New experience or How to drill a toilet. Flush mechanism for the toilet: device, principle of operation, overview of various designs To bore a hole in the toilet

Without a toilet bowl in the bathroom, you can't call a cottage or apartment comfortable. Agree, this statement is difficult to refute. There are a huge number of models of this plumbing. But a particular difficulty internal device they do not differ, the principle of operation is the same for all modifications.

If there is a breakdown with the water supply, then the flush mechanism for the toilet will most likely have to be repaired - it is the flush system that most often fails with this plumbing fixture. We are ready to help you quickly deal with this problem.

In this material, we have collected and summarized information about the main types of toilet cisterns, breakdowns that may occur, and ways to eliminate them. For clarity, the materials are accompanied by thematic photos and videos.

The cistern is an integral and one of the main elements of the toilet. This is a container with two or three technological holes for water inlet / outlet and a lid.

First, water is drawn into this reservoir, and then, when a button is pressed, it is drained into the toilet bowl to flush the sewage down the drain.

There is nothing particularly interesting or complicated in the design of a toilet cistern. There are only a couple of mechanisms inside.

One ensures the supply and shutdown of the supplied water at the moment when it fills the container to the desired level, and the second is designed to directly drain the accumulated moisture into the bowl.

Regardless of the design of the toilet bowl, a flush cistern must be present in it, since the direct supply of water from the cold water supply pipeline does not allow ensuring the proper quality and purity of flushing

According to the material of manufacture, cisterns are divided into three types:

  1. Ceramic(earthenware) - reliable and cheap classics.
  2. Metallic- not very aesthetic in appearance, but a durable option.
  3. Plastic(made of polyethylene) - lightweight blocks in terms of weight and installation.

According to the method of attachment and location, they are:

  • low-lying- installed directly on the toilet bowl;
  • high-lying- they are hung on the wall or located inside it in the installation block.

Separate toilets, in which the cistern is separated from the bowl, for overflowing water have drain pipe... And the higher is suspended from them storage capacity, the more powerful the water pressure is obtained from it.

Their only drawback is the not very presentable appearance of the tank, located high above the floor. Therefore, most often in domestic toilets, you can see models of toilet bowls with cisterns placed directly on the edge of the bowl. They are more compact and aesthetic.

Water supply system options

The internal mechanism for feeding water into the toilet cistern includes:

  • tap ();
  • levers.

Water supply to the storage device is carried out through a hole in its housing on the right, left or bottom. In the lateral method, the float is attached to the end of the horizontal arm, which is connected to the ball valve.

And with the bottom version, the float is connected to a vertical rod located in the supply pipe.

The basic principle of the mechanism for supplying water to the toilet cistern is extremely simple. As a result of the emptying of the reservoir, the float, which is kept on the water by the air inside, falls following the decrease in the liquid level.

Once at the bottom, he opens the valve of the fittings on the water supply system, and as the tank is filled, it rises again and shuts off the water supply.

Everything in the operation of this mechanism is based on the laws of physics. There is no electronics in its design, which significantly reduces the risk of breakdown. It is possible that there is too little or too much water in the toilet cistern.

Then the float only needs to be adjusted so that the filling of the tank matches the required parameters. But if the levers are broken, then the float system will have to be changed.

Varieties of drainage mechanisms

If it is necessary to flush the unnecessary from the toilet, we simply press the button on the cistern. Everything else happens by itself. Inside, a water drainage mechanism is triggered, opening the drain valve.

As a result, the water stream rushes into the bowl and flushes everything into the sewer system.

The mechanisms of filling and draining are not structurally connected with each other, each of them functions independently, but these devices start / stop in a bundle at the same time

The drain device is driven by:

  • by pressing a button;
  • by pressing the lever;
  • pulling the chain (rope).

The cisterns are available in different shapes and designs. However, most of them are standardized for a volume of 6 or 4 liters and have typical hole sizes for drain valves.

There are a huge number of water drainage mechanisms themselves, different in design. But if the one in the tank breaks down, it can be replaced with a new one without any problems.

Our other article contains information about the device of the spillway device -.

The simplest type of drain siphon is a "pear" shaped like a rubber plunger. Under the weight of the water, it presses tightly against the drain hole and closes it.

And when you press the lever, the "pear" rises due to mechanical force and releases water into the toilet bowl.

Then, as the tank fills, it becomes heavier and falls back onto the saddle, closing the drain again.

Everything is arranged in such a way that, by definition, it will not be able to pour out of the tank. When triggered, such a transfusion will lead to an increase in the cold water meter readings, but will avoid a flood.

Structurally, the drain of water in the toilet itself is horizontal or circular. The first classic version assumes the supply of water in a continuous flow from one side of the bowl, and the second - the formation of jets in a circular manner from its bypass.

Horizontal descent is cheaper in execution, but uneconomical and worse washes the sanitary ware. The circular analogue is better in all operational parameters.

However, with a high degree of water hardness, its small holes can become clogged, which will lead to a decrease in the number of jets.

The principle of operation of the dual-mode drain

Modern models of flush cisterns are equipped with a double flush button. This is a tribute to the water saving fashion.

Such devices are designed for two modes of operation:

  • standard- to dump the entire tank into the bowl (4 or 6 liters);
  • half- to pour out only a part of the volume (2 or 3 liters).

Such a system is more economical in terms of water consumption. But it is also more capricious in terms of setting and repairing. The number of internal elements in it is increased, which means that the risk of breakage of this device also increases.

A two-mode flush tank with a pair of buttons allows you to significantly save water, since in some cases only part of it is used, and not all of it

In addition to the double version, there can be one button for a dual-mode drain mechanism. In this case, the released volume of water depends on the force of pressure of a person on the lever.

As long as the button is pressed, the drain hole remains open, and when released, it returns upward and at the same time closes the drain.

Selection and repair of tank mechanisms

Choosing a toilet cistern, you have to compromise between the price of the flush device and its quality. The construction of metal elements is more durable, but also more expensive than a completely made of plastic.

The water supply from below is less noisy from the side, but you will have to overpay for it. The side-mounted mechanism is simpler in design and cheaper.

The Soviet float design with a plastic barrel on the shoulder made of wire may not look very presentable, but this is the most inexpensive and easy-to-adjust option.

The float is made in the form of a hollow sealed cylinder or an inverted glass. The first option is more reliable, but when holes appear in the plastic walls, you can forget about tightness. Water seeping through the holes will inevitably lead to failure of the float.

Its principle of operation is based on the presence of air inside. If punctures appear in the plastic, it must be replaced immediately.

The "glass" is initially leaky, it has an order of magnitude less trouble with breakdowns - but if it accumulates inside the sediment due to high water hardness, it will become too heavy and stop working properly

The problem may be due to a dirty drain valve. It's just that dirt has accumulated between the rubber element and the seat in the form of rust from old pipes or sludge.

In this case, you don't have to change anything, just remove the cover, lift the cuff and clean everything under it with a rag. But if the rubber is worn out or aged, then it will definitely need to be replaced.

You may also be interested in the information on how to replace, discussed in our article.

Before installing the valve inside the tank, it must be fixed to the bowl. The device and layout of the toilet cistern are such that after the installation of the internal mechanisms, it will be problematic to reach the tie bolts.

First, you should install and fix the ceramic tank on the edge of the toilet bowl, and only then install all the devices for supplying / draining water in it.

Repair of the float valve is carried out in the following order:

Image gallery

Disturbances in the operation of the cistern float valve are most often associated with damage to the membrane or valve. In order to replace the damaged element, unscrew the device

To "get" to the membrane or valve, we disassemble the valve head

If the membrane is torn, it will have to be replaced. we go with her to the store to buy exactly the same one. It happens that disturbances in the operation of the crane are associated only with the appearance of sediment on the parts, then we do not change anything, we just clean it with a brush dipped in vinegar

Instead of the damaged head of the float valve, we install a new element with a membrane. We put the device in its original place, if necessary, set the level

Step 1: Unscrewing the float valve from the tank wall

Step 2: Disassemble the float head

Step 3: Determining membrane damage

Step 4: Installing a new diaphragm head

Adjusting the water level

If the water is supplied from the side, then the maximum of its level in the tank is regulated by changing the length of the spoke. It is at its end that the float is fixed. In older and many newer models, a thick brass wire acts as this lever.

It just needs to be bent in the middle so that the float moves up or down. The higher it turns out to be, the more volume of the tank will be filled.

However, now more and more metal is being changed to plastic. And the plastic elements cannot be bent at the desired angle, they can simply break.

In such a design, the float must be shifted along the axis of the plastic stud, thereby increasing or decreasing the lever arm. The farther the float is from the valve, the more water will enter the tank.

Image gallery

In order to adjust the position of the float, remove the tank button, then the lid. We are looking for an adjusting bolt with a nut

We loosen the nut of the adjusting bolt, change the position of the float in accordance with the level we need, fix the result by tightening the nut with pliers

Pulling the flush rod, we check its operation, we monitor to what level the tank is filled after changing the position of the float

The level of water collected in the tank must be below the drain hole. If it is higher and water spills out of the hole, change the position of the float again

Step 1: Prepare to adjust the float position

Step 2: Adjusting the position of the float with the nut

Step 3: Checking the function of the flush device

Step 4: Change the level based on actual results

The float arm in models with bottom water inlet is located vertically. It is much easier to regulate the water level here.

The float element just needs to be moved up / down and fixed at the required height using the clamps or nuts provided for this.

To simplify the adjustment of the float position, some mechanisms have threaded connection on the boom or a rotating block to adjust the position of this "displacer"

The main problem when making an adjustment is not to change the position of the float, but to remove the lid of the toilet bowl. A drain button is attached to it, which in many models is rigidly connected to the release mechanism.

In order not to break anything, disassemble this structure with extreme caution. First you need to carefully unscrew the button clamping ring. And only after that it will be possible to move the cover without fear.

You still have an annoying breakage of the toilet lid? You can try to fix it yourself. In this article, we have walked through how to do this step by step.


If, when the float is in the upper position, water still continues to flow into the tank, then the problem lies in the inlet valve. It will have to be disassembled and cleaned or completely changed.

Almost all the working elements of the toilet cistern mechanism are now made of plastic, not metal. Because of this, they often break.

Plumbing stores sell both ready-made drain and supply structures, as well as their individual components for repair. In some situations, it is cheaper to replace only part of the device, while in others it is easier to replace the entire assembly.

Photo instructions for replacing the device

For home craftsmen who want to completely change a damaged drain device, the following photo instruction will help in their work:

Image gallery

We shut off the water supply, then drain all the water from the tank. Unscrew the button or remove the drain lever, remove the tank lid

In order to remove the broken drain mechanism, turn it 1/4 turn counterclockwise

We determine the cause of the malfunction of the drainage system. If it is damaged in the valve or in the appearance of a mineral sediment on it, clean the valve or replace it with a new one.

I'll start with a prehistory - then the title will be clear
The summer season began, and it began with me with a little trouble.
The country house is not heated in winter, it freezes. And since there was a global move last fall, I forgot to remove water from both toilets. As a result, both toilets have a snapped knee.
What to do? Change bowls. Toilets were bought a couple of years ago - we really liked the fresh models. Googled - there are toilet bowls complete with cisterns, there are no separate bowls (prices - 9000 and 3900). I contacted the manufacturer - the delivery time is 2.5 months. So the summer will end. Ambush.
And then I found separate bowls from the same series, but a slightly different model, and even 3000 each. I bought it.
But the ambush does not come alone.
The fact is that in these models, water is entered into the tank from the bottom - through the bowl shelf. Those bowls that burst were universal - with right and left inlet holes. The tanks are both with the left inlet. But the bowls, you guessed it, I bought with the right input. And there are no others.
The age-old Russian question - what to do? Hand over? Not! Drill!!!
Well, we got to the point.
And then everything is simple - first, feather drills on the tiles. 4mm-6mm-8mm
Then a crown. At first I used a bit for concrete, cheap, not diamond. Somehow this process completely began to oppress me - but with the result not very much. He spat, drove to Leroy and found what he needed - a diamond crown on porcelain stoneware. And for quite ridiculous money.
With her, we began a complete understanding and literally in 15 minutes. everything was ready.
Yes, the most important thing is that we drill at low-low speeds and always with water.

Problems in the toilet flush system are not uncommon, however, you can always fix them yourself, the only thing you need to do is remove the cistern lid. Dismantling must be done carefully, as it can be broken or broken. Therefore, in this article we will look at how to remove the toilet cistern lid of different types.

General information

In older models of drain tanks, it is usually quite easy to remove the panel; you just need to unscrew the top of the trigger and lift it up. In modern tanks, there is a drain button and a push-button cup, the design of which prevents the cover from being dismantled.

However, in any case, this design is collapsible, so this operation should not cause any special problems. The main thing is to perform any actions carefully, without excessive effort and without haste.

Before opening the toilet cistern lid, you need to prepare several tools that may be required in the process:

  • Pliers;
  • Screwdriver.

Note! When working with the tank, the water must be shut off. Otherwise, it may overflow and flood the bathroom.

In the photo - a tank with an upward thrust

Removing the cover

First of all, it should be said that the lids of some modern ceramic models of containers are removed very easily, since the drain button is not attached to the trigger. To verify this, you must carefully try to lift the part.

Below are the methods for dismantling panels of other common types of cistern structures:

  • If the water is drained by lifting the draft upwards, then before removing the lid of the toilet bowl, it is necessary to unscrew the ball located at the end of the handle.
  • Disassembling the container with drain buttons causes great difficulty, however, it is these models in Lately are becoming more and more popular. In this case, before opening the lid of the toilet cistern, you need to unscrew the tube inside which the buttons are located. Outside, it usually looks like a ring that must be pry off with a screwdriver or knife, and turned counterclockwise.

I must say that after that it will not be possible to completely remove the panel, you can only slightly raise it and turn it, after which you need to unfasten the latches of the button mechanism.

  • Soviet-style plastic cisterns, which are sometimes still found in apartments, have studs that must be pulled out before disassembling the structure with your own hands.

After the part is dismantled, it must be put in a safe place where it will be impossible to hook and break something.

Advice! After that, you should check its performance several times. In particular, you need to make sure that after lifting the float, the valve completely shuts off the water.

Cover repair

Gluing

If during the dismantling process something went wrong or the cover was broken for some reason, then you can try to restore it.

To do this, you need to prepare the following materials:

  • Scotch;
  • Epoxy adhesive;
  • Small plates of galvanized steel.

The instructions for doing this work are as follows:

  • First, all the individual parts must be assembled into a single structure and glued with tape. This must be done carefully so that there are no gaps left through which the glue can leak. To do this, all joints must be carefully glued with tape.
  • Then the assembled structure must be turned over inside up.
  • Before gluing the toilet cistern lid, you need to mix the glue and hardener in a ratio of 1:10.
  • All joints must be carefully greased with glue and galvanized plates must be attached to them from above, which will make the product rigid.
  • When the glue hardens (after about a day), the tape must be removed, after which the lid is installed on the toilet cistern.

Considering that the price of a new toilet is very high, this procedure will allow you to avoid unplanned spending of funds from family budget, wherein appearance plumbing will not be affected.

Opening enlargement

Often home craftsmen after replacement drain fittings face one difficulty - the diameter of the hole in the cover is less than the diameter of the reinforcement. Of course, it is not worth completely changing the plumbing fixture because of this, but how to enlarge the hole in the toilet cistern lid?

There are two ways to solve the problem:

  • Carefully drill the hole with a ceramic drill and chop off excess areas. Irregularities in this case will be hidden by the cap.
  • Gently chop off the glaze with a thin drill and hammer, and then widen the hole with a round file.

In both cases, you need to act very carefully so as not to split the surface, since it will be much more difficult to make a cover from the toilet bowl in this case.

These are, perhaps, all the main points that you need to know in order to dismantle the tank lid and, if necessary, repair it.

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