Balcony floor insulation: preparation, recommendations, options for insulation materials. How do I insulate the balcony floor
Thanks to modern finishing materials, an ordinary cold loggia from a banal smoking room, a storage room and a place for drying clothes can be turned into a warm and cozy continuation of the living space - a study, a workshop, an extension to the kitchen or a comfortable recreation area. An important stage in this transformation is floor insulation on the balcony.
Features and Benefits
Considering a warm balcony an unnecessary luxury means losing not only additional square meters of your home, but also its thermal insulation, and the possibility of more rational improvement. After all, usually the base of the loggia consists of concrete slabs, which freeze strongly in winter and quickly collect condensation in summer. Therefore, in order to achieve the maximum effect when changing the functionality of the balcony space, it is necessary to combine the construction of a warm floor there with wall insulation and high-quality glazing.
The advantages of such an arrangement are quite obvious:
- significant increase in useful square meters, which is valuable for small-sized housing; - a change in the microclimate in the adjacent room for the better;
- excellent noise insulation device;
- significant reduction in heat loss of the entire area of the apartment.
main feature the insulation of the balcony is that it is unlikely that it is possible to connect the central heating of the apartment to it, but it is possible to arrange its heating with the help of electric radiators and a convenient "warm floor" system. The thermal insulation material optimal for such work should be selected especially carefully.
Insulation types
Balcony - the structure is portable, usually located on one concrete slab, which connects it to the house. It means that it is impossible to overload it with heavy finishing materials. Therefore, for thermal insulation, you should select those insulation options that are lightweight, easy to cut and simply assembled.
Styrofoam - the cheapest option for insulating the floor on the balcony. However, all of its indisputable advantages in the form of a low price, excellent thermal insulation properties, lightness, hygroscopicity, bactericidal, frost resistance, long-term operation and easy installation more than outweigh the disadvantages: complete vapor permeability, high flammability and toxicity. Therefore, it is better to lay the foam only under the screed - so its vapor permeability will not be so important, and it will no longer be able to catch fire. Typically, the foam is produced in white sheets with a thickness of 2 to 10 centimeters. The thickest sheets are most often used to insulate the floor on the balcony.
Extruded polystyrene - inexpensive material for floor insulation on the balcony with similar to foam chemical composition and positive properties, but with fewer negative characteristics. Extruded polystyrene is capable of transmitting light, it is quite resistant to negative impact the environment and temperature extremes, is not prone to decay, retains compressive strength and does not need the use of additional heaters for high-quality thermal insulation. Available in slabs 60x120 and 60x240 centimeters in size. The main disadvantage of polystyrene is its flammability.
Penoplex (expanded polystyrene) - belongs to the new generation of heat insulators. It, like polystyrene, is lightweight, low vapor permeability, easy to install, very effective as a heater and is also available in the form of plates with a thickness of 2 to 10 centimeters. At the same time, the thinnest slab is sufficient to insulate the balcony floor with penoplex - after all, it compares favorably with foam plastic with a denser, moisture and heat-resistant structure, excellent sound insulation, strong and durable in operation. The only significant drawback of penoplex is its significant cost. Although some manufacturers note that styrene that is part of the styrene foam is poisonous and volatile, and therefore it is advised to close it with plaster or drywall very tightly, without leaving gaps.
Minvata is considered the most optimal material for insulating a balcony floor. It is made of porphyrite, slag, gabbro, diabase and other minerals and is produced in the form of rolls or mats with a thickness of 5 to 10 centimeters.
Mineral wool is used most often not only because of its low cost, but also due to the abundance of its positive properties:
- high refractoriness (does not burn even at + 1000 ° С);
- minimum thermal conductivity;
- excellent sound insulation;
- breathability;
- resistance to negative bio-effects;
- environmental friendliness.
Minor disadvantages of mineral wool include fear of moisture (eliminated when installing the film), intolerance to tamping, and therefore to laying under a screed (with the exception of high-density basalt mineral slabs) and increased content formaldehyde in low-quality samples. It is better to insulate the wooden flooring on the balcony floor with a "stone" (basalt) mineral wool laid under it.
System " warm floor"- the most comfortable solution for insulating a balcony. Its main advantages are the establishment and uniform distribution of the desired temperature throughout the room (allows you to save the balcony from settling dust and regulate the air humidity there), resistance to corrosion (thin aluminum tubes of the structure are covered with plastic outside and inside ), safety, compactness and aesthetics (all heating devices are hidden in the screed), as well as ease of installation, ease of use and further maintenance.
At the same time, equipping a balcony with a warm floor can bring some inconveniences:
- it slowly heats up and cools down due to the need to warm up the concrete screed;
- during major repairs, it is easy to damage and difficult to restore;
- not all finishing materials are combined with a warm floor;
- the furniture installed on it should not restrict free air circulation.
Expanded clay - although inexpensive, but far from best material for floor insulation on the balcony. Firstly, it is not able to retain heat as well as mineral wool or foam. And secondly, the creation of a reliable heat-insulating layer will require a lot of expanded clay, which will significantly increase the weight of the balcony, which is undesirable. But expanded clay is completely environmentally friendly. And it is sometimes mixed with a concrete solution of a leveling screed or used in the "dry" technology of its device.
Which material is better
Usually, we need thermal insulation of the balcony to save us from the winter cold and summer heat, as well as to protect its facade and load-bearing structures from temperature extremes and precipitation. Conventionally, all heaters can be divided into traditional (expanded clay, polystyrene, mineral wool) and innovative (polystyrene, polystyrene, foam, underfloor heating, etc.), or according to the composition of the raw materials used for their manufacture (organic, inorganic and mixed).
By the way, all insulation materials with similar characteristics cost about the same, so you should not consider the price as a determining factor for their choice. But before you buy insulation for the floor on the balcony, decide what its topcoat will be and who will be engaged in the installation - you yourself or the master. And also remember that insulation should not greatly increase the weight of the balcony, otherwise it may collapse.
If your balcony is reliably protected from moisture from the street, and the base floor is sufficiently flat and dry, then it is cheaper to refine and insulate it with wood at the same time. Planks can be laid directly on a concrete base or fixed on specially installed joists. In this version of insulation, it is preferable to use a coniferous tree (its natural resinousness will increase moisture resistance) and it is necessary to arrange a slope in the flooring to drain accidentally moisture. If you need to insulate the wooden flooring itself, then with good waterproofing, ordinary mineral wool will do, and with high-quality sealing of joints - foam plastic.
As a heater under a tile or tile, it is better to choose one that is not afraid of laying under a screed (polystyrene, polystyrene, penoplex, basalt mineral wool or "warm floor"). However, the construction of a concrete screed together with the laying of tiles on the floor of the balcony will ultimately significantly increase its weight, and this, as you know, is unsafe. For thermal insulation of the floor under linoleum, a sufficiently strong, springy and having good water-repellent properties insulation is needed - such as penoplex. It is possible to insulate the floor under the laminate on the balcony with expanded clay, and foam, and mineral wool, and plywood, and even foil - depending on whether it will be laid on a concrete or wooden base. Well, the most environmentally friendly, the most durable and at the same time the most expensive insulation option is cork panels.
As for the installation of insulation, the easiest to install are heat-insulating plates made of polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polystyrene and mineral wool. It will be more difficult to equip active floor heating, which is recommended to be insulated with polypropylene, expanded polystyrene, cork panels and metallized lavsan film.
How to insulate a balcony: step by step instructions
To make the floor on the balcony warm, but not to glaze it and not to insulate the walls with the ceiling, is like throwing money down the drain. Especially if it has a sunroof or panoramic windows. Only competent thermal insulation of all balcony surfaces without exception and the connection with their further high-quality finishing will allow you to stably keep the room temperature level there even in winter and even without heating. And by inserting the second glass into the window frame, you can make the balcony suitable for living, and this will increase its chances of joining the room according to the law, which is especially valuable in a small-sized "Khrushchev" building. By the way, the balcony will look especially advantageous if the space of it and the adjoining room is combined with the help of a stained-glass window or a partition - so the play of light, color and shadows can decorate and diversify both of these rooms
It is necessary to install insulation on the balcony floor only after installing high-quality glazing, sealing all cracks, removing the previous floor covering and thoroughly cleaning the room from debris and dust. If it is necessary to wash the floor, then work on its thermal insulation is possible only after the concrete of the balcony base is completely dry.
In addition to insulation, you may need a hammer, a construction knife, a jigsaw (preferably electric), a construction gun, dowels, a drill, self-tapping screws, a puncher and, of course, a tape measure with a pencil for marking.
Having prepared all the necessary materials and tools, you can start laying insulation for the floor on the balcony without heating:
- fill all irregularities in the base with epoxy resin or sand-cement mortar;
- the joints of the floor and walls are filled with polyurethane foam or a solution of cement with sand;
- we primer the area prepared for insulation and let the primer dry;
- we waterproof the balcony base (prevents moisture drops from condensation);
- we install wooden logs (to the height of the door threshold - for easy connection to a room adjacent to the balcony);
- we lay out the required number of layers of the selected insulation between the lag;
- we fix a vapor-permeable diffuse waterproofing membrane;
- we lay plywood or boardwalk for installing the topcoat;
- we mount boards, linoleum, tiles, laminate or other selected material as a topcoat and fix the skirting boards.
For an active insulation device (such as a warm floor), the procedure after laying the insulation will be different.
All insulation plates must be tightly joined with each other (to cover the entire floor), and with waterproofing covering them. We put reinforcing elements on top (strengthen the outer part of the balcony), fill in the screed along the exposed beacons, carefully level it and dry it for at least 6 hours (you can safely walk on it in a day). Then we fasten the mounting tape with the dowel-nails (we use the previously marked and drilled holes) and lay the heating cable of the "warm floor" on it with a snake.
By the way, it is more convenient to start laying the cable from the final section, putting a plug there, and end it by connecting it to the power supply network using a thermostat. After securely fixing the heating cable to the mounting tape, install the beacons again, fill in one more level of the subfloor screed and let it dry completely.
Cover " warm floor"The balcony can be finished with laminate, tiles or other material only after the screed is completely dry - this will avoid deformation and do without mold. Usually the process of drying a cement screed takes about 7 days - provided that the beacons have been set correctly. at this time it is warm outside, you can open the windows - this way the floor will dry out faster and gain the necessary strength, but in winter the screed should be dried only with the shutters closed.
We warm inside
Without meticulous hermetic sealing of all the cracks at the joints of literally all surfaces of the balcony, its further internal thermal insulation is meaningless. But its competent device allows you to avoid the occurrence " cold bridges"and helps to shift the freezing points of the balcony from inside to the outside.
No less important is the high-quality waterproofing of concrete elements of the walls, ceiling and floor of the balcony, with the installation of the ebb and the processing of the window frame hydrophobic antiseptics- especially if you do not want to find fungus or mold in some corner of it and at the same time safely maintain a comfortable temperature and ventilation on the balcony. Therefore, you should not ignore the vapor barrier of the insulation - the vapor barrier placed in front of it will not allow unwanted moisture accumulation and will provide the required degree of air circulation. In addition, good internal thermal insulation helps to get rid of extraneous street noise.
When choosing insulation for the inner space of the balcony, you need to pay attention to the coefficient of its thermal conductivity. Have modern materials for thermal insulation, its average is 0.03-0.04 W / mS, and the higher this value, the lower the thermal insulation qualities will be. This means that for the insulation of the balcony, it is worth choosing materials with a minimum value of thermal conductivity, but high cost, or simply increasing the thickness of the insulation, which will inevitably lead to the loss of the usable area of the balcony.
We insulate outside
It is believed that the external insulation of the balcony not only allows you to save its usable area due to the use of thin insulation on the inside, but also helps to save almost 30% of the cost of heating the apartment. However, residents of high-rise buildings will be able to use such external insulation only with the help of industrial climbers. But using various materials in the decoration of the balcony, the owners will be able to significantly change it. appearance and even the configuration.
After insulating the balcony structures, there are ample opportunities for changing its functionality and interesting solutions in his interior design. By connecting an insulated balcony to the living area of the apartment, you can arrange a cozy office, a hookah room, a corner for children's activities, a dining area or even a small spa. When the balcony is warm, dry and comfortable, the development of its space depends only on the imagination and capabilities of its owners.
Our video will tell you about how to cut, lay and fix the insulation made of polythene foam. We wish you a pleasant renovation!
The presence of a loggia provides you not only with additional space in your apartment, but also with new tasks for warming the room. However, glazing and wall insulation may not be enough. In order for the balcony to be used as part of the living room, it is very important to correctly insulate the floor, this will save 25% more heat. You will be able to place on the balcony houseplants, equip a small recreation area there or come up with another way to use additional meters.
In the article we will tell you about the most effective and affordable ways to insulate the floor on the loggia, which you can implement with your own hands. You will receive answers to the following questions:
- How to prepare the floor on the loggia for work?
- What are the best insulation materials to use?
- How to calculate the required amount of materials?
- How to lay the material for high-quality protection from the cold?
Before proceeding with the thermal insulation of the balcony floor, it is necessary to make sure that the slab is in a satisfactory condition. To do this, you need to inspect the balcony and check with the management company if it is planned overhaul, and also find out what kind of load the plate can withstand.
After that, you can start measuring. It is necessary to write down the exact dimensions of the width and length of the balcony in order to purchase a sufficient amount of materials.
In addition, it is necessary to estimate the depth of the balcony slab in relation to the floor level in the room. Based on this information, one or another material for insulation is chosen, based on the fact that the floor level on the balcony should not be higher than the floor level in the room.
Insulation of the floor on the loggia: materials
To exclude the penetration of cold air through the balcony floor, various materials can be used:
- mineral wool;
- Styrofoam;
- expanded clay;
- penoplex.
Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages, let's get to know them better.
Mineral wool
Mineral wool - today it is one of the best thermal insulation materials, which has excellent performance characteristics. For its production is used a natural stone- gabbro and diabase, the internal structure is formed by multidirectional fibers, which determines its excellent heat-insulating properties.
Floor insulation on the balcony mineral wool
The material is characterized by a number of remarkable properties:
- incombustibility,
- additional coating layer - foil or fiberglass;
- durability;
- ease of installation of stone wool slabs.
The main drawback of the material is poor moisture resistance.
Styrofoam
Available material, which is formed by many small balls of a cellular structure filled with air.
Key material advantages:
- affordable price,
- ease,
- good level of thermal insulation.
The negative properties of the material are its low resistance to mechanical stress, as well as a low level of hygroscopicity.
Penoplex
Thermal insulation material of a new generation. An analogue of foam with the best strength indicators: the structure is formed by small particles of equal size.
Insulation of the floor on the loggia using penoplex Important pluses of Penoplex:
- durability,
- mechanical strength,
- frost resistance,
- high level of thermal insulation,
- chemical inertness,
- light weight,
- ease of installation.
The disadvantages of the material are:
- flammability (class G-1),
- relatively high price,
- destroyed by sunlight.
To choose a high-quality penoplex, it is enough to check the uniformity of its structure on the cut.
Expanded clay
The material is made from clay by firing at high temperatures and is a loose heat insulator made of oval-shaped stones, which have a porous structure. Expanded clay is quite fragile and requires careful handling. However, its application becomes effective when using a layer of 15 cm, which leads to a significant rise in the floor.
Among the advantages of the material are:
- easy installation,
- light weight,
- affordable price,
- significant chemical resistance,
- fire resistance.
Disadvantages:
- when working, there is a large number of dirt and dust,
- the material is fragile,
- absorbs moisture
- only the high layer provides the required thermal insulation.
Electric underfloor heating on the balcony
Also, a warm floor can be made using an electric heating system. In this case, heat generators can be:
- electrical cable,
- thermomats,
- infrared heating film.
An electrical cable can have significant power, but requires preliminary leveling of the floor and laying a layer of thermal insulation, as well as performing laborious installation works... After fixing the cable, the screed is poured and reinforced without fail, due to which the load on the balcony slab may increase. Therefore, this method of insulation may be unsafe in some cases.
Heating mats are less powerful, but they do not require much effort during installation. They can be laid directly under tiles, porcelain stoneware or natural stone and fixed tile adhesive... Thus, it is possible to perform thermal insulation of the floor, practically without changing its level. The main disadvantage of this option is that heating mats are produced to heat a certain area and the available widths may not exactly match the dimensions of the loggia.
An infrared floor is great for laying under laminate, parquet or linoleum, as it has a flat surface and provides even heating. It is best to mount it on the already installed thermal insulation - a structure made of foam and logs, covered with plywood and a heat reflector. Therefore, we can say that the infrared floor rather acts as a heater.
To calculate the required number of heating elements, keep in mind that the installation of the electrical system or infrared underfloor heating is carried out only on the balcony area free from heavy furniture.
Purchase of materials and tools
To install a thermal insulating structure on a balcony, you will need the following tools:
- roulette,
- level,
- hacksaw or jigsaw,
- pencil or marker
- screwdriver or screwdriver,
- drill,
- puncher.
In most cases convenient solution when insulating the floor, it becomes the installation of heat-insulating materials in the crate. To create it, you need to purchase in advance bars with a section of 50x50 cm or larger, if you need to raise the floor to a higher level. When calculating the number of bars, you need to rely on the overall parameters of the balcony and the dimensions of the heat-insulating material, on which the method of laying the lathing depends. You will need an antiseptic liquid to treat the bars.
Lathing for the floor Required amount insulation depends on the area and the specifics of the material, as well as the difference in floor levels. Therefore, you first need to decide in what way the insulation will be performed.
Do not forget to purchase penofol or a thick film for the waterproofing layer, while keeping in mind that some materials require double-sided moisture protection. You also need to purchase plywood or boards to set the sub-floor.
Self-tapping screws (6 × 65) or dowels, small nails are used as fasteners - it is better to buy them with a margin. You will also need a balloon polyurethane foam for filling gaps and joints between materials.
If you decide to use to create a warm floor on the balcony electrical system, then the following materials and equipment will be useful to you:
- electric underfloor heating system (cable and fasteners or cable mats or infrared film);
- connection cable;
- RCD - residual current device;
- temperature reducer.
You may also need the concrete screed and materials listed above.
Laying technology
- The first step is to prepare the floor for laying the material. First you need to clean the base from dirt and dust with a broom and a vacuum cleaner.
- The very first is waterproofing or penofol, which prevents moisture penetration. In this case, the edges of the film are bent up so that their level is above the lag level. Then it is necessary to apply markings for an even location of the lag.
- Next, logs are installed - bars with a section of 50x50 mm, which must be pre-treated with an antiseptic to exclude rotting. The bars are placed at a short distance from the walls (at least 5 cm), taking into account the possible deformation of the wood. The distance is chosen depending on the dimensions of the material slabs.
- Then the selected material is placed between the lags, the remaining gaps are filled with polyurethane foam. Mineral wool and expanded clay are also covered with a film on top to provide vapor barrier. Laying the material in the lathing allows you to maintain its thermal insulation properties for a long time and minimizes the risk of deformations that may occur due to mechanical force.
- The structure is covered with plywood or the floor is made of planks. Next, the finishing coat is laid - laminate, linoleum, etc.
Insulation of the floor on the loggia - laying technology Following our advice, you can do high-quality insulation of the floor on the balcony with your own hands. The main thing is, before starting work, draw up an approximate insulation plan and take into account the specifics of the selected material. Also, don't forget to insulate walls, windows and ceilings. Then your balcony will become a full-fledged part of the apartment, where it will be pleasant to be in any weather.
Probably not the most reasonable option - having a balcony in your apartment, turn it only into an open area for drying clothes, into a smoking room, or even into a kind of "barn" where all unnecessary trash is collected and layered for years, with which why it's hard to part. In the conditions of cramped apartments in urban high-rise buildings, this is an unaffordable luxury. It is worth making certain efforts and efforts, spending a certain amount - and the balcony can become a very neat and completely functional room. Moreover, with a certain approach to its arrangement, it will equally fully serve at any time of the year.
It would probably be superfluous to say that a prerequisite the transformation of the balcony into an additional usable area will be not only, and not so much its decoration - it is completely pointless to deal with this issue if high-quality insulation has not been carried out. An integrated approach is important here - from installing glazing capable of resisting the penetration of cold, to thermal insulation of all surfaces - the ceiling, floor and walls. Construction crews willingly undertake to carry out such work - the experience of such alterations of the balcony has already been accumulated great, there are no problems with the necessary materials either. But is it worth paying extra, if certain operations are quite possible to perform and on their own? Believe me, there is nothing particularly complicated here, and if you follow the manufacturability of the recommendations, then everything should work out. A separate publication will be devoted to the thermal insulation of walls and ceilings, and this article will tell you how you can carry out the insulation of the floor on the balcony with your own hands.
What is used to insulate balcony floors?
Before proceeding to the practical implementation of the planned insulation of the floor on the balcony, you should immediately decide on the type of thermal insulation - the technology of the work and the list of necessary additional materials and components will largely depend on this.
So, the following materials can be used to insulate the floor on a balcony or loggia:
Heaters based on polyethylene foam
Roll materials made on the basis of polyethylene foam have a small thickness, within a few millimeters, and they are rarely used independently in a balcony - usually they are included in a complex of insulation layers together with other thermal insulation materials. However, for southern latitudes, perhaps, such insulation is sometimes enough.
It is best to purchase foil-clad material - like the well-known penofol. When laid correctly (with the foil side up), the surface provides additional heat reflection towards the room, that is, thereby considerable energy savings will be achieved. In addition, the foil layer itself is an excellent hydro and vapor barrier.
Penofol is produced in a range of thicknesses from 2 to 10 mm. There are three main types of material:
- Penofol "A" - the foil coating is applied on one side.
- Penofol "B" is a double-sided reflective coating.
- Penofol "C" - on the one hand, a foil coating, and on the other - a layer of glue, covered with a protective backing. Such material, although more expensive than type "A", is much more convenient to work with.
Penofol canvases can, depending on the thickness of the material and on the specific conditions, be laid end-to-end or overlapped. The joints, for complete sealing and elimination of heat losses, are glued with foil tape - this is how a single reflective insulated surface is created.
The main characteristics of penofol are shown in the table:
| Parameter name | Type "A" | Type "B" | Type "C" |
|---|---|---|---|
| from - 60 to +100 | |||
| Thermal energy reflection coefficient,% | 95 - 97 | ||
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, in a dry state at an average operating temperature of 20 ° С, no more (W / m × ° С) | 0,037 - 0,049 | 0,038 - 0,051 | 0,038 - 0,051 |
| Water absorption by volume,%, no more | 0.7 | 0.6 | 0.35 |
| Water vapor permeability, mg / (m × h × Pa), no more | 0.001 | ||
| Compressive strength, MPa | 0.035 | ||
If not only insulation is planned, but also the organization of heating the floor surface, then for some systems of "warm floors" a reflective thermal insulating substrate is required element general design.
Penofol prices
Expanded polystyrene
Expanded polystyrene plates are among the leaders in popularity among all insulation materials. This is due to its high thermal insulation characteristics along with a very low weight and ease of use. In addition, ordinary foam is widely available, both from the point of view of deficiency-freeness - it is produced everywhere, and from the standpoint of low cost.
There are a number of complaints about the material, in terms of not very high strength, and, most importantly, a certain insecurity. So, low-quality foam plastic can emit fumes that are harmful to human health, and it can in no way be classified as non-combustible materials.
In addition, this insulation has practically zero vapor permeability. But, however, for floors on the balcony, this factor will not be decisive.
If you plan to use expanded polystyrene as the main insulation of the balcony, then it is still better not to skimp and purchase its extruded version - EPS. This material is literally in all respects (if you do not take into account the cost), surpasses ordinary polystyrene, including ensuring the safety of its use in apartments.
Comparative characteristics of foam and extruded polystyrene foam are shown in the table:
| Parameter name | Polyfoam (PSB) | Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) |
|---|---|---|
 |  |
|
| Thermal conductivity (W / m × ° С) | 0.036 ÷ 0.050 | 0.028 ÷ 0.034 |
| Water vapor permeability (mg / m × h × Pa) | - | 0.018 |
| Water absorption in 24 hours, in% of the total volume | 0.4 | 0.2 |
| Ultimate bending strength MPa (kg / cm²) | 0.07 ÷ 0.20 | 0.4 ÷ 1 |
| Compressive strength at 10% linear deformation, not less than MPa (kgf / cm²) | 0.05 ÷ 0.2 | 0.25 ÷ 0.5 |
| Density (kg / m³) | 15 ÷ 35 | 28 ÷ 45 |
| Operating temperature range, ° С | -50 to +75 | -50 to +90 |
Insulation with expanded polystyrene may well be performed in conjunction with other thermal insulation materials.
Styrofoam prices
expanded polystyrene
Want to know more about Styrofoam?
This material is used to insulate almost all building elements without exception - it is only important to choose the right brand. The features of expanded polystyrene are described in detail in an article completely devoted to its extrusion variety -.
Mineral wool
If you look at it, then high-quality mineral wool will most likely be recognized as the best option for insulating a balcony. This thermal insulator has a lot of advantages, since the mineral wool has an extremely low thermal conductivity, low density and mass, but it “keeps its shape” well enough and has a certain elasticity that allows it to fill insulated spaces with practically no gaps. It is very convenient to work with cotton wool, but only on condition that the material is of high quality, and certain precautions are taken by the master.
The fact that cotton wool should be of high quality was mentioned at all for a reason. This material also has its drawbacks, which are predetermined by its fibrous structure. First, thin fibers can break with sharp edges that can damage the skin or cause persistent irritation of the mucous membranes. And secondly, synthetic binders containing formaldehyde are used to form blocks of mineral fibers. Poor quality material can "sin" with a high content of this component, which is extremely dangerous for human health.
There are three types of mineral wool, which differ in the raw materials for melting and fiber formation.
- Cotton wool based on blast-furnace slags should not be taken into account at all, since we are talking about insulation in residential premises.
- Glass wool in environmental terms is much cleaner, but differs in fiber fragility, that is, it is necessary to work with it with special measures precautions, and the insulation "cake" should exclude the penetration of insulation microparticles into the air of the room. Glass wool is often chosen for reasons of economy - it is usually much cheaper than basalt.
- The most "prosperous" in all respects is the so-called stone wool, which is obtained from melts of basalt rocks.
Comparative characteristics of mineral wool are shown in the table below:
| Parameter name | Slag | Glass wool | Stone wool |
|---|---|---|---|
 |  |  |
|
| Limiting application temperature, ° С | up to 250 | from -60 to +450 | up to 1000 |
| Average fiber diameter, μm | from 4 to 12 | from 5 to 15 | from 4 to 12 |
| Material hygroscopicity in 24 hours (no more),% | 1,9 | 1,7 | 0,095 |
| Taunt | Yes | Yes | not |
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / (m × ° С) | 0,46-0,48 | 0,038 -0,046 | 0,035-0,042 |
| Sound absorption coefficient | from 0.75 to 0.82 | from 0.8 to 92 | from 0.75 to 95 |
| The presence of a binder,% | from 3 to 10 | from 2.5 to 8 | from 2.5 to 5 |
| Flammability of the material | NG - non-flammable | NG - non-flammable | NG - non-flammable |
| Heat capacity, J / kg × ° С | 1000 | 1050 | 1050 |
| Vibration resistance | not | not | moderate |
| Elasticity,% | unspecified | unspecified | 75 |
| Sintering temperature, ° С | 250-300 | 450-500 | 600 |
| Fiber length, mm | 16 | 15-50 | 16 |
| Chemical stability (weight loss),% in water | 7,8 | 6,2 | 4,5 |
| Chemical stability (weight loss),% in an alkaline environment | 7 | 6 | 6,4 |
| Chemical stability (weight loss),% in an acidic environment | 68,7 | 38,9 | 24 |
Features of mineral wool
To properly carry out thermal insulation with mineral wool, you should familiarize yourself with its characteristics in more detail. You will find the necessary information in the article of our portal dedicated to. Information about one of the popular domestic brands of mineral wool, for sure, will also be useful -
Expanded clay
Not as widely as mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, but it is still used to insulate the balcony floor and expanded clay. Its resistance to heat transfer is inferior to the indicators of the materials listed above, for example, such as mounted, but expanded clay has other indisputable advantages - environmental friendliness (well-purified natural raw materials are used for production) and absolute incombustibility. The material is relatively light, although, of course, its density, even just bulk, is still higher than that of polymer or fiber insulation. This may somewhat limit its use on balconies, where it is more reasonable to load the slab to a minimum.
Expanded clay is produced in various fractions. The largest granules can reach up to 40 ÷ 50 mm in length, the smallest - 0.1 ÷ 5 mm. The insulation technology is also based on the size of the granules. So, expanded clay can be used for cooking concrete mortar a leveling screed with a simultaneous insulation function, for dry backfilling between floor joists, as shown in the picture above.
The main properties of expanded clay of different fractions are shown in the table:
| Description of characteristics | Fraction size | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| 10-20 mm | 5-10 mm | 0-5 mm | |
 |  |  |
|
| Bulk density, kg / m³ | 280-370 | 300-400 | 500-700 |
| Strength at pressure, N / mm² (MPa) | 1,0-1,8 | 1,2-2,0 | 3,0-4,0 |
| Frost resistance 20 cycles, weight loss of gravel in% | 0,4-0,2 | 0,2-1,2 | Not regulated |
| Thermal conductivity W / m × ° С | 0,0912 | 0,0912 | 0,1099 |
| Water absorption,% of the volume | 10 - 15 | 15 - 20 | up to 25 |
One of the options for warming the floor with expanded clay is the "dry screed" technology
Recently, the technology of "dry screed" is gaining popularity - leveling and warming the floor with fine expanded clay backfill, followed by laying gypsum fiber boards on top of it. Sometimes this approach is also used on balconies, however, in the conditions of the traditional tightness of this room, such insulation will be quite difficult to perform with high quality, and this does not seem to be the optimal solution.
Expanded clay prices
expanded clay
Preparation for floor insulation on the balcony
The fundamentally "classical" scheme of floor insulation on the balcony can be depicted as follows:
Schematic diagram of "classic" balcony insulation
1 - reinforced concrete base.
2 - waterproofing, preventing the capillary spread of moisture into the insulation layer.
3 - lags. As a rule, the floor on the balcony is raised to the level of the threshold of the door leading to the room, so the height of the lag may be different. Often their two-tier arrangement is used, when the upper logs are perpendicular to the lower, supporting ones.
4 - a layer of insulation material laid out between the lag.
5 - waterproofing vapor-permeable diffuse membrane that does not prevent the free exit of moisture from the insulation. It can be used when mineral wool is used as a thermal insulation layer, and its use does not make much sense with expanded polystyrene. Often this layer above the insulation is made of rolled foam, thereby creating additional insulation and reflective thermal energy"screen".
6 - plank flooring or sheet material (plywood, OSB) for laying the topcoat.
Often, if it is supposed to make a comfortable room out of the balcony, "active insulation" is also used - an electric floor heating system. Under these conditions, it is probably most convenient to use film infrared heaters... This is not shown in the diagram, but an example of such an approach will be given below.
In order for the insulation to be of high quality, and the floor to be reliable, it is necessary to do some preparatory work.
Floor revision and minor repairs
The article has already mentioned that thermal insulation of the floor is carried out in the overwhelming majority of cases simultaneously (in parallel) with the insulation of all surfaces of the balcony, otherwise the work simply loses its meaning. That is, it is possible to "take out of the brackets" the strengthening of the entire structure, the erection of external walls (if there were none), the installation of frames, etc. In short, let's focus only on the floor.
It is very good if the balcony was "well-groomed", that is, its floor is in good condition - the surface is flat and intact, without defects. Often the floor is tiled, and if the tile is soundly, does not "play", then it is quite possible to leave it in place without resorting to dismantling.
However, there are also less "rainbow" pictures, when the concrete base has cracks, potholes, chips, and there are cracks between it and the walls. All this must be eliminated before proceeding to the next stages of work.
It would seem - why, because all the same, the surface will be covered with insulation? Nevertheless, this is important - it is undesirable to leave the sinuses in which moisture can accumulate, as they can become foci of erosion or the appearance of microflora colonies - mold or mildew.
- If there are small protrusions on the surface, they can be gently chipped off to the general level.
- Cracks must be cut to a depth of 10 mm and widened for deeper and denser filling with repair compound. This can be done manually, or by using a sander with a circle over the stone.
- The places to be repaired are thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust. Small solid fragments should not remain in the cracks - they are cleaned with a stiff brush and then finally removed with a vacuum cleaner.
- After that, it is necessary to prime the emergency areas with a deep penetration compound.
- After the primer has dried, all cracks and potholes are tightly filled with a repair compound - special putties for concrete or even just cement-sand mortar... Do the same with slots around the perimeter of the slab. Wide gaps can be filled with sealant, and in some cases it is even more profitable to resort to using polyurethane foam.
- After the repair "patches" have dried, they are cleaned to the general floor level.
Waterproofing the floor surface
If, again, the base of the floor is of good quality, and the neighboring insulated balcony is located below, then the issue of waterproofing the surface will not be acute - it will be enough just to carry out priming. It is a different matter when the bottom of the concrete roof of the balcony is open to “all winds”. In no way can we exclude the possibility of capillary penetration of moisture through the reinforced concrete structure. Well, the harmfulness of excessive moisture has already been mentioned above, and in addition, some heaters (mineral wool, for example) may lose their thermal insulation qualities from saturation with water.
In a word, in order to protect your insulation "pie" from waterlogging, you need to carry out waterproofing. Just covering the surface with plastic wrap is not an option. Yes, the insulation will remain dry, but moisture will begin to accumulate in the thin gap between the film and the concrete slab, and sooner or later will make itself felt. A better approach is needed.
This can be done in several ways:
- Cover the surface with a layer of penetrating waterproofing compound, type "Penetron" or "Hydrotex". These compounds, getting into the pores and microcracks of concrete, completely "lock" them, blocking the spread of capillary moisture.
Penetrating waterproofing "Hydrotex"
- Apply coating waterproofing... The range of such compounds on a bitumen or polymer basis is quite wide, there is plenty to choose from. They are used in accordance with the instructions attached to them, cold or heated.
- Cover the entire surface with roll-on waterproofing, also on a bitumen or polymer basis. In this case, it is necessary to achieve a snug fit of the material to the base, without leaving "pockets".
Now, after the waterproofing is completed, you can proceed to work on the insulation of the floor itself.
Prices for "Hydrotex"
Hydrotex
Insulation of the floor on the balcony - options
The insulation layer will certainly take up a certain height and the finishing floor will be raised above the concrete base. It has already been said that this rise is usually calculated in such a way that the floor on the balcony is flush or slightly below the threshold of the door from the room. At the same time, they also solve the issue of leveling the floor horizontally - balcony slabs often "sin" with a difference in height - with a decrease from the wall to the edge.
The installation of the lag can be done in different ways. The easiest way, but probably far from the most convenient and accurate, is with inserting inserts or wedges under the bars in order to achieve the desired uniform level.
In the modern assortment of hardware stores, you can find many convenient devices - brackets or adjustable threaded racks, which allow you to accurately and reliably install the logs. One of the simple options will be discussed below - using U-shaped racks.
Insulated floor on U-shaped racks-brackets
This is one of the easiest ways to position the floor perfectly horizontally, so that there is enough space under its surface for laying the insulation material.
The stand itself is a U-shaped metal part, which is attached to the floor surface with a transverse shelf, and on the two side ones there are holes for self-tapping screws that will hold the log beams in a given position.
Usually on sale there are similar drains with a height of 167 mm, and designed to use a bar with a cross section of 40 (width) by 70 (height) mm. However, it is possible that other sizes may also be found. In addition, you can find examples of this type of work, both according to the same principle, but instead of similar racks, the craftsmen used steel corners, installing them in pairs, on both sides of the timber. The only difference is that there will be more trouble with fixing the fasteners to the base of the floor.
In the example under consideration, basalt wool of the "Light" type is used for the insulation layer - a low density, about 35 kg / m³, with a thickness of 100 mm. The task of the master was to provide reliable thermal insulation in two layers, with a general rise in the height of the floor surface, taking into account the thickness of the plywood (15 mm) by 210 mm, in order to reach the level of the concrete step of the threshold.
You may be interested in the information on how to do it yourself
The sequence of work and features of the operations performed are shown in the following illustrated table:
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | So, for installation and careful leveling of the floor surface, in addition to the beams, it is required to prepare rack brackets. It is not difficult to calculate their number - the installation step on the longitudinal log is 500 mm, plus one rack for each transverse jumper. Since we are talking about a balcony, that is, a narrow room, we only need three logs - two along the walls, and one in the center between them. |
 | Each jumper will rest on one of its own U-shaped rack, and it is convenient to fix them to the logs using ordinary metal corners. The step of installing the jumpers can be of the order of 600 mm. But at the same time, the lines of joints of plywood sheets should be taken into account - they should fall on these jumpers. It is best to draw up a plan in advance to scale - this will make it easier to calculate the installation locations of the floor frame parts and cutting the plywood sheets. |
 | It is assumed that all preparatory work has already been carried out. Nevertheless, before starting work, you should thoroughly clean the surface, remove small construction debris and dust. |
 | In accordance with the drawn up plan, the floor surface is marked. First, you should mark the lines for installing the lags, which will run along the walls. At the same time, we take into account that the logs are never attached close to the wall - there should be a gap of about 50 mm between the installed timber and the wall surface. On the wall with water or laser level the "zero line" is outlined and fought off - all the upper ends of the log beams and crossbars will be aligned along it, so that a common horizontal plane is obtained. |
 | For convenience, marking lines can be drawn with a marker directly on the surface of the concrete base - it will be easier to navigate this way when attaching the brackets. |
 | After the lines of the edge lags have been drawn, it will not be difficult to draw the central one - exactly in the middle between them. You can immediately draw lines for mounting the crossbars - with a set pitch and taking into account the joining of the flooring sheets. |
 | Risks are placed at the points where the brackets will be attached to the floor. The brackets extreme on each log should be located as close as possible to the perpendicular walls - an indent of about 50 ÷ 70 mm is left. If the balcony is long and the log beams will have to be joined, then a stand is also installed at the junction point, regardless of the step - the end of the log should not sag. The posts on the lintels are installed exactly in the center. |
 | The bracket is installed in the center of the marked crosshair, and through the holes in its lower shelf, the points for the dowels are marked with a marker. At designated locations in concrete base using a punch, holes are drilled for installing dowels. |
 | Racks-brackets with their transverse shelf are attached with dowels to the surface of the concrete base. Before firmly tightening the mount, it is imperative to check the evenness of the alignment of the brackets strictly along the line, not allowing them even a slight rotation around the axis - otherwise the installation of the bar will be problematic. |
 | As a result, you should get such an even row of racks-brackets. |
 | A very common mistake of novice craftsmen - they fix the lags by themselves, and only then they begin to deal with the issues of insulation. As a result, cavities not filled with thermal insulation may remain, and the racks themselves without insulation inside turn into cold bridges. To avoid this, insulation works best done in parallel. In our case, you can do this: Strips with a width of about 150 ÷ 200 mm are cut from the basalt wool slabs. They are marked (cut with a knife) slots for the vertical shelves of the brackets. Then the strips of insulation are literally put on the racks. The result is a continuous insulated strip with plates sticking out of it. |
 | Now you can start installing the first lag. The bar is inserted between the shelves of the brackets. To begin with, on one side, its upper edge is set along the intended "zero line", and the lag is temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw, without a strong tightening. |
 | Then work continues on the opposite side of the bar. A building level is set on the lag, and it is displayed exactly in a horizontal position. For control, you can be guided by the "zero level" mark - everything must match exactly. When desired result reached, the lag is also fixed with a self-tapping screw. Now you can screw in and tighten two self-tapping screws from both ends of the timber. |
 | To securely fasten the beam, it must be fixed on both sides of the bracket. However, the extreme lags will be close to the wall, and you can't get there with a screwdriver, let alone a screwdriver. This means that we are using a different technological method. A 6.5 mm metal drill is inserted into the drill. Then a through hole is drilled right through the metal plates and the bar installed between them. You need two such holes for each rack, and it is better to arrange them diagonally. Then M6 bolts 60 ÷ 70 mm long are inserted into these holes, a washer is put on each and a nut is attached, and then it will be easy to tighten with a 10 spanner. |
 | As a result, on each rack along the wall, the log gets the most reliable fixation. This attachment point will look like this. |
 | The "suite" of racks, an insulating belt and the log itself are installed in the same way, and on the other side, along the opposite wall. At the same time, it is necessarily controlled mutual arrangement bars - their upper faces should also be located in the same horizontal plane. |
 | Along the designated center line, a number of racks are installed for the middle log - this is well shown in the figure. |
 | Further - everything is in the same sequence: a layer of insulation and fixing the timber. But there is also a significant difference - there is much less hassle with installing the log vertically, since the plane is already set by the extreme bars. And fastening here is much easier - no screws are required, since you can firmly tighten the lag on both sides with self-tapping screws, at least two on each side. |
 | Longitudinal logs are set in three lines and are fixed. The struts are strong enough to withstand vertical loads. But when force is applied from the side or at an angle to the vertical, it can be seen that a certain "degree of freedom" is still preserved. And in order to achieve complete stability of the frame, it is necessary to tie the logs with crossbars. |
 | There is one bracket for each of the jumpers, exactly in the center. The same technique is used - installation of the rack, then an insulating layer, which should tightly fit with the already laid longitudinal strips of mineral wool. |
 | A jumper of the required length cut off from the bar (so that it fits precisely, but without effort between the lag bars) is inserted between the shelves of the bracket, but is not immediately attached to it. First, you need to set its upper edge flush with the lag bars and fix it in this position with metal corners using self-tapping screws. |
 | Well, when it is exactly baited, you can carry out the final fixing, including the bracket. |
 | In fact, the assembly of the frame is completely finished. You can move on to full insulation. |
 | Between the already installed strips of basalt wool, we still have quite extensive "windows". According to their size, the required fragments are cut out of the blocks, so that they stand close, without the slightest gaps. It is not difficult to do this with mineral wool. |
 | Then the second layer is laid - already between the logs and crossbars. When cutting out fragments, they are always made 10 ÷ 15 mm larger - this will ensure the density of laying of the insulation layer, the gap between the beams. |
 | Workpieces of the required length and width are cut from plywood sheets and measured on site. A gap of about 5 ÷ 8 mm must be left between the edge of the plywood and the wall. In the process of trying on, you should immediately outline the lines along which the rows of screws will be screwed in - so that they fall in the center of the longitudinal and transverse beams. |
 | The surface insulated with mineral wool, as already mentioned, should be covered with a layer of vapor-permeable diffuse membrane on top. Then cut and fitted plywood blanks are sequentially stacked on top, and fixed to the frame beams with self-tapping screws. The self-tapping screws are screwed in with such an effort that their heads "sink" into the plywood surface by about 1 mm. Between adjacent fasteners, a pitch of approximately 150 ÷ 200 mm is maintained. |
 | As a result, we got a horizontally verified and very stable plywood coating with high-quality insulation. The gaps between the plywood and the surface of the walls can be filled with polyurethane foam, and after hardening, the excess protruding can be cut off. The resulting plywood surface will be an excellent basis for almost any type of topcoat for insulated balcony floors. |
Insulated floor with infrared heating
Now let's consider another interesting example of floor insulation on a balcony. The initial conditions and the tasks facing here are somewhat different.
The arrangement of the floor is carried out in a complex with insulation and decoration of the entire balcony, with the general goal of turning it into a full-fledged comfortable room. The floor already has sufficient waterproofing. Moreover, it was previously laid out with ceramic tiles, and the base was leveled horizontally. That is, there is no problem of setting a lag by level in this case. Extruded polystyrene foam - "Penoplex" 50 mm thick will be used for insulation. Such a layer will create reliable thermal insulation against the penetration of cold from below, and besides, it will not allow unnecessary energy losses from the "warm floor" for absolutely unnecessary heating of the floor slab.
In addition, it is planned to use infrared film heaters, and according to the technology, an insulating reflective substrate should be used under them. In our case, we used "penofol" 3 mm thick.
The order of work is in the illustrated table:
| Illustration | Brief description of the performed operation |
|---|---|
 | In the initial positions - the floor is ready for work, materials are available. |
 | The installation of the frame begins. It will be two-tier - at the bottom, transverse support beams will lie on the floor surface, and on top of them, perpendicularly, there will be logs in three rows, two along the walls and one in the center. The floor does not need to be leveled, but in order for the surface to end up being even and stable, all frame parts must be made of quality timber with precisely chased dimensions in the section - 50 × 50. |
 | To begin with, transverse beams are cut along the width of the balcony from the wall of the house to the outside, minus about 100 mm, so that there is a clearance of about 50 mm on each side. |
 | The cut beams are laid out parallel to each other in increments of approximately 500 mm. In this case, great accuracy with respect to right angles is not required, but it is better, of course, to use a square. If the balcony has a complex configuration, then this is taken into account when laying out - beams are added at turns. |
 | After the beams are laid out, longitudinal logs can be cut and laid perpendicular to them. The extreme logs should be about 50 mm from the walls |
 | After laying the logs, they are attached to the transverse beams with self-tapping screws. |
 | The resulting lattice frame is gradually gaining integrity, but it is not yet fixed to the floor surface. This will be done in the next step. |
 | Holes are drilled through the beams in the floor surface for the installation of spacer anchors. Each beam is anchored on two opposite sides. |
 | Anchors are hammered into drilled holes ... |
 | ... and then tightened to ensure that the assembled frame is securely attached to the base floor surface. |
 | The frame is assembled and fixed. You can proceed to its insulation. |
 | Penoplex plates are used for insulation. They are cut into fragments with the expectation of laying on beams between the lags. |
 | It is not necessary to achieve a tight fit of expanded polystyrene to the logs - this is almost impossible to do. On the contrary, it is better to leave gaps of the order of 5 - 7 mm. |
 | It is necessary to fill the entire space with insulation material, including the gaps between the logs and the wall. With proper cutting, there should be practically no waste - there will be a place for any trimming. |
 | All left gaps, including those between adjacent fragments of "Penoplex", are neatly filled with polyurethane foam after installation. It is necessary to achieve complete sealing of the created insulation coating. |
 | After all the gaps are filled, they wait until the foam has completely solidified, and then cut off the excess that has come out flush with the surface. |
 | You can move on to the plywood flooring. Plywood sheets with a thickness of 15 or 20 mm are cut to the required size. |
 | The cut fragments are placed on the lags, adjusted to each other ... |
 | … And then attached to the joists with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 150 mm. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be recessed in plywood by 1 mm. |
 | The insulated plywood base is ready. You can proceed to the installation of an infrared "warm floor". |
 | First of all, the entire surface of the floor is covered with penofol, the foil side up. The edges of the backing must be fixed, for example, with double-sided tape. If you have to connect two penofol canvases, then they are stacked end-to-end, and the seam is glued with tape, ideally with foil. |
 | Infrared film heaters are rolled along the length. |
 | Usually, with a standard balcony width, two heaters can be installed. Between themselves and along the edges, to the substrate, they are fixed with tape. It is forbidden to superimpose one canvas on another. |
 | Further, all the operations necessary for the installation of a film infrared "warm floor" are performed: - the unused ends of the busbars are insulated; |
 | - wires are laid and a temperature sensor with a signal cable is installed. |
 | - the cable part is switched according to the diagram. |
 | - the wires are commuted at the terminals of the thermostat control unit. The unit itself is installed in a place prepared for it, convenient for everyday access. |
 | After the completion of installation and switching, a test run of the heating system is carried out, literally for a few seconds. After making sure that the "warm floor" is working - the appearance of heating, the power is turned off. A full-fledged start of the system can only be brought about by the field of laying the finishing floor covering. |
 | Film infrared heaters are quite safe, but do not forget that 220 volts are used there. And in order to avoid emergency situations caused, for example, by careless spillage of water on the floor, it is better to insure yourself and cover the system with a layer of waterproofing. For this, a polyethylene film with a thickness of about 200 microns can be used. It is spread over the entire surface of the floor, the excess can then be cut off. |
 | It is important to achieve maximum sealing. To do this, the film is attached to the walls with waterproof tape so that there is no gap left. When using several canvases, they are laid with an overlap of about 200 mm, and then the seam is also sealed with waterproof tape. |
 | On top of the film, you can lay the selected topcoat, carefully so as not to damage it. In this case, the owners chose laminate flooring. |
 | The result of the work is a beautiful, reliably heat-insulated warm floor. The final touches remain - to finish the wall decoration and to mount the baseboards. |
In the process of presenting the sequence of works, the installation of an electric "warm floor" was considered in passing. This is a topic for a separate conversation, since this issue has a lot of its own nuances.
"Warm floor" on a wooden base? Yes it is possible!
Both water and electric "warm floor" can be mounted on a wooden base. How to do it - read the special publication of our portal.
And at the end of the article - another way to insulate the floor on the balcony, a video lesson from a professional.
Video: tips for proper floor insulation on the balcony
Evgeny AfanasievChief Editor
Author of the publication 25.01.2016
It is difficult to find "extra" square meters in any apartment. Every free site becomes useful. It would be a mistake in such conditions to neglect the balcony room, leaving it the role of a warehouse for rarely used things and outright trash. The zealous owner will definitely turn it into a full-fledged room, but for this it is necessary to take care of heating, which is impossible without thermal insulation. Let's analyze, on.
Why thermal insulation is necessary
Thinking about it, you need to understand that finishing work will clearly not be enough to turn it into a full-fledged room. Even high-quality glazing will not save the day. It is necessary to close the space from the street, but this is very little. Temperature changes will not leave a chance for a new design and will make your stay on the balcony as uncomfortable as possible.
Therefore, the first thing to do after glazing is effective thermal insulation. It is required for all surfaces: ceiling, walls and floor. This is the only way to prevent heat leakage and, accordingly, to make the work efficient.
If the room will not be heated, the use of insulating materials will noticeably smooth out temperature drops and make its use more comfortable.
The better to insulate the floor on the balcony
Before starting work, you should select the type of material. His choice determines the installation technology and the set of necessary components. Several options are possible.
Foamed polyethylene
Based on it, whole group insulators roll type... Them distinctive feature- small thickness, so they are most often used together with other materials. The best choice can be considered a foil coating of the type that allows you to store thermal energy through additional reflection. In addition, foil is an excellent hydro and vapor barrier.
Perhaps the most famous insulator of this type is penofol. On sale you can find three varieties of it, marked with different letters.
- A. Only one side of the panel is covered with foil.
- B. Both sides are foil.
- C. Foil only on the outside, an adhesive layer is applied to the inside.
The latter version is a little more expensive, but it is very convenient to mount it.
Expanded polystyrene
The most affordable foam polystyrene insulator is polystyrene foam. It is produced in the form of slabs, which are easy to lay in the desired place. Differs in low thermal conductivity, low weight and insensitivity to moisture. Of the negative qualities, fragility, flammability and possible toxicity should be noted. The latter depends on the quality of the selected foam. In addition, the vapor permeability of the material is almost zero. However, this is not important.
In all respects, it is superior to extruded polystyrene foam. Produced under the brands penoplex, technoplex, etc. Possesses high insulating characteristics, low weight, produced in the form of plates. Non-toxic, moisture-proof, low vapor permeability. The disadvantages include flammability and higher cost than foam.
Mineral wool
The general name for fiber insulation, produced in the form of rolls or slabs. Their common advantages include low cost, low thermal conductivity and sufficient elasticity, which allows you to fill the space to be insulated without voids. Unfortunately, cotton wool does not tolerate high humidity at all. They absorb water and then lose their insulating properties. They can also lose shape over time.
There are several. Slag is made from blast furnace waste. It is toxic and not suitable for residential use. Glass wool is produced from waste from the glass industry. The main disadvantage is the fragility of the fibers. The resulting particles are dangerous to the human body. Therefore, special care is required when working with it. In addition, shards of fiberglass must not enter rooms where people are.
Expanded clay
Porous clay balls of various fractions. Has a fairly low thermal conductivity, environmentally friendly material, non-flammable. Of the shortcomings, perhaps, only the rather high cost of the insulator. However, it is rarely used for balconies, since for high-quality thermal insulation it will be necessary to lay a high layer of expanded clay. This will put a significant load on concrete slab, which is most often undesirable.
We have listed the most requested options. It is possible to use other, newer materials. For example, ecowool or. They are distinguished by excellent insulating characteristics, they serve for a long time. During operation they do not lose their properties. But at the same time, their installation is carried out only by professionals using special equipment.
Preparatory work
After the insulation is selected, you need to carry out competent preparation for its installation. To begin with, it is worth assessing the general condition of the floor. If it is satisfactory, that is, the surface is free from defects, relatively flat, does not crumble, you can proceed to the next stage.
In the presence of significant defects in the base in the form of cracks, chips or potholes, it is advisable to eliminate them. It does not matter that the surface will subsequently be covered with an insulator. Flaws will become a kind of reservoirs where moisture begins to accumulate. Subsequently, they can settle here, there will be foci of erosion. Therefore, all defects are carefully repaired.
The protrusions are chipped off, the cracks are neatly embroidered. That is, they expand at an angle so that the repair compound can fill them as tightly as possible. Then everything is well cleaned of dust and primed. After drying, the defective areas are filled with putty, etc. After the composition has completely dried, the "patches" are cleaned so that they do not protrude above the floor level. Installing the screed is most likely not worth it. It will significantly weigh down the structure.
The next important step is waterproofing. The balcony slab is porous. This means that insulated from the inside, it will still absorb moisture from the outside. The water will quickly reach the heat insulator through the capillaries and begin to destroy it.
Therefore, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing coating. You can choose any option. The easiest way will be to work with mastic, which is applied with a roller or brush. But you can also lay a roll cloth.
How to insulate the floor on the balcony: 2 possible ways
The way of installing thermal insulation depends on the material to be installed. According to the rules, it is mounted on a base previously treated with waterproofing. The floor will need to be raised to the height of the insulation cake. From above, the thermal insulation coating is closed with another layer of vapor and waterproofing. Next, the subfloor is laid, mounted on top. Let's analyze two options for arranging such structures.
Insulated construction on racks
The easiest way is to place the rough floor boards on the joists. So that they are leveled at the desired level and raised to a height sufficient for the installation of the insulation. Metal corners, brackets in the form of the letter "p", etc. can be used as racks holding the lags. The work is carried out in the following sequence.
- We carry out cleaning of the base, we remove the debris that fell on it.
- We mark the surface for the racks. The step of fastening the longitudinal lags is 50 cm. In addition, you will need a rack for each of the jumpers. We start marking from the wall, retreating from them by 5 cm.
- We mark the "zero line" on the wall. We will use it for this. We will align the height of the lag installation along it.
- We install racks or brackets. We fix them securely on the base.
- We put the lags in place. Correctly align them along the "zero line", control the horizontal using a level.
- We put insulation between the lags. We cut off fragments of a roll or plate with a small margin, so that the material has to be lightly tamped. So you can close all the voids.
- We lay a diffuse membrane, which will become vapor and waterproofing.
- Installing a subfloor made of plywood. We fix the sheets to the racks.
You can then install the selected floor covering. It can be a board, linoleum, carpet, laminate. The latter is chosen quite often. It is practical, functional and beautiful at the same time. It is not difficult to lay it.
Insulated base with heating
It is possible to insulate the structure with the simultaneous use of heating. This makes it possible to get a living space without bringing the heating system to it. The best choice in this case . We will analyze how to equip last option.
To begin with, the base is insulated according to the scheme described above. Further, such operations are performed.
- On top of the rough coating, we lay a foil-type substrate of the penofol type. Foil upward so that the heat rays are reflected from it. Place the fragments end-to-end, glue them with foil tape.
- We roll out film heaters along the length. We make sure that the panels do not lie on top of each other. We fix them in place with tape.
- We connect the system. See the video for details.
- We cover the heaters with foil to prevent contact with water.
- We put it down finishing... Laminate, linoleum, carpet, etc. will do.
We figured out how to properly insulate the floor on the balcony. It is easy and quite affordable to do it yourself. It is very important to choose the right thermal insulation materials and install them following the manufacturer's recommendations. Then no cold weather will be terrible for the renovated balcony room.
Tsugunov Anton Valerievich
Reading time: 5 minutes
Warming a loggia in an apartment is a great chance to create your own winter Garden or to increase the living space. You can turn it into a miniature gym, a cozy office, or make redevelopment by adding a few square meters to the area of the room. Insulation of the floor on the loggia is an integral part of creating a comfortable environment in this room. Let's figure out how to do it right without wasting time, money and effort.
Preparation for floor insulation on the loggia
This stage is very important: the service life of the floor, as well as the ease of work, depends on the quality of surface preparation. Step-by-step instruction in preparation for floor insulation will look like this:
- The first step is to glaze the loggia. The most suitable are double-glazed windows. Wooden frames with one glass can be installed only if the loggia will not be heated and used throughout the year.
- Thorough cleaning of the room. There should be no dust on the loggia.
- Sealing cracks. Small cracks are filled with polyurethane foam or sealant, and large ones with broken brick or crushed stone mixed in a cement solution.
- Thinking over the location of the outlets and the lighting system. Please note that the floors will rise by at least a few centimeters.
- If, due to the loggia, the area of the room will increase or it will be used constantly, you need to think about heating.
Important! It is prohibited to carry radiators connected to central heating to a balcony or loggia. Permission for such an event can be obtained only in some regions of the country, but for this it will be necessary to prove that the loggia is insulated with very high quality.
- If there are ceramic tiles on the floor, remove them together with the adhesive.
Floor insulation should be carried out on a glazed loggia, protected from moisture penetration. The floor must be completely dry.
The choice of material and floor construction
Do-it-yourself insulation of the loggia floor begins with the question: What kind of insulation to choose?
- Mineral wool. Considered one of the best heaters for technical and operational characteristics. It is durable, does not burn, is a vapor-permeable material. The main disadvantage is the fear of moisture, due to which the mineral wool loses its properties, therefore, when using it, high-quality steam and waterproofing is required.
- Expanded clay. Loose insulation with good thermal insulation properties and affordable cost. For high-quality insulation, a large layer is required - from 15 cm. The disadvantages include high hygroscopicity.
- Penofol (isolon). Foil-coated polyethylene foam (photo). To insulate a balcony, its thickness will not be enough, but it is successfully used as a heat reflector and vapor barrier in combination with another insulation, such as mineral wool, making the thermal insulation ideal.
There are two ways to insulate the floor on the loggia with your own hands:
- Warming along the logs. A simple and quick method of installing a floor with insulation; any of the above insulation materials can be used for its implementation. The heat-insulating material is placed in the gaps between the logs, a flooring of boards or plywood sheets is placed on top, as in the next photo.
- Laying insulation under the screed. When choosing this method, you can insulate the floor on the loggia with expanded polystyrene (polystyrene, penoplex) or kermzite. The screed is the best choice when installing a "warm floor" on the loggia, but you need to take into account that you will have to wait a long time for it to dry.
Important! Laying the heat insulator under the screed is possible with the insulation of the loggia, which has a reliable overlap. In the case of a balcony, it is better to immediately choose a lagged floor structure, since the balcony slab may not withstand the weight of the screed.
Warming the floor of the loggia along the logs
The step-by-step instructions for choosing a lag structure will be as follows:
- Floor level markings. It is best to make sure that the floor on the loggia is level with floor covering in the rooms. The insulation together with the coating should not be higher than the level set by you. When marking, it is convenient to use a laser or water level.
- Laying a layer of waterproofing. You can use roofing material or technical polyethylene, laid in 2 layers. The material is overlapped, and the walls are overlapped with at least 50 millimeters.
- Installation of wooden logs, which are pine beams 50 × 50 mm. They are laid at intervals of 30–40 cm, fixed to concrete with dowels and self-tapping screws. The first element can be placed at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall. There should be a gap of 3 cm between the ends of the log and the walls, so that the bars, having absorbed moisture, do not bend and do not spoil the floor covering.
Important! Each bar must be treated with an antiseptic without fail.
- Insulation laying. It is necessary to insert plates of mineral wool or foam so that there are no gaps between the lags, as in the photo. If they nevertheless formed, they must be filled with polyurethane foam. Expanded clay is simply poured into the intervals of the crate, which should protrude at least 15 cm above the subfloor level.
- Arrangement of a vapor barrier. For this layer, you can use a film or foil-clad polyethylene insulation.
- Organization of the flooring. You can use boards, but more often the flooring is made of plywood or OSB.
- Installation of the topcoat.
Features of foam insulation
Insulation of the floor on the loggia with the help of penoplex has its own characteristics. The fact is that due to the strength of the material when laying it under the flooring, it is not necessary to use the logs, lay plywood sheets you can directly on the penoplex. The stages of work will be as follows:
- A leveling screed is made on the prepared floor, which is necessary to prevent deformation of the insulation boards.
- After being adjusted to size, foam boards are glued with special glue directly to the floor. It is convenient to use a type of insulation that has a groove connection system. If it is not there, then along the joints between the plates, as well as between them and the walls, you need to walk with polyurethane foam.
- To increase the efficiency of the floor insulation, you can lay the foam foil (isolon) on top with the foil side outward, gluing the joints with reinforced tape.
The following photo demonstrates the process of warming in this way.
Warming the floor of the loggia with penoplex under the screed is an excellent solution when organizing a system of underfloor heating. Such insulation is done as follows:
- After removing the old coating, a thin leveling cement screed is made. Without a perfectly flat floor, foam sheets can be damaged.
- A film is laid for steam and waterproofing, the joints are glued with tape.
- Stacked foam sheets with a thickness of 40-60 mm. The joints are sealed with polyurethane foam or sealant.
- The second layer of vapor barrier is placed.
- The foil-coated heat reflector is laid with the foil facing up.
- A "warm floor" system of the selected type is installed.
- The screed is poured. When arranging the heating system, its thickness should be at least 7 cm, without it - at least 4 cm.