Drainage at the summer cottage: the easiest way to remove excess moisture. Drainage of the site - is it necessary or not, which and where is better to equip, and what is needed for this We do drainage in the garden
A modern summer resident is almost daily faced with a number of problems that arise on his own site. Pest control, fertilizing seedlings, caring for them and watering them is a symbiosis that represents the daily picture of a summer resident. However, the most significant and destructive problem is excessive moisture in the area. This seemingly insignificant problem actually predetermines the presence of problems with the overall yield of the site. Fortunately, summer residents are not alone in this problem, and our article will fully explain which there are the most effective methods drying the site from groundwater.
Excessive moisture in the area, what to do
Excess water on a land plot can create a lot of problems, the main one being a deterioration in the germination of vegetables and fruits and the beginning of their rotting. In order to save your own summer cottage from inevitable problems, of course, it is worth taking urgent measures, making a choice in favor of one or another method of water drainage.
What is a drainage system, types of structures and their features
Dacha drainage is one of the most important components created engineering communications Location on. It is she who helps ground, rain and melt water not to linger on the site and, accordingly, prevents waterlogging. In fact, there are many ways to clear an area of water, but the following types of drainage have proven to be the best:
- Surface drainage (open type);
- Deep drainage (closed type).
Surface drainage on summer cottage is a network of open channels, the outlet and receiving sections of which are performed at a certain angle, preventing soil shattering. This method of protecting against excess moisture on the territory of the summer cottage is perfect for removing water from paths, drains, roofs and awnings. With regard to groundwater, surface drainage at a summer cottage is effective only if a large number and a high level, since the collection of water is carried out exclusively on the surface of the soil.
From the structural side, the greatest efficiency of surface drainage is observed with a ditch width of at least 30-40 cm and an angle of inclination of the side walls of at least 30 degrees, which ensures normal collection of water from the site. Surface drainage is point and linear. The first is intended for local collection of water in separate drainage points. The point surface drainage is connected to the overflow branch channels, that is, the linear drainage. Point drainage of a summer cottage, as a rule, is a kind drain hole, with the help of which water is subsequently removed from the site.
The construction of such pits is incredibly simple, and their effectiveness is ensured only by sufficient dimensions and the correct organization of collection and drainage of water. Elements of linear surface drainage are represented by ditches and canals, evenly located in the areas of the greatest accumulation of ground and other waters. In fact, linear and spot surface drainage is best used in conjunction.
Important!The effectiveness of surface drainage is ensured exclusively by the correct creation of such a system and its regular maintenance, since the ditches quickly become clogged and crumble.
Based on the name, it becomes clear that distinctive feature deep drainage is the location underground. Such a system, like surface drainage, is designed to drain groundwater and rainwater from a summer cottage. This kind of drainage usually, is selected based on the geographical location of the cottage. So, the closed type of water drainage is most appropriate in lowlands and places with natural increased level soil moisture.
In view of design features it is advisable to divide deep drainage into:
- Horizontal;
- Vertical;
- Combined.
Combined execution - a combination of horizontal and vertical types of drainage. It is also not always advisable to use a combination. Pipes with pre-drilled holes for water absorption are used as the main channels. The depth of such channels is about 40-50 cm.
Did you know?Deep drainage is the only method of dealing with high soil moisture and groundwater, in which the entire territory of a land plot can be cultivated and planted.
How to do surface drainage with your own hands
Do-it-yourself surface drainage of a summer cottage can be done quite simply, while ensuring the high efficiency of the measures taken. It should be noted right away that it is this method that is most economical and simple. As mentioned earlier, surface drainage includes a combination of linear and point drainage systems. Thus, in the process of creating an open drainage for a summer cottage, it is necessary to install storm water inlets, drainage systems, protective elements and dig ditches.
The most versatile type of open drainage is a linear system that provides an adequate level of comprehensive protection. This design is simple and does not require any special skills. At the heart of the implementation this method lies the correct drawing up of a plan for a summer cottage - it should reflect all buildings, trees and, of course, the places of the greatest collection of rain and groundwater. Based on this, further it is necessary to mark the path of water drainage into the drainage pit or outside the territory of the site.
Did you know?Often, experienced summer residents, solving the problem of excess water in the suburban soil with the help of drain pits, create a fairly large supply of water for themselves, which is later used for irrigation. This is done by concreting the pit and installing a pump in it.
When making such a plan, remember - water drainage should be carried out in the direction of the slope. In addition, in order to minimize the usable soil area, water drainage paths should be made along the smallest trajectory.
Following ready plan, you need to dig ditches with a depth and width of 30 cm (the volume of the ditch is determined independently, depending on the volume of ground and rainwater). The side walls of the trench must be carried out especially carefully so that in the future there is no shedding. All the trenches indicated on the plan, as a rule, are combined into one and brought to the pit, however, if the water can simply be diverted outside the territory of the site, then you can make them independent of each other.
Finished ditches or a canal system should be covered with a film or tarpaulin, which will allow water to be quickly drained rather than retained. To recreate the geometry of the ditch, the film must be fastened with nails driven into the ground or other available clamps. The film on the side walls, fixed from above, is additionally reinforced with wooden or metal spacers, installed in width every 30-50 cm.
Important! In order to ensure sufficient retention of the foil in the ditch under all circumstances, the retention distance should be as small as possible. It is necessary to remember and understand that thoroughness and accuracy at this stage largely determines the durability and effectiveness of the final result.
It is worth noting - in some cases, the walls and base of the ditch are concreted, which immediately eliminates a number of problems and difficulties, however this method of organization is significantly more expensive, more time consuming and requires certain skills. Further, the drainage of the suburban area, represented by the system or separate channels, must be half covered with chips, woodworking waste and rubble. This is necessary so that the water can circulate freely without any stagnation.
The last layer that needs to be backfilled is loose soil, it is backfilled until the level of the soil is leveled. This part drainage system created for rough cleaning and volumetric drainage of ground and rainwater.
The last step is to install throughout the site drain pipes and storm system... Their volume is insufficient - this is why deep drainage is organized, but they will be useful in the case when the water level is extreme, and the surface drainage of the summer cottage will not fully cope. Thus, surface drainage will completely solve the problem of drainage of rain and groundwater, moreover, it will be efficient, cheap and fast.
How to drain a summer cottage using deep drainage
In some cases, surface drainage does not solve the problem due to the large volume and proximity of groundwater. It is then that it is advisable to create a drainage of a closed suburban area. Deep drainage is distinguished by the ability to completely solve the problem with excessive moisture, and also preserves appearance suburban area.
The beginning of creating a drainage system of this type also begins with the preparation of a plan and a complete drawing of the lines along which the pipes will be laid. The direction of the water discharge is towards the slope. Next, you need to determine the depth of their occurrence. So, in the most dense soil, the depth will be no more than 50 cm, and in sandy soil - up to 1 meter.
You should also consider climatic conditions - it is very important that in cold winter the pipes with residual water in them did not crack, and the freezing soil did not crush them.
As paths for drainage, almost all summer residents and specialists choose perforated plastic pipes... They are cheaper, more affordable, and more durable. In some cases, for additional protection, the pipes are covered with textiles, which prevents sand from getting inside and significantly increases the service life of the entire system.
Routes Wastewater and the place of their reception is prepared with the utmost care. In the case of closed deep systems, it is advisable to dig trenches no more than 50 cm wide, and not cover the side surfaces at all. Drainage of water can be organized both into the drain pit and outside the territory of the site. As in the case of an open system, it is advisable to concrete the pit walls, thus creating a spare container with water, which will certainly come in handy for every summer resident.
After all ditches have been prepared and a groundwater drainage system has been established, they should be prepared for pipe laying. First of all, you need to create an amortization cushion by placing sand and gravel on the bottom (10 cm each). Only after this begins the laying of pipes and their unification into unified system by means of plastic fittings, the choice of which is varied.
Distances on the sides of the drain are also filled with sand and gravel. Textiles should be laid on top of the laid drainage to protect the perforated pipes from the ingress of sand, gravel and soil. The end of the process is filling the drainage with sand (15 cm), crushed stone (15 cm) and soil. The embankment should be made a mound, since over time the earth will settle and level out with the rest of the soil. This type of drainage of the suburban area more costly and complex, however it is different durability and high efficiency, there are simply no equals.
DIY drainage, the easiest way
As it becomes clear from the above, drainage at a summer cottage can be done in many ways, while maintaining the effectiveness of measures, however, most people, of course, for one reason or another, wants to drain the land quickly, cheaply and reliably. It is these requirements that drainage at a summer cottage meets, the easiest way of which we are ready to offer.
Did you know? In most cases, the effectiveness of drainage mainly depends on the ability of the pit to quickly drain water into the soil. Too porous soil will not retain water at all, and the plants simply will not have time to feed, and excessively dense soil will hold water. It is quite simple to determine the porosity of the earth in a specific area - you need to fill the prepared hole with water about half. If the water is gone in less than 24 hours, then the soil is too porous. If even after two or three days the water has not completely gone into the ground, the soil is too dense and the hole is not effective.
The end result of creating a drainage depends on the careful implementation of all recommendations and advice. So, in order to make drainage with your own hands, you need:
Important!After the do-it-yourself drainage is completed, you can walk on it freely. However, nothing should be planted on this soil, even greens, since due to high humidity it will inevitably disappear.
The presented option for creating drainage in your own summer cottage, despite the simplicity, is not only distinguished by high efficiency and durability of the result, but is also available to absolutely every owner of a problem summer cottage.
Due to various reasons, high humidity in summer cottages is quite common, but, despite the seeming problematic nature of this situation, there is absolutely no need to despair, because draining the suburban area can be easily organized with your own hands, having previously studied and applied the methods of drainage of the summer cottage given in the article.
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The need for drainage of the site arises in the area where groundwater is close and there is a significant amount of precipitation. To avoid leaching and waterlogging of the soil, as well as undermining of foundations and flooding of basements, one should professionally approach the organization of the drainage system.
For the first time, a system for collecting and discharging water outside land plots was created in Ancient Babylon, and, despite the fact that after centuries technology has advanced significantly, today the drainage of the site is carried out according to the same principle.
Varieties of drainage systems
By purpose, drainage systems are divided into the following types:
- superficial(open type),
- deep(closed type).
Surface drainage of the site, in turn, is subdivided into:
- point... In the organization of the point system, storm water inlets, sedimentation tanks (drainage drains), storm dampers and ladders are used. Storm water inlets are installed directly under drain roof drains, in doorways, under irrigation pipes and taps, as well as in places where local collection of water is required. A point catchment effectively complements linear drainage where an efficient and fast drainage from the site is required. The water collectors are connected by underground pipes through which water enters the well storm sewer... Point drainage of the site allows you to effectively remove excess moisture that has fallen in the form of precipitation. Mandatory conditions The high-quality work of this system is its regular cleaning and professional maintenance.
- linear... It can be either wall-mounted or remote from buildings. The linear system is represented by trays with gratings designed to receive rainfall that did not fall into the point sewage system. The catchment point is a stormwater well. This option is most relevant for areas where groundwater is not too close to the surface. The storm drainage device does not provide for serious surface preparation. All that is required is to create flat slopes on both sides of the gutter line. This will help reduce the risk of soil shrinkage, reduce the length of storm channels, and increase the catchment area. The drainage system is connected to the stormwater through horizontal and vertical branches. To increase the efficiency of the system, experts recommend equipping it with sand traps;
- ... The construction of the deep system is carried out in areas where groundwater is located at a distance of up to 2.5 meters, and provides for a significant amount of earthworks. Therefore, experts recommend starting its arrangement before starting the construction of a house.
Deep drainage of the site can be:
- trumpet... It is used if the groundwater at the site is deep. To create it, you will need perforated pipes (drains). The pipes are laid underground at a certain slope, moisture enters them through the holes and is transported to the collection points (storage well, drainage tunnel, storm sewer well);
- stratal... One of the most common types of deep drainage systems. It is laid at the base of the building and provides for the organization of a filtering crushed stone cushion.
If heavy rain is possible in your area, it is worth choosing a hybrid system that provides for the organization deep drainage of the site and storm sewers... The storm drain can be either point or linear.
Preparation for the construction of drainage
There are several types of sites that are guaranteed to require a drainage system. These include:
- located on lands with a high clay content - even with light rain, puddles will constantly stand on the site;
- with a high threshold of groundwater;
- with a flat surface, as a result of which water does not have the ability to drain anywhere;
- located at the bottom of the slopes - in case of floods or melting snow, they instantly flood.
The choice of the type of drainage of the garden plot should be carried out based on the territorial relief. However, before thinking about which type of soil drainage to give preference to, you need to know that there are two types of system:
- open;
- closed.
Open system
The easiest way to do it with your own hands in the country is to make an open drainage. It is suitable for those areas where water drainage is needed after precipitation or melting snow. The advantages of this system are the simplicity of the device and the low price. For its implementation, it is required to dig around a residential building drainage ditches, the depth of which should be 0.5 m.
On the side where the water comes from, the trench should have a slope of about 30 degrees in order for the water flow to pass as actively as possible. Thus, the required number of ditches are dug, which are connected into one, ending in a well. Next, you need to check if the slope is sufficient, since if it turns out to be too small, then water stagnation will occur in this place. In such a situation, you just need to change the slope of the sewer ditches so that the moisture can quickly go away even with heavy precipitation.
There is one significant drawback in an open drainage system - an unpresentable look. To compensate for this, the ditches are covered with gravel: they have more large fraction, and at the top - smaller. The material should be large enough, but for the top layer it is permissible to use smaller crushed stone or pebbles.
Closed system
Drainage of a suburban area of a closed (deep) type is used for areas where groundwater is located very high. It will protect the basements of the house from flooding. This method requires more effort and financial costs, compared with an open drainage system, since it cannot do without laying pipes.
The depth of pipe laying depends on the type of soil - 60 cm for clay and 100 cm for sandy. The diameter of the main pipes is 100 mm, and the diameter of the additional pipes is slightly less - 75 mm.
The drainage scheme of a closed-type section is called "herringbone", according to the method of pipe laying. Such a system implies required element: a ditch or well for a drain. The device of this design will require a lot of effort, but it will pay off in dry times, since the water from the gutter can be used when watering the garden.
For the drainage system, corrugated perforated plastic pipes are used. They are environmentally friendly, easy to install, and inexpensive. The process of their installation directly depends on the type of soil on the site.
A high clay content will require the use of a special filter material. If the soil is of crushed stone type, it is necessary to put crushed stone under the pipe (layer, about 20 cm thick). If the soil on the site is loamy, the pipes are wrapped with geotextiles. V Lately you can purchase ready-made wrapped pipes and immediately start self-assembly drainage at their summer cottage.
Tips to help you get the right drainage:
- Decide on type of drainage system
- If there is heavy rainfall on your site, it will take surface drainage... But to lower the groundwater level, a deep drainage system should be organized. In order to determine if a drainage system is needed in your area, a simple test should be performed. Dig a hole 0.6 m deep on the site and fill it with water. If the water is gone during the day, there is no need for drainage, but if water remains in the pit, this means that the soil on the site is quite dense and you cannot do without a drainage system.
- Calculate correctly during the design process system load
- Load degree on the system depends on the characteristics of the soil on the site, the filtration coefficient in different time years, saturation of the soil with moisture, the volume of water inflow. If you are installing a household drainage system, the load on which will be low, you can use polymer drains, plastic trays and grates. If serious loads are foreseen on the system, it is better to refuse plastic elements. Proper drainage in this case will involve the use of channels, gutters and concrete wells.
- Use quality materials.
The efficiency of the drainage system directly depends on the quality of the materials that were used in its installation. Therefore, do not try to create drainage pipes or any other elements of the system yourself. These dubious savings can be a significant waste for you. It is also not recommended to use ordinary plastic pipes. Drainage pipes are not much more expensive than usual PVC pipes... But at the same time, the latter work less efficiently, but they clog up quickly. The best option would be to use rigid corrugated drainage pipes with a smooth inner surface.
- Take care of your filters
Proper drainage of the site involves the use of geotextiles. By wrapping perforated pipes in geotextile, you eliminate the risk of sand getting into them. Also, do not forget about sand traps. These are special devices that are able to trap small debris (sand, plant seeds, leaves, anything that can clog the stormwater). The drainage system, equipped with sand traps, will operate as efficiently as possible, quickly handling significant volumes of fluid.
Drainage of areas on slopes
If your area is on a slope, the first ditch should be dug at the very top of the area. This will prevent waterlogging of the soil in the area below. The second ditch should be parallel to the first and located at the very bottom of the homestead. You can connect the two ditches with a trench, which will later be laid underground pipe... All water from the site will be collected in the lower ditch and drain into a reservoir or drainage well. In order for the walls of the ditch not to crumble over time, they should be performed at an angle 20-30 °. In a similar way, trenches for deep drainage are made using pipes.
It is quite possible to do the correct drainage of an open type with your own hands, and quite quickly. But the installation of deep systems will require certain knowledge and skills, significant labor and time costs.
Construction works
After the materials have been purchased and the place for the future gutter has been determined, the installation of the structure can begin. First, ditches are dug, the bottom of which is lined with geotextiles (it must be laid with a margin). If you do not want to use geotextiles, then sand should be laid on the bottom, in a layer of about 10 cm or a little more. From above, the pipes are covered with expanded clay or very large crushed stone. The topmost layer is the soil removed when digging trenches.
It is necessary to monitor the angle of inclination of the pipes. The correct figure is 7 cm per 10 m of pipe. Parts of pipes are connected with tees or crosses.
The drainage of wastewater usually takes place using a specially made well. The easiest way to assemble it is from reinforced concrete rings, which can be bought ready-made. Another, less expensive option is to use a plastic container.
Pipes are supplied to the installed well. In order for the accumulated liquid to drain freely, a pipe is mounted in the upper part of the well. If this is not possible, then the resulting water is pumped out with a pump.
If you are determined to drain your site, our tips and tricks will help you do it quickly and cost-effectively. It will take several days to complete the entire complex of works.
High humidity in your area is fraught with harmful consequences: water suppresses the root system of plant crops, which provokes their diseases and subsequent death. Moreover, moisture washes away the foundation of the building and outbuildings, so the structures are flooded and begin to quickly collapse. Can these problems be avoided? The best way to prevent them - a drainage device in the suburban area. This procedure is not difficult enough to hire a professional builder - you can do it yourself. And in order for you to succeed, we invite you to learn more about the advantages and features of drainage and get acquainted with the most in simple ways its arrangement.
Why do you need drainage
Each summer resident invariably asks the same question: does his site need drainage so much? You can find the answer yourself - just evaluate your summer cottage territory. Your garden is often overgrown with sedge, there are puddles on the site for a long time after rain, the earth dries for a long time after watering or melting of snowdrifts - the first signs that you cannot do without drainage. In order to be even more convinced of this, conduct a simple experiment: dig a hole 50-70 cm deep - if in a day it is full of water, without hesitation, proceed to the arrangement of the system.
But there are four more conditions for which drainage is required:
- groundwater is very high;
- the cottage is on dense clay soil;
- the site is located on a pronounced slope, or vice versa - in a lowland;
- there is regular rainfall in your area.
As you can see, drainage is indispensable in almost all areas. So, if you want plants and trees to please with their growth, the paths are not deformed, and the dacha is not flooded, start construction work.
Types of systems: surface and deep drainage of the site
When the question of the importance of drainage is closed, decide which system you need. It can be of two types.
Superficial – simplest option drainage. Its functional purpose is to drain water that falls on the land in the form of various precipitations, for example, rain or snow. This system works well on level ground without pronounced slopes. This drainage is essentially a system of ditches located along the entire perimeter of the site. Over time, the water that collects in the ditches is either discharged into a special drainage tank, or simply evaporates. The surface system can be combined with traditional storm sewers.
Deep- closed drainage. Such a system is needed if your site:
- located on uneven terrain;
- located on clay soil;
- has high underground waters;
- for any other reason is difficult to operate.
Deep drainage allows you to effectively protect from increased moisture not only garden and horticultural crops, but also the cottage itself, and all utility rooms.
Advice. Since the installation of a deep drainage system requires serious land work, it is recommended that you engage in it even before you start planting the bulk of the crops. An even more optimal option, if possible, is to arrange drainage in parallel with laying the foundation.
Preparatory work
Drainage is an engineering structure, which is a branched system of trenches and pipes. All its elements are interconnected and scattered, as a rule, along the entire perimeter of the site. Based on the above features, assembly work you cannot start without a clear design of the drainage system.
The following points should be indicated in the project: the location of all drainage trenches, water flow, a diagram of vertical sections of drainage, the location of wells, the depth of the drains. It is also important to determine the size of all components of the system and their bias, regarding top ground... Such a detailed project plan will give you the opportunity to quickly navigate the location of all the elements of the drainage system in the process of its arrangement, that is, it will simply make your work easier.
An important component of pre-construction procedures is the preparation of a set of tools and consumables that are necessary for installation work:
- perforated pipes with a diameter of 75-100 mm;
- parts for connecting pipes - couplings and fittings;
- drainage wells;
- hacksaw;
- ramming tool;
- rail;
- building level;
- geotextile for drainage;
- crushed stone;
- sand;
- shovel;
- a wheelbarrow for the removal of land and the supply of building materials.
Surface drainage system
This type of drainage is technically a simple process.
- Dig a trench along the entire perimeter of the summer cottage: depth - 70 cm, width - 50 cm. Its slope should be at least 25-30 degrees towards the water outlet.
- Dig auxiliary ditches at the same angle.
- Move the trench and ditches to a single drainage well.
Advice. To make sure that the trench is working, do a simple test: pour water into the trench and see if it flows in the right direction, that is, towards the well. If you notice deviations, be sure to correct the angle of the trench walls, otherwise the system will not be able to fully perform its functions.
- Lay drainage geotextiles in the finished trenches.
- Fill the trenches with different-format rubble on the geotextile: two-thirds are large grains, and one-third are small.
- Place turf on a layer of fine crushed stone.
In the second case, the continuation of the construction of the drainage after digging the trench is as follows:
- Prepare plastic drainage trays.
- Pour a layer of sand no more than 10 cm at the bottom of the trench. Tamp it well with a manual rammer.
- Place plastic trays in the trench.
- Install sand traps.
- Install decorative grilles on the trays - they will protect the drainage from debris and leaves, and also give it a nicer look.
Deep drainage in clay soils and other difficult terrain
The algorithm for constructing a deep system in difficult areas is as follows:
As you can see, there is nothing unreal in the device of the drainage system at the summer cottage, so do not be afraid to take on such work yourself. The main thing is to accurately determine the required type of drainage and follow the rules for its installation. And do not forget that by making efforts just once, you can protect yourself from a host of problems in the future, namely, from the death of garden and horticultural crops and flooding of your own summer cottage.
Drainage in the country with your own hands: photo
It is better to entrust the drainage of the suburban area to specialists, however, if this is not possible, then you can try to figure everything out on your own. First of all, it is necessary to disassemble the types of drainage and various schemes its device, as well as its purpose. Drainage is essential because this system protects the house and site from excess moisture. If it is incorrectly installed, then the effect may be the opposite. This will lead to flooding and soil leaching.
Kinds
To begin with, you need to disassemble its types and find out the features of each work.
Drainage happens:
- superficial;
- deep.
Surface drainage can be done without the involvement of craftsmen. This is a relatively straightforward job.
Deep drainage is best done at the stage of building a house.
The structure also needs protection. It often happens that the flow of groundwater penetrates into underground rooms. Water can flood a cellar, garage, underground car park or break room. It all depends on what is below the surface of the earth.
Surface drainage of the site is carried out using various storm water inlets and trays. This type of drainage got its name because the entire system is located on the surface. The trays can successfully cope with the flow of rainwater, as well as moisture that forms as a result of melting snow.
Surface drainage is of two types: point and linear.
- Such a system consists of catchments, which, in turn, are connected to the sewerage system. Water collection devices are usually installed under gutters, in lowlands and under taps.
- Linear. The system resembles a channel that slopes towards a well. This is where moisture from showers comes in.
This is not to say that one type of drainage is better than the other. Often, both varieties are used together for greater efficiency. All devices in the system require regular cleaning, otherwise they will not function properly. A well-organized gutter serves well and does its job.
With point planning, trays are installed, first of all, under the drain pipes of the house. Otherwise, water will constantly fall on the foundation and on the site.
Improper layout will entail the penetration of moisture into underground rooms.
The trays must be installed so that they are underground. They will have to lead pipes to the sewer. The top of the tray is covered with a grate. It is both a protective and a decorative element at the same time. To clean the tray, you just need to lift the grate and remove the debris from the container.
Linear
The linear system has been known for a very long time. It was used back in Ancient egypt and Babylon. Today, only the materials used have changed, but the principle of operation has remained the same.
For drain use plastic or reinforced concrete trays... They are equipped with a grate on top that covers the gutter. The system has garbage collectors that make it easier to care for the trays.
The installation of such systems is necessary in cases where:
- protection of the foundation from rainwater is necessary;
- there is a risk of soil erosion;
- there is a need to drain moisture from sheds, garages and other structures located in the lowlands;
- to protect paths in the garden and suburban areas.
Installation of water drain will not be a difficult procedure, even for a beginner. Its structure is very clear.
Deep
Usually, both types of drainage are installed on the sites: both deep and surface. Such a drainage network will provide absolute protection from moisture.
Before arranging a buried system, it is necessary to determine in which direction the water flows during showers. This indicator is one of the most important.
If you make a mistake with the level of bias, then you can harm yourself with your own work.
You can find out the direction of water flow without exploring the area. To do this, it is enough to wait for the first shower and see where the streams are directed.
The general drainage scheme: a receiving well, drains and a collector that removes excess moisture.
Calculation and design always depend on the characteristics of each specific site. You cannot take and install the same system on everyone. Somewhere additional drainage means are required, but somewhere the simplest device will do. As a last resort, you can refer to the maps to determine the nature of your site. 
Even with map data, you should not neglect additional practical grade verification. If it is not possible to achieve the desired flow direction in some places, you can try to fix it with the help of embankments. However, such a procedure is also not carried out without preliminary calculations. A number of problems can be solved with drain pump... This is a forced drainage system, which is used in cases where it is impossible to create a natural one, or an additional water outlet is required.
Not all types of soils are water permeable. These include clayey. Clay soil is characterized by an excess of moisture. Because of this, the required amount of oxygen does not enter the roots. As a result, the plants die. Dense turf also leads to oxygen starvation of plants.
When arranging a small area with a drainage system, it is not necessary to make a calculation during the design process. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the parameters related to drains:
- bias;
- location according to plan;
- depth of occurrence;
- distance between rows;
- the device of the wellhead and inspection wells.
The natural relief of a site with a slope is best used when constructing a drainage system.
It is easier to work with an inclined area than with a flat one. This is due to at least a decrease in labor costs. All you need is to correctly combine open and closed drain.
Clay soil is dense and heavy, therefore, to improve drainage properties, the soil should be thoroughly loosened. In the process of laying drains, it is necessary to bypass the places intended for the passage of the car.
In peat bogs, the groundwater level is usually high. Because of this, these types of soils are practically not used for growing plants. In peat bogs root system plants simply rot.
Drainage of peat bogs allows you to reduce the level of groundwater to 2–2.5 m. You do not need to do this if the soil has already been drained on your site. This can be easily identified. Drainage was carried out on the site, if there is no stagnation of melt water on it, and the groundwater level during a flood does not exceed 1.5 m.
This is found only on low-lying peatlands or land cultivated by someone. Most often, on peat bogs, you can observe a picture when the water is close, and in spring, even in some places it is not absorbed into the ground. The only exception is the hot summer, when the groundwater level drops significantly, as a result of which the peat dries up and needs watering. Perennial roots suffer greatly during the thaw period in winter or spring. In such a situation, over time, the death of plants is inevitable.
Not everything is so unfortunate. Peatlands can be drained. What can be done to achieve this? If the water is at the level of 0.8-1.2 m, then its excess can be taken away from the site, for example, by planting birch trees or viburnum bushes in the north-western side of the site or outside of it. The fact is that birches actively collect moisture at a distance of 30 m from themselves. So, you will drain the area without obscuring it with these trees.
If the water is closer, then you will have to make a high-quality drainage system. To do this, divide the area into sectors. In this case, the drainage ditches are laid in the slope of the place for collecting water. In the lower corner of the site, dig a sewer well or make an artificial reservoir. All excess water from the peat area will drain into it. If you decide to make a drainage basin in the form of a well, then the accumulated water in the summer drought can be used for irrigation.
Plant moisture-loving fruit / ornamental crops around the pond.
Two ditches should run along the edges of the land plot, transverse ones should be provided for high-quality drainage of the peat bog. For example, for 6 acres it is enough to make 1-2 transverse ditches. In this case, the depth of the ditch should reach about 40-50 cm. When digging a trench, dump the top layer of soil onto the edges of the beds, which will be developed later.
For safety reasons, it is better to make a closed drainage system. The principle of its installation will be described below.
It is impossible for even a small piece of land to accumulate water - melt or rain. If you find such accumulations, then make in such places embankments of soil and sand, as well as fertile soil. The hoses of the drainage system must converge to the well / reservoir.
In peatlands, plants should be grown in raised beds. If the peat dries up in summer due to the heat, then it will need to be watered regularly and abundantly.
In cases where the groundwater level cannot be lowered to the level of 2 m, fruit trees on it will need to be planted on artificial hills with a height of 30-50 cm. Moreover, as the tree grows, the diameter of the mound will have to increase.
Arrangement errors
The most common mistake when arranging a drainage system is that it is installed without proper design. When installing drainage pipes and systems, it is necessary, first of all, to understand the situation. In this case, it is necessary to analyze the site itself and the nature of the groundwater.
For example, water very often affects the foundation. To protect it, you need to design a drainage system when building a house. In this case, it will be necessary to install an additional basement, which will serve as a barrier to groundwater. If the design was done incorrectly, then the situation can only get worse. Groundwater will flow into the basement and act on the foundation. V difficult cases you will have to contact specialists.
Video
Scheme
These diagrams will help you plan the drainage of your site according to your requirements:
The dream of a landscaped suburban area may well become a reality. House territory with luxurious lawns, beautiful garden, a fruitful vegetable garden, gazebos, patios, alpine slides - all this today can be arranged on soil of any quality and lands of any geodetic complexity, the main thing is to correctly approach the solution and not forget about such a procedure as drainage of the site.
This system is expensive, so in order not to get into a mess and not pay twice, you should figure out whether the existing landscape needs water disposal, and if so, what type.
Why do you need drainage on the site
What are the functions of drainage? The tasks of the system are as follows:
1. Collection of melt water.
2. Removal of rainfall.
3. Removal of groundwater beyond the boundaries of the territory.
It is not always advisable to comprehensively drain the soil by laying deep and surface drainage at the same time. Deep drainage systems are required only for swampy soil and those lands where the level of groundwater is high. Linear drainage will not be superfluous anywhere. Seasonal flooding occurs in all climates. In addition, the quality of our soil, in general, leaves much to be desired. Clay soils have poor permeability, which also provokes the formation of puddles.
Linear drainage to prevent puddles
The wetlands are death not only for plants, but also for wooden buildings and decorative structures. At best, they will have to be seriously repaired. At worst, demolish and install new ones. Both situations are financially costly, and if you consider that without a drainage device on the site there is a prospect of engaging in global reconstructions on a regular basis, it makes sense to think about the prevention of water stagnation.
Deep drainage system of the site
When site drainage is required
It will be necessary to deal with the organization of drainage from the ground, provided that the summer cottage is located on a steep slope. To prevent torrential streams from blowing away the fertile part of the soil, it will be necessary to break a surface, but not a point, but a linear drainage system with transversely broken channels that can intercept water and redirect it to the storm sewer.
Drainage of an area on a slope
The reason to do a do-it-yourself drainage device on the site will be its placement in the lowland. In this case, it is initially a reservoir for collecting water flowing down to it. In this version, drainage elements are located along the perimeter of the territory.
Drainage of a low-lying area
A no less scourge and flat areas where water is poorly absorbed by the soil. This is where you need to design a whole system of point or linear drainage systems, covering the entire area.
Puddles gathering and standing for a long time will tell you that the site needs to be drained. Examine the lawn. Assess the condition of the bushes. Check if the soil is rotting. These tips are effective in areas already inhabited. On virgin lands, you will have to focus on what is happening in the district. Did the neighbors prepare a pit for the house and dug holes for the fence supports? Fabulous! Take a look at them. If there is an accumulation of water inside, try to figure out where it flows from. Ask old-timers about the level of water in wells over the past few years. If it turns out that the groundwater is less than a meter from the surface, then most likely it is impossible to do without a drainage device on the site.
Point drainage system
Surface drainage
"Drainage can be done with linear or chiseled drainage"
The simplest solution. The surface system ensures the collection of water from the drains and the territory of the site. Providing rainfall with free drainage paths, it relieves the soil from waterlogging.
Surface drainage provides collection of water from the site
To arrange such a drainage of a site with your own hands, you do not need to involve specialists. There will be no large-scale works. Drainage can be done with linear or cut-out drainage. Point drains are responsible for the local collection of moisture. It can be runoff from roofs, water from irrigation taps. To drain large areas, correctly break up the linear drainage system.
Point drainage is responsible for the local collection of moisture
Surface drainage methods
An open drainage system can consist of both randomly generated grooves and parallel ones. Each circuit has side inlets that carry water that has entered the drain to the central drain. What type of surface drainage device to give preference to should be chosen according to the species of soil and topographic conclusions.
Open drainage channel
Drainage at random site
The ditches of such storm drains are adapted to collecting water from the soil of weak water permeability, where there are extensive low-lying areas of stagnation, the elimination of which by smoothing the surface is impossible or unprofitable.
By and large, random linear drainage is the prerogative of the fields. The ditches scattered across the field do not differ in scale. Most often they are quite shallow and do not intersect with the main drainage lines.
The task of random grooves is to ensure the outflow of moisture accumulated in lowland islands. To make an accidental drainage of a site with your own hands, it is enough just to dig small grooves with an appropriate slope angle. The soil extracted at the same time can be used for backfilling small lowlands.
Linear drainage will allow accumulated moisture to drain away
The channels of field stormwaters should follow through the bulk of the depressions towards the natural slope of the site. Only in this way the territory will be guaranteed full drainage.
Drainage in parallel section
It is rational to equip this type of drainage system on flat, difficult-to-dry soils with numerous small depression flaws. The parallelism of the grooves does not mean that they are equidistant. The step distance depends on the soil conditions.
Closed drain
Deep drainage helps reduce groundwater table
Closed drainage structures are versatile. With no less efficiency than surface drainage, they can drain melt and storm water. Since the system is hidden underground, it does not interfere with landscaping, which makes it quite popular among gardeners.
Vertical drainage
The main elements of this type of drainage system are wells, traditionally arranged near the house. The outflow of the accumulated water in them occurs with the help of pumps.
Drainage of a site of this type is carried out only according to a professionally drafted project. Without engineering knowledge and specific skills, it is not worthwhile to undertake a drainage device on a site with your own hands. Performing the work will require the involvement of specific hydraulic equipment, so leave the solution to this problem to those who know exactly how to do it.
Site vertical drainage system
Do-it-yourself drainage of the site: the main nuances
The choice of the type of drainage system is mainly influenced by the reason for the flooding of the area. Put in order clayey lands, which are characterized by the delay of thawed and atmospheric water, it is possible by arranging surface drainage. The open-type drainage grooves will be quite enough to quickly remove excess moisture from the serviced area.
If groundwater is the cause of basement flooding, erosion of the foundation, and soil swelling, then the problem will have to be solved with a thorough approach, that is, by deep drainage of the soil. Both site drainage options are available as standalone options.
Point drainage
To create a local open drainage network, drawing up a design scheme is not necessary. Its arrangement is natural in the case when the flooding of the site occurs only at certain points and only when there is an excessive amount of precipitation. The most frequently flooded areas are shallow areas: the area near the porch, gazebos. Water will also accumulate in relief irregularities.
Places for the installation of a point drainage system
In the event that the problem area is located near the very borders of the land, in order to ensure the flow, it is rational to drainage on the site with an ordinary dug trench extending beyond its limits.
In steel cases, having noticed the places of stagnation of water, they are equipped with dug-in water intakes or closed reservoirs. With the water collected in them, it will subsequently be possible to water the garden.
Linear drainage
"Ensuring the smooth operation of the surface drainage system is due to the calculation of the correct slope for laying gutters."
Digging ditches across the entire site or certain corners of it - optimal way to de-drain clay soils. Here it will not hurt to sketch out an approximate plan of the future system, on which to mark all the drainage branches and the location of the drainage well, to which it is planned to reduce them.
Example of a linear drainage plan
The smooth operation of the surface drainage system is ensured by calculating the correct slope for laying the gutters. The process of arranging linear drainage systems will be greatly facilitated by the presence of a natural slope at the site. On flat surfaces, you will have to create an angle of inclination artificially. This condition is required. Ignoring it will cause stagnation of the collected water in the drainage channels.
For linear drainage on a flat surface, create a slope angle
How much to lay channels is determined by the absorbency of the soil. The more clayey it is, the thicker the drainage network branches out. The depth of the trenches dug for the drainage of the site with your own hands is about half a meter. The groove width depends on its distance from the storage tank. The widest will be the main branch of the drainage system, where water flows from all parts of the site.
After the drainage system has been dug at the site, they begin to check the quality of its functioning. For this through watering hoses a strong stream of water is launched through the canals. Correctly supply water from several points at the same time.
The assessment takes place "by eye". If the water runs off slowly and accumulates somewhere, you will have to correct the slope and possibly even widen the groove.
After making sure that the drain is ideal, you can start decorating the drainage of the site. The appearance of open ditches is not very aesthetic. When working on a drainage device on a site with your own hands, the easiest way is to arrange it with different fractional crushed stone. At the bottom of the grooves, you can put larger elements of stones and sprinkle them on top with small ones. If desired, the last layer is made of marble chips.
Linear drainage decoration
If not available, replace with decorative gravel. What does this mean? Having selected part of the fine gravel, it is painted in blue colors, can be of different shades. Having filled it into the channels of linear drainage systems, you will get the illusion of running water. For a complete association with streams, plant ditch banks flowering plants... This way you get not only a functional drainage system, but also a luxurious design element.
Channels dug along the perimeter of the site are often covered with a decorative lattice.
Decorative grill for a drainage channel
Graveling surface drainage is not just a matter of aesthetics. In fact, it is also an opportunity to strengthen the walls of the ditches, preventing them from shattering, and also to protect the bottom from washing out. Therefore, using gravel backfill, you will extend the service life of your drainage system.
Service features
When caring for surface drainage, special attention is paid to the cleanliness of the outlet channels. Even small build-ups on the walls and bottom can cause a decrease in operating efficiency. Drains are inspected after each shower. All emerging obstacles in the path of the drain must be removed.
The drainage system needs regular cleaning
The second point will be to control the slope angle of the linear drainage elements. When smoothing it, you will have to correct the bottom of the channel by dripping or filling.
The point drainage system is manually cleaned.
Do-it-yourself deep drainage of the site
If the problem of waterlogging is not in super clay soil, but in nearby groundwater, then you will have to be puzzled by the development of a closed drainage system. The types of work are arranged in the following order:
1. Understand the depth of the drainage pipes on the site. This indicator is influenced by the density of the earth. The higher its numbers, the less they deepen the drainages. Let's look at an example. Drainage pipes are immersed in sandy soil at least a meter, for loams this parameter is already 80 cm. In clay soils, pipes are placed no deeper than 75 cm. Why can't the drains be laid higher? In addition to soil density, there is another indicator. It's about the depth of its freezing. The drains you are laying should lie below this mark, then the pipes will not deform.
An example of a deep drainage device
2. Select the type of pipes. If surface drainage can be saddled without any specific conductors, then drains will have to be purchased for deep drainage of the site. What does the modern assortment offer? The drainage elements of the system are manufactured:
- made of plastic;
- ceramics;
- asbestos.
Ceramic pipes are quite expensive for site drainage, but they will last for centuries. There are estates where a closed drainage of a ceramic site has been functioning for 150 years. Although asbestos-cement products are durable, today they are practically not used due to their environmental insecurity.
At the peak of popularity, inexpensive and practical perforated plastic. As a component of deep drainage of the site, pipes from it will need additional protection against clogging with small soil particles. If this is not taken care of initially, then after a very short time, the drains will clog and stop flowing water.
Perforated plastic pipes for drainage
It is good to use geotextiles to insulate the drainage pipes of the site. Do not wrap drains with filter material only in clay soil. Here it will be enough to lay the pipe on a twenty-centimeter layer of gravel. This option will not work in loams. The pipes will have to be wrapped in geotextile fabric. The worst will be for the owners of sandy areas. Here, the components included in the device for deep drainage of the site will not only have to be wrapped in geotextiles, but also covered from all sides with a thick layer of gravel.