How to make an oven in a brick oven. DIY brick oven

Since ancient times, it has become a custom that the stove in the house served not only for heating. She could feed, and provide hygiene, and put to sleep. The stove is the warmest and most privileged place in the house, it is not for nothing that in all fairy tales old people and children sat on the stove - those who most needed comfort and warmth. Today, the functions of a traditional Swedish or Dutch stove are reduced mainly to heating and decorative functions, which does not prevent them from being used for preparing aromatic and healthy dishes from the arsenal of many world cuisines. The article will focus on brick ovens for the home.

Folding the oven is whole science, which was learned in more than one year of study. If there is no qualified stove-maker among the acquaintances, and you really want to have a hearth in the house, then you will have to take on the implementation of a bold idea yourself. Here's what you need to know before getting started.

Determining the design of a brick oven

Depending on what hopes the owners of real estate have with their home, it is worth considering the most satisfying options for all desires. Don't forget about dimensions. different ovens and their weight. It is necessary to count not only own strength and means, but also the strength of the base.

Russian stove

  • Suitable for connoisseurs of tradition. This construction fulfills maximum amount functions, therefore it will take up a lot of space in the house. Traditionally, it is located in the corner closer to the door, but in modern interiors it can also be placed in the center of the room.
  • The lounger is provided for rest; depending on the dimensions of the stove, it can have impressive dimensions. The crucible (or otherwise the firebox) is located directly below it. A continuous flow of air for better combustion of the fuel is provided by the blower. The hex and the bend are the compartments preceding the mouth of the furnace. Prepared food left in this area is guaranteed to stay warm for a very long time. The underfloor and baking pans were used to store kitchen utensils, grips, pokers. Stoves are small-diameter recesses located along the side wall of the stove. They served to dry small things, for example, mittens covered with snow, dried out very quickly in them.
  • Those who wish to fold the Russian stove in the house will have to provide a place for it at least two meters in height, one and a half meters in width and two and a half meters in length. A structure with such dimensions will easily provide uniform heating of rooms of 30-40 m². But such a furnace also requires a lot of fuel. Those owners who cannot boast of significant volumes of the room or are not fans of the traditional flavor should pay attention to another version of the stove.

Brick oven photo

Swede

  • The model, which is more compact than the Russian stove, designed for heating the room and preparing food, is a Swedish one.
  • She has the same height requirements - two meters. But the dimensions in length and width are reduced to one meter. The firebox provides enough heat so that food can be cooked simultaneously on two burners on a cast iron stove.
  • There is also an oven, which the hostesses will appreciate. The Swede has a lot of modifications, they are named by the names of the developers (furnace designed by Potapov, Buslaev, Kuznetsov). Each one is slightly different in size, appearance, heat dissipation, so choose suitable option will not be difficult.

Brick oven video

Dutch woman

  • It will only serve to heat the house. Contrary to its name, it has Russian roots, as it is an invention of domestic stove-makers. Its main advantages are high heat transfer in a compact size. If there are no severe frosts outside the window, then the Dutch woman is able to keep warm for a day. In number design features includes a winding chimney and a low (compared to the Russian stove) firebox located. Thanks to this, the Dutch woman warms up evenly from bottom to top.
  • Its walls are thin - one, less often two bricks, the base in the form of a circle or rectangle fits into an area of ​​1 m². To heat a medium sized room country house, that's more than enough. And in terms of weight, it is noticeably lighter than its competitors, and in terms of fuel consumption it is the most economical. The design of the firebox is not complicated by the abundance of details, but this only plays into the hands of increasing thermal conductivity. The silhouette of the Dutch stove is very attractive, for improving appearance it is often decorated with tiles.

Preparatory stage before making a brick oven

At the preparation stage, you need to attend to the search for a project brick wall suitable in all respects, think over its location, take into account all fire safety requirements. You will need to select tools, purchase the necessary material and invite assistants.

The project scheme can be ordered from specialized agencies or trust resources on the Web. Detailed courses were even filmed for those who wish.

Of the tools you will need:

  • mesh (sieve) to sift sand, with a mesh size not exceeding 2 mm;
  • shovel;
  • grinder (you will have to cut the brick);
  • a pickaxe hammer will help to chop a solid brick into small pieces and cut them to the desired shape and size;
  • jointing for seams. This is a special tool that allows you to give the joints between bricks a neat and aesthetic appearance. If the stove is planned to be subsequently plastered or covered with decorative tiles, then this device will not have to be used. And when the master wants to leave the brickwork in its original form, the jointing will provide the same density and width of the joints;
  • trowel (trowel) for applying mortar;


  • a mixer attachment for a perforator. The solution will be needed in large volumes, and evenly stir such a mass can only be done using a power tool;
  • It is better to take a tape measure with a margin of length. Five meters will be more than enough;
  • a plumb line will help control the verticality of the masonry in the corners;
  • the rule is needed to check the evenness of the masonry. A flat wooden lath more than a meter long is also suitable;
  • the building level is checked whether the masonry is not "overwhelmed" relative to the horizontal;
  • the work will be "dirty", so the cleaning equipment: buckets, rags, rags and mops must be kept ready. It is better to remove the solution before it dries.

The list of materials will not differ in variety (depending on the selected oven configuration). Significant changes will only be in the number of bricks and additional accessories: cast iron plate, number of doors. Brick, sand and clay are the main items of expenditure.

  • The sand must meet the following characteristics: clean, fine, homogeneous. This can be achieved by sieving.
  • Clay is skinny, normal, and oily. The proportions of the composition of the working solution depend on its variety. Many experts advise to choose the "golden mean", that is, clay of normal fat content.

There are four main types of bricks.

  • Ceramic... This is a classic among home building materials. Lay the foundation, build load-bearing wall, build a country house - all this can be done from red brick. True, now it is produced not only in red and orange, but in almost any shade.
  • Silicate brick has a different composition and color than ceramic. It is less moisture resistant, but it dampens sounds well. But these characteristics are completely irrelevant for the construction of foundations, pipes and furnaces.
  • Refractory brick used in industries where constant heating to high temperatures is the norm. Metallurgists and glass blowers, for example, work with furnaces built from this material. Its high thermal conductivity and ability to withstand extremely high temperatures make refractory (fireclay) brick the best for building a kiln. It is divided into four types:
    • carbon is rarely found in free sale, it is intended for use and construction of highly specialized production facilities;
    • lime-magnesia brick is used in metal smelting enterprises;
    • the quartz type, with all its refractoriness, is very unstable to the action of alkalis or iron oxide. But it can be used for walls and arches of stoves;
    • alumina fireclay brick is the most common, but it will not withstand heating over 1300 ° C.

Refractory bricks are more expensive than conventional bricks. Russian manufacturers offer this building material at prices lower than those of foreign competitors.

Facing brick, as the name implies, is used only for decoration. To improve the appearance of the oven, it is used quite often. The variety of shades makes it possible to fit the stove into any interior.

Foundation for installing a brick oven

  • The furnace foundation is formed (ideally) at the stage of laying the foundation for the house. They must be independent of each other. This requirement is due to the difference in the level of natural shrinkage. It will occur in any case, and the loads on both bases and the temperature effects will be different.

  • The base should exceed the dimensions of the future structure by about 15 cm in each direction. Waterproofing is a mandatory requirement for the base of the oven.

How to make the laying of a Russian brick oven

  • What else do you need to consider before starting work? For a classic Russian stove, you will need about 1700 bricks, a view with a half-door that will regulate access to it, a valve (dimensions for the hole 26 × 24 cm), sand and clay in sufficient quantities. You will need to make about 80 buckets of solution.
  • As for the layer of the mixture to be applied, in this case, the rule is more - it means better, it does not work. A masonry joint of moderate thickness will help the bricks to set faster and stronger.
  • According to the classical canons of laying out the furnace, the arch of the firebox should go at an angle relative to the mouth. The sill-shaped protrusion cuts off sparks from the crucible against the pipes and retains the soot.

  • To help the master, orders have been developed. Thanks to these cuts, you can clearly imagine how the laying of this or that row should be done. The top view allows you to understand when you need to use a whole brick, and where you need to beat off a half. The orders also indicate the places of installation of cast iron and other parts of the stove.

Drawing brick oven

  • The base of the stove must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material. Roofing felt or roofing felt is fine. The first row will be laid out right on it. Fired (overheated) bricks at this stage of masonry will be more preferable, since they are not afraid of moisture.
  • So that the dressing of the seams in the initial and subsequent rows is of high quality, in the corners starting row three bricks of size ¾ are laid. That is, from these incomplete bricks, a triangle is formed: one in the center and one on the sides. They need to be beveled to ensure maximum fit.
  • Second row serves as the starting point for laying out the guardianship.
  • Since the masonry involves the installation of bricks in a staggered manner, in order to avoid overlapping seams, third row will require four bricks at the corners with dimensions of ¾.
  • When laying fourth row you will need to take whole bricks. A pair of bricks that are stacked opposite each other, forming an entrance to the furnace, must have beveled corners. Thus, you get support for the arch. To make the baking even, a wooden formwork is erected in its opening.

  • When the arch is completed, you can return to styling fifth row... Three bricks are placed in the corners ¾. The peculiarity of laying bricks in this row is that 20 of them (those that form the side walls) need to be beaten off with a hammer with a pickaxe so that they form a support for the vaults of the furnace.

  • Sixth row provides for laying the side walls in one brick, and the back and front in two. It is important that the formwork is designed in such a way that after completion of the work it could be easily removed through the entrance to the furnace. If you can't give the bricks the desired shape, you should use the usual ones, and fill the voids with mortar and pieces of broken bricks. But ideal strength is ensured when laying whole bricks with neat bevels.
  • Seventh row the technique of execution resembles the first, for the eighth whole brick is used. The eighth row involves the arrangement of a site for a cold stove.
  • Ninth row- as the first one connected with the walls of the stove. Dry sand is placed between the walls.
  • Eleventh row must completely cover sand backfill and the stove itself.
  • Thirteenth row assumes the beginning of work on laying the walls of the pole and the furnace. Between them is a strip of metal, which in its shape exactly repeats the furnace mouth. You can fix it in the masonry as follows: the strip should be with holes through which steel wire is passed.
  • All other rows are performed in order to build up the walls of the firebox and the pole up to up to the seventeenth row. In it, it is necessary that pre-chipped and hewn bricks in the amount of eight pieces become a support for the arch of the firebox. The furnace itself is laid out similarly to the guardianship.
  • The completed vault of the crucible is an excuse to start laying eighteenth row. A pair of feet - supports are fixed to the side of the window of the pole. The arch, which they are the beginning, will be small. When laying out the next rows in a row, do not forget that the free space must be filled with a mixture of well-dried sand, brick, gravel and broken glass.
  • Twenty first row serves as an overlap of the backfill and the furnace, and twenty second forms an additional overlap.
  • Twenty-third row must strengthen the flap walls and overtube. In the last element, the strangler is fastened, it is needed to connect the samovar pipe to it, if it is planned to heat it indoors. When the subsequent rows are laid, another hole for the view is formed in the overtube. And the next two rows fix the view half-door.
  • Laying technology thirty-first row requires that a gutter forms next to one of the walls (an additional row of three bricks). The next row can completely block the overtube. The only caveat is that it is supposed to leave a hole in it on the right side, blocked by a valve.
  • From the thirty-fourth row you need to build up the walls of the chimney. Almost at the very ceiling, a cut is made in order to let the bricks a little. This achieves two effects: decorative and practical. The latter value is that the groove increases heat transfer and serves as a barrier separating the ceiling structures from the pipe itself.
  • After the masonry dries out, they proceed to the final finishing of the brick oven, perform a trial heating (not at full strength) and enjoy the work done.

Do-it-yourself Dutch brick oven

The Dutch oven is much simpler than the Russian one, but it has its own nuances. The classic version looks like this:

  • the structure has a rectangular shape (even if it is different, the configuration of the firebox will not change and remains rectangular);
  • there is no grate;
  • constituent elements of the structure:
  • the firebox, which is located at the base in the lower half of the stove;
  • chimney, consisting of an exhaust pipe with a six-channel gas passage through the system: three downward and three lifting channels;
  • cleaning door;
  • blew.

You will need to purchase:

  • refractory bricks - 200 pcs;
  • well bendable wire;
  • a piece of roofing material for waterproofing;
  • crushed stone, clay, sand and cement;
  • masonry glue;
  • firebox door, blower, latch;
  • standard set of level, tape measure, trowel, plumb line.

Diagram of a Dutch brick oven

Stages of work

When the foundation for the stove dries out, it is covered with roofing material, and that, in turn, is covered with a layer of clay mortar. Preparation: the clay is soaked in water for at least two days, after which it is taken in a volume of 8 liters, 0.9 kg of glue for laying ovens, two buckets of sand are added. The resulting consistency should resemble thick sour cream. Let the solution dry.

  • First row spread over a layer of sand moistened with water. A sand cushion is poured over the entire surface of the foundation. Not forgetting about the rules of dressing, two continuous rows are laid between the bricks.
  • In the third row the ash chamber begins to form, the door is installed later.

  • Fourth row are performed in order to build up the mass of the furnace, the door is immediately installed. To fix it in the masonry, a metal wire is used. If the first three rows of bricks were laid flat, then in the fourth row they are placed on the edge until the firebox door is closed.
  • The ash pan is installed in the fifth row, and sixth row- simple increase in the height of the walls. When the lining of the ash pan door is finished, it is covered with the seventh row, and the bricks are laid flat again. Eighth row- increasing the height.
  • Some homeowners equip a hob in a Dutch stove. If it is provided by the project, then ninth and tenth row move back. Along the top of the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid along the perimeter, on which a surface for cooking is installed. The tenth row assumes the beginning of laying the base of the chimney. To facilitate the construction, a metal chimney is sometimes mounted.
  • V eleventh row the gate valve is installed (using an asbestos cord), and the laying is done in a quarter of a brick.
  • V fourteenth row the firebox is overlapped from above, along back wall form a hole for the exit of excess smoke. Similar work is being done in the next row.
  • V two rows, sixteenth and seventeenth form a cleanout door. You can simply leave a brick in its place without binding it with mortar.
  • Eighteenth row- this is the basis of the chimney. When all the bricks in this row have taken their places, they install the finished pipe or continue to shape it by means of masonry.
  • Experts advise soaking the brick in water for some time (until air bubbles stop actively entering the surface). It is believed that a wet brick will not absorb water from the solution, it will set better, and in the future the seams will not collapse under the influence of heat.
  • For maximum heat transfer, the walls are laid out in one brick. It is not recommended to heat the Dutch woman with those types of fuel that are characterized by rapid combustion (brushwood, straw, dried reeds). The stove does not have time to warm up, and all efforts literally fly into the chimney.
  • Fuel, which forms a lot of ash during combustion, will also not contribute to heating the room, but it forms a lot of soot in the chimney. This increases the risk of fire.
  • The best option is fuel that can smolder for a long time.
  • To the question of fire safety, it is worth adding that the Dutch oven must not be heated too much. When overheated, it will emit carbon monoxide... The degree of heating is checked by the usual touch of the palm to the masonry: if the hand tolerates heat, then the temperature is about 50 ° C. This is the norm.
  • Anyone who is engaged in laying stoves for the first time should make a trial laying in a "dry" way. That is, to complete all the work in stages, without cementing the bricks with mortar. So you can fill your hand and at the same time decide whether you need help from the outside.

Making a stove with your own hands is not the kind of activity that can be conquered the first time. Careful study of the schemes, trial laying without the use of mortar, advice experienced craftsmen make the task easier. Labor and patience, according to the saying, are very conducive to a positive outcome of any business.

In the last century, the Russian stove was a multifunctional device. This is heating rooms in winter, at the same time it is hot and healthy food, the possibility of preserving the harvest due to drying, and household amenities in the form hot water... It cannot be argued that the Russian brick oven is an ideal device. The disadvantage of the stove as heating is uneven heating. Modern stoves are designed to warm a room to its full height.

The Russian stove consists of the following parts and elements:

  1. Opechek- used for storing and drying wood.
  2. Cold stove- a slight depression in which various dishes are stored.
  3. Six- the area on which the pot can be placed.
  4. Under- this is the floor of the cooking chamber. Has a slight slope towards the mouth, for easy movement of heavy dishes. It needs to be polished with high quality.
  5. Cooking chamber- a place for laying firewood, and cooking food. The vault of the furnace also has a slope.
  6. Overtube- a camera above the pole. The chimney pipe is located higher.
  7. Strangler- a special hole for connecting a samovar pipe.
  8. View- overlapping door.
  9. Lounger- horizontal surface, located behind the chimney. You can easily sleep on it in the winter.

The improved Russian stove is now more common.
It differs in the heating of the underfloor part, due to which the heating of the room becomes more comfortable.

For the masonry of the furnace part, a refractory brick made of chamotte clay is used. The rest of the structure is made of ceramic bricks.

Almost every stove has metal or cast iron parts, such as doors and dampers. They can also be prepared in specific quantities. You will need the following items:

  1. Doors: furnace and blower, as well as a cleaning door, ventilation for the chimney.
  2. Grate;
  3. Metal latches;
  4. View;
  5. Crucible damper;
  6. Hot water box;
  7. Plate;
  8. Steel strips.

To bookmark certain details - arches and vaults - you need easy-to-use templates. They are produced from wood and plywood elements and parts.

Preparation of masonry mortar

Masonry mortar, unlike ordinary mortar, is much more difficult to prepare for oven work. You can also buy a ready-made mixture in the store. But, if you decide to build a Russian stove with your own hands, then you can prepare the solution yourself.

Masonry solutions for stoves are selected depending on:

  • If a solid brick of the M150 brand is used for masonry, then apply clay-sand solution... It is also used for lining the oven with special ceramic tiles;
  • For laying refractory bricks, use based on special refractory clay with the addition of sand;
  • When using fireclay bricks, use refractory clay mortars;
  • In the interim attic space brick pipes are laid using cement-sand mortar;

Usually the oven is located at inner wall, which has a shallow foundation. For the independence of the foundations, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5 cm between them, and fill it with sand. And the upper edge of the foundation should not reach the floor level by 14 cm.

If the stove is placed against the outer wall, on a deepened strip foundation, then it will be necessary to expand the pit and make sand and gravel backfill with careful ramming. Next, a stove is arranged with a certain gap from the base of the house, the so-called retreat. Sand is poured into it, and its end walls are formed with brickwork.

If you decide to install the stove in the opening, then you just need to connect the ends of the lower crown. This can be done using strips of steel, which are placed on the logs on both sides and tightened with special bolts. Further, the opening is framed with special wooden racks. There must be a circulation gap between them and the future furnace, also called cutting. There should be a gap under the wall in the foundation of the house, which will be equal to the width of the base of the furnace on each side.

DIY Russian stove masonry ordering

The main requirement for the laying of the stove is tightness. That is why only whole bricks go to the stove without any cracks, and the seams are made thin - no more than 5 mm. It is not necessary to achieve airtightness by coating all the walls of the furnace with clay from the inside - this will reduce thermal conductivity and increase the deposits of soot and soot. In addition, the clay flakes off and clogs the channels inside the oven, which will be quite problematic to clean. To date, the following methods are used:

  • brickwork- with this method, the wall thickness will be equal to the length of the brick;
  • half brick masonry- here the brick will be laid flat along the wall;
  • quarter masonry- i.e. the brick will be placed on the edge.

The dressing of the seams will be due to the use of bonded and spoon masonry or not full-size building material in the corners.

If using ceramic brick, it must be pre-soaked, as it will "pull" all the moisture from the solution.

During installation, be sure to remove excess mixture, and especially on the inside of the oven. Lay the outer walls of the oven “in brick”, and the inner ones “in half a brick”. Row masonry is the order of masonry operations in each subsequent row. Due to this process, anyone can build a Russian stove.

First row are laid from burnt bricks, it absorbs little moisture. For the first row, the corners are laid out from cut bricks.

Second row begins with the laying of the walls of the furnace, cleanings are laid in the front and on the left side. As a rule, an ash pan is formed on the front part on the right side of the furnace.

V third row cleansing on the left are laid without solution. From the front side, the blower and cleaning doors are installed. The doors are mounted using baked steel wire, which is installed in the cuts in the bricks and fastened with masonry mortar.

V fourth row hearth channels overlap.

On fifth row install the grate of the small firebox. To install the inside of the firebox, refractory bricks are used; it is also laid without using mortar.

V seventh row the grate of the stove is being installed, the walls of the first firebox are being mounted. The right wall must be reinforced with a steel strip.

V eighth and ninth row masonry of walls and internal channels continues. The doors of the stove and small firebox are mounted.

V tenth row the vaults of the first and second firebox will be connected. Cover the bottom of the crucible. And the smoke channels are taken out into the crucible.

V next row a steel corner is mounted on the front edge of the masonry, a plate is installed on top. The space of the right firebox is covered with a special removable grate.

V twelfth row the laying of the front walls of the furnace and the side walls of the slab begins using refractory bricks. The furnace flap is mounted. To the left of the stove, the lower part of the chimney begins to form.

WITH 13 to 16th row the laying of the walls of the furnace continues and the mouth of the furnace is blocked.

V seventeenth row at the beginning of a certain narrowing of the arch of the furnace and expansion of the main chimney. And the back wall of the oven is reinforced with a steel tie.

V 18th row the roof of the furnace will overlap, and the front wall of the furnace will begin to be laid, which forms an overtube.


V 19th row the front wall of the crucible is strengthened with a screed, the walls are being installed above the crucible, forming a certain space for backfill.

V 21st row the stove is closed, and the overtube will gradually narrow towards the chimney.

Despite the large number modern methods heating, the stove does not lose its popularity. It can still be found in many country houses to maintain comfort and create a supportive atmosphere.

However, the stove will serve for a long time and with high quality, giving off heat, only if the following questions are answered:

  1. Where is the best place to place the stove?
  2. What materials and tools are needed for work?
  3. What should be the oven grout?
  4. How to correctly lay the stove?

Where to place the stove correctly?

When considering how to fold the stove with your own hands, you need to correctly place it. For this, the following conditions are taken into account:

  • The walls of the smoke channel must be located at a distance of at least 40 cm from wooden structures
  • The chimney is allowed to be brought out on the same level with the ridge ledge if it is located at a distance of 1.5-3 m
  • If the distance from the ridge ledge to the chimney is 1.5 m or less, the latter should be 0.5 m higher
  • If the pipe is removed more than 3 m from the ridge ledge, its height can be made lower, but the angle between the roof slope and the lines that connects the upper cut of the pipe and the ridge should not exceed 10 degrees

Read also the manual on how to do it yourself

The base of the house and the stove have their own specific features, so it is not permissible to combine them with each other.

Materials and tools

Regardless of the type of furnace chosen, the work on their construction is very similar, and the structures themselves have minor functional differences between themselves. From the technical point of view, they will differ in their versatility, the degree of impact and size.

The original building materials for the construction of brick ovens are:

  • wire
  • lime with sand
  • brick

When purchasing the latter, you need to convince of its correct form and a sufficient level of firing.

To prepare the solution, you can use refractory, red or even ordinary clay. You will also need ancillary equipment that can be purchased in the markets:

  • Necessary doors and flaps
  • Views and valves
  • Grates
  • Hotplates, etc.

In addition to materials and components for the stove, you will need to prepare a set of working tools (level, plumb line, milk brush, as a rule, stove-maker's hammer, level, etc.).

Preparing the mortar for laying the stove

The mortar for a home brick stove is a clay-sand mixture. Sand must be sieved through a sieve so that its mesh size does not exceed 1.5 mm. At this time, the clay should be soaked in water for 2-3 days. It will not be superfluous to pass the finished solution through a sieve (3x3 mm). Each stove-maker chooses proportions for himself.

After mixing sand and clay, you need to add water and start stirring the resulting mixture until a thickness similar to fat sour cream is formed. A high-quality mortar should be placed on the brick in a bunch and spread with a layer of 4-5 cm (recommended joint thickness).

Brick kiln ordering

When everything you need is assembled, and the foundation has managed to solidify reliably, they begin to solve the main question of how to fold the stove with your own hands - brickwork. It should be noted that there are a huge variety of ordering options, and only one will be considered further - the Swede. It is great for heating and cooking. Before starting work, it is recommended to hold the brick in water for up to 10 minutes.

All information about the furnace should be displayed in the drawings. They can reflect both the entire structure and its individual parts or cutouts. For each row, horizontal dimensions are given - orders.

Alternatively, you can use an electric boiler to heat the room ...

The most important is the first row - it is necessary to strictly control the angles, vertical and horizontal. Having made mistakes, even insignificant ones to the eye, they will make themselves felt in the future.

It is customary to place the blower in a niche on the right side. But to make it easier to remove ash from it, in the direction of the camera inner sides combed under a cone. Very often you will not have to use a whole brick, but a certain part of it. It is better to cut the pieces with a special diamond-coated disc, but do not beat off with a hammer.

After installing the blower door, the laying of the second row begins. In this case, a ligation is made with an offset of 30-50% for greater structural stability.

The height of the third row should line up with the top edge of the door. In this case, it is necessary not to forget to cut off the edges of the brick, forming a cone inside the blower for easier ash removal.

The fourth row fits on the left. First, a cleaning door is mounted. A U-shaped canal is made. A square hole must be laid above the ash pan, while blocking the blower door.

The fifth row practically does not differ from the fourth, but the hole above the ash pan needs to be narrowed a little more.

It is necessary to prepare the refractory brick before proceeding with the laying of the sixth row (it will be in place of the hatching). If this is not possible, the usual one will do. In this case, the grate must be supported on the fifth row. A small compensating gap of up to 15 mm is required between it and the bricks, which is filled with sand or a hall.

In the seventh row, it is necessary to block the previously formed U-shaped channel so that it forms three new ones. A door for the furnace is placed on the sixth row.

The eighth and ninth rows are laid in the same way as the seventh. They must reach the top of the combustion door.

In order for the flue gases to smoothly pass into the channel from the furnace, it is necessary to comb out the bricks that block the left channel and the furnace partition.

Laying out the tenth row, you need to monitor its strict verticality. A cooking deck will be laid on top of it, which cannot be mowed, otherwise it will be extremely inconvenient to cook. The furnace door is completely closed and two strictly square channels are left.

The question of how to fold a brick oven with your own hands in half is resolved. The cooking deck covers the combustion chamber, resting on the tenth row. The edge of the bricks, which will contact with it, should be combed, forming a gap of up to 2 cm.A small door for the furnace is immediately installed and the eleventh row is laid out. Two square channels remain on the left.

The twelfth and thirteenth rows fit almost the same. The main difference is that at first both square channels are connected into a single one, and in the next row they are again separated.

The fourteenth row is installed by analogy with the previous one, but in it one channel is blocked by a damper. When closed, it will be possible to use the cooking stove, preventing the stove from heating up.

In the fifteenth row, the valve is closed, and in the sixteenth, the door of the combustion chamber is closed. In order to remove odors and ventilate the cooking compartment, it is necessary to install a door between it and the channel already closed by the valve.

In the seventeenth row, it is necessary to lay steel strips over the cooking chamber, which will allow to block the chamber. In a conventional heating furnace, a domed ceiling would have to be built.

The next two rows cover the brewhouse, but both square channels remain intact.

On the surface of the hob, two bricks are placed on the edge, 40 cm away from the back wall. The doors for cleaning and the samovar pipe are immediately mounted. By analogy, the next row fits.

In the twenty-second row, you must close the doors. Three longitudinal channels (11, 5 and 11 cm, respectively) are made above the brewhouse, on the left - all the same two square ones. In the twenty-third row, the longitudinal channels are covered with bricks laid across. The next row is done in the same way.

By analogy with the twenty-second, rows 25-26 are laid.

In the twenty-seventh row, three bricks must be laid at the same distance and distance from the walls. This leaves only one square channel. By analogy, the next two rows fit.

In the thirtieth row, it is necessary to completely block off the thermal chamber, leaving one smoke channel, which is blocked by a valve. The next two rows are stacked with a slight offset relative to each other. Three such rows guarantee fire safety.

It remains to equip a simple chimney for the stove.

Detailed video instructions for laying the oven with your own hands

In custody

The given order of the "Shvedka" oven is one of the most common today. It not only makes it possible to heat the room, but also to prepare food. Increasingly, such a design can be found in country country houses.

But the question of how to fold the stove with your own hands turned out to be difficult and there is no confidence in your efforts - before starting work, you should contact a stove-maker or a person who has already erected such structures. He will surely give a lot of valuable advice.

What is comfort in a home? This is when it is warm in winter and cool in summer, to step on a pleasant to the touch, non-icy floor covering, comfortable furniture and a cozy bed for you and your children. Children fall asleep faster and get better sleep when it is warm and comfortable to sleep on soft, children's mattresses https://mebelsait.dp.ua/detskie-matrasy.

When you think about building your own home, there is a desire to make it warm and cozy. Heating the house is handled by modern gas and electric boilers, converters, etc., but they cannot create a cozy atmosphere. That is why stove heating is actively used again.

The stove is a highlight of the design, and is economical heater... It is much easier to find an experienced stove-maker for laying the stove. But this long-forgotten craft has just begun to gain popularity, and there are very few experienced stove-makers. Therefore, a reasonable question arises: "How to fold a brick oven with your own hands?"

Laying the stove correctly takes a lot of effort and also has to learn a lot of instructions for laying brick stoves.

Varieties of ovens

The first step is to choose the oven that is right for you. The most popular are:

  • Dutch
  • Russian;
  • Swede.


Dutch woman

This design was created by Russian craftsmen. The design is not complicated and does not require a lot of space. But this does not prevent her from giving off the accumulated heat well.

Russian stove

Large and multifunctional oven. But its size justifies the presence - free space where you can relax. There is a firebox under the stove bench, you can cook food in it. There is a stove next to the firebox, and just below the blower, which supports the fire. There is also a niche for freshly prepared food.

A Russian stove will easily warm up a room whose size exceeds 40 square meters... But for a full-fledged robot, a lot of raw materials are required.

Swede

Treat compact options. In length and width - 1 meter. The main function is to heat the room, but you can also cook food on it. The peculiarity of such a stove is that a stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest of it will be in another part of the house.

This design is fire hazardous. But the risk of fire is reduced by using dampers.

Building rules

A homemade stove must meet fire safety requirements. Therefore, you need to pay special attention to the preparation for construction.

  • Decide on the location of the oven.
  • Prepare the correct drawing.
  • Buy quality materials for construction.
  • Purchase of tools.
  • Draw up a cost estimate.

Correctly drawn up drawings will become your main assistants, since it is the drawings of a homemade brick oven that help to avoid many mistakes. Ready-made plans can be found on the internet.


When choosing an installation site, you need to take into account the area of ​​the room and the type of oven. It is difficult to calculate everything on your own, so it is easier to use a reduced model of a brick oven, a photo of which is on the Internet.

Choice of working tools

Measuring, construction and many other auxiliary tools are used when storing the stove:

  • Joining - floods the mortar into the joints and gives the joints an aesthetic look. It is useful if the stove is left without cladding or plaster.
  • Trowel.
  • Pickaxe hammer.
  • Mortar shovel.
  • Plumb line.
  • Stove ruler.

Materials (edit)

The heat dissipation and durability of the stove will depend on the material used in the construction. Therefore, this stage is very important.

For cladding, ceramic bricks are used - M-500 brands. It is insensitive to temperature changes. And the combustion chamber must be laid out only from refractory bricks.

In addition to bricks, it is used:

  • Sifted sand.
  • Clay is of normal fat content.

Furnace foundation

The basis for a homemade stove is made at the time of construction, since a brick oven requires a solid foundation

Dig a hole first. It should be noted that the width and length of the pit should exceed the size of the foundation by 20 cm

After the pit is leveled, and half covered with sifted sand, well compacted and leveled. Waterproofing is laid on top of the sand, and formwork is placed. Further, all the free space is poured with concrete mortar, bringing it to ground level. Be sure to check the surface for horizontalness with the help of a building level.

After 5-6 days, the concrete should harden. After that, the formwork is disassembled, waterproofing is put in and the foundation is brought to the floor. There are two ways to bring the foundation to the floor:

  • lay out of bricks;
  • rebuild the formwork, pouring it with concrete to the beginning of the floor. All voids are covered with sand, ramming it.

Recipe concrete mortar- one part of cement contains 2.5 parts of sand and four parts of gravel.

Masonry process

The masonry mixture is prepared from sifted sand and clay. The clay is left in water for a couple of hours, after which it is sieved through a sieve.

First, the outer layer, which consists of bricks, is assembled, and then the middle. There should be no voids in the joints, so fill them with a clay mixture.


The first rows are built using solid bricks. First row stitches require dressing. After the first rows are ready, the brick will have to be cut.


The chopped side of the brick should be inside the masonry. This rule is also used in the construction of smoke ducts. The chimney is built of red baked bricks. And the opening of the firebox is created using a metal corner, a "lock" layout.

Photo of brick ovens

Cooking ovens include cookers various designs... They are different sizes and serve only for cooking. Connect the kitchen ovens to the root or top pipes.

Brick cookers

By their design, cookers can be divided into simple, medium and complex.

A simple kitchen stove has a firebox and a blower door, a grate and a smoke damper. It is the simplest of all household stoves.

Kitchen stoves of medium complexity, in addition to the above-mentioned stove appliances, have an oven, and complex ones also have a hot water box. Ovens are made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm, and hot water boxes are made of galvanized steel. The casing of the hot water box is made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm. The thicker the steel, the more durable the devices.

Stove with double-burner hob and oven

In a simple kitchen stove, hot flue gases from the firebox are directed under the cast-iron stove, and then they are discharged through the hole under the chimney into the chimney.

In the rest of the stoves, hot flue gases are directed under the cast-iron stove and then, going down, they warm up the walls of the oven or one wall of the hot water box, and then are diverted into the pipe, while heating the lower wall of the oven, the lower and other walls of the hot water box.

The above stoves do not have a cooking chamber, therefore, during cooking, steam and smell are emitted into the room, which negatively affects the microclimate of the room. This article provides drawings of sections and orders of a kitchen stove with an improved design, in which a cooking chamber is provided, connected to a pipe using a ventilation duct blocked by a ventilation valve.

Simple kitchen stove

A simple kitchen stove has dimensions, mm: 1160x510x630 (without a foundation, i.e. without two rows brickwork On the floor).

The following materials are required for laying a cooker:

  • red brick - 120 pcs.;
  • red clay - 50 kg;
  • sand - 40 kg;
  • grate - 28 × 25 cm;
  • furnace door - 25 × 21 cm;
  • blower door - 25 × 14 cm;
  • cast iron stove for two burners - 70 × 40 cm;
  • strapping the slab (corner 30x30x4 mm) -3.5 m;
  • roofing steel sheet under the slab - 1160 × 510 mm;
  • building felt - 1 kg;

One stove-maker can lay down a simple kitchen stove within 3 hours (not counting the laying of the chimney), in addition, it takes 1.5 hours to raise the material and prepare the clay-sand mortar. calculating half an hour per 1 m of pipe laying (when laying a pipe in a quarter of a brick).

The heat transfer of a simple stove with two cooking times is about 0.7-0.8 kW (660-700 kcal / h).

The picture below shows vertical and horizontal sections of a simple cooker. Further, drawings of the masonry will be given in rows (ordering). From the cuts and drawings of the masonry along the rows, it can be seen that laying a simple kitchen stove is not difficult.

Sections of a simple kitchen stove: a - facade; b - section A-A (longitudinal vertical section of the furnace); c - section B-B (transverse vertical section). Designations: 1- firebox; 2 - ash pan; 3 - grate; 4 - smoke valve; 5 - cast iron plate (flooring).

Before you start laying a simple kitchen stove, you should purchase the necessary stove appliances.

Having prepared a clay-sand mortar, they begin laying a simple kitchen stove. If the slab is placed on a foundation, then it is leveled up. When laying the slab on wooden floor it is necessary to cut a sheet of roofing steel to the size of the slab. Put a layer of sheet asbestos on the floor, and in its absence - two layers of building felt, well soaked in a clay-sand solution, cover everything with a sheet of roofing steel and nail it to the floor. Then, a platform is made of a whole brick in two rows of masonry on a clay-sand mortar. After that, they start laying the slabs from the first row strictly in order.

First row put, observing the rules for dressing seams from selected whole bricks, as indicated in the figure below. The completed masonry is checked for squareness.

The first row of a simple kitchen oven

During masonry second row arrange a blower, install a blower door, which is attached to the masonry using an oven wire. The front blower door can be temporarily supported with bricks, which are stacked on the floor in front of the blower door. The bottom of the ash pan is 380 × 250 mm.

The second row of the kitchen stove

Third row similar to the previous one, but the seams should be well tied.

Third row

Fourth row overlaps the blower door, while leaving only the opening of the ash pan measuring 250 × 250 mm, on which the grate is laid. If possible, laying from the fourth row should preferably be made of refractory bricks, as shown in the figure below.

Fourth row masonry. Shaded bricks are refractory. The arrows indicate the directions of movement of hot flue gas in a heating oven.

Fifth row forms a 510 × 250 mm firebox under the firebox. The brick adjacent to the back of the grate is chipped off to form an inclined plane along which the fuel will roll onto the grate (see section BB along A-A). When laying this row, you need to install the furnace door, having previously attached the roofing steel legs to it with rivets.

Masonry of the fifth row of the oven

Sixth row laid in the same way as the previous one, but the seams should be bandaged.

Masonry of the sixth row of the furnace

Seventh row put according to the figure below. This next to leave a chimney under the stove, connecting the firebox with the chimney.

Seventh row of oven

Eighth row performed strictly horizontally, with this row they overlap the furnace door. On the laid out eighth row, a cast-iron plate is laid using a thin layer of clay-sand mortar. Prefabricated cast iron slabs have protrusions, or stiffening ribs, on the lower side, which retreat 15 mm from the edges of the slabs.

Eighth oven row

The internal dimensions of the eighth row masonry should be such that the slab with its ribs freely goes there and has a gap on all sides of at least 5 mm, designed to expand the metal when it is heated. If you do not observe this, then the cast iron plate, expanding, will destroy the stove masonry. To make the masonry strong, an angle steel strapping is placed on the eighth row. It is advisable to cover the frame with a fireproof varnish, which protects the steel from rust.

After laying ninth row a smoke damper is installed using a thin layer of clay-sand mortar. This is the final row, followed by the laying of the chimney.

The final row of a simple kitchen oven

The stove works as follows. Flue gases from the firebox fall under the cast-iron stove, then through the hole under the chimney through the smoke damper they are discharged into the chimney.
There is no cleaning hole in the kitchen stove, since you can clean the chimney through the hole under the chimney, where you can easily stick your hand through the burner of the cast-iron stove.

Example of laying a hob

Firstly, in the kitchen stove, the fire door is installed on the same level with the grate. In the stove, the flue gases are constantly maintained in the chimney high fever, as a result of which it is not necessary to stack thick fuel on the grate. Secondly, with such an installation of the combustion door, the distance from the grate to the cast iron plate will be only 280 mm, which makes it possible to quickly cook food even with low fuel consumption.

After finishing laying the furnace, it must be dried by opening the furnace and blower doors and the valve in the pipe.

The longer the oven dries, the stronger the masonry will be. The stove can be dried with small test fireboxes, but after the trial fireboxes, the valve in the pipe and the blower door must be left open.

After complete drying, the kitchen stove is plastered with a clay-sand mortar, followed by whitewashing.

Exterior decoration is best done as follows: after laying the eighth row and installing the cast-iron plate, as well as before installing the corner steel trim, the kitchen stove is walled up from all sides in a roofing steel case (galvanized steel can be used). Pre-cut the corresponding holes according to the dimensions of the furnace and blower doors. The case is attached to the floor with a plinth, which is nailed around the slab. The outer surface of the case is cleaned and coated with an oven varnish that can withstand high temperatures.

In front of the furnace door, a pre-furnace sheet is nailed to the floor with nails 50 mm apart from one another. If the plinth was nailed earlier, then the pre-furnace sheet must be folded onto the plinth.

Stove with oven

A stove with an oven has dimensions, mm: 1290x640x560 (without a foundation, i.e. without two rows of brickwork on the floor).
The following materials are required for laying a cooker with an oven:

  • red brick - 140 pcs.;
  • red clay - 60 kg;
  • sand - 50 kg;
  • grate - 26 × 25 cm;
  • furnace door - 25 × 21 cm;
  • blower door - 14 × 25 cm;
  • cleaning doors 130 × 140 mm - 2 pcs .;
  • a cast iron stove of five composite plates measuring 53 × 18 cm with two burners;
  • smoke valve - 130 × 130 mm;
  • oven - 45x31x28 cm;
  • strapping the slab (corner 30x30x4 mm) - 4 m;
  • pre-furnace sheet made of roofing steel - 500 × 700 mm;
  • roofing steel sheet under the slab - 1290 × 640 mm;
  • building felt - 1.2 kg;
  • metal box for collecting ash in the ash pan - 350x230x100 mm.

One stove-maker can fold this stove for 3-4 hours, in addition, it takes about 2 hours to bring the material and prepare the clay-sand mortar. The heat transfer of the stove with two cooking times is about 0.8 kW (770 kcal / h). The figure below shows a general view, longitudinal and cross sections of a stove with an oven. Below are the pictures-orders of each row. Laying a stove with an oven is also not difficult and is similar to laying a simple stove, but here you have to install an oven and clean doors.

Kitchen stove with oven: a - general view; b - sections A-A, B-B (vertical sections), B-C, G-G (horizontal sections). Designations: 1 - ash pan; 2 - grate; 3 - firebox; 4 - cast iron plate; 5 - oven; 6 - smoke valve; 7 - furnace door; 8 - blower door; 9 - cleaning holes.

When laying a slab on an independent foundation, before starting work, level its top with a layer of clay-sand mortar.

When installing the slab on the floor, before starting the laying of the first row, it is necessary to carry out the same work as when laying a simple kitchen stove.

Masonry first row made from selected whole bricks, strictly adhering to the rules for dressing the seams. The length of the stove must correspond to the length of five bricks, the width to the length of 2.5 bricks. Using a cord, check the equality of the diagonals.

Laying the first row of a cooker with an oven

Second row spread, strictly following the order. Here, an ash pan with a size of 380 × 250 mm is left, a blower door is installed and fastened, clean holes are left on the back wall (the width of the holes should be equal to the width of the brick, i.e. 12 cm). If possible, install cleaning doors with a size of 130 × 140 mm. At the clearing hole extreme from the ash pan, a brick is laid on the edge, as shown in the order of the masonry. For better fastening ovens in the middle of its installation place half a brick on the edge.

Laying the second row of the slab

Third row similar to the previous one, only the rule of suture dressing should be observed.

Laying of the third row of the slab

Fourth row covers the blower and cleaning doors. After the end of the masonry of the fourth row, an oven is installed on a thin layer of clay-sand mortar in a pre-marked place. After that, the grate is installed. With the same brick installed on the edge, they block the chimney into the chimney.

Laying of the fourth row of a plate with an oven

During masonry fifth row the furnace door is installed and fastened, the brick is cut off by the grate before installation so that the fuel gradually rolls onto the grate during combustion.

Laying of the fifth row of the slab

Sixth row similar to the fifth.

Laying of the sixth row of the slab

Seventh row lay out in order. The formed channel of the chimney from the front side is laid with the help of three bricks, as a result of which the internal size of the formed channel under the chimney will be 130 × 130 mm. In the image of this row, next to the oven, you can see a 10 mm diameter and 160 mm long steam outlet pipe that connects the oven to the riser. This pipe is designed to remove steam and odor.

Laying of the seventh row of a plate with an oven. The arrows indicate the directions of movement of hot flue gases in the heating furnace.

Eighth row perform strictly horizontally in level. This row covers the oven and the firebox door. The upper wall of the oven is coated with a layer of clay solution up to 10-
15 mm, which will protect the oven from fast burning.

Laying of the eighth row of a brick oven (before installing the cast iron plate)

In this case, it is necessary that the distance between the top of the clay mixture and the cast-iron plate be at least 70 mm. After that, a cast-iron plate and a lining of angle steel are installed on a thin layer of clay-sand mortar.

Eighth row of brick oven (after installing the cast iron plate)

After laying ninth row only the masonry of the vertical channel remains. The ninth row is laid according to the image below.

The ninth row of the oven

After laying tenth row install a smoke damper.

The tenth row of the oven

Masonry eleventh row start the chimney. Further laying of the pipe is not difficult.

The final row of the stove (the laying of the chimney is not taken into account)

A stove with an oven works like this. From the firebox, flue gases are directed under the cast-iron stove, from where they, heating the oven from the back on both sides, are lowered under the oven and directed to the hole under the chimney. Rising along the vertical channel, they enter the chimney through the smoke damper and are discharged into the atmosphere.

Cooking stove with oven and hot water box

For the masonry of a cooker with oven and hot water box measuring 1290 × 640 mm, the same materials are required as for the previous cooker. Additionally, you should purchase a water-heating box with a size of 510x280x120 mm.

The figure below shows a general view, a horizontal section along A-A and a vertical section along B-B of the slab.

Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box: a - general view; b - sections. Definitions: 1 - firebox; 2 - cast iron plate; 3 - oven; 4 - hot water box; 5 - smoke valve; 6 - ash pan; 7 - corner steel strapping

Put the stove with oven and hot water box in the same order as the stove with oven. The only difference is that after laying the third row, instead of a partition with a brick on the edge between the oven and the vertical channel, a hot water box is installed in a case. The height of the hot water box must correspond to the height of four rows of flat brickwork. The rest of the masonry is completely similar to the masonry of a kitchen stove with an oven.

Improved cooker with oven and hot water box

In the kitchen stoves in the countryside, they not only prepare food for people, but also cook fodder for livestock, and boil the laundry during washing. During the heating, a lot of steam enters the room and foreign unpleasant odors are emitted. Because of this, the humidity of the air in the room rises, which negatively affects its microclimate. Therefore, in order to remove foreign smell and steam in kitchen stoves, it is desirable to provide a cooking chamber, which is connected to the chimney using a ventilation duct. A ventilation damper must be installed in the ventilation duct.

Installing a double-leaf door in the cooking chamber allows you to keep food hot in it for a long time and thus prevent it from souring.

Cooking chamber in a brick oven

The firebox and the ash pan (ash pan) are closed from the outside with appropriate doors. Top surface oven protect from hot gases with a layer of clay solution 10-12 cm thick. It is advisable to lay the stove from the fourth to the ninth row of refractory bricks (especially the firebox).

An example of overlapping an ash pan

It is advisable to make a kitchen stove up to the ninth row of masonry from sheet steel, and to increase its strength, after installing the frame on a clay-sand mortar, install an angle steel strapping. Since the mass of such a slab will be more than one ton, it is installed on an independent foundation.

If it is impossible to build an independent foundation, the floor must be reinforced with additional beams, which are mounted on brick posts. Instead of brick pillars, you can use pillars made of hard logs, reinforced concrete pillars, iron pipes with a cross section of at least 180-200 mm.

The improved design cooker has a "forward" slide valve. During prolonged heating of the stove, water evaporation in the hot water box is possible. To stop this, add some cold water to it and open the “forward” valve. In this case, the flue gases from under the cast-iron stove do not go down, but immediately go into the chimney. As a result, the hot water box stops warming up, the evaporation of water in it stops.

Example of a "forward" stroke valve

For the convenience of cleaning the ash pan from ash, a special roofing steel box with a size of 350x230x100 mm is installed in it. This prevents contamination of the room when cleaning the ash pan from ash.

A stove of this design has the following advantages over the previous stove with an oven and hot water box:

  • during cooking, steam and foreign odors do not enter the room, which are removed into the atmosphere through the ventilation hole;
  • food cooked on the stove in the cooking chamber remains hot for a long time and does not sour during the day;
  • with the help of the “forward” valve, it is possible to cook food without heating the hot water box and thereby preventing further evaporation of water in it.

The figure below shows a general view of the kitchen stove from the front, here are also drawings of sections of the stove in the most difficult places. Masonry drawings in rows will be further, and they give an exhaustive idea of internal structure plates. Using the orders and drawings in rows, you can fold the stove yourself, without the help of a stove-maker.

Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box of improved design: a - facade; b - sections A-A, B-B, c - sections V-B, G-G, D-D, E-E. Definitions: 1 - blower door; 2 - furnace door; 3 - oven; 4 - the door of the cooking chamber; 5 - smoke valve; 6 - ventilation valve; 7 - gate valve of "forward" stroke; 8 - hot water box; 9 - cleaning holes; 10 - cast iron plate.

A cooker with an oven and a hot water box of improved design has dimensions, mm: 1290x640x1330.

The following materials are required for masonry:

  • red brick - 250 pcs.;
  • refractory bricks - 80 pcs.;
  • red clay - 180 kg;
  • sand - 90 kg;
  • furnace door - 250 × 210 mm;
  • blower door - 250 × 140 mm;
  • grate grate - 280 × 250 mm;
  • oven oven measuring 250x280x450 mm;
  • cast iron stove with two burners - 700 × 400 mm;
  • hot water box - 250x140x510 mm;
  • pre-furnace sheet - 500 × 700 mm;
  • strip steel with dimensions 400x250x6 mm;
  • door to the cooking chamber - 750x350x5 mm;
  • angular steel for strapping a plate with a size of 30x30x3 mm - 4.1 m;
  • strip steel for overlapping the cooking chamber with dimensions 450x45x4 mm - 4 pcs.

The stove can be folded down by one stove-maker within 18-20 hours; an additional 6 hours are required to prepare the solution and apply the material.

To fold the stove with the firebox on the left side, you need to consider the drawings with the help of a mirror placed on the edge of the drawing.

The stove is laid out as follows. Masonry first row produced on a foundation erected to floor level. The first row defines the basic dimensions of the slab. The length of the slab is equal to the length of the masonry of five bricks on a clay-sand mortar, and the width is equal to the length of 2.5 bricks.

First row of improved range cooker with oven and hot water box

During masonry second row in front, two cleaning doors and a blower door are installed. They are attached to the masonry with an oven wire.

Masonry of the second row of the oven; 1 - blower door, 9 - cleaning holes.

Masonry third row produced according to the order, it is similar to the previous row. After laying the third row, a hot water box is installed.

Masonry of the third row of the oven; 11 - steel sheet 3 mm thick.

Toplivnik fourth row they are laid from refractory bricks, in its absence, sorted first-class red bricks are used. The fourth row overlaps the cleaning holes and the blower door to form the beginning of the hearth. After laying the fourth row, a grate and an oven are installed.

Masonry of the fourth row of the furnace

Masonry fifth row is not difficult. The brick adjacent to the back of the grate is half cut to form an inclined plane.

Masonry of the fifth row of the stove; 3 - oven.

Before laying sixth row prepare the furnace door, for which strip steel is riveted from above and below, which should be 10 cm longer than the furnace door in both directions.For greater strength, the ends of the strip steel are screwed with oven wire, the ends of which are embedded in the masonry. The door is installed on a clay-sand solution, having previously wrapped the frame of the combustion door with asbestos fiber.

Sixth row masonry

Masonry seventh row fix the base of the combustion door.

Seventh row masonry

Eighth row covers the hot water box.

Eighth row masonry

Ninth row covers the fire door and oven. The top of the oven is protected from burning with a layer of clay mortar 10-12 mm thick. It is advisable to lay this row entirely of refractory bricks.

Masonry of the ninth row

After the end of the masonry of the ninth row, a cast-iron stove is installed above the firebox on a clay-sand mortar. The large burner of the stove is placed above the firebox. Next to the main slab, an additional one is placed, made of steel sheet with dimensions of 400x200x6 mm. After that, angle steel is laid, to which the lower frame of the cooking chamber door is welded. For strength, it is advisable to tie angle steel through special holes in it with oven wire, which is attached to the masonry.

Installing a cast iron plate on the ninth row; 12 - steel sheet 6 mm thick; 13 - angle steel.

Tenth row put from ordinary red brick. On the right side, a window is left for cleaning the channel of the "forward" stroke. Some of the bricks that cover the slab are cut off with a pick before laying, so that in the event of a slab breakage, it can be easily replaced.

Tenth row masonry

Masonry eleventh row does not present difficulties, you only need to follow the rules for bandaging the seams.

Eleventh oven row

Twelfth row overlaps the cleaning window.

The twelfth row of the oven

After laying Tthe thirteenth row on the mud-sand solution, a "straight" stroke valve is installed.

The thirteenth row of the oven; 6 - ventilation valve.

Masonry fourteenth row must correspond to the level of the upper frame of the door to the cooking chamber. Next to the upper door frame, 45x45x800 mm angle steel is installed to the cooking chamber.

Fourteenth row of the oven

Fifteenth row closes the door to the cooking chamber.

Fifteenth row of the oven

Sixteenth row closes the channel of "direct" travel.

Masonry of the sixteenth row of the kitchen stove

Masonry seventeenth row provides a ventilation duct to remove odor and steam from the cooking chamber.

Masonry of the seventeenth row of the kitchen stove

After the end of the clutch eighteenth row above the cooking chamber, four pieces of strip steel 4x45x500 mm in size are installed to overlap the cooking chamber.

Masonry of the eighteenth row of the kitchen stove

Nineteenth row overlaps the cooking chamber. After the end of the masonry of this row, a ventilation valve is installed.

Masonry of the nineteenth row of the kitchen stove; 6 - ventilation valve.

Masonry twentieth and twenty-first rows are not difficult, only the seams should be well tied.

Masonry of the twentieth row of the kitchen stove

Masonry of the twenty-first row

Masonry twentysecond row reduces the size of the chimney, it will be 130 × 130 mm.

Masonry of the twenty-second row

Twenty-third and twenty-fourth ranks put according to the order.

Twenty-third row of the oven

Twenty-fourth row

After laying twenty fifth a number of a smoke damper is installed, which is also an adjustment valve.

Masonry of the twenty-fifth row of the stove; 5 - smoke damper.

Masonry twenty sixth row start the chimney. Chimney laying is not difficult.

Masonry of the final row (excluding the chimney)

After finishing the laying of the furnace, before it is coated, the chimneys are cleaned from the fallen remnants of the solution and rubble through the cleaning holes. The holes for cleaning are then laid with halves of bricks in a clay-sand mortar.

When installing cleaning doors, they are tightly closed, leaks are covered with clay-sand mortar.

After that, the stove can be dried in two ways: by opening the furnace and blower doors and valves, or by small test furnaces. After complete drying, the slab is plastered with a clay-sand mortar, and after drying the plaster, a two-fold whitewashing is performed. In front of the furnace door, a pre-furnace sheet is nailed to the floor.

DIY brick cooking stove: step-by-step instruction masonry + photo


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