What types of palms are the most frost-resistant. My theory of wintering palms outdoors

This article is just my humble and subjective opinion, a generalization of my own and other people's experience. How to cover a palm tree and which palm tree is better you decide for yourself. I'll just write what I know about palm trees.

Palm tree in own garden- not in a film, not in a TV series, not in a computer game, not in a picture, but in my own flowerbed, this is my # 1 dream to the core. Of all the plants, palm trees are my favorite. Any. But most of all I admire those species that have endurance, and therefore can winter in open ground temperate climate. Personally, I saw with my own eyes individual palm trees in Krasnodar, Stavropol, Mineralnye Vody, Rostov-on-Don (we do not take Crimea and the coast of the Krasnodar Territory - there are subtropics). I devoted a lot of time to searching for species and variations of frost-resistant palms, the peculiarities of their growth and development.

So, first, let's define a list of frost-resistant palms.

No. 1 Sabal Small (-23)
No. 2 Trachikarpus Fortune (-15)
No. 3 Hamerops Squat (-13 -15)
No. 4 Washingtonia Filamentous (-12)
No. 5 Butya Head (-10)
No. 6 Date Canary and Palm (-8 -10)

This is a group of the most common palms that can be easily purchased as seeds or saplings. The most affordable of them, which can be bought almost everywhere (at least here), are Trachikarpus Fortune and Washingtonia Filamentous. After them, according to availability, there is a Palmchaty Date - its fruits (dried dates) are sold in markets and shops, and the seeds sprout very easily and amicably. There is also a group of rare palms that are quite difficult to find. Personally, I live in the Krasnodar Territory and so far I have never found any of them, even when I was in Sochi.

Porcupine Palm (-27)- this palm tree is a champion not only in frost resistance - it cannot be found on sale
Jubaea Chilean (-20)
Sabal Palmetto (-18)
Trachikarpus Wagner (-18)
Eritea (-12)
Brachea (-12)
Nanorops Ritchie (-12)
Livistona Chinese (-5)

Such palms as Nanorops, Brachea, Erithea naturally live in deep deserts and therefore they need zero dryness all the time - both in summer and in winter. In humid and damp climates, they have little chance. Some attribute Wagner's Trachikarpus to Fortune. Personally, I have never seen it for sale - i.e. This is some kind of mythical palm tree, it seems to be there, but I have not seen it anywhere in the vicinity. If Trachikarpus Fortchuna is a palm tree number 1 in Sochi, then Wagner's Trachikarpus should grow up to Novorossiysk, if we take increased frost resistance. For my taste and color, there is no difference between Fortune and Wagner, and the name of Wagner with increased frost resistance is nothing more than a marketing ploy. I repeat, if this palm tree were so hardy, it would have grown steadily for a long time, and by self-sowing along the entire coast. Whoever thinks otherwise, write, argue, it will be interesting for me to read.

The numbers -27, -23 should not mislead you. I will explain a little below, now let's talk about the conditions for the successful wintering of palm trees.

No palm tree that grows outdoors will survive the winter uncovered! In winter, a palm tree is affected not only by frost, but also by high humidity, excessive cold precipitation in the form of snow and rain, which, moreover, accumulate in the most important and gentle - at the point of growth of the palm tree, as well as wind. Remember yourself - you are colder when the humidity is high and the wind is blowing. When it is dry, the frost is easier to survive. The same is with the palm tree, for successful wintering it needs to be protected from wind and moisture. This is the foundation through which you increase her stamina. Also, most palms (except Trachikarpus) are not very fond of prolonged small frosts, when warming does not occur at least to +1. All palms tolerate frost perfectly in the "swing" mode - i.e. when at night, let's say -5-8, and during the day, defrosting occurs at least to +1 and higher, i.e. during wintering, it is advisable to arrange temperature drops for them - what they see in nature. But still the main rule is that there is no wind and moisture in the shelter of the palm tree.
This was the first point - the absence of wind and moisture.

The second point - I recommend heating the palm tree with a New Year's garland. Economical, guarantees wintering of the palm tree, ease of operation, plus New Year's beautiful. Instead of a garland, you can use wires from underfloor heating systems, de-icing cables for the pipeline.
Without heating, it is possible to grow only Sabal Small, Porcupine Palm and Trachikarpus Fortchun, and only in the southern regions, and you will still be nervous because of unexpected frosts. North of Rostov everyone needs heating. It is better to let the garland hang even on Trachikarpus for insurance, in order to turn on several times during the winter. Winter is very relaxed in my region, but this unpredictability is deceiving - once or twice it can drop to -20 at night. And this is the most offensive - when some pitiful 2 winter nights can decide the fate of half of the garden. It is for such a case that a garland will come in handy, which you just turn on and it will shine, it will also warm the palm tree, and the agrospan shelter will keep warm.
Palm trees such as Washingtonia Filamentous, Boothia Capitate, Hamerops Squat, Dates (especially Dates) are grown only with heating, even in the southern regions.

An important point: not a single palm tree will survive the frosty winter if it is in juvenile ("child") age - ie. seedling.

The most important and at the same time vulnerable part of a palm tree is the growing point - the place from where the leaves grow. The most important thing in the shelter process is to ensure that moisture does not get there in any form. The worst thing is if water or snow got there and froze there. Palms usually have one point of growth (except for bush palms) and if it dies, then the whole palm tree dies.

The trunk is the most stable part, because the same point of growth is hidden inside, the thicker it is, the more it will protect from frost. Although it is written everywhere that only adult plants can withstand frosts, I recommend that you plant seedlings 60-100 cm in size (their trunk begins to form) - in this case, the palm tree has already passed its juvenile stage of growth, but at the same time it is still relatively small , which in the future will positively affect its adaptation and habit to the climate in which it was planted (it will release tougher leaves, form a thicker trunk - in order to better hide the growth point, its roots will go deeper into the ground, where their frost will not reach ). This will not work with an adult palm tree. When the palm tree is large, the trunk can be insulated a little less and save on this.

The roots are a medium-hardy part of palms, with the exception of Dates - their roots are very capricious and do not like cold, especially in combination with dampness. The palm tree will eventually take root deeper from the surface, after realizing where it was planted. So you do not need to think for it and deliberately deepen it yourself when planting - on the contrary, it will aggravate the situation when moisture will accumulate in this underestimation, which will stagnate and contribute to decay.
Always repot your palms very carefully as their roots are very delicate and capricious and do not tolerate interference, therefore, if a palm tree is grown in the open field, then on an ongoing basis, because more than one palm tree does not like frequent transplants.

Palm leaves are sensitive to cold winds. Therefore, in the off-season, when it is too early to cover, but cold winds are strong, I recommend tying the leaves in a bunch - this will prevent their possible disheveledness. When sheltering, it is important that the leaves touch as little as possible the walls of the shelter, which come into contact with snow, ice, water and winds from the street. The shelter should be multi-layered.

Palms adapt well to new conditions for themselves, with each next winter the palm is a little more hardy (in terms of leaf stiffness, growth rate, root depth, trunk thickness).

Also keep in mind that when frozen, bush palms can recover from dormant shoots, forming new growth points, and trunk palms cannot do this, with rare exceptions. So bush palms have a slight edge.

Now let's go through the groups of palms:

American palms from the humid southeastern United States... These are Sabal Small, Porcupine Palm, and Sabal Palmetto. The first 2 grow in the form of bushes no higher than 2 meters. Both are very frost-resistant, you see, the numbers -23 -25 -27 are impressive. But there is one BUT ... They can withstand these temperatures if they are short, i.e. if such a frost hits a covered palm tree for a couple of days, then nothing terrible will happen. If such frosts last more than a week, then the palm tree has no chance. Another important factor for these palms to achieve this frost resistance is long, hot and very humid summers, like in the southeastern United States. That is why they lose to Trachikarpus Fortune, who does not care what the temperature is in summer. Together, these 3 factors provide palm trees with such frost resistance. Also, these palms can recover from freezing, albeit very slowly, growing from dormant shoots. They grow better in partial shade, because grow in nature in tropical forests.

Sabal Small. It looks like the Porcupine Palm. photo from the resource forum.homecitrus.ru

American palms from the dry southwestern United States... Here I will only talk about Washingtonia Filamentous. This also includes powerful Washingtonia, Erithea, Brachea, but they are less hardy and more rare. So, Washingtonia Thread. The second easiest purchase after Trachikarpus Fortune. It has a high growth rate and is drought-resistant. If it freezes over, it can quickly restore the crown. He does not really like high humidity in winter, because in nature it grows in the dry climate of California and Arizona. It tolerates frost better in the "swing" mode, i.e. when temperatures are negative at night, and positive during the day (defrosting), he loves temperature changes, like other desert plants such as Agave, Yucca and cacti. Ideal conditions for such plants are -5 +5 at night, +15 +20 in the daytime in complete dryness. In Washingtonia filamentous, a skirt is also very effectively formed from old dead leaves, which are in no hurry to fall off.

Washingtonia Thread photo from the resource florainhouse.ru

South American palms... These are the feathery palms of Butea Golovchataya, Yubeya Chilean. Butea is a more common palm tree, there is an abundance of it in the city of Sochi, so I'll tell you about it. Grows in Argentina, Uruguay. The growth rate is good, and the adult palm will not be gigantic. The height of an adult palm is 3-4 meters. However, this palm is ideal if you want to have a feathery palm. In terms of temperature, she does not need an excessively hot summer. Frosts endure with a prerequisite daytime defrost. Drought resistance is average.
Yubeya Chilean grows very slowly and is gigantic in size. If it theoretically grows with you to its size, then you will no longer cover it. Plus, Yubei is hard to find.

Butea Capitate. photo from the resource lvgira.narod.ru

African-arabic palms... To them I will take the Canary Date and the Finger Date. Both grow quickly, but their disadvantage is the gigantic size of adult trees, which are difficult to cover for the winter. Both tolerate up to -10, but for this palm, complete, absolute dryness during wintering is very very important, because naturally they grow in deserts. Even if on your site groundwater do not run very deep, then Dates have no chance, because their roots cannot stay in cold water for months. At the same time, Dates are extremely drought-resistant due to the fact that the roots can penetrate very deeply in search of water.
Note: To maintain a moderate height, palm trees in Arab countries are planted in a very deep hole (it is also easier for young seedlings to find water when deepened), and as the palm grows, the trunk is sprinkled with sand. But with us, this option is very dangerous for the tree, because moisture will accumulate in the deepening in winter and if it is underestimated, then the Date can get groundwater by its roots.

Date Canary. Fingertip is not very different. photo from the resource 1landscape.ru

European palms... There is one species here - Hamerops Squat. It is also drought-resistant, tolerates frosts down to -13-15. The advantage of this palm is its beautiful bushy shape. It will not grow higher than 3 meters. The advantage of Hamerops is the presence of several points of growth - if the tree freezes to the roots, then it can grow from dormant buds. Slender tall palms cannot boast of such an ability, they have a growing point in the overwhelming case, and if it dies, then the whole palm tree also dies. Very very rarely, in exceptional cases, palm trees such as Dates and Washingtonia can form new shoots. In winter, it is also completely dry in the shelter.

Hamerops Squat. photo from the resource www.pinterest.com

Asian palms... I will consider only 1 view, but what kind! Trachikarpus Fortune is a versatile palm tree. Withstands up to -15 frost. At the same time, she absolutely does not care what the temperature will be in summer. Unlike palm trees from the southeastern United States, it does not need hot and humid summers to build up strength against frost. It will grow well in cool (+17 +20) and hot conditions (+30 +35). In addition, this palm tree grows to an adequate size (3-6) meters. Its main winter advantage over all other palm trees is that it is not afraid of condensation, winter humidity and dampness. Of course, it is advisable to ensure dryness, but there will be nothing terrible if moisture still gets through. Growth rate in open field is good. Also, this species tolerates long, light frosts, while other palms require daily defrosting, and for others it is completely obligatory (Dates). This ability is very useful in the conditions of the Russian winter. In general, you should try to ditch this palm tree, with complete care in winter and summer there will be no problems.

Trachikarpus Fortune. photo from the resource forum.gardener.ru

All of these palms need a cold wintering, ideally between +1 and +8 degrees. This is the temperature of winter in the subtropics. Palm trees tolerate frost, because grow in the subtropics, which border the temperate zone, from which Santa Claus sometimes looks into the subtropics. Palms tolerate short-term frosts well - during the day. How can we provide them with such conditions in a frosty winter? More on this below.

Now about the numbers. Let's say Trachikarpus can withstand -15, but again the effect of such a temperature should be as small as possible. And this figure means the border on which the palm tree will simply survive, i.e. will drop foliage, etc. Such numbers should not lead to premature joy, they will help you when the palm tree is already covered. Without shelter, I repeat, there is no chance to keep the palm tree in good condition. Even under the conditions of Krasnodar, Trachikarpus, if it does not take cover, then hibernates completely losing its crown, if it hibernates ... And then it grows rather slowly all summer.

So how do you cover your palms?

Here people are divided into two groups - the first builds bulky foam boxes, and the second decorates them with New Year's garlands. It all started with the construction of a box, but then I realized that it was very difficult, cumbersome, very ugly, when half of the yard was in gray boxes, costly, and most importantly - what to do and what to do when the palm tree grows? The box is suitable for either small palms or palms that grow as bush. Plus, near the box you will have constant dances with a tambourine, tk. Whether the palm tree survives or not depends on the severity of the winter.
As a result, I joined the second group of palm growers.

This method guarantees a successful wintering of the palm, but requires electricity. I warm palm trees with ordinary garlands - those that decorate a Christmas tree on New Year, but for heating you need a garland with incandescent bulbs only , LED does not emit heat. I rarely turn on the heating (garland), only when the temperature drops below 10 degrees, we have such temperatures, as a rule, at night, so in general, over the winter, the garland burns for 2 weeks (I repeat - in total, because winter is not stable). It burns mainly at night. For shelter and heat preservation, the usual white Agrospan-60 is used.

You will say that this method requires uninterrupted electricity. So it is so, but you should take into account that the heat generated by the garland is retained by the agrospan, and the shelter cools down for a long time, and when it cools down completely, the frost resistance of the palm trees will come in handy - in a dry shelter, the palm tree will easily endure one evening / morning / day / night without heating, because in an agrospan shelter it is dry and calm, which is already a significant plus. If the electricity is turned off, it will not be for long, if it is cut off for a week, then this should already be very good reasons, and then there will be no time for palm trees. 1 time my light was turned off during frost. But the palms did not notice this, which confirms my theory.

With heating from a garland, you can grow anything - olive, oleanders, citrus fruits, and so on. A garland is needed for those plants whose frost resistance is in the region of -5 -10 -15 degrees.

As for the savings, I will say - does 1 Christmas tree garland consume a lot? No, because they are all hung on New Year's trees in heaps of 5 garlands each and no one thinks about receipts. Personally, I have no difference in receipts. However, it gives off a lot of heat in a confined space, it can be compared in terms of heat transfer with a heater (which eats electricity with "buckets").

Regarding the beauty and lightness of the structure, you can easily cover a palm tree alone, materials for shelter are cheap - an agrospan costs about 50-60 rubles per meter (you need 4-5 meters and this is with a margin), and a garland costs 200- 400 rubles. Plus, you keep the beauty of your yard. It's one thing when there are bulky gray lifeless boxes in the yard, and quite another when slender glowing columns stick out, which also help create a New Year's mood in your yard. After all, many decorate the walls of houses, fences, awnings, ordinary trees with garlands. Isn't it better to hang garlands on unusual trees? I think it's worth trying.

P.S. At the moment, in the open field, I have 2 palm trees wintering - Washingtonia Filamenta and Trachikarpus Fortune. On both of them there is a garland. Both almost disappeared, and not because of the frost, but because of my mistakes in hiding, which I corrected in time. In the spring, when opening, I will lay out more detailed instructions on the shelter of palm trees, with a photo report, I will describe my mistakes, tk. there are also many subtleties so that you do not commit similar ones, and most palmaholics do not like to reveal their secrets for some reason. As they say, it is better to learn from other people's mistakes. While we wait for spring

A palm tree in my own garden - not in a movie, not in a TV series, not in a computer game, not in a picture, but in my own flowerbed is my dream number 1 to the core. Of all the plants, palm trees are my favorite. Any. But most of all I admire those species that have endurance, and therefore can winter in the open field of temperate climates. Personally, I saw with my own eyes individual palm trees in Krasnodar, Stavropol, Mineralnye Vody, Rostov-on-Don (we do not take Crimea and the coast of the Krasnodar Territory - there are subtropics). I devoted a lot of time to searching for species and variations of frost-resistant palms, the peculiarities of their growth and development.

So, first, let's define a list of frost-resistant palms.

The numbers -27, -23 should not mislead you. I will explain a little below, now let's talk about the conditions for the successful wintering of palm trees.

An important point: not a single palm tree will survive the frosty winter if it is in juvenile ("child") age - ie. seedling.

Palms adapt well to new conditions for themselves, with each next winter the palm is a little more hardy (in terms of leaf stiffness, growth rate, root depth, trunk thickness).

Also keep in mind that when frozen, bush palms can recover from dormant shoots, forming new growth points, and trunk palms cannot do this, with rare exceptions. So bush palms have a slight edge.

Now let's go through the groups of palms:

South American palms... These are the feathery palms of Butea Golovchataya, Yubeya Chilean. Butea is a more common palm tree, there is an abundance of it in the city of Sochi, so I'll tell you about it. Grows in Argentina, Uruguay. The growth rate is good, and the adult palm will not be gigantic. The height of an adult palm is 3-4 meters. However, this palm is ideal if you want to have a feathery palm. In terms of temperature, she does not need an excessively hot summer. It tolerates frost with the obligatory condition of daytime defrosting. Drought resistance is average.
Yubeya Chilean grows very slowly and is gigantic in size. If it theoretically grows with you to its size, then you will no longer cover it. Plus, Yubei is hard to find.

African-arabic palms... To them I will take the Canary Date and the Finger Date. Both grow quickly, but their disadvantage is the gigantic size of adult trees, which are difficult to cover for the winter. Both tolerate up to -10, but for this palm, complete, absolute dryness during wintering is very very important, because naturally they grow in deserts. Even if at your site the groundwater does not run very deeply, the Dates have no chance, because their roots cannot stay in cold water for months. At the same time, Dates are extremely drought-resistant due to the fact that the roots can penetrate very deeply in search of water.
Note: To maintain a moderate height, palm trees in Arab countries are planted in a very deep hole (it is also easier for young seedlings to find water when deepened), and as the palm grows, the trunk is sprinkled with sand. But with us, this option is very dangerous for the tree, because moisture will accumulate in the deepening in winter and if it is underestimated, then the Date can get groundwater by its roots.

Hamerops Squat. photo from the resource

Trachikarpus Fortune. photo from the resource

So how do you cover your palms?

This method guarantees a successful wintering of the palm, but requires electricity. I warm palms with ordinary garlands - those that decorate a Christmas tree for the New Year, but a garland is needed for heating with incandescent bulbs only , LED does not emit heat. I rarely turn on the heating (garland), only when the temperature drops below 10 degrees, we have such temperatures, as a rule, at night, so in general, over the winter, the garland burns for 2 weeks (I repeat - in total, because winter is not stable). It burns mainly at night. For shelter and heat preservation, the usual white Agrospan-60 is used.

With heating from a garland, you can grow anything - olive, oleanders, citrus fruits, and so on. A garland is needed for those plants whose frost resistance is in the region of -5 -10 -15 degrees.

P.S. At the moment, in the open field, I have 2 palm trees wintering - Washingtonia Filamenta and Trachikarpus Fortune. On both of them there is a garland. Both almost disappeared, and not because of the frost, but because of my mistakes in hiding, which I corrected in time. In the spring, when opening, I will lay out more detailed instructions for sheltering palm trees, with a photo report, I will describe my mistakes, tk. there are also many subtleties so that you do not commit similar ones, and most palmaholics do not like to reveal their secrets for some reason. As they say, it is better to learn from other people's mistakes. While we wait for spring

What are palm trees? What types of palms grow on our Black Sea coast? Can they be grown at home? Which ones can you grow yourself from seeds? We will try to answer these questions. For a start - general information.

The leaves of palm trees are characterized by a feathery and fan-shaped type. The petioled leaves are arranged spirally. Flowers are unisexual or bisexual. The fruit is a drupe or a nut.

Palm trees grown at home from seed are in a rosette state for a long time, and only after the rosette reaches the required diameter, the stem begins to grow in height. This feature makes it possible to keep young, grown from palm seeds in indoor conditions... The following types of palms are most suitable for this: Canary date, cauliflower, sabal palmetto, low camops (stocky), washingtonia thread-bearing, Fortune trachycarpus.

Canary date

The Latin name is Phoenix canariensis Chahand. This plant is dioecious, evergreen. It develops like a tree, but looks more like a large, wide bush 10-20 m tall, with a massive, unbranched false trunk, covered with the bases of old leaves.

In the open ground on the Black Sea coast, the palm tree reaches a height of 12-15 m. The leaves are large, up to 4 m. There are sharp needle-shaped spines at the edges of the leaf petiole.

This palm tree blooms in the summer-autumn period. Male inflorescences up to 2 m long, female inflorescences are shorter. The fruit is ovoid, yellowish-brown, 2.5 cm long, with coarse flesh, slightly edible. Propagated by seeds.

Date palm edible

The Canary Dates should not be confused with the edible Finger Dates (Phoenix dactylifera). Unfortunately, seeds extracted from the fruit of an edible date do not germinate well - after all, before the dates reach the consumer, they significantly lose their germination. In addition, the temperature required for germination, 20-25 ° C, can be maintained only in greenhouses and greenhouses.

The city of Basra in southern Iraq is considered the world capital of edible dates. 420 varieties of this species are concentrated here. Arabian wisdom says that "with its base, a palm tree should stand in the water, and its top should be buried in the hot rays of the sun."

Finger dates are a dioecious plant. The ancient Egyptians and Greeks hung several male brooms inside the crowns, pouring out pollen, since without artificial fertilization, female specimens are without fruit.

Butya capitate

The Latin name is Butia capitata. This type of palm tree is native to Brazil. It grows in mountainous areas on sandy soils. The buttock trunk has a characteristic capitate thickening at the base, gradually tapering upward.

The emergence of new leaves begins in April and continues until the end of September. During the growing season, from 4 to 9 leaves are formed, and each lives up to 7 years.

The palm tree is beautiful with its openwork crown, lush inflorescences and fruits.

In the open ground of the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus, butia begins flowering and fruiting from 10 to 12 years of age. In indoor conditions, it rarely blooms.

In the butie, the seed is rounded, oblong, pointed at the ends, up to 20 mm long and 10 mm wide, with three distinct sutures. In the lower part there are three rounded pores closed with loose corky tissue - this is the place where the embryo exits.

The seeds contain about 60% liquid coconut oil. The fruits of the boutique are used in raw food and for the manufacture of jams and liqueurs.

Before germination of butia seeds, it is recommended to carry out their long-term stratification in wet sand or peat. Mechanical stratification is possible - filing of seed shells or neat destruction of corked tissue with a sharp metal object.

Freshly harvested seeds germinate after stratification for 35-45 days. In some cases, the process can take up to 24 months.

Butya capitate frost-resistant - it can withstand temperatures down to -10 ° C. Drought-resistant. Grows well on sandy soils.

In indoor conditions, butia requires regular watering, and in the summer the plant must be fed with flower fertilizers once every two weeks. For her, use the palm potting pot mix available in stores.

Sabal saw palmetto

This type of palm (lat. Sabal palmetto) is native to North America. Its single trunk in the open field reaches a height of 20 m. The leaves are fan-shaped.

Inflorescences up to 2 m long. The fruit is a black spherical drupe.

On the Black Sea coast, sabal saw palmetto blooms and produces viable seeds that usually germinate within four months.

Stratification at 35 ° C (about one month) shortens germination time. Soaking in hot water(about 90 ° C), and especially, removing the cap above the embryo also accelerates seed germination. At home, young, not yet opened, leaves are used for food, as vegetables, they are called "palm cabbage!"

Hamerops squat

The botanical name for this type of palm is Chamaerops humilis. Came to Europe from Africa. It has been cultivated in greenhouses for over 300 years. It is a bushy palm tree with several trunks 2-3 m high, growing from a common base. In the Sochi arboretum of the Research Institute of Gorlesecology there are specimens with 7-10 or more trunks in the bush.

The palm tree grows slowly. During the summer, it forms up to 7 leaves, which usually live for 7 years. Blooms in May-June. The fruit is a drupe, ripens in November-December.

The palm is drought-resistant, undemanding to the soil. Propagated by seeds.

The seeds in the pulp of the fruit do not germinate. After removing the pulp, germinate within 2 months at room temperature. Removing the cap causes accelerated germination of seeds in 11 days.

Washingtonia filamentous or filamentous

The Latin name is Washingtonia filifera. She is native to the southwest of North America. This is a very beautiful fan palm. The trunk in its homeland reaches a height of 30 m. The leaves are fan-shaped with openwork thin threads hanging between the segments of the leaf.

Compound inflorescences. Flowers are bisexual with strong smell... The fruit is a non-opening drupe.

It blooms and bears fruit abundantly on the Black Sea coast; fruits ripen in December. This is one of the fastest growing palms.

Easily propagated by seeds. Germination rate 80-90%. At a temperature of 35 ° C in greenhouse conditions, seedlings appear on the seventh day. Under normal conditions - within a month.

This type of palm tree will look good in spacious rooms - halls, offices, greenhouses. Care is easy, but there is one feature - in winter it will feel more comfortable in cool conditions. If you cannot maintain the temperature in the room no higher than 20 ° C (preferably 15-18 ° C), then the dishes with the plant should be kept in a pan with water and sprayed daily. At high temperature indoors and dry air, it can shed leaves.

Seeds remain viable for up to 5 years.

Trachikarpus Fortune

This type of palm (lat.Trachycarpus fortunei) in its homeland, in China, Burma, Japan, grows up to 10 m.At the top of the trunk it forms a bunch of fan-shaped leaves, the petioles of which reach a length of 0.5 to 1.5 m. Flowers are unisexual, dioecious , collected in large paniculate inflorescences. The fruit is a drupe. Bears fruit abundantly from 20 years. Blossoms in May; fruits ripen in December-January.

It is the hardest of all fan palms.

Undemanding to the soil. Easily propagated by seeds. The seeds germinate within a month.

It is recommended to transfer young plants in indoor conditions once a year into larger pots. This speeds up their growth and makes it possible to remove rotten and dried parts of the root. All transplanting work must be carried out in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season.

Trachikarpus Forchuna tolerates transplantation well in adulthood.

In many places on the Black Sea coast, it produces abundant self-seeding and runs wild.

Sochi palm trees under the snow. On the right - a group of palms Trachikarpus Fortchuna, on the right - Butea capitate. The photo was taken on Vinogradnaya street, near the Chebotarev hotel.

Due to the high mountains blocking the path of cold northern winds and the warm sea that accumulates heat during the summer months, the average annual temperature in Sochi is +14 degrees, and the average long-term temperature of the coldest month of January is almost + 6 ° C, which makes it possible for many exotic species to grow plants, including representatives of the Palm family.

Russia is big, but palm trees grow only here, on a small patch of land that stretches for 145 kilometers along the Black Sea coast. Therefore, it is not surprising that the first place on which the eyes of the guests of the city of Sochi stop are palm trees. Earlier I already wrote about, today we will talk about palm trees.

Trachycarpus

Trachycarpus fortunei

Group of Trachikarpus Forchuna, which appeared as a result of self-seeding.

Trachikarpus Fortune's species (Trachycarpus fortunei (Hook.) H. Wendl., 1861) most often found on the streets of the city. Homeland of this palm tree Southeast Asia (primarily China) and the Himalayas, therefore it is also called the Chinese fan palm. Trachikarpus Fortchuna feels excellent in the Russian subtropics, blooms profusely, bears fruit, reproduces well by self-sowing (You can easily find seedlings under many trees)... Some representatives reach a height of 20 meters. Probably, this is the most frost-resistant type of palm trees in Sochi. The northern border of distribution extends even beyond the boundaries of Sochi, up to Tuapse. Some very weakened representatives of this genus can be seen even in the Hot Spring.

In addition, in the Sochi Arboretum, you can see other representatives of this genus: Trachycarpus high - Trachycarpus excelsa (has an elongated leaf blade), Wagner's Trachikarpus - (has a reduced leaf blade. Homeland - South China), Trachycarpus Martius - Trachycarpus Martiana (homeland - Eastern Himalayas), Trachycarpus Taquil - Trachycarpus takil (Eastern Himalayas).

Butia

Butya capitate (Butia capitata)

Grove of Butia capitate. In the background, Washingtonia filamentous, in the foreground a small tree of Trachikarpus Fortune

On the streets of Sochi, of this genus, Butiya capitate is most often found (Butia capitata)... As a rule, the height of this palm tree does not exceed five meters. The bluish-gray feathery leaves of Buttia gracefully bend in the form of an arch. In addition, the palm tree forms an edible tasty fruit that can also be used to make jam. (to my taste it looked like apricot) or wine (by the way, not bad either).
The most frost-resistant of the Butea genus is the Butea hairy-cover species. (Butia eriospatha) as well as its various hybrids. In addition, in Sochi you can find the following types: (Butia eriospatha), Butea yatai (Butia yatay)... and Boothia Bonnet (Butia bonnetii)... The native land of these palms is Brazil. According to some reports, Butea forms hybrids with Yubey, but this information needs to be verified.

Jubaea

Jubaea Chilean in the Sochi Arboretum

Yubei's Powerful Trunk

In the Russian subtropics, the only representative of this genus is Yubeya Chilean (Jubaea chilensis)... Another name for this representative of the genus is the Elephant Palm, and the really powerful trunk of Yubeya is similar to the leg of an elephant and can reach a height of 18 meters. The trunk ends with a dense "cap" of feathery leaves. The fruit tastes just awful. The specific name speaks about the homeland of origin of Yubeya. The palm is frost-hardy and can withstand short-term temperature drops down to -20 ° C.

Erythea

Erithea armed during flowering in the Sochi Arboretum

In the Sochi arboretum, you can also find several magnificent representatives of the Eritea armed (Erythea armata) and one representative of the species Eritea edible (Erythea edulis)... Erithea can be seen right next to the Villa "Hope", in the heart of the arboretum. The native land of these palms is the arid regions of Northern California and Arizona, where no more than 250 mm of precipitation falls annually. Therefore, it is not surprising that in the past dry summer, the Sochi Eritei released gorgeous inflorescence feathers.

Hamerops (Chamaerops)

Hamerops in the Arboretum

Of the representatives of this genus, on the streets of Sochi, you can most often find Hamerops low (Chamaerops humilis)... Representatives of this species, as a rule, form a bushy form. One trunk usually dominates (its height usually does not exceed 5 meters), other less developed trunks grow at an angle to the surface of the earth or spread. In addition, graceful Hamerops grows in Sochi. The homeland of the plant is the Mediterranean (Southern Europe and North Africa).

Date palm (Phoenix)

Canary date in the Sochi Dendradia

Of this genus on the Sochi coast, the most common date palm is Canary (Phoenix canariensis)... It is a very impressive tall tree with large feathery leaves. The fruits of the Canary date palm, in contrast to the Finger date (real date palm) orange, collected in huge brushes and taste nothing interesting. According to the reference data, syrup is obtained from the fruit, but I have not had to try it.
In addition, in Sochi it is very rare, but you can find Cygadaceous dates and Forest dates.

Sabal

Sabal Palmetto in the Arboretum

Palm trees of this genus are found mainly in the New World from Venezuela to the southern states of the United States. In Sochi, the most common elegant Sabal Palmetto (Sabal palmetto)... In addition, on the streets of the city you can meet Maliy Sabal (Sabal minor), Blackbourne's Sabal (Sabal blacburniana), Sabal shading (Sabal causiarum), Sabal conspicuous (Sabal princeps) and Sabal Bahamian (Sabal bahamensis).

Washingtonia

Alley from Washingtonia, powerful near the Khudekov dacha Nadezhda (Sochi Arboretum)

Two pillars of Washingtonia powerful in the Arboretum

Without a doubt, representatives of the species Washingtonia filamentous (Washingtonia filifera) and Washingtonia is powerful (Washingtonia robusta) this kind can be called the most spectacular palm trees of all found on the coast of Sochi. The huge representatives of these species simply cannot be confused with other types of palm trees. At home (Southwest USA, Northwest Mexico) the height of individual representatives can reach 40 meters.

Livistona?

Representatives of the species Livistona chinensis (Livistona chinensis) can be found only on the territory of the Sochi Metallurg sanatorium and the Kuban Botanical Garden.

In addition, the following types of palm trees are found in single copies in Sochi: (Serenoa repens), Porcupine palm (Rhapidophyllum hystrix), Nanorops Ritchie (Nannorrhops ritchiana), Siagrus Romantsova (Syagrus romanzoffiana), Bismarckia noble (Bismarkia nobilis)... These palms are generally less decorative. Nevertheless, when it is possible to take photos of these representatives of the Palm family, the post will be updated.

Alexey Egoshin (2009)

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It is not so easy to create favorable conditions for the wintering of palm trees. These tropical plants make special demands on winter apartments, which must of course be light-colored. There is often not enough daylight, so additional lighting must be used. Another problem for palm trees in winter is dry air in our houses and apartments. Therefore, it is not always possible to find a suitable room for wintering.

Opportunities for overwintering palm trees

The best place for wintering indoor and tub palms is undoubtedly an isolated winter garden - a heated room with natural light and automatic temperature and humidity control. This is the perfect winter garden. However, few palm lovers have such a room at their disposal. As alternative option you can use a heated greenhouse in which it is easy to create such conditions.

But as for the wintering of tub palms, there is a problem of a different nature. Whether it is a conservatory or a greenhouse, we often encounter some restrictions regarding, first of all, the height of the ceilings. Fortunately, there are now enough different defensive options available for the more hardy varieties of palm trees to hibernate outdoors. The latest technology offer reliable protection from frost, good lighting and warmth. Such solutions are not cheap, but quite acceptable for lovers of majestic palm trees. Everything is possible - from protective covers for tub plants in XXL format, thermal bags for potted plants, to all-season heated tents.

Potted and tubed palms in any garden create a Mediterranean atmosphere. However, in winter period a number of measures must be taken to protect tropical plants from frost.

Wintering options for palm trees:

Potted palms:

In a warm room
In a cool room

Kadka palms:

In the House
In a garage, a cold greenhouse, and similar locations
In the open air

Open field palms:

In the garden

Advantages and disadvantages of rooms for wintering pot and tub palms:

Palm trees in the "winter apartment"

Wintering potted palms

Different types of potted palms are distinguished by their winter hardiness and, accordingly, have different requirements for winter care:

Dipsis yellowish (Dypsis lutescens):

the palm, which is popularly called "areca palm" or "areca", comes from the tropics and subtropics;
needs a well-lit place, but no direct sunlight;
the temperature of the content should be maintained moderately warm, within the range of + 18 ° С - + 20 ° С;
air humidity must be constantly high;
you need to water less often than during the growing season.

Decorative chamedorea (Chamaedorea):

it is called "mountain palm";
prefers a bright and sunny, or semi-shaded room, without direct sunlight, with an air temperature of + 13 ° С - + 15 ° С.
can manage with very little light;
requires more water than other types of palms, but moisture stagnation must be avoided. The cooler it is in the room, the less often you water it.

Coconut palm(Cocos nucifera) - often suggested as indoor plant, however, is not entirely suitable for these purposes:

requires a lot of heat, light and high humidity;
needs constantly moist soil;
in winter, an additional light source is required;
at home, you can grow it for a maximum of two years, it lives longer in winter gardens or greenhouses with appropriate temperature and light conditions.

African or oil palm (Elaeis guineensis):

reaches large sizes, so it can be cultivated at home for only a few years;
needs to a large number heat and light;
high air humidity is of great importance for the palm tree.

Howea forsteriana:

palm tree is easy to grow, tolerates winter well;
it can be kept in semi-shaded rooms at a temperature of + 18 ° C - + 20 ° C, although the plant tolerates a lower temperature (up to + 12 ° C);
in the fall, watering should be reduced, but the earthen coma should not be allowed to completely dry out.

Jubaea chilean (Jubaea chilensis):

the slow-growing yubey is also called the "honey palm";
she prefers a bright room without direct sunlight;
adult specimens are able to withstand light frosts;
a cool room is recommended in winter.

Likuala large (Licuala grandis)

for the well-being of the decorative liquor throughout the year, it is necessary to provide warm conditions of detention. In winter, the air temperature should not fall below + 16 ° С;
the plant requires a lot of bright light, but direct sunlight can damage its beautiful leaves;
The palm tree loves high humidity. In winter, she is provided with moderate watering and sprayed with warm water;
Ideal plant for bathrooms.

Date palm (Phoenix)

in winter, it is recommended to keep the palm tree in a bright room without direct sunlight;
warm or cool content is recommended (the room temperature should not fall below + 10 ° С);
the palm tree loves humid air and frequent spraying, as well as moderate watering.

Rapis (Rhapis)

the palm tree prefers not too lit places;
tolerates dry air from heating well;
the plant is quite resistant to low temperatures, can withstand up to -8 ° С, but + 12 ° С is considered the most optimal.

Wintering tub palms

Most of the potted palms hibernate indoors. While it is easy enough to find a suitable place for low-growing specimens, the choice of a location for large-sized varieties causes certain difficulties. Quite large palm trees are forced to remain in the open air. Often they are provided with sheltered "housing" in the garden or on the terrace.

As a general rule, palms should be kept outdoors for as long as possible. The main thing is that the roots are not cramped in the tub. The earthen coma must not be allowed to freeze. In addition, the substrate in the tub should not be wet.

Kaddy palms should be kept outdoors as long as possible. They are transferred to winter apartments when daytime temperatures do not rise above 0 ° C.
The tubs and the plant itself must be wrapped in a reliable covering material.
The air bubble film has proven itself well.
For sheltering tub plants, special covers are ideal, protecting the plants from frost and cold winds, while allowing light and water to pass through. Special protective mats, made of non-woven fabric or air-bubble film, protect plant trunks from frost. European manufacturers offer special breathable coats for tall-trunked palms up to 1.50 m long.
The protective covers for tub plants are usually up to 3.60 m long and up to 2.50 m in diameter.

The trunk of the palm tree is wrapped with a protective mat made of sackcloth.

Do not transfer the palm tree directly to a warm place. A sharp temperature drop will not give strength to the plant: the water balance will be disturbed. The leaves will immediately begin to evaporate moisture, and the roots will not be able to provide the plant with water. The substrate in the tub will be too cold and will take some time to warm up. During this period, the plant can dry out.

Some gardeners have a bad habit, depending on the weather conditions, either bring tub plants to winter apartments, then put them back in the open air. This cannot be done, as the plants receive a double shock.
It is recommended to move the tub palms to a bright but cool room. For many of them, these are ideal conditions for wintering.
After that, the plant should be watered with slightly warmed water. This will help warm the substrate and prevent the plant from drying out.
In winter, watering is reduced. The cooler the room where the tub palm is kept, the less often watering should be.
Excess water and a constantly wet substrate weaken the palm, making it vulnerable to diseases and pests.

A cover made of air-bubble wrap is put on the tub.

Palm trees that prefer a cool winter:

Washingtonia - can stay outdoors until the air temperature drops to –3 ° C. However, the tub should be wrapped in protective material in time. For the winter, the palm tree must be transferred to a bright room with an air temperature not higher than + 10 ° C. It is not recommended to place the plant on a cold floor; it is necessary to place it on a portable stand or place a thick piece of polystyrene under the pot. Provide moderate watering so that the soil in the pot is slightly damp. Spray the leaves regularly with warm water.

Trachycarpus (Trachycarpus) is a fairly cold-resistant palm tree, for a short time it can withstand temperatures of 0 ° C and below. The plant requires a cold wintering at a temperature of +12 - + 16 ° C.

The porcupine palm (Rhapidophyllum hystrix) is the world's most frost-resistant palm. Due to its resistance to cold and frost down to -15 ° C, this species is suitable for outdoor cultivation. Keep the palm tree in the tub bright and cool in winter. During this period, watering is reduced; between waterings, the substrate should dry out by 2/3.

Jelly palm (Butia capitata) - can withstand temperatures down to -5 ° C for a short time. This palm prefers a light and cool location; in winter it must be kept at a temperature not higher than about + 12- + 14 ° С, but not lower than + 10 ° С. It is imperative to provide an inflow of fresh air by regularly ventilating the room. In winter, watering is reduced, however, overdrying the earthen coma is not permissible, since dried leaves are not restored. Spray palm leaves regularly to increase air humidity.

Wintering of tub palms in the open air

This method of wintering is effective only if not only the tubs, but also the plants themselves, are securely wrapped and protected from frost. For this, special devices for winter plant protection are used:

covers to protect the ground parts of tub plants;
mats for tying trunks;
microfiber bags with an insulating base for insulating tubs;
additionally use self-regulating heating cables;
the wrapped plants are additionally covered with snow. Do not overdo it with the amount, so that the crown does not break under the weight of the snow.

Ideal protection of the tub trachikarpus from frost: the tub is wrapped with a coconut mat, the substrate is covered with leaves and spruce branches, then the tub with the plant is placed on a styrofoam plate. The branches (fronds) should be carefully tied up, straw is placed inside and the crown is wrapped in non-woven fiber.

Wintering palm trees in the open field

For planting in open ground, only very hardy species and varieties of palm trees are used. These include some varieties of trachycarpus, in particular, Trachycarpus fortunei, and you can also experiment with porcupine palm or small sabal (Sabal minor). At a young age, none of these plants will survive the winter outdoors. For wintering in the open field, palm trees aged 4 years and older are suitable. In addition, hardening is very important to prevent palm trees from dying. This process consists in the fact that palms grown in rooms and greenhouses with further transplantation into the ground are gradually exposed to more low temperatures close to conditions environment... It is also important to choose the right location, which must be protected from the scorching sun and winds.

Although the roots of open-planted palms are better protected from frost than the roots of plants growing in tubs (with the exception of heated tubs), it is still recommended to take some measures to protect the plants from frost:

The ground around the trunk of the palm tree must be covered with straw, leaves, needles, the trunk itself must be wrapped with air bubble wrap, non-woven fiber, and a protective mat.
For the crown and trunk of the palm, use a special fiber coat, or wrap each part of the plant separately using protective covers.

In severe frosts, it is recommended to additionally wrap the barrel with a heating cable. Alternatively, you can use LED cords like the ones we use for Christmas.
Palm leaves or fronds are less sensitive to frost than the trunk and roots. With secure cover, the cold wind and subzero temperature they will not be harmed.

After winter, palms should gradually get used to the sun. The sun is still low and yet there is a danger that the plants could get sunburn. For tub palms, this is not a problem: at first they are exposed in the morning and in the evening in a shady corner of a balcony or garden, gradually increasing the time spent on fresh air... However, this is not the case with open-planted palms. In this case, shelters are removed from the plants in the morning and in the evening. After an hour or two, they cover again, gradually increasing the time the palms stay without cover until they get used to the sun.

Translation: Lesya V.
"Your Garden"

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