The pumping station buzzes but does not collect water. Do-it-yourself pump station repair: common malfunctions and how to fix them

No device, no matter how reliable it is, lasts forever. Alas! This also applies to pumps for water supply systems. Therefore, at the end of the topic about pumping equipment, we will figure out which malfunctions pumping station and how to crank up the repair of a pumping station with your own hands. If you were looking for about: malfunctions of a water supply pumping station, malfunctions of pumping stations for a house, malfunctions of a water pumping station, malfunctions of a pump station pressure switch ... then this article is still for you. Further I will just list possible malfunctions and "fix" them.

The pumping station is running (the pump is spinning), but there is no water:

The steps to troubleshoot this problem are as follows:

First of all, you need to check check valve that is in the water in a well or well. It often happens that sand or debris gets into it and the valve does not close. In this case, the water does not rise through the pipes to the pump.
Secondly, check for water in the piping between the well and the pump. The pump must also be filled with water; if there is no water, fill it through the filler hole.
Very high output between impeller and pump casing. The pump just works for itself. The reason for this may be the high content of abrasive substances in the water, for example, sand. In this case, the casing and the impeller should be changed, if they are on sale, or the entire pump (but not the entire station!).
The water in the well / well ran out corny. Exit - try to lower the suction pipe or hose deeper. But remember: the distance from the water level in the well to the pump should not exceed that indicated on the pump, usually 8-9 m.

The pump is pumping in jerks (very often turns on / off):

To fix this problem, you need to do the following:

Pay attention to the pressure gauge located on the automation unit.
If the pressure gauge needle rises to the pressure that the station was set to (in this case, the pump turns off), then drops sharply until it is turned on, then there may be the following reasons:
there is no air pressure in the hydraulic tank. At the factory, nitrogen is pumped into the tank to a pressure of 1.5 atm. Sometimes, due to corrosion, cracks appear in the tank body, and the pressure does not hold for a long time. Find the leak and repair the crack (eg, "cold welding"). You can check the air pressure in the hydraulic tank by connecting a pressure gauge (at least a car one) to the nipple. The pressure in the tank may not necessarily be due to the appearance of a crack, but simply for some unknown reason the air has left. Then you do not need to drive yourself to a brain twist in search of non-existent cracks, but just pump the air with a pump (in fact, you should start with this);
rupture of the diaphragm separating air and water in the tank. You can check this through the nipple: if water flows from the nipple, then the diaphragm is damaged;
does not work pressure switch, which controls the activation of the pump.

The pump pumps, but the water flows intermittently (jerks):

The reason for this malfunction of the pumping station and the measures for its elimination are as follows:

somewhere there is an air leak. It is necessary to check the suction piping from the wells to the pump, connections and the water level in the well. The suction height should not exceed 8-9 m (with a pipe diameter of 1 "- 25 mm; if the pipe is smaller, for example 1/2", then the height should be less).

The pump pumps, water flows, but the pump does not turn off:

Here is just the reason - a malfunction of the pressure switch of the pumping station, with which we do this:

you need to adjust the pressure switch.
Pumping station malfunctions and their elimination

There are two springs in the relay for adjustment, a large and a small one:

A large spring adjusts the on / off of the pump (upper and lower limit). Small regulates the difference in pressure between the upper and lower limit. After prolonged operation of the pump, the moving parts of the pump are depleted, and over time, the pump can no longer create the pressure that it was "prescribed" at the factory. Therefore, you need to reduce with the help of a large spring, turning it in the direction of the arrow to "-". However, you should not get carried away with such an adjustment;

the inlet in the pressure switch is clogged:

If the water quality is poor, sometimes hardness salts are formed and the hole in the pressure switch is clogged. The relay simply stops responding. It is necessary to remove the relay and clean it.

The pump does not start:

Here are the steps to troubleshoot this pumping station malfunction:

see the contacts of the pressure switch - use a tester to check the presence of power supply. If the contacts are burnt, clean them (for example, with fine sandpaper or a file);
check the pump motor, check the contacts, power supply, "ring" for the integrity of the winding, check the suitability of the starting capacitor. If the engine burns out, it should be rewound or replaced with a new one.

The pump hums but does not rotate:

The reasons for this malfunction of the pumping station are as follows:

it happens that the pump has been lying somewhere in a shed for the winter, and in the spring they took it out and try to start it. But it starts to hum ... Due to the fact that the pump was left without water and motionless for a long time, the impeller of the pump "stuck" to the casing. It is necessary to manually turn the impeller from the back side, and then plug it into the network;
the capacitor is out of order (located in the engine's branded box);
it is necessary to check the voltage in the mains, perhaps it is just undervoltage.

That's all (or almost all) that can be said about malfunctions of a pumping station for water supply systems at home and about the repair of the pumping station with your own hands.

pumping station malfunctions

Jumbo 60/35 NK automatic pressure control

Sewerage and water supply are an integral part of a comfortable life. To provide themselves with the benefits of civilization, even in the country, many purchase special pumps. These devices ensure the proper pressure of water used for domestic and household needs. Over time, the factory settings go astray, so there is a need for such a procedure as adjusting the pressure switch of a pumping station (HC).

How to setup
Video

The pressure switch is an automated sensor that controls the activation and deactivation of the pump. As a rule, the manufacturer supplies pumps with a pre-calibrated relay:

switch-on pressure is set at around 1.5 -1.8 atmospheres (bar)
shutdown pressure - 2.5-3 atmospheres.

Correction of the operating mode is achieved by changing these settings. In this case, the volume of the accumulator and the required water pressure must be taken into account. The pressure switch has two adjustments:

Compression nut P - setting the upper pressure limit, upon reaching which the pump is turned off.
The clamping nut ΔP (delta P) - is responsible for the lower pressure level, that is, the switching on of the equipment (pressure drop).

To understand how the relay is adjusted and configured, you need to know the principle of operation of the complete pumping station. So, the pump pumps water into the accumulator, thereby increasing the water pressure level in the main tank. This indicator is monitored on a manometer. Further, upon reaching the preset level P, the contacts in the relay open and the pump is turned off. Residents, using water, gradually reduce the pressure in the tank, when the lower ΔP mark is reached, the pump turns on, the process is repeated.

Calculation of the lower pressure limit - the moment of switching on the HC

Any calibration begins from the very beginning - determining the minimum required pressure in the tap located at the highest point of the water supply system. For example, the required level in the taps on the 2nd floor of your house is 2 bars. In doing so, remember that a pressure of 1 bar creates a column of water that is 10 m high.

Of course, the pressure on the ground floor will be higher. Calculate the height to which the water will rise from the accumulator to the extreme point of the water intake. If the differential is, for example, 8 m, then the pressure will be 0.8 bar. Further simple mathematics: add the value of the required pressure on the second floor and the height of the water column, you get the minimum pressure in the pipes at the level of the accumulator. In our example, this is 2.8 bar.

Next, you should determine the air pressure in the accumulator tank. It is good to use a tire pump with a pressure gauge for this. In this case, the container must be empty, and the station must be disconnected from the network. Otherwise, it will be difficult to understand to what total pressure of air and water the relay is set: in a ratio of 2: 1, or 1.5: 1.5.

According to the recommendations renowned manufacturer pumping equipment Grundfos, the back pressure in the gas cavity must be at least 90% of the calculated minimum level. That is, if we take the example data, the indicator will be 2.8x0.9 = 2.52 bars. To achieve the desired value, it is necessary to bleed off excess air, or vice versa, pump up with an auto pump.

Adjustment of the upper and lower pressure is carried out by accurate, gradual rotation of the clamping nuts: clockwise to increase the value, counterclockwise to decrease. At the same time, some manufacturing plants recommend setting the switching level to 0.1 bar higher than the desired one, that is, in the example, this value will be 2.9 bar.

It is quite simple to check: when the system is turned on, open the tap, drain the water from the tank and monitor the moment when the relay turns on the pump using the water pressure gauge. The minimum air pressure limit in the accumulator is 0.78 bar.

Calculation of the upper pressure level - the moment of switching off the HC

Now you need to decide on the upper pressure, that is, the moment when the relay will turn off the pump.

Wizards, as a rule, set the difference between the on and off points up to 1 bar. This is explained by the fact that the water in the mixers will be dispensed at the same temperature. Of course, it's convenient for users. There is one "but": the accumulator will start up and stall too often, which negatively affects the life of the device.

That is why, according to the manufacturers' calculations, the spacing between P and ΔP must be at least 1.4 bar at all pressures. For our example, it turns out 2.9 + 1.4 = 4.3 bars.

When setting the P and delta-P values, it is imperative to take into account the maximum pressure for which the accumulator is designed and try not to exceed it. The data, as a rule, are indicated in the technical data sheet of the product. Also, too high pressure can adversely affect faucets and rubber underwater hoses, which are also set to the maximum allowable level.

Most problems with pressure regulation and relay operation are associated with a malfunction of the accumulator membrane. Violation of the on-off mode occurs due to the fact that the membrane chamber in the absence of water lies at the bottom of the tank. Since it contains butyl rubber, it sticks together in an idle mechanism and ceases to perform its functions. The problem is eliminated by careful blowing: the air from the device is vented to 0.5 bar, the pump is turned on and gradually pumped up to 1 bar of water. The membrane will expand. Followed already according to the scheme: drain the water, re-pump the air using an auto pump. Further adjustment of the relay will be carried out without problems.

Features of adjusting the HC relay from different manufacturers

The given adjustment scheme is classic. However, the setting of the relay of pumping stations from different manufacturers is slightly different, taking into account the characteristics of the products.

So, for Jileks Jumbo pumps, the use of a mechanical device RDM-5 is characteristic, the design of which provides for one more additional spring, enclosed in a plastic frame. Designed to fix the adjusting nuts within the established limits, that is, a kind of protective mechanism that does not allow changing the on-off points of the pumping station.

Similar to the previous type, pumps from Caliber and Alco are regulated.

Pumps from "Marina" (Marina) have standard factory settings: P - 1.5 atm, ΔP - 3 atm., Ultimate pressure - 3.2 atm. Over time, the springs weaken, so they need to be tightened every six months to the desired level according to the standard scheme, but not set to maximum. Otherwise, the mechanism wears out very quickly.

Pump stations from Pedrollo have an adjustable pressure of 1.4-2.8 bar. Before setting the relay, you need to measure the air pressure in the accumulator tank. The figure must be below the level minimum pressure 0.2 bar. Otherwise, the adjustment follows the general principle.

Grundfos is more responsible in adjusting the relays of its pumping stations, therefore the plant obliges dealers to check and adjust the products at the time of the buyer. Unconditional requirement: the difference between P and ΔP must be 1-1.5 bar. At the same time, each client is recommended to check the settings once a year.

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Domestic pumping stations Dzhileks Jumbo for home and summer cottages

Jumbo pumping stations are designed to provide uninterrupted water supply to a variety of residential buildings, as well as to supply water for irrigating plants in a garden or summer cottage.

Devices of this brand are equipped with pressure tanks and automatic system control, which allows you to maintain the required pressure level in the water supply system.

The pumping equipment is able to independently turn off and turn on in the process of consuming water.

NS of this brand are equipped with a surface pump with a built-in injector, a pressure gauge, a hydraulic accumulator and a pressure switch.

Device and main components

The body of devices of this brand is made of high quality cast iron, and the impeller is made of wear-resistant plastic. This makes it possible to significantly increase the level of strength of the structure as a whole, as well as to guarantee the efficient and reliable operation of the pumping station throughout the entire period of operation.

Among the main advantages of the Jumbo station, it is worth noting a rather long service life, as well as the presence of an automatic control system and a built-in injector.

Automatic pumping stations Dzhileks are distinguished by their high practicality and excellent self-priming capabilities, they combine all the advantages of centrifugal units.

Marking and designation for different series

Pumping stations, depending on the configuration and technical characteristics, may have different markings:

The letter "P" in the marking indicates that the pump is made of glass-filled polypropylene and is equipped with threaded inserts made of brass.
The letter "H" means that the pump is made of high quality stainless steel.

The first number in the marking means the maximum water flow, which is measured in liters per minute. And the second figure reflects the maximum head that the device is able to create.

Jumbo pumping station series 60/35

NS Jumbo 60 35 is an automatic pump complete with a pressure hydraulic tank, as well as an automatic control system that maintains the required pressure level in the water supply system. In the process of consuming water, the device turns off and turns on independently.

The series is intended for use in automatic water supply systems of a summer cottage or cottage. This equipment is used to supply water from wells, wells, open reservoirs and other types of tanks.

The pump can be operated at a liquid temperature not exceeding 50 degrees Celsius and a temperature environment not less than 1 degree Celsius. The unit can supply water from a depth of no more than 9 meters.

The 5 most important advantages of this model

Built-in ejector.
Automatic control system.
Reliable protection of electric motors.
The housing is made of wear-resistant materials that provide reliable protection for the device.
Long enough service life.

Pumping water stations of the 60 35 series are equipped with special graphite-ceramic seals, which practically completely prevent the possibility of leakage.

Video review of the model:

Jilex Jumbo 70/50

Household pumping station Jumbo 70 50 is specially designed to provide uninterrupted water supply to summer cottages, cottages, farms and other consumers.

The equipment of this model is able to automatically maintain the required level of pressure in the water supply systems, independently turning off and turning on as needed.

It is completed with an automatic control system and a built-in ejector, which makes it possible to create a sufficiently high pressure at the outlet.

This series combines the advantages of centrifugal pumps with the practicality of self-priming models.

What is the advantage of the 70/50 series?

Smooth start, which prevents the likelihood of water hammer during start-up, and also seriously reduces the mechanical stress on the check valve and pump.
The ability to maintain a given pressure range.
Built-in protection against runaway and dry running.
Protection against a variety of voltage surges.
Sufficiently low power consumption.

An excellent video describing the benefits of this model:

Jilex Jumbo Station 50/28

It is completed with a hydraulic accumulator and is designed to ensure uninterrupted water supply from wells, wells and open reservoirs. This equipment combines all the advantages of centrifugal pumps and the practicality of self-priming.

Mini pumping stations of this model consist of a self-priming electric pump, a horizontal hydraulic accumulator made of carbon steel, a pressure gauge, a pressure switch and connecting equipment.

The electric motor of the device has reliable protection from overheating in the form of a special fan and a thermal protector, which turns off the pump if the temperature on the windings exceeds the permissible level.

Automatic pumping stations for water supply Dzhileks Jumbo 50/28 are distinguished by a high level of productivity and unpretentiousness to the quality of the pumped water. This guarantees a sufficiently long service life as in country houses and in homes for permanent residence.

Is the connection and installation difficult?

All types of electrical work, such as installing sockets, connecting to the mains and grounding, must only be carried out by qualified personnel in full compliance with safety regulations.

The installation process usually consists of several sequential stages. First, a suction pipe with a check valve is connected to a special inlet, and a pressure line is connected to the outlet. After that, the suction line and the pump body are filled with water, and then the pumping station is connected to the power grid.

When installing the suction line, it is required to create a continuous angle of inclination from the pumping equipment to the water intake source. It is important to prevent air from entering the installed suction line.

To use water from a well or a deep well, it is not at all necessary to lift it to the surface with your hands using a bucket. Modern submersible pumps for relatively little money allow you to get rid of "extra" labor costs and make it possible to automate the water supply of a private house. Many homeowners install their own pumping equipment, connect automation, and assemble piping. Such events end with varying degrees of success. It often turns out that a submersible pump does not pump water, although you can hear that its motor is running. Let's try to figure out what mistakes lead to this, and what to do in this case.

This issue needs to be considered first. The autonomous water supply system, in addition to power injection equipment, includes other important elements, each of which must work exceptionally well. Also, the pump needs energy and, in fact, water for operation.

So, in order for a well to provide water without interruption, four conditions must be met:

What to download: the presence of water in the required amount.
Due to what to download: high-quality power supply of equipment (voltage, frequency).
What to pump: good condition and optimal pump power / performance.
Why to pump: properly working pipelines with a sufficient cross-section and efficient wiring components (taps, valves, filters, mixers, etc.).

Diagram Diagram of the organization of autonomous water supply of a private house from a well

How to look for a problem

A system designed not only for irrigation, but also for water supply at home has the most complex configuration. In this case, it makes sense to consider it by site. There will be three of them:

in the well,
in the ground,
in the House.

You need to act by the method of elimination. First, disconnect the pipe in the caisson, if water flows, then you need to look for problems in the house or in the horizontal section of the pipeline, which is in the ground. If the water does not rise at all, the problem is somewhere below.

If the submersible pump hums, but does not pump water, then this means that a mistake has been made somewhere:

at the stage of selection of components,
during installation,
during the period of operation.

Although more or less objective reasons are possible, for example, power surges or a critical drop in the water level at the source. Therefore, if the pump worked normally, and then problems began, it is logical to first pay attention to the variable factors (water and power supply), and then proceed to checking the performance of the equipment and wiring. When a new, only assembled system does not start, problems can be anywhere.

A running pump does not pump water: possible malfunctions

Next, we will consider common problems, we will give recommendations on how to diagnose and eliminate, if it is possible to do this at home. The list will be numbered, but this does not relate to search order or "popularity" of issues. Sometimes users make several mistakes at once, and often in this "bouquet" some of them are secondary - a consequence of those committed earlier and not eliminated in time.

# 1. The water level in the well or well has dropped

The water flows for a while, then the flow is interrupted. A pump (for example, a vibrating pump) can continue to run, units with a built-in thermostat or float switch off. In the presence of dry-running protection, it works. This problem is mainly observed in the summer, when the aquifers are depleted (a lot of water in the private sector is spent on irrigation of cultivated areas, low rainfall). Also, troubles await the owners, if mistakes are made during drilling and arrangement of the well or its flow rate is incorrectly determined.

The dynamic level may change during the season

In order to avoid pump failure, it is necessary to apply dry running protection. Drilling a well for water should be ordered from a contractor with a good reputation and all permits, which complies with all the nuances of the technology, provides a real guarantee and issues the user with a certificate for the well. When choosing a drilling depth, heed the advice of professionals. If the well is old, it may need cleaning.

In this case, the pump indicator indicated in the passport as l / min is considered. (m 3 / h). Sometimes it turns out that the water is pumped out too quickly, and the casing does not have time to fill. As a result, we have the same "dry run" as in the first paragraph, the "symptoms" will be similar. This usually happens when it is turned on at the same time. a large number of parsing points, or "massive" watering of the garden is carried out through pipes / hoses large diameter.

The performance of the pumping equipment should be precisely matched to the performance of the well. The power reserve, if allowed, is small. It is also important how much water can be consumed at the facility at a time or per hour. If the flow rate of the source is small, then sometimes the problem is solved by a competent organization of water analysis - not to turn on all the taps at once.

No. 3. The pump pressure is not enough to raise water and pump it into the house

The pressure characteristic reflects the ability of the equipment to transport water to a certain height at a nominal capacity. In other words, if you have a well 50 meters deep, then the device, in the passport of which a total pressure of 30 meters is indicated, simply will not squeeze water to the surface. In this case, you will hear the sound of the motor until the thermal relay turns off the power.

The graph shows the relationship between pump capacity and water pressure

Important! The horizontal section must also be taken into account. It is usually suggested to equate 10 meters of horizontal pipe with 1 meter of vertical. But if the pipeline has increased local resistance (many bends, taps, tees, filters, etc.), it is better to count in a 5: 1 ratio.

No. 4. Line voltage drop

For most pumps, voltage deviations become critical. If the drawdown in the network is below 200 volts, then, as a rule, the submersible pump does not turn on at all or it starts to work, but the pressure drops sharply, up to a complete stop of water movement (there is not enough performance) when the motor is running.

You can detect the problem measuring instruments... You can also temporarily connect the pump to the generator - if the water has gone, then there is a snag in the power supply. A stable voltage can be obtained using a stabilizer or autotransformer.

No. 5. Clogged pipeline, shut-off and control valves, filter on the pump

Similar troubles are observed during the start-up, for example, after assembling a new system or after servicing an already in use. During installation, dirt or foreign particles (flax, scraps of fum tape, etc.) can enter the pipes, which clog filters, cartridges and mixer nets. Care is recommended when piping, fitting and piping equipment.

Cleanliness is the key to the flawless operation of an automated water supply system

If there is a lot of debris, sand, silt in the well, the mesh and impellers of the injection unit are clogged, the submersible pump hums, but does not pump. The only way to fix the problem is to lift the pump to the surface and flush it. It is necessary to temporarily let the device run in a container without a check valve and a connected pipe ("through itself").

Important! Listen to the pump operation, for almost any problem with the water supply to the top, the sound of the motor changes - usually it becomes quieter.

No. 6. The pipe is disconnected from the pump or damaged

In this situation, the sounds of bubbling are heard from the water source. The problem arises when the pump is operational and turned on, but the flow is blocked. Sometimes this happens if the connection is incorrect (the clamp on the hose is loosely tightened or the HDPE pipe is not fully inserted into the fitting). A common mistake is improperly hanging the pump when the cable / cord is loose and all the weight is on the pipe. Pipe ruptures are possible only as a result of marriage or mechanical damage.

It makes sense to check the quality of the pipe itself and the connection to the pump on the surface. To do this, you can perform a test pumping of water from the tank, including with a short-term artificial blocking of the duct.

No. 7. The pump is out of order

If you hear the sound of the engine, and all the "search measures" have not yielded results, perhaps something happened to the pumping unit, or rather to its mechanical part. For example, in centrifugal pumps, plastic impellers on the shaft can start spinning, in vibration devices the piston becomes unusable, the rod breaks, etc. In most cases, this is a consequence of operation with the malfunctions listed above, or the pump has a solid service life. The way out is to lift, test on the surface, disassemble (preferably at a service center).

Drawing conclusions

In winter, water in some section of the pipe can freeze and block the channel. Sometimes everything is trite and simple - they forgot to open some kind of shut-off valve. Of course, it is impossible to discuss all possible breakdowns and errors, but these are the main ones to start with. In any case, the main thing is to choose the right components of the system and carefully assemble it. It is necessary to comply with the requirements of the manufacturers of pumps and other equipment used, and start troubleshooting as soon as something goes wrong.

Video: choosing a submersible pump

If you live in your own country house with autonomous water supply, then you definitely need to study the device of the water pump, the causes of probable breakdowns, to know why the pump does not pump water from the well and how to fix this problem.

Searching for a reason

To troubleshoot the water pump, it is important to first find out the cause of the breakdown. But first of all, it is necessary to determine those conditions without which the normal operation of the device is impossible:

The amount of water that the pump will lift up. A decrease in its level can affect the pressure.
The power supply parameters must correspond technical characteristics pump. In other words, you need to correctly select the power of the device in accordance with the depth of the well and the calculated water flow.
Serviceability of the pump.
Taps, filters, valves, pipes and other elements of the device must also be in good working order. Failure of at least one component of the system will lead to malfunctions.

Often, tap water in a private house is needed not only for internal consumption, but also outside (for watering a garden, washing a car). Therefore, the cause of the malfunction should be sought in three directions - in the hydraulic system, indoors and outdoors. How to determine the cause? Let's use the elimination method.

First, we disconnect the supply hose located in the caisson. If water flows out at the same time, then there is a problem either in the room or in the pipes on the street.

If there is no liquid, then the reason may be hidden in the well itself or in the pump parts. Sometimes this situation also happens - the device hums, but there is no water. Then the following reasons are most likely:

Incorrect installation or some parts of the pump that are not quite suitable.
Decreased water in the well, as well as surges in the electrical network, can also be the culprits of water supply problems.
Phase loss during operation of the electric motor.

If, until recently, the device worked properly without breakdowns, perhaps the reason should be sought in voltage drops in the power grid or problems in the water supply of the well. If the system is completely new, then finding the cause will be more difficult.

Most likely cause of failures

If water does not come from the well, and the system is humming, the problem may be due to clogging or mechanical damage to the parts of the water supply system. Try to remember if the water quality has changed recently? Has the pressure decreased? If so, then we can safely assume that the cause of the pump breakdown was an ordinary blockage. Small algae, sand, silt - this is what can pollute the system and cause it to break.

Clogging is primarily characterized by the appearance of sand and foreign particles in the water flowing out of the tap. Then its quantity and pressure gradually decrease until the water stops flowing at all. Yes, the pumps have protection against so-called dry running, but it may simply not work. And then water does not come from the well, but the motor and all other parts continue to work.

Clearing the blockage

To remove the blockage, you must perform the following steps:

We lift the submersible pump to the surface from the well.
We pump out the water.
We clean and disinfect the entire area of the internal space.
We pump out the water again.

If the water does not go, do not worry - in any case, cleaning will benefit both the pump and all other parts of the water supply system. It must be performed regularly.

Further action plan

Why does the pump not pump water from the well even after cleaning? This can be caused by the following problems:

Malfunctions of the electrical system.
Breakdown of the mechanical parts of the pump.
Violation of the tightness of the pipeline. Holes and cracks in pipes are also possible.
Malfunctions in the pump control units.

To find out exactly what has broken down, we take the pump out of the well and immerse it in a container filled with water. It can be a large basin or a barrel. If the motor is running, then there are no breakdowns in the electrical system. If the engine does not start, you need to call a specialist.

Attention! Can't try to repair electrical system motor! This should only be done by a professional!

While the engine is running, visually assess if there are any holes or cracks in the pipes and hoses. Remember that even slight deformation will lead to a drop in pressure. For a more accurate result, close the outlet with your hands. Then the pressure inside the pump will increase and even small places where there is a leak can be seen.

If any hose is damaged, it is not necessary to glue it. Better buy a new one. The fact is that even after a well-done repair, the hose will not last long due to its operation under water pressure - the adhesive tape will constantly break off, and the glue will be washed off.

The pump is running, but not pumping water

What if you don't find any problems with the electrics, or with pipes and hoses? Most likely, the reason is in the pump itself. Before pumping water from the well, we carry out the following actions:

First of all, you need to check the filter and the non-return valve. They should either be cleaned or completely replaced. It all depends only on the degree of clogging and wear of the part. Since these components are not that expensive, we recommend changing them at the first sign of deformation and aging.
The unit responsible for shutting down the system when the water supply is cut off may break or burn out. This part does not need to be repaired, but replaced immediately. This will allow you not to worry about the pump stopping supplying water again. In doing so, do not forget to check the adequate supply of water to the well. The fact is that this unit can overheat when the water level drops critically.

A number of other reasons

There are several more reasons why the pump stops pumping water from the well:

Significant decrease in the water level in the well. The main reason for this is improper drilling. The water level often drops in summer, during dry periods. To prevent such situations, it is necessary to contact only trusted companies for drilling wells, as well as to use the protection system against working "on dry". Cleaning the well with the help of special means will not be superfluous.
A centrifugal pump can pump out water faster than a well can be refilled. It is necessary to choose the right pump based on your personal needs. At the same time, it is better to buy a device with a capacity slightly higher than necessary, because guests may come, or you will need to water the garden big amount water. Do not forget to save it as much as is reasonable - do not open all the taps in the house at once and do not pour water in vain.
Weak pressure. Another problem that arises if you choose the wrong pump. For example, the well is about 50 meters deep. And the device is designed for a shaft length of about 30 meters. Of course, he will not be able to raise water to the surface with the required pressure.
Power outages can negatively affect the operation of all devices, including the water pump. In this case, it is recommended to buy a voltage stabilizer, or connect the pump to a generator.
Disconnecting the pipeline. With this option, you can hear the "gurgling" of water. It is necessary to check the water supply system and fix the problem.
Clogged pipes or filters in the system. Often occurs during the first, trial run of the pump and water well. During this time, particles of sand or clay may enter the hoses or pipes. The main reason is incorrect or insufficiently high-quality assembly of the system. It is important to observe accuracy and accuracy during installation. To eliminate such a problem, the pump can be flushed in a container with water, having previously disconnected the pipeline and the check valve.
If the sound of a running engine is clearly audible and all possible causes of malfunctions have been checked, and there is still no water in the house, we recommend that you remove the pump and take it to a repair center.

Problems and malfunctions of pumping stations and their correction

All pumping stations consist of the same parts and their breakdowns are mostly typical. It makes no difference whether the equipment is Grundfos, Jumbo, Alco or any other companies. Diseases and their treatment are the same. The difference is in how often these malfunctions occur, but their list and causes are usually identical.

The pumping station does not turn off (does not gain pressure)

Sometimes you notice that the pump has been running for a long time and will not turn off in any way. If you look at the pressure gauge, you can see that the pumping station is not gaining pressure. In this case, the repair of the pumping station is a long process - you will have to sort out a large number of reasons:

If the cut-off limit of the pressure switch is much lower than the maximum pressure that the pump can create, and for some time it worked normally, but then it stopped, the reason is different. Perhaps at the pump the impeller worked
... Immediately after the purchase, he coped with it, but in the process of operation the impeller worn out and "now there is not enough strength." Repair of the pumping station in this case is the replacement of the pump impeller or the purchase of a new unit.

Another one possible reason -low mains voltage
... Maybe the pump is still running at this voltage, but the pressure switch no longer works. The solution is a voltage regulator. These are the main reasons that the pumping station does not turn off and does not gain pressure. There are quite a few of them, so the repair of the pumping station may be delayed.

Pumping station repair: often included

Frequent switching on of the pump and short intervals of its operation lead to rapid wear of the equipment, which is very undesirable. Therefore, the repair of the pumping station must be carried out immediately after the detection of the "symptom". This situation occurs for the following reasons:

Now you know why the pumping station is often turned on and what to do about it. By the way, there is another possible reason - pipeline leaks
or some kind of connection, so if all of the above does not apply to your case, check if the joint is flowing somewhere.

Air in water

A small amount of air in the water is always present, but when the tap starts to "spit", it means that something is not working properly. There may also be several reasons:

The pumping station does not turn on

The first thing to check is voltage. Pumps are very demanding on voltage; at low voltage they simply do not work. If everything is normal with the voltage, things are worse - most likely the motor is faulty. In this case, the station is carried to a service center or a new pump is installed.

If the system does not work, you need to check the electrical part

Other reasons include a malfunction of the plug / socket, frayed cord, burnt / oxidized contacts at the point of attachment of the electric cable to the motor. This is something you can check and fix yourself. More serious repairs of the electrical part of the pumping station are carried out by specialists.

The motor hums, but does not pump water (the impeller does not rotate)

Such a malfunction may be caused by low voltage in the network
... Check it, if everything is normal, let's move on. It is necessary to check whether it has burned out capacitor in terminal block
... We take, check, change if necessary. If that's not the reason, let's move on to the mechanical part.

First, it is worth checking if there is water in the well or well. Next, check the filter and check valve. Maybe they are clogged or faulty. Clean, check the functionality, lower the pipeline into place, start the pumping station again.

We check the impeller - this is already a serious repair of the pumping station

If it does not help, the impeller may have jammed. Then try turning the shaft manually. Sometimes, after a long downtime, it "sticks" - it becomes overgrown with salts and cannot move itself. If it was not possible to move the blades with your hands, the impeller may be jammed. Then we continue the repair of the pumping station by removing protective cover and unlock the impeller.

Next step

You checked the device for contamination and the electrical system, so why the pump does not pump water until now? Now inspect and thoroughly check the device itself. The pump has a filter device that could be clogged. In this case, clean it or replace it. This clogging problem can also occur with a pump station check valve.

If everything is in order, then a more unfavorable option follows. If the pump suddenly worked despite the fact that there was no liquid in the tank, then the sensor inside the device could simply burn out due to overheating. In this case, you can't do anything with your own hands. It is not even recommended to go to a specialist, because the water pump will no longer show as reliable a result as in the old days.

The composition of the pumping station and the purpose of parts

A pumping station is a collection of individual devices interconnected. To understand how to repair a pumping station, you need to know what it consists of, how each part works. Then troubleshooting is easier. The composition of the pumping station:

Each of the parts is responsible for a certain parameter, but one type of malfunction can be caused by the failure of various devices.

The principle of operation of the pumping station

Now let's take a look at how all of these devices work. When the system is first started, the pump pumps water into the accumulator until the pressure in it (and in the system) equals the upper threshold set on the pressure switch. As long as there is no water flow, the pressure is stable, the pump is off.

Somewhere a tap was turned on, water was flushed, etc. For a while, water comes from the accumulator. When its amount decreases so that the pressure in the accumulator drops below the threshold, the pressure switch is triggered and turns on the pump, which again pumping water. It turns off again by the pressure switch when the upper threshold is reached - the shutdown threshold.

If there is a constant flow of water (a bathtub is typed, watering of the garden / garden is turned on), the pump works for a long time: until the required pressure is created in the accumulator. This periodically occurs even with all the taps open, since the pump delivers less water than flows out of all the points of analysis. After the flow has stopped, the station works for some time, creating the required reserve in the gyroaccumulator, then it turns off and turns on after the water flow appears again.

Malfunctions of pump protection systems

Usually, a properly assembled water supply system and quality pumps have devices that prevent them from idling.

In the event of a malfunction of such protective devices: a dry-running relay of a borehole and float switches for drainage devices, a well or fecal pump, the devices can work in the absence of water.

Sometimes the float switch of well or drainage pumps, due to improper installation, does not fall along with a drop in the water level (falls on a bump or clings to a protruding object) - this leads to the operation of the electric pump in idle mode and its further failure.

Vibration pumps, usually without external protective devices in the system, working for a long time without water after a drop in its level, may fail in the absence of built-in thermal protection.

Unfortunately, even the most reliable pumping equipment can fail. Among the violations in the work there are serious breakdowns and common wear of rubbing parts or seals. Correction of the simplest problems on the shoulder home master, but you must admit that even elementary repair operations need to be known how to carry out correctly.

We are happy to help you master the hard work of a household appliance repairman. In the article offered to your attention, all the typical types of breakdowns of pumping units are described in detail. The effective methods of eliminating failures in the operation of water supply installations are presented.

Those who wish to repair the pumping station with their own hands will find answers to all questions that arise in such cases. Useful information backed up step by step photo instructions, diagrams and videos.

With the help of a pumping station, you can solve several problems related to water supply:

organize the automatic flow of water from the source to the water supply system of the house;
adjust the water pressure in the water supply system, bringing it to an acceptable level;
preserve plumbing system from water hammer;
create some water supply in case of water supply problems.

When troubleshooting a pumping station, it must be remembered that dry-running is categorically not recommended for almost all models of surface pumps. Before turning on the pump to check its operation, make sure that it is filled with water. If this is not the case, the device must be filled through a special filling hole.

"Dry running", i.e. work without water intake, idle, is very dangerous for almost all models of surface pumps. Parts are very worn out, the winding of the electric motor may burn out

# 1: The pump is running, the water is not running

If the pump turns on and you can see (hear) that it is working, but water does not enter the container, you should figure out where exactly this water goes. The first thing to check is. If it went bad, the water just spilled back. If there is water in the intake hose, then the check valve is not to blame for anything, you need to look for another reason.

If the hose is empty, remove it and inspect the check valve. It may happen that the pumping station does not pump water at all due to a simple clogging of the valve openings. It is enough to rinse the device so that it starts working correctly again.

Sometimes it is necessary to replace the spring or the entire valve. Of course, after replacing a part or repairing, you should check the operation of individual units of the pumping station, and only then carry out the final assembly and start-up of the device.

The check valve is necessary for the normal operation of the pumping station. If its holes are clogged, you just need to disassemble the device and rinse it

If there is water in the intake hose, check all joints and pipes between the pump and the tank for leaks. Perhaps the water just flows out through a crack or hole. The damaged pipe must be replaced, and the leaking joint must be cleaned, sealed and re-sealed.

If threaded connections pumping stations become leaking and leaky, they must be cleaned and re-sealed with suitable materials

There is a third reason why water does not go into the tank: low debit of the water source. This happens if, for some reason, water does not flow into the water intake part of the well or well.

This happens, for example, as a result of silting or sanding. Or the pump for the source is chosen incorrectly, it pumps out water too quickly, its reserves do not have time to recover.

How to select, install and connect correctly for a water intake is set out in the article, which we recommend that you familiarize yourself with.

The pump will most likely have to be replaced, there are special models for low-flow sources. To increase the flow rate of a well, it makes sense to pump it over, i.e. wash the accumulated dirt. A separate pump should be used to flush the well, and not the one that comes with the pumping station.

As an urgent measure, it is sometimes advised to draw water from deeper depths, but this recommendation should be used with caution. If the source is sandy, the water intake is too deep, or submersible pump can lead to contamination of pumping equipment and its serious damage.

Another possible reason why the pump stopped pumping water is impeller wear. In this case, it will rotate idle. You will have to remove the pump, disassemble it, rinse it, replace the impeller, and possibly the pump housing. Sometimes it is easier to install a new pump.

If the above “diagnoses” are not confirmed, it makes sense to just check the voltage in the electrical network. If it is too low, the pump will turn on, but will not be able to supply water. It remains to establish a normal power supply so that the pumping equipment again functions in the desired mode.

# 2: The device turns on, but does not work

This happens with pumps that have not been used for a long time (for example, in winter period). Since the gap between the impeller and the casing is small, these elements, being stationary, can simply “stick” to each other.

When turned on, the pump will hum properly, but the impeller will remain stationary. In such a situation, the device should be turned off immediately.

The gap between the impellers (impeller) of the pump must be small. If the wheels are worn out, the clearance will increase and the performance of the device will decrease, so it is better to replace the wheels with new ones.

It is not difficult to cope with this problem, just turn the impeller a couple of times with your hands. If, after switching on, the pump resumes operation, then the obstacle has been removed.

Of course, before starting operation, a pump that has not been running for some time does not hurt to flush it. Sometimes the impeller has nothing to do with it, the condenser simply failed. The damaged element must be replaced.

A burnt out condenser is a common cause of pumping station breakdowns. It is not difficult to replace it with a new element with suitable characteristics.

# 3: The pumping station is jerky

This behavior of the technique is most often typical for situations when there are problems with the pressure inside the hydraulic tank. First of all, you need to check the behavior of the pressure gauge. If the pump shuts down as expected when water comes in, but soon there is a sharp drop in internal pressure, problems should be looked for internally.

Most likely, the membrane in the accumulator has broken. It is easy to verify this: if you open the nipple located on the “air” side of the tank, water will flow out of it, not air.

The hydraulic tank should be dismantled, carefully disassembled, removed the damaged membrane and replaced with a new one, exactly the same. Trying to somehow repair a damaged liner is usually useless, it will quickly deteriorate again.

The sequence of work on replacing the hydraulic tank membrane is shown in the photo collection:

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