An extension to the house made of shell rock. Extension to the house - how to quickly and inexpensively make from available materials

Constructing a new residential building is an expensive and somewhat risky undertaking. Another issue is the expansion of the existing building in order to increase the usable area. Attach an extra room to country house or a cottage will cost significantly less than building everything from scratch. But this does not mean that designing and assembling a new room is a simple matter; you will encounter a lot of pitfalls on your way. In order to avoid mistakes, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the recommendations on how to make an extension to the house with your own hands and at minimal cost.

What to make an extension

To answer this question, you have to tackle the design, which begins any construction. Sketch the plan of the old building in compliance with the scale, locate the addition room and plot it on the drawing. After thinking about the interior layout of the new part, you can accurately determine its dimensions. Draw a side view to see how much headroom you have in terms of roof slopes.

An important point. Careful drawing and verification with real dimensions on site will allow you to avoid unpleasant mistakes associated with the dimensions of the part being erected, its height, and especially with the slope of the roof. The minimum angle of the roof slope is 8 °, you cannot do less, otherwise leaks will appear after showers and snowfalls.

A full-fledged project should provide material for the construction of an extension. His choice depends on the purpose of the new premises:

A full-fledged room with access to the hallway, equipped with heating and other communications - a bedroom, a kitchen, a bathroom or a toilet. This is a capital structure built of bricks, aerated concrete, foam blocks and their combinations. Timber also works well - beams and logs.
Light outbuildings - a veranda, an open terrace, a vestibule or a porch with a polycarbonate awning. It is better to build such premises on a frame made of wood or metal structures, sheathed with OSB plates with subsequent finishing. Greenhouse and winter Garden made of glass.
An outbuilding to the house - a barn, a garage, a boiler room. These structures are both capital and light, the choice of material depends on your desire and capabilities. Common options are cinder block, shell rock, and wood. A more progressive solution is sandwich panels with insulation on a rolled metal frame.
A separate question is what to make an extension to the balcony from apartment building on the first floor. The answer is simple: to brick wall the same partition must be adjacent so that the structure does not fall out of the exterior of the building. Near panel house you can use any stone blocks, but then they will have to be finished in the color of the surrounding walls.

Note. Regarding the building materials used, not requirements are listed, but recommendations. You are free to make an extension at your discretion, for example, build a brick structure near log house... But such solutions are more difficult to implement, and most importantly, more expensive.

How to make a foundation for an extension

For attached premises, 4 types of bases are used, depending on the weight of the structure and the quality of the soil:

columnar - for lightweight structures on a wooden frame;
pile-screw foundation is used on subsiding soils for the installation of structures made of wood and metal with a small mass;
tape - for heavy stone buildings;
A reinforced concrete monolithic slab is poured over the entire area of the attached part, erected from bricks or blocks on unstable soils.

Example of a columnar base made of concrete

Advice. Modern frame houses are increasingly being installed on screw piles. If this is your case, then the choice of the base is obvious - a pile-screw foundation, it is pointless to use another type.

Solid concrete slab it is used quite rarely due to its high cost, and it is better to entrust the screwing of screw piles to professionals in this field. To build a light veranda yourself or summer gazebo, a columnar base device is recommended. For brickwork or walls made of gas blocks, it is better to pour concrete tape, we will consider these 2 methods further.

Traditional strip foundation

Columnar base

A properly made foundation of this type is cheaper than tape and is well suited for light structures. Its device begins with marking the site and marking the installation points of the future vertical racks of the frame. The pillars, and therefore the soles for them, should be placed in 1.5 m increments, as shown in the diagram.

The further procedure is as follows:

Dig square holes 50 x 50 cm in size at the designated points, deepening by 70-80 cm. The task is to put a support on solid, stable soil, so the bottom of the pit must be tamped.
Add 15 cm of sand or fine gravel and compact again. Pour the platform out of concrete M150 at the bottom, and after hardening, cover with roofing material in 2 layers (waterproofing).
Lay out the 38 x 38 cm square pillars of red ceramic brick to the required height.
Apply a bituminous primer to the walls of the posts or glue a weld-on waterproofing. Lay roofing material again on the top of the support.
Cover the sinuses around the foundation with earth and lightly tamp.

Reference. The foundation pillars for the frame extension can be cast from M200 concrete, but then you will have to put the formwork and knit the reinforcing mesh.

Strip foundation device

Under the base of this type, you need to dig a trench along the contour of the future room, which is shown below in the photo. The width of the ditch should be 15 cm larger than the thickness of the brick or foam block wall. The depth depends on the location of the stable soil layer and ranges from 50-100 cm. The walls of the pit must be cleaned up, and the bottom must be tamped and filled with a sand cushion 100 mm thick.

Advice. When digging a trench, focus on the depth of the foundation of a private house (if it is reinforced concrete or block). The rubble foundations of very old dwellings can be buried less, so you should not be equal to them.

The order of work is as follows:

Compact the poured sand and install a wooden panel formwork with external supports and internal braces (it is possible from studs with nuts), which do not allow the sides to move under the weight of the concrete. The height of the formwork is not lower than the basement level of the existing building.
Tie or weld corrugated reinforcement frames with a diameter of 8-12 mm to obtain 10 x 15 cm cells. Install them in the trench on supports 50 mm high.
Prepare concrete mix M150 in the following proportions: cement M400 - 1 part, dry sand - 3 parts, crushed stone with a fraction of up to 40 mm - 5 volumes.
Perform layer-by-layer pouring of the strip foundation to the height of the base of the house. It is highly desirable to compact the concrete with special vibrators (rent).
Remove the formwork after 7 days, and continue work after 3 weeks, when concrete mix hardens.

Advice. To prevent the concrete from losing milk during pouring and subsequently not absorbing moisture, before installing the reinforcing cages, cover the trench with formwork with plastic wrap.

If you want to make the extension warm initially, then after the foundation has solidified, insulate it from the outside with polystyrene foam, or better with penoplex. Lay drainage along the bottom of the ditch and fill the sinuses with soil, then pour the blind area with insulation, as shown in the diagram. For an unheated extension, treat the base with bitumen or glue waterproofing (for example, from the well-known brand Technonikol). Lay the roofing material on top of the base in 2 layers and start forming the floors. You will learn about all stages of work by watching the video:

Installation of floors

The first stage of building an extension to the house with your own hands is the device of floors, which are of 2 types:

flooring on wooden logs;
cement strainer.

Note. On a columnar foundation, floors can be built only on logs, and on a strip foundation - any to choose from.

The wooden floors of the extension are made using the following technology:

Lay wooden lintels on the brick posts - beams with a minimum section of 10 x 15 cm and secure them with anchors. On the corner supports, join them in half a tree (how to do this is shown in the photo). Fasten the bars together with steel corners on self-tapping screws.
Set the lags in the same way.
If insulation is not required, then lay a sub-floor of 40 mm thick planks.
To insulate the floors, nail the cranial bars to the bottom of the log, lay boards and insulation with vapor barrier on them. Then add sub-floors.

An example of connecting beams in a half-tree

For the screed device, the space inside the strip foundation is covered with earth, compacted with watering. Fill the top with expanded clay to a height of 20-30 cm and fill the screed. Let it harden for 2-3 days and move on to building the walls.

Erection of the walls of the extension

The order of construction of an open veranda or porch depends on the project and design of the building. But in any case, the installation begins with the installation of vertical racks and bundling them together with horizontal bridges. Most often used here wooden bar 10 x 15 cm or steel shaped pipes section 80 x 60 mm, or 60 x 60 mm.

Reference. Builders frame houses another technology is practiced: the wall sections are assembled entirely on the ground, and then they are lifted and attached to the foundation and to each other.

It is better to dock the beams in half a tree or in a groove with fixation with steel corners on self-tapping screws, as shown in the diagram. From above, the pillars are united by a horizontal beam, where the roofing rafters will subsequently form. The ends of this lintel are securely attached to the wall of your home. The cold extension can be immediately revetted with OSB (OSB) boards, which will allow the frame to be toughened up. The heated room will need to be insulated with 100 mm thick mineral wool. For more information on the construction of frame walls, see the video:

The main walls of the extension are erected from bricks or blocks according to all masonry rules - with bandaging the seams and checking the vertical. The first row fits around the entire perimeter, and then you need to form the corners by raising them by 4-5 rows. Next, a wall is built to the same height, after which the action is repeated.

Advice. Tie brick or block masonry to the walls of the house by drilling holes through 2-3 rows and inserting reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm into them.

Roof installation

As a rule, the roof of the extension is made on wooden beams, supported by the existing wall of the house and the new partition. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

Anchor to the building wall a horizontal plank with a thickness of at least 50 mm to support the rafters. In a stone annex, lay the same planks over the walls and secure them.
Install the rafters from a 15 x 5 cm board (minimum cross-section) with a step of 600 mm to the size of the slab insulation. Screw them to the supports using steel corners and self-tapping screws.
Spread the waterproofing membrane over the beams - a diffusion membrane with an overlap of 10 cm and nail it to the rafters with strips.
Install a roof covering - slate, metal or corrugated board. In order for the water to drain properly from the roof, the slate must be brought under the roof overhang of your house.

Simple rafter system of a wooden extension

If necessary, insulate the roof of the extension by inserting mineral wool slabs between the beams. Tap the insulation from below with a vapor barrier film and sew it up with facing material. More information about installing the roof of the extension is described in the video:

Conclusion

All work on the construction of an extension to the house is best done with an assistant, many operations alone are inconvenient to perform. You can cope with a one-story building without any problems, you just need to set aside time. Do not forget to treat the wood with an antiseptic composition and paint it well so that the frame of the veranda or porch will serve for many years.

Design engineer with over 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from the East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dahl with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

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Over time, private structures need to be enlarged for completely different reasons. For example, an increase in the number of people living, equipping a house with a sewage system or a desire to fence front door from direct exposure to cold air. Because of this, there is a need for another room, or the expansion of the kitchen area, bathroom, or just an extension of the veranda. Frame extension- this is what you need.

Frame extension to wooden house

Building a frame extension is an excellent solution to the problem with the need to expand the area. The do-it-yourself extension to the house is usually made of timber, brick or in a connected version. In order not to have to make changes, it is best to initially think over all the features of the structure, because each one needs an individual approach.

Additional living room

If there is a need to add another room, you need to try, because all these actions are tantamount to building a small house.

If planned living room, then it is necessary to insulate it, carry out heating, internal and external decoration

The entire building must be insulated, otherwise the heating carried out will be absolutely useless. It is also necessary to carry out waterproofing so that there is no problem with dampness and fungus.

Bathroom or kitchen

Before installing the foundation, engineering communications are brought to the construction site. Sometimes it is necessary to carry out a separate water supply system.

In addition, it is necessary to pay attention to the insulation of absolutely all the details of the building and to think over a thorough waterproofing of the floor in advance.

Veranda

A simple structure, which is built to protect the front entrance to the structure from rain and wind, and is also used in the summer season.

An extension to the house can be in the form of a veranda

It can be closed or open. This building does not need special insulation, however, waterproofing is mandatory in any case.

Construction project creation

In the case when there is a large area on the site, then there will be no problems with the construction of the extension, even if all the work is planned to be done by hand. In order not to be mistaken with the required outbuilding area, it is imperative to draw up a thorough plan.

First, design the extension in the program or on a sheet of paper, calculate the costs

Here are some basic tips to consider when planning:

Determine exactly the purpose of the extension. This will not necessarily be a living area, it is likely that a person needs a veranda, a garage, or just a separate place like a personal office-workshop. All subsequent nuances of construction work will directly depend on this choice: the volume of materials, area, number of openings and much more.
Another circumstance can be called the presence of communications in the projected construction site.
In addition to the number of materials, you also need to know their type. Thus, it will be possible to calculate the cost of future construction and take care of the quality, which affects the service life.

Thus, an annex from a bar needs a foundation corresponding to that which is available under the main structure. If the house was erected with his own hands, then the owner of the building knows exactly what the basis is. Therefore, it will not be particularly difficult to do such a thing.

The main nuances that you need to know:

the size of the foundation and the depth of the laying of the base;
material and the right decision.

As a result, it will be necessary to tie the erected foundation to the existing one. After this stage, walls can be erected. When the owner of the house does not have any information about the foundation, then research is carried out to help choose the material and installation. Having poured the foundation, you need to wait about 30 days for it to harden and become strong. Individual attention should be paid to the joints of only the made base to the old one.

The pile foundation can be made even in winter.

You can make a pile element, its installation is not associated with already built ones.

Erection of the walls of the extension

After the foundation is ready, they begin to equip the walls - 3 walls, because the 4th is already there, the one to which the room is attached. However, there are also such options when 2 walls are enough, it all depends on the design of the building. An extension to a wooden house is usually not difficult at all. Metal plates and other specialized parts are used as fasteners.

The cake of the wall of a frame house is not much different from the wall of an extension, if it is a living room

If the additional area is from a bar, then you need to take into account that the size of the material should not be less than 200 by 200 millimeters, in the event that it is planned permanent residence... It is required to know that the timber is a rather heavy material, and subsequently it shrinks. Only at the end of this process is it possible to qualitatively and firmly fix the new building to the house itself.

In relation to the time required for shrinkage, this is about a year, or a little more. The duration of this period is influenced by the area of the extension, the quality of the material, as well as the condition of the structure to which the extension was made. The main rule in this matter is not to rush.

The frame of the shield is slightly susceptible to shrinkage if the used timber has been dried to the required level

At the end of the shrinkage, the originally supplied fasteners are removed and fixed in a new place. During the precipitation period, the structure should be insulated with felt, cotton wool, or some other material.

To lead construction works possible all year round, in winter prices for building materials and work are several times cheaper

To improve the quality of thermal insulation and give a good appearance to the joints, a special element made of wood is used. At the moment of shrinkage, it may shift slightly, so there is a need to remove and reinforce it again.

Do not forget about the roof to the extension, it can be made as a continuation of the roof of the house, flush with the wall or with an overhang - all at the discretion of the owner or designer

When the size of the house is increased, the issue of roofing arises. Everything happens in the usual way according to standard technology. The approximate order of execution of the roof is as follows:

First of all equip rafter system... Do not forget about compliance with all load characteristics.
At the end of the installation of the rafters, they proceed to create the lathing, use bars and slats. Instead of this design, a solid flooring is sometimes performed - boards or plywood are suitable as a building material.
Facing the pediments.
Eaves filing.
Installation of wind elements.
Directly installing the roof. The material is chosen independently, based on the personal taste of the owner of the house.

Next - floor, ceiling and other internal Finishing work... Installation of openings is not particularly difficult. If the extension to a wooden house is made of the same material, then other details are best done using lumber.

Features of the construction of the extension

Consider the important advice of builders who are experienced specialists in this field:

Actions with the tree must be performed during the cold season. When work is carried out at such times, the weather tends to reduce the shrinkage time.
Thermal insulation of a timber structure is most expedient inside. So neat is kept appearance the buildings. You can also save a lot on the amount of insulation material.
It should not be forgotten that an extension to a wooden house needs to be coated with an antibacterial agent that has protective characteristics against the effects of moisture. Refractory processing is a must in this type of construction.
It is best if the number of metal fasteners is minimized. With all this, it is worth stopping at galvanized ones. This is very important in order to protect the wooden house extension from corrosion.

A frame extension, the construction of which takes place rather quickly, can be erected by anyone.

The extension can be decorated in the general style of the facade of the house and externally will not stand out

An extension to a wooden house, if all standards are met, will last a long time, and it will not be difficult to build it.

5919 0 0

Vacation home is rarely associated with convenience and comfort. For some reason, a rickety toilet booth and a galvanized washing trough come to mind. And it is completely in vain: it is not a problem to build a comfortable bathroom and a convenient toilet in the cottage. I will try to describe the solutions to a number of problems that arise at different stages of construction in this article.

Construction

How to attach a bathroom to a house - stone or frame?

Let's break this question down into a few less global ones.

Foundation

How to tie the foundation of the extension to the base of the house?

As a rule, private houses, depending on the type of soil and the mass of the walls, are built on strip, columnar or pile foundations. In the case of a strip foundation, the problem of connecting the foundations of the extension and the main structure will inevitably arise. This problem has two possible solutions:

the extension is connected to the strip foundation of the house with thick (14 - 16 mm) reinforcement. It is pulled through holes drilled in the concrete. Such a reinforcement scheme excludes deformation of the walls of the extension during soil subsidence;

It makes sense to build a common foundation on stable soils and after complete shrinkage of the house. If the soil is mobile and the shrinkage has not yet been completed, it is better to prefer separate bases.

The second option is the construction of an independent foundation. It is laid to the same depth as the base of the house, leaving an expansion joint between the foundations, filled with any elastic material (for example, glued mineral wool). This arrangement allows, among other things, the use of foundations different types(say columnar and striped).

What can be used to make a foundation?

In Crimea, where I live, the most popular solution is monolithic strip foundations made of concrete grades M250 - M300. Typical deepening is about 30 - 40 centimeters, the height of the foundation above the ground level is 25 - 30 cm.

On heaving soils in regions with cold winters, the foundation should be buried below the freezing level. In the regions of the country with permafrost, strip foundations are not at all held in high esteem: as a rule, houses are built on piles.

Walls

What to build bath walls from?

The material of the walls is dictated by both local prices for building materials and the type of walls of the main building. Agree that a brick bathroom will look rather strange in a log house. I will list the most popular solutions in my region:

Frame building with filling of cavities with mineral wool and 10 mm thick OSB sheathing. The frame is rigidly tied to the walls of the house with galvanized corners or anchors;

The walls are made of shell rock, a local sedimentary rock. Due to its porous structure, it retains heat well, but does not have high mechanical strength. In order for the extension to be rigidly connected to the house, a reinforced concrete armored belt is being built, tied to the walls of the main structure with reinforcement laid in the holes in them;
In recent years, aerated concrete has noticeably displaced shell rock due to the ideal geometry of the blocks. The walls folded from it do not require compulsory leveling with plaster;
Finally, the time-tested classics - logs and beams - also did not leave the building materials market anywhere. In this case, an expansion joint filled with mineral wool or other insulation remains between the walls of the extension and the house.

Do you need wall insulation?

It all depends on the climatic zone and the materials used in the construction. If the extension is built of aerated concrete blocks and is operated in Yakutia or Chukotka, the heat loss through the walls without insulation will be unreasonably large. On the other side, frame walls 100 mm thick filled with mineral wool will provide sufficient thermal insulation in most of the country.

Roof

What should be the roof structure of a bathroom attached to the house??

All the annexes I saw in Crimea had a pitched roof, laid on wooden beams... The beams can rely on the Mauerlat anchored to the armored belt, but much more often they are simply waterproofed and laid in the upper part of the walls.

How to block the roof of the extension?

In my opinion, in the middle price range, the most attractive material is professional sheet. It was this that I used when building the attic roof in my house. Here are the reasons for it:

Low price square meter(from 150 rubles with a sheet thickness of 0.4 mm);
Acceptable strength, allowing the roof to withstand the weight of an adult;
Durability. The service life of the profiled sheet is estimated at at least 30 years.

In fairness, it is worth mentioning a couple of shortcomings of the material:

The roof will make a noticeable noise in the rain;
For small slopes (less than 15 degrees), the overlaps along the length must be additionally sealed with silicone. Unlike metal tiles, the profiled sheet does not have a transverse wave, which excludes water infiltration.

With a small extension, the roof, as a rule, is completely covered with one row of sheets.

When installing the profiled sheet on top of the beams, a lathing made of a board with a thickness of 30 - 40 mm with a step of 0.5 meters is laid, a vapor-permeable waterproofing and a counter-lattice - a lath with a thickness of 20 mm. The counter grill creates a ventilation gap that prevents the accumulation of condensate and decay of the roof frame.

How to insulate the roof of an attached bathroom?

Plates of glued mineral wool are laid in the gaps between the beams or roof rafters. From below they are hemmed with a vapor barrier film. Then a rough ceiling is constructed from a board 25 mm thick, to which a plasterboard sheet, plastic or any other material of the final ceiling is attached to it.

Floors

What to make a bathroom floor?

The typical subfloor is wooden beams. As a rule, cranial bars are sewn onto their lateral surfaces, on which a 25 mm thick board and insulation are successively laid. From above, the insulation is covered with waterproofing, after which a rough floor is laid from a plank 40-50 mm thick (depending on the pitch between the beams).

With a large distance from the beam to the beam, it is more profitable not to increase the thickness of the floorboards, but to lay transverse logs under them with a step of 30-50 cm.

Typical bathroom flooring is tiled. Laying it on a wooden base deserves a special talk. When building a bathroom in the attic, I solved this problem like this:

An OSB sheet 15 mm thick was screwed to the lags with self-tapping screws;
On top of it is laid a cement-bonded particle board with a thickness of 24 mm. To prevent deformation of the floor, the board is glued to the base on polyurethane foam and pulled in with self-tapping screws through holes pre-drilled in it;
The seams of the cement-bonded particle board are filled with mortar;
A tile is laid on top of the DSP. For its sticker, I used Ceresit CM 17 tile adhesive.

The bathroom is used very neatly, so I did without additional waterproofing of the floor. In general, it is useful, for waterproofing it is easiest to use dense polyethylene laid between the base layers.

Decoration Materials

What and how the bathroom can be finished frame house with your own hands?

For cladding the frame, plywood or OSB are usually used. The main finishing material for the bathroom is tiles: it combines absolute resistance to moisture with exceptional strength, allowing you to clean walls with any aggressive and abrasive detergents, and durability.

The main problem is to stick the tiles on OSB or plywood. Here are two solutions:

Use silicone sealant instead of tile adhesive. It is applied in dots or strips to the edges and in the middle of each tile, after which it is rubbed against the wall with a couple of sliding movements. The preliminary priming of the walls is not necessary, it is enough just to thoroughly clean them of dust.

Seams are filled with the same sealant. In the assortment of many manufacturers there are colored silicone grout for tiles;

I used regular transparent silicone to fill the joints. The base can only be seen through the seam in bright light and point-blank.

Sheathe the walls with moisture-resistant plasterboard or gypsum plasterboard. The seams do not need to be putty: they will still be covered with tiles. In this case, any cement-based adhesive can be used to install the tiles.

When finishing the bathroom in the attic, I used another material - rubber paint. This is a common water emulsion based on acrylic latex, which, after drying, gives a full-fledged waterproofing coating. It can be washed and cleaned with any non-abrasive product.

It is advisable to provide at least one light window in the walls of the bathroom. To protect against immodest looks from the outside, it is usually placed under the ceiling. I used metal-plastic window with double glazing without opening doors.

Plumbing

Which bath is better to buy - cast iron, steel or acrylic?

V different time I have had occasion to use all three types of bathtubs. These are the impressions they left behind.

Material	Peculiarities
Cast iron	The significant mass of the bath makes it difficult to install, but increases its stability. The bath heats up slowly and cools down slowly. Water intake is practically silent: massive walls do not resonate
Steel	As long as the seam between the wall and the rim is not repaired, the steel tub remains unstable. Sitting on the side, you can turn it over. The bottom is noisy when collecting water. The deformation of the bottom under the weight of the owner may well cause enamel chips.
Acrylic	A lightweight bathtub requires an obligatory fixing to the wall, which makes it relatively difficult to install. Acrylic is afraid hard blows, therefore, it is better not to place shelves with household chemicals and cosmetics. The surface gets dirty easily; for cleaning, you can use acidic and alkaline cleaning agents (Whiteness, Domestos, etc.)

I currently have installed acrylic bathtub... The choice was dictated by two considerations:

Savings. A cast iron bathtub of comparable size cost three times the price;
The ability to choose a form that is convenient for me. Triangular and asymmetrical cast iron baths, apparently, are not produced in principle, and acrylic - as much as necessary.

How to place the bath - horizontally or with a slope?

Place the bath on legs so that its sides are horizontal, and check the level of the bottom slope. If it is able to provide a drain of water to the outlet, the bath can be left in this position. If the bottom is also horizontal, the side farthest from the outlet will have to be raised.

How to seal the seam between the bathroom and the wall?

If the walls are even, it is enough to fill the seam. silicone sealant... With a significant thickness of the seam under the bath shelf, you will have to first glue a strip of foam or nail a thin strip. The obstacle will prevent the silicone from sliding down under its own weight.

A few nuances:

The seam is filled with silicone to the full depth. It will not only ensure tightness, but also reliably fix the edge of the bath. This is especially important if the latter is made of steel or acrylic;
Do not be too lazy to pre-protect the tile and the shelf of the bathtub with strips of masking tape. It will be quite difficult to remove the set sealant from their surface;
With a small seam thickness, it is better to use not white, but transparent sealant... For some reason unknown to me, it is not affected by the fungus, while white silicone often turns black after several years of operation.

In the case of uneven walls, the gap between the wall and the bathroom is closed with a plastic corner. It is better to glue it on the same sealant. Silicone is applied not to the corner itself, but to the wall and shelf of the bathtub: this way there is less chance of staining adjacent surfaces.

Which mixer is better for the bathroom?

Its design will dictate to you the interior in the bathroom in the house: for example, a chrome mixer is perfect for modern design, and a retro-style bronze appliance will look good with a freestanding cast-iron bathtub on forged or curved legs.

And here design it is better to select based on fault tolerance different solutions... Here I will allow myself to give a couple of tips:

The most reliable type of shut-off and control valves is ceramic crane boxes;
Ball switches on the shower do not break in principle. It is easy to distinguish them from externally similar levers by the movement of the handle: it freely rotates 360 degrees.

When buying a mixer, pay attention to its weight. It is not worth buying a device that is too light: with a high probability, it is not brass that is hidden under the chrome coating, but an extremely fragile silumin.

What pipes and how to lay a sewer in a bathroom in a country house?

I advise using inexpensive and durable PVC pipes. Here are the basic rules for installing a sewage system:

It is better to lay pipes openly. Some blockages can only be cleared through the nearest socket. It is advisable that after cleaning you do not have to make unscheduled repairs in the bathroom in the house;

The slope towards the flow of drains should be 2 cm per running meter for pipes with a diameter of 110 mm and 3 - for a diameter of 50 mm;

The diameter of the pipe in the direction of the flow of drains can only increase;
To connect bathtubs, shower cabins and washbasins, the sewerage system is divorced with a diameter of 50 mm, toilets - 110 mm;
The plastic pipe is attached in increments of no more than 10 diameters. The instruction is related to the plasticity of PVC: over several years, unsecured areas can sag under their own weight and form areas with a negative slope. Each counter-slope will become a place of constant blockages;

To connect the bath, it is better to provide an oblique tee with a side outlet directed along the direction of the drains. In this case, a salvo discharge of water will not lead to an overflow of the sewage system;

All connections of piping and siphons with the sewerage system must be tight. Sewage odors will enter the bathroom through the openings.

Ventilation

How to get rid of dampness in the bathroom?

By organizing its heating and forced ventilation... In the attic bathroom of my house, air is drawn through a grill in the ceiling; a duct fan with a capacity of 105 m3 / h is responsible for ventilation. It is connected to a separate dimmer that allows you to adjust the speed, and works around the clock.

Conclusion

I hope that my experience will help the reader to successfully solve the problems of building and decorating a bathroom. As always, Additional materials can be explored by watching the video in this article. I look forward to your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!

August 28, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Time passes, and it turns out that a private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. We will tell you how to do this efficiently and at no extra cost in the article.

Save money without sacrificing quality - requirements for premises and materials

Poorly thought-out design of the extension over time will force something to be altered or completed, attached to country house... In order not to get into such a situation, we think over all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start by choosing the location and size.

Each type of additional room has its own specific features in connection with the use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room in the country, then this is tantamount to the construction of a small house. It is required to reliably insulate, to prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.

Kitchens and bathrooms are another common type of annex. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about engineering communications and supply them even before the start of construction. Sewerage and water pipes are much more convenient to lay before pouring the foundation than to break through under it later. Waterproofing requires increased attention flooring... We are thinking about insulation, but if the kitchen is planned to be summer, then you can save on this.

The house is expanded with a veranda annex. The structure is light, serves for summer holidays, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many versions: from the simplest in the form of a boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to a complex one with walls, doors, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but waterproofing of the foundation is necessary.

An extension to the house should be in harmony with the main structure. If the house has an external finish, then it will be easy to repeat it in the attached room. Wood goes well with all materials, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option would be a frame structure:

is being built quickly, literally in a few months;
does not require a capital foundation, because it is light;
without special knowledge and skills, it is available for DIY construction;
will cost less.

The base for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching the structure to the house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but we leave the expansion joint. In this respect, frame structures are favorably distinguished, which do not give vertical shrinkage.

If the structure is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is pitched. We choose the slope so that the snow does not linger and the rain flows down. If this is an extension to the side wall, then the roof repeats the configuration of the main one. The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined.

Columnar base - fast, cheap, reliable

For columnar foundation the annexes to the house use concrete, brick or a combination of both. It is made mainly for a living room or veranda. If used for a kitchen or bathroom, thermal insulation of the input will be required engineering communications into the house. Since the protection concerns on average half a meter of pipes, you can go for such costs, it will still be cheaper than a strip foundation. The floor is made of boards, for concrete you will need a lot of material for backfill, a fence around the perimeter.

We start by marking the site, the installation sites of the pillars are one and a half meters from each other. A separate pit 50 × 50 cm is dug under each pillar, the depth is greater than the freezing of the soil. At the top of the pits we expand a little: on each side about 10 cm. The bottom is covered with a layer of sand 10 cm, carefully rammed, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also rammed.

We spread the film for waterproofing, bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build pillars of bricks, pour a little into each hole concrete mortar for the base and wait for it to set. When concrete pillars are planned, we tie the reinforcement at the top along the entire height, lower it into the pits. We provide equal distance between the walls. We put pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.

We make the formwork for the basement, inside which we run the film. Pour the concrete layer by layer, pierce each layer several times with a rod so that air bubbles come out. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it grabs, then continue pouring. We carefully level the top of the pillar and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time we pour heavily with water, cover with burlap or film.

When the foundation has acquired the required strength, the formwork is removed. We warm up the bituminous mastic, apply it to the posts and immediately glue the pieces of roofing material for waterproofing. There is a space left between the pillars, which it is advisable to fill up in order to insulate the floor. We use ordinary earth mixed with rubble or pieces of brick. We fall asleep in layers of 10 cm, ram. The technology for erecting a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar foundation, it is solid.

Getting Started - Bottom Rail and Extension Floor

So, we settled on the frame version as the fastest and cheapest. In order for the tree to serve for a long time, it is required to adhere to two rules: to make reliable waterproofing and to carry out antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing, the most reliable means is bituminous mastic. It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.

Then we make the bottom harness. Usually, a bar of 150 × 150 mm is used, but it is possible to use boards of 150 × 50 mm. We lay them horizontally along the entire perimeter, leveling with the outer edges of the foundation. We do not connect the boards of the first row to each other. We lay the second row on top, overlapping the joints in the first.

In the boards laid in this way on the foundation, we make through holes for the studs and connect them. If it is tape, we drill and connect it on the ground, and then we lay it. To get the effect of a single bar, we knock down with nails in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. It turns out a strapping of the required thickness, which also has additional advantages:

costs much less than bars;
it is very simple to connect with each other, it is more difficult with bars.

We attach the lower strapping to the beds from the same boards 150 × 50 mm, installed on top of the edge along the outer edge. We fasten them with 90 mm nails between ourselves and with the beds. Next, we expose logs from a similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60–80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the logs, the narrower we install them. They are attached to the strapping board with nails, 2 on each side.

Now we start to warm the floor. The cheapest, albeit not very environmentally friendly option is tiled polystyrene foam with a density of at least 15 kg / m 3. Its advantage is that it is the only heater that is not afraid of moisture. We nail bars of 50 × 50 mm to the lower edges of the lag, which will hold the expanded polystyrene. A thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay them so that the seams of the lower and upper rows overlap.

The base is ready. Lay the subfloor on top. So that it does not warp over time, we put it, alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look into the cut: we put one board with an arc up, the other down. We make the finishing floor from plywood, the joints are staggered. A rough base is not necessary if you have grooved edged boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more or 15 mm plywood. We put it directly on the logs.

Wall installation - two assembly technologies

There are two technologies for assembling frame structures. The first is called frame-panel board, when the entire assembly is carried out on the ground, then the finished structures are installed in place and fastened together. Sometimes sheathing of the frame is carried out immediately, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves gradual installation right on site. Which one is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. A shield assembled on the ground cannot be lifted alone, assistants will be required.

We begin the construction of the frame with corner posts. For them and intermediate racks, we use a bar of 150 × 150 mm or even 100 × 100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we find out in advance. We arrange the pillars so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. So we will save on waste-free use of the material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving gaps.

Fastening can be done simply and reliably with metal corners installed on both sides of the racks and fixed with stainless screws. Before finally fixing the rack, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for the corners. One incorrectly aligned beam will lead to the fact that the entire extension will bend.

Temporary slopes, which are installed from the inside and serve until the outer skin is attached, help to maintain the correct shape of the frame. If the sheathing is made of a hard and durable material such as plywood, OSB, GVK, it is able to independently strengthen the base, which will stand securely after removing temporary mows. When a soft material is planned for sheathing: siding, lining, then you cannot do without permanent braces. It is better to install them two at the bottom and at the top of each rack.

In the places where windows and doors are installed, we fasten the crossbars. We make the racks next to them double: they experience increased loads and should be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing the upper strapping. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the lower one: a bed made of two boards fastened together and the strapping itself from the same boards installed on the edge. To it, in the same way as the floor logs were attached, we nail the floor beams from 150 × 50 boards to the edge with nails.

We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correctness of the installation of the struts and crossbars: the columns are strictly vertical, the crossbars are horizontal.

Shed roof - design and technology

The roof of the house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one whole. If the extension is built from the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one, it remains only to repeat its structure in order to lengthen it. When an attached building is located along its length, its roof is pitched. The slope is provided by the difference in height between the front and rear struts. The height of the rear ones should ensure that the roof of the extension goes under the main visor.

The roof supports are rafters, which are laid on the beams. They are made of thick boards to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them out on the ground in a pattern so that they are all the same. Then, after installation in place, there is no need to align horizontally. We process the grooves with mastic, install and fasten them to the walls with brackets, metal corners on hairpins. If the length exceeds 4 m, we install additional vertical supports.

We lay the crate on top of the rafters. Depending on the roofing material, we make it solid or with a step of 0.3–0.6 m. The need for solid wooden flooring arises in the case of using a soft material, we make it thinner for all other types of roofing. We make fastening depending on the type of roof. We fasten the profiled sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws with sealing washers, and ondulin - with nails with a wide head. We provide overlapping waves. Don't forget about the final design: the wind bars not only protect the roof, but also give it a complete look.

Insulation is a mandatory operation for an extension

For the insulation of buildings, they are mainly used mineral wool and foam. Minvats resist fire, low thermal conductivity. They have a low weight, a form of release convenient for consumers: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation is polystyrene foam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, it is not afraid of fungus, moisture, decay. But there are two big drawbacks: rodents love it very much, it emits toxic gases in case of fire.

We carry out insulation from the inside in the following sequence:

1. We install the waterproofing, having previously cut the strips of the required dimensions. We fasten with staples, using a construction stapler, so as to ensure an overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in staples every 10 cm.
2. We put insulation between the racks. We provide a snug fit to wooden structures, close the seams between the individual elements of the insulating material, overlapping the next layer.
3. We fix the vapor barrier, even if we use foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the tree. We fix it in the same way as for waterproofing.
4. We sheathe the walls from the inside. We use drywall on a perfectly flat frame or OSB, if there are irregularities. It is more rigid and smoothes out flaws.

Remained interior and exterior decoration, where there is room for the owner's imagination. The frame extension is erected quickly, cheaply, it has been serving for more than a decade, and it can be built practically without outside help.

Buying a new wooden country house usually involves a lot of problems and worries. Nevertheless, if a bathroom is included in the project of your house, consider that the lion's share of all problems has already been solved. A bathroom in a wooden house is the most difficult part of construction, none of the living quarters requires as much attention and work. Literally everything matters: the location of the bathroom and shower, the size of the room, proximity to water, good ventilation. In addition to the design of sewage and ventilation systems, it is necessary to carefully consider the waterproofing device and issues of further decoration of the premises.

The main stages of building a bathroom with your own hands

The location of the shower room plays an important role: firstly, it must have access to a water source, and secondly, it must be connected to the sewer, or, at worst, cesspool or a sewage treatment plant.

A bathroom in a wooden house (no matter what it is made of: profiled timber or logs, or chopped by hand) is equipped in several stages:

Bathroom in a wooden house: location and dimensions

No matter how much you would like to contribute your share of creativity to the construction of a bathroom, it would be more correct to do this without going beyond the professional rules for its placement:

If one of the walls of the bathroom is external, it will be easier to ventilate.

one of the walls of the bathroom should be external, this will greatly facilitate its ventilation;
if the house has several floors, you can also equip several bathrooms, placing them one above the other;
optimal location - next to the bedroom or dressing room;
unsuitable place for a bathroom - next to the place of receiving and preparing food;
if you want to save space, consider making a main or additional bathroom under the stairs.

As for the size, the bathroom, together with the utility rooms, should not occupy more than 20-25% of the house area. In any case, if the owner wants a huge bathroom, no one will forbid him, it is only important to worry about thorough waterproofing.

Rules for the construction of a bathroom in a private house

The functionality and durability of the future bathroom depends on careful adherence to all installation rules.

The main problem facing the builder is the shrinkage of the wooden house. If a brick or reinforced concrete house does not create such problems, then a wooden one, due to its material, is subject to seasonal changes.

To drain water, use metal-plastic or plastic pipes

Therefore, it is worth considering this fact when laying communication networks, making a reserve of free space or using damping devices.

To drain water, it is best to use metal-plastic or plastic pipes, because they do not deform, being exposed to the walls and partitions that have changed due to precipitation. When fastening the pipeline, it is necessary to use clamps with rubber gaskets.

The design of a bathroom in a wooden house is best done on the basis of a sliding frame system - self-sufficient supporting structure, autonomous relative to the walls of the house and therefore not exposed to them during shrinkage.

The sliding frame is a system of metal profile attached to the wall.

The main requirement for installation is to ensure the mobility of the profile. To do this, with the help of a drill, elongated, oval holes are made in the wall, which are necessary so that the screws, entering them, do not touch the wall covering. The screws are loosely tightened so as not to interfere with the mobility of the entire structure.

Sheathing, installation of the ceiling and floor in the bathroom

After installing the profile, you can start plasterboarding. First, you need to prepare the base: using rivets, the same ones are attached to the existing U-shaped profiles, modifying them so that it is convenient to attach drywall sheets.

Drywall is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws

Drywall can be fixed with self-tapping screws. It is worth deciding in advance on the placement of the wiring and, when installing drywall sheets, drill holes in them for the wires. Tiles can be laid on top of drywall.

It is better to make the ceiling in the bathroom suspended: this way you can conveniently mask all the ventilation elements.

The scheme of waterproofing the bathroom floor in a wooden house

The floor is equipped in different ways: depending on the type of base. If the base is concrete, the floor is made the same as in a stone house. If the base is wooden logs, then first thickened waterproof plywood is laid, then hydroglass, reinforced screed and, finally, tiles.

In addition, a bathroom in a wooden house needs careful waterproofing. If funds allow, you can lay a polymer floor, but if the budget is limited, you can apply a water-repellent mixture with your own hands or glue a waterproof floor covering.

The preliminary finishing of a bathroom in a wooden house must be carried out carefully: it is necessary to level it, clean it, soak it with an antiseptic and repair the cracks in the floor before directly laying the waterproofing layer and topcoat.

Wooden houses are easily damp and highly susceptible to mold. To avoid these unpleasant consequences, it is worth taking care of proper ventilation of the room.

If at least one of the walls of the bathroom is external, then the room itself is ventilated. Additional ventilation requires expensive, fireproof equipment.

It is better to entrust the installation of ventilation to a professional, because incorrectness in this matter can cause further ignition of the system. In addition to the fact that all materials used must be non-combustible, the entire structure must not come into contact with wood, but must be mounted on special brackets. The system also needs fire dampers and reliable protection from moisture.

Water supply to the bathroom in a wooden house

The final stage of work is water supply. Before the supply is established, all systems, from the sewer to the ventilation, must be installed and carefully checked. In order to avoid freezing of water in pipes, all drainage networks must be insulated, and the base of the floor must be equipped with a vapor barrier film.

Scheme of supplying water to a wooden house

Thus, do-it-yourself equipment and preparation of a bathroom for operation requires a lot of effort, building materials and special equipment (take at least ventilation system). You cannot get hung up on the aesthetic side of the issue: it is better to spend less on a beautiful finish, but carefully think over the waterproofing and make the ventilation of the room, not to mention the main thing - the competent summing up of the sewage system.

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