Set the ignition on the VAZ 21213 Niva carburetor. How to adjust the ignition on a "Niva" with a carburetor engine with your own hands

Unpretentiousness, ease of maintenance and maintainability are a well-known advantage of all carburetor engines that were installed on cars of the VAZ family, including the entire Niva model range. But here also lies their main drawback, namely the need for periodic manual adjustments. For example, after repairs or when changing the octane number of the fuel used, the driver is required to use a VAZ "Niva" car (carburetor), while the injection systems do not need such manipulations.

Due to an incorrectly set ignition timing, the engine starts to work incorrectly, and its power decreases. Timely taking measures to install the ignition on the VAZ-21213 "Niva" with a carburetor engine eliminates the problem. If you decide to make all the adjustments yourself, you can also save on the services of a master. To do this, you just need to familiarize yourself with the guide below.

How to independently adjust the ignition on the "Niva"

Most accurately 21213 (carburetor) can be performed using a stroboscope. However, this is not the only method available in garage conditions, especially since many motorists do not have this device at their disposal and do not intend to buy it. Therefore, we will consider two whole ways of setting the optimal ignition timing.

To begin with, let's dwell on the adjustment with a stroboscope. Prepare for the forthcoming work a wrench on "13" and, in fact, the stroboscope itself. If everything is ready, you can start performing the tuning operations by following the step-by-step instructions, but first, let us make a reservation that for correct adjustment, the engine should be warmed up, and the carburetor should be properly tuned. So, the order of actions is as follows:

First, using a special wrench to manually rotate the crankshaft, set the piston of the first cylinder so that it is at top dead center. To do this, be guided by the special marks that are located on the crankshaft pulley and on the timing cover. The position of the piston can be considered correct if the mark on the pulley is aligned with the middle line on the cover.
Next, you need to remove the cover of the distributor sensor to determine if the slider is located correctly. If it is directed to the first cylinder, then the position of the piston corresponds to the compression stroke. If necessary, correct the position of the slider by turning the crankshaft.
Now you should check and, if necessary, set the optimal moment of ignition of the combustible mixture - prepare a stroboscope for this operation. To begin with, the device should be prepared for use by connecting its "minus" wire to the machine ground, and "plus" - to the positive terminal of the battery. The sensor clamp should be connected to the high voltage contact designed to ignite the mixture in the first cylinder.
Next, start the engine, setting the idle speed (approximately 800 rpm), and position the stroboscope so that its blinking beam was directed towards the mark on the crankshaft pulley. During operation, it should match the middle line on the timing case cover. If the alignment is ensured, it means that the correct lead angle is set on your car, otherwise you will have to make an adjustment.
With the engine running, use a wrench to loosen the mounting of the distributor sensor, and then slowly turn it until you achieve the coincidence of the above marks. If it is necessary to increase the angle, the distributor should be turned counterclockwise, and by turning it clockwise, you can provide a decrease in the ignition timing. Remember to tighten the retaining nuts after completing the adjustment.

This is how the VAZ-21213 (carburetor) is produced using a device such as a stroboscope. With its help, you will be able to adjust the moment of ignition of the working mixture no worse than a qualified car service specialist. Next, we will consider an option that does not require the use of this device.

How to set the ignition timing using a light bulb

This method of adjustment does not require the purchase of additional equipment and at the same time allows for fairly precise adjustments. If it suits you, then before proceeding with the ignition adjustment of the VAZ-21213 (carburetor), prepare a 12 V control light, having previously soldered to its contacts along the conductor. And also you will need a "13" spanner and a wrench to manually rotate the crankshaft. During the setup process, follow the sequence described below:

In contrast to the method, which assumes, the ignition timing by the light bulb is carried out with the engine off. But here it is also necessary to install the piston of the first cylinder at TDC, aligning the mark on the pulley with the middle line on the camshaft cover. Similar to the first method, remove the distributor cap and make sure the slider points towards the first cylinder.
Having loosened the distributor fastening, connect the bulb to ground and to the low-voltage wire of the ignition coil. Remember to replace the distributor cover.
Next, turn on the ignition of the car (the lamp should light up at this moment) and by slowly turning the housing of the distributor sensor clockwise, turn off the test lamp. As soon as this has happened, just as slowly turn the distributor counterclockwise until the light goes out again. The advance angle set in this way will ensure stable operation of the engine at any speed.
All that remains now is to tighten the mounting nuts of the distributor sensor.

By the way, this ignition tuning method is suitable for most domestic vehicles with a carburetor engine, including cars of the UAZ family.

From the beginning of the production of Niva VAZ-2121 cars until their modernization, a contact ignition system was used. Later, in order to keep up with the times, Niva cars began to be equipped with contactless electronic ignition. And this is natural. The advantages of contactless ignition are obvious and proven in practice. For example: ease of installation and adjustment, reliability and accuracy of operation, significant improvement in engine starting in the cold season. For those who still have a contact ignition system installed on their car, this article will help to modernize it.

In fact, you shouldn't have big difficulties and problems when installing the "new thing". The most a big problem- this is the purchase of the kit itself.

Now let's move on to the main thing. Choosing, buying and installing a set of contactless electronic ignition on your favorite and invincible Classic.

Choice and purchase: from myself I can advise you to stop at a set of non-contact ignition of Russian production, the city of Stary Oskol - see photo 1. In the box we find - a coil, a switch, a distributor and a wiring harness (photo 2). In terms of quality, this kit is considered one of the best. Also, look at which engine block you have, since the distributors are of two types (they differ in the length of the shaft).

Getting ready for installation - a drill, a drill and a pair of self-tapping screws (a standard mounting place is provided for the coil in the engine compartment, but the switch will have to be fixed independently), open-end wrench for 13, box or socket wrenches for 8 and 10. In order to put the engine on the "TDC" mark, you need a key for 38.

We can start replacing:

1. Take the 38 key and turn the ratchet nut until the marks on the crankshaft pulley and the engine front cover coincide, that is, set the engine to the “TDC” mark (photo 3).
2. We remember the location of the distributor and the slider; the new distributor will be put in this position. In my case, the slider is turned towards the valve cover and "stands on the fourth cylinder" along the distributor cover (photo 4). This is his correct position.
3. Also, we find the B + mark on the coil and remember which wires are screwed to it (photo 5). Then we unscrew and remove the coil.
4. Using a 13 key, unscrew the distributor lock nut and remove it. We try not to lose the gasket - photo 6.
5. We fix the switch, fasten the black wire "to ground" (photo 7). We install and fix the coil to the body. We connect standard wires to the corresponding terminals (pay attention to the location of terminals B and K on the new coil - photo 8). The wires from the switch are marked with + to terminal B, the second wire to terminal K - photo 9.
6. Install the distributor, do not fully tighten the lock nut. We connect the wires from the switch to the distributor (photo 10). We check the position of the distributor and the slider (photo 11), put on the cover and connect the wires in the order 1-3-4-2 (photo 12).
7. After everything is fixed, we can start the engine and start adjusting the ignition "by ear". But if you have a strobe, you can use it))). To do this, with the engine running, slowly turn the distributor (the lock nut, we did not tighten for this) "back and forth" (photo 13) and look for the middle position in which the engine speed will be the highest and evenest.

Ignition advancing angle to v.m.t. at a crankshaft speed of 750–800 min – 1, it must comply with the data in subsection 1.11.

To check the ignition moment, there are three marks 2, 3 and 4 on the valve timing cover and mark 1 on the crankshaft pulley corresponding to the TDC. piston in the first and fourth cylinders in coincidence with the mark 4 on the cover.

You can check and set the ignition timing using a stroboscope, proceeding in the following order:

- connect the “plus” terminal of the stroboscope to the “plus” terminal of the battery, the earth clamp to the “minus” terminal of the battery, and connect the clamp of the stroboscope sensor to the high voltage wire of the 1st cylinder. Mark with chalk for better visibility mark 1 on the crankshaft pulley;

- start the engine and direct the blinking stream of strobe light to the mark on the pulley; if the ignition timing is set correctly, then when the engine is idling, the position of the mark on the pulley must correspond to the data in Appendix 3.

To adjust the ignition timing, stop the engine, loosen the nut of the ignition distributor sensor and turn it to the required angle. To increase the ignition timing, the distributor sensor housing should be turned counterclockwise, and to decrease - clockwise. Then check the ignition timing again.

For the convenience of adjusting the ignition timing on the flange of the ignition distributor there are divisions and signs "+" and "-". One mark on the flange corresponds to eight degrees of crankshaft rotation.

If there is a diagnostic stand with an oscilloscope, then with its help you can also easily check the setting of the ignition timing, guided by the operating instructions for the stand.

Reinstall the ignition distributor sensor removed from the engine in the following order:

- turn the crankshaft before the start of the compression stroke in the first cylinder, and then, continuing to turn the crankshaft, align mark 1 with mark 4;
- remove the cover from the ignition distributor sensor and turn the rotor to such a position in which its outer contact will be directed towards the contact of the first cylinder on the distributor sensor cover;
- keeping the shaft of the distributor sensor from turning, insert it into the socket on the cylinder block so that the center line passing through the spring latches is approximately parallel to the center line of the engine;
- fix the distributor sensor on the cylinder block, install the cover, connect the wires, check and adjust the ignition timing. 7.5.3.

VAZ-21213 (Niva). Checking ignition devices at the stand

Checking work

PERFORMANCE ORDER

PERFORMANCE ORDER

PERFORMANCE ORDER

VAZ-21213 (Niva). Ignition distributor 3810.3706

1 - roller;
2 - oil baffle clutch;
3 - plug connector;
4 - the body of the vacuum regulator;
5 - diaphragm;
6 - cover of the vacuum regulator;
7 - draft of the vacuum regulator;
8 - base plate of the centrifugal regulator;
9 - the rotor of the ignition distributor;
10 - side electrode with a terminal;
11 - cover;

12 - central electrode with a terminal;
13 - ember of the central electrode;
14 - resistor;
15 - outer contact of the rotor;
16 - centrifugal regulator plate;
17 - weight;
18 - screen;
19 - base plate of the proximity sensor;
20 - contactless sensor;
21 - housing of the ignition distributor sensor

Checking work

PERFORMANCE ORDER

1. Install the ignition distributor on an electrical test bench and connect it to a variable speed motor.
2. Connect the leads of the ignition distributor with the ignition coil, with the switch and with the stand battery similarly to the car ignition system diagram. Connect the four terminals of the cover with spark gaps, the gap between the electrodes of which is adjustable.
3. Set a 5 mm gap between the spark gap electrodes, turn on the stand motor and rotate the distributor sensor roller for several minutes clockwise with a frequency of 2000 min – 1. Then increase the gap between the electrodes to 10 mm and watch for internal discharges in the distributor sensor. They are detected by sound or by attenuation and interruption of sparking at the arrester of the test bench.
4. During operation, the ignition distributor should not make noise at any speed of the roller.

Removing the characteristics of the automatic ignition timing

Scheme for characterizing the ignition distributor sensor at the stand

Characteristic of the centrifugal regulator of the ignition distributor sensor

Characteristic of the vacuum regulator of the ignition distributor sensor

PERFORMANCE ORDER

1. Install the ignition distributor sensor on the stand, connect its leads to the terminals "3", "5" and "6" of the switch 1 of the stand (see Fig. Scheme for characterizing the ignition distributor sensor at the stand). Connect output "4" of the switch to the "plus" terminal of the stand, and output "1" - to the "breaker" terminal of the stand. Set a gap of 7 mm between the spark gap electrodes.
2. Turn on the stand electric motor and rotate the roller of the ignition distributor with a frequency of 500–600 min – 1. On the graduated disc of the stand, mark the value in degrees at which one of the four sparks is observed.
3. Increasing the rotational speed stepwise by 200–300 min – 1, determine the number of degrees of ignition advance from the disc, which corresponds to the rotational speed of the roller of the ignition distributor. Compare the obtained characteristic of the centrifugal ignition timing regulator with the characteristic (see fig. Characteristic of the centrifugal regulator of the ignition distributor sensor).
4. If the characteristic differs from that shown in this figure, then it can be brought back to normal by bending the spring struts of the weights of the centrifugal regulator. Up to 1500 min – 1 - bend the post of a thin spring, and over 1500 min – 1 - with a thick one. To decrease the angle, increase the spring tension, and to increase it, decrease it.
5. To read the characteristics of the vacuum regulator of the ignition timing, connect the fitting of the vacuum regulator with the vacuum pump of the stand.
6. Turn on the stand electric motor and rotate the roller of the ignition distributor with a frequency of 1000 min – 1. Using the graduated dial, mark the degree in degrees at which one of the four sparks occurs.
7. Smoothly increasing the vacuum, every 26.7 hPa (20 mm Hg) note the number of degrees of ignition advance relative to the initial value. Compare the obtained characteristic with the characteristic (see fig. Characteristic of the vacuum regulator of the ignition distributor sensor).

Proximity sensor test

Scheme for checking the proximity sensor on the removed ignition distributor

Circuit for testing a proximity sensor on a car

PERFORMANCE ORDER

1. Voltage is removed from the sensor output if there is a steel screen in its gap. If there is no screen in the gap, then the voltage at the sensor output is close to zero.
2. On the ignition distributor removed from the engine, the sensor can be checked according to the diagram (see Fig. Scheme for checking the proximity sensor on the removed ignition distributor), with a supply voltage of 8-14 V.
3. Slowly rotating the roller of the ignition distributor, measure the voltage at the output of the sensor with a voltmeter. It should change sharply from the minimum - no more than 0.4 V, to the maximum - no more than 3 V lower supply voltage.
4. On the car, the sensor can be checked according to the scheme (see Fig. Scheme for checking the proximity sensor on the car). An adapter connector 2 with a voltmeter is connected between the plug connector of the ignition distributor and the wiring harness connector. Turn on the ignition and, slowly turning the crankshaft with a special key, check the voltage at the sensor output with a voltmeter. It should be within the limits indicated above.

7.5.3.2.

VAZ-21213 (Niva). Ignition coil

Check winding resistance and insulation resistance.

For ignition coils of type 27.3705, the resistance of the primary winding at 25 ° C should be (0.45 ± 0.05) Ohm, and the secondary winding (5 ± 0.5) kOhm.

At the ignition coil 8352.12, the resistance of the primary winding is (0.42 ± 0.05) Ohm, and the secondary winding is (5 ± 1) kOhm.

Insulation resistance to ground must be at least 50 megohms.

7.5.3.3. Switch

The switch is tested using an oscilloscope and a square-wave generator according to the diagram shown in the figure. The generator output impedance should be 100–500 ohms. It is desirable to use a two-channel oscilloscope. The 1st channel is for generator pulses, and the 2nd channel is for commutator pulses.

On the terminals "3" and "6" of the commutator, rectangular pulses are supplied to simulate the sensor pulses. The pulse frequency is from 3.33 to 233 Hz, and the duty cycle (the ratio of the period to the pulse duration T / Ti) is 3.

The maximum voltage Umax is 10 V, and the minimum Umin is not more than 0.4 V (oscillogram II). In a working switch, the shape of the current pulses should correspond to oscillogram I.

For switches 3620.3734 and 76.3734 at a supply voltage of 13.5 ± 0.5 V, the current strength (V) should be 7.5–8.5 A. The current accumulation time (A) is not standardized.

For the RT1903 switch with a supply voltage (13.5 ± 0.2) V and a pulse frequency of 25 Hz, the current strength is 7–8 A, and the current accumulation time is 5.5–11.5 ms.

For the PZE4022 switch with a supply voltage (14 ± 0.3) V and a frequency of 25 Hz, the current value is 7.3–7.7 A, and the current accumulation time is not standardized.

For the K563.3747 switch with a supply voltage (13.5 ± 0.5) V and a frequency of 33.3 Hz, the current strength is 7.3–7.7 A, and the current accumulation time is not standardized.

If the shape of the switch pulses is distorted, then there may be interruptions with sparking or it may occur with a delay. The motor will overheat and will not develop its rated power.

7.5.3.4. Spark plug

Before testing, clean carbonized or contaminated spark plugs in a special installation with a sand stream and blow with compressed air. If the carbon deposit is light brown, then it can not be removed, since it appears on a serviceable engine and does not interfere with the operation of the ignition system.

After cleaning, inspect the spark plugs and adjust the electrode gap. If the insulator of the spark plug has chips, cracks, or the welding of the side electrode is damaged, replace the plug.

Check the gap (0.7–0.8 mm) between the spark plug electrodes with a round wire feeler. It is impossible to check the gap with a flat probe, since this does not take into account the groove on the side electrode, which forms during the operation of the candle. Adjust the gap by bending only the side electrode of the spark plug.

Leak test

PERFORMANCE ORDER

1. Screw the spark plug into the corresponding socket on the stand and tighten with a torque wrench to a torque of 31.4–39.2 N · m (3.2–4 kgf · m). Create a pressure of 2 MPa (20 kgf / cm2) in the stand chamber.

2. Put a few drops of oil or kerosene from the oil can on the candle; if the tightness is broken, air bubbles will come out, usually between the insulator and the metal body of the candle.

Electrical test

PERFORMANCE ORDER

1. Screw the spark plug into the socket on the stand and tighten to the above torque. Adjust the gap between the spark gap electrodes to 12 mm, which corresponds to a voltage of 18 kV, and then use a pump to create a pressure of 0.6 MPa (6 kgf / cm2).
2. Place the tip of the high voltage wire on the spark plug and apply high voltage pulses to it.
3. If a full-fledged spark is observed in the eyepiece of the stand, then the candle is considered excellent.
4. If sparking occurs between the spark gap electrodes, then lower the pressure in the device and check the pressure at which sparking occurs between the spark plug electrodes. If it starts at a pressure below 0.3 MPa (3 kgf / cm2), then the candle is defective.
5. Several sparks are allowed on the arrester; if sparking is absent on the candle and on the spark gap, then it must be assumed that there are cracks on the spark plug insulator and that the discharge occurs inside, between the mass and the electrodes. Such a candle is discarded.

7.5.3.5.

VAZ-21213 (Niva). Ignition switch

At the ignition switch, the correct closure of the contacts is checked at different key positions and the operation of the anti-theft device.

Switching the ignition switch terminals

Position key	Contacts under tension	Switched circuits
«0» (Turned off)	30 and 30/1	–
"I" (Ignition)	30 - INT	–
"I" (Ignition)	30/1 – 15
"II" (Starter)	30 - INT

Voltage from battery and the generator is supplied to contacts "30" and "30/1". A free "INT" plug is used to connect a radio receiver.

1 - locking rod;

2 - wide projection of the contact part

The anti-theft device locking rod must extend when the key is set to position III (parked) and removed from the lock. The locking rod must be recessed after turning the key from position III (parked) to position 0 (off). The key must be removed from the lock only in position III.

When installing the contact part in the switch body, it must be positioned so that the plugs "15" and "30" are on the side of the locking rod, as shown in the figure, while the wide protrusion of the contact part will enter the wide groove of the circuit breaker body.

7.5.3.6.

VAZ-21213 (Niva). Checking elements for suppression of radio interference

Elements for suppression of radio interference include:

- resistor in the rotor of the ignition distributor. The resistance value of the resistor is 1 kOhm;
- high voltage wires with distributed resistance (2000 ± 200) Ohm / m for PVVP-8 wires (red) or (2550 ± 270) Ohm / m for PVPV-40 wires (blue);
- 4–10 kOhm resistors in spark plugs;


1 - roller; 2 - housing of the ignition distributor; 3 - latch; 4 - non-contact sensor; 5 - body of the vacuum regulator; 6 - diaphragm; 7 - draft of the vacuum regulator; 8 - base plate of the centrifugal regulator; 9 - the rotor of the ignition distributor; 10 - side electrode;	11 - cover; 12 - central electrode; 13 - ember of the central electrode; 14 - resistor; 15 - outer rotor contact; 16 - the driving plate of the centrifugal regulator; 17 - weight of the centrifugal regulator; 18 - base plate of the contactless sensor; 19 - screen.

Proximity sensor test circuit on a car

Non-contact ignition system diagram

Ignition is non-contact. Consists of a distributor sensor, switch, ignition coil, spark plugs, ignition switch and high and low voltage wires. A small proportion of cars with a 1600 cm 3 engine were equipped with a microprocessor engine control system, which is not described here.

Ignition distributor 3810.3706 is a four-spark, with a contactless control impulse sensor and built-in vacuum and centrifugal ignition timing controllers. The initial ignition timing at a crankshaft speed of 750-800 min –1 should be 1 ± 1 ° before TDC.

The distributor sensor performs two main functions: firstly, it sets the moment of sparking depending on its initial setting, the number of revolutions of the crankshaft and the load on the engine, and secondly, it distributes high voltage pulses ("spark") among the cylinders in accordance with the order of their work - the rotor (slider) serves for this. In order not to make mistakes during assembly, the slider is installed on the base plate of the centrifugal regulator in only one position. The slider has a 1 kOhm noise suppression resistor.

The proximity sensor is based on the Hall effect. When the ignition is switched on, the supply voltage is applied to the sensor. As the sensor-distributor roller rotates, a steel screen with rectangular cutouts passes through the sensor gap. While the shield plate is in the gap, the voltage is removed from the control terminal of the sensor, as soon as a notch appears in the gap, the voltage at the control terminal drops sharply. Thus, for each revolution of the distributor roller, the contactless sensor emits four rectangular pulses (according to the number of cutouts in the screen), which corresponds to the moment of ignition in each of the engine cylinders.

You can check the performance of the proximity sensor by assembling the circuit shown in the figure. Slowly rotating the roller of the ignition distributor, we follow the readings of the voltmeter. The voltage should change sharply from the minimum (no more than 0.4 V) to the maximum (no more than 3 V less than the supply voltage). Defective sensor It cannot be repaired (except for a broken wire between the sensor itself and the block on the housing of the distributor sensor). If the steel screen with slots touches the sensor (determined by a slight jamming or scratching sound when rotating the roller, as well as visually, after partially disassembling the sensor-distributor), check the axial play of the roller and the fit of the screen. Replace the distributor sensor if necessary.

The centrifugal regulator increases the ignition timing with an increase in the engine speed, coming into operation at 900–1400 min –1. When the shaft of the sensor-distributor rotates, the weights of the regulator diverge under the action of centrifugal forces, overcoming the resistance of the springs, and move the base plate of the centrifugal regulator clockwise relative to the shaft. The springs have different stiffness for optimal regulator performance. The stiffer (thicker) spring comes into operation later, about halfway through the full travel of the plate - therefore, it is put on the rack with a gap, while the softer (thinner) spring is always tensioned. The maximum movement of the base plate is limited by a cutout in it and is about 12 ° along the distributor, which corresponds to an ignition timing of about 24 ° along the crankshaft.

When inspecting the centrifugal regulator, make sure that the weights move freely on the axles, their damping plastic rings are not lost, the thin spring is tensioned, and the base plate returns to its original position under the action of the springs. If necessary, lubricate the distributor shaft with a few drops of engine oil.

The vacuum regulator increases the ignition timing depending on the engine load. It consists of a vacuum chamber with a steel spring-loaded diaphragm, which is connected by a rod to the base plate of the proximity sensor. Under the action of the vacuum, the diaphragm flexes, overcoming the resistance of the spring, and rotates the base plate counterclockwise. The maximum movement is limited by a cutout on the link and is about 9 ° along the distributor (18 ° along the crankshaft).

The vacuum for the operation of the vacuum regulator is taken from the hole in the mixing chamber of the carburetor opposite the throttle valve of the first chamber. With a partial opening of the damper (partial load), the vacuum behind it is high, and the regulator maximally shifts the sparking moment forward. When the damper is fully open (full load), the vacuum downstream of the damper drops, and the regulator returns the contactless sensor base plate to its original position.

You can roughly assess the serviceability of the vacuum regulator directly on the car. With the engine running, disconnect the vacuum hose leading to the regulator from the carburetor fitting. If you now create a vacuum in the hose (you can use your mouth), the engine speed should increase, and when the vacuum is removed, it should decrease again. The vacuum should be maintained for at least a few seconds if the hose is pinched. Visually, the performance of the vacuum regulator can be verified by partially disassembling the distributor sensor and applying a vacuum to the regulator inlet. In this case, the screen of the distributor sensor should be rotated by an angle of 9 ± 1 °, and when the vacuum is removed, it should be returned without jamming.

Accurate testing and tuning of the vacuum and centrifugal ignition timing controllers is carried out at special stands. It is not recommended to do this at home. If the vacuum regulator fails, it should be replaced; if the centrifugal regulator is malfunctioning, the sensor-distributor should be replaced.

The switch - type 3620.3734, or HIM-52, or BAT10.2, or 76.3734, or RT1903, or PZE4022 - opens the power supply circuit of the primary winding of the ignition coil, converting the sensor control pulses into current pulses in the ignition coil. The switch is checked by an oscilloscope using a special method and is not repairable; if you suspect a malfunction, it is recommended to replace it. Do not disconnect the switch connector when the ignition is on - this may damage it (as well as other components of the ignition system).

Ignition coil - type 27.3705 or 27.3705-01, or 8352.12, or ATE1721 - oil-filled, with an open magnetic circuit. Data for verification: resistance of the primary winding at 25 ° C - (0.45 ± 0.05) Ohm, secondary winding - (5.0 ± 0.5) kOhm. Insulation resistance to ground - not less than 50 megohms.

Spark plugs - type A17DVR or A17DVRM, or A17DVRM1, or their imported counterparts (with interference suppression resistors with a resistance of 4-10 kOhm). The gap between the electrodes is 0.7–0.8 mm.

High-voltage wires - with distributed resistance (2550 ± 270) Ohm / m. Do not touch high-voltage wires while the engine is running, as this may result in electrical injury. It is also forbidden to start the engine or allow it to operate with an open high-voltage circuit (removed wires or the cover of the distributor sensor) - this can lead to burnout of the insulation and failure of the electronic components of the ignition system. As an exception, a short-term test of the ignition system "for a spark" is allowed, while the contact of the tested high-voltage wire must be securely fixed at a distance of 8-10 mm from the "mass" of the car. Do not hold the wire with your hands or tools (even with insulated handles).

Ignition switch - type 2101-3704000-11, with anti-theft locking device. When the key is turned to the "ignition" position, the voltage is supplied to the control input of the additional relay, which, in turn, supplies voltage to the ignition coil and the switch.

In the section on the question of how to properly install the distributor on a vaz 21213 ??? given by the author MuXAuJL the best answer is the most correct method (not the "poke method"). Remove the valve cover and turn the crankshaft until the mark on the camshaft coincides with the ebb at the top (mark in inside asterisks). Set the crankshaft mark 9 degrees before the long mark (TDC). Near short mark -5g, second -10g. That is, the mark on the pulley will be almost on the far short mark, slightly shifted to the side of the first short mark. Install the distributor in place so that the slider is directed towards the FOURTH cylinder (according to the inscriptions on the cover of the distributor). In this case, the latches should be approximately parallel to the motor. Slightly press the distributor with a nut, but so that it can be turned by hand. Put the cover and wire with grounded candles on the output of the fourth cylinder, also put the wire on the coil and on the central output (do not forget about the Hall sensor). Switch on the ignition, but do not start. Turning the distributor slightly, catch the moment the spark appears on the candle and fix the distributor. Collect the remaining wires. For more convincingness, you can check the ignition timing with a straboscope (100% hit).

Answer from Drilling ring[master]
do not listen to anyone, adjust the crankshaft and camshaft marks and set the slider to 4 cylinders after starting, adjust as you need. Zhiguli engines, unlike the others, start from 4 cylinders

Answer from Edor Fedor[guru]
put the piston 1 or 4 of the boiler up. side contact of the slider on the valve cover at 1 boiler one turns on, and you rotate it and seize the moment. exactly on the star is not required to put. if you are not an observer of the top conductor 1-4 2 and 3 you change places (this is all if you are too lazy to remove the cover) or determine by kmpressure

Answer from Taras Shevchenko[guru]
Very simply set 1 cylinder to TDC (turn out the spark plug tightly with a rag soaked in water into the hole and slowly twist it until it fires out of the spark plug hole) and fit the mark on the pulley to the stripes of the first on the front cover. and stick the trobpler so that 1 wire coincides with the position of the slider for 1 wire and clamp it, then after starting the car, turn the trampler a little earlier, until the highest engine speed

Anyone, not even a car owner, understands that the car will not start and drive without ignition (criminal options are not considered). Depending on the car manufacturer, repair or replacement of parts takes place in a car service or independently. Installing an ignition on a VAZ 21213 NIVA carburetor is one of those processes that the owner can perform himself. This approach will save money and give personal experience under repair. Contents 1 Features of replacing the ignition lock 2 Checking the quality of the installation of the ignition lock 3 Setting the ignition 4 Useful video Features of replacing the ignition lock First of all, it is important to make sure that the problem is in the lock. Therefore, an inspection of the spark plugs, distributor and ignition coil is carried out. Often these parts of the internal combustion engine become the cause of malfunctions in correct operation. If breakdowns in them are excluded, then the ignition lock (ЗЗ) should be changed. Removal order: Disconnect the battery. Remove the steering column. Mark the wires leading to the contact zone ЗЗ. Using a flat screwdriver, unscrew the bolts securing the switch to the steering column (left and right). Insert the key into position 0. Press the screwdriver to slightly push the catch through the hole (do not touch the key). Pull the ЗЗ slightly towards you and remove. The Niva 21213 ignition lock is disconnected according to the wiring diagram (the contact part changes, if required). For this, the retaining ring must be dismantled with a screwdriver. Remove the key, install the contact part so that the wide projections of the body and the parts match. The rest of the parts are assembled in the reverse order. With strict adherence to the instructions and the wiring diagram, problems should not arise. This is facilitated by the simplicity of the design. In this case, the part can even be repaired if the damage is not critical.

Checking the quality of the installation of the ignition lock It is logical that errors are possible when connecting the contacts or incorrect installation of the lock itself. Therefore, it is necessary to test the ZZ in the installed state. You will need an ohmmeter and voltmeter. Diagnostics of performance: Checking the resistance between the terminals of the secondary winding: connect the probes to 1 and 4 cylinders, then to 2 and 3. The data should be approximately the same. An error greater than 100 ohms indicates damage to the secondary. Check the wiring with a voltmeter. The first control - one probe is put on contact A, the second - on the ground. Start the engine and record the data. Turn off the car and repeat the procedure with contact B. The readings should be about 12 volts. In addition, if there is no voltage, the fuse is checked, the possibility of a break in the wiring or corrosion of the contacts. The latter case is especially unpleasant, since almost all the wiring, contact elements, etc. will have to be checked. In case of possible suspicions in the electrical network, it is better to give the car to a professional auto electrician. Repairing it requires a thorough knowledge of the circuit and experience in finding defects. Setting the ignition The last step that a motorist can perform in setting up the ignition system after installing the lock. You can give the car to a specialist, but this rather simple procedure is estimated by the services to be unreasonably expensive. Setting instructions: Set cylinder 1 at top dead center when setting the mark on the crankshaft between marks 3 - 0 degrees. Dismantle the distributor cover and check the position of the slider (the direction should be towards the pin of cylinder 1. Using the stroboscope, set the torque and then connect the battery: ground - to negative, positive contact - to positive. The regulator clip is connected to the high-voltage cable on cylinder 1. Note the mark on the crankshaft pulley. Start the engine at less than 800 rpm. Shine the strobe light at the risk on the pulley. If the adjustment is correct, the risk should coincide with the middle one on the engine cover. After repeating the procedure. The final check takes place on the move. You will need to warm up the engine to 80 degrees. After accelerating to 60 km / h (or change to 4th gear, as some experts advise). Sharply press the gas pedal. If the ignition is adjusted correctly, the engine can concretize shortly.

First of all, it is important to make sure that the problem is with the lock. Therefore, an inspection of the spark plugs, distributor and ignition coil is carried out. Often these parts of the internal combustion engine become the cause of malfunctions in correct operation. If breakdowns in them are excluded, then the ignition lock (ЗЗ) should be changed. Extraction order:

Disconnect the battery.
Remove the steering column.
Mark the wires leading to the contact zone ЗЗ. Using a flat screwdriver, unscrew the bolts securing the switch to the steering column (left and right).
Insert the key into position 0. Press the screwdriver to slightly push the catch through the hole (do not touch the key).
Pull the ЗЗ slightly towards you and remove. The Niva 21213 ignition lock is disconnected according to the wiring diagram (the contact part changes, if required). For this, the retaining ring must be dismantled with a screwdriver.
Remove the key, install the contact part so that the wide projections of the body and the parts match.
The rest of the parts are assembled in the reverse order.

With strict adherence to the instructions and the wiring diagram, problems should not arise. This is facilitated by the simplicity of the design. In this case, the part can even be repaired if the damage is not critical.

Checking the quality of the installation of the ignition switch

It is logical that errors are possible when connecting contacts or incorrect installation of the lock itself. Therefore, it is necessary to test the ZZ in the installed state. You will need an ohmmeter and voltmeter. Health diagnostics:

Resistance check between the terminals of the secondary winding: connect the probes to cylinders 1 and 4, then to 2 and 3. The data should be approximately the same. An error greater than 100 ohms indicates damage to the secondary winding.
Check the wiring with a voltmeter. The first control - one probe is put on contact A, the second - on the ground. Start the engine and record the data. Turn off the car and repeat the procedure with contact B. The readings should be about 12 volts.
In addition, if there is no voltage, the fuse is checked, the possibility of a break in the wiring or corrosion of the contacts.

The latter case is especially unpleasant, since almost all the wiring, contact elements, etc. will have to be checked. In case of possible suspicions in the electrical network, it is better to give the car to a professional auto electrician. Repairing it requires a thorough knowledge of the circuit and experience in finding defects.

Ignition setting

The last step that a motorist can perform in setting up the ignition system after installing the lock. You can give the car to a specialist, but this rather simple procedure is estimated by the services to be unreasonably expensive. Exposing instructions:

Set cylinder 1 at top dead center when setting a mark on the crankshaft between marks 3 - 0 degrees.
Dismantle the distributor cover and check the position of the slider (the direction should be in the direction of the cylinder 1 pin. Using the stroboscope, set the torque and then connect the battery: ground to minus, positive contact to plus.
The regulator clip is connected to the high voltage cable on the cylinder 1. Mark the mark on the crankshaft pulley.
Start the engine at less than 800 rpm. Shine the strobe light at the risk of the pulley. If adjusted correctly, the risk should match the middle on the engine cover.
If the marks do not match, turn off the engine and adjust the distributor mount clockwise or counterclockwise. Then repeat the procedure.

The final check takes place on the go. You will need to warm up the engine to 80 degrees. After that, accelerate to 60 km / h (or switch to 4th gear, as some experts advise). Press the gas pedal sharply. If the ignition is correctly adjusted, the engine can briefly detonate.

Useful video

Unpretentiousness, ease of maintenance and maintainability is a well-known advantage of all carburetor engines that were installed on cars of the VAZ family, including the entire the lineup"Niva". But here also lies their main drawback, namely the need for periodic manual adjustments. For example, after repairs or when changing the octane number of the fuel used, the driver is required to install the ignition on the VAZ "Niva" car (carburetor), while the injection systems do not need such manipulations.

Installing the ignition on the Niva eliminates the problem of incorrect engine operation

How to independently adjust the ignition on the "Niva"

The most accurate adjustment of ignition 21213 (carburetor) can be performed using a stroboscope. However, this is not the only method available in garage conditions, especially since many motorists do not have this device at their disposal and do not intend to buy it. Therefore, we will consider two whole ways of setting the optimal ignition timing.

To begin with, let's dwell on the adjustment with a stroboscope. Prepare for the forthcoming work a wrench on "13" and, in fact, the stroboscope itself. If everything is ready, you can start performing tuning operations by following step by step instructions, but first, let's make a reservation that for correct adjustment, the engine should be warmed up, and the carburetor should be properly tuned. So, the order of actions is as follows:

To correctly adjust the ignition, the engine must be warmed up

First, using a special wrench to manually rotate the crankshaft, set the piston of the first cylinder so that it is at top dead center. To do this, be guided by the special marks that are located on the crankshaft pulley and on the timing cover. The position of the piston can be considered correct if the mark on the pulley is aligned with the middle line on the cover.
Next, you need to remove the cover of the distributor sensor to determine if the slider is located correctly. If it is directed to the first cylinder, then the position of the piston corresponds to the compression stroke. If necessary, correct the position of the slider by turning the crankshaft.
Now you should check and, if necessary, set the optimal moment of ignition of the combustible mixture - prepare a stroboscope for this operation. To begin with, the device should be prepared for use by connecting its "minus" wire to the machine ground, and "plus" - to the positive terminal of the battery. The sensor clamp should be connected to the high voltage contact designed to ignite the mixture in the first cylinder.
Next, start the engine, setting the idle speed (approximately 800 rpm), and position the stroboscope so that its blinking beam was directed towards the mark on the crankshaft pulley. During operation, it should match the middle line on the timing case cover. If the alignment is ensured, it means that the correct lead angle is set on your car, otherwise you will have to make an adjustment.
With the engine running, use a wrench to loosen the mounting of the distributor sensor, and then slowly turn it until you achieve the coincidence of the above marks. If it is necessary to increase the angle, the distributor should be turned counterclockwise, and by turning it clockwise, you can provide a decrease in the ignition timing. Remember to tighten the retaining nuts after completing the adjustment.

With the help of a stroboscope, the moment of ignition of the working mixture can be adjusted very precisely

This is how the VAZ-21213 ignition (carburetor) is installed using a device such as a stroboscope. With its help, you will be able to adjust the moment of ignition of the working mixture no worse than a qualified car service specialist. Next, we will consider an option that does not require the use of this device.

How to set the ignition timing using a light bulb

This adjustment method does not require purchase additional equipment and at the same time allows for fairly precise settings. If it suits you, then before proceeding with the ignition adjustment of the VAZ-21213 (carburetor), prepare a 12 V control light, having previously soldered to its contacts along the conductor. And also you will need a "13" spanner and a wrench to manually rotate the crankshaft. During the setup process, follow the sequence described below:

Adjustment of the ignition timing by the light bulb must be carried out with the engine off

In contrast to the method involving the use of a stroboscope, the ignition timing by the light bulb is adjusted with the engine off. But here it is also necessary to install the piston of the first cylinder at TDC, aligning the mark on the pulley with the middle line on the camshaft cover. Similar to the first method, remove the distributor cap and make sure the slider points towards the first cylinder.
Having loosened the distributor fastening, connect the bulb to ground and to the low-voltage wire of the ignition coil. Remember to replace the distributor cover.
Next, turn on the ignition of the car (the lamp should light up at this moment) and by slowly turning the housing of the distributor sensor clockwise, turn off the test lamp. As soon as this has happened, just as slowly turn the distributor counterclockwise until the light goes out again. The advance angle set in this way will ensure stable operation of the engine at any speed.
All that remains now is to tighten the mounting nuts of the distributor sensor.

After adjustment work, it is necessary to check the operation of the Niva ignition system on the road

By the way, this ignition tuning method is suitable for most domestic Vehicle with a carburetor engine, including cars of the UAZ family.

After completing the adjustment work, it will be useful to check the operation of the model 21213 ignition system on the road. To do this, accelerate the car to a speed of 50 km / h, turn on the fourth gear and depress the accelerator pedal all the way. If at this moment you hear quiet detonation sounds, it means that the moment of ignition of the working mixture is set as it should. The absence of sounds indicates late ignition, and if they are too loud, then the moment is too early. In each of these two cases, you will have to re-configure.

This article describes the two most common methods for setting the ignition timing, but they are not the only ones. For example, experienced craftsmen are able to adjust, focusing on their own hearing. However, this method is available only for those who thoroughly know how to set the ignition on the "Niva" 21213 (carburetor) and perform similar work on a regular basis. For a simple motorist, it will be enough to arm himself with the above material in order to achieve a decent result.

carextra.ru

Ignition system on the Niva: self-replacement and ignition adjustment

As you know, engine performance is largely determined by the state of the ignition system. Problems in the functioning of the latter can lead to the fact that the motor will start to work intermittently. From this material, you can learn how to remove the ignition lock on the Niva with your own hands and adjust it, as well as what needs to be considered during this process.

Ignition system module for Niva

Before removing the ignition module on the carburetor or VAZ 21213 injector, it is necessary to diagnose the ignition coil, distributor and spark plugs. As practice shows, candles are often the reason for the incorrect operation of the internal combustion engine. If you are sure that the problem lies in the ZZ, then the installed device will need to be changed.

How to replace the Niva ignition lock:

First, the battery is disconnected and the steering column is removed.
You need to mark the wires that lead to the contact part of the VAZ ignition lock and turn them off. Using a flat head screwdriver, remove the bolt securing the system switch to the steering column bracket. You will also need to unscrew the screw, which is located at the bottom, on the right side of the first.
Further, on Niva 21213, it is necessary to turn the key to position 0, after which it is necessary to slightly drown the device latch through the hole with a screwdriver. The hole itself is located on the side of the steering column. Do not touch the exposed key.
Before removing the ignition switch on the Niva, it must be pulled slightly towards you, after which the device is dismantled. In accordance with the wiring diagram, the contact part of the device is replaced, for this you need to pry it off with a screwdriver and dismantle the retaining ring.
Further, the contact part of the node is removed and changed, if necessary. When installing, the rotating part must be turned counterclockwise with a screwdriver. Remove the key from the structure and install the contact part so that its wide protrusion can match the wide cavity of the case. Further assembly of the unit is carried out in the reverse order.

1. Unscrew the fastening bolts ЗЗ. 2. Remove the assembly from the installation site. 3. Dismantle the contact piece and replace it.

How to check the ignition module?

After installing and connecting all components, you need to diagnose the module's performance:

First, the resistance between the terminals of the secondary winding is measured - the probes are connected to cylinders 1 and 4, and then to 2 and 3. Indicators can be any, the main thing is that they are more or less the same. A malfunction of the secondary winding will be indicated by an error in the indicators of more than 100 ohms.
After that, it is necessary to ring the wiring, for this, the block must be disconnected from the unit and the multimeter must be set to the voltmeter mode, while one probe of the tester is connected to contact A, and the second to ground. Start the engine and watch the tester display - the readings should be about 12 volts, the second contact is diagnosed in the same way.
In the absence of voltage, diagnose the safety element located in the mounting block under the center console. The reason for the lack of voltage can be not only a blown fuse, but also poor contact, a broken wiring, as well as corrosion (the author is the AutoElectrics Diary channel).

Ignition setting instructions

Now we propose to find out how to set the ignition on the Niva.

On models VAZ 21214, 2131 electronic ignition exhibited as follows:

First, cylinder 1 must be set to the top dead center position, while the mark on the crankshaft must be in front of the 3 - 0 degree mark.
Then, to set up, it is necessary to dismantle the distributor cover and see where the slider is located - it should be directed towards the cylinder pin 1.Using a stroboscope, you need to set the moment, after which the mass of the device is connected to the negative of the battery, and the positive terminal to the positive.
Next, the regulator clamp should be connected to the high voltage cable on cylinder 1 and marked with a notch on the crankshaft pulley. The engine starts, while its revolutions should be no more than 800 per minute, and the light from the stroboscope should be directed to the mark on the pulley. If the ignition was adjusted correctly, then the mark should coincide with the middle line on the engine cover. If this is not the case, then the power unit must be muffled, then loosen the distributor fastening and clockwise or counterclockwise. The distributor cover is being dismantled, you need to make sure that the stator petals are aligned with the rotor mark.
Further, the engine starts up again and warms up to 80 degrees. Accelerate to 60 km / h and press the accelerator pedal sharply. If the module is inserted correctly, then at this moment the engine may temporarily detonate.

Video "Adjusting the ignition with your own hands"

If you do not understand how to adjust the torque, read more detailed instructions in the video below (by Nail Poroshin).

avtozam.com

Ignition adjustment on the Niva

VAZ (Lada) 2121 (4x4) 1993 - present

How to set the ignition on the Niva (VAZ 2121)?

Set the first cylinder to TDC. The mark on the crankshaft pulley should be in front of the third mark (zero degrees).
Remove the cover of the distributor sensor, check where the slider is located. It should be directed to the pin of the first cylinder.
Using a stroboscope, set and check the ignition timing.
Connect the ground with the minus of the battery, and the plus with the plus.
Connect the sensor clip to the high voltage wire on the first cylinder and mark the mark on the crankshaft pulley.
Start the engine at idle speed in the region of 750-800 rpm. Direct the flashing strobe light to the mark on the crankshaft pulley. If it coincides with the middle mark on the engine cover, then the ignition timing is set correctly.
If not, turn off the engine and loosen the ignition distributor sensor. If you need to increase the angle - turn it counterclockwise, decrease it - clockwise. Fix and check again with a stroboscope.
Open the cover of the distributor sensor, align the stator petals and the rotor mark, then fix the sensor.
Start and warm up the engine to 80 degrees. At a speed of 50-60 kilometers per hour, sharply press the gas.
A short-term detonation of 1-2 seconds indicates correct installation ignition timing.
If early ignition occurs (i.e. knocking continues), turn the sensor counterclockwise.
If late ignition occurs (i.e. detonation does not occur) - for an hour.

7.10.4.6 Setting the ignition timing

Service maintenance and operation

Manuals ￫ VAZ ￫ 21213 (Niva)

PERFORMANCE ORDER

1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the storage battery.
2. Remove the distributor cover.
3. Turn the crankshaft to the start of the compression stroke. To determine this moment, you need to unscrew the spark plug of the 1st cylinder and close the hole under the spark plug with your finger. At the beginning of the compression stroke, air will begin to come out from under the finger.
	4. Carefully turn the crankshaft until the second mark on the pulley coincides with the lug on the camshaft cover. This mark corresponds to an ignition timing of 5 ° on an engine with an exhaust gas recirculation system (for engines without recirculation systems, set the pulley so that the middle of the pulley part between the second and third marks is against the tide on the camshaft cover, which corresponds to an ignition timing of 2 °) ...
	5. Loosen the bolt 3 fastening the distributor. Set the arrow 2 of the octane corrector to the middle of the scale 1 and tighten the bolt 3. Loosen the bolt 4 securing the octane corrector plate to the distributor housing. Press lightly counter-rotating (clockwise) on the slider with your finger to select the clearances in the actuator. While holding the slider, slowly turn the valve housing 5 until the red mark A on the rotor aligns with the arrow B on the stator. Tighten the bolt 4 securing the octane corrector plate to the distributor housing.
6. Install the distributor cover and connect the high-voltage wires in accordance with the operating procedure for cylinders 1-2-4-3.
7. Check the setting of the ignition timing. To do this, warm up the engine to a temperature of 80–90 ° С and, moving on a flat road at a speed of 30–40 km / h, sharply press the accelerator pedal all the way down. In this case, detonation must be heard for a short time. If the detonation is not heard, then the ignition is later. If the detonation is too strong, then the ignition is early. With early ignition, turn the distributor housing one scale division towards "+" (counterclockwise), and with late ignition, towards "-" (clockwise). Then check the ignition timing again while driving as described above.
8. A more accurate setting of the ignition timing can be made using a stroboscope in accordance with the instructions attached to the stroboscope.

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