Before figuring out how to insulate a balcony from the inside, we will explain the differences between a loggia and a balcony for uninitiated people. A balcony is a slab protruding from the plane of the facade with a fence on three sides. The loggia has a fence only on one side, since the two short sides are fenced with solid walls, on which the slab rests. There are no significant differences in the insulation of the balcony and loggia.

If you still doubt whether to insulate your balcony or loggia, then cast aside doubts. Having familiarized yourself with all the advantages of insulation, you will understand that it is simply necessary to do this, especially in conditions when keeping heat is the key to saving energy costs.


You can not only insulate the balcony from the inside, but also make a separate room there.

1. So, before deciding whether to insulate the balcony from the inside, find out about all the benefits that you will get as a result of increasing the thermal insulation of this room:
2. Firstly, if you have a heating boiler in your apartment, then you can significantly save on heating costs, since heat loss through a room with a balcony will decrease significantly. It has long been proven that most of the heat is lost from a room through a non-insulated and non-glazed balcony or loggia.
3. If you have centralized heating in your house, then you will still benefit, since it will become much warmer in a room with a balcony.
4. In the last century, very often the balcony served as a place for storing unnecessary trash. If you have an insulated one, beautiful balcony with original design, then you are unlikely to want to use it as a storage for all kinds of garbage. 4. Before insulating the balcony from the inside, think, perhaps, after insulating it, you can turn it into another room. Thus, you can increase the area of ​​your apartment and get a comfortable office, a recreation room, a flower greenhouse or a small gym.

How to insulate a balcony from the inside

What materials will be required

Before insulating the balcony from the inside, you need to decide what materials you will use for this. And it doesn't matter whether you do insulation or hire specialists. To choose materials, you must understand which structural layers will necessarily be present in the multilayer "pie" of the balcony structure.

So, for effective insulation the balcony must be glazed. After glazing, it is necessary to carefully seal all cracks and holes. The next step will be work on waterproofing the floor, walls and ceiling. The most important stage in the insulation of balconies and loggias is the fastening of the insulation and the construction of the wall frame. You cannot do in the construction of a warm balcony without the use of a vapor barrier. In addition, you will need materials to attach all layers to the walls, floor and ceiling. Balcony finishing will require no less attention when carrying out work and choosing materials. For each of the listed layers, you can choose a whole range suitable materials therefore we will pay special attention to the choice of materials for each layer.


The photo shows how you can insulate a small balcony and create a cozy room there.

Means for sealing holes and crevices

Before we insulate the balcony from the inside, we must take care of its glazing. Choose wooden or metal plastic windows for balcony insulation - a topic for a separate article. But the issue of sealing holes is very important, because without this procedure it is impossible to achieve effective thermal insulation of the balcony room.
So, to seal balconies and loggias, use any of the following compositions:

• polyurethane based sealant, foam or mastic;
• hermabutyl;
• polyurethane foam;
• hermaplex;
• Styrofoam.

As a rule, any sealing compound is used to seal small holes, and large holes are pre-filled with pieces of foam and then sealed with sealant.


To insulate the balcony from the inside, it is important to install good glazing there.

Balcony waterproofing devices

It is worth saying that it is impossible to insulate the balcony from the inside without high-quality waterproofing. By the way, we are talking not only about waterproofing the floor and walls, but also about such important places as frames and walls at low tide. As a rule, the parapet and balcony floor are waterproofed. For this, the following materials can be used:

• roll waterproofing material - roofing felt;
• penofol;
• coating waterproofing - bituminous mastics;
• penetrating waterproofing;
• folgoizolone.

If you want to insulate the balcony from the inside, then it is best to use roofing material. Roofing material is laid with an overlap. A torch is used to seal the seams. In addition, foil insulation is also suitable for independent use. The thickness of this material is only 4 mm. Folgoizolon is good because it can be used not only for waterproofing the balcony, but also for additional insulation.


So you can insulate the balcony from the inside, located near the kitchen.

Balcony insulation and vapor barrier materials

To answer the question of how to insulate a balcony from the inside, you must first of all deal with effective thermal insulation materials. Moreover, keep in mind that it is necessary to insulate the floor, ceiling and walls of the balcony or loggia. There are many various heaters... To choose the right material for insulating a balcony, you need to know its thermal conductivity coefficient. So, for effective thermal insulation, this indicator should be in the range of 0.02-0.04 W / mS. The higher this indicator, the lower the thermal insulation properties of the material.

1. air gap - 0.026 W / mS
2. reinforced concrete or concrete structure - 1.4 W / mS
3. polyurethane foam - 0.03 W / mS
4. stone or granite structures - 1.4 W / mS
5. penoizol - 0.033 W / mS
6. solid brick masonry - 0.67 W / ms
7. polystyrene or expanded polystyrene - 0.04 W / mS
8. gypsum structures - 0.35 W / mS
9. basalt slabs, stone wool - 0.045 W / mC
10. foam concrete - 0.3 W / mS
11. glass wool - 0.05 W / mS
12. wooden structures - 0.15 W / mS

You can insulate not only the balcony, but also the loggia
As can be seen from the list, in order to effectively insulate the balcony from the inside, it is required either to use a material with a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity, or to increase the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. The use of effective material will entail more significant costs for its acquisition, and as a result of an increase in the thickness of the layer in the second case, the useful area of ​​the balcony or loggia will decrease. The issue of preserving usable space is especially relevant for an apartment with a small balcony (in Khrushchev, for example). Therefore, the issue of choosing a heater must be approached with all responsibility. The table below will help you in the selection of thermal insulation material.

You can insulate the balcony from the inside using the following heat insulators

What is the material based on	Products presented on our market	Characteristic
Materials based on mineral wool or basalt fibers	Soft, hard and semi-hard mineral wool slabs, Rockwool, Izovol, Thermostack, Izorok, Parok	The material has a fibrous structure, which makes it an especially effective insulation. The heat insulator does not change its shape and structure during its service life, it is fire resistant, resistant to aggressive media, is not susceptible to damage by microorganisms, provides good sound and heat insulation
Styrofoam based materials	Penoplex, Tepleks, Primaplex, Styroform, Ursaform, extruded polystyrene foam (URSA XPS)	Materials based on extruded polystyrene foam have the highest thermal insulation properties. The lightness of the PPS boards makes them easy and quick to install. The material is notable for its affordability. However, there is an opinion about the possible release of toxic substances during combustion.
Fiberglass based materials	URSA, Knauf, Isover, Thermostack	This type of insulation belongs to inexpensive materials. It is easy to use as it is produced in the form of slabs and mats. However, its thermal insulation properties are lower
Foil materials	Penofol, Izokom, Tepofol, Izolon	This version of heat insulators belongs to reflective materials. It is a foamy polyethylene enclosed between two layers of foil. It combines high thermal insulation qualities and small thickness, which allows it to be used to insulate a balcony without losing usable area

As we mentioned above, in order to effectively insulate the balcony from the inside with your own hands, you must also install a vapor barrier layer. As vapor barrier materials, you can use a polyethylene film or a special roll material - a membrane vapor barrier.
How to insulate a balcony from the insideChoice of fasteners

Before insulating the balcony from the inside, decide how you will fix the waterproofing. If using a burner, then you will not need any other fasteners. If the fastening will be carried out with glue, then select adhesives with the appropriate purpose.

For fixing polystyrene and foam boards either glue or plastic dowels can be used. When choosing an adhesive, give preference to formulations without toluene, as it cannot be used with such materials.

If you decide to insulate the balcony from the inside with mineral wool, then only plastic dowels are needed to fix it, based on the calculation that 8-10 dowels are needed for each square meter of insulation.

The vapor barrier layer can be fixed together with the thermal insulation material using dowels or glued to the insulation.

You can insulate the balcony and equip a place to relax there.

Balcony finishing

We figured out how to insulate the balcony from the inside, it remains to make a choice of finishing materials. Moreover, we are talking not only about interior decoration, but also about external. To fasten the outer facing of the balcony, it is necessary to make a frame for fastening the covering. The frame can be made of aluminum profiles or wooden slats with a section of 50x50 mm. The frame is attached to corrugated board, siding, seamless plastic or wooden lining.

The inner lining of the balcony is attached to the same frame only of a smaller section. As a frame, you can use strips with a section of 25 (30) x40mm or aluminum profiles. A wooden lining can act as a decoration, plastic panels or drywall. The choice of material for interior decoration depends on which balcony design you choose. The use of plasterboard sheathing greatly expands the design possibilities. So, you can paste over the walls of the balcony with wallpaper, paint or cover with ceramic tiles.


It is not enough just to insulate the balcony from the inside, you need to provide for its reasonable functional purpose

If you want to insulate the balcony from the inside so that it is warm in this room even in winter, then it is most advisable to arrange a warm floor there. It is logical to make the same decision on floor insulation when arranging a loggia, combined with one of the rooms. In this case, the repair will affect not only the room of the loggia, but also the room, since during the work it is necessary to dismantle the window glass unit with balcony door, and the wall with a heating radiator will have to be harmoniously fit into the interior of the room.


To effectively insulate the balcony from the inside, it is logical to equip a warm floor
You can arrange a warm floor on the balcony. We work in the following sequence:

1. First you need to insulate the balcony floor. If you had lags on the old balcony, then they need to be removed. Then we execute cement-sand screed 20-30 mm thick on the balcony slab.
2. Now we lay the insulation. For underfloor heating, it is best to use extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 100 mm. We glue the insulation boards to the screed with a special glue without toluene.
3. We seal the seams between the plates using polyurethane foam.
4. Then we lay a layer of foil insulation and attach a cable to it for underfloor heating. We try to bend the cable so as to cover the entire floor area as much as possible.
5. Next, we make a screed from a cement-sand mixture with a thickness of 40-50 mm. For the screed, we take one part of grade 400 cement, three parts of sand and water.
6. After the screed has hardened, it can be laid ceramic tiles... Our warm floor is ready!

How to insulate a balcony from the inside

How to insulate a balcony from the inside: a sequence of actions

Before insulating the balcony from the inside, you need to stock up on tools for work. You will need:

• construction stapler;
• screwdriver;
• puncher;
• circular saw or hacksaw;
• gun for polyurethane foam;
• building level;
• roulette;
• dowels with caps;
• foil tape;
• fasteners (staples, clamps, etc.).

How to insulate a balcony from the inside: a design option
To effectively insulate the balcony, you need to perform the following work order:

1. Preparatory work.
2. Glazing of the balcony.
3. Wall and ceiling insulation works.
4. Finishing work.

1. Preparatory work

First you need to take out all the trash from the balcony. If your house is tiled, then it will need to be knocked down within the boundaries of your balcony. We do not touch the fence of the balcony. It will serve as a frame for cladding. If there are concrete partitions, then we also leave them. In the future, they will serve as additional insulation.

Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the balcony slabs. If there are chips or cracks on the upper and lower slabs, then it is better to cover them with a cement mortar. If there is a concrete fence made of slabs on the balcony, then the gaps between them need to be blown out polyurethane foam.

2. Glazing of the balcony

A whole volume can be written about the problems of choosing windows for a balcony, as well as their installation, so it is better to consider this issue in a separate article. If you want to insulate the balcony as efficiently as possible from the inside, then it is best to use plastic windows for glazing the balcony.


To insulate the balcony, you should take care of high-quality glazing.

To begin with, we list the materials that you will need in order to insulate the balcony floor with penoplex:

• insulation - penoplex;
• self-tapping screws;
• wooden slats (if your balcony had a floor along the logs, then you can leave the old logs);
• construction foam;
• plywood or chipboard.

Now we start working in the following sequence:

1. First, we lay the wooden slats on the balcony floor across the slab. The cross-section of the slats should be equal to the thickness of the insulation. In our case, 50X50 mm slats are suitable. The spacing of the slats should be equal to the width of the insulation plus 1 cm. We fasten the slats to the slab using anchors. We level them so that the balcony floor is level.
2. Then we put insulation in the gaps between the slats. The joints between the slats and the insulation are filled with construction foam to increase the thermal insulation properties.
3. Now we make the floor covering. To do this, we lay sheets of plywood or chipboard on slats and fasten them to them with self-tapping screws. Remember to leave a small gap between the sheets. Otherwise, your balcony floor will squeak in the future.
4. The selected floor can now be laid on the floor. It can be linoleum or carpet.

How to insulate a balcony with penoplex
It is possible to insulate the balcony, namely its floor, from the inside with URSA XPS insulation using the following materials:

• insulation URSA XPS;
• roll waterproofing (roofing material);
• self-leveling floor mixes;
• vapor barrier tape;
• reinforced wire mesh;
• polymer concrete;
• polyurethane foam.

To insulate the balcony, we perform floor insulation in the following sequence:

1. First, we seal all holes and crevices in the floor with polyurethane foam.
2. We lay the waterproofing on the floor, leading it to the walls to a height of 200 mm.
3. We level the floor using self-leveling mixtures.
4. Place the URSA XPS insulation boards on the floor. To protect your balcony from the appearance of dampness, mold and mildew, you must use a vapor barrier tape, which should be used to glue all the joints of the insulation boards with the walls.
5. Now fill the floor with 40 mm thick polymer concrete.
6. After that, we lay the reinforcing mesh on the floor.
7. Finally, you can install the selected flooring.

4. Wall and ceiling insulation works

To insulate the balcony from the inside, you should pay no less attention to its walls. Wall insulation with penoplex (foam) is performed as follows:

• insulation is attached to the walls with special glue;
• then we additionally fix the insulation to the walls using dowels with hats;
• after that, we attach a layer of reflective heat insulator - penofol to the insulation, leading it to neighboring walls;
• glue the seams between the sheets with foil tape.

How to insulate a balcony from the inside: a constructive diagram
It is even easier to insulate balcony walls with URSA XPS insulation. It is enough to glue the plates of heat-insulating material on the walls. After that, you can start cladding the walls with moisture-resistant plasterboard and finishing the walls of the balcony.

In the same way, using foam or URSA XPS, the balcony ceiling is insulated. To pave hidden wiring, you can use suspended ceiling structures.


How to insulate a balcony from the inside (fixing dowel with a cap)
Advice: if you use insulation for walls and ceilings of small thickness, then additionally it is necessary to install a vapor barrier layer that will not allow moisture to accumulate in the thermal insulation material. The vapor barrier layer must be installed in front of the insulation.

5. Finishing work

We already know how to insulate a balcony from the inside. In matters of decoration, no specific advice can be given. It all depends on your tastes and preferences. Can be sewn up interior walls balcony with laminated panels, wooden clapboard, cover them with plastic panels or drywall. In the latter case, the possibilities of various design solutions the premises expand significantly, because the surface of the drywall can be painted, pasted over with wallpaper or tiled.
Also, professional advice on how to insulate a balcony from the inside will help you:



You can insulate the balcony from the inside and arrange it there winter Garden

How to insulate the roof of the balcony

When answering the question of how to insulate a balcony from the inside, do not forget that on the balconies of the last floors, the roof of the balcony room will also need to be insulated. When insulating the roof of the balcony, there can be two solutions, and they are due design features balcony. So, there are balconies that:

• the project provides for a concrete slab on top, which serves as a visor;
• covering the balcony is not provided at all.

In the first case, we carry out the insulation of the concrete slab from the inside in the same way as described above in the section "work on insulation of walls and ceiling". In the second case, it will be necessary to install a frame roof of the balcony with its subsequent insulation. We will consider this case in more detail.

Information on how to make a frame for a balcony roof can be found on the Internet. This is a topic for a separate article. We can only say that the frame can be wooden in the form of beams or metal in the form of small trusses.

How to insulate a balcony and its roof from the inside
The principle of balcony roof insulation can be seen in the proposed diagram. As you can see, in order to effectively insulate the balcony in the roofing cake, the following structural layers must be present (from top to bottom):

• roof covering: it can be metal tiles, flexible roll tiles, corrugated board. When using corrugated board and metal tiles, it is recommended to perform additional sound insulation on the reverse side of the coating from a self-adhesive film or special spraying;
• waterproofing carpet: instead of roofing material, it is better to give preference to special films made of polyester and polyvinyl chloride;
• anti-condensation film layer: special material with a fleecy surface on the underside does not allow moisture vapor to accumulate and drain onto the insulation;
• a ventilation gap of 2-3 cm must be left between the film and the balcony roof frame;
• wind protection: a layer of a vapor-permeable membrane film, which allows moisture vapor to evaporate from the insulation into the ventilation gap and at the same time does not let large drops of moisture back into the insulation;
• thermal insulation layer(mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, etc.): the insulation is attached to the balcony frame, all the seams between the plates are carefully foamed;
• insulation vapor barrier from below: protects the insulation from moisture penetration from the room. It is important to control that the vapor barrier material covers the entire area of ​​the insulation;
• false ceiling: you can fix the ceiling directly to the truss or beams, you can provide for fixing the ceiling with hangers.

A large balcony can be insulated from the inside so that you get another room

Balcony insulation cost

We figured out how to insulate the balcony from the inside, but many people are interested in the price of such work. The final cost depends on the size of your balcony, the amount of work, materials used. So that you can have at least an approximate idea of ​​the price, we can say that a balcony measuring 4X1.5 m and a height of 2.5 m will cost 30 thousand rubles. Half of this amount will be spent on the installation of plastic windows, about 10 thousand rubles will be required for the purchase of insulation (extruded polystyrene foam) and 5 thousand rubles will be spent on other finishing materials and fasteners.


How to insulate a balcony from the inside: a design option

Balcony design

If you think that it is quite effective to insulate the balcony from the inside, and it will be good and comfortable on it, then you are very mistaken. Warming is, of course, important, but don't forget about design. Only the harmonious design of the premises allows a person to feel comfortable in it.
A common mistake is to make a storage for canning and potatoes on the balcony. Better to let your insulated balcony be a place for rest and relaxation. That is why you should not come up with built-in wardrobes and shelves. Instead, put in a pair of wicker chairs, a fold-out or glass table.


You can also insulate a small balcony from the inside.
Tip: if there is not a lot of space on your balcony, then use folding furniture. Wooden folding chairs and folding table against the wall will allow you to enjoy your vacation and save free space.
To make your balcony a place of relaxation in winter, arrange a winter garden there. In addition to a place to rest, make room for indoor plants. Small decorative elements, pebbles or a small electric fountain will create the feeling of a paradise garden. Just imagine how pleasant it is to relax in a wicker rocking chair on your balcony, enjoying the murmur of water, the scent of flowers and the singing of canaries in cages.
Easy to accomplish balcony in Mediterranean style. For this you need:

• all external or internal corners on the balcony should be faced with natural or artificial stone (for better adhesion, press the stone to the wall for three minutes);
• walls are painted in white, light beige or sand tones;
• we use forged furniture in the interior;
• in addition, bright red colors should be present (these can be pillows on furniture, poufs, small decorative elements, flower pots).

How to insulate a balcony from the inside and create a Mediterranean atmosphere there
To arrange a balcony v oriental style would need:

• the walls and floor of the balcony should be decorated in bright colors (walls can be painted with colorful stripes using masking tape and a roller);
• we use a lot of fabrics in the interior different colors(organza curtains, pillows, poufs);
• instead of standard furniture, you can use a podium or hammock, securely fixing it to the walls.

How to insulate a balcony from the inside and design it in an oriental style
Balcony in japanese style will become your favorite vacation spot. To create it we use:

• furniture in dark colors (you can get by with a low small table, and put a rug or pillows instead of chairs);
• on the windows roller blinds in Japanese style;
• pastel-colored walls can be decorated with paintings of flowers or bamboo (just do not overdo it, the image should be small and not on the entire wall).

How to insulate a balcony from the inside and create a Japanese-style interior
Now you know everything about how to insulate a balcony from the inside, how to create a harmonious design of this room. All that remains is to get down to business and as a result, your balcony from a pantry for all trash will turn into a favorite vacation spot for the whole family.

Today's balcony in many apartments turns into a full-fledged room, a functional space. This is especially true for small apartments, whose residents appreciate every centimeter. If the balcony is insulated, it becomes an office, a storage room, a resting place, a mini greenhouse, a dining room or an extra bed. There are many options for its use. The main thing is to do the work on its insulation with high quality. Only in this case it will be warm and cozy on the balcony.

Features and Benefits

In the warm season, the whole family can rest on the balcony, but when autumn comes, this room becomes useless. If you insulate it, the situation will change. The plus is that all the planned work is easy to do on your own. Additionally, a warm room is a space in which it is easy to create a small work area or sitting area. In addition, the presence of a warm balcony will automatically make the apartment cozier and warmer. You can attach a living room or kitchen to it, depending on its location. This will create extra space.

Before you start with insulation or glazing, you need to get expert advice. He will definitely tell you what kind of load a warm balcony can withstand, whether it is worth strengthening it. If the base is a strong concrete slab, the question of reinforcement does not arise. But the metal parapet must be strengthened with foam blocks or light bricks from ceramic material... The same should be done in the case of a fragile fastening of a reinforced concrete base.

For insulation, double-glazed windows in wooden frames can be used. They are environmentally friendly, allow windows to "breathe", but are expensive. Aluminum windows insulated with polyamide inlays increase the thermal insulation of the room. The most optimal would be the equipment of PVC windows with double glazing, which reliably retain heat.

Such windows are cheaper than wooden ones, but at the same time their thermal insulation is not inferior to aluminum ones.

What materials are better to choose

For finishing balconies or loggias today there are many varieties of finishing materials, with the help of which they give even the smallest room an original and attractive look. The main thing is to do right choice material for decoration. For insulation, experts recommend using cork, plastic panels, lining with a wooden or plastic base, drywall, plaster, MDF panels, decorative rock, aluminum profile, penoplex, expanded polystyrene, penofol.

Mineral wool, styrofoam finishing is an excellent solution for self-insulation rooms.

In the case of a non-insulated balcony, it is better to give preference to artificial stone, plastic frost-resistant lining, cork panels or tiles. The following materials are most often used for finishing:

Drywall

• This material is distinguished by the fact that it is based on no toxic substances, it is easy to process and is combined with other finishing materials in design. Drywall can be plastered, painted, wallpapered, sheathed with panels and clapboard. With the help of such a versatile material, it is enough to simply turn a balcony into a full-fledged living room.

PVC panels

• A practical solution, but it is better not to use this material if the constant temperature on the balcony is below five degrees. This problem can be solved with the help of frost-resistant panels, developed using new technologies. This material is not afraid of moisture, but it is able to quickly lose color from direct sunlight. This point should be taken into account if the room is located on the south side. Advantages: low cost, quick and easy installation with glue.

Cork panels

• They create a cosiness that cannot be organized using other Decoration Materials... Cork panels are pressed bark of cork oak. Cork panels are easy to install and are suitable for any type of balcony, regardless of the room temperature. The cork panel does not absorb foreign odors, including the smell of tobacco. Lack of material - high price. For insulation, inexpensive penoplex is also used, mineral wool is also perfect.

How to properly insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step instructions

A balcony in a city apartment is a special space. This piece of the house, brought out under the open sky, can become an office, a greenhouse or a resting corner, you just have to glaze and isolate it.

Do-it-yourself balcony insulation will save a lot of money. Sheathing in panel house, in "Khrushchev" is done taking into account the characteristics of the apartment and building.

• Step 1... To begin with, the dismantling of old frames is carried out, the surface is prepared and things are taken out. Insulation from the inside is an important stage in the entire process.

• Step 2... At the second stage, it is necessary to glaze the balcony. The best option would be PVC plastic windows. Many people prefer to keep the old wood frames. However, remember that even if wooden structures are in good condition, they will not be able to organize the same heat savings. There are cracks in the tree, so it makes no sense to engage in insulation in this situation.

• Step 3... After the plastic windows are installed, you can start to warm the floor. Be prepared for the floor to get higher. Consider this if the ceiling in the room is low.

• Step 4... Wall cladding is carried out after the installation of windows and floor insulation. The walls on the balcony are considered to be side walls, except for the main one. At the final stage of insulation, Finishing work... The choice of materials depends on the budget. In the process of finishing, window slopes opening onto a balcony.

Required tools and materials

• In order to insulate a balcony or loggia, you will need the following tools: a hacksaw for metal or a clerical knife; roulette; level; pencil, marker or any other writing instrument; glue application tool - brush, spatula, and so on; other instruments. From the materials you need glue and the insulation itself. In addition, you will need a vapor barrier film and a windproof membrane.

You will also need a frame device. In this case, you will need wooden beams, as well as nails to secure them. You may also need special fasteners - nails with very wide heads. They are used when polystyrene is not attached with glue.

Insulation inside

• High-quality thermal insulation combined with double glazing turns the balcony into a living space. It is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor with the ceiling. Insulation materials must be durable, lightweight, safe for humans. Due to precipitation and condensation, the walls of the balcony can become damp and moldy, which means that a hydro and vapor barrier is needed.

Polystyrene foam meets these requirements as much as possible: traditional foam plastic and Penoplex thermal insulation boards. The first is very lightweight, compressive strength, and waterproof. Penoplex is insulation made of extruded polystyrene foam. Its margin of safety and durability surpasses conventional foam, and its shape makes it easy to install in the grip and provides perfect insulation. Balcony cladding with slabs can be performed both inside and outside.

Insulation of a closed balcony begins with surface preparation. It is necessary to carefully cover the gaps and joints between the floor, walls and parapet with polyurethane foam without toluene in the composition. Metal constructions need to be cleaned from rust, covered oil paint and treat with a building antiseptic.

Before laying the insulation, they put windows and doors. Window sills and slopes are mounted at the last stage of work. The glazing of the balcony depends on the parapet. If this is just a metal crate, it needs to be built up with ceramic (lightweight) bricks or foam blocks. The thickness should not exceed ten centimeters. To protect the foam blocks, at the finishing stage, they are covered with corrugated board.

Floor

Window structures can be installed on a reinforced concrete parapet immediately, using various assembly and sealing compounds. Reinforced-plastic windows have excellent characteristics, with skillful installation, they reliably protect the balcony and look aesthetically pleasing. When choosing a model, it is worth stopping at swing frames with double glazing.

Floor

• In order to insulate the floor, you can resort to two different directions at once: making it warm or constantly heating it. We are talking about installing a floor heating system, for example, an electric one. Installation of a water system on a balcony is very inconvenient and almost impossible, but installation of an electrical or film system is easy to carry out.

photos

It all starts with preparation. A waterproofing film is laid on the floor under the tiles, which protects the floor from moisture from the outside. Further, the crate is arranged. Instead of a lag, a bar is used, five centimeters thick. If you do not want to raise the floor too much in relation to the old coating, it is better to use a beam of low height. A square beam of 50 × 50 mm is perfect. The beams are laid every 40-60 cm.

To prevent moisture from entering the insulation from the inside, it is covered with a vapor barrier film. It is laid on top of the beams and attached to them with a construction stapler. For internal fastening, a fastening step of 50 cm is sufficient, so as not to create unnecessary holes in the film. Polystyrene must be protected from moisture on all sides. Therefore, it is better to lay the film with an overlap on the walls. All gaps between the beams and walls should be sealed with the same insulation material or polyurethane foam.

Walls

• Many do not insulate the walls, believing that the cold does not enter the balcony from the side of the house. In many ways it is, but the work must be done. The walls themselves are not sources of cold, but the joints between them and the side walls of the balcony can be. For this reason, the whole work can only consist in installing foam foam, which is vapor-tight and thin. It will protect the walls from icing and the penetration of condensate into the balcony.

• Ceiling. If we are talking about a private house, then it is best to make a special roof structure. It is recommended to do pitched roof, the slope of which is directed away from the house. The roof is made of rafters and lathing. A waterproofing film is attached on top of it. Attached to the film roofing material, and waterproofing on top of a double-sided vapor barrier film, with the absorbent side inward. From the bottom, the rafters are hemmed with a vapor-permeable windproof membrane.

The floor slab, that is, the horizontal part, must have several layers at once: insulation; vapor barrier layer; load-bearing beams with interior decoration... The device begins with the installation of the frame, namely the rafter system. Next, a vapor barrier double-sided membrane is attached to it in the specified way. Then they arrange a crate and lay a waterproofing layer. You can use classic roofing felt or special PVC films.

• Insulation outside. In order to insulate the balcony from the outside on your own, skills are required. It is not easy to do quality work on your own, taking into account the characteristics of the building. Finishing outside means saving up to thirty percent on heating. Remember that outdoor work is fraught with some difficulties: if the balcony is higher than the second floor, then industrial climbers will have to be involved in the work.

Before starting the insulation, obtain the consent of the officials from the architecture department. Appearance a balcony can ruin the overall picture, but if you finish in the same style as the entire building, then you can get permission. Outside insulation has a number of advantages:

• the reinforced concrete slab remains warm, humid air from the room freely passes through it and is released into the atmosphere;
• saving useful space;
• you can install a layer of thermal insulation of any thickness, this will not affect the inner space of the balcony in any way.

The materials can be used the same as for interior work. Preference is given to sprayed thermal insulation as the lightest and most effective. Experts recommend using polystyrene or expanded polystyrene. Mineral wool is sensitive to moisture penetration, so its installation requires special care and accuracy.

An independent procedure for insulating a balcony is difficult. All stages must be performed at a high level, otherwise the room will not be completely isolated. A glass, panoramic, stained-glass balcony is an excellent solution for a small space. Designers advise to connect it to the room for expansion. Glazed balcony connected to the kitchen on the top floor is a luxurious solution.

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Insulation for the balcony or 5 different options make your balcony warm

The days when a balcony or loggia were a traditional place for storing what is a pity to throw away are slowly receding. Now people increasingly prefer to turn this part of the apartment into a comfortable, cozy corner for relaxation. And here the first thing to do is to choose and install the insulation for the balcony correctly. Indeed, without insulation, you shouldn't even think about any comfort. In this article I will tell you about the 5 most simple, in my opinion, options for insulating a balcony with your own hands.

We decide on an action plan and materials

Before choosing an insulating material for a loggia or balcony, first of all, decide for yourself why you need it. It's one thing when you plan to go for a smoke break or just dry your clothes. And it is completely different if you want to equip a full-fledged living room.

Choosing which better material to insulate the room, it will be useful to remind how the balcony differs from the loggia. According to the norms of SNiP, a balcony is called a platform extended outside the facade and fenced off on three sides by a parapet. The loggia is part of the building, and the only parapet that separates it from the street is, in turn, considered part of the facade.

In the case when you want to turn your loggia into a full-fledged part of the living space, you will need a major, multi-level insulation:

• That is, it is not enough to insert plastic windows and seal all the cracks on the front parapet;
• You will also need to mount the capital insulation of the parapet itself, plus do not forget about the floor and ceiling. Otherwise, your efficiency will be within 30%.

The so-called light insulation implies ensuring a stable above-zero temperature on the loggia and the absence of drafts. Here you will only have to take care of plastic windows and high-quality arrangement of the front parapet. It is not necessary to insulate the floor and ceiling. Although, to be honest, I do not understand the meaning of such work, because in terms of capital investment it costs less than 20 - 30% cheaper.

Now let's take a quick look at what materials are generally used to insulate the balcony. In this case, we mean the type of insulation itself, I will tell you about the structural details later, when the installation instructions are given directly:

• According to my calculations, people insulate at least half of our balconies and loggias with good old foam. It has extremely low thermal conductivity, is not afraid of moisture and is quite easy to install. The people also fell in love with him for the most affordable price among all competitors.
  Of the significant drawbacks, one can only point out the flammability of the material. The fact that mice love foam plastic and is afraid of open sunlight is often not relevant for a loggia;

• Balcony insulation with expanded polystyrene, or rather extruded polystyrene foam, is gaining more and more popularity every year. Figuratively speaking, foam and extruded polystyrene foam are children of the same parents. Only expanded polystyrene has an immeasurably greater strength and absolutely does not let moisture through, but even steam. Everything would be fine, but the price of these plates is about 2 - 3 times higher than that of the old foam;

• For self-assembly such a wonderful material as isolon is also suitable. In some sources, it may be called penofol. In principle, this is the same thing, foamed polyethylene is taken as the basis here. It is produced in three versions, in pure form, with one-sided foil coating and with double-sided foil coating. There is a small nuance here - isolon as independent view insulation is used only in the case of light insulation of the balcony. Much more often, craftsmen mount isolon in combination with other materials;

• Anyone who was at least superficially interested in the intricacies of insulation of various kinds of structures should be aware of a wadded insulation. Previously, it was glass wool, now it has been replaced by basalt mats and other types of mineral wool. To be honest, you can insulate a balcony with mineral wool with your own hands, but of all the options, it is least suitable for these purposes. It's all about the high hygroscopicity of the material. The balcony is the place where temperature drops are most common. As a result, it accumulates in the insulation layer, which is detrimental to cotton wool;

• Thermal insulation of the balcony with polyurethane foam, penoizol and others modern views foam, very good thing. Everything is done quickly and efficiently, but roughly speaking, this method is suitable for the rich and lazy. You cannot apply foam with your own hands, the point here is not at all in your skill, just in addition to the foam itself, you will need serious equipment. Such units are expensive, and I have not heard of anyone renting them out.

Specifications	Insulation
	Mineral or glass wool	Styrofoam	Extruded polystyrene foam	Izolon
Medium density	15 - 140kg / m³	15 - 40kg / m³	30 - 200kg / m³	15 - 25kg / m³
Average coefficient of thermal conductivity	0.03–0.04 Vm ° K	0.03–0.04 Vm ° K	0.03–0.04 Vm ° K	0.04-0.05 Vm ° K
Moisture absorption	High up to 70%	0,3 – 0,5%	Cut line only 0.004%	5 – 7%
Vapor permeability	0.3 - 0.35 Mg / m.h. Pa	0.2 - 0.7 Mg / m.h. Pa	Zero	0.1 - 0.15 Mg / m.h. Pa
Flammability of the material (category according to SNiP)	NG	G3 - G4	D1	G1 - G2
average price	350 - 950rub	100 - 200 rubles	200 - 400 rubles	50 - 150 rubles

Technology for arranging balconies and loggias

Which insulation is best for the balcony in your case, you will have to decide for yourself. I will try to tell you in detail about the most accessible techniques for insulating a balcony, about how to do it yourself and, of course, what materials are needed besides the insulation itself.

Option number 1. Traditional foam insulation and the general organization of the process

As I said, polystyrene is deservedly considered a folk material. Any normal master will tell you that if you do not know how to choose the right inexpensive material, do not fool yourself, take polystyrene.

If you are going to equip normal, capital insulation, then there are no options better than metal-plastic windows at the moment. Various kinds of aluminum, glass sliding and budget types wooden windows, no matter how "smart" they seem to you, they are suitable only for light insulation of the balcony.

Any work of this kind begins with an assessment of the condition of the outer parapet. If this is a concrete or brick fence, then you can consider yourself in luck, you can mount anything on them.

With a metal lattice parapet, everything is a little more complicated:

• In relatively new houses, the condition of such fences is quite decent;
• If we are talking about Khrushchevs, then that twig with a thickness of 10 - 12 mm, from which these gratings were often cooked, is already pretty rusted. In an amicable way, it is better to cut it off and make a new grate.

Personally, I prefer to make a frame for such fences from a corner with a wing size of 45-50 mm. Even if there was no welding machine at hand, the safety margin of such a corner is enough to assemble everything on bolts, and you can safely attach it to the walls, ceiling and floor with ordinary anchors.

Some craftsmen cook the frame exclusively from a shaped square or rectangular pipe, with an average section of about 40 mm. It turns out, of course, beautifully:

• But, firstly, such a structure cannot be mounted without a welding machine;
• Secondly, shaped tube- this is an extra, wide cold bridge.

Now many owners lay out a capital parapet made of aerated concrete on their loggias. Aerated concrete is a good material, but hygroscopic and must be plastered. If you do not have the talents of a plasterer, but you want a capital basis, then take a brick.

When the issue with the parapet is resolved, you can proceed to insulating it with foam. On average, the density of the foam is 25 kg / m³, you should not take less, because it will crumble. And denser material is not needed, and it costs more. For the middle zone of our country, a sheet thickness of 50 - 75 mm is quite enough.

Styrofoam can be mounted under the lathing or glued. The choice here depends on what your parapet is made of and what kind of finishing you are planning. Mounting on glue is considered one of the most simple options... Before attaching a sheet of foam plastic to the wall on the balcony, the wall must be primed, and it is advisable to do this a couple of times.

There are many adhesives on the market today. But personally, I like the Ceresit CT83 dry adhesive mixture. It is intended for the installation of extruded polystyrene foam on brick and concrete surfaces... Since these heaters have the same base, Ceresit CT83 is also great for foam.

It is better to apply the adhesive with a notched trowel with a layer depth of 10 mm. If the surface is really curved, which is the case with brickwork, then instead of a spatula, you can "sprinkle" glue at five points and apply.

There is one subtlety here:

• If you are pasting walls with styrofoam from the outside, then they should be plastered. To do this, the same glue is applied to the sheet with the same notched trowel;
• After that, on this glue, while it has not frozen, a fiberglass mesh is applied and recessed;
• Next, it is necessary to additionally fix the sheets on the wall with plastic dowels with a wide head, the so-called umbrellas;
• When all this hardens and seizes securely, you can apply decorative or ordinary plaster. From the inside, everything is plastered in the same way.

Running a little ahead, I will say that the ceiling on a loggia or balcony is best also pasted over with foam:

• If you don't want to mess around with fixing the foam sheets with umbrellas on the ceiling, then I usually advise you to stick foil isolon over the foam, with the foil down. Usually, this is done using the Liquid Nails glue;
• For more massive types of topcoat, the foam will need to be fixed with “umbrellas”.

The second, no less popular type of polystyrene installation, is the crate. Do not be alarmed by the crate, in my opinion, it is even easier to mount. Here you will need wooden blocks the same thickness as the insulation of your choice. These bars will need to be rigidly fixed to the parapet frame.

Polyfoam is considered to be a partially vapor-permeable material, therefore, under it, more precisely even under a wooden crate, it will be necessary to mount a vapor barrier layer, but this is ideally, in reality, instead of a special vapor barrier membrane for foam, most craftsmen cover ordinary polyethylene.

Next, you cut out the sheets precisely according to the size of the niches you have obtained, insert them tightly between the wooden battens of the crate and, as usual, blow out all the cracks with polyurethane foam. This type of insulation, as a rule, is used for hinged options for finishing cladding, such as lining or PVC panels.

Option number 2. Working with extruded polystyrene foam

Most craftsmen, including myself, believe that extruded polystyrene foam is the most the best insulation when it comes to DIY installation. Of course, it is more expensive than polystyrene, but by and large, not much material is required on a balcony or loggia, this is not a facade cladding and not a basement insulation.

In general, the technology of mounting extruded polystyrene foam is not much different from foam insulation, just as it can be glued or mounted under the crate. But this material is much stronger, therefore, there are more opportunities here.

I will tell you how to equip the floor on the loggia in a separate chapter. Now we will talk about walls and ceilings. Extruded polystyrene foam weighs about the same as foam, but where it is supposed to install a foam sheet with a thickness of 50 mm, you can install extruded polystyrene foam of 30 - 40 mm. That is, the savings are about a third.

The vast majority of our balconies are small and every centimeter counts. Plus, it is not necessary to make a waterproofing layer under the extruded polystyrene foam, since it itself keeps moisture better than any waterproofing and absolutely does not let steam through.

You only need to firmly fasten the sheets, blow out all the gaps with polyurethane foam, and after you cut off the excess polyurethane foam, you will need to glue all the joints, as well as problem areas between the sheets with foil tape.

When the issue of a shortage of living space is acute, I recommend mounting extruded polystyrene foam on the walls and ceiling, and on top, as a finishing cladding, stick textured vinyl wallpapers or plastic lining.

Moreover plastic pvc the lining can be glued both on "Liquid nails" and on double-sided foamed tape. By the way, the option with scotch tape is more practical, it is easier to remove such a cladding if necessary, for example, if you need to replace a damaged PVC panel.

Option number 3. Light insulation with penofol

With foil foam, people insulate their balconies only when they are not going to make them heated. With such insulation, the balcony will be dry, outwardly attractive and, let's say, not very cold.

• Penofol or izolon was originally developed as an auxiliary insulation layer. Judge for yourself, its thickness rarely exceeds 10 mm, even taking into account the double-sided foil coating, such a heater is not able to withstand Russian frosts alone;
• Nevertheless, many are tightening their balconies with foil foam, just to keep from blowing or as a temporary option until there are means for more effective insulation;
• In such cases, I always recommend a crate. That is, stretch a layer of polyethylene waterproofing, on which wooden blocks with a thickness of about 50 mm are rigidly attached. And already on the bars to shoot with a stapler penofol or isolon.

True, metal furniture brackets are a thing, in this case, not particularly reliable, so here it is advisable to additionally nail foil foam foil with glazing beads to the guide bars.

This option is good because when funds and desire appear, you just need to remove the foam and insulate your balcony with the same extruded polystyrene foam or ordinary foam. 50mm thick battens will be more than enough.

Option number 4. For lovers of mineral wool

Although, in my opinion, this is not the most the best way balcony insulation, but many fundamentally choose exactly mineral wool... Regardless of what material you are going to use to insulate your balcony (glass wool, soft mineral wool mats or dense cotton slabs), you will have to mount the crate almost everywhere.

Professionals usually assemble such a crate from galvanized UD and CD profiles for. In principle, this is not a difficult matter, but skill is needed there, so I recommend for amateurs to use wooden bars for the lathing. The only difference between the lathing for cotton insulation and the lathing for polystyrene is its dimensions.

• As you remember, under the foam we took a bar equal to the thickness of the foam itself. Here you need to use a block 10 - 15 mm thicker than the insulation. This gap is needed for ventilation;
• You cannot put polyethylene instead of waterproofing here, it will "sweat" and give off moisture to cotton wool. You will have to buy a vapor barrier membrane. For those who do not know, this membrane allows steam to pass through in one direction, but not in the other.

According to all building laws, steam always moves from the premises to the street. In other words, when you install a vapor barrier membrane, look at which side is vapor permeable. This side must be different in color or marked. Otherwise, if you clog the steam in the room, there will be little use from this membrane.

After the membrane and the lathing are mounted, insulation can be laid between the strips. Both cotton mats and cotton slabs should be cut slightly wider than the distance between the battens of the battens (10 - 20 mm). Cotton wool is elastic and when you squeeze it a little, it will fit tightly into the niche of the crate.

According to the rules, cotton wool should be fixed on top with another layer of vapor barrier membrane. But in practice, it is most often simply tightened with a cord, so that it does not fall out over time. After that, you can sew up our crate with a topcoat.

Option number 5. Good old lining

At the moment, when facing and warming balconies, more and more often people return to the undeservedly forgotten lining, only now they began to call it eurolining. Although such strips differ from the Soviet version only in clearly defined dimensions.

Those who believe that the lining must necessarily be without knots are mistaken. The presence or absence of knots depends on the class of the material. If you need the highest class, then look for the Extra lining, in the Soviet interpretation it will be the first class.

Before you insulate and sheathe the balcony with eurolining, you will definitely need to fill the crate. Please note that if for insulation it does not matter in which direction the lathing bars are oriented, then the lining is stuffed perpendicular to the guides. In the case of a balcony, the lathing is mounted horizontally, and the lining is mounted vertically.

I already wrote above about heaters that can be mounted under the crate. Since the lining itself is not so much a heater as a finishing cladding, then I would rather briefly tell you about how it is mounted:

• Naturally, the guides should be set clearly on the plane, for this you have a level and your golden hands;
• Installation starts from the corner. All strips are connected according to the thorn-groove or dad-mom principle, that's what you like to call it;
• A spike is inserted into the corner and, at a distance of about 5 mm from the edge, is fixed on the crate with a special nail under the lining or a self-tapping screw;
• On the reverse side of the plank, where you have a groove left, a so-called kleimer is inserted into this groove and is also fixed on the battens of the battens. Kleimer is a small metal plate, the tongue of which clings to the edge of the lining groove, and the carrier plate is nailed to the lathing bar;

• The spike of the next bar is inserted into the groove of the already fixed one and, in the same way, is fixed at the back with a clip. Thus, from the corner, clockwise, the entire loggia is sewn up.

Regardless of what material the balcony was insulated with, I always recommend fixing foil foam foam or at least just a layer of ordinary foil under the lining. The foil will reflect heat radiation and the heating efficiency will be much higher. A steam room in a bathhouse is arranged according to approximately the same principle.

Floor insulation on a balcony or loggia

I specially highlighted this topic as a separate item, since it is possible to insulate the floor on the balcony using different technologies and different materials... A cold concrete floor is not a pleasant thing, and if the maximum insulation thickness of 50 mm is often taken for ceiling insulation, then on a floor of 50 mm this is the minimum from which one should start.

The easiest option, in my opinion, is to use foam. The reason here is that it even suits the crooked floors that are most often found on our balconies.

Any concrete floor on a balcony or loggia must first be waterproofed. Under foam plastic, as well as under dense mineral wool slabs, it is enough to cover the floor in two layers with technical polyethylene. Moreover, it is desirable to cover it with a single canvas with an overlap on the walls, to the level of the final floor.

After that, wooden logs are mounted on the floor across or along the balcony. In principle, this is the same crate, only on the floor.

If the ceilings are low, then we take logs and insulation 50 mm thick. And as a finishing coating, we fill a sheet of plywood of the "FK" brand with a thickness of about 16 mm. When the logs are installed every 30 - 40 cm, this sheet thickness is enough to support the weight of a strong, adult person. Then you can lay anything, linoleum, laminate, or just take it and paint it.

If the base, that is, the floors are perfectly flat, I recommend insulating them with extruded polystyrene foam. As I said, this material can easily withstand severe compressive loads. Here you will need:

• cover the floor with polyethylene;
• lay extruded polystyrene foam on top of it;
• foam up the gaps and seal the joints with foil tape;

• further, plywood or gypsum fiber board can be laid directly on the insulation. Since you are unlikely to be able to cover the entire floor with a single sheet, you need to cover it in 2 layers with a shift between the joints, according to the principle of brickwork. This kind of top plate is needed to evenly distribute the load.

A warm infrared floor on the balcony is also being set up:

1. On a continuous layer of extruded polystyrene foam, you will need to lay foam foil on both sides and glue the joints with foil tape;
2. Next, a film with infrared heating elements is laid on the penofol and connected into a chain (the floor kit includes a connection instruction);
3. From above all this "pie" is covered with a laminate.

And finally, another cheapest, but not the easiest option for arranging the floor on the loggia. Surely you have heard about such a heater as expanded clay... These are porous granules of clay foamed and fired at a temperature of 1200 ° C.

As you understand, fired clay is the same ceramics, therefore, the material is quite strong and durable. The only bad thing is that expanded clay absorbs moisture.

This option of floor insulation on the loggia is suitable only for owners of apartments with high ceilings, since the minimum layer of expanded clay pillow is about 100 mm. Ideally, it is advisable to pour 150-200 mm.

Plain polyethylene will not work under such a pillow. Here, it is desirable to equip capital roll waterproofing, of course, with access to the walls. If you want to save money, then you need to first apply bituminous mastic on the floor, and then lay roofing material on it.

But it is better to buy a roll-type waterproofing of the TechnoNIKOL type, although for its installation you will need gas-burner or blowtorch. Since the material is literally welded to the base.

After that, a claydite pillow of the thickness you need is poured and leveled with the rule. Then you can go in two equivalent ways. I prefer to use what is called a floating cover.

This is roughly the same as what we did when arranging the flooring on top of extruded polystyrene foam. On a leveled expanded clay pillow, sheets of gypsum fiber board or plywood are laid in 2 layers and fastened together with self-tapping screws.

According to the second option, you will need to fill in a reinforced cement-sand screed. That is, lay a lattice of metal reinforcement on expanded clay, then fill and level the screed with the rule. It is believed that the screed is more reliable, but to be honest, I did not notice much difference.

Output

Now you have 5 different options for insulating a loggia or balcony. To make it clearer for you, in the photo and video in this article I put additional material on the topic of insulation. If you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to help.

September 5, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

The loggia could well be called an additional room in the apartment, but, unfortunately, many use it only in the summer, since it initially does not have insulation, and no heating batteries are brought out there.

A modern way of insulation - spraying polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the walls with special equipment, and specialized companies are engaged in such insulation.

However, before inviting them to spray such insulation, the walls must be prepared by making a crate on them. It will be a kind of frame for a sprayed and expanding heat insulator, as well as for fixing decorative finishing material.

The advantage of this method of insulation is that when spraying, the material expands and closes all the cracks, making the surface absolutely not blown through, without cold bridges. Polyurethane foam covers not only the walls, but also the ceiling and floor.

Video - How is polyurethane foam spraying done

Loggia design solutions

I would like to show several options. Perhaps by starting the process of converting a cold room into a usable area, someone will be inspired by one of the ideas developed by the designers.

In this case, a standard loggia with a small footage is presented, transformed into cozy room recreation. Here you can retire with a book or laptop and delve into reading. If a large family lives in the apartment, usually each of its members is doing what they love, and sometimes it is difficult to find cozy place to sit in silence. The insulated loggia will be an ideal option for this.

In such a room, you can place a small TV and enjoy your favorite programs or sit with handicrafts, comfortably picking up your legs on a comfortable chair. The main thing is that there is extra space that can serve all family members in turn for doing what they love.

The original version - the loggia turns into a stylish bar

This option is suitable for apartments in which the door to the loggia is arranged in the kitchen. In this case, it can become a dining room, especially since the kitchens in the apartments are generally quite small.

If the apartment owners like to hold parties often, the loggia window sill can easily replace the bar counter.

You can also arrange a romantic dinner here. Evening city, which offers a wonderful view, and a pleasant summer air create the necessary mood for this. In winter, it's nice to sit at the counter, sipping coffee and looking at the opening wide panorama outside the window.

Glass sliding doors installed between the kitchen and the loggia will help to unite or delimit the premises, depending on the need.

In this version, it was combined with the living room, and the wall, which previously served as a dividing element between the two rooms, became unifying, as it was transformed into a comfortable table.

The area of ​​the former loggia in such a layout can be used as an office with a comfortable desk, as well as hobby activities when you do not want someone to interfere.

And, of course, combining the loggia and the room will increase the overall space by opening a large window. The room will be more illuminated, which will help save energy costs.

Additional living space can be adapted to various activities, for example, make a winter garden on the loggia, a workshop or a computer room. Therefore, if the apartment is equipped with a loggia, but it is not yet insulated, you urgently need to get down to business and expand the area of ​​your home due to the functionally unused premises.

Video - How the loggia is insulated

The value of additional square meters in a city apartment is difficult to overestimate. A loggia can be a cold storage island or a warm room to live in. But, in order for it to be fully used, you need to take care of ensuring an acceptable temperature in this room.

It has become the main task for those who want to expand the usable area of ​​the apartment.

The degree of insulation depends on the purpose of the room, as a living room or storage space.

And if the question of whether it is necessary to insulate the loggia has long been resolved, then there is still no consensus about the place of insulation.

Three directions for warming the loggia

• insulation of the loggia outside Is the preferred option. In this case, the freezing point is shifted to outside, i.e. towards the insulation, mounted outside the loggia. This will allow not only to insulate the surface of the wall, but also to preserve the bearing properties of the material from which it is built. In addition, the internal space of the loggia is saved.

  The only drawback of outdoor insulation is the cost of high-rise work (industrial mountaineering). For insulation outside, a rigid heat-insulating material (expanded polystyrene, foam) is used, which is covered with a polymer mesh and protected with a strong cement mortar and / or decorative plaster;

  Note. In some cases, the decision on whether it is possible to insulate the loggia from the outside is determined by the City Council. For example, if the house is of architectural value, it is prohibited to carry out external work that changes the appearance of the building.

• double-sided insulation and finishing of the loggia... It involves the installation of heat-insulating material outside and inside the loggia. Such a solution is not advisable in principle, since from the point of view of thermal efficiency, it does not matter from which side the work is carried out.

• insulation of the loggia from the inside. Internal insulation the most popular option, because there is an opportunity to do the work yourself. However, in this case, the useful space of the loggia decreases. Nevertheless, we will dwell on this option in more detail.

Do-it-yourself loggia insulation - step-by-step instructions with a photo

Simple technology for beginners with no construction experience.

Step 1 - Determining the need for insulation

Depending on the future purpose of the room, a decision is made on whether it is necessary to insulate the loggia from the inside or outside, what kind of insulation and what thickness will be used.

By definition, a loggia is a room in a building with one open side. This specificity makes it possible for owners to carry out insulation with lower financial costs compared to balcony insulation.

The fact is that only one side will need to be insulated - the parapet of the loggia. As for the rest of the parties, if they border on the heated rooms of the apartment, there is no need to carry out insulation.

Step 2 - The degree of insulation of the loggia

It is a mistake to believe that the glazing of the loggia with double-glazed windows is enough reliable way save heat in the room. In order to provide the desired temperature in the room with minimal costs, you need to take care of the thermal insulation of all surfaces: walls, floor, ceiling. It is better to do the work at the same time, but you can also do it in parts, the main thing is to follow the sequence.

Step 3 - Choosing insulation for the loggia

At first glance, the selection is not difficult. However, the variety of thermal insulation materials makes you wonder what is the best way to insulate the loggia from the inside.

• penofol(40-50 rubles / sq. M.). Refers to a group of semi-rigid heaters. It is distinguished by the presence of two layers: foamed polyethylene and foil, which will perform the function of a reflector (reflecting up to 97% of thermal energy). Warming a loggia with penofol is more justified than insulating a balcony with it, but despite this, the use of only penofol is quite a rare phenomenon;

• Styrofoam(2560-3200 rubles / cubic meter). Optimal price / quality ratio. It has excellent thermal insulation properties, is non-hygroscopic, does not require the use of films, and is easy to install. There is foam on the market with different densities (15, 25, 35 kg / m3) and different sheet thickness - 20-100 mm, which makes it possible to vary the thickness;

• expanded polystyrene(extruded foam or penoplex) (3500-5000 rubles / cubic meter). A newer generation of foams. While saving the advantages of foam, it is distinguished by a high density (40, 100, 150 kg / m3) and a groove-comb fastening system, which makes it possible to avoid cold bridges. Warming a loggia with penoplex is one of the most effective methods of thermal insulation, but its widespread use restrains its cost;

  Note. Warming the loggia with expanded polystyrene is advisable if you need to minimize the loss of space during the thermal insulation process.

• cotton wool... The representative of soft insulation. Mineral (400-500 rubles / pack = 5.76 sq. M.) Or basalt wool (650-720 rubles / pack. = 5.76 sq. M.) Are good because they make it possible to insulate a surface with irregularities or slots. In the line of heaters of this type, there are materials with different densities and prices. However, the general disadvantage of mineral wool is its susceptibility to moisture. This requires the use of waterproofing films;

• polyurethane foam... Heat-insulating material, which is sprayed onto the surface under pressure, allowing to fill the smallest gaps. Insulation of the loggia is carried out quickly, but expensive;

• expanded clay... Loose insulation. It has a significant weight and can only be used for floor insulation;

• aerated concrete... Allows you to level the walls and insulate them, but the usable area decreases.

With the exception of expanded clay and aerated concrete, each of the heaters can be used to insulate the loggia.

Factors affecting the choice of insulation:

• the technical condition of the surfaces to be insulated: their configuration, the height of the floor raising / lowering of the ceiling, the condition of the ceiling;

• the number of surfaces to be insulated. Often, the wall adjacent to the room is not insulated;

• climate. In regions with high humidity, it is undesirable to use soft insulation;

• environmental friendliness. Polyfoam is considered the least environmentally friendly material, basalt wool is the most;

• ease of installation. Rigid insulation is easier to install. When using them, you can do without the formation of a crate for laying soft cotton wool. Also, there is no need to use films. The best qualities in terms of installation are polystyrene foam, thanks to the groove-comb system;

• type of finishing coating;

• project cost: loggia insulation on a turnkey basis or with your own hands.

Step 4 - Preparing Materials and Tools

For work, you need to prepare: heat-insulating material, foam, primer, wooden beams (50x50, for the floor) and slats (50x30, for installing the battens under soft insulation), a film of steam and waterproofing (for soft insulation), hardware, metallized tape, Decoration Materials.

From the tool: puncher, drill, level, hammer, tape measure, foam gun, vacuum cleaner, stapler, pliers, pencil.

Note. Wooden beams can be replaced with a drywall profile. The dimensions of the timber are determined by the thickness of the insulation.

Step 5 - glazing the loggia

Glazing and insulation of loggias are two interdependent actions. When installing plastic windows, you need to give preference to a 4-chamber profile and a 2-chamber double-glazed window. During installation, you need to monitor the tightness of all structures. Outside, the installation of an ebb is mandatory, which avoids water infiltration. A window sill is installed inside, taking into account the thickness of the insulation.

Installation of PVC windows makes it possible to increase the temperature on the loggia by 2-3 degrees compared to the temperature outside the window.

If it is not possible to replace old windows, they can be sealed. It is better to insulate the windows of the loggia using Swedish technology. It makes it possible to increase the thermal insulation properties of the window without changing their functional characteristics.

Step 6 - surface preparation

Whatever type of insulation is carried out on the loggia, due to its small area, it must be freed from all strangers. It is for this reason that it is advisable to insulate the entire loggia at the same time.

Then the actions necessary for further work are performed:

• removal of protruding parts that can be dismantled;

• chipping and drilling of walls. If necessary, electrification of the loggia;

• handling of items that cannot be dismantled. The metal is cleaned and primed;

• primer treatment of all surfaces of the loggia. This will prevent the development of the fungus;

• cleaning.

Step 7 - Insulation of the floor on the loggia

It is advisable to start insulation work from the floor.

Regardless of the material, it is performed on lags. An exception is the laying of insulation with subsequent screed under the tiles or when installing a warm floor system. The work is carried out in several stages:

• penofol installation... This is not necessary, but the masters advise to lay penofol with the reflective side up. Due to the reflectivity of penofol, almost all the heat that comes from the wall adjacent to the room or from a heating source remains in the room;

• installation lag... Before starting the installation, the timber must be cut to size and treated with a primer. The longitudinal beam is laid at a distance of 50-70 mm from the walls, and the transverse one with a step equal to the width of the insulation (for foam plastic 500 mm, for cotton wool and expanded clay - 600 mm.). The bars are attached to the floor with dowels. When installing the lags, they monitor the correctness of their fastening, in the future they will serve as a guide for arranging the floor and installing a clean floor covering.

  Note. Installing the logs close to the wall increases the risk of deformation of the wood if it gets wet.

• installation of insulation... Rigid insulation is placed between the logs. When insulating the loggia with foam or polystyrene, it is not recommended to use thick material. Craftsmen advise purchasing thinner sheets and stacking them with an offset. This minimizes the surface of the cold bridges. Cotton wool is also placed between the joists so that the material can be laid freely without knocking down. A vapor barrier film is laid on top of the cotton wool to prevent it from getting wet.

• joint sealing... If a rigid insulation is laid with gaps, they need to be blown out with polyurethane foam, which is a good insulator.

• arrangement of the subfloor... It is not recommended to lay laminate or linoleum before the end of the work. If the floor is tiled, it is mounted immediately and protected (covered) with cardboard.

Note. The use of the underfloor heating system will provide heating of the loggia, because it is forbidden to take out central heating radiators, and the use of a heater does not give a long-term effect.

Step 8 - Insulating the ceiling on the loggia

This stage can be excluded if the floor of the neighbors from above is insulated. If not, then the most simple solution there will be insulation of the loggia with polyurethane foam. It adheres well to any surface, and the work can be done in a day.

Often, the insulation of the ceiling on the loggia is carried out with rigid insulation, less often with cotton wool. The order of work may vary.

Option 1 - frame method of thermal insulation of the ceiling on the loggia

• installation of penofol. It is known from the physics course that warm air rises upward. And in order not to warm the floor to neighbors from above, it is advisable to install penofol on the ceiling;

• arrangement of the frame. For work, wooden slats are used, with a thickness equal to the thickness of the insulation;

• the insulation is placed in the cells of the frame. If cotton wool is used, a vapor barrier film is additionally mounted;

• performed finishing ceiling.

Option 2 - "wet" way to insulate the ceiling on the loggia

If the base of the ceiling is flat, you can glue hard insulation to it. Additional fixation will be provided by the use of dowels with a large head. Places of abutment of sheets of insulation are foamed with foam. For an additional effect, penofol is installed.

Option 3 - insulation of the suspended ceiling on the loggia

Lay insulation (usually cotton wool) on the ceiling finishing material. Suitable for false ceiling or finishing the ceiling with laminate or plastic panels.

Step 9 - Insulating the wall on the loggia

Warming the walls of the loggia is the simplest stage. However, it has an important feature, namely: the walls of the loggia are insulated in different ways.

• the wall adjacent to the room is insulated in one layer;

• the outer wall is insulated in two layers or a thicker heat-insulating material is used. Moreover, it fits in pieces, and always with an offset.

Similar to work on the ceiling, there are two methods of insulation: "wet" and frame:

• "wet"- suitable for rigid insulation and the only one possible for aerated concrete. Often this method is used to insulate the loggia with penoplex.

• wireframe- compulsory for soft materials. Without a frame, it is impossible to insulate the loggia with cotton wool. The frame can be made of wood or metal profile... The technology of laying cotton wool on the wall does not differ from its installation on the ceiling or floor. The protection of the cotton wool is provided by the installation of the film.