How to level the ceiling correctly. How to properly mark the ceiling under the drywall frame? Determining the Height at Which Marks Should Be Made

One of the most time-consuming jobs during renovations is leveling the ceiling. Many apartment and house owners strive to do everything with their own hands, so they should know how professionals cope with this task. With step-by-step instructions, it's easy to get the job done as efficiently as possible.

Choosing a way to level the ceiling

dry;
wet.

Each of them has its own pros and cons. You need to choose a technique depending on the condition of the surface of the upper floor and the capabilities of the room. With the dry method, suspended structures are used that tightly cover the rough ceiling.

The advantages of the method include:

durability;
aesthetic appeal;
the possibility of arranging spot lighting and hiding various communications under the hinged structure.

But there are also disadvantages - so, the suspended structure:

reduces the height of the ceiling;
requires the purchase of expensive materials (metal profiles, gypsum plasterboard).

The wet method of leveling the ceiling consists in applying a plaster (cement-sand, gypsum, lime) mixture, with the help of which the height differences are leveled. The complexity of both methods is approximately the same. Choose the one that is most convenient in a particular case.

But it should be understood that it is not an easy task to properly level the ceiling with the help of plaster mixes. For those who have never held a spatula in their hands, it is better to consider the second option, that is, the dry method. It is difficult to prepare the ceiling for further finishing using plaster. Beginners in this business will need strong nerves and physical endurance.

Determination of the height difference

Of considerable importance in choosing a method for leveling the ceiling is the magnitude of the difference in its heights. To find out this indicator, a laser or water level is used. If these tools are not available, a regular bubble level will work.

First of all, they measure the height of the corners of the room and determine which one is the lowest. From this angle to the opposite, pull the thread, making sure that it is located strictly horizontally. Thus, they find out how much one part of the ceiling is lower than the other.

False ceiling prices

suspended ceiling

Advice! In order not to look for the lower corner in the room, you can mark the level of the future ceiling from the threshold, it is most convenient to do this with the help, again, laser level... The markup is performed as shown in the image below.

Installing beacons

If the height difference is more than 2 cm, it is necessary to determine the boundaries of the new flat ceiling. For this purpose, markings are applied to the walls using chalk laces, and then follow the instructions.

Determine the lowest point of the ceiling.

In each of the corners, marks are made corresponding to this value.

Pull the lace between these points and beat off the lines along the walls.

Parallel lines are drawn on the ceiling, or they simply mark the beginning and end of each profile (in order to reduce the consumption of the plaster mixture, they try to lay a profile in the places of recesses and protrusions).

Self-tapping screws are screwed in according to the markings.

It will be convenient if we immediately write the lengths of the beacons on the ceiling, so that later we do not climb and measure them again.

Pull a fishing line or a strong thread between them.

The next step is to install beacon profiles. You can choose any: metal or plastic. Profiles stretch from one wall to the opposite, focusing on the markings. The correct setting is checked with a long bubble level.

Each beacon is attached to the ceiling by being embedded in the plaster mixture, which is dotted onto the floor surface. The optimal step between the profiles is 20 cm. The correctness of the installation of the beacons is also checked using a special tool - the rules.

Ceiling profile prices

ceiling profile

Take a break from work for 5-6 hours. During this time, the plaster mixture will dry well. it important point that cannot be ignored. Otherwise, when leveling the ceiling, you can accidentally knock down the beacons and the work on their installation will have to start anew.

Criteria for choosing a plaster mixture

Three types of compositions are suitable for leveling the ceiling:

cement based;
gypsum;
calcareous.

Cement is an ordinary cement-sand mixture, which includes special additives that provide elasticity (plasticizers). This type of plaster is versatile, as it is suitable for finishing any premises. Due to its moisture resistance, it is successfully used for leveling surfaces in baths, saunas, and bathrooms. The disadvantages of cement compositions include fragile adhesion to smooth smooth surfaces... In addition, working with these mixtures requires a certain skill.

Lime plaster is the least commonly used. It is easy to apply, but has a lot of disadvantages.

More specifically, lime plaster:

fragile;
short-lived;
hygroscopic;
not resistant to mechanical stress.

The optimal choice for self-leveling the ceiling is a gypsum mixture. The most popular are German-made products: "Fügenfüller" and "Rotband".

Prices for gypsum mix "Fügenfüller"

gypsum mix "Fügenfüller"

The table will help in choosing a mixture.

Table # 1. Popular brands of plaster for leveling ceilings.

Brand name	Brand	Material consumption for applying a layer with a thickness of 10 mm (kg / m2)	Pot life (min)
Volma	"Gips Active"	8-9	120
Volma	"Plast"	10	45
"Osnovit"	"Gipswell MN"	9-10	90
"Osnovit"	"Gipswell T-25"	9	90
Knauf	"Rotband"	8,5	90
Knauf	"MP-75"	10	120
"Eunice"	"Teploton"	8,5-9	50
"Prospectors"	"Gypsum plaster"	8-9	20

The advantages of gypsum-based mixtures:

the ability to apply a layer up to 5 cm thick in one go;
minimum degree of shrinkage;
ease of application;
plastic;
low thermal conductivity (compared to cement-sand compositions);
good vapor permeability.

Ceiling preparation for leveling compound application

The process consists of several stages, we will consider the features of each of them.

Surface disinfection

The ceiling should be carefully inspected to make sure there is no signs of mold or mildew on it. Otherwise, you will have to perform antiseptic treatment (disinfection) of the surface. For this purpose, solutions are used, which include copper sulfate or chlorine.

Usually people prefer these means:

Pufas;
"Deo-anti-mold";
"Sepotosan-T";
Belinka and others.

Burning the ceiling with a blowtorch will help get rid of the fungus. Treatment with solutions based on bleach or antiseptics will only give a temporary result.

Surface cleaning

At this stage of preparing the ceiling for leveling, the old finishing coating is removed: paint, whitewash, plaster, wallpaper. Depending on the type finishing material use different removal methods.

Puttying the surface

If, after removing the old coating, many cracks and irregularities have formed, it makes sense to close them with a high-quality putty. You can use the products of Knauf - Spachtelmasse or Uniflot. These compounds are elastic, adhere well to concrete and plaster, and are moisture resistant.

The best way to apply the putty is with a spatula equipped with a square or rectangular blade. If there are many surface defects and they are located side by side, the excess composition is removed with a spatula with a wide blade. Thus, a preliminary leveling of the ceiling is carried out.

Surface priming

Before applying the primer, the gaps near the pipes are filled polyurethane foam... After it hardens, the protruding tubercles are cut off with a knife. In order for the primer to lay down well, the surface of the ceiling is cleaned of small particles of plaster, cement, dust.

Experts use Knauf "Betonokontakt" for the preparation of the ceiling. There are other compounds with similar properties, but the Betonokontakt primer has proven its superiority in practice: it is easy to apply, dries quickly, and gives the surface a slight roughness. The latter quality of the mortar is especially important, since the roughness provides the best adhesion. The primer is applied with a brush, carefully working through all the grooves, corners, pipe installation locations.

Putty prices

putty

If the surface of the upper slab is fairly smooth, as is often the case with concrete slabs, notches are made before priming. Another option for ensuring high-quality adhesion of the ceiling to the plaster is surface treatment with a sandblaster.

Rules for applying plaster to the ceiling

Steps, illustrations	Description of actions
	If the mixture is dry, it is diluted with water so that the consistency of thick sour cream is obtained. Such an amount of composition is prepared so that it can be developed in one go.
	The plaster is laid on the ceiling between the lighthouses so that the space between them is completely closed on an area of 1x1 m2 (or less).
	They take a metal rule and level the solution with it, performing zigzag movements "towards themselves".
	If depressions have formed, they are filled with plaster and re-leveled with a rule.
	If multiple coats are required, the solution is allowed to dry.
	With a large difference in height (more than 2 cm), each layer is reinforced with plaster mesh: lay it on the ceiling and lightly rub it with plaster.
	If the layer is finishing, after applying it, take a break for 10-15 minutes and grout: a sponge is moistened in water and with its help the treated area is given the maximum possible smoothness.
	Beacons are being removed.
	The resulting voids are filled with plaster according to the above technology.

To obtain a perfectly flat surface, sanding is carried out with a float with a mesh No. 150 or No. 170. After such treatment, no finishing layer of putty is required.

The nuances of working with gypsum-based compositions

Gypsum plasters set quickly, therefore it is recommended to prepare the mixture in small portions.
If a wet mixture is used in the work, it is unacceptable to add water or other ingredients to it.
When applying, one should strive to ensure that the layer thickness does not exceed 2 cm, otherwise the formation of bubbles is possible (under the influence of the weight of the wet plaster).

Video - Leveling the ceiling with putty

Dry way of leveling the ceiling

Dry leveling techniques include:

installation of suspended structures;
installation of a stretch ceiling;
installation of PVC panels or siding.

Each of these methods deserves attention, as it allows you to simultaneously close the rough ceiling and decorate the room beautifully.

Siding trim is the least attractive, therefore this method is used much less often and is almost never used for the improvement of apartments and private houses. Siding installation is suitable for industrial premises, shops, kiosks, parking lots and other facilities.

Video - Siding ceiling decoration

The stretch ceiling can be installed with your own hands or with the help of specialists. For self-installation, you will need to buy a canvas (fabric or PVC film), a profile, fasteners (screws and dowels). During the installation of the film ceiling, heating of the room is required, so you will need to buy or rent a sufficiently powerful heat gun.

Plasterboard suspended structures are easy to install, but you need to know all the rules for working with metal profiles and gypsum board. Dry techniques are not really leveling. They are complete ways of installing a new (often multi-level) ceiling.

DIY false ceiling installation

Illustrated step-by-step instruction will help you quickly and accurately install the frame false ceiling and make the plasterboard cladding.

Drywall prices

drywall

Materials and tools

All the tools necessary for the installation of a false ceiling are available to every owner - in particular, these are:

drill;
screwdriver;
roulette;
square;
scissors for metal;
level.

For cutting gypsum board, it is convenient to use a jigsaw. But if this tool is not available, you can get by with a clerical knife. GKL is a malleable material, therefore, to cut the canvas, it is enough to hold it several times in the right place with a sharp knife, after which the sheet is bent at the cut and cracked. Get a canvas of the desired size.

All components required for mounting the frame can be purchased at a building materials store. You will need a metal profile PN 28/27 and PP 60/27. The first is for the installation of guides, the second is for the installation of bearing supports.

The profile is fixed with suspensions, which are of two types: straight suspension and shortened straight suspension. The first differ from the second only in length. These plates are necessary in order to firmly hold the frame planks at the desired height. To do this, they (suspensions) are fixed to the ceiling using self-tapping screws, dowels or screws. The metal profile is inserted into the space between the perforated "whiskers" of the plate and attached to them using self-tapping screws SMM 3.5 / 51.

You will need a PP profile connector - single-level ("crab"). It is necessary in order to fix the intersections of the frame slats.

We draw up a false ceiling diagram

The simplest drawing of a suspended ceiling is made by hand and clearly shows the location of each structural element, the points of attachment and connection. On this impromptu drawing, it is imperative to indicate all the distances that are determined as a result of measurements of the room. For the correct drawing up of the diagram, you need to know the maximum permissible values for the installation of each element of the frame.

The guides PN 28/27 are fixed to the walls with self-tapping screws in increments of 40-45 cm.
The hangers should be installed no further than 50 cm from each other.
The bearing profile PP 60/27 is placed parallel and perpendicular to each other at a distance of no more than 60 cm.

Depending on the dimensions of the room, the optimal points of attachment of the frame to the ceiling are found. For a single-level ceiling, the diagram may look like this:

For a two-level - like this:

Wall and ceiling markings

Correct markings are the key to an excellent end result. Therefore, at this stage of work, you need to be extremely careful. First of all, they find out which of the corners of the room is the lowest. With respect to the found point, horizontal lines are drawn along the perimeter of the room. For this purpose, it is convenient to use a chalk lace, with which the walls are beaten off.

The ceiling is drawn with a marker in accordance with a previously drawn up scheme. The fixation points of the suspensions and the lines of the bearing profile are marked. If spot lighting is provided in the false ceiling, after completing the marking, proceed to the device of the corresponding electrical wiring.

Installation of plasterboard ceiling rails

Since GCR is a hygroscopic material, its dimensions will change under the influence of compression-tensile forces. Visually, this process is invisible, but it must be taken into account when installing the frame. For this, there are a number of rules that must be followed.

If the bearing surface is uneven, the side of the PN 28/27 profile, which is in contact with the wall, is pasted over with sealing tape (for example, Dichtungsband).
The ceiling profile must not be pressed tightly against the guide. A damping gap of 2-3 mm should remain between them, which will compensate for the movement of the frame. They are inevitable, as the ceiling will be affected by compression-expansion forces caused by temperature extremes.
When fastening PN 28/27 to the wall, a gap of 1-2 mm should remain between the screw head and the metal profile. It is recommended to use rubber or paronite washers.

Installation of the frame of a two-tiered suspended ceiling made of plasterboard

The technology of a multi-level ceiling device depends on the complexity of its design. The main difference is that a single-level ceiling is a complex of bearing racks lying in one plane, and a multi-level one is a volumetric structure that includes curved lines and shapes from a metal profile.

During installation, special attention is paid to the accuracy of measurements and the correct fastening of the strips. To obtain curly elements, the side shelves of the PP 60/27 are notched and the profile is very carefully bent so that a smooth line is formed.

The second tier can border on the walls. In this case, it is necessary to complete the entire range of work that was carried out during the construction of the first level (marking and installation of guides).

If the drawing of a suspended plasterboard ceiling provides for a central location of the figure, its frame is built directly in the desired place on the ceiling.

Recessed lighting prices

recessed luminaire

Sheathing the frame with plasterboard

GKL canvases are attached to the supporting supports with a step of 20-25 cm. In the corners and bends, the distance between the screws is reduced to 10-12 cm. After cutting the gypsum board, each sheet is chamfered where necessary. Such preparation of the canvases will allow you to correctly lay and fill in the reinforcing mesh-serpyanka. It is needed to cover the seams and firmly connect the gypsum boards to each other.

For curly structural elements, you will need to bend drywall. To do this, it is carried out several times with a needle roller or shallow notches are made with a knife. They moisten the canvas with water and wait for it to be absorbed, after which they begin to deform the sheet.

Self-tapping screws are used to fasten GKL sheets. In the process, the sheathing sheets should be installed so that the gaps between them are minimal. Solid sheets are installed perpendicular to the long guide profiles. Joining of sheets is performed in the middle of the profile. For high-quality fastening, it is better to do the work together. Even during fastening, the sheets are recessed into the cladding material by 2-3 mm.

The step between the screws should be 25-30 cm (3-4 cm from each corner of the sheets). Chips should not form at the edges of the sheets when screwing in the screws. If, nevertheless, it was possible to damage the material, the self-tapping screw must be removed, and a new one must be screwed in 3-4 cm.

False ceiling putty is a simple and easy task. The composition is applied with a rubber spatula, trying to carefully fill all the gaps and fastening points of the screws. After the putty has dried, remove its excess with a sanding mesh.

Remove dust from the surface of the gypsum board. They admire the result of their labors and prepare for the final stage of work - finishing. The ceiling can be painted, wallpapered or 2-3 layers of decorative plaster can be applied to it.

Video - Installation of a suspended plasterboard ceiling

(builder of laser planes).

Photo # 1.

1 - laser rotary level with a wide range of self-leveling.

2 - laser rotary level, preliminary manual alignment in the horizontal plane is required.

3 - laser multi-prism level with a wide range of self-leveling.

Advantages:

Simplicity and speed of setup... Self-leveling laser rotary levels (1) have built-in gyroscopes with a servo drive, so there is no need to waste time aligning the instrument in a horizontal position, just put the level on a tripod or any stable approximately horizontal surface approximately in the middle of the room. Lasers (2) must be set manually in the horizontal plane. In multiprism laser levels, the laser generator is suspended on a pendulum, therefore it also aligns itself.
Simplicity and speed of marking... The level generates a scattered laser beam (or several beams) which, hitting any surface, becomes quite clearly visible. In rotary levels, the beam is scattered by rotating the laser head; in multiprism levels, the beam is scattered by passing through prisms. All you need is to make marks on the walls along the beam. An additional convenience of the laser level is that the marking can be done alone, without helpers.
... Manufacturers of laser levels allow an error of 0.2-0.3 mm / m for laser levels (1) and (3) and up to 5 mm / m for laser levels (2), which means that when marking in a room with dimensions of 10x10 m, the laser beam may have a deviation from horizontal to 3-5 millimeters per 10 meters - this is a fairly high accuracy.

Disadvantages:

Relatively high price... Self-leveling lasers (1) and (3) cost between $ 400 and $ 4000. Simpler laser levels (2) can be purchased for $ 80-150. But all the same, buying such a device only in order to make repairs in small apartment is not always beneficial. And renting a laser level is also quite problematic.
... Although construction equipment uses generators of laser beams with a power of 0.5-1 milliWatts (for example, laser pointers have a power of up to 200 mW), nevertheless, the direct laser beam on the retina should be avoided. Some lasers come with special safety glasses. Safety glasses for working with lasers can be purchased separately, but it is unlikely that you will be able to find safety glasses that cost less than $ 100.

2. Simple laser level.

Photo # 2... Simple laser level.

Advantages:

Relatively low price... Simple laser levels cost $ 10-20. In fact, these are ordinary building levels with the simplest laser beam generator.

Disadvantages:

A simple laser level generates a laser beam. To make the markings along the beam, it is necessary to set the level as close as possible to the wall on which the markings will be made.
Less high accuracy. The accuracy of marking when using a simple laser level directly depends on the accuracy of calibration and leveling. When working with such a level, the error can reach 2-5 cm per 10 m. This is a large error, nevertheless, it is possible to cope with such an error.
Potential health hazard... Although the construction equipment uses generators of laser beams with a power of 0.5-1 milliWatts, nevertheless, the direct laser beam onto the retina should be avoided. The set of more expensive laser levels includes special protective goggles. Safety glasses for working with lasers can be purchased separately, but it is unlikely that you will be able to find safety glasses that cost less than $ 100.

3. Optical level.

Photo # 3. Optical level

Advantages:

Relatively high accuracy... When finely tuned, the optical level allows you to determine marks at very long distances.

Disadvantages:

The complexity of the tincture. I have not yet met optical levels with a self-leveling function. Usually, the device needs to be set up for a long time and scrupulously, and then it is advisable to take control measurements in order to check the accuracy of the setting of the device.
Complexity of markup... When working with an optical level, an assistant is needed who will hold the staff and adequately follow the commands. Well, in order to use an optical level, you need to go through at least basic geodetic training.
Relatively high price... Optical levels are not much cheaper than laser levels, but you can buy a used optical level for $ 50-100.

4. Normal building level.

Photo No. 4... A typical building level (spirit level, spirit level) 60 cm long.

Advantages:

Relatively low price... Typical building levels cost between $ 3 and $ 30 depending on length, design and manufacturer.
Ease of markup... You can markup alone, without helpers.

Disadvantages:

More complex markup process. The shorter the level, the more often it will have to be applied to the wall for marking. In order to measure the ceiling or floor, you need a level 1.5-2 m long. You cannot hide such a level in your pocket.
Low accuracy. The accuracy of marking when using a conventional building level directly depends on the accuracy of calibration and leveling. When working with such a level, the error can reach 2-5 cm per 10 m. This is a large error, nevertheless, it is possible to cope with such an error.

5. Water level

Photo # 5... Water level (hydrostatic level).

Advantages:

Relatively low price... Water levels cost between $ 3 and $ 20 depending on length, construction and manufacturer.
Fairly high accuracy... The water level is two communicating vessels connected by a rubber hose or transparent plastic tube, so whatever the distance between the vessels, the water in the vessels should theoretically always be at the same level.

Disadvantages:

Quite a long preparation for work. Before work, water must be poured into the level so that the vessels have something to communicate. In this case, you need to ensure that there are no air bubbles in the tube. If the air is not immediately expelled, then you will have to add water during the marking process. Previously, when working with a water level, you had to plug the vessel with your finger, now most water levels have sealed covers or plugs.
Relatively complex markup process. In principle, everything is simple, two vessels are exposed at approximately the same height at the beginning and at the end of the wall or in diametrically opposite corners of the room, then the lids are unscrewed and the water in the vessels is leveled, marks are made on the walls according to the water level. But water has inertia, so it takes more time to equalize the water, the longer the connecting hose and the smaller the diameter of the hose. If you put both vessels at different heights, then part of the water may spill out and water will have to be added, if the vessel lids are not tight enough, then during the marking, the water may also partially pour out, and even when working with the water level, you need to make sure that the hose is not squeezed. To accurately transfer the water mark to the wall, you need to keep your eyes at the level of the top of the water.

As you can see, there are no ideal tools for determining horizontal elevations.

The very marking of the new level of the ceiling or floor according to the marks obtained by any of the above methods is easier and faster to produce with a paint cord.

In fact, a painting cord is a harsh thread in a container with dry blue (or powder of any other color). If you pull and press the cord at two points along the edges, and in the middle, pull the cord a little in the middle and then release it, then a shot from this bow will give an almost perfect straight line. But if the marking is done alone, then a building level or any flat building profile is used to draw straight lines through the marks obtained.

In order for the structure of the frame and the GKL sheets attached to it to be even, the ceiling marking is necessary. Its essence is to determine the level of the coverage, taking into account the curvature of the floors.

For work, you can use three main types of tools.

What tools can be used

The simplest, cheapest and most accurate device is the hydro level.

Water level

If you have no desire to buy such a tool in a hardware store, you can make it yourself. To do this, take a transparent hose, about 10 m long and insert two ordinary syringes for 20 cubes into its ends. Then fill the inside of the device with water.

So that it does not pour out when the level moves, insert the plungers into the syringes.

You need to work with such a tool with a hose together.

Note!
This device works according to the well-known principle of communicating vessels. In them, the level of liquid, in a calm state, is always the same. Make sure that there are no air bubbles in the hose. Otherwise, the level will be inaccurate.

Start the layout from the lowest corner of the room.... To do this, attach one end of the hose to the wall.
Next, your partner should place the second part of the level in the opposite corner of the wall, at the same height.
Then you need to open the plugs on the syringes.... The water will start moving and, after a while, will stop at the same level.
Transfer it to the wall by marking with a pencil... Make a mark on the adjacent corner of the adjacent wall.
Then, the end of the hose, from which the marking began, is transferred to the far corner of the next wall... Then all actions are repeated.
Thus, mark the entire perimeter of the room.... If you did everything correctly, then the last and first marks should coincide as much as possible in their height.
To connect all marks with a solid line, use a paint cord rubbed with pigment (skip).

Bubble level

A small room can be marked out alone, with the usual building level. You can do this at any convenient height.

Then, after additional measurements, move the marks to the desired height.

Place the tool against the wall so that the air bubble is located exactly in the middle between the risks.
Then draw a line with a pencil.
Next, rearrange the fixture and continue the line.
Repeat the steps until you have marked out the entire perimeter of the walls.

Note!
The level may not be accurate. As a result, the difference between the start and end points of the markup can be up to 2/3 cm.
To avoid this, apply a level to the walls with both sides. If there is a difference in readings, draw a line in the middle.

Work with a laser tool

Expensive laser levels have the additional function of self-leveling, as well as scattering rays along the perimeter of the walls of the room. When working with such a device, it is necessary to set the laser at the required height. Then mark the walls.

The instrument can be wall-mounted or mounted on a tripod or any level and stable surface.

There are also inexpensive laser levels. They look the same as ordinary bubble counterparts, only at the ends they have sources of laser beams. Their presence makes it possible to transfer marks over long distances.

At the same time, the quality of the marking depends on the accuracy of the installation of the tool, as well as whether the laser is shot down.

Determining the Height at Which Marks Should Be Made

Before you mark the ceiling for drywall, you need to determine the height at which it should be done.

Use a level to find the lowest point on the ceiling.
The most common case is a deflection in the middle of slabs. Any of the structures located on the supports bend, according to the laws of physics, exactly there.
The greatest deformation is observed in wooden and reinforced concrete floors, which have the size of the room in length. Height differences can be more than 10 cm.
Maximum height of the future

It is not difficult to mount it with your own hands, if you thoroughly understand the process of work. The whole point of the work consists in the following stages:

Markup
Installation of the profile frame
Installation of drywall on the frame

The first stage of work is the most responsible, and therefore it needs to be given most attention... If the ceiling is marked incorrectly, then it may turn out to be crooked or loosely adhere to the frame. These mistakes will at least require reworking the entire structure from scratch, and this is an extra waste of time, nerves and money.

This article will help you understand the correct marking of the ceiling for drywall, and also explain the principle of use different levels for her.

Ceiling markings under the drywall frame

Drywall is a convenient material for use, but, like any other, it has its own.

The first step in installing drywall is marking the ceiling, which will be needed for the following purposes:

make the ceiling even. For this, the frame profiles must be fastened at the same level. And given the fact that ceilings are often initially crooked, the markings are designed to resolve this problem.
spend less time on work and materials. Right marking the ceiling, you will know exactly how much materials you need, and you may not buy more than you need. During the work, it will be clear to you where to attach the profiles on the plane of the walls and ceiling, which will allow you not to get confused.

First of all, you need to determine the point at which the new ceiling will be located. Find the place where it is lowest in the room, and measure the required distance. Consider what you need to hide behind the drywall:

communications,
lamps,
isolation (if any),
the width of the profiles (2.5 cm) and gypsum board (0.9 cm).

Usually this distance is 10-18 cm. Now you need to draw a line parallel to the floor along the entire perimeter of the room at the indicated level. This can be done in several ways, which are detailed below.

Applying markings around the perimeter of the room

Marking with a water level

The water level is an inexpensive device (it costs about 150-200 r). It is easy to use, but you need two people to use it.

The hydraulic level is filled with water to the 0 mark in both flasks. Check if the level is the same by bringing the vessels closer to each other.

The first person attaches his end to the mark on the wall so that the 0 stroke on the flask and the water level coincide with it, respectively. His assistant at this time goes to another corner of the room and tries to find a position in which the water will occupy the same zero level in the vessel. A mark is placed on the wall at this point. Likewise around the perimeter of the entire room.

Using a paint cord or just a profile, connect the marks. The ceiling is marked.

Building level markings

This is the least accurate type of wall markings. There are many chances to make mistakes, so experts advise you to resort to it in small rooms.

Apply the level to the wall so that one end is on the mark. Find a position where the air dot is in the middle and place a mark on the wall. Then there are two options:

Using the building level, continue making marks throughout the room.
With the help of a painter's thread, make a line at once on the entire wall.
- Attach the end of the thread to the reference mark, pull the thread so that it passes evenly through the marked point, and pull it to the corner of the room. You need the thread to pass exactly through these two points.
- Beat off the level. You should check the correctness of the line by attaching a building level.
- Do the same with the rest of the walls. You don't need to use a thread here.
- You can attach a tape measure and spin it all over the wall in the same way as a thread, i.e. clearly through two points. Then draw a line with a pencil like a ruler.

If resorting to this way in large rooms, there is a high risk of making a curved line.

Laser level marking

The cheapest laser level costs about 3000 r. But the price justifies the quality: with the help of such a tool it is very convenient to make both markings on the wall around the perimeter and on the ceiling when you will fix the profiles.

It is necessary to install the device on the wall at the desired level and either immediately attach the supporting profiles (if the beam projects a line on all walls), or mark the beam line with a pencil, and then do the same on the remaining surfaces.

After you have marked out the wall, fix the profiles.

Laser ceiling marking it's not difficult to do either, reconfigure your device according to the instructions.

How do I mark the ceiling?

Now you can start marking the ceiling under the drywall frame. Here it is also necessary to perform the calculations meticulously and very accurately. Find the distance through which you will draw the marks, depending on the size of the sheet. Here you need to take into account that:

The edges of the drywall sheets should be joined in the middle of the profile.
In the middle of the GPL, a profile must pass

Observe a distance of 60 cm between the longitudinal elements of the frame, and between the transverse ones 50 or 60 cm.

IMPORTANT
Lines in the same direction should be parallel to each other and to the wall.

The markup is ready. You can proceed to.

Marking the ceiling for drywall with your own hands will take time. But once is enough to understand the principle of work, which this article contributed to.

We make markings for the ceiling.

In this article, we will look at a way to level the ceiling with plaster and plaster mixes. It is optimal for old apartments with low and uneven ceilings, as it practically does not "remove" the height in comparison with suspension systems.

Preparation of the base

Substrate preparation is arguably the dirtiest and most dusty part of the job when leveling a ceiling with plaster or plaster mixes. Where to start work, you ask, and we will answer you - first of all, you need to completely empty the premises. If it is impossible to do this, cover all things with plastic wrap and seal it tightly with tape, because dust and debris cannot be avoided in any way.

First we need:

Sharp spatula;
Bucket;
Sponge;
Respirator.

So, let's start repairing our ceiling.:

Removing old paint

First, as silly as it sounds, you should start with destruction. Namely - to remove the traces of the last, accumulated over the years of repairs (read). Remove all layers of whitewash, water-based paint and other paint from the ceiling with a spatula. To do this, you just need to tear off everything mechanically.

Tip: Alternatively, you can tie a long handle or stick to the spatula, and you will be able to work with both hands, which will greatly facilitate the task.

To facilitate the task, you can use the so-called "wet method". First wet the ceiling with water using a roller, brush or spray bottle... Let it soak well and peel it off without waiting for it to dry.

Tip: When peeling off layers of whitewash and plaster, the trowel must be sharp, therefore it is recommended to sharpen it from time to time.

There are several ways that have been proven over the years that can greatly facilitate our task.:

Hot water can be used to soften old whitewash.
Water-based paint will be much easier to remove using aqueous solution iodine. To do this, dissolve one bottle per bucket (about 10 liters) and saturate the ceiling with this mixture using a roller or brush.
Paints such as enamels or water-based paints are not washed off with water. They have to be removed only mechanically (read on). You can also make your job easier by using a "grinder" or a drill with a wire attachment, however, the amount of dust increases to an impossibility.
There are many products on the market for removing such paints. They are applied to the surface and after 15-20 minutes they are removed with a spatula along with the paint.

Removing plaster

The next step is to check the integrity of the plaster. All places where the plaster layer staggers or falls off must be removed with a spatula to the base. Particular attention should be paid to the seams between the panels and knock them with a hammer for reliability.... Indeed, over time, all houses shrink, their panel overlap "walks" a little and shifts, as a result of which the solution at the joints begins to fall off. Tap the seams between the floor panels and, if necessary, remove the mortar

Sealing interpanel seams

Now you can start directly with the repair of the ceiling. The first step before leveling the ceiling is to seal the joints between the panels.

It is done like this:

The seam between the panels is filled with polyurethane foam and left to solidify.
All seams should be treated with a primer for high-quality adhesion of the mortar to concrete surface panels.
Close the seam between the panels with Rotband.
The "Serpyanka" mesh is glued to the "Rotband".
Level the putty to the level of the panels and smooth it.

It should be noted that the use of a serpyanka for large and uneven seams does not exclude the appearance of cracks in the future (see). In this case, it would be better to use a plaster fiberglass mesh, gluing it in layers.

Getting ready for alignment

Now we need to measure the horizontal of the ceiling and set the beacons. But if you are not worried about how horizontal your ceiling is, and you just want to remove the differences between the panels, you can skip this step. Without the installation of beacons (when leveling only along the plane), the layer thickness is significantly reduced, which means that less materials will be consumed. True, most people, for some reason of their own, or because of pedantry, cannot come to terms with the idea that their ceiling will turn out to be with a slope.

In this case, there are several options.:

With a large deviation from the horizontal, only suspended or stretch ceilings can save.
If the difference is within 5 centimeters, you can use plaster by installing beacons.

Before installing the beacons, you need to determine the lowest point of the ceiling:

Use a tape measure to measure the distance from floor to ceiling in all corners of the room. Shortest distance and will be the lowest point of the ceiling.
Using a laser level or a hydro level, it is necessary to mark the height of this point around the perimeter of the room. It will be easier to do this if you only mark the corners and use a chopping line. To do this, stretch the cord between the marks and, slightly pulling it away from the wall, release it - you get a clear and even line.
Every 60-80 centimeters, screw the self-tapping screws into a line on two opposite walls. Pull the construction line across the room and, pulling it, tie it to the caps of the self-tapping screws. Such a landmark will greatly simplify the task of installing beacons for us.
Next, we glue the profile of the lighthouse to the ceiling using the "Fugenfüller" or "Rotband" putty using the point method with a step of 30 centimeters. This refers to the application of dots of putty on the ceiling and gluing the profile by light pressing. All beacons need to be aligned with the line stretched perpendicular to the line.
The last thing that requires preparation for the application of plaster layers is the cleaning of the putty protruding from the beacons and the priming of the entire ceiling.

Leveling with mixtures

When the base is ready, you can proceed directly to the application of leveling layers of putty.

They have their own characteristics in work, which should be mentioned.:

When kneading the putty, do not make a batch larger than you can use in 20-25 minutes.
After the putty has been mixed and stood for several minutes, do not add water or dry mixture to it. This has a very negative effect on the quality of its structure.
Do not dry the ceiling in a draft.
The layer applied at one time should not exceed the permissible value (it is indicated on the bag).

After kneading, apply the mixture to the ceiling with a small spatula and slightly level it.

Tip: It is very important to let the previous one dry completely before applying each coat. Indeed, if the technology is violated, all our work may simply fall off over time, despite the price and quality of the putty.

Each layer should be tightened using the rule for the installed beacons.

After the leveling layer has dried, it must be checked using the rule for unevenness. To do this, simply run the pressed rule along the surface of the ceiling - it should completely adhere. All protrusions are removed with sandpaper, and the holes should be putty.

Finishing the ceiling

The last step will be the gluing of the mesh at the joints of the panels and the finishing putty:

When the leveling layer is ready, it must be treated with a primer.
Before the finishing putty on the ceiling, it is worth sticking the fiberglass at the joints of the panels (rustic) in order to avoid the appearance of cracks.
The fiberglass mat is glued over the leveling layer by pressing it into a fresh layer of putty.
After the putty has dried, carefully remove all protrusions with a spatula and sand the surface with sandpaper.
It remains only to apply two more layers of the finished finishing putty "Acryl-Putz" or "Shitrok". More details of the process can be seen in the photo below.
A final sanding will complete all of our dusty ceiling work.

Painting

Before painting, you should remove the dust from the room and prime the ceiling. It is not necessary to use special primers for this purpose, just apply the first coat with well-thinned paint. The thinner should be selected only as indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.... Do not experiment: if the paint is water-based, then only water can be used when diluting it.

Tip: Do not dry the painted ceiling in a draft, as upper layer becomes covered with a crust, and the bottom remains wet and the plastic properties of the coating are destroyed.

We hope that after reading this article, you have learned how to properly align the ceiling. Now, do-it-yourself ceiling repairs at home will not be a problem.

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