Detailed instructions for mounting a plasterboard partition. How to make a plasterboard partition how to make interior partitions from drywall

Plasterboard often turns out to be the only affordable materialWith which you can redecessing the room. Yes, and it is often possible to give the walls of the divine look only with GLK. The plasterboard wall is good because it can be done independently, without hiring the team of professionals for such work. Maximum may need one assistant.

It can be significantly saved if you buy a screw of 25 with a length of 25, and not 35 mm. According to the rules, the screws after screwing should look at the opposite side by 1 cm, so many try to take 35-milmitic reserves, but it is not always justified. If the thickness of the sheet is 12.5 mm, then adding another 10 mm to which the self-sufficiency should perform, we get 22.5 mm. The thickness of the profile is insignificant, so it can not be taken into account in the calculations.

The minimum thickness thickness of the plasterboard is 4 centimeters. It is necessary to add the width of the guides (27 mm) to the thickness of the plasterboard (12.5 mm). If we are talking about a partition in the room, then you need to add another thickness mock mall, which the wall is trimmed from both sides. As a result, it will turn out 52 mm. Creating a frame of the wall, it is customary to retreat from her about 5 cm to work comfortably with profiles. Otherwise, it will be difficult even to drill holes.

Installation of interior partitions from drywall seems to many difficult process available only experimental masters. Following our step-by-step instructions, you can easily mount the interroom partition with your own hands without possessing any special skills.

Plasterboard One of the most comfortable materials for mounting interior partitions.

The benefits include:

  • ease of installation;
  • availability of materials;
  • the extensiveness of designer opportunities to create various shapes and partitions - arches, niches, shelves;
  • simple disassembly;
  • low weight that does not create load on overlap;
  • the possibility of finishing with any materials - paint, tile, wallpaper, PVC panels;
  • frame structure allowing intra-freeway insulation, sound insulation.

Plasterboard partition. Installation instructions

Several basic steps detailed instructions And the minimum set of tools will allow you to create a simple plasterboard partition with your own hands.

Preparatory work

Before starting the installation of the partition, it is necessary to thoroughly think over its design, operating functions, as well as design. To do this detailed drawing Rooms with a future wall.

If necessary, visit the local BTI bodies to harmonize the project.

Release the room from furniture as much as possible, or cover with a film.

Decide, from which material you will make a frame. The base can be metallic or wooden. Metallic profile - Comfortable and reliable option, unlike wooden bardoes not require drying to eliminate deformation stewing, antiseptic machining. The profile is resistant to moisture, fungus, mold.

Treat all the communication, wiring through the partition, the position of the sockets in advance.

Preparation of materials and tools

You will need a plasterboard 12.5 mm or 9.5 mm. 12.5 mm sheets are used more often. You can use and "nine", provided that more frequent arrangement of profiles. However, note that in this case the sound absorbing and vibration-resistant properties of the structure are reduced. Also, for the installation of a partition in a room with high humidity, it is recommended to use G Clap (gypsum walls moisture resistant).

The sealing tape is laid in the joint between the profile along the contour of the partition and the enclosing structures.

Starting (guides) profiles and racks are used:

  • UW 50X40 under the CW 50x50 - if the cover is planned in one layer with a thickness of up to 7.5 cm or two layers up to 10 cm;
  • UW 75x40 under CW 75x50 - for a single-layer to 10 cm, two-layer to 17.5 cm;
  • UW 100x40 under CW 100x50 - in one layer to 15 cm, two to 20 cm.

When the partition requires a special strength, in case of hanging shelves or cabinets, it should be purchased instead of rack profiles reinforced or strengthen the usual profiles to bear wooden bars.

When creating a loop in the frame, we recommend using mortgages from the bar that you need to insert into the cavity of the frame profiles. Bruses should be dried, slightly less in thickness than profiles. For example, in metal racks 10 cm, the bar is inserted 9.5 cm.

Fasteners on the surface:

  • dowels for mounting on concrete and brick masonry - from 3.7 cm;
  • self-tapping screws - 3-5 cm;
  • fasteners for frame - Self-tapping screws with a press walker 13 mm;
  • fasteners for GLK - screws with a secret hat - 2.5-2.7 cm;

Sound and thermal insulation materials (if desired) are laid inside the partition. Good sound insulation Provide dense mats mineral WatWhile the polystyrene is clearly not suitable for this.

And also prepare the tools:

  • screwdriver or drill with carrying;
  • level of alcohol, level;
  • markup pencil;
  • scissors for metal / wooden tree;
  • plumb;
  • roulette;
  • construction knife.

After everything is ready, you can proceed to the construction of the structure. This work consists of two main stages:

  1. Installing a frame.
  2. Installation of plasterboard.
  3. Installing guides.

Before installing metal carcass Designs with a pencil level Make the appropriate line markers on the floor, ceiling and walls. In this case, the most convenient to use the level. Also mark the arrangement of vertical profiles with a pitch of 600 mm.

Secure sealing tape on the outside of the guide profiles.

Then screw them up with their grooves up the perimeter using self-samples and / or dowels (depending on the surface material). Fastening step - 40-50 cm. If walls or ceiling with significant drops, curvature surface, place them in the level with lining or wedges.

Formation of a doorway frame

During the installation of the frame, you must first provide for the interior door.

Form the door frame in such a sequence:

  1. Make cutting rack profiles of the desired length, in the cavity of the profile, laid the bar for amplification.
  2. Insert the resulting elements into the grooves of the guide profiles on the ceiling and the floor at the desired distance to install the door box.
  3. Set horizontally, at the desired height, profile jumper over the future door frame.
  4. All items, after checking the level, secure 13-16 mm self-stairs with a press washer.
  5. Installing rack profiles.

In the grooves of ceiling and floor starting slats, insert the racks every 60 or 40 cm (the fewer gaps, the stronger the design). It can be placed in 120 cm, but such a partition will be extremely fragile, decorative, and is unlikely to suit the role of interroom with the doorway.

Before screwing the rack profiles to the guides, secure to the opposite walls of the thread-plumb to adjust the level and, making sure that the design does not have bends / distortions, secure the rack.

To create a ribbiness, in places where the horizontal docking of plasterboard sheets will be held, set the jumpers from the profile. To do this, cut off the scissors on the metal pieces of the profile and secure them to the racks. This is usually done before installing GLC, however, it is easiest to install them after the obstruction of one side of the partition.

Overlooking partition frame

Before mounting the first sheet, it is necessary to note the accuracy of its adjacent to the wall and trim, if necessary, on the shape of the wall (if it is with a level drop). Difficulties should not occur with the cover of the partitions of a complex shape, especially with inclined frenzes or figure elements.

When the ceiling height is greater than the length of the GLC, the sheets are stacked in a checker order. The easiest way to consolidate all the whole sheets, in the first row from the floor, in the second - from the ceiling, and so on, alternating. After that, pieces are cut into full filling of the partition surface.

GOK mounting step on the edges of 20-25 cm, in the middle you can make passes by 30, but more conveniently the same 20-25 cm, since most manufacturers put a marking line on sheets precisely, taking into account this distance, which is very convenient for beginners. Shutters of screws should not be draped into a sheet and leave sticking on the surface. It is better to make flush with light immersion of heads. In the edges / edges, turn screws are not recommended, make an indent 2 cm.

The installation field of one side in the frame cavity can be fixed heat / sound insulation materials.

ATTENTION! It is not necessary to pruning the GLC a corner-glare machine, as it often makes newcomers, the room covers white dust, and the edges will look torn, inaccurate. It is enough to cut from two sides along the cardboard line a little indenting a building knife in the gypsum, and after turning the sheet, laying along the cut line on a flat edge of the table or putting a thick board under it. Also help the advice of professionals in relation to working with plasterboard

Basic Rules for Mounting GLK:

  • Leave deformation gaps with surrounding surfaces - with a floor of 1 cm, with a ceiling of 0.5 cm
  • Remove the chamfers on all seams of drywall before installation, if there are no, for subsequent reinforcement and shtcloth.
  • If the trim on the one hand goes to the right left, the other side is waving from left to right to shut down the seams in the rows.
  • Do not forget to celebrate posting places if it is hidden. Holes for sockets cut with crowns. Wires must be laid in the corrugated PVC tube.

That's all. The partition remains to sharpen and bind any suitable finishing material.

To make the room unique and original, designers apply the methods of zoning rooms. One of these methods is interior partitions. There are many species of partitions ( brick, Wooden, Glass etc.), but the most optimal choice is a plasterboard partition. It is light, durable, does not occupy a lot of space, and the main thing you can build it yourself. Let's find out how to make a partition from drywall do it yourself - a step-by-step instruction of this process will facilitate the task.

Gypsum Carton partition in the interior of the house

During the construction of the house, the inner partitions are most often not provided, but only the bearing walls. This is done so that the owners themselves make a decision, what size do they want the rooms where the partitions are located. To implement various ideas, you can use such material as plasterboard. It is not heavy, easily bends and helps to perform any designer fantasy.

Plasterboard partitions can zonate space, beat furniture, television zone or aquarium, create beautiful, niches and just a beautiful decorative partition. With it, you can create beautiful curly elements that will move from the septum on the ceiling or adjacent walls, make an interesting backlight (all cables will reliably hide inside the design), or create niches for storing books, favorite heart of baubles and paintings. It all depends on the flight of the owner of the room. And to realize this beauty to life will help such a beautiful material as plasterboard.

Note: The main advantage of such designs is easy dismantling. For example, when changing in life, you can easily remove such a partition during the repair and make a new one elsewhere or simply expand the space in the room.

How to make a plasterboard partition with their own hands? Step-by-step instruction.

Make a plasterboard partition independently easy. Let's look at how to do it. To work, you will need:

  1. Screwdriver and perforator.
  2. Profile guide and rack.
  3. Saws and dowels.
  4. Plumb, level or laser level.
  5. Plasterboard.
  6. Roulette and marker.
  7. Construction knife.
  8. Scissors for metal.
  9. A hammer.
  10. Reinforcing tape.
  11. Primer, putty and spatula.
In addition, if switches or backlight are provided in the partition, then you will need:
  • cables;
  • sockets;
  • switches and lamps.

To begin with, we choose a place for the future design and with the help of the level we draw the exact location of the guide profiles around the partition perimeter.

Tip: For more accurate markup, it is better to use a laser level. But since it is an expensive thing, it can be leased in relevant organizations.

At the next stage, measure the desired profile size and cut it off. You can start setting. The profile applies to the wall on the mark and drill the hole in the hole under the dowel. The distance between the holes 30 is 40 cm. In this way the perimeter of the partition is mounted.

Next mounted rack profiles. We measure the height of the room with a tape measure or other measuring devices and cut off the profile by 10 mm less. First, the profiles are installed at the location of the opening. The horizontal jumper is cut into the desired size and is fixed with self-assembly on the profiles installed in the doorway.

Tip: If you plan to install the door in the opening, profiles should be strengthened with a wooden bar inserted into the middle.

After that, the remaining profiles are placed at a distance of 60 cm or at the rate of 3 profiles per 1 sheet of plasterboard.

The rack profiles are attached to the guides using self-tapping screws. Now you can mount plasterboard sheets. For this, the size of the sheet in height should be less than a 10 mm room. If the sheet is greater than the desired size, it can be cut off using a building knife.

On the cut edge we make a chamfer at an angle of 300 for convenient walls of the wall. Plasterboard is attached to the profile with self-draws first to the middle profile, and then to the extreme. The distance between the screws 25 - 30 cm.

After the sheaving one side of the partition, we lay the cables of the future wiring through the holes in the profiles. Now you can lay soundproofing material and sew the design on the other side. At the end of the attachment of plasterboard, the joints and locations of the screws of the primer should be treated. Next, we apply to the joints with a putty mass, glue reinforcing tape and put sandy again. To install lamps or switches, we make holes with a cutter. Partition is ready. For a more aesthetic type of partition, it is necessary to put the entire surface of the drywall.

You can find out detailed information on the installation of plasterboard partitions from the video:

Where will be the plasterboard partition be relevant?

As a partition is known - this is a lightweight version of the wall, the main function of which separation of space. But there are also partitions, which serve as a decorative element in the room and are decoration. For example, a plasterboard partition perfectly fit into the bedroom for selection of the dressing room or emphasize sleeping zone in the studio apartment. She can serve in one-room apartment For visual zoning and separation of the room for several separate rooms. In its cavity, you can hide various communications (cables, pipes, installations to suspended toilets).

Also possible beat aquariumwhich will be visible from two rooms or television zone. With the help of the partition you can hide the built-in furniture And give the room lightness and space. BUT select the openings using arched structures Now accessible to each wishes, so these building materials are not expensive. Can make a partition with shelves for books And other little things fit in the farm. And the decorative illumination will give the room with lightness and airiness.

Do not stop on the proposed versions, any idea embodied by you will give home comfort and individuality.

Photo of interroom partitions

As can be seen in the photos of interior partitions presented on various sites on the Internet, everything that has been described earlier is a small part of what can be done with the help of drywall partitions. Such structures can be represented in various architectural styles and directions in design. Below are photos of some original ideas Plasterboard partitions.

Have become an integral part of the planning and redevelopment interior premises, whether it is a house, apartment, office or something else. They are light by weight, they simply mount them, they do not create additional loads for carriers And beams, and you can create partitions of any shape and design. In general, the advantages of this type of structures mass.

You may need to split one large room Two or simply allocate a separate zone in it. And maybe you want to transfer the doorway or extinguish the room from. Probably, in the office space it was necessary to exist part of the staff. In any of these cases, you will not hurt to know how to build a partition from plasterboard with your own hands.

Gypsum Carton Partition - Preparation for Work

First you need to decide on the desired thickness of the future partition. Accordingly, we select profile and GKL. If the wall thickness indoors is 13.5 cm and you need to achieve coincidence with this value, then you need a profile 100x40 mm and a drywall of 12.5 mm. As a result, after very simple calculations, we determine that the thickness of the partition will be 100 + 12.5 + 12.5 + 100 \u003d 125 mm. The difference is 1 cm not critical.

Preparing required tools And materials:

  • laser and bubble level;
  • profile with specified parameters;
  • screwdriver and Perfarator;
  • self-tapping screws, plasterboard and metal, dowel;
  • scissors for metal;
  • a hammer;
  • stationery knife.

The process of manufacture in the room of the partition of plasterboard with their own hands

We begin our step-by-step instructions for making your own handwalk floor partitions.

Since the standard width of the plasterboard sheet is 120x250 mm, then we will be attached exclusively to it vertically. Accordingly, every 60 cm you need to install a rack profile. But for a stronger design, you can start them and every 40 cm. It remains to mount a horizontal jumper.

In the course of the installation of all the necessary horizontal jumpers, it turns out this "skeleton" of our future partition.

In this case, all profiles can be mounted with each other without drill screws, and cut the metal scissors. At the end, be sure to check the frame plane and, if necessary, add the attachment points to the ceiling, floor, walls.

"We interfere with" self-tapping screws in 1 mm plasterboard.

At first we look one side of the partition, and the second is proceeded only after all communications systems are mounted inside it - sockets, wires, switches, etc.

Glk's joints with the help of a stationery knife "extend." So do so that with the seams of the seams, the solution goes well into the joints, and the decoration turned out to be smooth and high quality.

This is so easy and not expensive can be made of the plasterboard partition with their own hands. It remains only to handle the seams and stick protective corners, after which you can start finish finish Our new wall.

Articles on this topic:

Make partitions from drywall do it yourself, with your own hands, even nonprofessional. It is possible to build it in the shortest possible time and with minimal cost. Gypside partitions should not necessarily be only square or rectangular: they can be semi-circular, radius or arched.

Required materials

For work you will need:
1. Guide (PN) and rack (PS) profiles for creating a frame. They should be equal in width: the rack profile should easily enter the grooves of the guide.
2. Construction level.
3. Galnik.
4. Roulette.
5. plumb.
6. Plasterboard. Since the partition is trimmed on both sides, it will be required 2 times more required area.
7. Sound insulation materials: minvat, foam, etc.
8. Fasteners: dowels and screws.
9. Screwdriver.
10. Scissors for metal for cutting aluminum guides.
11. A sharp knife for cutting plasterboard.


Guide and rack profiles

Installation of carcass

1. On the floor with the help of the kitchen and roulette, there is a place where the partition will be mounted. You can transfer this line on the ceiling using a plumb. The partition must be installed exactly at an angle of 90 ° in relation to the walls.


Transfer markup

2. To the floor and ceiling with a dowel-nail fixed guide profile (It is marked with UW letters). For the construction of a thin partition, a wide 50 mm width. When laying inside a septum of soundproofing materials, the UW100 profile should be used, where 100 is the width in millimeters.


Mounting profile to ceiling

Important! In places, adjoining profiles to the wall or ceiling should be laid sealing tape. It will not only guess sounds, but also reduce the risk of cracks. The foamed polyethylene ribbon is attached to the profiles of the adhesive side.


Fastening sealing self-adhesive tape

3. Stretch profile installed in the grooves of the guide in a step of 60 cm. This is done with the help of metal screws. At the same time, the racks should be positioned so that the edges of the sheets of plasterboard were accounted for exactly to the center of the profile. The most first fixed extreme racks.




Fastening rack profile

4. If necessary, inside partitions can be paved wiring. It stacked at the frame assembly level horizontally in a special non-combustible corrugation. The wiring is mounted in special technological holes in the profile.


Laying electrical wiring

Door opening device

1. In the intended place in the width of the opening vertically mounted two rack profiles. The third profile is attached from above. How to equip arched opening or opening any arbitrary curvilinear form, we will tell a little lower.

2. To strengthen the door opening, you can use a timber bar or two profiles interconnected.


To strengthen the doorway, you can connect the rack and guide profiles

Mounting plasterboard

1. The partition is trimmed with drywall on both sides.

2. His sheets are attached to the frame with step 25 cm So that their edges accounted for exactly in the center of the rack profile. At the same time, the self-pressing hat must slightly drown in a sheet so that it could be further hidden under the putty.

3. Do not screw the screws at the corners of the sheet - it will break. For fastening, retreat from the edge of 5 cm.


Mounting plasterboard

4. Plasterboard mounted split (in a checkerboard) So that sheets of sheets accounted for the center of the sheet of the previous row.


Order laying sheets

5. If you need sound insulation between the profile racks, minvat, foam, expanded polystyrene foam or any other similar material are paved. It is mounted after one side is already covered with plasterboard.


Soundproofing layer location

Important! In the bathroom, the partition is not worth the partition from this material. Even moisture-resistant plasterboard over time can wake up and lose the form under the action of moisture.

Cutting drywall

1. On the sheet is stamped with a pencil location. The trail from the ball paste or felt-meter can be visible through the putty, so it is not worth using them.

2. Plasterboard consists of three layers: two layers of cardboard and gypsum core. Originally follows a sharp knife cut through one side of the cardboard and a gypsum core. For this, the sheet is placed on a flat surface, a metal ruler is applied to the cut line, and inclusions are made along it. To cut the core, through the cut line, spend a knife several times.


Cutting of the first layer of cardboard

3. Then you should bend the location of the cut and grasp the gypsum core, slightly tapping along the plus line.


In order to break the core, the leaf slightly bends


Slashing of the second layer of cardboard

5. To remove defects, the location of the cut is processed emery paper or rasp.


Processing edges cut

Important! Sheets that will be shrinking with each other at an angle must have an ID 45 °. You can make it using an ordinary knife.

Shpaklevka

1. The joints of the sheets and deepening of the self-tapping screws with gypsum, polymer or cement putty. If, with a putty, the trowel clings to the self-tapping screw, it should be deepen into a slightly deeper.


Plucking of drywall

2. To strengthen in places of sheets of sheets is laid reinforcing self-adhesive grid. Before it laying, the seam should be filled with putty, and only then glue the grid. Outdoor angles are separated profile Corners or Corners with Reinforcing Mesh.

3. If the wall from the drywall will be covered with wallpaper or shifted with tiles, it is not necessary to use the reinforcing grid. It is required only when preparing walls under the plaster or color.


Gasket on the seams of the reinforcing grid

Flexible plasterboard

With the arrangement of semicircular, radius or arched partitions, drywall required bend. You can do this in two ways: dry and wet.

1. Ply dry bending On the one hand, vertical cuts are made. You can make them quickly with the help of a grinder. Since there is a lot of gypsum dust, work is better to spend on the street.

2. Bending is performed across the fibers, that is, sheets bend by lenght.


Dry bending

Council. If the bend radius is not too big, cuts can not be done, but gently bend the sheet in the process of its mounting to the frame.

3. Wet bending. So that the moisture penetrates the leaf deep, before wetting it should be done needle roller.


Rolling roller

5. A wet sheet of drywall is stacked for a drying on the prepared pattern of the desired form and is securely fixed.


Wet bending

Important! For flexible, the arched plasterboard with a smaller thickness should be purchased.

Bending profile

For installation of curvilinear structures, you can purchase arch profile Or make it with your own hands. For this, both sides are made duties every 5-15 cm[b]. The frequency of their location depends on the corner of the bend: what it is more, the more likely to apply notches. In order for the transition to be smooth, their frequency should be the same.

Arch profile


Making an arched profile can be used by propyl


Mounting arched profile

Video: Handstocks from drywall do it yourself

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