Is it possible to grind wax on a Venetian with a sponge. Venetian plaster application

Construction works are completed with finishing. When it comes to the interior, everything is important - every nuance (even a small stroke), every phase finishing works... And the most important stage is the finishing coat. They can ruin all previous work or make it perfect. The stage responsible for the overall result is waxing, in particular wax, for decorative plaster becomes protection. Mirror-like shiny or softly reflective coating looks great and can decorate and refine the interior. There are special types of wax that impart a special depth or silkiness to the surface of the walls from decorative plaster.

What is the material

Beeswax is originally a natural substance for which mankind has found many fields and uses. It smells good, does not let in moisture and can give a surface a shine. It is used in finishing works as a coating for decorative plaster.

In fact, everything is not as simple as it might seem. The wax for plaster should not be separate from it and just lie on it, repeating its shape. It is applied in order to emphasize the texture, give, tint or decorate the surface with various patterns. He must become protective film plaster composition, and after its application, no changes will be made. Therefore, the choice of wax materials must be approached with special responsibility.

Varieties of wax

The choice of wax requires special attention. It is based on the quality of the plaster surface: whether the decorative plaster is porous or has a dense texture. In the first case, you will need liquid wax, in the second, a gel wax mass. In addition to consistency, there is one more parameter by which wax compositions differ - product origin:

• natural (more precisely, a composition containing a natural bee product),
• synthetic (may contain polymers and stearin).

In fact, both materials are solutions in water or some other solvent. The natural composition gives the coating a beautiful mirror-like shine. Synthetic - the material is more durable and has better protective properties, but the gloss of the coating is muted, semi-matte.

Wax formulations are:

• transparent (colorless),
• colored.

A feature of colored wax is that it can achieve varying degrees of toning from translucent to very rich. You can buy the material already tinted, or you can paint it in the desired color yourself.

Mass coloring (tinting)

The transparent wax material, when applied to decorative plasters, has its own field of application. For example, it is usually done for protection. Therefore, tinted wax is not required for Venetian plaster.

It is worth paying attention - according to the technology, the Venetian plaster is covered with wax, not varnish !!!

Sometimes, if the walls are yellow or, to give the effect of "palace gilding", you can use a golden composition for the Venetian. Very often yellow, also called "golden", wax for walls is used in the interior. For a more similar finish with natural stone (onyx, malachite, etc.), decorative wax is used to obtain the effect of antiquity. It can be obtained by adding universal pigment pastes, glitters.

Computer or manual tinting of transparent material is possible. You can add a little gold, bronze or silver powder to it. The amount of added glitter is determined at will, but cannot exceed 15% of the weight of the wax material. After the curing of the wax film, a metallic sheen will play on the walls.

To obtain the aging effect, tinted bituminous wax is used. To do this, in a natural composition melted in a water bath ( with made according to the recipe below) add bitumen varnish. Such a homemade composition can also be used to accentuate craquelure cracks.

How to make wax for decorative plaster yourself

A natural bee product is expensive and very dense. In its natural state, it is not very suitable for decorative coating. It can be used to make a creamy wax composition that is suitable for finishing.

Recipe 1 - soap-based wax

Oleg Antonov from Kiev, during his rich practice of decorative finishing works, created many recipes for inexpensive, but high-quality materials. It offers an artificial coating composition for decorative plasters that replaces the natural product.

Have to take:

• 150 g (piece) of toilet soap,
• 2 tsp (with a pinch of) baking soda,
• 7 p. boiling water.

Subsequence:

1. Stir up the soap (a trowel with large holes is suitable).
2. Pour boiling water over the shavings. Bring to complete dissolution.
3. Add dissolved in hot water soda.
4. Stir the mixture with a whisk.
5. Leave to cool for 20 minutes.
6. Check if the received product is stretching. If the paste is stretchy and sticky to the touch, add a little more soda solution. For this, the paste is heated in a water bath until liquefied.

Recipe 2 - based on natural wax

To do this, take:

• 2 parts of a natural substance (paraffin can be used),
• 1 part "turpentine oil" (refined turpentine),
• 1 part flax oil
• dyes for candles or any other fat-soluble.

The wax is crushed, placed in a clean container in a water bath. The melted substance is mixed into a homogeneous mass with the rest of the components. After cooling, it can be applied in the same way as purchased material.

Recipe 3 - based on wallpaper glue

Wallpaper glue (non-woven) is a universal material. It is possible to make various building materials from it: plaster composition, putty and ... wax for decorative plaster, moreover, with your own hands, therefore, inexpensively.

The recipe offered by Roman Odarchenko. Components of the liquid composition:

• 2 pieces of glue,
• Part of any acrylic lacquer,
• ½ part decorative paint(gold, mother-of-pearl, etc.).

1. the glue is diluted according to the instructions (available on the package);
2. insist half an hour;
3. add paint and varnish to the glue solution;
4. mix.

It is easy to get rid of lumps: the mixture is filtered through gauze cloth or nylon stocking.

Application and polishing

Dry the decorative plaster before applying the wax film. It takes three days to dry well. The minimum time is a day. This time will be enough to notice and correct the flaws in the plaster coating. After waxing, this will not be possible. When waxing, the room temperature should be above + 5 ° C.

If the wax composition is too dense, it can be diluted with water. For this, the substance is placed in a warm place (it can be next to the battery) or heated in a water bath. Very warm water can be added no more than 3% by weight of the composition. After mixing well, the mixture is allowed to brew for about a week before use.

The surface must be clean and free from dust. It is advisable to remove the dust with a vacuum cleaner, since the film needs protection from dust for another three days. Before applying the finishing wax layer, you can prime the plaster with a solution of Alpa Design wax (colorless) - 1 part of the product, 4 parts of water. This primer also needs to be dried.

A rubber trowel is suitable for applying thick material to shallow surfaces. For the liquid composition, sponges, rollers, pieces of cloth, brushes are used.

The wax composition is applied so that it fills all the depressions and rises slightly above the surface textured plaster... The consumption of wax materials depends on the texture of the plaster layer, its porosity, the number of layers applied. For waxing 1m2 of Venetian, it can be in the range from 50 to 80 g.

It is necessary to apply wax on the wall without interruption so that areas of different intensity of color do not form. Therefore, it is better to work together with a large coverage area. A beginner needs to work in sections and try to apply the product at once with better quality, removing the excess in time.

The superimposed composition is rubbed with a damp sponge over the surface. Then rub it with a soft cloth into the plaster until it shines. The plaster layer will absorb as much of the wax composition as it can. The surplus must be removed. To avoid visible butt transitions, they try to remove excess material immediately.

Much in the technique of applying the substance also depends on the technique for creating the plaster coating itself. For example, cracks and depressions intended to be filled with tinted wax do not need to be freed from excess wax.

Immediately after application, you can grind the mass over the surface of the plaster with a damp sponge, then the color on the protrusions will be light whitish, and in the recesses and craquelures - deeper and more saturated. The relief will be even more clearly visible.

Often, to add extra shine, the wax is sanded with a machine with a special attachment (grinding wheel).

Drying time of the wax film is 13 hours. The wall can be touched after 6 hours. Complete drying - about a week.

Error correction

Sometimes mistakes are made in the performance of any work.

When waxing, there are two options when an error is noticed:

• the applied layer has not hardened,
• the layer had time to harden (usually, this time is 5-7 hours from the moment of application).

In the first case, the error can be relatively easily corrected. For example, if you notice that a layer of wax coating is applied unevenly, then with a clean cloth moistened with water (if the composition is natural) or solvent (in the case of a synthetic substance), you can remove the excess, and where there is not enough wax material, you can add it.

If the wax layer has hardened, then you can try to warm up the problem area with a hairdryer, wet the fabric hot water and try to erase the excess. Another way is to use a solvent.

If the wax layer is not shiny enough somewhere, you can try to bring it to a shine with a sander with a fur disc. After the wax layer has hardened, it is difficult to correct the error so that it is invisible.

How to wash off, remove the wax layer

The thick wax layer that did not have time to harden is washed off with hot water or solvent. For this, pieces of fabric are used. Can be used to rinse off white spirit - a solvent designed to remove from wooden surfaces primers.

Practice in a corner of a wall or any other inconspicuous place before using any of the suggested methods. Only after making sure that the main finish does not suffer, proceed to work with large volumes.

The dried wax film can be removed from the smooth surface / Venetian by sanding with a fine-grained sandpaper. Use a sander with a sandpaper or a sanding sponge, which evenly grinds the film from the entire wall. Then the dust is removed. The surface of the Venetian is covered on a sder with a thin layer of plaster, which has a color close to the previous coating. The layer is immediately glossy. Dry and wax again.

Waxing requires certain skills that are quickly acquired during work. All the excitement, work and cares are redeemed by the amazing quality of the coatings, the colors of which do not fade for years, and the shine gives the house festivity and luxury.

Contrary to the prevailing opinion that the application of Venetian plaster is a worthy business exclusively for professionals, there are many reasons that wall decoration in this way is not only easy, but also presents practically no difficulties at all. If, of course, we are talking about an ordinary imitation of a marble surface. It is much more difficult to prepare the base than to apply a thin layer of the ready-made composition of Venetian plaster on it. Do you want to be convinced of this? Then, together with the site, let's go through step by step the entire process of decorating walls with Venetian plaster and find out the features of its phased application. And then decide for yourself how difficult the whole thing is for you.

DIY Venetian plastering photo

DIY Venetian plaster: stage one

The process of applying Venetian plaster begins with priming the surface. To ensure a high-quality and durable wall covering, it is better to use a primer that contains fine quartz sand. When purchasing ready-made solutions of Venetian plaster, in the same decorative coating salon, ask which primer is suitable for this or that mixture. The primer is applied with an extremely stiff cloth with short, chaotic strokes. The fact is that traces from the primer are visible through a thin layer of Venetian and will look ugly against the background of the resulting pattern. It is for this reason that the primer must be applied in exactly the same movements as the Venetian herself. After applying the primer, it must be left to dry completely for 6-12 hours.

How to apply Venetian plaster photo

In order not to waste time while the soil dries, you can start preparing the Venetian solution itself. Basically, if you order it in the salon, then the necessary colors will be prepared for you directly there. If you purchased a homogeneous mixture at a hardware store, then it needs to be tinted. It is quite difficult to make a solution of the required color by hand. Here, as in the lottery, you can guess with the amount of dye, and maybe spoil the whole composition. Therefore, it is better to use the services of computer technology (by the way, it is available in almost any construction supermarket). It will be necessary to prepare two types of solution for the Venetian - they should differ from each other in color. One mixture should be lighter and the other darker. Combine different colors not worth it at random.

DIY decorative plaster

Venetian plaster application: stage two

To apply decorative Venetian plaster with your own hands, you will need:

1. special trowel made of polished stainless steel;
2. small typesetting spatula;
3. damp cloth.

The very process of applying this plaster looks very simple. A little mortar is applied to the trowel using a small typesetting spatula, after which the trowel is placed against the wall and with a short movement the composition is transferred from the trowel to the wall. It is very important to understand that the layer of the composition must be very thin - therefore, the trowel must be pressed strongly against the wall and held almost perpendicular to it.

The next stroke, allowing you to apply a solution of decorative Venetian plaster to the wall, should be directed perpendicular to the previous one - all subsequent strokes are applied in the same way. The most interesting thing is that in this way you can even draw a picture on the wall. But we will leave this matter to professionals, and we will achieve the effect of a marble wall - for this, it is necessary to cover the entire wall with the above-described chaotic strokes. If we are talking about applying Venetian plaster with our own hands throughout the room, then it should be borne in mind that it is necessary to work with planes - if they began to make any wall, then it must be completely finished and only then move on to another.

DIY decorative Venetian plaster

Applying one layer of decorative plaster is not even half the battle. After 6-12 hours, when the wall covered in this way is dry, you can start applying the second layer of Venetian plaster. It is applied in exactly the same way, with the exception of two nuances.

1. Firstly, for the second layer, a composition of a different color is applied (or with a difference of one tone in one direction or another).
2. Secondly, it must be "ironed", ie. give a mirror shine.

This is done quite simply - after applying one and a half to two square meters of the second layer to the surface of the wall, we go back and with the help of the same trowel, pressing it strongly against the dried surface and placing it almost flat, we run it several times along the wall. You will see how the wall begins to acquire a mirror shine with each movement. This process of "ironing" is carried out on the last layer of Venetian plaster - the fact is that in order to achieve various effects, from two to five layers can be applied to the surface of the wall. In this case, compositions can be used different colors... Having applied two solutions of almost the same color, the third can be used completely different, for example, golden or silver - this will only add depth to the color.

Venetian plaster application technology

Stage three: waxing and polishing

Before proceeding to the final stage, the technology of applying Venetian plaster provides for the complete drying of the wall surface - you will have to wait from 24 to 48 hours, depending on the time of year and the temperature in the room. This step is the easiest. The wax is applied to the surface of the Venetian in a very thin layer using the same trowel (a thick layer of wax leads to the formation of stains). The wax coating of the Venetian must also dry well, 6-12 hours is quite enough for this. After this time, you can start polishing - no special equipment is required for this. The whole operation is performed using a suede cloth - the polishing process is more like rubbing the surface and is performed in a circular motion.

Technique for applying Venetian plaster photo

That, in principle, is all, now judge for yourself how difficult this process is for you. Well, in conclusion, I would like to say a few words about how Venetian plaster with a cracking effect is made. Here, almost everything is the same, only the first base layer is applied up to 2 mm thick and dried artificially using construction hair dryer- the size of cracks and their depth directly depend on the thickness of the Venetian layer and the intensity of surface heating. With the help of these factors, cracks can be controlled and the desired pattern can be created. The cracks are filled with a second layer of Venetian of a different color, but after the third layer, as in the previous case, the surface is given a gloss.

In general, the application of Venetian plaster is more time consuming than difficult. Good practice is essential here, so you have to practice a little.

Venetian plaster. As a noble finishing material, they started talking about Venetian plaster relatively recently, although they used "Venetian" for a very long time.
Venetian plaster was invented back in Ancient Rome, but not in Venice as it is commonly believed. In general, the history of the emergence of Venetian plaster is very commonplace. The main finishing material in ancient times was marble. It was sharpened, sawed, ground and polished. After working with marble, it remained a large number of waste, it was marble dust, chips and sand. All these wastes were mixed with slaked lime, and it was the binding element for this material. As a result, a mass was obtained that could be easily applied to the walls using both finishing material or as a base for frescoes and art paintings. And only then, after many years, it was revived in Venice and received its "Venetian" name "stucco veneziano" ("Venetian plaster"). Various natural dyes were added to it to add color and variety.

Later, not only marble, but also quartz, onyx, granite, limestone and many other stones began to be used for the production of Venetian plaster.
The composition of the "Venetian".
In fact, the composition of this material has not changed over many centuries. The proportions of the components are somewhat different due to the use of synthetic additives, but the base remains the same. First of all, dust - granite, quartz, marble and other types of stone. Another component is a binder, as mentioned above, in those days slaked lime served as it, and today synthetic binders, acrylic and other similar materials are used instead of lime. The rest of the components are water and dyes, now mineral dyes are also being changed to artificial ones.

The plaster itself, after polishing, becomes transparent, which allows you to achieve an indescribable play of light. Therefore, the preparation of the surface on which the Venetian plaster will be applied must be done very well. Otherwise, all cracks and irregularities on the surface to be trimmed will be visible.
The Venetian plaster applied to the surface begins to absorb carbon from the air, as a result of which the carbonization process takes place in it, that is, a solid carbon film is formed, which provides unique performance characteristics.
The texture of the coating can be matched to any interior and furniture, this is completely your personal decision, you can create exactly the pattern that you need in accordance with the general idea.

How to carry out the application work.
It should be noted right away that the main difficulty in creating such a topcoat lies in the technology of its application. This process is complex, time consuming and lengthy, but the final result depends on it. Consider the classic Venetian plaster application. If the operations are performed correctly, after the end of all the work, you should have a result, of course, there are an infinite number of shades and textures, but in the classic application it is as follows: from the corner. Distribute the material in small areas of 10-15 cm with chaotic strokes, strokes should go under different angles the more chaotic the better. The size of the smears will be easy to hold because the width of the spatulas and trowels for applying this material varies just in size 10-15 cm. Keep the trowel (spatula) tightly at an angle of 10-15 degrees to the surface. The layers should be very thin (about 1-2 mm). After the first layer has completely dried, the surface is sanded and rubbed with a spatula. Do this carefully so as not to rub off the applied - just remove excess material from the surface.
Then, similarly to the first, we apply the second layer, trying to keep an even thinner and more uniform layer. After complete drying, we also clean it. We make the third finishing layer “on a scratch”, applying and scraping the material with a spatula at an angle of 80-90 degrees, the thickness should be less than 1mm! Dry again. Then we carry out the procedure of ironing (glossing) with a trowel to develop the pattern. There is a risk of scratches here, so you need to iron very carefully and carefully and, which is very important, do not save on the tool, use only high-quality spatulas and trowels for this operation, because in an expensive tool the quality of steel and the level of polishing of the edges is much higher, they are not "Blacken" and do not scratch the Venetian. Use the tool with pressure, but try to avoid damaging the layer, "pinching" will immediately lead to the detachment of the decorative layer from the wall. Keep the trowel clean, no dried excess material should remain on it (otherwise, scratches will appear immediately). So, upon completion of the ironing, the Venetian plaster coating is ready.

After all these works, you can start waxing with transparent wax. Spread it over the wall with a thin film (with a cloth, mitten, spatula or trowel) and rub it with a clean woolen mitten or soft cloth. Waxed Venetian is resistant to dirt (it can be easily washed), water and steam, which is suitable for kitchens, bathrooms and other wet areas. The above method of application is a classic application. Naturally, there are many techniques for applying Venetian and it makes no sense to paint them, because you can easily find all this on the Internet.

But, I would like to say a little about some of the problems encountered in the application process in order to save you from global mistakes. First mistake. To begin with, there are mineral and synthetic Venetians (as mentioned above) and, as many masters and manufacturers claim, there is no fundamental difference in application between them, there is only a difference in composition, but in fact it is, and it is very large , if not huge. If you are planning a "classic" application or "imitation of marble", it is better to use the mineral Venetian, it is definitely more suitable for these purposes. Mineral water was originally created for such applications, it is more plastic and the topcoat looks more natural, has a noble shine and does not "blacken" when ironed, and synthetics in this design will look like plastic. For textured coatings such as "Moroccan" or "weathered stone", you need to use a synthetic Venetian, it does not float and holds the texture very well, it is much easier to control it with such rather complex application operations.

Second mistake. One Venetian for all colors. There are Venetians for light and dark tones. Base "A" for light, base "C" for dark. But very few manufacturers have different bases, like Iris Deco, they even have three bases, the third base is neutral. And the bulk of manufacturers sell the same base for all colors, and as a rule, this is a base for light colors (because it is the most popular), in the end you have a problem, you wanted to get dark walls, and instead of, say, deep black, you get a dull black with an active gray bloom. This is all due to the large amount of white in such materials. Therefore, under dark tones, you should only use Venetian base "C" for dark tones if you want to get really deep dark colors.

Third mistake. Tinting with low-quality colorants. This is one of the main mistakes that leads to the muddy color of the walls. You will never get a noble, pure and vibrant color on cheap colorants, try to use only high-quality pigments, Italian or American, for example, these are colorants from Modern Masters of the Shimmer Stone series.

The fourth mistake. Waxing. Wax is for the best protective coating, although it is a classic protective compound, imagine walls rubbed with candle wax. During operation, it gets smeared, dust sticks to it, but because there are no other protections, you buy wax. In Venice, old masters rubbed the Venetian plaster with laundry soap, it was soap in those days that was a protective composition for such walls. But today, there are varnishes for Venetian plaster, although only from a few manufacturers, such as McCloskey "Protective Finish" or Iris Deco "Velato". As a protective coating, varnish is superior to wax, it is tougher, during operation it does not get dirty and dust does not adhere to it. By the way, the varnish is very easy to polish, which gives an incredible depth of color to the Venetian; after applying and polishing the varnish, you get completely different walls.

Fifth mistake. Attempting to polish with a machine. The polisher is only good for polishing the Venetian finish lacquer mentioned above. It is not suitable for all other surfaces or protective compounds, especially do not try to polish its mineral Venetian, there will be no sense from this. The only way to polish Venetian plaster well is with a good stainless steel trowel or trowel.

Well, the sixth mistake. I remember how I came across instructions for applying Venetian plaster with cracks. A certain master described a method of creating cracks using a hair dryer, he heated the newly applied material with a hair dryer, subsequently cracks formed. Firstly, this technique is more suitable for loft coatings, with the help of a hair dryer, rashes, peeling and aging of the material are made, and craquelure varnish is used to create cracks, which can now be bought in any store with decorative coatings. If, however, you still decide to create cracks with a hair dryer, get ready for the fact that, firstly, the edges of the scales forming cracks will turn out, and everything, and all this will be very clearly visible after patination, when you apply color so that they highlight, and secondly, after drying and further processing, the material can generally spill out or peel off, because it will simply not have sufficient adhesion to the primer.

Venetian plaster is an excellent material for decorating ceilings and walls. Styling for various natural materials... This decorative coating has a fairly large-scale potential, allowing you to achieve original textured and color solutions... Currently in the domestic market building materials many different decorative coatings are presented, which are grouped under the general name - Venetian plaster. Professionals call Venetian plaster only coatings that are as close as possible to the original in composition and application technique.

Is a relatively new decorative coating containing stone dust and particles of marble. This coating gives the walls the effect of natural stone of valuable species.

The use of such plaster allows you to bring some stylistic solutions to the renovation of the premises that require a thorough and fundamental finish, without spending a lot of money on the purchase of natural stone.

In addition, the walls covered with plaster keep the home warm and cozy. And with competent and proper protection, the marble pattern on the walls will delight for more than one year.

In order for the skillful pattern to hold out on the walls for a long time and retain its original appearance for several years, and maybe even decades, it is necessary to take care of the protective material.

Plaster wax works best with this task. It creates a light, thin, shiny film on the surface that prevents fading, fading and protects the decorative coating from dust and possible accidental damage.

Important! A thin layer of wax will give the plaster beauty, practicality and durability

Venetian plaster wax: types and differences

There are many processing compositions on the market. Some of them require professional application skills, others are quite simple and economical. To find the best option, consider the types of wax to protect Venetian plaster:

. gel wax: has a covering power suitable for hard coatings and thick plaster layers;

. liquid solution: suitable for fragile, porous surfaces, creates a thin protective layer and absorbs quickly;

For a glossy shine, you can pay attention to natural formulations based on beeswax, such mixtures contain a large amount of water and natural ingredients;

Matte and discreet shine of the surface gives synthetic solutions consisting of polymer compounds that are more resistant to indoor use and pollution;

Based on style considerations, can be applied as transparent and colored wax for plastering, if the surface needs toning or color correction.

The cost of a protective coating depends not only on the volume of the material, but also on the components included in the composition, the name of the manufacturer, the equipment and raw materials used by him.

Important note! It is better to purchase products from European manufacturers, their quality is beyond praise, although the cost is quite high.

You should not save on the finishing solution, since the general impression of the repair and how practical and durable the coating will be depends on it.

Nuances and features of the application process

It is necessary to apply wax for decorative plaster after the surface is completely dry.

Important! If the plastered wall has already stood for some time after drying, it is worth cleaning the surface from dust and dirt. A vacuum cleaner with a soft brush will do the job best. Gather up the dust with gentle and gentle movements, taking care not to damage the coating!

Many craftsmen, of course, have their favorite techniques, thanks to which they apply wax for decorative plaster in an even and smooth layer. If you doubt your skills, it is better to entrust this work to a professional, so you can get confidence in the quality and durability of the result.

However, it is quite possible to apply wax on the dried plaster yourself, if you have enough time and patience.

Main steps:

1. Let the surface to be treated dry completely;

2. If necessary, clean the plastered area from dirt;

3. prepare a handy tool; Many wax manufacturers recommend using a trowel, however, if you do not have sufficient skills, it will be quite difficult to cope with it. Therefore, we recommend using a rubber trowel. It is a simpler and more flexible tool that will evenly distribute the protective layer.

4. Apply the composition, starting from small areas, working one, move on to the next, moving along the surface of the wall.

Important! To avoid unnecessary seams and irregularities on the surface, treat the entire surface or at least 1 wall at a time.

5. When finished applying, take a piece of soft, lint-free cloth and rub gently until a shine appears.

Remember that all blemishes can be removed within 4 hours after application. Too thick layer of the composition can be easily removed with a cloth, and already hardened areas can be cleaned with a cloth moistened with white sprit.

In order to give the walls the desired shade, use colored compounds. Transparent mixtures are suitable for complex or color-perfect surfaces.

To carry out all the steps continuously, stock up on enough material.

Depending on the porosity of the surface and the composition of the plaster, the consumption of wax may be different. However, as a rule, it does not exceed 50-80 grams per 1 square meter.

If all the work is done correctly and accurately, then thanks to decorative Venetian plaster, the wall will look as if it is finished with natural marble, and the use of gold-plated solutions will give a luxurious and festive look to the surface.

Use quality materials: savings are unacceptable here

If you have chosen Venetian plaster to give the walls a noble and sophisticated look, it is important to take care of good protection. Choose the best and proven materials to get the best results. You should not save on the finishing coat and working tools.

If you are confident in your abilities and have enough time, it will be quite possible to apply a protective wax for decorative plaster yourself. You will need accuracy and concentration, attentiveness and scrupulousness.

Decide what effect you want to achieve, whether you need a glossy shine in the room or it is better to choose a matte finish, whether you need to adjust the color of the already applied plaster.

Calculate the surface area and buy the mortar based on a consumption of 80 grams per square meter. It is better to have a surplus in stock than to urgently buy the line-up, making a forced break in work, which can affect the final result not for the better.

Prepare your tools. Take both a rubber spatula and a trowel, in the process of work it will become clear which one is more convenient for you to work with.

Also prepare enough clean, lint-free cloth for finishing the wall.

Just in case, keep a solvent nearby, it will help remove an already hardened layer that has been applied too thickly, which can excessively darken the section of the wall.

Applying a protective coating is the last stage of finishing work. All "dirty" work must be completed before the polishing phase.

Let the solution dry and enjoy the result.

Correctly applied plaster appears to be a single plate or self-leveling material with a radiant sheen. It looks stylish and expensive. Accuracy, thoughtfulness, adherence to instructions and a little practice are the keys to the success of any kind of decorative work. There is nothing super complicated about self-waxing if you work accurately and without haste.

The ancient Romans invented Venetian plaster and the technique of its application. It received special recognition in Venice several thousand years later (Renaissance), in connection with which it bears its name. For many Italian Renaissance painters, plaster was the preferred material, and its composition has changed little since then. Perhaps some artificial additives have appeared. Traditionally, plaster consists of marble or granite chips, dye and a binding additive (lime, acrylic or similar substances).

The coating imitates natural materials: marble, malachite, jasper lapis lazuli, etc. The material is able to convey an inner glow, play of light and shadow, against which intricate images appear. Plastering also allows you to get the effect of an old cracked wall. The interior, decorated with Venetian plaster, is imbued with the spirit of the European Middle Ages. The surface can be obtained as different colors, so matte or glossy. Buildings are decorated with Venetian plaster from the inside. The working surface must be perfectly flat and specially prepared. The "square" consumes from 0.3 to 1.2 kg of material. It dries for at least a day. For achievement decorative effects at the finish, varnishes (finish varnish, acrylic), protective wax, glaze mother-of-pearl composition, decorative additives - gold, silver, bronze, mother-of-pearl, sparkles, decorative enamels, water-dispersion paints, structural rollers, stencils, etc. are used.

How the surface is prepared

Before applying the Venetian plaster, the surface is leveled and putty with a latex putty. Then the walls are treated with a deep penetration primer, which makes it possible to level the absorbency of the surface, as well as prevent the appearance of mold and mildew on it. The primer dries in 12 hours. In order to increase the adhesion properties of the surface, it is also treated with a covering primer. The primer is used for application, colored, in color matching the Venetian plaster. The drying time of the covering primer is at least 2 hours. Then the surface is cleaned with a spatula.

How the material is prepared

For application, you can use colored Venetian plaster. You can choose the coloration of the desired color in the store, or you can prepare the material yourself. For this, a dye is added to the plaster, it is better if it is concentrated. Using an electric drill with a "mixer" attachment, the dye is combined with the material. Stir for at least three minutes to obtain a mixture of uniform color. After drying, the color of the collated material does not change, which is a feature of the Venetian plaster. Therefore, there is no need for preliminary coloring. The color of the coating can be seen immediately. The material should be colored with a margin. After all, getting the same color with the next batch will no longer work. The shade will always be different. Therefore, you need to immediately make enough material to cover the working area.

How Venetian Plaster is applied

A spatula and a Venetian trowel are used to apply the material. For covering under a stone, the material is applied in layers, but not less than two layers. Consider a three-layer coating. The 1st and 2nd layers are applied with a trowel. Spread the plaster in an uneven layer with the edge of a trowel from dry to wet. This method of application avoids traces of the initial points of contact between the tool and the surface. The 1st layer dries for an hour or two, depending on the humidity in the room being repaired. The dried surface is cleaned with a spatula or trowel. Then the next layer is also applied, which also dries for a couple of hours. After drying, the wall is treated in the same way as after the first layer. The third layer is applied with a spatula "on the sder". As a result, the layer is translucent.

After 30-50 minutes, you can start ironing, glossing the surface on which the drawing should appear. The difficulty of this stage is to prevent the formation of scratches and scratches on the hardened material. Then it will be impossible to fix the defects. Therefore, the iron must be done very carefully. The surface is ready, provided that the finishing is carried out in a dry room. In the case of the intended use of the coating in a damp room, or if it is planned to be subjected to constant wet cleaning, the application of decorative wax is required on the surface.

The surface is covered with wax with a spatula or a trowel 24 hours after the application of the finishing layer of plaster. The material is applied evenly with a thin layer on the sdir, otherwise it will crack and flake off. After applying the wax, after 30-50 minutes you can start polishing using a polishing machine or an electric drill with a wax polishing attachment. The attachment is used from a soft material. The frequency should not exceed 3000 rpm, otherwise the wax will burn. Sanding is done until a uniform glossy surface is formed. After polishing, the wax acquires a gloss of up to 80%. The wax dries completely in only two weeks.

Required tools and fixtures:

• a bath with a fur roller;

• spatulas 30 cm and 15 cm;

• Venetian trowel;

• electric drill (mixer nozzle);

• polishing machine (wax polishing attachment).