What is the best way to install a heating radiator. DIY heating radiator installation

For any type of radiator, there are general rules for their placement in the room. There is also a certain sequence of actions that must be followed. The technology is simple, but there are many nuances.

How to place batteries

First of all, the recommendations relate to the installation site. Most often, heating devices are installed where the heat loss is most significant. And first of all, these are windows. Even with modern energy-saving double-glazed windows, it is in these places that the most heat is lost. What can we say about old wooden frames.

If there is no radiator under the window, then cold air descends along the wall and spreads along the floor. The situation is changed by the installation of the battery: warm air, rising upwards, prevents the cold air from "flowing" onto the floor. It must be remembered that in order for such protection to be effective, the radiator must occupy at least 70% of the window width. This norm is spelled out in SNiP. Therefore, when choosing radiators, keep in mind that a small radiator under the window will not provide the desired level of comfort. In this case, there will be zones on the sides where cold air will go down, there will be cold zones on the floor. In this case, the window can often "sweat", on the walls in the place where warm and cold air will collide, condensation will fall out, and dampness will appear.

For this reason, do not seek to find the model with the highest heat dissipation. This is only justified for regions with a very harsh climate. But in the north, even the most powerful sections stand big size radiators. For central Russia, an average heat transfer is required, for southern ones, low radiators are generally needed (with a small center-to-center distance). This is the only way you can fulfill the key rule of installing batteries: block off most of the window opening.

In cold climates, it makes sense to arrange a heat curtain near front door... This is the second problem area, but it is more typical for private houses. Such a problem may arise in apartments on the first floors. Here the rules are simple: you need to put the radiator as close to the door as possible. Choose a place depending on the layout, also taking into account the possibilities of piping.

Installation rules for heating radiators

It is required to position the heater strictly in the middle of the window opening. When installing, find the middle, mark it. Then, to the right and to the left, postpone the distance to the location of the mounts.
The distance from the floor is 8-14 cm. If you make it less, it will be difficult to clean, if more, zones of cold air are formed below.
The radiator should be 10-12 cm away from the window sill. At a closer location, convection worsens, and the thermal power decreases.
The distance from the wall to the back wall should be 3-5 cm. This gap allows for normal convection and heat transfer. And one more thing: at a small distance, dust will settle on the wall.

Based on these requirements, you determine the most suitable radiator size, and then look for a model that meets them.

These are general rules. Some manufacturers have their own recommendations. And take it as a tip: carefully study the installation requirements before buying. Make sure all conditions are right for you. Only then buy.

To reduce non-production losses - for wall heating - fix a foil or thin foil heat insulator behind the radiator on the wall. Such a simple measure will save 10-15% on heating costs. This is how heat transfer increases. But keep in mind that for normal "operation", there must be a distance of at least 2-3 cm from the shiny surface to the rear wall of the radiator. Therefore, the heat insulator or foil must be fixed on the wall, and not just lean against the battery.

When should radiators be installed? At what stage of installation of the system? When using radiators with side connection, you can first hang them, then proceed with the piping. For the bottom connection, the picture is different: you only need to know the center-to-center distance of the pipes. In this case, the radiators can be installed after the completion of the repair.

Work order

When installing radiators with your own hands, it is important to do everything right, take into account all the little things. Experts advise using at least three fasteners when installing sectional batteries: two on top, one on the bottom. All sectional radiators, regardless of the type, are hung on the mounts with the upper collector. It turns out that the main load falls on the upper holders, the lower one serves to give direction.

The installation procedure is as follows:

We tried to describe in as much detail as possible the entire technology of installing heating radiators. It remains to clarify some points.

The most common . They are used for lateral connection of heating devices of any type and sectional, panel, and tubular (click on the picture to enlarge its size)

Fastening the radiator to the wall

All manufacturers require the installation of heating radiators on a prepared, flat and clean wall. The efficiency of the heating depends on the correct location of the holders. A bias in one direction or another will lead to the fact that the radiator will not heat up and will have to be outweighed. Therefore, when marking, be sure to observe horizontal and verticality. The radiator must be installed exactly in any plane (check with a building level).

You can slightly raise the edge where the air vent is installed (by about 1 cm). So the air will mainly accumulate in this part and it will be easier and faster to release it. Reverse slope is not allowed.

Now about how to position the brackets. Sectional radiators of low weight - aluminum, bimetallic and steel tubular - are hung from above on two holders (hooks). With a short length of batteries, they can be placed between the two outer sections. The third bracket is placed at the bottom in the middle. If the number of sections is odd, put it to the right or left of the nearest section. Usually, when installing hooks, grouting is allowed.

To install the brackets in the marked places, holes are drilled, dowels or wooden plugs are installed. Fix the holders with self-tapping screws with a diameter of at least 6 mm and a length of at least 35 mm. But these are standard requirements, read in more detail in the passport for the heating device.

The installation of the holders is different, but not drastically. For such devices, standard fasteners are usually included. There can be from two to four, depending on the length of the radiator (it can be three meters).

There are brackets on the back panel with which they are hung. To install the mount, you need to measure the distance from the center of the radiator to the brackets. Put a similar distance on the wall (mark there beforehand where the middle of the battery will be located). Then we apply the fasteners, mark the holes for the dowels. Further actions are standard: we drill, install dowels, attach brackets and fix with self-tapping screws.

Features of installing radiators in an apartment

The above rules for installing heating radiators are general and for individual systems and for centralized ones. But before installing new radiators in you, you must obtain permission from the management or operating company. The heating system is a common house property and all unauthorized alterations have consequences - administrative fines. The fact is that with a massive change in the parameters of the heating network (replacing pipes, radiators, installing thermostats, etc.), an imbalance of the system occurs. This can lead to the fact that the entire riser (entrance) will freeze in winter. Therefore, all changes require approval.

Types of wiring and connection of radiators in apartments (click on the picture to enlarge it)

Another feature is technical. With vertical (one pipe enters through the ceiling, enters the radiator, then exits and goes to the floor) when installing the radiator, put a bypass - a jumper between the supply and discharge pipelines. Paired with ball valves, this will give you the ability to turn off the radiator if you want (or an accident). In this case, the approval or permission of the manager is not required: you turned off your radiator, but the coolant continues to circulate through the riser through the bypass (the same jumper). You do not need to stop the system, pay for it, listen to the claims of your neighbors.

A bypass is also needed when installing a radiator with a regulator in an apartment (the installation of the regulator also needs to be coordinated - it greatly changes the hydraulic resistance of the system). The peculiarity of its work is such that it blocks the flow of the coolant. If there is no jumper, the entire riser is blocked. Imagine the consequences ...

Outcomes

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators is not the easiest, but also not the most difficult task. Just take into account that most of the manufacturers give guarantees only if heating devices are installed by representatives of organizations that have a license for this. The fact of installation and crimping must be noted in the radiator's passport, must be signed by the installer and stamped by the company. If you do not need a guarantee, hands are in place, it is quite possible to cope.

One of the many advantages of individual private housing is a heating network that is not tied to a CHP or boiler houses, does not depend on the timing of the beginning and end of the general heating season and does not experience all the charms of unstable pressure in the network. heating installation is carried out at the request of the owner. He also decides which heating batteries are best for installation in a private house.

Choosing a radiator design

Local parameters heating system- an important characteristic when choosing a heating. The private house system has the following advantages:

operated under favorable conditions and low pressure;
the quality of the coolant is much better than in the systems of multi-storey buildings;
there are no pressure surges, there is no threat of water hammer.

With such characteristics, the choice of radiator models is quite wide. When buying batteries, it is worth focusing on a high efficiency ratio with the right price-performance ratio. Devices made of any material are suitable for a home system.

Consider different battery designs:

Panel and sectional radiators are often the most inexpensive. With good heat transfer, they are compact. They can be installed in the heating system according to different connection schemes.

Tubular batteries are more expensive than previous options, but are roughly the same in terms of technical specifications. The increased price is added up due to more stylish design... They are also convenient for drying things.

Varieties of radiators by material of manufacture

Various batteries are suitable for installation in the private sector. Consider the features of each type.

Aluminum

They are widely used in private homes. Have stylish modern design as well as good heat output... Heat up quickly when plugged in and cool down quickly when unplugged. The price range is different and depends on the manufacturer. The most expensive and high-quality ones are made by companies in Italy. Russian counterparts are slightly inferior in operation. Their cost is much lower.

Cast iron

Such radiators are resistant to wear and corrosion, since the inner surface from contact with water is covered with a compound that prevents the destruction of batteries. Can withstand high temperatures and pressure surges in the system. They heat up for a long time and give off heat for a long time when turned off. Such devices require annual cleaning.

Bimetallic

They successfully combine such qualities as: the strength of cast iron and the effective heat transfer of aluminum. They have good resistance to pressure surges and do not corrode. Like aluminum counterparts, they are in demand for their characteristics, but the high price often scares off buyers.

Steel

Such radiators are characterized by high heat transfer and original design... Stainless steel models have a high cost. Cheaper designs are prone to corrosion.

Where are the radiators installed?

When choosing a place in a private house for installing radiators, you need to proceed from the presence of windows. In ordinary rooms, batteries are usually placed under a windowsill.

Otherwise, the flow of cold air will descend along the wall and spread over the entire surface of the floor. An obstacle to this will be the installation of radiators below the window sills. For better protection against cold, according to SNIPA standards, the battery should occupy at least 70% of the window width.

Important! A powerful radiator of the wrong size will not provide the required level of heating the room. Cold air will "drain" to the floor on the side of the battery. Condensation may form on walls where warm and cold streams meet. This will lead to dampness. And the windows themselves will fog up.

When installing the battery under the window, make sure that the window sill does not completely overlap the radiator. This can reduce the density of the warm air flowing in and reduce its efficiency. With hot radiators and the presence of small children, you can cover the heating devices with special screens.

For private houses located in areas with a cold climate, radiators are mounted next to the door. The place is chosen closer to the entrance. Radiators must always be easily accessible.

Connection diagrams

The method of installing heating radiators in a private house depends on: the efficiency of the entire structure, possible losses of heat energy.

The following schemes for connecting pipes and batteries will be more successful:

Diagonal diagram. It is considered the most efficient option with maximum efficiency. The coolant is supplied from the upper branch pipe on one side of the battery, and the return line is located at the bottom on the other. The circuit got this name because of the diagonal arrangement of the connection points. In this case, the coolant is more evenly distributed, moving from top to bottom, filling the entire cavity of the radiator.
One-sided or side scheme. With this option, the branch pipe with the supply of the coolant is on top, and with the return from below, and only on one side of the radiator. Heat is not always distributed evenly, the first few sections are hotter. This scheme works well in private homes with a small floor space. But it is possible to increase the effectiveness of such a connection if you install a circular pump.
Lower and saddle diagrams. Such methods are convenient for pipes hidden under the baseboards. In the first connection option, entry and exit occurs at the same point. With saddle connection, the inlet and outlet pipes are located at the bottom on different sides of the battery. With the external aesthetics of these methods, they have a fairly large percentage of heat loss (almost 15%).

We select the necessary components

For the upcoming work, you need to prepare tools. From shut-off and connecting fittings we purchase taps, gates, valves, thermostats. For installation, adapters are needed that allow you to connect parts of different diameters: couplings, squeegees. Brackets and corners are purchased for fixing devices on the wall. Bypasses (bridges in the form of pipe sections) are also required, which are installed between two lines of the pipeline. It is necessary to check in advance for the presence of all elements in the composition, so that during installation you do not have to look for missing parts.

When installing the batteries, the possibility of hiding the pipes of the heating system under the wall coverings is also taken into account. If there is decorative plastic or plasterboard lining, then packing the supporting parts of the heating system in them will increase the aesthetic appearance of the room. The ends of the pipes with the existing thread are brought out. This is done so that during subsequent installations of radiators it is not necessary to spoil the wall covering. The necessary parts for installation are selected taking into account the thread diameter.

Modern pipe joining methods provide for both welding and threaded assembly. Both options do not affect battery life or warmth, but differ in several ways. For example, welds are more reliable, while threads are more resistant to mechanical stress and vibrations. In addition, in older houses, it is often impossible to make threads on pipes. The way out is welding.

But in new houses they put pipes from modern materials, such as: polypropylene, metal-plastic. Welding is no longer used to connect them.

Wall markings for brackets

When installing a heating system with natural circulation in a private house, the pipelines are located at an angle of at least 6 ° to the direction in which the coolant flows. Failure to do so may result in air bubbles and air congestion.

We apply markings to the location of the future radiator for installing the holders.

Do not forget! The radiator must not be hung close to the wall. The efficiency of such an installation will be low. There should be a space of 5-10 cm between the surfaces. The battery is mounted from the floor at a distance of 10-12 cm and from the window sill - 8-10 cm.

The markings for the future heating device are made strictly according to the level. With a pencil, mark the installation locations of the brackets. They are mounted in such a way as to be located in the gaps between the radiator sections. And we select the brackets themselves in accordance with the purchased batteries, their weight and dimensions.

Having marked the necessary points, holes are drilled required diameter under the mounts. It remains to fix the dowels with a hammer and fix the brackets using self-tapping screws. There are special mounts for batteries that are threaded and screwed directly into the dowel.

How many brackets do you need for a specific battery? The seller in the store can help with this question. building materials... Usually, 3 fasteners are acquired on a device in six sections: two are installed at the top, one at the bottom.

To reduce heat loss on the wall, a layer of foil or a thin heat insulator with a foil surface is fixed. But between it and the radiator, it is imperative to leave a gap of at least 2-3 cm. Such a simple design will make the heat transfer from the heating device somewhat more efficient.

Calculation of the required power of the radiator

Having chosen the brand of batteries, it is worth calculating the power for specific premises. Exist complex formulas, by which you can calculate how much heat energy is required to heat the area of a particular room. But you can estimate approximately: for heating 1 m³ modern home need 20 watts. Having calculated the volume of the room, we multiply the resulting value by 20 and divide by the power of one battery section. What happened in the end is the required number of sections for a particular room. If there are old wooden frames on the windows, 15% is added to the indicator.

To replace and install all radiators, the heating system is completely shut off both in a private and in apartment building... The water remaining in the pipes is drained. And its remains are pumped out using a pump.

Assembling the radiator

Before installing the radiator, it must be assembled. We disconnect the part with the threaded connection and wrap this place with a winding. For this, tow is used with oil paint or more modern version- a sealing paste that can withstand high temperatures. A special fum tape is also used to help seal the pipe joints.

Before winding on the thread, apply a wide layer of paste and distribute the composition over the junction. A prepared strip of tow is wrapped around the pipe in the direction of the thread.

Next, we put on the nut from the crane on the part with tow and carefully screw the entire structure into the battery plug. We do it manually first, and then tighten it with a wrench. In the same way, we mount Mayevsky's taps and plugs on inactive pipes.

Advice! Standard shims can be used instead of tows.

Assembly and installation

We will draw up a step-by-step plan for all work on installing batteries in a private house.

Marking and installation of fasteners.
Installation of all components on the battery.
Mandatory installation of an air vent. It can be either automatic or manual. This device is screwed into the adapter and installed opposite the place where the pipe with the coolant supply is connected.
If the diameters of the water supply and drainage pipes do not match with the radiator pipes, adapters are used. They are included in the standard connection kit.
Installation of regulating and locking devices. Experts advise be sure to install Ball Valves, which help to shut off the flow of the coolant to a specific radiator in case of repair without stopping the entire system.
Fitting radiators to brackets.
Connection of pipes with supply and outlet of the coolant to the radiator, depending on the selected scheme. The choice of method (welding, threading, crimping) depends on the pipe material and fittings used.
Checking the supply of coolant to the system or pressure testing. To turn on the supply of coolant to the heating system of a private house, the valves must be opened slowly. Sudden jerks and a full turn of the crane will lead to the destruction of the heating system, rupture of the connecting fittings.

Do not forget! Radiators are sold in packaging film. Do not remove it during installation until the end installation works... Then you do not have to clean the batteries from contamination. Only the joints with pipes are released from the film.

The heating system is one of the main engineering systems in the house, be it a country cottage or ordinary apartment... We can forget about it in the summer, but with the onset of cold weather in our latitudes, it is basically impossible to live without it. The heating system consists of many elements. For example, autonomous and centralized heating differ in parameters, but any of them will have a device such as a radiator.

A radiator is the very end device that transfers the energy of the coolant in the pipes to the premises. If you decide to save money and start installing heating radiators with your own hands, then be sure to study this article. Indeed, the efficiency of heating depends on the correct thermal calculation, selection and installation of equipment, and therefore your further comfort and even safety.

Types of heating batteries

A heating radiator (often referred to as a "battery" in everyday life) is a device consisting of separate hollow sections, inside which a coolant circulates. Its main task is to increase the area of the radiating surface in order to increase the amount of heat given to the room. Heat is transferred primarily by convection, when warmer air masses rise, and colder air masses come in their place. A small part is also given off by radiation and thermal conductivity.

According to the manufacturing methods, batteries can be divided into two types: collapsible and non-collapsible. Dismountable radiators are assembled from single vertical sections connected by seals - radiator nipples. The number of sections is selected according to the calculated thermal power.

Disassembled into sections aluminum radiator

Non-demountable or panel radiators are monolithic structures in which only welding and casting are used. Due to the fewer connections, such devices are more reliable, but less versatile.

Wiring methods

First of all, it is necessary to highlight two general schemes of heating systems: one-pipe and two-pipe.

IN one-pipe system radiators are connected in series, and one pipe is used for hot and cooled coolant. Such a scheme is more demanding on the selection of the diameter of the pipes, and the number of heating devices should not exceed 4 - 5 with a total length of the pipeline up to 30 m. power (i.e. surface area) to compensate for the lower temperature of the heating medium.

It is important! As the name suggests, two-pipe scheme assumes the use of two pipes: for a hot coolant (supply) and cooled (return). All radiators are connected in parallel with the system, and they receive water of approximately the same temperature.

Video: replacing batteries

After the installation of the radiators, the heating system must be pressurized - pumping the coolant into the system at a pressure several times higher than the operating pressure, and monitoring the leaks for a short period of time. This step cannot be omitted, since it guarantees further uninterrupted operation of the heating system. If you are unsure how to do this, call a plumber. In addition to knowledge, for crimping you will need a special pump, which makes no sense to buy it once.

At first glance, installing and replacing a heating radiator does not seem to be a very difficult task. However, this is not so - any mistakes made in the process of work will inevitably cause consequences, probably rather serious. So that you do not have to restore repairs in the apartment after flooding hot water or other unforeseen problems, it is recommended to contact plumbers for installation and replacement of parts of the heating system. However, this still does not mean that installing a heating radiator with your own hands is not feasible.

To be successful you need:

Enough free time.
Explore the theoretical basis: battery connection methods and rules.
Measure the area carefully.
Find the tools you need to do this job.

Heating radiator installation

First of all, of course, you need to choose the radiator that you need in your particular apartment or private house. The choice of a radiator should be determined by its technical characteristics and your needs. What qualities of the battery influence the choice? These are mainly:

Wear resistance.
Price.
Diameter of the water circulation opening.
Resistance to aggressive environments.

Important! If you want to do the installation of heating radiators with your own hands, you also need to take into account the materials from which they are made. So, aluminum radiators are easy to install, do not require special skills, knowledge and tools. And when installing cast iron batteries welding is required. It is worth deciding in advance on the resources available to you and objectively assessing your capabilities.

Checking the bleed valve

When preparing for work, first of all, you need to find out the type of wiring of your heating system. It can be one-pipe or two-pipe.

A single-pipe heating system is most often performed in apartments in multi-storey buildings. With this type of organization hot water flows down pipes from the upper floor to the lower ones. Of the disadvantages of such a wiring, it is worth noting that in this case you cannot regulate the temperature without installing additional devices. In addition, the water on the upper floors is much hotter than on the lower ones.
The two-pipe heating system is more common in cottages and country houses... Water circulates through two systems: hot - one by one, cooled - by the other. This wiring is devoid of the disadvantages of the one-pipe version: the temperature of the heating devices always remains constant, and is also adjustable.

Heating system connection options

In addition to choosing the radiator itself, during installation you will also need to decide how to connect it to the centralized network. Several different options, each of which has its own scope of use:

Diagonal connection. This scheme is the best choice for long multi-section radiators. It is distinguished by the fact that the water supply pipe is attached to the pipe from above from one edge of the radiator, while the outlet pipe is attached to the lower pipe on the other side. Among the disadvantages of such a system can be called heavy repair in case of malfunction: the scheme does not imply the removal of the battery without completely turning off the heating.

Radiator connection options

Important! By supplying water from below, you will lose about 10% of the possible heat.

Bottom connection. This layout is the most subtle. It is used if the pipes are located inside the floor or hidden under skirting boards. The supply and branch pipes are directed perpendicular to the floor surface. The main disadvantage is that this system assumes the greatest possible amount of heat loss.
Side one-way connection. It is the most common and effective. Maximum heat transfer is ensured by connecting the supply pipe from the top, and the outlet pipe from the bottom on the same side of the battery. With inversion, the heating power is significantly reduced, therefore, it is not recommended to change pipes in places.

Important! In case of insufficient heating of the far sections of the battery, an extension of the water flow is used.

Parallel connection. It takes place through a heat pipe built into the heating system. The diversion is realized in the same way. Such a system allows you to replace batteries without turning off the central heating, but the main disadvantage is that with insufficient pressure in the system, the batteries do not warm up well.

Important! Connecting a heating radiator with your own hands in this way is quite difficult; it would be better to entrust this work to experienced installers.

Serial connection. In this case, heat transfer through the system occurs due to the air pressure in it. Excess air is released using the Mayevsky crane. The main disadvantage of such a system is also the impossibility of repairing without shutting down the entire heating system.

Radiator connection rules

There are no minor nuances in the installation of the heating system; all the rules must be followed in order for the work to be efficient and safe. So how to install heating radiators with your own hands? The following points should be considered:

the distance from the top of the battery to the window sill should be more than 5 cm;
the distance from the bottom of the battery to the floor must be at least 10 cm;
the distance from the wall to the battery should be 2 to 5 cm. In case the standard mounts are too short, you need to buy others of a suitable length.

Installing a radiator in a confined space

These rules will allow air to circulate normally around heater preventing unnecessary heat loss.

Important! The rules for installing the battery are the same for all their varieties, whether they are aluminum or cast iron radiators.

Before installing a radiator, you need to decide how many sections it should have. This can be done on the basis that in standard room with a height of no more than 2.7 meters, one section heats two square meters of area. Of course, this calculation is rather rough to get best result, you should entrust it to professionals.

Important! You can also use the formula: for 1 kW of radiator power, there is 1 square meter rooms. In the case when there are several windows in it, you need to increase the obtained value by 1.3 times.

Required tools

Installing heating radiators with your own hands in an apartment, as in a private house, requires a certain number of tools, without which this process is simply impossible.

Be sure to align the radiator vertically

For its successful implementation, you will need:

hammer drill with a victorious drill;
a set of torque wrenches;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
pliers;
roulette;
building level;
pencil and ruler.

Installation process

The installation process is nothing too complicated if it is carried out according to the plan in stages and without error.

First, you need to turn off the heating system and drain the water from it. In a private house, this can be done using a pump, in an apartment building, you will have to contact the housing office. Then you need to dismantle the used radiators.
Mark the wall for attaching new heating devices. In this case, it is advisable to use a level in order to install the battery as evenly as possible, eliminating distortions. It is important that the battery is installed strictly horizontally or with a minimum deviation towards the pipe. This will allow the water to drain completely by the end of the heating season.
Install the brackets, test them for strength by pushing them with all your weight. If they stand up, hang up the battery. For cast iron and aluminum battery usually two fasteners are sufficient, for plastic pipes necessary large quantity... Before installing the fasteners, the walls should be pre-cleaned, leveled and plastered.
Install shut-off valves, paying particular attention to reliability and watertightness threaded connections... Connect the pipeline.

Important! To prevent the battery from leaking, it is advisable to use the appropriate torque wrenches. Especially if you are installing an aluminum radiator, you will inevitably need to install an air valve with it, through which air will bleed. The force of the torque wrench used during installation should not exceed 12 kg.

A heating system should be present in every home. At the same time, it is extremely important that at each stage of its installation all the rules for installing heating radiators are strictly observed - violations of any of them can lead to serious disruptions in the operation of the system and even lead to damage to the equipment.

Possible radiator connection diagrams

Before proceeding with the installation of heating radiators, it is extremely important to determine the connection diagram. There are several options for how to do this, this is indicated in the snippet. Each of them has both certain advantages and disadvantages. Connection methods:

side connection. This method is, perhaps, the most common, since it is he who allows you to achieve maximum heat transfer from radiators. The installation principle is quite simple - the supply pipe is connected to the upper radiator pipe, and the outlet pipe is connected to the lower one. Thus, both the inlet and outlet pipes are located at one end of the battery.
diagonal connection. This method is used mainly for long radiators, since it allows maximum heating of the battery along its entire length. In this case, the inlet pipe should be connected to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower one, which is located on the other side of the battery.
bottom connection. Least effective method connections (compared to the lateral method, the efficiency is 5-15% lower), used mainly for heating systems located under the floor.

Installation instructions for heating radiators

So, how to properly hang radiators? You have purchased radiators and even decided how they will be installed. Now you need to get acquainted with all the requirements of the SNIP - and you can proceed with the installation. It's actually pretty simple.

Most radiator manufacturers, trying to make the life of users as easy as possible, attach to each battery detailed instructions and the rules for installing heating radiators.

And they really need to be followed - after all, if the radiator is installed incorrectly, in the event of a breakdown, repairs under warranty will be denied.

If you want to protect the device from scratches, dust and other damage that may occur during installation, then during installation you can leave it protective film- this is allowed by the rules for installing heating batteries. The single most important requirement that must be followed strictly is the strict observance of the indents necessary for normal circulation of heated air. Here are the rules for installing heating radiators to the indents that SNIP puts forward:

according to the current regulations, the distance from the window sill or the bottom of the niche must be at least 10 cm. It should be borne in mind that if the gap between the radiator and the wall is less than ¾ of the battery depth, then the flow of warm air into the room will be much worse.
the same strict requirements are put forward for the installation height of the radiators. How to place the radiators correctly? So, if the distance between the lower point of the radiator and the floor level is less than 10 cm, then the outflow of warm air will be difficult - and this will negatively affect the degree of warming up of the room. The ideal distance is 12 cm between the floor and the radiator. And if this gap is more than 15 cm, then there will be too much temperature difference between the upper and lower parts of the room.
if the radiator is installed not in a niche under a window, but near a wall, then the distance between the surfaces should be at least 20 cm. back wall dust will accumulate on the radiator.

In order to get the most useful information, which concerns the installation of radiators, you can use our resource. You can find many valuable advice and recommendations on how to correctly install the heating radiator.

Heating radiator installation procedure

It should be noted that the SNIP also contains the procedure for installing a radiator. Using it, you can do everything correctly:

First of all, you need to determine the location for the fasteners. Their number depends on the size of the battery, but even in the case of installing the smallest radiator, there should be at least three brackets;
The brackets are attached. For reliability, you must use dowels or cement mortar;
The necessary adapters, Mayevsky crane, plugs are installed;
Now you can start installing the radiator itself;
The next step is to connect the radiator to the inlet and outlet pipes of the system;
Next, you need to install an air vent. According to modern SNIP, it must be automatic;
After correct installation heating radiators will be fully completed, you can remove the protective film from the radiators.

If during installation heating radiators if you adhere to all the above rules and requirements, then in this case you will enjoy the warmth for a long time, which is provided by your correct installation of radiators and a well-made heating system.

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