Rough floor in the bath with your hands. Concrete screed on a wooden floor

The floor in the bathhouse has many important differences from the floors in various other rooms. First of all, the bath floor must be completely safe for movement in conditions of constantly high humidity and temperature.

In addition, the floor simultaneously serves as an element of the sewer system - provided that it is properly arranged, the structure will provide full water drainage. Thanks to this, the floor will remain intact and reliable for much longer.

Traditionally, wood and concrete are used for the manufacture of the sauna floor. Check out the features of each option and choose the one that suits you. You can handle the arrangement of any type of design with your own hands.

Before you start, select suitable material for the arrangement of the floor, and also decide on the preferred type of construction.

Manufacturing material

As already noted, in bath buildings, floors are made of wooden elements or concrete.

It will take more time, effort and money to arrange a concrete floor, but such a structure will last much longer than its wooden counterpart.

The construction of a lumber floor requires minimal time, labor and money, but after 5-10 years of operation, the elements of such a structure will have to be changed.

Wood floors are classified into leaking and non-leaking varieties.

Leaking floor

The most budgetary and simple design for self-arrangement. Such a floor looks like a boardwalk, the elements of which are laid at intervals to drain water from the bath into the ground.

Any additional devices, except perhaps an elementary one drainage system underground, not provided. Thermal insulation of such a floor is also not performed. In view of this, it is recommended to give preference to leaking structures only for the owners of baths in the southern regions. Also, such a floor will be appropriate in a summer cottage, which is used from time to time.

A leaking floor for a bath is extremely simple in independent arrangement. Repair and self replacement worn out components will also not cause any difficulties. In this design, the boards are not fixed to the lags, so in the future the owner will be able to remove them without any problems and take them out of the room to the street for better drying.

Optionally, instead of the traditional underground backfill, you can use a pallet, the liquid from which will be discharged into some suitable object of the sewer system.

Equipping such a floor is somewhat more difficult compared to a leaking analogue. Such a system is laid out from two rows of high-quality wooden planks... For laying the first row, use a larch or pine board. The finishing row is laid on logs, previously placed on reliable supports. Boards of this row should be of the highest quality possible, without the slightest knots and gaps.

A sub-floor is set up under the upper deck. You can use insulation. The floorboards of the roughing section should be placed with some slope in the direction of collection. Wastewater and further disposal of waste into a septic tank or sewer ditch.

To ensure the drainage of wastewater at the bottom point of the flooring, a hole of suitable dimensions must be made for connecting a siphon.

"Pie" of the concrete floor in the steam room

Arrangement of the capital floor involves the formation of a kind of "pie", which includes six main "layers", namely:

  • properly prepared for further concreting, high-quality rammed and hardened earth base;
  • the first concrete pouring... Usually a layer with a thickness of 50 mm is made;
  • thermal insulation material. Expanded clay backfill is most often used;
  • reinforcing concrete layer with mesh;
  • leveling layer;
  • topcoat.

Soil, thermal insulation and each concrete layer - all this must have a slope in the direction of the drain pit, that is, the floor structure must be equipped with a normal bath drain. The slope is standard - about 10 degrees.

Choose a suitable flooring scheme. First, think about what kind of stove you will install in your steam room and whether you need a separate foundation to place it. The base for the stove unit is best created at the stage of arranging the bath floor.

Wooden floor. Features of installation of leaking and non-leaking floors

The erection of a floor from logs and boards is carried out in several stages. Follow each one in sequence and you will get a reliable coating with excellent performance properties.

The first stage - supports

There is practically nothing complicated in the independent arrangement of a wooden floor. Prepare high-quality wooden bar section 150x150 mm. Boards will be attached to it.

The logs will experience a fairly high load, so they can be placed exclusively on supports. For the manufacture of such supports, it is allowed to use brick or reinforced concrete. The posts must be at least 150 mm thick. The racks themselves are also supported by additional platforms. The width of such a platform should be approximately 70 mm wider than the width of the support post.

Select the height of the racks in accordance with the height of the foundation. In the case of a strip foundation, the posts should be placed flush with the edge of the base, in the case of columnar foundation make the posts so that their upper ends are flush with the upper ends of the posts.

All supports are subject to mandatory waterproofing. For protection from moisture, bitumen or roofing material is usually used. Wooden elements of the structure are imperatively impregnated with an antiseptic.

Second stage - underground

Start filling the underground space. If the floor of the bath flowing, sprinkle about a 25 cm cushion of rubble on the bottom of the subfloor. If the soil at the construction site does not absorb liquid well, be sure to install a separate container of suitable volume to collect wastewater.

When erecting non-leaking floor instead of gravel, expanded clay should be used. Make the height of the backfill such that its upper edge does not reach the lag by about 150 mm - this is the required ventilation gap. Tamp down the backfill thoroughly.

The third stage - logs and boards

Move on to laying the log. If done flowing floor, you can start laying them from any wall you like. If the floor non-leaking, mount the logs with a slope towards the drain.

Lay the logs on the supporting elements prepared for them. For additional security, you can fasten the joists to the supports using any suitable fasteners.

Start laying the boards. If the floor is impervious, first equip the base (draft) base with moisture insulation and insulation, and already on top of it, lay the grooved boards. Direct the groove of the boards into the steam room. Use nails, screws or other suitable fasteners to attach the boards to the joists.

The plank floor does not need finishing.

Important: the wood in the steam room must not be treated with any paints and varnishes.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor has many important advantages over wooden counterparts, among which the following points must be highlighted:

  • resistance to temperature extremes and high humidity;
  • long service life;
  • unpretentious care and handling;
  • resistance to decay, corrosion, mechanical and other damage.

Arrangement

Thoroughly compact the soil and form a roughly 15 cm cushion of rubble soaked in bitumen on top of it. The crushed stone will help distribute the load evenly.

Consider insulation. You can make a two-layer base with an insulating base layer, form an insulating layer over the concrete and put a topcoat on top, or you can install a floor heating system.

Most often, the option with double concrete placement is chosen. Pour the bottom layer from the solution using coarse gravel (30-35 mm). This layer will be 15 cm thick.

If the steam room has a small area, the screed can be poured over the entire base at once. Otherwise, it will be more convenient to divide the space into meter strips using guides.

It is important that the screed is as even and high quality as possible.

Let the concrete dry and lay or sprinkle the selected insulation material over it.

Regardless of what kind of insulation you decide to use for thermal insulation of the floor, the insulation material is laid on a pre-equipped moisture-proof layer. For waterproofing, roofing material or polyethylene is usually used. If you wish, you can buy some modern coating solution.

Warming, as already noted, is carried out after the first layer of the concrete floor has dried. Expanded clay, boiler slag, mineral wool in slabs (mats), polystyrene and other similar materials are perfect for thermal insulation.

Each of the listed materials has both a number of important advantages and some disadvantages. For example, in expanded clay gravel rather high cost, however, for arranging an interlayer with the necessary thermal insulation properties of expanded clay, it will take much less than the same slag.

Styrofoam characterized by remarkable thermal insulation properties, however, the service life of such insulation in a bath leaves much to be desired.

Mineral wool insulation also have excellent performance, but are not environmentally friendly.

Thus, each insulation has its own disadvantages. Therefore, the final choice is always with the user.

For the finishing of the concrete floor, tiles or mosaics are traditionally used. In the case of laying tiles, in most cases, you can refuse to pour the second layer of concrete, replacing it with a self-leveling mixture.

Cover the thermal insulation layer with a waterproofing material of your choice. Pour a 1.5-2 cm layer of a special self-leveling compound over the insulation. Such a fill will be an excellent base for a tile finish.

Use a specially designed adhesive for fixing the tiles. Cover the entire planned surface, let the glue dry and grind the tile joints.

Before pouring the self-leveling mixture, you can lay the elements of the underfloor heating system. However, in traditional Russian couples and Finnish saunas this is usually not necessary, but, for example, in a Turkish hammam, a heated floor will be more than appropriate.

Now you can customize the floor in your steam room. At the same time, you have a choice - you can make both a beautiful wooden floor and a permanent and durable concrete floor. It all depends solely on your personal preferences and the peculiarities of using the bath. Choose suitable option and proceed.

Happy work!

Video - DIY bath floors

Filling the floor on the ground is the simplest and reliable way arrangement of a bath, it excludes the presence of wooden structures, which significantly increases the service life of the building.

In terms of complexity and cost, the work belongs to the middle segment and consists of three stages.

Filling stagesShort description

A very important stage, the problem with the drainage of water from the bath is being solved. All work should be done correctly, otherwise the wooden structures are affected by mold and rot. In the most difficult cases the foundation can be undermined, the consequences of such a situation are the most unpleasant.

The structure consists of several layers, each of them fulfills its own important function. The number and parameters of layers can be adjusted depending on the geodetic characteristics of the soil and the climatic zone of the location of the building.

The choice of materials depends on the wishes of the owner. Modern technologies, in addition to ordinary floors, they allow you to arrange coatings with electric heating - the comfort of taking water procedures is significantly improved.

To facilitate independent work, we will give detailed instructions performing each stage of pouring concrete floors. Having this information, each developer can make their own changes to them, taking into account the wishes and possibilities.

Step 1. Make a drainage plan, taking into account the location of the steam room, changing room and other premises. At the same time, carefully consider the installation location of the water receiver, if one is supposed to be done. The receiver can be made from an ordinary metal or plastic barrel with a volume of about 100-200 liters; holes should be cut on the sides and bottom of the container using a grinder.

Step 2. Dig trenches according to the diagram drawn up. Observe the slope, the difference in height per linear meter should be about 1–2 cm. There is no need to use special devices, the slope can be checked by eye or using an ordinary level.

Step 3. Trim the bottom and tuck plastic pipes... It is not necessary to make a sand bed, the depth of the trenches is insignificant, the sewage system will not experience much pressure. If we take the drain level in the steam room as a zero mark, then the maximum depth of the trench at the exit from the bath, 6 m wide, will be about 25–30 cm. There is no need to be afraid that the water will freeze in winter. First, it is warm. Secondly, the slope provides a complete drain, the pipes are always empty, there is nothing to freeze.

How can the bubble level control the slope of the pipes?

  1. Place the device on a level surface, take a ruler and place it to the level at a distance of 50 cm from the beginning.
  2. Raise the device until the gap between it and the plane is equal to a centimeter.
  3. Visually remember the position of the bubble on the scale or use a marker to make a mark. In the future, when checking the slope of the pipes, use the mark made.

Step 4. Assemble the drain inlet and attach it to the pipe. To facilitate the assembly process, you can use soap, soapy water, or sunflower oil. Wet rubber seals with these fluids. It is strictly forbidden to use automobile oil for this purpose - the rubber in the seals is ordinary, the automobile oil will spoil it, you will have to completely change it.

Step 5. Check the functionality and serviceability of the drain. To do this, put water in a liter jar, put the same empty container at the exit sewer pipe... Pour water into the receiver and see how much it poured out of the drain. If the volume is much less than the filled one, then this means that the pipe is laid with differences in height, water is retained in uneven areas.

Practical advice. If less than 500 ml is delayed from a liter, then there is no need to redo the sewage system, minor oversights will not affect the performance of the structure. If there is more than 500 ml of water left in the pipe, then you need to find the problem area and eliminate the marriage.

Everything is normal - fill up the trench, thoroughly ram every 10 cm of soil height. For ramming, you can use any convenient means at hand.

It is advisable to slightly moisten the earth before compaction. Be aware that subsidence under the concrete layer can cause big problems... After installing the drain, you can continue further construction works.

Prices for the range of septic tanks "Termit"

Termite septic tank

Stage two. Pouring concrete

Prepare materials, tools and equipment. For pouring, you will need gravel, sand, cement, a concrete mixer, as a rule, a container for mortar, a trowel and a level. The amount of materials depends on the size of the bath and the thickness of the concrete. The minimum pouring height cannot be less than 10 cm. To increase the stability of the structure, it is recommended to use structural reinforcement with a periodic profile with a diameter of 6–8 cm or metal meshes.

Preparatory work

Step 1. Remove fertile soil and large debris from the site. If possible, treat the soil special means to prevent weed growth.

Step 2. Using a laser or water level, mark the floor around the perimeter of the foundation. It is from this mark that the depth of concrete placement and the thickness of all layers will be controlled. Calculate the parameters and, if necessary, deepen the pit. The earth can be removed by hand, and the level of the bottom surface should be constantly checked.

Step 3. Start backfilling the excavation with gravel.

The thickness of the material is within 15–20 cm. It should be covered in layers of about 10 cm, then the gravel is leveled and rammed. Leveling is much easier with an ordinary metal rake.

It is recommended to use screening with fine gravel for the first layer, it compresses better and holds the load. If the floors are poured in several rooms of the bath, then work should be started from the most distant one, the material can be transported along wooden ladders. This sequence eliminates the need to re-level the bedding.

Step 4. Each layer of bedding must be tamped separately. This can be done manually or using a special unit. Working manually is long and difficult, and the quality can be unsatisfactory, professionals recommend using vibratory plates.

You should go through one place at least three times, pour in large depressions at once, remove the bumps. The smoother the backfill, the less expensive concrete will be needed to fill the floor.

Step 5. After tamping, a layer of crushed stone of fraction No. 10–20 with a thickness of 10–15 cm should be poured. After leveling, tamping follows, the algorithm for performing the work is the same as for fine crushed stone with screening.

Practical advice. You should not use crushed stone of large fractions, it is much more difficult to work with it, and there is no noticeable positive effect.

The thickness of each layer should be controlled according to the marks previously made on the foundation tape.

Step 6. Prepare the last layer, you can use sand or fine screenings for it. Choose the material that is cheaper in your area, from a practical point of view, there is no difference. Tamp down thoroughly after leveling. It is advisable to moisten the last layer with water and let it stand for at least one day, during which time the bedding will sit down, gaps and other problem areas will be found. They must be immediately removed and re-tamped.

Step 7. Install the beacons according to the selected screed thickness. Beacons are much easier to set up with a laser level. Drive wooden pegs or pieces of metal bar into the bed along the line of the beam. If there is no laser level, then the extreme beacons can be set according to the water level, then pull the rope between them and adjust all the remaining ones in height. The distance between the beacons is 40–50 cm. The width of the lines should be 15–20 cm less than the dimensions of the float.

Step 8. Use a mesh reinforcement to increase the strength of the concrete floor. Lift it above the bedding, the mesh should be approximately 1/3 of the concrete height. Building codes forbid it to be placed in the middle of concrete; in this position, it does not reinforce the structure. To raise the mesh, you can use various pads or pour some concrete under it with a shovel and tear it off the ground with your hands.

Step 9. Pour concrete over a row of pegs.

Important. The concrete should be mobile but not runny. Observe the recommended proportions of the components; in most cases, the mass requires one part of cement for three parts of gravel and two parts of sand. But this is an optional recipe, if a more durable coating is required, then the amount of cement increases by 15–20% and vice versa. There are marks on the basement of the bath, opposite which the pegs of the lighthouses were hammered. Using a trowel, smooth out the concrete a little and make dashes over the pegs, they will help you navigate when laying the batten.

Step 10. Put in place metal or wooden slats, carefully check their position, the quality of the concrete floor depends on the correctness. Move rivers with left / right movements until they completely shrink. Raise the reinforcing mesh, adjust the position of the battens again.

Practical advice. In our case, the water will be drained in the middle of the steam room or washing room. Such a device requires the floor to be at an angle towards the drain. This condition is fulfilled when laying ceramic tiles. Concreting floors with a slope towards the center is very difficult, keep this in mind while performing work.

In order not to damage the hammered pegs during concreting, it is recommended to cover them with bricks on both sides.

What is the quickest and easiest way to pour a concrete floor? There are several recommendations from experienced builders.

To facilitate the process make a gutter for the concrete mixer, along it the mass will be directed to the right place. To prevent the gutter from pressing the reinforcing mesh to the backfill, place a piece of brick under it and lift it up.

During work constantly move the mesh into the concrete layer, lift it off the ground. Use a shovel to alternately throw concrete between the two lines, the thickness of the material should slightly exceed the height of the beacons.

Recommended first, make a rough straightening of the mass with a shovel and a trowel... Due to this, the rule pulls together less concrete, it is much easier to work, the surface is even, even after one pass. If the network is hollow, then pour a mass into them and re-walk the rule.

It is physically difficult to pour a concrete floor by hand; you have to constantly work in an inclined position. Today, there are very practical knee pads, we advise you to buy and use them. They will allow you to change the position of the body as you get tired.

Do not sprinkle the mixture over a large area.- very difficult to edit. The width of the section should allow you to easily reach the edges with your hands in a kneeling position.

Raise the net again after each alignment. During walking, it constantly lowers, if the reinforcement lies on the bedding, then there will be no increase in the strength of the floor, remember this. Use the same method to screed the entire room.

Experienced builders use the 2.5-3 meter rule; lighthouses are made at about the same distance. Due to this, not only does the pouring speed significantly increase, but the surface becomes smoother. An additional condition is that the rule should be quite rigid and not bend in the middle while pulling off excess concrete, otherwise small depressions will form between the lines. For accurate pouring, this is unacceptable, but it is not a problem for a finishing leveling screed.

While working with the rule you need to constantly clean the slats from pebbles, the plane of the instrument should not bounce. Remember that it always takes much less time to follow the recommendations than to eliminate the marriage. Do not try to simplify the technology yourself, such experiments do not lead to anything good.

Do not pull up a large block of concrete. The rule will necessarily bend, the surface will have to be trimmed several times. If you are a little mistaken with the amount of concrete poured between the beacons, it doesn’t matter. As soon as the rule has collected a large volume, scatter the mass with a trowel over the free places and only then continue to pull it together.

Leveling the mortar with the rule - photo

It takes approximately 14 days for the concrete to harden according to the current regulations., during this time it gains at least 50% of its maximum strength, which allows it to continue construction work. Inexperienced builders try to continue working on the floor after a few days, once the structure can support their weight. We strongly discourage doing this. The fact is that immature concrete gives microcracks, which are invisible to builders at first. But then, over time, microcracks will certainly increase in size, the strength of the structure will not correspond to the expected parameters. The consequences of haste can be the most unpleasant.

Concrete floors do not remain in this state, they must be completed. There is several options for finishing coat.

  1. Wooden logs or slats are laid on concrete, boards are laid on top.
  2. The floors are finished with ceramic tiles. If the concrete is poured correctly and evenly, no screed is required. If during the production of work the technology was violated or the master does not have enough practical experience, then you will have to make a leveling screed.

Video - DSP screed with a slope to the ladder

We will take a quick look at the option of a concrete floor covered with ceramic tiles.

Stage three. Finishing the concrete floor

As we already mentioned, the drain should be located at the lowest point of the floor. It is allowed to install it not only in the center of the room, but also against one of the walls. The decision should be made taking into account the placement of shelves for the steam room or shower room, structural features, etc.

Important. There is no need to make the slope of the pavement too large, just a few millimeters per linear meter. In any case, the water will all go away, and it will become much easier to work. One more important nuance- too much slope creates difficulties during the adoption of water procedures.

There are recommendations from some builders to make a floor in a heated bath. Of course, you can listen to them, but we do not recommend doing this. Why? Firstly, the floor in the bath is already warm; in principle, it cannot be cold. Secondly, electrically heated floors require special wiring, the total capacity of the installation exceeds 5–7 kW. For rooms with high humidity, there are very strict PUE safety requirements, it is difficult and expensive to fulfill them in full. Thirdly, if you are afraid that your feet will freeze, then it is much easier to make wooden trellises. Put them not only in the bathhouse, but also in the dressing room and other rooms. It will be very cheap, it will become comfortable to wash.

Keep in mind that the larger the tiles, the more difficult it is to lay them on a slope. All corners are located in different planes; it will not be possible to make the joints smooth. The best option is to use mosaic tiles. This material makes it possible to make any turns and tilts, a large number of small plates correct minor errors.

How to install ceramic tiles with a uniform slope?

Step 1. Take four tiles, place them at the corners on the drain and mark the diameter of the hole on them. Using a grinder with a diamond disc, carefully cut the holes.

Step 2. All tiles at the drain must slope in two directions. We have already mentioned that there is no need to make a large angle, a few millimeters are enough. Small slopes can be done with glue, for large ones you will first have to deal with the screed or use a cement-sand mortar for gluing.

Step 3. Throw the material under the surface of the first tile, put it in place and gradually sink it with your hands so that the drain point is as low as possible. Check the amount of slope immediately. In the same way, lay the remaining tiles at the drain, making sure that they all slope towards the hole.

Step 4. Finish the first row, with only one plane to be controlled between adjacent tiles. This is much easier than setting two planes at the same time.

Step 5. The position of the tiles of the second row must be controlled by two parameters. Edges should be in the same plane with the first row and be parallel to each other.

Practical light. In order for the tiles not to move spontaneously, the mortar should be made a little thicker than usual.

First, it is recommended to lay out four tiles around the perimeter of the drain, to allow time for the glue to harden. The fact is that these tiles will be used as a template in the future; any displacement is strictly not allowed. On the first tiles, the position of the rest is constantly monitored; the load on them during the production of work is the greatest.

Step 6. Further work is recommended to continue in parallel rows. If you have concerns in your qualifications, you can increase the area of ​​the square area by alternately laying out tiles on each side of the square. Such an algorithm requires much more time, but it allows you to correct mistakes made in time. For beginners, it is advisable to first make a dry layout of the tiles, and instead of glue, use coasters of various thicknesses.

Tile markup

The larger the floor area, the greater the length should be at the level. The tool must simultaneously monitor the position of at least three tiles, this is the only way to avoid kinks. The seams are closed after the glue has completely hardened, with their help you can slightly smooth out the sharp joints of the tiles.

This completes the work on pouring the concrete floor in the bath, you can start finishing the interior surfaces of the room.

Video - Laying tiles with a slope under the drain

The bathhouse is a special room when it comes to the microclimate at the time of its direct operation. There is high humidity and the same temperature. Although the baths are different, both in the number of rooms related to it, and in the characteristics of the microclimate, mainly of them - the steam room. Somewhere the steam is dry and the temperature is over 100˚C (sauna), in another case there is moisture, but the air temperature is lower, within 70˚C (Russian bath). How can such features affect the choice of a method for arranging floors in these rooms, and how to make a suitable option with your own hands? These and some other issues related to floors in the bath will be the topics of this article.

What gender is preferable in the bath?


You can simply wash yourself in the bathroom or under the shower. The bathhouse, regardless of its type, is intended, rather, for recreational activities and positive emotions. Therefore, it is important that everything is as natural and natural as possible. So any polymers in the outer finish bath rooms, especially in the steam room, disappear. The same goes for flooring materials.

The second requirement for a floor covering is the ability to withstand changes in temperature and humidity. These figures, again, depend on the type of steam room.

The third condition is comfort during tactile contact with the floor material. It should be of an acceptable temperature, since it is not customary to wear shoes in the bath. This factor depends not only on the coating itself, but also on the quality of the thermal insulation barrier.

What flooring materials meet all three requirements? These are wood products and tiles. The latter is suitable for a wet steam room with a relatively low temperature; wood will be the best in a sauna, where dry air is provided. The tile for a Finnish bath is not suitable, as it will heat up to such a temperature that it will be impossible to step on it. Wood products will not last long with constant moisture. It is undesirable to process them with all kinds of impregnations, as this will have to breathe. The wooden floor is still made in Russian baths. But at the same time, you should select more durable types of wood (aspen, larch), or be ready to replace the flooring in a few years.

The wooden floor is laid along the logs; for laying the tiles, you need to make a screed. Are there any features of the base arrangement under the tiles in the bath, and which of them should be taken into account? More on this later.

Features of the screed in the bath


The base of the floor under the tiles in this room, in the overwhelming majority of cases, is done on the ground. Based on this, the first two activities to consider are the following:

  • isolation from soil moisture;
  • creation of a thermal insulation barrier, especially if it is supposed to be used in winter.

Another feature of the screed, when compared with living quarters, will be the creation of a slope of the surface towards the sewer water intake. This will prevent water from accumulating on the surface and forming uncomfortable puddles.

What material to choose for the device roughing and finishing sub-floors? Taking into account the usually small volumes and not too strict requirements for the surface, designed for laying tiles, in either case, classic concrete is quite suitable. If desired, for the finishing layer, you can use a liquid or semi-dry cement-sand mixture instead of concrete. It is advisable to strengthen the finishing layer with reinforcement, especially if there is a layer of insulation below.

Are there any special requirements for the concrete base in the bath, taking into account the characteristics of the microclimate? If the surface of the screed were the final floor surface, then it might be worth it to additionally provide it with moisture repellency. Given that this is now unlikely and tiles will be laid on top, moisture will not affect the base in any way.

When it comes to temperature extremes, there are options. Heat in a wet steam room, the structure and durability of concrete or other similar material will not be reflected in any way, since the heat goes up. The screed here will warm up to 40 ° C as much as possible. This is absolutely not a critical temperature for any cement-based mortar.

It is another matter if at least minimal heating is not provided in the bath, and in winter the temperature in the room will drop much below 0˚С (summer cottage option). Then, when making a mixture for a concrete screed, it is worth adding substances that improve frost-resistant qualities to it, and with the subsequent laying of tiles, purchase an appropriate glue.

DIY rough base device


In both finishing options flooring(both wood and tiles), the first step is to create a rough screed, which would become a reliable, solid foundation for the structural elements of the floor that will be located higher. Therefore, the below step-by-step instruction applicable in both cases. To carry out the work, you will need the following tools:

  • concrete mixer or container for manual mixing of concrete;
  • manual or mechanical ramming;
  • water ( laser level);
  • rule;
  • half-trowel or trowel;
  • earthwork tools.

Materials should be prepared as follows:

  • large crushed stone (gravel);
  • fine gravel (fraction 1-1.5 cm);
  • river (washed) sand;
  • cement grade 400;
  • dense plastic film.

Now about the sequence of the device of the rough sub-floor on the ground.

  1. Surface soil layers are carefully compacted and leveled.
  2. A bedding is made. First, a layer of gravel, then fine gravel, half with sand. With a thickness of the proposed insulation of 50 mm, upper layer shallow bedding should be 15-17 cm below the desired level of the finishing screed.
  3. The fine bedding is leveled, a plastic film is laid on top with an overlap on the walls to the level of the upper edge of the finishing base. If the film is not continuous, the adjacent areas overlap by about 15 cm. The film will serve as a hydro-barrier in the path of ground moisture, and will also prevent moisture from leaving the concrete.
  4. Concrete is being prepared. For a rough screed, you can use a solution with a reduced binder content. Therefore, the ratio of 4: 4: 1, where, respectively, fine gravel, sand and Portland cement M-400, will be quite acceptable for these purposes.
  5. A rough screed does not imply a perfect leveling of the surface, so it is not necessary to install beacons here. But draw a horizontal line along the perimeter of the walls, using a water or laser level and some kind of marker, preferably. The smoother the surface, the easier it will be to lay insulation or install joists under a wooden flooring. The prepared concrete is poured, starting from the wall farthest from the entrance to the room, and leveled first with a trowel, and then with a rule.

Important! In order to make the rough base as even (within reasonable limits) as possible, when the concrete grasps to the point that it can be stepped on, it is necessary to plow the pliable surface as a rule, removing strong convex irregularities. The solution that is removed in this case can be immediately placed in the largest recesses. This method allows you to sufficiently level the surface for subsequent technological operations.

Do-it-yourself insulation and finishing screed


To create an insulating barrier under the concrete base of the floor, it is better to use polymer moisture-resistant insulation. In our case, you can use sheet polystyrene with a density of 35 kg / m3, but extruded polystyrene foam is better, which is stronger and absolutely impervious to moisture. In addition, the slabs of this material are equipped with docking protrusions, which makes it easier to install without creating gaps.

If the rough base is flat enough, the insulation boards can be laid directly on the surface. When the existing irregularities do not allow to lay the polystyrene foam qualitatively, you can use polymer-cement glue, which will help smooth out the irregularities and "nicely" lay the insulation sheets. The boards should be positioned offset so that long longitudinal seams do not form. A gap of about a centimeter should be left between the expanded polystyrene and the wall to allow deformation expansion. It is advisable to fill all seams and gaps polyurethane foam so that cold bridges do not form.


In the case when glue was used to lay the insulation, you should wait a day, after which you can install beacons. A long building level is used for control. As guides, you can use plaster beacons with a T-shaped end, or guide profiles, which are used to assemble frames for cladding. Lighthouses are installed on a thick cement-sand or plaster mortar lined with slides. When adjusting their position, they are pressed into the enclosed mixture.

If there is a desire to make a slope, beacons should be placed at an angle. In order for the water to drain from the tile, and at the same time the inclined surface does not create discomfort while walking on it, the optimal height difference is in the range of 1.5-2 cm / m.

Taking into account possible temperature differences, even with a small area of ​​final pouring, a damper tape should be fixed to the wall along the perimeter, which would protrude 2-3 cm above the surface level. The excess can then be cut off or covered with a plinth.


If for the device of fine pouring the choice fell on concrete, the proportions of the solution are as follows: 4: 2: 1, where, respectively, the volume fractions of sand, fine gravel and cement M-400. The cement-sand mixture is prepared in a ratio of 4: 1. The prepared solution is poured between the beacons and leveled with a rule. When the mortar has set, the surface should be rubbed using a plaster float. Lighthouses during subsequent laying tile can not be removed. If this is done, the seams should be filled with freshly prepared mortar and smoothed.

Wooden floor in the steam room


In the room that will be a Finnish bath, everything inside should be wooden. Only wood at the temperatures that are provided here will not cause temperature injury to the body. Therefore, you need to make a wooden flooring as a floor.

After completing the assembly of the frame of the bath building, you can do the interior finishing work, among which the procedures for arranging the floors take a special place. In this article we will try to talk about how to make a floor in a bath with our own hands from wood and concrete, we will give step by step guide, as well as photo and video instructions.

First of all, it should be noted that for the manufacture of bath floors, both wood or concrete can be used, as well as ordinary ceramic tile(in some cases, floors can be made directly on clay).

The main thing to focus on when carrying out work is to ensure the normal outflow of used water. We also note that when finishing floors in "hot" rooms, in no case is it allowed to use synthetic materials (linoleum, for example), which, when heated, can emit toxic and harmful substances.

In the production of such work, special attention should also be paid to the insulation of the floor covering, which directly affects the comfort of the procedures taken. In those cases when you decide to make a floor of concrete, be sure to take care that it is covered from above with a wooden flooring or special cork slabs that provide comfortable washing conditions.

Wood

From all of the above, it follows that before making the floor in the bath, you will definitely need to decide on the material used to make it.

It is recommended to make wooden floors from softwood (fir, pine, larch or spruce); and in this case, you can use two options. The first of them involves the arrangement of a continuous coating that does not allow water to pass through, and in the second case, the floorboards are laid with a small gap, which ensures a free drain of washing waste.

Solid or "non-leaking" floors are made by embedding logs directly into the clay or installing them on concrete (preferably with a small depression), followed by dense filling with tongue-and-groove boards. But before that, a classic screed is made on the concrete surface, which has a slight slope towards the drain. At the same time, at a certain point, at the edge or in the middle of the room, a drainage collector is installed, which is connected to the sewer system of your house.

The preparation of the so-called leaking floor is usually carried out according to the following scheme:

  1. First, a well-leveled and compacted soil is covered with a layer of gravel with sand, which is subsequently poured with liquid concrete.
  2. In its shape, the surface to be poured should resemble a funnel with gentle slopes and with a center at the collection point (with a protective grid installed in the drain).
  3. Then, wooden logs are mounted on brick posts, which serve as the basis for placing the flooring.
  4. And at the end of the work, edged floorboards are laid on these logs with a gap of 5–6 mm.

When arranging such a floor, worry about waterproofing the columns supporting the logs by lining pieces of roofing felts or roofing material under them, folded in several layers. In the absence of bricks, fragments of old concrete slabs can be used as a support. You should also pay attention to the fact that it will be possible to start preparing the floors in the steam room and the washing room only after you have completed the installation of the water drainage system and prepare the foundation for the stove.

The need for antiseptic processing of wood structural elements must not be overlooked, and also not forgotten about ventilation of spaces under the floor, which ensures their safety. In particular, the removal of wet vapors can be organized through the use of an oven blower.

Concrete floor in the sink and steam room

Many experts consider the arrangement of a concrete floor in a bathhouse to be economically correct and a profitable solution... The long service life of concrete speaks in favor of this method of flooring. A high-quality screed can last more than 30 years. Among the advantages of this floor, it is worth noting:

  • Resistant to temperature extremes and high humidity.
  • Does not rot.
  • No harmful microorganisms and fungi develop on concrete.

You don't need to buy expensive products to take care of your concrete floor. household chemicals... In addition, you have the option to decorate the floor with tiles, for example.

A lot of water is used in the bath. This implies the need for a drainage arrangement. Before concreting the floor, design and implement a drainage system. To do this, you need to determine the point that will allow you to most easily equip the sewer system. At this point, an intermediate tank should be located, which can be made in the form of a small pit with a size of 40 × 40 × 30 cm.The simplest method of processing the pit is concreting, with a layer of at least 5 cm.

Then, a drainage should be made from this reservoir into a sewer manhole / septic tank. For these purposes, you can use a fan pipe with a diameter of 200 mm.

The soil should be leveled and then tamped. Then cover the floor with gravel. large fraction 15 cm thick. Gravel can be replaced with a brick fight. The next layer is crushed stone 10 cm thick.

After the crushed stone has been compacted, a 5 cm thick layer of concrete should be poured. It should be made with a slope towards the preliminary waste water tank.

To significantly reduce heat loss in the bath, the concrete floor should be insulated. This is done after the first layer of concrete has hardened. Expanded clay can be used as insulation. It needs to be covered with a layer of 5–8 cm.

This is not the only insulation that is suitable for arranging a concrete floor. Often for these purposes, building felt or mineral wool... But, it is worth considering the fact that when laying mineral wool as a heater, you will have to additionally waterproof it. Roofing material can be used as a waterproofing layer.

Bitumen should be poured between the floor and the wall.

Another option for floor insulation is filling cement mortar with perlite (rock of volcanic origin). They began to use it in this direction relatively recently. The advantages of this component are high water absorption and thermal insulation characteristics.

Perlite is a very light material, so work with it must be done indoors.

Kneading is done in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is important to strictly follow the instructions that are indicated on the packaging for the product.

A second concrete layer should be poured onto the insulation or waterproofing (it depends on the insulation material you installed). In this case, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh before pouring the concrete (this can be a wire or a reinforced mesh). In order for the concrete to be durable as a result, it must be tamped, leveled with a rule, and poured concrete on top.

For filling the screed, it is used sand-cement mortar or self-leveling mixture... If tiles will be used to decorate the floor, then it is better to buy cement mix designed for these purposes.

The screed must be poured in one go, so you need to act quickly. Start pouring from the far corner, leveling the grout with a trowel. It is necessary to tighten it with a rule in a circular motion, which would be directed towards the exit from the room. After the screed has to harden, this process takes several days.

With the addition of plasticizers, the concrete hardening process is accelerated. They, among other things, increase the strength of the concrete, reliably connect the constituent components of the mortar to each other and prevent the possibility of cracks.

The screed hardens completely in 3 weeks. In the first week, it needs to be watered from time to time.

The surface quality is determined after the concrete is completely dry. If the screed has a solid gray tint, then this indicates its uniformity. In addition, on durable and high-quality concrete, there will be no noticeable marks from a hammer blow.

Ceramic tiles are most often used as finishing concrete floors in a bath. The tiles will also look spectacular. A significant drawback of tiles is that when wet, they become slippery, which increases the risk of injury. Therefore, from a practical point of view, it is better to lay Metlakh tiles on the concrete floor.

You should not use linoleum and other synthetic coatings in bath rooms (even in those in which the temperature is not as high as in the steam room). The fact is that in the process of heating, substances are released from them that can lead to intoxication, that is, severe poisoning of the body.

Auxiliary premises

In rooms with a low level of humidity and relatively low temperatures, it is allowed to use laminate and linoleum prohibited for steam rooms. In the dressing room, such a covering is laid over a special flooring, which provides the possibility of drying the floors. When using such a basis floor covering turns out to be double, consisting of a rough and a finishing flooring.

When working with the floor, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

  • the optimal height of the floor base above the ground is considered to be a level that exceeds this mark by at least 30 cm;
  • for the manufacture of a natural wood floor, edged or grooved boards with a thickness of about 25–35 mm are selected;
  • laying the lag on brick posts in such structures is required.

The procedure for arranging floor coverings in a bathhouse made in the old Russian style, in fact, is no different from the procedures described above (taking into account the fact that the floors in the steam room can even be earthen). Before preparing them, you will need to do the following operations:

  1. Along the perimeter of the base, at a distance of about 50 cm from the foundation, the soil is first selected (to a depth of about 45-50 cm).
  2. The resulting site is filled up to the required level with a mixture of fine gravel and sand, and then carefully compacted.
  3. The boards are laid directly on the prepared base, which is quite consistent with the floors made according to the old methods.

Video

This video will answer the most frequently asked questions about the floor in the bath:

Photo

Schemes

These diagrams will help you in arranging the floor in the bath:

You can equip the floor in the bath with your own hands if all necessary work... The service life of the floor depends on the quality of the preparation of the base, the choice of insulating materials and the topcoat. We will consider the device of floors for a bath, the features of their installation, as well as technological nuances that must be taken into account.

Features of the device floors in the bath


How to make a durable and wear-resistant floor in a bath? The construction of a bath as such is carried out taking into account many nuances. A room with a specific microclimate provides extreme conditions for the operation of the floor covering. High humidity, constant temperature fluctuations and contact of the floor base with water can significantly shorten the lifespan of the floor.

The choice of a specific method for arranging the base in a "damp" room depends on the following factors:

  • method of heat and waterproofing;
  • type of foundation and the presence of underground;
  • seasonality of using the bath;
  • type of soil under the building;
  • design features of the building.

If the bath is planned to be used throughout the year, in this case it is more expedient to make a capital base with pouring a concrete screed. In a frame building, which is used only in the warm season, it is best to make a wooden floor, since its assembly will be more profitable from an economic point of view.

Types of wood floors


The device of the base with the help of wooden flooring will be the most acceptable for seasonal buildings. Wood has a low thermal conductivity, therefore it helps to conserve heat in a "damp" room. However, high humidity can cause wood to rot. To avoid this, experts recommend using floor joists and flooring made of coniferous wood. They are less hygroscopic due to the presence of natural resins in the structure of the tree.

All types of wooden coatings for baths can be roughly divided into the following categories:

  1. Leaking. Boards are laid at a certain interval, so water is immediately drained from the room due to the cracks formed in the coating, the size of which varies from 3 to 7 mm. The device of such a base is beneficial for several reasons:
    • easy installation;
    • low cost of floors;
    • no need to install a drain system.
  2. Non-leaking. A monolithic covering, assembled from boards, can be used in buildings that are used all year round. However, in this case, it is necessary to install a water collector at the base, with the help of which the waste water would be discharged into the sewer. The device of a non-leaking coating has the following advantages:
    • long period of operation;
    • good thermal insulation of the room;
    • the possibility of assembling heated floors.

Necessary tools


The construction of a bath is a laborious and responsible process, but one of its most important stages is the arrangement of the floors. From quality installation works associated with the device of the sewer system and the laying of floor materials, the microclimate in the room depends. To implement all the stages of floor construction correctly, first of all, you need to have the necessary tools at hand.

Device concrete base possible with such tools:

  • concrete mixer;
  • lighthouses;
  • rule (for alignment);
  • building level;
  • container for solution;
  • shovel.

To make wood flooring, you will need other tools:

  • hammer;
  • jigsaw (angle grinder);
  • plane;
  • roulette;
  • nails.

To understand how to properly install the floors in a bath, consider a step-by-step guide for laying wood and concrete floors.

Standard floor-standing design


The base installed in the steam room should be 8-9 cm above the zero level. In this case, the temperature in the room will remain at the required level for a long time. At the same time, the base is made slightly lower than in other rooms of the bath. This avoids water leakage under the floor into the dressing room, shower room, etc.

The standard flooring arrangement is represented by a multi-layer cake:

  • waterproofing layer (placed on the ground);
  • beams for wooden lathing;
  • rough coating;
  • insulating materials(insulation, waterproofing);
  • lags for assembling the lathing;
  • heat and water insulators;
  • lining;
  • air bag;
  • wood and concrete layer;
  • decorative coating.

Features of the preparation of the base

The traditional construction of a warm floor begins with preparatory work. To ensure a long service life of the topcoat, the following works are performed during the preparation of the base:

  1. In place of future floors, a mineral pillow is laid, represented by broken brick or expanded clay granules. The thickness of the drainage layer must be at least 15 cm;
  2. Gravel or crushed stone 10-15 cm thick is poured on top;
  3. Then the laid materials are well tamped.

Laying a mineral pad helps to break the capillarity, which causes soil moisture to rise to the substrate and destroy it.

Preparation of working mixture for concrete floors


To make a high-quality solution for pouring a screed, you need to strictly observe the proportions and the order of adding the necessary components. To improve the thermal insulation properties of the mixture, perlite can be added to its composition. The process of preparing the solution itself is carried out in two stages.

First step:

  1. 10 liters of clean water are poured into the concrete mixer;
  2. Then, about 2 buckets of expanded sand are poured;
  3. The components are mixed;
  4. Then add 5 liters of cement grade M-300, not lower;
  5. The mixture is mixed well;
  6. Then add about 5 more liters of water;
  7. Stir the solution until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

If necessary, you can slightly improve the technical characteristics of the composition by adding perlite to it. To do this, perform the following actions:

  1. 10 kg of perlite are poured into the previously prepared solution;
  2. Add about 2-2.5 L of water;
  3. The components are mixed until the concrete mass turns into free-flowing;
  4. After 10 minutes, the components of the mixture are again thoroughly mixed.

Ultimately, a free-flowing composition will turn out, which in consistency will resemble plasticine. After that, a screed is made on the prepared base.

Filling the first layer


If the area of ​​the rough coating is small, the screed is made all over the site at once. To fill the screed over a large area, the room is conventionally divided into strips, processing each one in turn. How to put the first layer of concrete mix correctly?

  1. The thickness of the "rough" screed must be at least 12 cm;
  2. The horizontality of the laid layer is checked with a level;
  3. Level the mixture using a rule;
  4. So that water does not accumulate on the surface of the finished floor, the screed is made with a slight slope towards the pit;
  5. The slope of the screed must be at least 1 cm per meter of length.

Heat and waterproofing of concrete floors

As soon as the screed hardens, you need to go to the stage of heat and waterproofing of the coating. Before laying insulating materials, the concrete surface is checked for bulges, cracks and dents. If necessary, defects on the coating are repaired.

As a rule, the following are chosen as waterproofing materials:

  • bituminous mastic;
  • plastic wrap;
  • rolled roofing material.

After arranging the waterproofing, it is necessary to insulate the floor. For these purposes, the following can be used:

  • mineral wool;
  • polystyrene;
  • penoplex;
  • granulated expanded clay;
  • foam concrete.

The thickness of the insulating layer should be 10-15 cm. As practice shows, expanded clay is the optimal insulation for concreted surfaces. It does not absorb moisture, weighs little and also has good sound insulation.

Pouring the finishing screed


Laying the finishing layer of the screed technologically differs little from the previous version. But in this case, the thickness of the screed can vary from 8 to 10 cm. It should be borne in mind that in the process of pouring the mixture, it is necessary to observe the observance of the slope towards the sump.

Still, flooring in large and small rooms is slightly different. If the base area is large enough, to give the structure more strength, it is worth putting a reinforcing mesh before pouring the screed. In this case, even with intensive use of the bath, the rough coating will not crack.

Features of wood floors

Wooden flooring is a traditional type of flooring that is used for furnishing floors in a bath. Despite the hygroscopicity, this type of material is still in demand among consumers, due to the following qualities:

  • The wood is environmentally friendly and safe for health;
  • The flooring has a low thermal conductivity, in contrast to concrete;
  • The wood flooring creates a more welcoming atmosphere in the room.

In addition, a wooden base can be made in just a few days, since the stage of "wet" work can be bypassed, which cannot be done when pouring a screed.

Laying wooden floors


How to properly lay wood floors? It is quite easy to mount a wooden base, but you need to take into account a lot of technological nuances. The whole process of arranging floors is divided into the following stages:

  1. Erection of support racks... To install the supports, rather thick beams with a cross section of 15 cm are used. It is the racks that will experience the greatest load during the operation of the base of the floor covering. They are placed on metal or brick pillars, secured with steel brackets. When arranging floors in a bathhouse, erected on a pile foundation, the lag is laid on a mortgage crown;
  2. Installation of the underground. In the case of assembling leaking floors, a 20 cm layer of crushed stone or expanded clay is laid underground. If the soil is clayey and does not absorb moisture well, a tank is installed under the floor to collect waste water, which flows by gravity into the sewer through the pipeline. If you need to make a leak-proof base, it is mandatory to insulate it (expanded clay, foam). To ensure normal ventilation of the underground, ventilation holes are made in the foundation for better air circulation;
  3. Laying logs and finishing flooring... For the arrangement of leaking floors, the logs are placed in random order, observing horizontality. When installing a non-leaking base, we make a slope from the log towards the pit. In the case of non-leaking floors, cranial blocks are nailed to the logs, onto which rough boards are thrown. Then a layer of hydro and heat insulator is placed on them. After that, the wooden crate is sheathed with a tongue-and-groove board. Inside the "pie", between the finishing boards and the logs, there should be a gap of 10-12 cm for ventilation of the underground.

Building a bath with a wear-resistant floor is very problematic, given the specific microclimate in the room. In order to increase the period of operation of the floor covering, such moments should be taken into account during its installation.

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