs, we need a straight and Phillips screwdriver. It is advisable to have on hand a multimeter, a knife,:

1. A wire break is the simplest breakdown of the iron, as a result of which no voltage is applied to the iron and the heating element does not heat. In this case, it is required to determine the location of the cliff. This often happens in places of inflection, mainly at the entrance to the iron.

After determining this breakdown, we open the wire insulation with a knife, strip the wire on both sides and twist it, do not forget to insulate the wires - this will ensure you from electric shock, as well as from a short circuit in the iron.

The design of the thermostat is quite simple. It consists of a bimetallic plate (which, when heated, bends and opens the contacts) and a pair of contacts, all of which can be enclosed in a case. In the cold state, the contacts must be closed, and the resistance of the thermostat must be zero. It is easy to check with a multimeter.

Also, the contacts should easily disperse. If this does not happen, then they are burnt. It is required to disconnect them and clean them with a zero or a small file. If the iron does not obey the regulator, then it is necessary to replace the thermostat, since this is a mechanical breakdown and repair is more expensive and of lower quality than replacing the iron with a new one.

2. Checking the heating element. (TEN - tubular electric heater). Often, if the heating element does not heat, then it is required, first of all, to ring it with a multimeter. A serviceable heating element has a resistance of several tens of Ohms, depending on the power of the iron.

A non-worker will have a resistance equal to infinity. If the heating element burns out, it needs to be replaced, if possible, or the iron will be more efficient at all.

3. If the lamp is on, but the heating element does not work, there may still be a breakdown of the thermal fuse. In this case, its replacement is required. When replacing, it is advisable to take exactly the same or at a higher temperature. It is installed with clamps, since soldering is not effective at this temperature.

4. If the steamer or spray system does not work well, then you need to clean it. To do this, prepare a solution of water and vinegar in a ratio of 1 liter to 200 grams of vinegar. You can also buy special descaling solutions.

Having removed the top bar of the iron, you can see two pumps (the one on the left is for steaming). Examine the pump carefully for any deposits on the pump.

To do this, pour the solution into a wide container, set the iron in this position, with the sole in the water, but so that the water does not get inside. Heat water to a boil, leave to cool, repeat this procedure 3-5 times. Based on experience, it should be enough. The steam or spray button may also not work, in which case it will need to be replaced.

5. Also, the fuse installed in some models of irons may simply blow out. The people suggest simply closing it, but in such cases the iron will work without protection, so it is recommended to replace it with exactly the same one.

Completion of the repair

After replacing all faulty parts, it is recommended to assemble an electrical circuit, and check with a multimeter by connecting the ends of the tester instead of the power cord.

There will be resistance in all positions of the regulator. If the position is disabled, in this position the resistance will be equal to infinity.

Note: when assembling, all wires must be separated from each other, not touching the bare part to the metal.

More serious malfunctions require repair at a household appliance workshop. Please note that sometimes the purchase of a new iron is justified by the cost of repairing it.

From this video You will learn how to repair your iron yourself:

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Do-it-yourself iron repair is a classic of the household genre, but now, unfortunately, the jets of surrealism are becoming stronger in it. A newbie master, in order to disassemble a modern iron, needs to have the skills of solving Chinese puzzles: hidden latches everywhere, clever spike joints, shaped fasteners. Carry to the workshop? The price of repairs may turn out to be such that it is easier to buy a new iron. Let's try to fix our own, without professional training and without having a special tool.

Distracted thinking

Manufacturers justify the transformation of the iron into a kind of combination lock with the requirements of safety, design and ergonomics. But, sorry, from the visible fasteners on the irons, as there were 1-2 screws behind, it remained. Moreover, the details of the bodies of old irons were made of their fragile bakelite and polystyrene, and the current plastics compete with metals in strength.

In fact, we, alas, live in an age of non-eternal things. One of the fundamental attitudes of the consumer society is inexorable: a product of mass demand must work flawlessly (the reputation of the manufacturer, and of course) no more than 2-2.5 warranty periods, and then quickly and irreversibly come into complete disrepair. At leading manufacturers of consumer goods, up to half or more of the design personnel are involved in ensuring that, God forbid, the product does not turn out to be too durable.

How the work of the industry for the trash can affects the environment, and the involvement of really high-class specialists in actually harmful activities on the mass consciousness, is another question, but the iron almost does not lend itself to such attempts: it is too simple, but inside it is too hot and humid. Therefore, damage to the iron at the design stage is reduced mainly to making it difficult to disassemble it outside the service center. Nevertheless, you can still fix the iron at home with improvised means if you know where and what secrets can be hidden in it and how to open them without risking permanently ruining the iron.

Tool

To successfully repair your iron, let's first prepare some homemade tool; it will not take much time and will not require significant expenses:

• 2-4 squeezers for caps;
• squeegee for hidden latches;
• a cheap LED flashlight (namely LED) and a magnifying glass;
• a strip of suede, a nail file, alcohol;
• or, instead of item 4 - pencil eraser, ink eraser, a piece of clean cloth, alcohol.

Note: on the purpose of tools according to PP. 4 and 5 see below.

Squeezers

The squeezer for lids is made from the top, most durable layer of bamboo, the size and thickness of an ice cream stick; one end of it is cut into a wedge. The lids on the body of the irons are often put on latches without fixing. In the service center, such a cover is squeezed with special pliers and removed. To remove it in an artisanal way, the cover must be pry off: the teeth of the latches are chamfered on both sides without fixation and come out of the grooves intact. But to open the covers on tight latches with a table knife or a wide screwdriver, as in Fig. on the right, don't: the steel will leave marks on the plastic. The bending strength of the surface layer of bamboo is higher than that of plastics, and lower in shear. Therefore, the bamboo squeezer will remove the properly pushed lid, but, perhaps, it will wrinkle from the surface without damaging the plastic. If the lid is not hooked up incorrectly and does not give in, the bamboo squeezer will break without damaging the iron. They act with bamboo squeezers in pairs, prying the part from 2 sides.

A good slender squeegee for locking latches comes from a wedge-cut plastic coffee stirrer that vending machines dispense. The squeezer from the mixer goes into any slot and gently removes the mustache of the latches with fixation, without scratching or breaking either them or the body parts.

Flashlight and magnifier

Cheap mini LED flashlights give a very hard light with harsh shadows. In this case, this is an advantage: such light penetrates deeply into thin slits, and under a magnifying glass you can see what the detail is holding there. To do this, first, they pry off the lid, which it is not clear how to remove, with bamboo squeezers, highlight it and examine what it holds there.

How to handle latches

The best thing, of course, is to find a disassembly diagram for the iron of this model, but try it! AND typical schemes Do not look for the location of secret locks either: they may be different for the same model of the same manufacturer. Have you read in the instructions: "The manufacturer reserves the right to make changes to the design that do not affect the performance of the product"? That is, when disassembling the iron, you will most likely have to look for hidden connections yourself.

I must say that Western firms are gradually moving away from the principle: “Do you want to fix it yourself? Well, break it and buy a new one! " But Asians cling to it stubbornly. For example, if your iron is Chinese, then the nose fixing screw (see below) will most likely be not under the filler cap, but ... under the water and steam buttons!

Let's highlight and see. See the green circled in the pic? So, this is not a latch, but a sliding spike in the groove. Latches on the other side of the buttons. To remove the buttons and disassemble the iron, you need:

• Push the button forward.
• Insert the squeegee from the mixer behind it.
• Release the latch.
• Without removing the wringer, lift the button up to the stop. You should hear a faint click of the latch tooth coming out of the slot.
• While holding the button so that it does not fall, remove the wringer.
• While continuing to hold the button, push it forward at an angle so that the slide cleat is twisted out of the slot.
• Do the same with the other button.

Shaped fasteners

The screws in the irons of Western manufacturers are most often either conventional with a Phillips recess or a hexagon. It makes no sense to buy for the latter a special screwdriver with a set of bits for a one-time repair: a screw with a hexagonal slot is simply unscrewed with a flat screwdriver with a thin tip of a suitable width. It can also be used to loosen the trefoil slotted screws, which the Chinese are very fond of (on the right in the figure), but without strong pressure: this creates a significant lateral force and the screw in the thread can simply jam. If the screw sits tight, it is torn off with a series of small jerks by moving the screwdriver to other pairs of slots.

The most difficult thing will be to unscrew the TORXX slotted screw (on the right in the figure): scissors or tweezers will take it only if the screw is loose in the thread. It is most convenient to unscrew the TORXX screws without a special key using small pliers; it is possible with side cutters, but then dents will remain on the jumper of the slot. The screw won't get anything from them, but experienced master, suddenly this iron gets to him, throws it over for repairs for the previous unqualified access.

How the steam iron works

But where to find all these secret cogs? To do this, you first need to get acquainted with the device of a modern iron with a steam generator (steamer). Its general scheme is shown in Fig.:

The shock steaming system (superheated steam) is installed only in certain models, because it is only effective when the thermostat is close to the maximum (three points). In good irons with shock steam, the shock pump is blocked if the regulator is set at 1-2 points. What is always written in the instructions, how, pray tell, a normal housewife reads the instructions for the iron? That is, if there is no steam boost, then, perhaps, to eliminate the "malfunction" you just need to turn the temperature regulator.

The positional protection module turns off the heating element if the position of the soleplate of the iron differs from the horizontal position: it was placed upright, dropped, etc. This is perhaps the only electronic innovation in irons. In high-quality irons, positional protection is the second most frequent source of breakdowns (after scale in the steamer, see at the end), but at home it is most often quite maintainable.

How the Chinese soar

If you look at the sole of not even cheap Chinese irons, it turns out that many of the drip humidification nozzles are fake, fake. In fact, when fully heated, a steam boost is obtained if you press the steam button; in the same position of the thermostat, soft steam comes from the button with droplets, and for drip humidification, in this case, you need to press both buttons at once.

Wiring diagram

The wiring diagram of the iron is shown on the next page. rice.:

The KM relay and the SK position transmitter constitute the position protection. On its own board, there may be a power indicator, which in this case is LED, and not on the neon. Positional protection can be turned off without prejudice to the consumer qualities of the iron, but if the indicator is LED, then when the “positioning” is completely turned off, it will stop working. This is inconvenient, therefore, the faulty positional protection must be partially disconnected (see below).

The numbers with indices show the sequence of dialing the "hot" and "cold" circuits with a multimeter: one probe with a crocodile clip is connected to the mains plug pin, and the others go along the points. Both dials should converge on the contacts of the KM relay. The fact is that the KM contacts are normally open: when the iron is connected to the network and the contacts of the KM thermostat are closed, it pulls, its contacts are closed and current flows through them to the heating element. So it is necessary that any malfunction of the positional protection itself turns off the heating element (the principle of redundant safety), but this circumstance can be misleading for an inexperienced master.

Note: when dialing, it may turn out that the non-contact is in the connecting cap, see fig. on right. The only way out is to bite off it and reseal the wires in a new one.

Thermal protection

A thermal fuse (thermal) is triggered if the temperature of the sole of the iron exceeds 240 degrees or the current through the heating element is a certain set value. That is, the thermal fuse, instead of the unusable one, must also be selected by current, depending on the power of the iron:

• 2200 W - 25 A.
• 1500 W - 16 A.
• 1000 W - 10 A.
• 600 W - 6.3 A.

Excessive thermal current is needed, because 220 V is the effective (effective) value of the mains voltage; the amplitude is 220 V x 1.4 = 308 V. The half-cycle duration of the 50 Hz frequency is 10 ms, and the thermal response time is 4-5 ms. Suddenly the mains voltage will jump to the maximum permissible value of 245 V, the thermal fuse for the operating current of the heating element can burn out in a perfectly working iron.

Thermal fuses are disposable (pos. 1 in the figure), recoverable, pos. 2, and self-healing, pos. 3. The first ones burn out and must be installed in a dielectric heat-resistant sleeve (usually made of fiberglass), otherwise a breakdown of the mains voltage to the sole is very likely. In a recoverable thermal fuse, the prestressed bimetallic plate "flips" and opens the contacts. To restore it, you need to squeeze something sharp through the window in the contact until it clicks back. The self-healing thermal protection will return to its original state if the iron is unplugged and allowed to cool completely. Self-healing thermals are structurally combined with a thermostat (see below) and are always supplemented with a current fuse.

Thermostat

The soleplate temperature regulator is the most important unit of the iron and one of the most prone to breakage; it is a mechanical trigger device driven by a bimetallic plate. There are no "magnets like in the refrigerator regulator" in the iron's thermostat. As in the thermostat of the refrigerator, there is also a mechanical trigger, only of a different design. Its principle of operation is simple:

1. A part with a movable contact is pressed against a fixed changeover spring. The contacts are closed, the heating element is heating. The compression ratio of the spring is adjusted with the temperature setting knob.
2. On the other hand, the movable contact is connected by a dielectric pusher rod to a bimetallic plate.
3. The bimetallic plate, bending from heating, presses through the rod on the movable contact until it overpowers the spring.
4. The spring throws over and opens the contacts.
5. The heating element turns off, the sole of the iron with a bimetallic plate cools down.
6. The bimetallic plate is straightened. When its pressure is sufficiently weakened, the spring is thrown back and returns the regulator to its original state.

The heating element heats up again, the cycle repeats. In old irons and some new ones, the thermostat is assembled according to the scheme with a free rocker (item 1 in the figure):

Its disadvantages are 2 pairs of contacts prone to sticking, and a large hysteresis, i.e. the difference between the response and return temperatures of the regulator. Therefore, regulators with a free rocker always have an adjusting screw under the handle, which is twisted if the iron heats up too much (twist 1-2 turns) or weak (twist the same). The temperature adjustment knob must be removed to access the calibration screw. It sits on the axis under friction, but is held in the body by paws with stops, see fig. on right. To remove the handle, it must be turned at least until it stops (beyond the first point) and pulled up.

Most modern irons are equipped with a unified double spring-loaded thermostat, pos. 2: it responds very clearly and almost never requires readjustment during operation. Its weak points, firstly, as in the previous. case, contacts, see below. Secondly, there is a ceramic rod (marked in blue), which sometimes cracks. The stem length is 8 mm, and a new one can be made from an MLT-0.5 W resistor, pos. 2a. The resistor leads are bitten off to a length of 1.5-2 mm, the paint is washed off with dichloroethane or a surfactant remover, the conductive layer is cleaned with sandpaper. If the resistance of the resistor is more than 620-680 kOhm, someone puts it instead of the rod as it is, the paint burns without smoke and stench. However, then the soleplate of the iron can be unpleasantly "pinched" by electricity. And what is much worse, the resistance of a resistor with an unprotected conductive layer can decrease several times, and the leakage current through it can rise to a dangerous value.

Note 3: sometimes washers-inserts crack in thermostats. A new one can be turned from fluoroplastic instead; for drawing see pos. 2b.

How to clean contacts

It is not necessary to clean the burnt contacts of the iron temperature regulator with sandpaper, as advised in many sources: they work under high current and after cleaning with sandpaper they quickly burn again. In the regulators of modern irons, the contacts are thin-walled stamped, and in this case they burn out to holes. To clean the contacts, you need to wrap the nail file along the suede soaked with alcohol, stick it between the contacts and rub until the suede stops getting very dirty with carbon. An alternative is to cut a thin wedge out of an ink eraser and clean the contacts with it. Then - with the same wedge from a pencil eraser. Finally, wrap the nail file with a rag moistened with alcohol instead of suede and remove the adhering particles of the eraser from the contacts.

Note: due to the thermostat, such a situation is also possible - the iron heats up at maximum regardless of the position of the temperature setting knob; adjusting the calibration screw does not help. This means that the contacts of the regulator are welded and it needs to be changed.

How to get there?

All this is good, but our iron has not been disassembled yet. In general, the disassembly of the iron is done next. way:

• Remove the temperature setting knob.
• Remove the back cover (possibly together with the top one).
• Remove the terminal block.
• Remove the top cover.
• Remove the case.
• Remove the thermostat cover (if any).

After that, all the units of the iron become available for inspection and repair. Of course, each stage has its own subtleties and peculiarities. We will consider some further not examples of models of individual manufacturers, but for now let's dwell on general "troubles".

Back cover

This is the only part that is secured with an externally visible screw (s). The latter may be 2 at the bottom. In this case, 2 options are possible: the back cover is at one with the top and separately. In the first case, the iron handle will be straight, and both covers are immediately pulled back, pushing the upper one with your fingers: it sits with horizontal spikes in the longitudinal grooves.

If the covers are separate and the back cover is on one or 2 screws, then again 2 cases are possible: the back cover is flush with the body and overlay. In the first case, the lid is pulled by the bottom towards itself - at the top it is fixed with spikes in the grooves, which will turn out and the lid will come out. The second case concerns almost exclusively covers with one screw in the middle. If the cover, after unscrewing the screw, does not come out and does not stretch beyond the bottom, then the spikes with the grooves are double, at the top and bottom. Then the cover must be pushed upward to release the lower spikes, and then pull the bottom so that the upper ones are twisted out of the grooves.

Block

After removing the back cover, the terminal block will be visible, this is already a hotbed of malfunctions. In some irons (not necessarily cheap), the terminal block is ordinary screw (item 1 in the figure), it can melt, then you need to change it to propylene one. Polyethylene and PVC will not withstand in the iron!

Blocks with captive terminals (pos. 2) are most reliable, but for further disassembly of the iron, the terminals must be removed. To do this, their lugs-retainers are squeezed out through the holes in the contacts with an awl or a thin screwdriver.

To remove the one-piece socket block (pos. 3), you need to unscrew the 2 screws of the power cord clamp and 2 screws holding the socket itself. If the network wires do not ring on the acc. sockets of the block (green arrows at pos. 4), the block must be changed or plug-in terminals must be put on the wires, because the wires in the cut-in block cannot be repaired.

Top cover

The curved top cover is secured by tight latches without locking. At home, it is removed with a pair of wringers (see above), starting, as a rule, from the rear end. Doesn't work - you need to try from the front.

Positional protection

Most irons have a positional protection module under the top cover. The most vulnerable in it is the position sensor. As a rule, this is a plastic box (red arrows in the figure) only with a pair of leads. The position sensor is either closed with a tight-fitting lid, or it is filled with a compound on top, which can be picked out.

A malfunction of the position sensor is typical: the iron does not turn on, and if you shake it, it can turn on for a while and then turn off spontaneously. When disassembling the sensor, it is revealed that there is a pair of contacts inside and a metal roller covered with something viscous and dirty. Initially, the sensor was filled with a clean and transparent silicone grease, but the coil current of the powerful relay is sufficient to cause sparking of the contacts. The filling becomes dirty with carbon deposits, the roller does not close the contacts well and does not move as it should.

The unusable silicone is removed with table vinegar, but you cannot leave the roller dry: during ironing, the relay will “clap” all the time, the iron will heat up unpredictably, and the sensor will soon fail completely. Instead of silicone, the sensor must be filled with any liquid machine oil; By the way, it is more resistant to pollution and better dampens sparks than silicone. The sensor is washed with alcohol, a needle from a medical syringe is put on the nozzle of the oiler and the sensor is filled carefully so that the oil does not flow onto the walls. After filling, the lid is glued back with "Titanium" or other superglue, but if the walls are oiled, then the glue will not hold.

Note: in irons Brown and some. other signals from the position sensor are processed by the microcircuit (upper position in the figure). In this case, it is permissible to leave the position sensor roller dry.

Other possible malfunction- burnt contacts or a burnt relay coil, then the iron will not turn on at all. To check the module, you need to remove it from the iron and apply its operating voltage, DC or AC, to the relay coil, which is indicated on the relay case (green arrows). A click should be heard, and the tester should show that the contacts are closed. No - the relay needs to be changed.

Note: if you are not sure that the winding voltage is indicated on the relay, you need to measure its resistance. Suddenly, the winding current at the specified voltage turns out to be more than 80-100 mA, it cannot be applied to the winding. You need to check the relay from a regulated power supply. Typically, the operating voltage of the winding does not exceed 24 V.

It is quite possible to do without positional protection. To partially turn it off (for the heating element indicator to work), you need to evaporate the white wire and connect it to the brown one, or evaporate the red one and connect it to the blue one. At the same time, the relay can click and rattle, so it is better to evaporate it too.

Frame

After removing the back cover and the terminal block, the spikes holding the body in the grooves (lower position in the figure on the right) or screws will appear, but do not rush: the body holds another screw or two in the area of ​​the iron spout. It has already been said how the Chinese hide them, but in other irons they are on the spout under the filler cap. It remains in place after removing the top cover. To remove the neck cover, you need to lift the filler flap and remove the cover with it with squeezers, then the nose screws will be visible (upper pos.)

The iron body is removed together with the pumps, and their malfunctions become visible, from which either there is no steam, or water flows into the body, the iron cracks, sparks, shocks: cracked pipes, nozzles and valves (nipples) clogged with salt deposits. It is not worth glueing the tubes, in the iron there is any glue that makes a dead poultice. First, you need to descale the hydraulic system. For plastic, this is done mechanically, with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol. The nipples are washed with a citric acid solution (1 tsp per glass of water). Acetic acid solution (vinegar) emits chemically aggressive vapors that corrode metal. Then the fragments of the cracked tubes are put together, pieces of a heat-shrinkable tube (HERE, heat-shrink) are put on them and heated with a household hairdryer.

What's wrong with anyone

Tefal

The repair of the Tefal iron is distinguished by its originality. First, the body can be removed together with the top cover. Second, the nose screw is hidden under the cover of the water dispenser (left and center in the figure); it is visible through translucent plastic. Third, to get to the pumps, you need to remove the top cover already at removed case... Its screw is hidden under the buttons (on the right in the figure), and it must be unscrewed in order to remove the cover.

Finally, Tefal is the leader in cordless irons. They are of several types: with contacts on the site, with a thermal accumulating sole, with a rejected (shoot back) cord. The first two are unsuitable for amateur repair, and the last, seemingly faulty, may turn out to be quite working.

The cord from the iron throws a pusher, acting from a separate trigger mechanism with its own bimetallic plate. That is, if, for example, you ironed the cuffs and want to warm up the iron by inserting the cord, but it does not fit, then the iron has not cooled down enough. You need to let it cool down, insert the cord, turn the regulator to a higher temperature and wait until the cord bounces off. It is inconvenient, of course, that is why irons with a detachable cord are not in great demand.

Phillips

A feature of Philips irons is a double body. For example, the popular Azur is first dealt with in the usual sequence, pos. And in the figure, but the rear cover is fastened with 2 screws from the bottom. Under the decorative case with pumps, there is an inner one with protection (pos. B), and already under it - a massive sole (in fact, the third case) with a thermostat and a thermal, pos. V.

Bosch

The design of Bosch irons can be considered typical, and Bosch disassembly is even easier than others: the back cover is on one screw and without tricky fasteners. To remove it, you need to unscrew the screw, pull back on the power cord inlet hose (see the figure on the right), the cover will open with the hinge, after which further disassembly has no peculiarities.

Brown

A congenital defect of inexpensive Brown irons is a thin-walled steam generator tank made of galvanized steel and fastening the thermostat casing with bendable paws from it. Both rust perfectly, see fig. on the right, after which repairing the iron becomes meaningless.

How to make steam

The same congenital defect of all steam irons without exception is scale. It is difficult to remove it from the non-separable reservoir of the steam generator, and in no case should the iron be boiled in a pan with vinegar for this, as in Fig. Vapors of acetic acid will make plastics brittle, corrode nickel on the sole to a roughness, and if it is coated with Teflon, it will begin to flake off. First, the iron for cleaning must be disassembled to the sole, see eg. video how to clean Philips 3240:

Video: example of disassembling and cleaning the Philips iron 3240

Secondly, as already mentioned, it is better to use not vinegar, but a solution of citric acid. Thirdly, before cleaning, the contacts of the heating element together in ceramic bushings must be tightly wrapped with good soft electrical tape in 3-4 layers or, better, with heat-shrinkable tape. Fourthly, if the nozzles are clogged with scale, also pierce with a toothpick before cleaning. And fifth, after cleaning, rinse the sole hydraulic system abundantly with clean water from top to bottom, pouring it into the steam generator tank. Then you can be calm: the iron will serve after cleaning as well as before.

3 assessments, average: 5,00 out of 5)

Irons, as household appliances, have appeared for a long time. They were bulky, heavy, and awkward to use. The advantage of these devices was their "indestructibility" due to the simplicity of the design. They became unusable only when a hot coal burned through their metal bottom.

Nowadays, an iron is a high-tech device, consisting of several units that have precise settings and work well-coordinated.

Rice. 1. Repaired iron

When all this is violated, the device jumps and eventually fails. This happens for various reasons. Improper use, dropping the appliance, using chlorinated water for the steam generator and much more. As a result, such desired device turns into a useless piece of plastic and metal.

What to do if your favorite device stops heating up? The main thing is not to panic, but to try to return the iron to its working capacity. The cause of the malfunction is often minor and easily remedied.

Below, the article will describe how to troubleshoot an electric iron and how to fix it and repair it yourself.

Of the tools, you only need a Phillips screwdriver, a multimeter or ohmmeter, and small pliers called "ducklings".

Although this iron does not have a steam generator, it electrical circuit and the design is practically no different from the first. Therefore, the method for diagnosing and repairing the electrical part is identical for them.

In photo 2, a device that does not heat up when you plug it in and turn the thermostat wheel.

Rice. 2. We rotate the regulator, and the iron does not heat up

The mains voltage is present, visually the cord and plug have no visible damage.

Judging by the tag (Figure 3), the power of the device is 1000 W. This is not a big indicator, since there are copies with a power of up to 2500 watts. The more watts the iron consumes, the faster it heats up, but more current flows through its circuits and contacts. Therefore, such devices are more often subject to conditions under which they fail.

Rice. 3. Specifications

As with many irons, you should start by removing the back cover (Figure 4). It is held in place by a single screw located exactly in the middle of the cover.

Rice. 4. Remove the back cover

Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew this screw.

After the screw is unscrewed, the cover can be freely removed and the incoming electrical circuits of the iron can be seen.

Rice. 5. Electric circuits of the iron

For ease of installation, there is a terminal block inside (Figure 6), to which the incoming cable comes. On the other side of the terminal block, the wires go deeper into the device.

With a high power of the iron in this place, wires can burn out or the terminal block body melts. The fact is that this method of clamping with screws is not entirely reliable, since over time the connection heats up and the screw looses.

In this case, the connection heats up even more and, as a result, the wire burns out. And this place is often a weak link in the electrical circuit of the device.

Rice. 6. Terminal block

But everything looks great in the photo. No hints of heating and even less a wire break. This is most likely due to the low power of the heater.

But in order to make it convenient to disassemble in the future, it is necessary to remove the cord clamp, which is held by two screws.

Rice. 7.remove the upper part of the iron body

Using the same Phillips screwdriver, unscrew one screw and loosen the other.

When the cord is free, pull it out and unscrew the screws of the case.

Rice. 8.Unscrew the screws of the case

Now we go to the front. Both screws in this place are under the water container. This is a common spray bottle for irrigating clothes before ironing.

Rice. 9. Press the release button

To remove it, press the release button (Figure 9), and take out the atomizer itself. Next, we take out the container for water.

Rice. 10. We take out the spray
Rice. 11. Water container

Under it are two screws that fasten the body to the sole of the iron. We unscrew one and then the second screws.

Rice. 12. Unscrew the 2 screws

After these manipulations, the top cover can be easily removed.

Rice. 13. Remove the top cover

All that remains is the sole with the protective cover and electrical circuits.

Rice. 14. Iron sole

Photo 15 shows that the indicator lamp is moving away from the terminal block.

Rice. 15. Indicator light

It should signal the operation of the iron when the mains voltage is applied directly to the heater.

In the center is the thermostat slider (Figure 16) with an oblique guiding cut. This cut is required to dock the regulator wheel on the top cover with the temperature sensor slider.

Rice. 16. Thermostat engine

We take out the neon lamp from the seat (Figure 17) and unscrew the three fastening screws protective cover soles (Figure 18).

Further, it is necessary to disconnect the wires going under the casing, otherwise they will interfere. The wires, both incoming and outgoing, have the appropriate color, so there is no need to mark them before disconnecting.

Rice. 17. We take out the light bulb
Rice. 18. Unscrew the 3 fastening screws

But before that, we check if the problem is in the cord. To do this, we connect the leads of a device capable of testing the circuit with blue and brown wires (Figure 19). These colors correspond to the phase and zero of the 220 V network. We turn the thermostat engine first in one direction and then in the other direction.

The device does not show anything, which means that the break is located further under the protective casing.

Rice. 19. Looking for an open circuit

In turn, unscrew all the wire clamps.

Rice. 20. Unscrew the rest of the wire clamps

Having taken out the wires from the clamps, carefully remove the protective casing.

Rice. 21. Remove the protective cover

We put it to the side and again take the chain pointer. We connect its ends with the terminals of the heater or heating element. The device shows that the heating element is intact, and this is good news, since it is pressed into the sole of the iron.

Rice. 22. Checking the heating element

Only the temperature regulator remains.

A brown wire comes to one of its conclusions, which goes directly from the network. Having connected the device with this output of the temperature sensor (Figure 23), as well as with the white wire that goes to its second contact, we rotate the regulator again.

Rice. 23. Checking the thermostat

Nothing happens, which means that the thermostat is defective.

What can be done in this case? The simplest thing is to replace the regulator. But finding the same one will most likely be problematic, especially a worker.

Some people short-circuit the temperature sensor with a piece of wire, thus removing it from the circuit.

But this is not an option, since at best, if the iron overheats, it can burn delicate fabric. And at worst, the whole apartment or house, if you accidentally leave it plugged in. Therefore, direct connection is not an option.

What then can be done? Just readjust the bimetallic plate of the thermostat. If you look closely, you will notice that the thermostat contacts are open in any position of the regulator knob.

But if you press your finger on the bimetallic plate, the contacts will close at some point. So you need to bend the plate a little and everything should work.

We take the "ducklings" and grabbing the bimetal plate with them, slightly rotate it counterclockwise (Figure 24 and 25).

Rice. 24. Rotate the bimetal plate
Rice. 25.

This should be done as carefully as possible and in the middle position of the thermostat engine. At some point, a click will be heard, and the contacts will close.

We make measurements after revision (Figure 26). It can be seen that the contact part of the temperature sensor is closed.

Rice. 26. Measurements after revision

Now we put the wires into the hole in the casing and stretch them with our fingers from the other side. We also lay out the wires carefully. We put on the upper part of the case and tighten the screws that secure it.

It is very important that when connecting the body to the sole (Figure 31), the axis of the regulator wheel fits exactly into the cut on the thermostat slider.

To check if these two parts are connected correctly, you need to turn the adjuster wheel in different directions. If it is fixed in two directions, then everything is connected correctly and you can continue the assembly.

Rice. 31. We connect the body with the sole

We fix the case with screws and put the container with the spray bottle.

Rice. 34. Put back the back cover

We turn on the iron and turn the wheel.

Photo 35 shows that the iron has turned on and is heating up.

Rice. 35. The iron is running

At some point, he turned off himself, having typed the desired temperature.

Turn the wheel to maximum, and it turns on again. We can assume that the regulator is working correctly and will not fail at the right moment. At this, the repair can be considered completed.

It should be remembered that all work must be done with the device disconnected from the network.

Bosch rarely puts simple models on the market. Almost all devices are paired and many are wireless. The products of this manufacturer are very common and are mainly distinguished by excellent quality. But everything has its own expiration date, so some users after a while ask the question: how to repair a Bosch iron with their own hands? To answer this question, you need to go into some interesting details and figure it out. This is what we will do in this article.

What is an iron?

What is it? Even if we start to consider old models, we can distinguish the following components:

1. Housing with built-in regulator.
2. Base (sole).
3. Spiral element.
4. Electrical diagrams and connections.

The classic device has two removable parts - the sole and the back wall.

Where is the problem? The main faults are also connected with the device cable. To determine such a problem, you need to use a multimeter.

1. Container for liquid.
2. Sprinkler of this very liquid.

Reservoir in different models can be located in different places. The second component is located on the “nose” of the iron. The principle of operation of the device is as follows:

1. The sole reaches a certain temperature.
2. There is an automatic water supply.
3. The water turns into steam and is thrown in by pressing a special key.

Basic problems

Newer models of irons can have a large number of components, but as we figured out, each of them will have four familiar parts. The most common malfunctions just relate to these components:

1. The outsole refuses to heat up. The device may need urgent repair of the fuse or thermostat. The former may suffer from rupture in the contacts, while the latter may oxidize.
2. The device does not turn on. As mentioned above, there are many problems with the power cable. But do not forget about the thermostat, which will not go far with clogged holes - you cannot do without cleaning.
3. The temperature regulator is out of order, which interferes with changing the operating modes.

Disassembly

How to disassemble a Bosch iron? In order to understand what to do next, you need to learn how to disassemble the device:

1. Find the screw on back wall, unscrew it and remove the cover.
2. Search the enclosure for hidden locks or protrusions. If there are any, then gently pry them off with a sharp object.
3. Unscrew the remaining screws and remove the container.
4. After dismantling the tank, inspect everything internal structure device.
5. Unscrew a few screws on the protective cover and access the wiring diagram.

Carrying out repairs

How to repair a Bosch iron? In most cases, getting rid of the “contaminants” is sufficient.

Cleaning:

• After disassembling the device, it is necessary to remove the sole, blow it with a vacuum cleaner and clean it with a small brush in order to remove dust and fine debris.
• Next, you need to place the component in a bowl with water and vinegar or citric acid.

• Put right along with the container on the fire, heat the bowl and boil the sole for five minutes. Repeat this procedure 3-5 times.

Important! You can use instead of water and vinegar special tool against scale, intended for pots and kettles. After the performed manipulations, the device is left for drying and waits for verification within a day.

It will be much more difficult to get rid of limescale if the device is operated with steam. Here, most likely, the problem is that the holes for condensation are clogged.

Experts give the following advice:

• Use a cotton swab. Slide it into the holes and make a few forward movements. You can also soak it in an alcohol solution.
• Sprinkle salt on a cotton cloth and iron with an iron.

Important! This proven method quickly recovers the stainless steel sole.

• If the work does not go well with the ceramic or Teflon element, immediately go to the service center. this work any workshop can handle.
• If a thermostat, fuse or other component is out of order, then try to clean them of oxidized compounds with alcohol.

Components

What should I do if the components of the device do not demonstrate their former performance? Try the following:

• Check the power cable. If the wire is broken, we recommend that you find a replacement.
• Remove all wires after disassembly. Check the operation of the thermostat by twisting it several times in different directions. If a click is triggered in the extreme position, the problem is not in it.
• If there is no click, short-circuit the conductors so that the device stops turning off. You can also find a replacement for the old component.

Important! The first method is much faster and more economical, but the second will bring more reliability.

• Use the most common soldering iron to solder the part. This tool is useful for assembling a new element.

Video

Repairing an iron at home is an extremely useful skill, since everyone has such devices at home. Do not rush to throw away the equipment if it refuses to work, because some problems are solved very quickly.