Do-it-yourself battery installation: rules and technology. Installation of heating batteries: the technology of correct installation of radiators with your own hands How to mount aluminum radiators in a private house

Battery leaky? Want to replace your old bulky cast iron battery with a compact and more economical bimetallic one?Installing heating radiators is an inexpensive and surefire way to return heat to your home!

Heating radiator installation

Before starting work, consider some of the nuances:

Before replacing the battery, the water should be shut off only in the customer's apartment, and not in the entire house.

The water should be blocked only by employees of the ZhEK who have the appropriate qualifications for this. Even when replacing the battery with your own hands, entrust this activity to a specialist. Otherwise, you run the risk of leaving without water supply all residents, whose apartments are located on the riser.

Replacing the battery, ideally, should also be carried out by the ZhEK employees or specially hired workers. If the removal and installation by the customer was carried out independently, then all responsibility for the serviceability of the system lies with him.

Installation and replacement of the battery when using the pipe bending method and gas welding, instead of the usual installation system, should also be carried out by workers who have a certain qualification to carry out the work. increased level security.

Selection and installation of different types of radiators

On the market today there are radiators made of cast iron, aluminum, steel, as well as bimetallic radiators... How to choose the right one among them?

Cast iron radiators

Modern cast-iron radiators are no longer the bulky accordions that we are used to seeing in Khrushchevs and most Soviet apartments. Today they look like flat panels with rounded corners and a presentable look. Due to its physical properties, cast iron, when heated, retains heat for a long time, gradually giving it to the room.

Advantages: improved heat exchange, service life of about 25-50 years. Disadvantages: high weight (one section of the cast-iron battery weighs about 8 kg), therefore the installation of heating radiators made of cast iron is impossible in a number of rooms whose walls are made of wood or, for example, plasterboard. The only way to mount a radiator in such houses is through the wall. In addition, due to the rough surface and small gaps between the sections, such radiators are difficult to clean.

Disadvantages: large weight (one section of a cast-iron battery weighs about 8 kg), therefore the installation of heating radiators made of cast iron is impossible in a number of rooms whose walls are made of wood or, for example, plasterboard. The only way to mount a radiator in such houses is through the wall. In addition, due to the rough surface and small gaps between the sections, such radiators are difficult to clean.

Manufacturers: Model MC-140 or the so-called "accordion" is an eternal classic, well known to all of us. Transformed cast iron radiators can be found in the catalogs VIADRUS (Czech Republic), ROCA (Spain) and FERROLI (Italy), as well as domestic manufacturers - ChAZ (Cheboksary Aggregate Plant) or MZOO (Belarus). Price: from $ 8 per section.

Aluminum radiators

By design, modern aluminum radiators differ little from cast iron ones. However, the essential difference between them is the weight of the radiator sections.

Advantages: good heat transfer rates, the presence of ventilation windows that evenly distribute warm air throughout the room, the weight of the sections (only 1 kg!), smooth surface, can be fixed to any surface.

Disadvantages: susceptibility to chemical composition water, pressure surges in the pipeline.

Manufacturers: Due to the fact that a small radiator can heat a relatively large area, on the market you can find models from 80-100 mm in depth and center-to-center distance from 300 to 800 mm, and the number of sections in a radiator from 4 to 16. Models of Italian production are more common: radiators firms FONDITAL, DECORAL, RAGALL, FARAL, as well as a number of domestic radiators - SMK (Stupino) and MMZiK (Mias). Price: from $ 12 per section.

Bimetallic radiators

We can say that this type of radiator is a compromise between cast iron and aluminum. Externally, bimetallic radiators are difficult to distinguish from aluminum, however, such products are not sensitive to the composition of water and changes in pressure. The universal design of such heating radiators directs hot water through steel pipes, giving off heat to aluminum panels, and they heat the air in the room. Installation of a heating radiator of this type is the best of the options, both in price and in physical properties goods.

Advantages: weight, improved battery design, good heat transfer performance.

Disadvantages: has not yet been found.

Manufacturers: On the market you can find products of mainly Italian (SIRA, GLOBAL) and Czech manufacturers (ARMATHERMAL). The best domestic radiators are considered to be RIFAR (Gai, Orenburg region), TSVELIT-R (Ryazan) and SANTEKHPROM (Moscow). Price: from $ 15 per section.

Steel radiators

Steel panel radiators often have an embossed surface. This type of radiator is due to spot welding between the channels. However, some manufacturers produce steel radiators with a smooth front panel.

Advantages: high heat dissipation, flexible connection options.

Disadvantages: no serious deficiencies were identified.

Manufacturers: INSOLO (Turkey) produces a wide range of economical radiators with bottom and side connection types. The manufacturer's factories are almost completely automated and the involvement of human resources is minimized, which largely excludes the possibility of buying defective goods. These radiators are made of carbon steel with a protective zinc-phosphate coating. V lineup from this manufacturer you can find radiators from 300 to 900 mm in height and in lengths from 400 to 3000 mm. INSOLO radiators are supplied already equipped with valves with thermal heads.

Price: from $ 25. KERMI THERM X2 - German-made steel panel radiators. The design of KERMI PROFI K, V and VM radiators is fundamentally different from other models of a similar type - production radiators KERMI takes place according to the unique THERM X2 technology developed by the brand itself (opened in 2007). The panels in these models are not connected in parallel to the supply line, but in series, i.e. coolant - front panel - other panels. Due to this system, the front panel of the radiator heats up 25% faster, and less heat reaches the rear panel, i.e. there is no excessive overheating. Each model of such a radiator assumes its own type of connection: K - side, V and VM - bottom. Price: from 35 $.

Radiator installation rules

When replacing batteries throughout the house or apartment, it is important that the installation diagram of heating radiators is left and agreed with the appropriate specialists. It serves not only as a guide when performing installation works, but also, if drawn up correctly, will allow heating the room more efficiently, allowing the customer to save money.

Cut off the water in the apartment, and then at a specific site.

Drain water from the area to be replaced.

Blow out the pipes and expel any remaining water.

Dismantle the old radiator.

Install a new radiator, focusing on the installation instructions, as well as recommendations from the manufacturer (instructions for installing a certain type of radiator must be included with the certified product).

After completion of installation and pressure testing, the system is tested for leaks and operation of the radiator sections.

IMPORTANT! When choosing a radiator, consider: maximum heating temperature;

the maximum area, for normal heating of which a certain number of radiator sections can be used;

working pressure of this coolant;pressure indicator for crimping the system.

Installation of radiators: SNiP

Installation of heating - radiators for heating the room - must be carried out in accordance with SNiP 3.05.01-85.

General rules for installing heating radiators according to SNiP

The norms for installing heating radiators assume that the battery is mounted relative to the center of the window: so that it coincides with the center of the battery (in this case, the error should not exceed 2 cm).

Installation rules also suggest that the width of the radiator should be 50-75% of the width of the window sill.

The height of the battery installation above the floor should not exceed 12 cm from the level of the finished floor to the lower edge of the radiator. The distance between the upper panel of the radiator and the window sill should not be less than 5 cm.

The distance from the wall to the radiator should be 2 to 5 cm. In some cases, the wall surface must be covered with a special heat-reflecting material before installing the radiator.

IMPORTANT! You cannot place the radiator too low or close to the wall - this will significantly affect the heat transfer rates, and also simply make it difficult to clean under and behind the radiator.

IMPORTANT! When installing radiators in one-pipe heating systems, the use of more sections than was previously used is prohibited. When installing radiators in systems with artificial water circulation, if the number of sections is 24 or more, it is recommended to use a versatile method of connecting heating devices.

Installation of aluminum radiators

The procedure for installing aluminum radiators with your own hands:

Assemble the radiator by screwing in the radiator plugs, as well as the plug with gaskets and installing the thermostatic valve, Mayevsky valve and shut-off valves.

Guided by the above general rules for the location of the radiator relative to the window, mark the installation locations of the mounts.

If necessary, cover the surface of the wall with heat-reflecting material and fix the brackets to the wall (be sure to use a level to determine the horizontal, as well as a tape measure to determine the length of the bracket's entry into the wall).

Fasten the radiator to the brackets by placing their hooks between the battery sections.
Connect the radiator with a centralized or autonomous space heating system according to the selected connection diagram.

Installation of aluminum radiators can be carried out both in one- and two-pipe heating systems with horizontal or vertical piping. These radiators can also be used for space heating with natural and forced circulation of hot water. Today the market can offer two options for aluminum radiators:

Reinforced radiators with working pressure up to 16 atm. Such batteries are used for heating high-rise residential and non-residential buildings. For heating a private house, the use of this type of radiator is unjustified due to the high cost of the sections.

European type of aluminum radiators designed for heating a room when autonomous systems heating. The maximum working pressure in such radiators is no more than 6 atm.

The installation kit for aluminum radiators consists of:

an automatic or manual air release valve (the so-called Mayevsky valve);
plugs (right-hand or left-hand thread);
sealing gaskets;
racks or brackets;
shut-off or thermostatic valves.

Installation of cast iron radiators

Mounting cast iron radiators procedurally is basically the same as installing aluminum heating appliances... In the case of cast iron products, it is important, however, not to overload the wall, and also pay more attention to the dynamometric moments. Cast iron radiators are recommended to be installed at a slight slope so that hot air does not accumulate inside the radiator (this can lead to a decrease in the heat transfer of the device).

Cast iron radiators also have a different assembly system from others: before installing such a radiator, you need to unscrew, tighten the nipples and reassemble the radiator together. cast iron batteries v wooden houses and near walls with a relatively weak structure, options are provided for installation not on brackets, but on floor stands... In this case, wall mountings are also performed, however, they perform only a supporting function.

Installation of bimetallic radiators

The advantages of installing bimetallic radiators, and not cast iron or aluminum ones, are that they weigh relatively little and, provided that they are not inferior in terms of heat transfer to aluminum, bimetallic radiators are able to operate smoothly even at high pressure in the system. Installation method, as well general recommendations for the installation of such heating devices are indicated in the instructions for the product.

IMPORTANT! Pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the use of pipes made of a particular material in combination with bimetallic radiators. So, for example, for most houses, installation is provided only for metal pipes, and metal-plastic can only stand in private houses, whose heating system operates at high pressure.

$ The cost of installing heating radiators

The cost of installing a radiator will directly depend on the material of the product, the number of sections to be installed for one heating point, as well as the total number of heating points installed in the apartment. The total cost of installation will be influenced by both the connection diagram and the cost of the components required for the work. You can, of course, do such work with your own hands. However, this will make you fully responsible for the performance of the system, as well as for all possible Negative consequences related to its breakdown. So how much does it cost to install a radiator? On average, all work on the arrangement of one heating point in an apartment can be delayed by $ 40-50.

Radiator installation:

Kiev - 250-350 UAH per point;
Moscow - 2 650-3 000 rubles. per point.
The cost of work on the supply or replacement of heating pipes is calculated separately.

Installation of radiators: VIDEO

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: VIDEO

High-quality heating is a guarantee of a favorable climate in the house and the absence of cold weather even in the most severe frosts. Therefore, if you have an old and already ineffective radiator in your apartment or cottage, then it should be replaced. At first glance, this seems like a very difficult job, available only to specialized professionals with significant experience. But with due regard to the matter and the presence of some tools, installing heating batteries with your own hands does not pose a serious problem.

Battery location rules and wiring diagrams

In addition to the characteristics, it is very important that one of the factors affecting the efficiency of the heating system is the choice of the correct location for the location of the product. True, in most cases it is predetermined in advance - the new battery will most likely stand in the place of the old cast-iron battery, which has existed since the building was built. But still, here are some recommendations for the correct placement of the radiator.

First, it is advisable to place the battery under a window. The fact is that it is a "bridge" through which the cold from the street gets into an apartment or a cottage. The presence of a radiator under the window forms a kind of "thermal curtain" that interferes with the process described above. In this case, the battery should be placed strictly in the middle of the window, and, preferably, occupy up to 70-80% of its width. You can see what it is and how to install it on our page.

Secondly, the distance from the floor to the radiator must be at least 80-120 mm. If it is less, then it will be inconvenient to clean under the battery, a huge amount of dust and debris will accumulate there. And if the radiator is located higher, a certain amount of cold air will collect under it, which requires heating and, as a result, impairs the operation of the heating system. In addition, too little distance to the sill has a negative effect on the efficiency of the battery.

Thirdly, a distance of 2.5-3 cm is allowed between the rear of the radiator and the wall. If it is less, the processes of convection and movement of warm air flows are disrupted, and, as a result, the battery works less efficiently and spends some of the heat in vain.

Table. Standard schemes for connecting heating batteries.

Name	Description
	Due to the specifics of the location of the risers of heating systems in residential buildings, such a battery connection scheme is the most common. It is quite easy to implement, the efficiency of the radiator is average. The main disadvantages of this connection method are visible pipes and inability to handle batteries with big amount sections.
	The second most common scheme for connecting radiators. The main advantage is the uniform circulation of water throughout the battery, and, as a result, high work efficiency.
	A similar scheme is often used in country houses- many cottage owners prefer to hide heating communications under the floor so that they do not spoil appearance rooms. But at the same time bottom connection radiator is 12-15% less efficient than diagonal.

Video - Replacing heating radiators in winter

DIY heating battery installation - step by step instructions

Consider the process of installing a bimetallic battery, connected sideways to one-pipe system heating. It should be said that in this case the work was carried out in a building where the temperature in the radiators was relatively low, therefore the supply and bypass were made of metal-plastic pipes... Before you start installing the battery yourself, familiarize yourself with the device and the characteristics of the heating system in your home. It may be that for your apartment or cottage, connecting pipes will need to be made of materials that are more resistant to high temperatures.

Let's divide the process of installing a heating battery with our own hands into several separate stages:

dismantling the old radiator;
installation of a new bypass and shut-off valves;
installing the battery and connecting it to the supply line.

Preparation for work. Removing the old battery

Do-it-yourself installation of the heating battery begins with the preparation of the tool and the dismantling of the old radiator. In this example, we will be talking about a standard cast iron product, which still heats many apartments. How are installed You can read in our article.

Step 1. Bring a new battery home. Unpack it, check the package contents - everything you bought is in place. Also inspect the radiator itself for any damage or defects.

Step 2. Cut the new battery pack into two equal parts. Use one as a substrate for the radiator - this way you will not scratch it on the floor covering. Place the second part of the package behind the heating riser - when dismantled with a grinder, a sheet of cardboard will protect the wall from contamination.

Step 3. Prepare everything you need to dismantle the old and install a new radiator - fittings, taps, pipes, tools. Determine for yourself what and where should lie - the search for something necessary for installation, but lost among the clutter, can significantly slow down the work on replacing the battery.

Step 4. Remove the three-way valve connecting the heating riser, bypass and supply. First, loosen it with an adjustable wrench. If water starts to drip - screw everything back up immediately - most likely, the riser was not closed properly. And if everything is in order - work on dismantling the crane further.

Step 5. Next, detach old battery and eyeliner from the riser. First unscrew the nut on the thread bend. Then determine how far you can cut this thread so that you can then mount the tee connecting the line, bypass and riser without any problems.

Advice! In some cases old paint applied to the nut and riser to bypass and piping connection may interfere with operation. You can remove it using a conventional retractable knife or wire brush.

Step 6. Remove the battery from the mounts.

Step 7. At the previously determined mark on the thread bends connecting the heating riser to the battery, cut it with a grinder.

Step 8. Remove the old battery and take it to a place where it will not interfere with further work. Given the high weight of the cast iron radiator, pair it with someone if possible.

Step 9. Remove the old battery mounts from the wall. If they are particularly tight, use a hammer and chisel.

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Before the installation of a heating radiator with your own hands begins, everything you need to carefully prepare for this work in order to please the final result.

The slightest unaccounted for detail during the operation of the heating structure can turn around in the future big problems, up to an emergency.

Therefore, the installation of heating radiators in apartment building should be carried out by the workers of housing and communal services (plumbers). In his own house, the owner himself decides whether to use the services of professionals or to do the installation on his own. True, in order to avoid repairing the premises after the hot stream causes serious damage, the property owner should familiarize himself with the information regarding the rules and nuances of installing radiators (read also: "").

Preparing to install heating radiators with your own hands

First of all, the owner needs to figure out the type of wiring that was once used in the arrangement of the heat supply structure. If the owner of a suburban home ownership created it with his own hands, he knows which heating circuit is mounted in the house - one-pipe or two-pipe. From the wiring diagram and design features equipment depends largely on the choice of system elements and their number.

Parts required for correct installation

The parts that are required to install the batteries with your own hands are bought based on the characteristics of the heating system device. For example, if the radiator is to be used in one-pipe heating, then a bypass is needed. Thanks to this element, if it is necessary to carry out repairs or, the heating in the room does not need to be turned off. This moment is very important, since in the winter cold it is undesirable to cut off the heat supply to the house.

The installation diagram of heating radiators and the type of heating device determine how many connecting and other functional parts need to be purchased in order to carry out the installation correctly (read also: ""). According to the project and the size of the batteries, such elements as nipples, angles, couplings, adapters are selected. Shut-off valves are also required.

Experts recommend purchasing shut-off valves of the radiator type and not giving preference to complex ball valves with the so-called "American", since their installation requires professional skills. Without experience, it will be quite problematic for the contractor to ensure the tightness of the joints.

When installing a heating radiator with your own hands, in order to connect it to the pipeline, you need squeegees that have a thread that matches the pipes. A sleeve is also screwed onto the sleeves, which is then twisted and inserted into the battery. With the help of the squeegees shown in the photo, it is easier to connect the radiator to the circuit and there is no need to use welding to connect the joints between the supply line and the pipeline.

If you plan to do it, the first step is to make sure that the brackets included in the kit match the material from which the walls of the room are built.

The rules for installing heating radiators regulate that it is necessary to remove air that has got there from the device, and for this it is usually equipped with a Mayevsky crane. As a rule, it comes with the factory, otherwise you need to purchase it.

There are strict rules on how to install a heating radiator:

the supply pipeline to the heating devices should be positioned with a slope of 0.5 centimeters per meter of pipe in the direction of the coolant circulation. Calculate the angle of inclination, taking into account the length of the mounted pipe sections;
distance from plane flooring up to the radiator cannot be less than 6-10 centimeters;
it is required to observe the gap between the bottom of the window sill and the top line of the battery, equal to 5-10 centimeters:
the distance between the wall surface and the radiator should be 3-5 centimeters.

Among mandatory conditions installation of devices - exact observance of horizontal and vertical directions. It is customary to install batteries at the same level in one room. To increase the efficiency of heat transfer from the radiator, a heat-reflecting shield made of a special material is placed on the wall located behind it. It is possible to coat the surface of the wall with a compound with similar properties.

Battery layout with mounts: rules

Correctly installing a heating battery with your own hands involves the initial design of the heating structure and the implementation of appropriate calculations, including, inter alia, determining the number of battery sections required to heat the building. According to the installation rules, one "square" of the heating surface of the device requires one bracket for fastening (read also: ""). The fastener House master can easily do it yourself.

Before correctly installing the heating radiator, the following work must be done:

taking into account the above rules, mark the attachment points of the brackets;
before drilling holes, once again check the correctness of the marking;
dowels are inserted into the prepared holes and fasteners are screwed in.

With the correct marking, the radiator will fit snugly on the installed supports, leaning firmly on them. Then the device should be connected to the elements of the communication system (in more detail: "").

Tools and materials

Contractor of works on self-assembly heating batteries, it is necessary to carry with you torque wrenches with dimensions that allow you to maintain the torque moment with a high degree of accuracy. Because the fluid circulates through the system under significant pressure, poor sealing results in jet leaks from the connection. In the case of excessive constriction, the likelihood of a similar problem is high.

For this reason, the manufacturer's instructions for the devices should be strictly followed, as they contain the values of the torque moments. You will also need a sealant, tow, impregnated oil paint... You can use a special sealing tape.

Installation work: diagram

Before starting work, completely shut off the heating circuit, drain the coolant from the system. The remaining liquid is helped to remove the circulation pump. Using a level, check the battery hung on the fasteners relative to the horizontal and vertical position.

Then:

unscrew all the plugs from the radiator;
if the heating circuit is one-pipe, proceed to connecting the bypass equipped with a valve. At two-pipe scheme correct installation heating radiators do not provide for the use of a bypass, but a squeegee with a valve attached to it is used for connection.

The battery is connected to the heating structure using threaded squeegees. The joints are sealed with tow or other sealant. If you have the skills, they use welding at the joints of the sills and the pipeline. Until the work on the installation of aluminum, steel and bimetallic radiators is completed, the factory packaging shell is not removed from them. Read also: "".

After the installation is completed, the system must be pressurized. Plumbers should do such activities, since they have experience and they have an apparatus that it makes no sense to purchase to install a pair of batteries.

Radiator installation methods

Methods for installing heating radiators depend on the layout of these devices and are as follows:

one-way connection;
diagonal;
bottom.

Features of the installation of cast iron radiators

Despite the latest appliances that provide space heating, such as ultra-light and aesthetic bimetallic and aluminum products, cast iron radiators are still in demand among property owners. And although cast iron products are not distinguished by their exquisite design, the batteries remain hot for a long time, gradually transferring heat to the surrounding space.

There are specific design features of a cast-iron device that must be taken into account when installing them:

Before installation, the battery must be unscrewed, then the nipples must be adjusted and the device must be reassembled. For disassembly, you will need a workbench, a pair of radiator keys that fit the configuration to the nipple holes. To unscrew the lower nipple, it is necessary to insert a crowbar into the eye of the key to unscrew the lower nipple and thereby increase the applied force. To avoid skewing, both nipples (upper and lower) should be unscrewed at the same time, so it is advisable to do the work together. The following point is important: on opposite sides of the cast-iron product, the thread has the opposite direction. Then the section is removed;
in a similar way, it is required to screw all sections and then connect them in a single radiator in reverse order, based on the need for heating a particular room. The assembled battery, consisting of a certain number of sections, must be crimped. If a leak is detected at the device, the nipple located in the problem area should be adjusted;
wall models cast iron radiators can only be mounted on brick or foam concrete walls. Wooden enclosing structures will not support their weight, so the owner of such a house needs to purchase batteries with floor supports, but the walls should also have fasteners supporting the devices (read also: "");
since usually in own houses, as a rule, one-pipe heating is required, the installation of a bypass is required. The scheme must also contain the necessary shut-off valves and Mayevsky's valve;
the installation height of cast iron heating radiators above the floor cannot exceed 12 centimeters from the level of the finished floor covering to the lower edge of the heating devices;
for connecting such batteries, threaded squeegees are used.

As is clear from the information given in the article, there is nothing complicated in the technology of installing radiators. Knowing the rules for creating a heating structure and following the sequence of actions, every home craftsman can perform this work on one's own. Particular attention must be paid to tightness, which is able to ensure that there are no leaks.

Correct installation of the radiator with your own hands in the video:

In order to tackle self-installation(replacement) of heating radiators, it is necessary:

have time and desire;
know how to connect batteries;
study the rules of correct connection;
make accurate calculations and measurements;
have the necessary tool.

We skip the first point, because if there is a desire, nothing is impossible. Plus, good hands-on experience can come in handy more than once. Let's move on to the next one.

Wiring methods for heating radiators

Side one-way connection... This type of connection is the most common. It consists in connecting the supply pipe to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower one. This method of connection provides the greatest heat transfer. If hot water is supplied from below, the supply pipe is connected to the lower branch pipe, the power is reduced by 5-7%. If a one-sided side connection is used when installing multi-section radiators, and the last sections do not warm up enough, an extension of the water flow is additionally installed.
Bottom connection... This type of battery wiring is used in cases where the heating pipes are hidden in the floor or under the baseboard. This is the most acceptable way to connect from an aesthetic point of view. Both connections (supply and return) are located at the bottom and are directed vertically to the floor.
Diagonal connection rationally applied in relation to multi-section radiators (from 12 sections and more). The piping principle is that the hot water supply pipe is connected to the upper pipe on one side of the battery, and the return pipe is brought out through the lower pipe on the reverse side.

At serial connection the coolant moves under the influence of pressure inside the heating system. To remove excess air, a Mayevsky crane is installed on the radiators. The disadvantage of such a connection: replacing a radiator, repairing it or an emergency requires a complete shutdown of the heating system, which is not very convenient to do in the cold season.
Installation of radiators when parallel connection provides for such a wiring in which the coolant flows through a heat pipe built into the heating system. The diversion is carried out in a similar way. Installed taps at the inlet and outlet allow you to replace the radiator without shutting down common system heating. The disadvantage of such a connection: the radiators do not warm up enough at low pressure in the system.

We connect correctly!

It doesn't matter if you are going to install bimetallic, aluminum or cast iron batteries, the general installation rules apply to all types. To ensure normal heat exchange and warm air movement, the specified distance must be observed, namely:

For normal circulation of heated air, which has a positive effect on the heat transfer of the heat source, it is necessary to provide a distance of 5-10 centimeters from the upper grille to the window sill.
Between the bottom surface heating battery and a gap of 8-12cm should remain on the floor.
The distance between the radiator and the wall is 2-5cm. If you plan to install reflective insulation on the wall, the standard fixings may be short. In such cases, hooks are purchased with a slightly longer length.

Calculation of the required number of radiator sections

The initial information for the calculation can be found when purchasing batteries. But you can use the good old rule: one section can heat 2 square meters area with a ceiling height of 2.7 m. When calculating, they round up. Naturally, heat the corner apartment panel house and an insulated cottage are two big differences, so the calculation the required amount sections should be made individually, based on the technical characteristics of the radiators and specific conditions.

Tool for installing or replacing radiators

The obligatory set of tools includes: a screwdriver, pliers, a building level, a tape measure, a pencil, a wrench for tightening the pipes, an impact drill. To install the sections, you will need a special key, therefore we recommend ordering the collection and connection of sections right in the store. When installing bimetallic radiators with your own hands, do not use emery or a file to clean the surfaces to be joined.

The procedure for replacing heating batteries

dismantling the old battery;
markings for attaching a new one;
installation of brackets and radiator canopy;
assembly of an installation kit, installation of a valve and a valve under a thermal head, a Mayevsky crane;
connection of heating pipes.

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Discussion:

Sergey said:

Mister (lady) Ann !!! It is necessary for you not just to flip through textbooks on heating engineering! And we need to start with a textbook on the natural history of primary classes, which says that when heated, liquids and gases rise up, and when cooled, they go down. Hot water can enter the lower corner of the radiator and exit from the lower corner of the opposite side. And already hot water will definitely go up. The main condition is the absence of an airlock. To eliminate it, Mayevsky's companion is installed.

Elena said:

Hello, I have a problem after replacing the heating throughout the house, bimetal radiators were installed instead of cast-iron batteries. which do not warm I can not find the reason. I live in an apartment building two-story house, riser from the supply from the second floor, one for two rooms. wound up with a pipe with a cross section of 20, then it goes to 15mm -20 cm, then the first battery goes, then 1.5 meters of a pipe with a cross section of 15 mm goes through the first battery and the second battery cuts into the return line. The first (10 sections) heats up only the upper part. The second (12 sections) barely warm upper part. This year the return line of the second one was looped back and the first one became even worse, please tell me we have been freezing for two years already. there is no air in the battery, the dirt has already been removed and washed.

One of the many advantages of individual private housing is a heating network that is not tied to a CHP or boiler houses, does not depend on the timing of the beginning and end of the general heating season and does not experience all the charms of unstable pressure in the network. heating installation is carried out at the request of the owner. He also decides which heating batteries are better for installation in a private house.

Choosing a radiator design

Local parameters heating system- an important characteristic when choosing a heating. The private house system has the following advantages:

operated under favorable conditions and low pressure;
the quality of the coolant is much better than in the systems of multi-storey buildings;
there are no pressure surges, there is no threat of water hammer.

With such characteristics, the choice of radiator models is quite wide. When buying batteries, it is worth focusing on a high efficiency ratio with the right price-performance ratio. Devices made of any material are suitable for a home system.

Consider different battery designs:

Panel and sectional radiators are often the most inexpensive. With good heat transfer, they are compact. They can be installed in the heating system according to different connection schemes.

Tubular batteries are more expensive than previous options, but technical specifications are approximately the same. The increased price is added up due to more stylish design... They are also convenient for drying things.

Varieties of radiators by material of manufacture

Various batteries are suitable for installation in the private sector. Consider the features of each type.

Aluminum

They are widely used in private homes. Have stylish modern design as well as good heat output... Heat up quickly when plugged in and cool down quickly when unplugged. The price range is different and depends on the manufacturer. The most expensive and high-quality ones are made by companies in Italy. Russian counterparts are slightly inferior in operation. Their cost is much lower.

Cast iron

Such radiators are resistant to wear and corrosion, since the inner surface from contact with water is covered with a compound that prevents the destruction of batteries. Can withstand high temperatures and pressure surges in the system. They heat up for a long time and give off heat for a long time when turned off. Such devices require annual cleaning.

Bimetallic

They successfully combine such qualities as: the strength of cast iron and the effective heat transfer of aluminum. They have good resistance to pressure surges and do not corrode. Like aluminum counterparts, they are in demand for their characteristics, but the high price often scares off buyers.

Steel

Such radiators are characterized by high heat transfer and original design... Stainless steel models have a high cost. Cheaper designs are prone to corrosion.

Where are the radiators installed?

When choosing a place in a private house for installing heating batteries, you need to proceed from the presence of windows. In ordinary rooms, batteries are usually placed under a windowsill.

Otherwise, the flow of cold air will descend along the wall and spread over the entire surface of the floor. An obstacle to this will be the installation of radiators below the window sills. For better protection against cold, according to SNIPA standards, the battery should occupy at least 70% of the window width.

Important! A powerful radiator of the wrong size will not provide the required level of heating the room. Cold air will "drain" to the floor on the side of the battery. Condensation may form on walls where warm and cold streams meet. This will lead to dampness. And the windows themselves will fog up.

When installing the battery under the window, make sure that the window sill does not completely overlap the radiator. This can reduce the density of the warm air flowing in and reduce its efficiency. With hot radiators and the presence of small children, you can cover the heating devices with special screens.

For private houses located in areas with a cold climate, radiators are mounted next to the door. The place is chosen closer to the entrance. Radiators must always be easily accessible.

Connection diagrams

The method of installing heating radiators in a private house depends on: the efficiency of the entire structure, possible losses of heat energy.

The following schemes for connecting pipes and batteries will be more successful:

Diagonal diagram. It is considered the most efficient option with maximum efficiency. The coolant is supplied from the upper branch pipe on one side of the battery, and the return pipe is located at the bottom on the other. The circuit got its name due to the diagonal arrangement of the connection points. In this case, the coolant is more evenly distributed, moving from top to bottom, filling the entire cavity of the radiator.
One-sided or side scheme. With this option, the branch pipe with the supply of the coolant is located on top, and with the return from below, and only on one side of the radiator. Heat is not always distributed evenly, the first few sections are hotter. This scheme works well in private homes with a small floor space. But it is possible to increase the effectiveness of such a connection if you install a circular pump.
Lower and saddle diagrams. Such methods are convenient for pipes hidden under the baseboards. In the first connection option, entry and exit occurs at the same point. With saddle connection, the inlet and outlet pipes are located at the bottom on different sides of the battery. With the external aesthetics of these methods, they have a fairly large percentage of heat loss (almost 15%).

We select the necessary components

For the upcoming work, you need to prepare the tools. From shut-off and connecting fittings we purchase taps, gates, valves, thermostats. For installation, adapters are needed that allow you to connect parts of different diameters: couplings, squeegees. Brackets and corners are purchased for fixing devices on the wall. Bypasses (bridges in the form of pipe sections) are also required, which are installed between two lines of the pipeline. It is necessary to check in advance the presence of all elements in the composition so that during installation you do not have to look for missing parts.

When installing batteries, the possibility of hiding the pipes of the heating system under the wall coverings is also taken into account. If there is decorative plastic or plasterboard lining, then packing the supporting parts of the heating system in them will increase the aesthetic appearance of the room. The ends of the pipes with the existing thread are brought out. This is done so that during subsequent installations of radiators it is not necessary to spoil the wall covering. The necessary parts for installation are selected taking into account the thread diameter.

Modern pipe joining methods provide for both welding and threaded assembly. Both options do not affect battery life or warmth, but differ in several ways. For example, welds are more reliable, while threads are more resistant to mechanical stress and vibrations. In addition, in older houses, it is often impossible to make threads on pipes. The way out is welding.

But in new houses they put pipes from modern materials, such as: polypropylene, metal-plastic. Welding is no longer used to connect them.

Wall markings for brackets

When installing a heating system with natural circulation in a private house, the pipelines are located at an angle of at least 6 ° to the direction in which the coolant flows. Failure to do so may result in air bubbles and air congestion.

We apply markings to the location of the future radiator for installing the holders.

Do not forget! The radiator must not be hung close to the wall. The efficiency of such an installation will be low. There should be a space of 5-10 cm between the surfaces. The battery is mounted from the floor at a distance of 10-12 cm and from the window sill - 8-10 cm.

The markings for the future heating device are made strictly according to the level. With a pencil, mark the installation locations of the brackets. They are mounted in such a way as to be located in the gaps between the radiator sections. And the brackets themselves are selected in accordance with the purchased batteries, their weight and dimensions.

Having marked the necessary points, holes are drilled required diameter under the mountings. It remains to fix the dowels with a hammer and fix the brackets using self-tapping screws. There are special mounts for batteries that are threaded and screwed directly into the dowel.

How many brackets do I need for a specific battery? The seller in the store can help with this question. building materials... Usually, 3 fasteners are acquired on a device in six sections: two are installed at the top, one at the bottom.

To reduce heat loss on the wall, a layer of foil or a thin heat insulator with a foil surface is fixed. But between it and the radiator, it is imperative to leave a gap of at least 2-3 cm. Such a simple design will make the heat transfer from the heating device somewhat more efficient.

Calculation of the required power of the radiator

Having chosen the brand of batteries, it is worth calculating the power for specific premises. Exists complex formulas, by which you can calculate how much heat energy is required to heat the area of a particular room. But you can estimate approximately: for heating 1 m³ modern home need 20 watts. Having calculated the volume of the room, we multiply the resulting value by 20 and divide by the power of one battery section. What happened in the end is the required number of sections for a particular room. If there are old wooden frames on the windows, 15% is added to the indicator.

To replace and install all radiators, the heating system is completely shut off both in a private and in an apartment building. The water remaining in the pipes is drained. And its remains are pumped out using a pump.

Assembling the radiator

Before installing the radiator, it must be assembled. Disconnect the part with threaded connection and wrap this place with a reel. To do this, use tow with oil paint or more modern version- a sealing paste that can withstand high temperatures. A special fum tape is also used to help seal the pipe joints.

Before winding on the thread, apply a wide layer of paste and distribute the composition over the junction. A prepared strip of tow is wrapped around the pipe in the direction of the thread.

Next, we put on the nut from the crane on the part with tow and carefully screw the entire structure into the battery plug. We do it first by hand, and then tighten it with a wrench. In the same way, we mount Mayevsky's taps and plugs on inactive pipes.

Advice! Standard spacers can be used instead of tows.

Assembly and installation

We will draw up a step-by-step plan for all work on installing batteries in a private house.

Marking and installation of fasteners.
Installation of all components on the battery.
Mandatory installation of an air vent. It can be either automatic or manual. This device is screwed into the adapter and installed opposite the place where the pipe with the coolant supply is connected.
If the diameters of the water supply and drainage pipes do not match with the radiator pipes, adapters are used. They are included in the standard connection kit.
Installation of regulating and locking devices. Experts advise be sure to install Ball Valves, which help to shut off the flow of the coolant to a specific radiator in case of repair without stopping the entire system.
Fitting radiators to brackets.
Connection of pipes with supply and outlet of the coolant to the radiator, depending on the selected scheme. The choice of method (welding, threading, crimping) depends on the pipe material and fittings used.
Checking the supply of coolant to the system or pressure testing. To turn on the supply of coolant to the heating system of a private house, the valves must be opened slowly. Sudden jerks and a full turn of the crane will lead to the destruction of the heating system, rupture of the connecting fittings.

Do not forget! Radiators are sold in packaging foil. Do not remove it during installation until the end of installation work. Then you do not have to clean the batteries from contamination. Only the joints with the pipes are released from the film.

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