Correct sewerage. Internal sewerage device in a private house

During design and installation internal sewerage for a private house, no one is immune from mistakes that can lead to unpredictable consequences, from the appearance of an unpleasant odor to the complete inoperability of the system. Consider in this article the concept of internal sewerage in a private house: design and installation rules + analysis of common mistakes that arise in the process of all this.

General characteristics of the modern internal sewage system

Today, the construction of private suburban housing is experiencing a real boom. Therefore, it became necessary to create a convenient and modern system sewage system that an ordinary person who does not have a building education could mount. Such a system should have good performance, since the number of plumbing fixtures that produce household waste has increased significantly. Indeed, with the advent of automatic washing machines, dishwashers, jacuzzis and shower cabins, the water consumption of an ordinary household has increased to 200 liters per person per day.

The increase in the number of plumbing fixtures leads to a significant complication of the pipeline networks themselves. Fortunately, today they use PVC pipes, which are supplied with auxiliary fittings, with the help of which the installation of the pipeline becomes not more difficult to manufacture crafts from children's designer... All these parts are equipped with O-rings, which can be easily replaced if necessary.

Internal sewerage is a collection of plastic pipes and fittings for their connection, serving to drain wastewater from plumbing devices. The devices themselves are equipped with siphons necessary to prevent odor from entering the premises. Pipe-laying is subject to strict rules, failure to comply with which could result in disruption of the entire system.

Rules for laying pipes during the construction of an internal sewage system

The riser is used as the central outlet in the entire sewage system of the house. He can be one for the whole house. If the house is too large or the bathrooms are located at a considerable distance from each other, then two or more risers are made. They are vertically installed pipes that start at the basement and end at the roof. The lower part of the riser is connected to an inclined pipe of the same or larger diameter, which goes outside into a reservoir for the accumulation of wastewater or into a wastewater treatment plant. The upper part of the riser rises above the roof by at least 0.5 m. It is open or equipped with a check valve. For what it is needed - we will consider further. All connections leading from plumbing devices are connected to risers.

Fluid hydrodynamics in pipes

The pipe is a cylinder inside which water moves. When the pipe is completely filled with water, a piston effect occurs. This means that the pressure drops sharply on top of the water plug, and on the contrary increases from below. In a situation where there is an explosive discharge from the toilet cistern, the resulting vacuum is able to suck out all the water from the siphons. This is fraught with odors in rooms. On the contrary, in the direction of movement of the liquid, excess pressure arises, which is able to push the sewage out of the devices located below the toilet bowl.

Ignoring the laws of hydrodynamics leads to two common mistakes in the design and installation of sewers. The first mistake is the rejection of the ventilation device. The background pipe running from the riser to the roof not only removes the unpleasant odor, but also serves as a pressure compensator in the system. Indeed, if it is present, the reduced pressure above the water piston will not suck the water out of the siphons, but will ensure the flow of air into the system from the atmosphere, which will again equalize the pressure.

The second common mistake is that all plumbing fixtures are connected through supply pipes to the riser below the toilet. This is unacceptable, as it will certainly cause sewage to be poured into the sink or shower stall when flushing. Similar problems arise when the supply pipes are longer than their permissible length. So that such troubles do not arise, it is necessary to formulate some important rules for the installation of an internal sewage system.

Rules for the construction of indoor sewerage, violation of which is unacceptable

Attention! Violation of the following rules can lead to serious disruption of the internal sewerage system or an emergency.

The connection of the toilet bowl to the riser must be carried out separately from other plumbing devices.
All other plumbing elements are included in the system above the point of attachment of the toilet. Several devices can be located on one inlet pipe, if their capacity permits.
Any supply pipe must be no less in diameter than one that has largest diameter eyeliner from the device.
The outlet from the toilet bowl has a diameter of 100 mm, therefore, the riser should not be thinner than it.
The toilet is installed at a distance of no more than 1 m from the riser, and the rest of the devices no further than 3 m.
If the house has a supply pipe longer than 3 m, then it should not be thinner than 70 mm. An eyeliner that is longer than 5 m is already made from a 100 mm pipe.

If an increase in the diameter of the supply pipes is impossible for some reason, then there is a way to get around this rule. To do this, it is necessary to bring the end of such a pipe to the roof and provide it with a vacuum valve or loop it onto a riser above all other devices.

Quantitative characteristics of the parameters of laying sewer pipes

I exist important nuances, the observance of which will ensure the operability of the sewage system in the optimal mode:

The slope of all horizontal pipes depends on the diameter of their section. The standards say that a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm should be lowered by 3 cm every running meter of length, having a diameter of 100 to 110 mm by 2 cm per meter. Pipes with a diameter of more than 160 mm can be tilted no more than 0.8 cm per linear meter.
An indicator such as a height difference for a toilet bowl should be 1 m, and for other devices 3 m. Exceeding these parameters should be accompanied by the organization of ventilation at the ends of the corresponding supplies.

Another common mistake is incorrectly fitting corners. If you make the corners of 90 degrees, then as a result of the rebound, a blockage from waste will form in this place, and the pipe will quickly clog. For this reason, it is necessary to create a smooth flow of water at the corners. For this, fittings are used with an angle of inclination of 135 degrees.

The fourth mistake is the outlet of the fan pipe not to the roof, but to the general house ventilation... Such a device will create an unforgettable "aroma" throughout the house, which can only be eliminated by redoing the entire system.

In order not to hear the sounds of water moving through the pipes, it is necessary to arrange sound insulation. For this, the pipes are wrapped mineral wool and placed in boxes of plasterboard sheets. For timely and convenient maintenance, the pipes are equipped with inspection hatches every 15 m. The same applies to all turns.

Fifth mistake. Not installed in the pipe connecting the domestic sewage system and the septic tank check valve... In this case, if the outdoor disposal units are overfilled, water may rise up the pipes and flood the basement.

Errors related to the connection of siphons

The connection of any plumbing fixture to the sewerage system is carried out through siphons in the form of the letter U. Such a curved shape allows water to be constantly in it. It forms a water barrier and prevents odor from entering the room. However, this system stops working when some mistakes are made. The main mistake is the lack of ventilation. In this case, the vacuum simply sucks the water out of the siphon, allowing odors to flow freely through the house. Another reason for the appearance of an unpleasant odor is the banal evaporation of water from the siphon. This happens when the device is used infrequently. You just need to plug a rarely-used device with a rag.

What calculations are made when planning an internal sewage system

The work on the design of the internal sewerage system must be carried out strictly in accordance with the above rules. In addition, to comply with them, certain calculations are required:

The general diagram indicates the places where this or that device will be located. Its distance from the riser, the diameter of the supply pipe, the option of fastening and connections to the sewer are thought out in advance. At the same time, they calculate required amount materials.
Determined with the type of the sewer system itself. They are pressure and gravity. Usually, due to simplicity, a system is used in which water flows under the influence of the gravity of the Earth. The main thing here is to calculate the slope of the pipes according to the rules outlined above.
According to technical specifications of each sanitary device, calculate its instantaneous flow. The thickness of the supply pipe depends on this indicator. In most cases, a 50 mm pipe is suitable for all devices except the toilet.
The most optimal place for the installation of the riser is calculated. Most often these are toilets. If there are two of them in the house, in different vertical planes, then it is better to make two risers.
It is necessary to calculate the sewerage scheme in such a way as to minimize the number of available turning angles. This will significantly reduce the risk of blockages.

The above calculations, performed correctly, will make the sewage system the most efficient and efficient even in the event of overloads.

What is needed for the construction of an intra-house sewage system

As mentioned above, the main thing in the sewage system inside the house is to draw up a detailed drawing of it, indicating all devices and dimensions of the elements. For installation, sewer pipes made of polyvinyl chloride are used. The arrangement of their ends is such that two pipes can be connected by placing the end of one in the socket of the other. For risers, pipes with a diameter of 100 mm are used, and for other devices 50 mm. A corrugated pipe is used to connect to an external sewage system, due to its better resistance to ground movements.

Of the tools, they are usually used: a saw for cutting plastic pipes, a sharp knife and rubber mounting seals. With a saw, pipes are cut, with a knife they level the cuts and make chamfers. Rubber seals are inserted into the sockets. Various fittings are used to connect pipes into the system:

Elbows or elbows, which are needed to decorate the corners. They are produced with a bend of 45 and 90 degrees. Their ends are also equipped with sockets with seals to create tight connections.
If it is necessary to connect pipe cuttings of the same diameter, use transition bends.
Tees different types are fittings for organizing pipe branching.
Reducing couplings are needed in order to create transitions between pipes of different thicknesses.

A common mistake when installing plastic sewer pipes Is ignoring their heating. To make the pipes easier and denser to fit into each other and into the connecting fittings, the sockets must be heated in hot water.

The sequence of work during the installation of internal sewerage

Installation of the sewer system inside the house is carried out in the following order:

First, the risers are installed, bringing their ends to the roof and to the basement. They should be in close proximity to toilets. In the basement, they are connected to an inclined pipe that goes out into the septic tank, and the upper ends are left open or equipped with check valves.

Secondly, supply lines from toilets are brought to the riser. They must be separate.

Thirdly, they are connected to the risers of the connections from other devices above the inlets of the toilet bowls.

Fourthly, siphons are installed on all devices.

Fifthly, they connect the siphons with the liners.

In conclusion, we say that a properly designed and assembled sewage system will work all the time it is supposed to do without serious problems.

Living in a private house, every owner dreams of creating in it maximum comfort providing a comfortable standard of living. Therefore, it is important to worry in advance about such an important issue as installing a sewage system in a private house with your own hands. And below you will learn how to do all the work correctly, correctly and not harm the environment.

At self-construction of the sewer system, you can save a lot. But it is important to do all the work correctly, taking into account all the requirements for construction and installation work.

Attention! Your site may require drainage, and you can buy everything you need for it at a discount in the online store https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/. But be sure to indicate that you have entered from our site "Remontik".

The choice of the sewerage system scheme should always be made in strict accordance with the layout of your house.

When planning, we recommend to provide for the most compact arrangement of rooms for which water drainage and supply will be carried out (bathrooms, shower rooms, toilets, laundries and kitchens). But the most the best way consists in such an arrangement in which all plumbing equipment will be tied to one collector, through which wastewater will be drained into a septic tank or cesspool.

If there is a large country house, which provides several different premises with a drain / supply of waters located in different parts of the building, experts advise giving preference to such a sewage system, in which there will be at least two septic tanks or cesspools. In addition, if your house has two or more floors, and the bathrooms, baths and kitchens are on different floors, then you have to install the risers.

Sewerage installation in a private house. Sewerage types

All work on the construction of a sewerage system in a country house or in the country is reduced to the device of external and internal sewerage.

The work on the internal sewage system should include the installation of a fan pipe, a riser and piping to such premises as a kitchen, shower room, toilet, etc. The external or external sewage system includes everything outside the house, that is, the system of pipes that go from the house to the deep cleaning station (quite an expensive solution) or to the septic tank itself (with a storage tank or filtration field).

Of course, if you can connect to a centralized waste disposal system, then the task will be greatly simplified. However, below we will consider autonomous system, which includes effective wastewater treatment in a septic tank, and not such a primitive structure as a cesspool.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house

First of all, you need to deal with the internal circuitry. Even during the design of the house, you need to make sure that all the rooms where the sewerage will be carried out are as close to each other as possible, since this approach allows you to simplify the scheme of the internal sewerage device. Each private house involves the installation of an individual sewerage scheme, which can be very different.

Therefore, you should take into account the fact that in the toilet, pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm must be used for draining wastewater. For gray drains entering the sewer from the bathroom or kitchen, it is worth using PVC or PP pipes with a diameter of 50 mm. All turns must be done using two plastic elbows that are bent at an angle of 45 degrees, since in the future this will minimize the possibility of blockage (otherwise, it will be quite difficult to eliminate it).

It is cheaper and more reliable to use polypropylene (PP) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes in the sewage system. In addition, it is much easier to arrange an internal sewage system using such pipes.

First of all, you must decide where the riser or collector pipe will be located, and only then carry out further wiring from it.

But first of all, it is worthwhile to figure out as accurately as possible how to independently develop a sewage system for your home, since in the future you can use it for a complete calculation of materials and plumbing equipment that will be needed to install a sewer system in a private house.

You can make a sewerage scheme on a piece of paper in a box, but it is better to buy several graph paper sheets for such a task. In addition, you will need a ruler, tape measure, and a sharp pencil.

The sewerage scheme for a private house is drawn up in the following sequence:

First of all, you need to draw up a detailed plan of the house to scale. If you do not know the dimensions, then you will have to use a tape measure and measure everything carefully.

Next, you need to decide on the location of the risers.

Then on the plan you need to mark the location of the plumbing and decide how they will be connected.

Next, mark the pipes that will go from the riser and fittings to plumbing fixtures, and all the connecting elements (bends, tees, etc.).

All of the above should be done for all floors of a country house.

Now decide on the dimensions of the riser and the drain pipe.

Add down the entire length of the pipes that belong to the internal sewage system.

Another stage is external sewerage. It is necessary to draw up its diagram: the location of the pipes coming from the septic tank or deep cleaning station to the outlet. In this case, do not forget all the existing SNiPs.

Sewerage installation in a private house: the choice of pipes

For the reason that the conditions inside the house, as well as outside it, are significantly different, then the pipes for such sewage systems should be different. Today, PVC or PP pipes, characterized by a characteristic gray color, are usually used for laying internal sewerage systems. For risers and sun loungers, their diameter should be 110 mm, and for drainage - 40 and 50 mm. However, do not forget that such pipes are used exclusively for internal sewerage, and for external it is worth using other solutions.

Usually, pipes that are installed underground from a septic tank or deep cleaning station to the outlet are orange in color, which can be explained very simply - more noticeable in the ground is bright Orange color... But the pipes used for external sewage differ from others not only in the color itself, but also in the requirements that apply to them. They have high rigidity, since they bear a significant load.

More reliable designs are also offered, a striking example of which are two-layer corrugated pipes... But their laying depth, when maintaining the sewerage system, is usually small (usually up to two meters), so there is no need to use them. Most often, red pipes have a diameter of 110 mm, which is quite enough for wastewater disposal.

Below we will consider all the disadvantages and advantages of pipes made from different materials, among which the most used are:

Cast iron.

Advantages: durable and strong pipes, able to withstand high loads.

Disadvantages: heavy and brittle, expensive, on the inside, as a result of corrosion, roughness can form, which can cause blockages.

Polypropylene.

Advantages: flexible and lightweight, which makes them in high demand for indoor sewerage. They calmly cope with the high temperature of the runoff.

Disadvantages: if you use them for their intended purpose, then they have no disadvantages.

Polyvinyl chloride.

Advantages: similar to cast iron, lightweight and inexpensive. Most often used for outdoor sewerage.

Disadvantages: they do not tolerate the high temperature of wastewater, they are fragile (they crack, do not bend).

Sewerage installation in a private house: pipe laying

Perhaps the most difficult process during construction autonomous sewerage v country house is the wiring and laying of pipes. If you are going to perform these works on your own, then call someone for help, since this will affect not only the quality of the work, but also its speed. In addition, we advise you to check the tightness of the system by spilling it with water, and only then, when you are sure of the reliability of all seams, proceed to full-fledged operation.

Pipe connection

As mentioned earlier, the easiest option is to use PVC or PP pipes for sewage. Today, a huge number of products are offered on the construction market, so you can easily find revisions, elbows, tees and plastic pipes, which are easily and securely connected at the docking points, which is ensured by the presence of rubber cuffs. If necessary, all joints are additionally treated with plumbing sealant. Well, where the pipe goes through the ceiling and the wall, we recommend installing a sleeve.

Also, do not forget about the slope of the pipes. Taking into account SNiP, the angle of inclination of the pipe in a free-flow system directly depends on its diameter. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, you need to create a slope of less than 3 cm per 1 meter, and for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm - at least 2 cm per 1 meter. Please keep this in mind, as different points in the pipeline will have to be laid at different heights to achieve the required slope.

Sewer outlet

In order not to encounter a discrepancy with the external and internal sewage systems, you need to start the installation of the sewage system in a private house from the release (the border part of the sewer connecting the pipe that leads to the septic tank with the pipe coming out of the house).

The outlet must be installed through a foundation that exceeds the soil freezing depth corresponding to your region. Naturally, you can make the release even higher, but you will need to insulate the pipe so that it does not freeze in winter. If you do not do this, then there is a high probability that you will be able to use the toilet only in the spring, after warming.

If you did not take care of this during the construction of the foundation, then you will have to punch such a hole in its structure into which the branch pipe with a sleeve can easily fit. Moreover, the sleeve is a small piece of pipe with large diameter than the sewer (130-160 mm). It should protrude from both sides of the foundation by at least 15 cm.

Summarizing all of the above, we can say that at the current stage you need to make a hole in the foundation and insert a sleeve with a pipe into it. Remember that the diameter of the outlet pipe must be no less than the diameter of the riser. The sleeve itself is necessary in order for you to be able to set the required slope of the pipe in relation to the septic tank (2 cm by 1 m).

Layout and installation of a riser

It is good if the riser is in the toilet, since the recommended pipe size from the toilet to the riser is 100 mm. It can be mounted both openly and hidden, depending on how exactly the pipes will be located - in special boxes, channels, walls and niches or next to the wall (fastening with clamps, pendants, etc.).

To connect sewer pipes with risers, it is worth using oblique tees, and at the joints of pipes of different diameters, it is necessary to use adapters. At the intersection of pipes from sinks, shower and bathtub, you need to install a collector pipe with a diameter of 100-110 mm. At the same time, take care of water traps that protect the sense of smell from unpleasant odors.

On each riser, it is imperative to mount a special tee, with which you can clean the blockage. In order not to carry out work on cleaning the sewer in the future, install a sewer after each turn of the pipe.

Fan pipe outlet

It should be said right away that the conclusion and installation of the fan pipe plays an important role, since it is needed for:

maintaining normal atmospheric pressure inside the system so that air discharge and water hammer do not occur;
increasing the durability of the sewage system;
ventilation of the entire system, which is required for the efficient operation of the septic tank.

The fan pipe is an extension of the riser, that is, it is a pipe that leads to the roof. Before connecting the riser and the drain pipe, you need to perform an audit. Then you can lead the pipe to the attic at any convenient angle.

We do not advise to simplify the work by combining the fan pipe with ventilation or chimney. In addition, you need to locate its exit as far as possible from balconies and windows (at a distance of at least 4 m). Moreover, the height of the indentation from the roof should in no case be less than 70 cm. In addition, it is necessary to have the ventilation of the sewage system, ventilation of the house and the chimney at different levels.

Summing up everything that has been said above, the following can be noted:

at the first stage, we recommend developing a detailed wiring diagram, minimizing the distance from the plumbing to the riser;

it is necessary to increase the diameter of the pipes going to the riser, along the course of connecting other additional devices (exclude a decrease in diameter);

stick to one simple rule: the larger the outlet of the device, the closer it should be to the riser, respectively (the toilet should be located closest to the riser);

where blockages may form in the future, it is necessary to provide for cleaning and revisions;

in the distribution system for ventilation, there must be a fan pipe.

Installation of outdoor sewerage in a private house

You can equip an external sewage system in a country house with your own hands different ways which we'll talk about below. It is important to correctly choose a system that would fully meet the needs.

It is necessary to decide on the sewerage arrangement scheme taking into account the following factors:

permanent or temporary residence in a private house;
the number of people who live in the house for daily rent;
daily water consumption by one person (depending on the availability of a washbasin, washing machine, toilet, sink, bathtub, shower, etc.);
bedding level groundwater;
soil structure and type;
the size of your site around the house and how much space can be allocated for treatment facilities;
climatic conditions.

All sewerage systems for a private house can be divided into 2 types:

storage systems (cesspool without a bottom, sealed container);

structures used for wastewater treatment (aerotank - a septic tank with a constant air supply, a septic tank with a filtration field and three or two chambers, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank with natural purification and two overflow wells, a simple single-chamber septic tank with soil purification).

Cesspool without a bottom

A cesspool is the oldest and most proven method of installing a sewage system in a private house. Even 50 years ago, this method simply had no alternatives. True, then people did not use as much water as they do today.

A cesspool is the same well that has no bottom. In it, you can make walls from concrete rings, concrete, brick and other material, leaving the soil as the bottom. After sewage enters the pit from the house, relatively clean water, being purified, will seep into the soil, and fecal matter and organic waste will accumulate, gradually settling to the bottom. When the well is completely filled with solid waste, it must be cleaned.

Previously, waterproof walls were not made in the cesspool, which means that when it was filled, they simply buried it and dug a new hole in another place.

It should be borne in mind that it is possible to install a sewage system in a private house using a cesspool only when the volume of wastewater per day does not exceed 1 m 3. This is the only way soil microorganisms feeding on organic matter can manage to process water that will penetrate into the soil through the bottom of the pit. In this case, if this rate is exceeded by the volume of wastewater, the water will not receive the necessary treatment, which will provoke groundwater pollution. If this happens, then all water sources within a radius of 50 meters will be contaminated.

If you add microorganisms to the sump, it will reduce the unpleasant odor coming from it, and the cleaning process will be significantly accelerated. But be that as it may, you should not risk it.

Therefore, it is necessary to build a cesspool without a bottom only when the family does not live in a private house permanently, but happens only several times a week, without consuming a lot of water. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that groundwater must lie 1 m below the bottom of the pit, otherwise you will not be able to exclude contamination of the soil and water sources. The cesspool has a low price, but be that as it may, today it is not very popular in modern cottages and country houses.

Sealed container, presented in the form of a storage tank

In this case, next to the house, you need to install a special sealed container, where pipes will drain from the house. wastewater... You can buy a ready-made container, which will be made of plastic, metal or some other material. However, if necessary, you can make it from concrete rings with your own hands. The lid is most often made of metal, and the bottom is made of concrete. The main condition for the construction of such a sewage system is complete tightness. For this type of sewerage, you can use corrugated pipes pragma.

This container must be cleaned. As soon as it is completely full, you will have to call a sewer truck, which will not cost very much. The frequency of emptying the container directly depends on the volume of waste water and the size of the container. For example, if there are 4 people living in the house who use the toilet, washing machine, bath and shower, the volume of the storage tank must be at least 8 m 3, and it must be cleaned every 10-14 days.

Therefore, if there is a high occurrence of groundwater on your site, then it makes sense to use a sealed cesspool to equip the sewerage system at home. Thus, you can protect the soil and water sources from possible contamination.

But the main disadvantage of this system is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often. So think in advance about the place where the pit will be located in order to provide a convenient access to it. The bottom of the pit or container is not deeper than 3 meters from the soil surface, otherwise the hose will not be able to reach the bottom.

It is also important that the cover storage capacity was well insulated and the pipeline had good frost protection. The cost of this container directly depends on the volume and material from which it will be made. The cheapest option is to use used Eurocubes, and the most expensive is concrete pouring or brick. Do not forget about the monthly costs for cleaning the container.

Single-chamber septic tank - the simplest option for soil cleaning

It is worth noting that a single-chamber septic tank is not much different from a simple cesspool. Such a structure is a well, where the bottom is covered with an insignificant layer of rubble (not less than 30 cm), and coarse sand is covered with the same layer on top of it. Otherwise, sewage from the house flows through pipes into a well, where water seeps through gravel, sand and soil, clearing up to 50%. Naturally, sand and gravel greatly increases the quality of water purification, but does not fundamentally solve this problem.

In a private house, it is not recommended to build sewerage systems using a single-chamber septic tank if people live in the house permanently or in the case of a large volume of wastewater. You can use this option for temporary residence and a low level of groundwater. In addition, sand and crushed stone should be changed periodically, as they will silt.

Two-chamber septic tank - overflow settling wells

The construction of overflow settling wells and filtering wells is a fairly popular way of installing a sewage system in a private house. Moreover, this option is quite economical and can be installed independently.

Such a sewer system includes two wells: the first has a sealed bottom, and the second does not have one, but is sprinkled with sand and gravel.

Waste water from the house is fed into the first well, in which solid waste and feces sink to the bottom, and greasy ones float to the surface. Between these two methods, relatively clarified water is formed. Moreover, the first well is connected to the second with the help of an overflow pipe at about 2/3 of its height, which is under an insignificant slope, allowing water to flow quietly there.

Clarified water enters the second well, which subsequently seeps through the soil, crushed stone and sand, cleaning even better.

The first well is used as a sedimentation tank, and the second is used as a filtering well. The first well is filled with feces from time to time and you will need to call a special sewer truck to clean it. This should be done approximately every 6 months. To reduce unpleasant odors, add microorganisms to the first well that decompose feces.

The two-chamber septic tank described above can be made on your own from concrete, brick or concrete rings, or you can buy a ready-made plastic septic tank from the manufacturer, where additional cleaning will be performed using special microorganisms.

It is recommended to install a sewerage system in a private house on the basis of two overflow wells only when, even during floods, the groundwater level is below 1 meter from the bottom of the second well. If on the territory of your site there is sandy or sandy loam soil, then this will be an excellent option. However, do not forget that after about 5 years, the crushed stone and sand in the second ring will have to be replaced.

Biological or soil treatment - septic tank with a filtration field

This type of septic tank is made in the form of one container, which includes several separate containers that are connected by pipes or into two or three sections. As a rule, if you need to install this type of sewer system in a private house, you can buy a ready-made version.

The first tank of a septic tank is used for settling wastewater, as it happens in an ordinary settling well. The partially clarified water then flows into a second container or section, where all organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. Then more clarified water goes to filtration fields.

A rather wide area under the ground (about 30 m 2) acts as a filtration field. Primary wastewater treatment is carried out there. In this case, the water is purified by about 80%.

If there is sandy or sandy soil on your land plot, then this will be an excellent option, otherwise you will have to build an artificial filtration field from rubble and sand. Once water will pass filtration field, it will be able to collect in pipelines and go to drainage ditches or guide wells. It is forbidden to plant edible trees and vegetables above the filtration field, because in this case you will break a flower bed.

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Over time, the filtration can become silted and it will have to be cleaned, or rather to replace crushed stone and sand. This is a huge amount of work, which can damage your site.

Installation of a sewage system with a filtration field is suitable only when the groundwater is located at a depth of at least 2.5-3 m.At the same time, you must understand that there must be a distance of at least 30 m from the filtration field to water sources and residential buildings.

Septic tank with biofilter - natural cleaning station

Thanks to the deep cleaning station, it is possible to carry out a full-fledged installation of the sewage system in a private house. And this is despite the high level of groundwater.

This station acts as a capacity, which is divided into 3-4 sections. It is best to buy it from a trusted manufacturer, after checking with the professionals about the required volume and equipment. The cost of this septic tank usually starts at $ 1200, which is not cheap.

The first chamber of this septic tank is used to settle water, and in the second, organic residues are decomposed using anaerobic microorganisms. In the third, the separation of water takes place, and in the fourth, organic matter is decomposed by aerobic bacteria, which require a constant flow of air. To ensure such conditions, a pipe is installed above the chamber. It should rise 50 cm above the ground. A special filter is installed in the pipe leading from the third to the fourth chamber, into which aerobic bacteria are actually added. It turns out a kind of filtration field, but it is more miniature and concentrated.

Due to the small area of water movement and the high concentration of microorganisms, water purification is carried out even more efficiently (up to 90-95%). Such cleaning allows you to use water for watering the garden, washing the car and many other purposes.

From the fourth chamber there is a pipe leading either to the storage tank or to the drainage ditch.

For a private house where people live permanently, a septic tank with a biofilter is an excellent solution. Adding microorganisms to a septic tank is easy - you just need to pour them into the toilet. This cleaning station has no restrictions. Its advantages include the fact that it does not need electricity. The disadvantage is that it needs regular maintenance, since bacteria deprived of wastewater will simply die. If you add new bacteria, they will only work after 2 weeks.

Artificial cleaning stations - septic tank with forced air supply

This is an accelerated cleaning station where natural processes occur artificially. The device of a sewerage system in a country house with an aeration tank is impossible without supplying electricity to the septic tank, which is required for the air pump and connecting the air distributor.

Such a septic tank has 3 separate chambers or containers that are interconnected. Through the sewer pipe, water enters the first chamber, where it settles and solid waste precipitates. Then the partially purified water passes into the second chamber, which acts as an aeration tank, where activated sludge, consisting of microorganisms and plants, is mixed with water. All microorganisms and bacteria of activated sludge are aerobic, therefore forced aeration is extremely important for their life.

Then the water is mixed with sludge, goes into the third chamber, which is a deep purification sump. Then, using a special pump, the sludge is pumped back into the aeration tank.

Forced air supply provides fast wastewater treatment, and the water after cleaning can be used for various technical needs (washing a car, watering a vegetable garden, etc.).

Of course, the aeration tank will cost you quite a lot (from $ 3,700), but at the same time it is very useful. When installing sewers of this type, there are no restrictions. Among the number of disadvantages, it is worth noting only the need for electricity, constant maintenance so that bacteria do not die.

If there is a high level of groundwater on your site, then drawing a conclusion from everything written above, you can opt for several options:

septic tank with biofilter;

A few general rules for sewage in a private house

There are certain restrictions on the placement of the sewerage system.

Residential building location:

50 m from aeration treatment plants;
300 m from the drain wells and the station;
25 m from the filtering field;
8 m from the filtering well.

Septic tank location:

not less than 20-50 m from any water sources (well, well, reservoir);
not less than 10 m from the garden.

Before proceeding with the installation of the sewage system in a private house, you must make its project. You should not work without it, since the sewage system acts as such a system in which approximation is unacceptable. It is better to contact a design office or architects who will help create a high-quality project, taking into account the climate, operating conditions, soil and site. It is good if you do a sewerage project together with a house project before construction.

All work on the installation of the sewerage system is not difficult. You only need to properly dilute the pipes around the house, connect them to the manifold and bring them to the septic tank. For earthwork, you need to hire an excavator, although you can do it yourself. The main thing is the development of the project and right choice sewerage systems.

Separate design section engineering communications- planning of the sewerage system. Cottage owners and country houses often you have to independently deal with the drawing up of the diagram and the installation of equipment, so it is simply necessary to know the nuances of the organization of work.

The efficiency of the system largely depends on whether the sewerage wiring is done correctly in a private house - internal system pipes and equipment connected to them. For competent design, it is important to consider everything: from the choice of components to the material for the manufacture of individual elements. And we will tell you how to do it correctly.

Unlike the systems of electricity, gas, water supply, which are installed according to the documentation certified by certain authorities, the sewage system on your own land plot and in the house is allowed to equip without permits.

However, one cannot do without a project, as it will insure against errors associated with violation of generally accepted requirements.

For example, one of the most frequent violations is non-compliance with the boundaries of the sanitary zone during installation. drain pit... The supply and drain systems must not be in contact with each other.

The option of arranging communications in a private one-story house- external water supply and sewerage system are located on opposite sides of the building

The internal routing device is often associated with errors in the organization of ventilation, the wrong choice of pipe diameter or angle of inclination.

The construction of the axonometric diagram is usually carried out by specialists. They also make hydraulic calculations of the internal network and the main line located with outside building. Now there are more interesting option- creation of a sewer model in 3D format.

3D modeling programs allow you to draw up an accurate and complete project that makes it as easy as possible to select pipes, fittings, fasteners, as well as installation methods.

They turn to specialists for a project when they want to reduce risks. But there is another option - to study sanitary and technical standards, familiarize yourself with internal wiring diagrams, learn to understand the quality of plumbing equipment and draw up a project yourself.

Placement of important system nodes

The peculiarity of an autonomous sewage system is that the principles of its arrangement depend on each component in common system.

For example, the criterion for choosing a wastewater storage tank is not only the number of people living in the cottage, but also the number of connected sources of drainage of technical and utility water - from the house, garage, bathhouse, summer kitchen.

Work planning and scheme selection

The installation of sewer pipes is usually carried out together with the installation of a water supply system, respectively, and it is better to design these two systems together.

If you summarize all the documents that make up the project, and try to act according to the rules, you get the following list:

General data - description and conditions of installation of water supply and sewerage systems based on regulatory documents.
Explication of the premises (explanation to the diagram) indicating the wet zones and the method of their waterproofing.
Calculation of the volumes of water consumption and wastewater disposal taking into account the norms.
Floor plan for the location of the water supply system and axonometric diagram.
Floor plan for the location of the sewerage system.
Specification - a listing of all constituent elements with an indication of the quantity or footage.

You can refuse to install additional ventilation equipment, but provided that the private house is not higher than 2 floors, and the load on the sewer network is minimal.

If a lot of people live in the building, the number of bathrooms is more than 2, the drains are discharged into the treatment plant, then the installation of a fan pipe is required. Thanks to her, the atmosphere in the house will be healthy, and the water from the water locks will not disappear anywhere due to the pressure difference in the network.

Features of the wiring in a multi-storey building

The number of risers does not increase due to the presence of the 2nd or 3rd floors, but the connection diagram becomes more complicated, since taps are present on all floors. For multi-storey houses, there is a "code" set out in the SNiP documents.

How to properly make a sewer in a private house so that it will serve for many years? It is advisable to involve professionals in this issue, but if you have some skills, you can do everything yourself. Also, despite the fact that the basic requirements for the sewer system are individual, it is necessary to involve specialists in its design. Only compliance with all technological and technical standards will provide a private house with a high-quality drainage system.

What does the sewer system consist of?

How to make a sewage system in a private house, taking into account all the requirements normative documents in the construction industry? For a one-story or two-story building, it is necessary to make a system that will consist of the following components:

Ready-made or homemade septic tank (cesspool). Designed for storage and filtration of effluents. Set up outside the home and has a rather complex scheme.
Pipes for laying external sewerage. Any home septic tank must be connected to the building, which is carried out using these elements. Such pipes withstand temperature extremes well, are distinguished by increased strength and wear resistance, which allows them not to collapse under the pressure of water and soil.
Pipes and fittings for internal sewerage wiring. Consists of elements with a diameter of 40 to 110 mm. Fittings are also necessary for arranging the sewage system in the house, since with their help bends, revisions and turns are made out.
Thermal insulation for pipes. A sewage system in a private house with your own hands is impossible without modern heaters. With their help, pipes are insulated, which prevents them from freezing. Installation of pipe thermal insulation should be carried out not only outside the building, but also inside in unheated rooms (basement, basement of the building).

Varieties of septic tanks

When installing a sewage system for a country house, what to choose as a septic tank? There are many options for the device of this element of the system.

Cesspool without a bottom

The sewerage device in a country house using a cesspool has its advantages:

low cost. A cesspool is a kind of well that has no bottom. Its walls can be made of monolithic or prefabricated reinforced concrete, brick;
simple working principle. After the sewage enters the cesspool, clean water seeps into the soil, and solid waste settles at its bottom;
no difficulties during the installation of the structure. There is no need to carry out voluminous earthworks.

The disadvantages of this design scheme include that it is suitable only for those houses where the average daily volume of waste does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m. Otherwise, the surrounding soil and groundwater are polluted with household waste.

Hermetic tank

The sewerage system of a country house with your own hands can be formed from large-volume hermetic tanks, which are made of plastic, metal or other materials. They can be bought ready-made or made yourself. In this case, a sewerage project in a private house implies the use of prefabs. The bottom of such a septic tank will be formed of monolithic concrete, and the lid is made of metal.

The disadvantage of this design is that the container will fill up over time. After the accumulation of a certain amount of waste, it is necessary to call a special machine that pumps them out. The advantage of a sealed tank is that it can be used when there is a high level of groundwater.

Single chamber septic tank

Sewerage installation in a private house very often occurs using a single-chamber septic tank. It is a cesspool, the bottom of which is filled with rubble by 30 cm and sand at the same thickness. The advantage of this design is that the water, penetrating through the so-called "filtration field" is purified by about 50%.

Two-chamber septic tank

How to properly drain the drain to prevent contamination of the site with household waste? In this case, it is recommended to use a system of overflow settling wells.

The structure of such a sewage system in a private house includes two tanks. One of them is hermetic, the other is without a bottom, but sprinkled with a layer of rubble and sand.

Waste from the house goes into the first container. After a while, they defend themselves there. All solids sink to the bottom of the septic tank, and fat rises to the top. The waste in the middle is relatively clean. It is they who fall into the well without a bottom. This happens through a pipe that connects two tanks and is placed at a slight slope at the level of 2/3 of the height of the septic tanks.

Over time, too much waste is collected in the first well and needs to be pumped out. This should be done once every 5-6 months.

DIY septic tank

What is the easiest way to make a septic tank?

How can you make a sewer system in a private house with your own hands so that it works as efficiently as possible? First of all, you need to take care of the septic tank. To arrange a local sewage system in a private house, you should adhere to the following instructions:

Digging a pit. The dug hole should be of a size that slightly exceeds the dimensions of the tanks. It is necessary to count on the fact that a layer of rubble and sand should be poured at the bottom of the septic tank, and a clay castle should be equipped on the sides. If the sewage system for a country house is foreseen for a small number of people (1-3), then the pit can be dug manually. Otherwise, it is recommended to use the services of an excavator.
Arrangement of the base. When installing a sewage system in a private house, the bottom of the dug hole must be leveled, then covered with sand and tamped. On the site where the first tank (sump) will be installed, you need to install waterproofing. For this purpose, a clay or concrete disc should be used.
Installation of containers. The sewage system in a private house with your own hands should consist of two separate reservoirs, which are formed from concrete rings. In order for the system made to work efficiently, all joints must be sealed without fail. Such a sewerage scheme in a private house will exclude the ingress of effluents into the soil and groundwater.
Arrangement of the bottom of tanks. This sewerage scheme provides that the bottom of the first tank must be airtight. To do this, it is concreted, and the top is treated with bituminous mastic and a layer of roofing material is laid. Also, to build an effective sewer system, the bottom of the second well is covered with rubble or pebbles.
Overflow decoration. In order for the sewerage system of a country house to work correctly, the installed tanks must be connected to each other with an overflow pipe. It is installed at a distance of 1.5 m from the bottom. A T-fitting is also mounted on the pipe. It allows the intake of the liquid itself, which is separated from the organic matter.
Installation of overlap. For the device of a local sewerage system for a private house, reinforced concrete slabs are mounted on top of each tank.
Installation of hatches and ventilation. So that there is no unpleasant smell on the site, a ventilation pipe is installed in the overlap of the tanks. Also, each well is closed with hatches, which, if necessary, must be opened.

Laying pipes on the street

Should be carried out according to the following scheme:

Digging a trench. A small groove is made from the septic tank to the house. Its depth should be greater than the depth of freezing of the soil (the water supply is also being laid). When constructing a trench, it is necessary to provide a slope from the house to the storage tanks for a good outflow of liquid (about 2 cm 1 m).
Pipe laying. How to carry out the sewerage system in a private house, which pipeline to pick up? It is recommended to choose one that has a diameter of at least 110 mm.
Thermal insulation. If the pipes are laid shallowly, then they can be prevented from freezing by insulation.
The final stage. One end of the pipe is inserted through the concrete wall, carefully sealing the joints. Also, in order to carry out the installation of the sewage system in a private house with your own hands, you must not forget at the stage of its construction to leave a small hole in the foundation or basement. A pipe is introduced through it, after inserting a metal washer.

Internal network design rules

The device of the internal network is considered an important stage in the installation of a sewage system for a private house, how to do everything correctly? Do-it-yourself sewerage wiring in a private house occurs with the installation of the following structural elements:

riser. It is a central tube with a diameter of 110 mm and is installed vertically. It connects all the existing circuits in the house together. For a small building, one riser is usually enough;
... Installed on the top of the riser. Such a pipe is necessary for branching into environment accumulated gases;
trunk branches. Pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are used to connect plumbing fixtures with a riser. This system does not have forced circulation, therefore, it is necessary to provide for drainage (3 cm by 1 m);
supply pipes. They are used to connect outlets of devices with highways;
revisions. They are a tee, where one branch is closed by a hatch. Revisions are necessary to carry out repair and maintenance work of various kinds. They are usually installed at all bends, branches, at the base and at the end of the riser.

If you adhere to this scheme for the device of the sewer system, it will work efficiently and without failures.

Living in your private house without a sewer will be at least uncomfortable.

As a rule, its installation takes place at the construction stages. There are exceptions, though.

And the sewage system for a private house, as the masters correctly note, is arranged more often after the construction of the building.

Schemes and types

In large houses with many rooms (bathrooms, toilets, kitchen, etc.), a scheme with at least two septic tanks is usually used.

If it is possible to join the central sewer system, then this must be done, despite the subsequent impressive fees.

If not, you will have to build an autonomous sewage system.

Internal sewerage: scheme and specifics

When creating a project, you need to take into account the premises that need sewage. They are located in one location on each floor. With this layout, it is easier to lay pipes. Although a personal project is created for each house.

You can create a scheme here yourself. Of course, this will not be a professional and detailed development, as in the case of specialists. But acting competently, you will use it to lay a pipeline and decide on the required amount of equipment and materials.

A house plan is a must here. Identify the positions for the sewerage pipeline (TK), riser (s) and all plumbing fixtures. On the diagram, indicate the fittings for the pipeline and the distance from these elements to the riser and plumbing fixtures. Decide on the right amount of connecting components. This work is done on every floor.

Advice: be sure to calculate how many pipes of different diameters and connecting components are needed.

Required diameters:

For a riser or TK, as well as an outlet block for draining wastewater coming from the bathroom - 10-11 cm.
A 5 cm pipe is used for drains from the kitchen and bathroom.
Turns in the sewer should be done with two knees. Their position angle is 45 °. This will help prevent blockages.

Material

Usually these are pipes made of cast iron, polypropylene or PVC. The former are considered standard. They cope with impressive loads. Their durability and reliability are amazing.

But today, products from the other two specified materials are getting more and more fame. Their cost is more attractive, and installation is much easier.

Polypropylene products are purchased very often. Buyers love their flexibility and modest weight, and their resistance to high temperatures Wastewater.

It's important to know: it is worth noting that PVC and polypropylene products are placed only inside the house. Cast iron counterparts can be laid outside.

Pipes made of all these materials, with proper operation, will last a very long time.

Views

Usually, the sewerage system, according to the method of operation, is divided into mixed and separate. Most often, the first type works in private houses.

Types of sewerage systems according to the wastewater disposal method: gravity and pressure. The second requires colossal costs and efforts. Therefore, the popularity of the former is much higher.

Thus, in private houses usually a mixed gravity sewage system is arranged.

Mounting

To work, you definitely need an assistant. Work takes place with polypropylene pipes... Their diameters are 5 and 10 cm. Other necessary things: revisions, tees and elbows, as well as sleeves, clamps for fastening these pipes, rubber cuffs, glue.

Sleeves are placed on those areas where the system crosses walls or floors. Rubber cuffs are applied to the connection areas. And there is a powerful insulation made with plumbing sealant.

Pipes are laid with some bias. These are the requirements of SNiP. For this case, the slope is 2-3%. It is largely determined by the diameter of the pipe. The percentage here is the slope calculated in cm / 1 shoulder strap. meter. For pipes with a more modest diameter, the slope is 3%. Only by observing this rule, you can qualitatively mount a working internal sewage system.

And also a slope of less than 2% and more than 3% is unacceptable. In the first layout, solid elements will remain on the walls of the pipes, a blockage will form. In the second case, the flow streams in these pipes will pick up too high a speed, and the wastewater will be divided into fractions, and the solid elements will settle.

To connect such pipes, glue or rubber seals are used.

For your information: for work, you will also need a soldering iron and a perforator.

The work starts from the outlet - the area where the internal and external sewerage systems converge. With this beginning, you will not allow these systems to mismatch. Installation of the outlet goes through the foundation. If it is carried out at a depth inferior to the depth of freezing of the soil in your area, then the pipe is necessarily insulated. Otherwise, the release will freeze, and the sewerage system will be able to work only in warm weather.

If there is no outlet hole in the foundation, you need to arrange it.

The required diameter of the sleeve is 13 cm. The sleeve protrudes from each side of the base by at least 15 cm. The hole and installation of the sleeve goes with a slope of 2% for external sewage, next to the septic tank. The diameter of the outlet must be the same as the diameter of the riser.

The best position for the riser is the bathroom. So the outlet section for eliminating drains from the toilet will be short. The following tendency is at work here: the larger the diameter of the outlet section and the plumbing. device, the closer its position is to the riser.

The laying method is a personal matter. You can make a gasket in boxes, in walls, you can work on open way... For the installation of pipes with a riser, oblique tees are used. If there is a point in your circuit where the outlets from the shower, bath and sink converge, then the installation of a collector pipe is needed there. Its diameter is 10 cm.

Install water traps to protect your home from bad odors. The revision must be installed on each riser. Each turn of the sewer must end with a cleaning. So, if the sewer is blocked, it will be easier to clean it.

The riser continues upward in the form of a fan pipe. First, a revision is placed at the point of its installation. Then this pipe is brought out to the roof. Its combination with home ventilation is not allowed.

The exit must necessarily exceed the ridge of the roof, at least 70 cm from the roof and at a distance of 4 m from the windows. Ventilation, chimney and the waste pipe itself must differ in height.

Having assembled the internal sewage system, it must be thoroughly spilled with clean water. This is how the tightness of all joints is tested.

External sewerage

Such a sewage system is a pipe network from the outlet block to a septic tank or a treatment station. The pipes are laid here in the ground.

The pipes must have impressive rigidity and withstand the impact of the soil. And it is also better to lay pipes bright color so that you can see them more easily in depth. The diameter of such pipes is 11 cm.

There is different types external ventilation. The most primitive are cesspools and storage systems where waste water is collected. Today, more and more preference is given to various septic tanks and total cleaning stations.

Two-chamber septic tank

Types of septic tanks:

Two-chamber.
Three-chambered.
With biofilter.
With one chamber and soil purification.

The septic tank is selected based on:

The needs of all residents of the house.
The number of these tenants.
Type of residence: permanent or temporary.
Estimated water consumption. This is how much water each tenant spends on a daily basis. The number of plumbing fixtures in the house and whether there are household appliances there is also important here.
The groundwater level in your area.
The parameters of the territory itself. The areas for the treatment equipment are calculated here.
Soil type.
The climate in your area.

System example:

Which septic tank or purification station you buy is also a matter of your budget. And also here it does not hurt to consult with specialists.

It is also important to consider here some criteria regarding the location of such equipment:

The garden and the septic tank must be separated by at least 8 m.
Any water source and septic tank are separated by at least 20 m.
A residential building and a septic tank are separated by at least 5 m.

The main dilemma in the organization of external sewerage is a competent choice of treatment technology. Excavation and installation are not particularly difficult.

As for the general scheme of external sewerage, then it necessarily includes:

a system of trays where waste is concentrated;
channels for waste disposal to the point of disposal;
sump (cesspool).

Algorithm for installing external sewerage:

Trench creation. It connects the house waste water to the sump. Trench slope: 2 cm / 1 m pipe in the direction of the sump.
The bottom of the trench is covered with a sand cushion. Layer -10-15 cm.
A pipeline is laid along this cushion close to the storage tank.
The docking point of the pipe with the septic tank is sealed: the pipe is laid along the oval of the cords. The cord is treated with grease.

Requirements for sewerage in a private house

For installation, use materials of the required parameters.
Make a diagram taking into account all the necessary factors.
Do not use poor quality pipes.
Do not litter the sewer system with heavy waste.
Design the drainage system at the same time as the design of the house itself.
Install sewers during the construction stages. This is the best option. If it has not been observed, the methods of solution have already been described above.

How to make a sewer in a private house, see the tips in the following video:

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