Autonomous water supply. Water supply of a private house: design and creation of an autonomous system

Today we have to disassemble some schemes of autonomous water supply in a house without a centralized supply of cold water. We will study the main elements of these schemes, their key features and the principle of work. So, let's go.

Water sources

The autonomous water supply system needs a water source.

They can be:

• Well;
• Well;
• Suburban plumbing, water in which is supplied according to the schedule (usually twice a week). This solution is typical for garden partnerships, but somewhat inconvenient for domestic use, so we set ourselves the task of organizing round-the-clock water supply country house from the storage tank;

• Finally, the water can be imported. And in this case, we will have to provide autonomous water supply to a private house from a container.

Water supply implementation

Now let's move on to the actual water supply schemes. To learn more about how the design of autonomous water supply systems is carried out, the video in this article will help the reader.

Scheme 1: well or borehole up to 8 meters deep

This scenario is the simplest: the work is reduced to connecting the cold water supply to the outlet of the installation for autonomous water supply (pumping station). It is a set of a surface pump, a diaphragm tank and an automatic relay to control the pump power depending on the pressure.

Hint: the diaphragm accumulator increases the downtime of the pump with a small drawdown and smooths out the pressure surges when it is turned on and off. The pressure switch is triggered when the boundary parameters set by the manufacturer or owner are reached (usually the pump turns on at 1.5 kgf / cm2 and turns off at 4.5).

Depending on the depth of the well and the budget of the project, you can choose one of three types of device:

Image	Description
	Membrane (vibrating): The mechanics of the device set in motion an elastic membrane, forcing water to move through a system of check valves. Dignity is cheapness. Disadvantages - small turnaround time due to membrane wear, water pollution with sand and silt due to vibration.
	Vortex: the head is created due to the minimum clearance between the single impeller and the walls of the chamber. Advantages: compactness, reasonable price, significant resource compared to vibration pumps. Disadvantage: work only with clean water.
	: pressure is provided by working chambers connected in series with water channels with impellers on a common shaft. Advantages: practically unlimited head (it is determined by the number of working chambers); the ability to pump contaminated water by increasing the gap between the impellers and the walls of the chambers; durability and resiliency. The disadvantage is the high cost.

If you are just about to design an autonomous water supply, when selecting a pump, pay attention to its two parameters:

1. The head at the outlet must be at least 15 meters higher than the difference in height between the water surface and the upper draw-off point. Excessive head compensates for the hydraulic resistance of the pipes and ensures the normal operation of plumbing fixtures;

1. The capacity, again, should not be less than the peak water flow.

In addition to the pump, the water supply scheme should include:

• Inlet laid in the ground. Usually it is mounted with a polyethylene pressure pipe: polyethylene, due to its elasticity, transfers soil movements and even freezing of water inside the pipe without damage;

• Check valve. It stands at the outlet of the pump and does not allow water to drain into the well or well when it is turned off;

• Hydroaccumulator. We have already discussed its functions. The larger the volume of the diaphragm tank, the less often the pump will turn on. The pumping pressure of the membrane tank should be slightly higher than the lower threshold of the pressure switch;

• Automatic pressure switch. It controls the operation of the pump.

Scheme 3: tank with gravity water supply

This is another ultimate simple circuit: autonomous water supply is provided by the difference in height between storage tank and draw-off points. The tank is installed in the attic or under the ceiling of a residential floor and is automatically filled when water is supplied to the suburban water supply system.

What does it look like to connect an autonomous water supply to a storage tank with your own hands? The external water supply is connected to the float valve installed under the tank lid (the same as in the toilet cistern).

The internal water supply of the house is cut off from the tank only by a ball valve, which allows it to be dumped for repairing plumbing without losing water.

How to calculate the required volume of the container? The instruction is very simple: the minimum volume is equal to the product of the maximum interval between water supplies according to the schedule and its daily consumption (on average 200 liters per person per day). For example, for two residents, when supplying water twice a week, a tank of 200x2x4 = 1600 liters is enough.

The advantage of the solution is obvious: the water supply from the tank is completely non-volatile. If your lights are often turned off, this will not affect the water supply.

Alas, such an autonomous water supply scheme for a private house also has several rather unpleasant disadvantages:

• The water supply is limited by the strength of the floors;

• For winter operation, the tank must be installed in a heated room, which in the case of an attic means extra costs;
• The solution is not suitable for one-storey house with flat roof or a garage: there is simply nowhere to place a container in them;
• The pressure in the gravity water supply is limited by the difference in height between the water level in the storage tank and the point of draw-off.

Meanwhile: for normal operation of household appliances using water (flow heaters, washing machines etc.), a head of at least 3 meters is required.

Scheme 4: tank with a pumping station

The last scheme is devoid of these shortcomings - with the supply of water from a container by a pumping station already familiar to us. The tank is installed in the basement or basement, which makes it possible not to worry about heating it.

The container can be filled:

• From the country water supply;
• Imported water;
• Filtered rainwater.

Internal water supply

What pipes to carry out the installation of autonomous water supply inside the house?

They combine low cost with durability and ease of installation. Their only drawback - limited resistance to overheating and water hammer - is leveled by the stability of the water supply parameters in the autonomous system.

Conclusion

As you can see, all the proposed schemes are easy to implement and, in the presence of a water source, do not require significant costs. Good luck!

A decade or two ago, living in a private house meant putting up with a number of inconveniences in everyday life, which invariably appeared in this case. As an example, it is easy to name the absence in such a building of a bathroom or at least a shower, a sink in the kitchen, hand washing clothes and, of course, the fact that there is a toilet exclusively outside the home. The lack of a centralized water supply meant the constant replenishment of water supplies exclusively with water from the well, which was physically quite difficult. The situation was better if it was possible to draw water from the column.

All the same, it put people in front of the need to constantly walk for water and simply took up precious time. Again, washing dishes in a basin and swimming in it is not the best solution. And most of the above problems were solved only by connecting the house to a centralized water supply. The most interesting thing is that it is not necessary to do this with the help of government agencies. You can do this yourself, even on the basis of a well or a well. And this will make it possible to enjoy various civilizational benefits no worse than in an apartment. This article will show you how to put it into practice.

Peculiarities

Water supply of a private house is the provision of a building of the specified type with water. There are various solutions to provide residents with water at home, depending on what kind of water sources are near the building. It should be noted that it is possible to speak of a normal water supply only if the inhabitants who live in it do not experience any problems in the provision of water resources.

Regulation of this issue should be carried out according to the main normative act - SNiP 2.04.01-85 under the title "Water consumption rate by consumers". The regulation of water consumption according to this rate is from 80 to 230 liters per person per day. Such a large spread depends on whether the house has a sewage system, a shower or a bathroom, a water heater, and a centralized water supply.

It is clear that in high-rise buildings this issue is practically not worth it at all due to the presence of most of the above benefits. And at the dacha or residential cottage, you will have to provide water supply on your own.

Sources and subtleties of water intake

It should be said that there are several options for the formation of the water intake mechanism. Much will depend on the water supply source, as well as other points.

If we are talking about centralized water supply, meaning a water supply system, then its creation is possible only if a water main passes at least not too far from the building you are interested in. To connect to it, you should visit the organization that maintains such mechanisms and on whose balance sheet it is. Here you should be told on what conditions you can connect your house to the water supply.

You should be told about where the connection point will be, how deep the water pipes will be laid, what diameter they will have, and also what pressure you can count on.

If we consider the practical side, then this option has certain disadvantages:

• rapid drop or absence of any water pressure;
• rather poor water quality and the presence of a variety of impurities;
• in an accident, the building remains without water, and for how long is often unknown;
• you have to pay for this service every month.

There is also an autonomous water supply. A similar mechanism, as a rule, is implemented based on the use of a well or a well. Let's consider both options.

The answer to the question whether a well or a well is better depends on the following factors:

• the location of the aquifer and the depth of occurrence;
• the performance that a water vein can provide;
• properties of the earth itself.

If we talk about the version based on a well, then it is usually done when the water consumed for food is at a depth of 5-16 meters. The aquifer type layer must be large in order for its capabilities to be enough to meet family needs.

Better to count on a family of four. As a rule, such a family needs about 200 liters per day.

The advantages of just such a water supply system will be that if the electricity goes out, and, accordingly, the automation, then it will be possible to get water using the simplest bucket on a rope. The operation of the well can be carried out for about 50 years, which is significantly longer than the life of any well. You can also significantly reduce the cost of construction work if you independently dig a well shaft. In this case, you only have to pay for the material of the walls of the well and the installation of the rings themselves.

Before making a decision, you should talk to people who are already using the chosen option. You can take water for analysis to see if it is suitable for everyday use. Most often, if there are wells in the area, then it makes no sense to make wells. Exactly the same situation will be with the wells.

If we talk about this option, then the wells are different. For example, there are wells of artesian type or solutions "on the sand".

The sand well is so named because it usually touches the aquifer from the top, which is located in the sand-type horizon. It is usually located behind a loamy layer that filters groundwater... Typically, such a well has a depth of 50 meters. In general, the occurrence of the water layer may vary from region to region, so the indicated borehole depth can easily differ. There are cases when a depth of 15 meters is enough for drilling a well if you get on the river underground.

Such a solution will be optimal, because there will simply be no clogging of pipes and filters with sand. Such an aquifer system will work for 15-20 years. And the usual sand - a maximum of 5-7 years. It will be much cheaper to make it manually, but the soil pulling will be less. In addition, there are excellent chances of getting into a large aquifer with clear water. But machine drilling will be significantly more expensive and its efficiency will be lower, since the machine simply punches a hole at a given depth.

And this is not the case when the deeper the well, the better.

If we talk about artesian-type wells, then they usually use an aquifer that is located in limestone rocks. Their depth is much deeper than sand and is about 130-140 meters. The water here will be of much better quality and its supply will be practically unlimited. Water intake is carried out without any special equipment because the water is under the influence of pressure and just shoots upwards. In addition, the ingress of sewage or groundwater into such a well is completely excluded. A well can be used for about half a century, that is, in the same way as a well. The cost of drilling will be significantly higher than that of the “sand” option. This is mainly due to the substantially greater depth.

But the main problem will not even be this, but the fact that such wells need registration, because we are talking about strategic state reserves.

And all this paperwork can take a significant amount of time.

Note that the options for the implementation of the water intake of the technical category are usually located no closer than twenty meters from the cleaning mechanisms, compost pits, and the like. For their arrangement, it is necessary to choose a non-flooded site, where flooding and subsequent infection with bacteria are completely excluded. It should also be noted that the water intake structure should be surrounded by a blind area, which is about two meters wide, as well as a clay castle with a meter deep and half a meter wide. Its ground part will have a height of 70-90 centimeters and a cover that protects from dust and precipitation.

Device

The water supply mechanism is one of the main components of home life. There is no point in talking about her work again. The design of the network is made so that the building is fully supplied with water according to the needs of the owners.

It is necessary to organize a mechanism so that water flows to the points of water intake from the water metering unit. This mechanism makes it possible to significantly reduce housing costs.

In order for such a system to function efficiently, it must be equipped with technical devices and equipment that provides not only partially, but also fully automatic operating mode. For the system to become such, the installation of a hydraulic accumulator is necessary. It is used as a buffer tank, where a water supply is formed, or as a device that allows you to maintain a stable water pressure in the mechanism. A membrane tank will also be needed. It is usually subdivided into 2 compartments. One will contain water, and the other will contain air. They are separated by a rubber membrane. When the container is filled with water, the air part is compressed more and increases the pressure inside the tank.

When the pressure rises, an electrical relay switches off the pump.

At the moment when a water supply tap opens somewhere, the pressure in the system begins to slowly drop. The electrical relay reacts to this change again. It activates the pump again when the used water level approaches 50 percent. The use of a hydraulic accumulator allows not only to ensure the automation of all water supply systems and to create water reserves, but also significantly extend the life of the pumping equipment by reducing the number of switching on and off.

It should be said that autonomous water supply mechanisms usually consist of external and internal elements. The interior usually includes pipes laid from the source to water intake points, plumbing equipment, fittings, a storage tank, a pump, and a hydraulic accumulator.

In order to select the features of the mechanism as accurately and correctly as possible, you should:

• clearly formulate the requirements for how intensive and regular water supply you require;
• understand what sources of water supply are, as well as how much this or that system will cost;
• analyze water quality;
• select equipment and calculate the approximate cost of laying engineering type networks.

How to choose?

To make the choice of a water supply mechanism in the case under consideration, or for some kind of building similar in type, you need to build on a number of criteria. The budget that a person is willing to spend on it will also depend on what type of water supply system will be chosen. It should also not be forgotten that the choice of a water supply mechanism can be based not only on the conditions in which the family lives, and on the goals that are planned to be achieved. This choice is also influenced by the type of water supply system.

There are two main categories:

• gravity;
• pressure head.

Both options have their advantages and disadvantages. For example, the gravity version has an affordable price, and the savings on equipment in this case will be very decent. Simply put, the gravity mechanism is a water tower or tower, as well as a container. Considering that the capacity of the tower is at the top, the consumers receive water without any pumps. Usually gravity systems are used in summer cottages or in country houses, where no one lives on a permanent basis, since heating water in such tanks, as well as its purification, is a rather problematic issue.

If you decide to approach this issue more rationally and effectively, then a pressure analogue will be an excellent solution for you. It works as expected - on a combination of pumps, as well as a hydraulic accumulator, which is installed in the water supply mechanism. The use of this option allows you to be sure that water in your house will be constantly in the required amount... The cost of this type of mechanism will be higher than that of a gravity system. But the difference in operation will be significant, and for people who value comfort, this will be a much better solution than tormenting with a gravity system.

The installation of pressure solutions will definitely be the right decision if a water supply system is used, which will be based on a well or an artesian source. In such places, the water is clean, that is, there is no need to purify and filter it. In general, if you install a filter, you can be sure that the residents of the house will drink clean water.

But the most important advantage of such a system will, of course, be the ability to obtain what amount of water is needed at any time of the day or year.

Connection diagram

Now we should talk about plans for connecting various systems, depending on a number of factors. And this is not only about the water source. Much will depend on the goals of the residents of the house and their wishes and needs. The structure of a system built on a well and a system based on an artesian well will be different. For this reason, this issue should be discussed in more detail.

Wells

The water supply mechanisms of a private house from a well contain three main parts:

• source of water supply;
• pumping device, which consists of a hydraulic accumulator and a pump;
• pipeline.

There is nothing difficult in the device of this type of mechanism, so it is possible to make it yourself. It should be said that even when you make a calculation, do it in such a way that the water supply and drainage are done together and you can mount them at once. In order to conduct water from the well, a pipeline should be laid from it. Piping will consist of working with the ground, namely digging trenches, laying pipes and creating an airtight connection between them. On one part, the entire pipeline structure is connected to the source, and on the other, to the consumer. Also, one of the types of accumulator is connected to the system, which usually has automation. You should also ensure that the pipes are insulated. The best solution would be to simply fill the trenches with concrete, and also treat the resulting tunnel with hydrocement. This technique takes quite a long time to be implemented, because first you need to formwork, make reinforcement, provide access, and so on, which makes its cost high.

In this case, you should not try to lay pipes below the freezing point of the soil, unless it is at a depth of two meters. The best solution in this case would be the usual laying of pipes, but also the use of complex insulation and a heating cable. With the latter, everything is clear - it is attached with a special tape for mounting, usually made of aluminum according to the instructions. As a rule, one end of the cable is coupled at the manufacturing plant, and at the other end there will be a plug. When it has been installed, all that remains is to plug it in.

When the cable is installed, it is necessary to make a complex pipe insulation. It is better to use foil-clad materials for it, based on fiberglass or fiberglass. In order to resist corrosion of pipes, it is better to choose solutions from polypropylene. For heating the pipeline, a resistive single-core or two-core cable must be used. It is best to take a two-wire wire and not try to save money.

An important point will be that there are such wires with permanent and variable connections. It is best to take a model with variable resistance, because it will be cheaper and will constantly work at full power.

Yes, this option will be more expensive, but it will consume less energy.

But in general, the best solution in this case, there will be a self-regulating wire having a variable resistance type. It is usually sold as pre-fabricated sections that come in different lengths.

Now let's say a little about the accumulator. Through the pipeline, water enters the accumulator, and from there to consumers. Many consumers generally buy expensive pumping solutions from European manufacturers, where a hydraulic accumulator is not needed either. But it is not possible to independently mount such a solution, unless the person is a specialist in working with electronic models of this type.

That is why a hydraulic accumulator will be simply necessary. It must accumulate moisture in itself and provide, maintain a certain level of pressure in the system. As a rule, it is mounted on a storage tank.

Central water supply

If we talk about the water supply scheme of a private house of a centralized type, then it means putting in order all the legal documents that secure the right for a person to own the house, as well as the plot on which it is located. That is, at the first stage, you first need to get in the office of the geological cadastre a plan of the site where the house is located, on a scale of one to five hundred. All communications passing underground, which are located on the site, as well as pipe laying routes passing through it from the central water pipe, must be precisely plotted on it.

After the technical conditions for connection have been received, you should write an appeal to the local "Vodokanal". It is possible that this service may be paid. In addition, the technical conditions for connection can be prepared by the relevant authority within one calendar month. Formation of the project after receiving them will also be paid, but it must be done. Its implementation can be ordered in a special design department of Vodokanal itself. In the presence of technical conditions the next step is to obtain consent for connection from the SES. As a rule, this also takes one calendar month. Despite the fact that, as a rule, the organization that develops the project itself conducts its approval with the city utilities - gas workers, power engineers, signalmen, it will not be superfluous to obtain permission from all of the above structures for the applicant himself, since if there is a need for this, then the response time to the appeal in these organizations will also be equal to thirty days.

And only after the project has been drawn up and all its approvals with the competent authorities have been carried out, it is necessary to register it with the sanitary-epidemiological authority in order to obtain the appropriate permits.

Note that in the overwhelming number of cases, the company that will draw up the project will offer a water supply scheme in the building, where there are several points for connecting household appliances and plumbing fixtures. It is considered standard. In this case, the internal wiring can be anything depending on the wishes of the customer. Although it should be said that it should be such that the system can be easily upgraded at any time.

For example, make it a bypass line in the house.

This is not surprising due to the fact that specialists in design organizations clearly understand that the process of building a house can take a long time and at some point significant adjustments can be made to its design, due to which the internal wiring will have to be significantly changed ... The only thing that can be said for sure is that the water meter is always installed in the place where it is marked on the project.

During the design process, if specialists are involved in this process, then immediately at the site of the shooting of the object, the wishes of the owner of the house will be taken into account about where it is better to place certain devices, as well as how it will be better to lay communications. If we are talking about the construction of a standard building according to a standard design, then the design of a water supply system will be carried out according to a standard model for this category of buildings.

Mounting

Like any other work with engineering-type mechanisms, the formation of a water supply system for a private building with your own hands should be performed in a clear and definite sequence. First, it is necessary to equip the water source directly, that is, to carry out, for example, horizontal directional drilling (HDD).

After that, the installation is carried out:

• pipes, both those outside and those inside;
• various pumps and additional equipment;
• cleaning filters;
• distribution collector;
• devices that will heat the water.

The final stage will be the implementation of the direct connection of plumbing fixtures.

It should be noted that the methods of installing water supply mechanisms with submersible and surface type may differ significantly. If we talk about surface centrifugal solutions, then they are usually installed in the outdoor branch, where the insulation was previously carried out, or directly in the basement of the house. But a submersible pump is usually simply connected to a cable through which electricity is supplied, as well as a hose, after which it is lowered into the water and suspended on a nylon cable, which, as a rule, is included with the device.

To navigate with submersible pump water, it is necessary to measure the size of the cable and hose before lowering it. They are usually connected with plastic clamps every four meters and connected to the pump. After that, holding exclusively by the cable and in no case by the cable or hose, the pump is lowered to a depth that was determined in advance and is securely fixed. The manufacturer usually writes the permissible distance to the bottom on the package. Now you need to attach a head to the casing.

The hole in the center leads out the electrical cable and hose. Now you need to bind the cable. At the final stage, it is required to fasten the bolts well so that the entire structure is completely sealed. Now you can proceed to the next stage - laying and installing the supply pipe.

If the well is not too deep, then a cable made of nylon, which holds the pumping device, is tied to a rubber harness, which is attached to the head, which should damp pump vibrations.

The next stage is the laying of the outer pipes. Usually pipes made of polyethylene or metal-plastic are used. The latter solution is stronger, but when it comes to bending the pipe, this model will be worse. Steel pipes are also sometimes used for this. They may not have a galvanized coating or have it, as well as be covered with a special anti-corrosion treatment. If the pipe is really of high quality, then it should be marked. He also should not emit a chemical smell. There should be no extra stripes or stains on it.

If we talk about laying the pipeline, then this must be done lower than the level of freezing of the earth, by 50 centimeters. If laying will be done at a shallower depth, then insulation should be used.

The connection of individual pipe sections will be carried out using collet fittings without seals and fum tape.

Pipe installation is usually carried out as follows. A small trench is being dug to a freezing depth plus 50 centimeters. After that, a pillow is made at the bottom of compacted river or quarry-type sand. Now the bottom needs to be leveled with a slope of two to three centimeters per meter. The next point - it is necessary to insulate the section of the water supply system, which will be laid, above the depth of seasonal freezing to the place where it enters the foundation of the building. To do this, we carry out pipelaying and pour clean sand on it so that there is no clay.

When laying pipes, it is recommended to avoid different connections and do not use fittings. Otherwise, it will become more difficult to repair such a pipeline. If there is a need for underground branching, then it is best to use welding fittings.

As a result, you get a pretty good monolithic solder joint, where there will be no threads.

The next stage where you should stop your attention is the introduction of the pipe into the foundation. It is better to do this procedure through a special sleeve. This is the name for a larger pipe. Such a solution will make it possible to repair the pipeline, if necessary. And in some cases, if the pipe is not very long, then this will make it possible to pull it out without digging a trench where it is located. You can also make a summer plumbing to water your vegetables. There is no need to bury it in the ground. If such a system is deepened, then it is imperative to provide for the possibility of draining in order to mothball it for the winter. A standard slope is simply made towards the source of the water intake. It is better to protect a number of pipes from exposure altogether. low temperatures, as well as from exposure to the rays of the sun.

For this reason, even for summer use, it is better to lay such an option underground.

It should be said that when laying HDPE pipes, the permitted bending radii should be taken into account as a minimum. They will depend on the SDR. Or it may happen that in the place of bending the radius of the pipe decreases so that this will cause an increase in pressure in this place of the pipe, and the load on the pumping device can increase significantly.

Now we turn to the installation of the internal section of the water supply system of a residential cottage. The layout and installation may differ for different buildings, and very significantly. If we proceed from the individual planning and zoning of the building, the number of floors in it, the availability of plumbing, then an individual water supply system should be drawn up for a private cottage.

You can dilute the internal pipeline using one of two methods:

• collector;
• tee.

In general, they do not differ much. They can be roughly described as follows. First, you should make a markup where the pipes will be located, pre-grind the walls and install the fasteners. At the exit of the pipe into the house, it is necessary to mount a ball-type valve. Now the collector is being installed, and pipes will be connected to it, dividing them into several circuits. Metal-plastic pipes are best connected using press fittings, and polyethylene and polypropylene models - using a welding machine. Before closing the grooves, the operability of the mechanism should be assessed. To do this, it is necessary to inspect the quality of the pipe connection, evaluate the operation of the pumping unit, and also check how the control automation works.

If hot water supply is needed or the system will be used for heating, then it will be necessary to connect a device to it that will be responsible for heating the water.

Uninterrupted water supply and good pressure can ensure long and efficient operation of various plumbing and household appliances.

In order for the water intake mechanism to be organized correctly, experts recommend:

• It is best to carry out the water supply in the summer, so that you can understand exactly where the water source is. In addition, it is in the summer that the level of groundwater decreases as much as possible.
• When choosing a pump, it is best to choose devices where water sensors are already built in.
• To maintain permanent high pressure in the plumbing system, too many corners and bends should be avoided when laying the piping.
• To carry out the installation of the pipeline from the well to the house, it is better to use a special type of food pipes with certain markings.
• Before using the system, it is imperative to carry out a test run of the device. This will make it possible to check the system for faults and eliminate them without any serious consequences.

• It is best to introduce pipes into a building through walls using special "glasses" made of metal and plastic. The places where the input is carried out must be insulated.
• In order for the operation of the water supply system to be uninterrupted, it is necessary that the pressure in the hydraulic tank is 0.2 bar less than the lower edge in the entire water supply system.
• For correct use collector, at first, it is imperative to install shut-off valves, as well as a tap to drain the water.
• To create a system that will be as efficient as possible, you should not save on consumables, since then it can still cause new costs and costs that will be even more than we would like.

Organizing water supply to a private house with your own hands is a very important issue that not only requires the owner of the house to pay special attention, but also a clear understanding of how such a water supply mechanism generally works and what features the various components of the equipment have.

On summer cottage Vladimir, there is a water supply system near Moscow. But the catch is that the water in SNT is turned on in May and turned off in October. Therefore, he decided to provide himself with an autonomous water supply and make a well in order to have water. all year round.

Well - a budget option for organizing an autonomous water supply system

Neighbors of Vladimir, who understood from their own experience what an autonomous
water supply and what advantages it gives, they said that it is at a depth of 6-10 meters. On reflection, he decided to plug the Abyssinian well, because this is the simplest and most cost-effective solution to the problem. First, I turned to several professionals in this field, including from the forumhouse. They gave the necessary and valuable advice, which could be used, but all orders are scheduled until the summer. He could not wait, so he decided to do the well himself.

Purchase of materials

On the market, he bought galvanized pipes an inch and a quarter of 5 pieces, 1.6 meters each, they were also threaded there.

Acquired: steel couplings, an adapter for a hand pump and a needle with a filter, the main elements of an autonomous water supply system. Vladimir especially liked the quality of the needle.

After the chiseled needle, after 10 cm, a special mesh is wound and soldered around the pipe. Before winding and soldering it, holes are drilled in the pipe itself, through which, having filtered through this mesh, water enters the pipe.

As usual, there was a local locksmith, Uncle Vanya, who made "Baba" and a tip for the bubble.

The tip is made on a cone to center the impact. The impact surface inside the woman has the same shape. Since the tip is larger in diameter than the pipe itself, a ring is attached to the bottom of the woman on two bolts with an inner diameter along the pipe. Thus, the woman slides along the pipe without any backlash with a working stroke of about 40 cm. She weighs 25 kg.

He took a hand pump for pumping from a friend.

Plugging of pipes

Vladimir's house stands on columnar foundation about a meter from the ground, so from the very beginning he decided to make a well directly below him. First of all, in the right place, he made an opening in the floor.

Then he drilled the first half a meter of soil with an ordinary drill, adding boiling water. Boiling water was pouring because it was winter. The occupation is quite laborious, but he did it because he was afraid to damage the needle or bend the pipe on the frozen ground. But now the permafrost has been passed. You can score.

First, he hammered the pipe a little, then set it vertically along a plumb line. I cut a hole under it in the boards so that the pipe does not deviate from the vertical, and nailed them.

After that, the process started. As we advanced, a coupling was screwed on, then a new pipe. He screwed the sleeve onto the flax and paint.

With each blow of the woman, the pipe moved 2-5 mm. Slowly but surely Vladimir was hammering the pipes.

After 6 meters, he periodically took pictures of the woman, poured water into the pipe and watched whether he was leaving or not. The water began to drain when 8 meters were clogged, which means that it fell into the aquifer. Therefore, after that, he screwed the hand pump to the pipe, refilled the water and started pumping ...

And when the water came out of the pump in a powerful stream, he was more delighted with it than dying in the desert. At first the water was completely gray. After the pump had pumped out about 50 buckets, the color began to gradually lighten up to the color of tap water. But the pressure did not dry out.

Explanations:

When the filter enters the aquifer with a hand pump, you need to start pumping out water. First, dirt will rise, which is in the immediate vicinity of the filter. Then a space is formed around the filter in height greater than the aquifer itself. This space is called a lens. That is, in the aquifer near the filter, a water supply is formed, a kind of lake, and the larger it is, the better.

To prevent the filter from silting up, you first need to pump it very well so that a sufficiently large lens is formed. Well, then, as often as possible, pump water, do not let the well stagnate. Then everything will be all right.

Result

Vladimir does not yet know how much water comes from the well, he did not have time to measure the flow rate. But, judging by how the water flows with the help of a hand pump, the system works - it should be enough. He collected a bucket in about 1 minute. He expects that it will be enough for a shower, a washbasin, a sink in the kitchen and a storage water boiler at a time when the water supply is turned off.

And to complete the work, Vladimir still needs to purchase a pumping station and then he will have such an advantage on the site as an autonomous water supply.

The cost of the project of an autonomous water supply system:

1. Pipe 8 meters - 1840 rubles.
2. Needle with filter - 3000 rubles.
3. Couplings and threading - 250 + 400 = 650 rubles.
4. An adapter for a hand pump - 120 rubles.
5. Baba + tip - 1 bubble.
6. Pumping station- approximately 15 thousand rubles.

Posted by a member of the forum

Editor: Adamov Roman

A complete list of information on how to make and configure an automatic water supply system in a private house.

This article is a complete tutorial for dummies! Even experienced specialists can learn something!

In this article, you will learn how to make an automatic water supply in a private house with your own hands. This article is a complete training course for dummies. According to these recommendations, you yourself will be able to correctly assemble and mount the entire automatic water supply system, from the borehole pump to the outputs to the points of water consumption.

This course was developed by a specialist with many years of experience in the water and heating industry. According to my recommendations, you yourself will be able to install the water supply, unless, of course, your hands grow from where you need to!

You will definitely find answers to pressing questions:

• Automatic water supply station
• What should be the water supply scheme
• How to equip a well (what should be the well and the level of the well pipe from the floor).
• Well pumps. How to choose a pump for a well
• How to connect and lead a water supply pipeline
• How to assemble an automatic circuit that will: turn on and off the borehole pump as needed?
• Private house filter system
• Power supply to the borehole pump
• Setting the thresholds for switching on and off pumps
• Hydraulic accumulator (expansion tank) for water supply. Hydraulic accumulator connection
• Heating cable for water supply. Pipeline freeze safety
• Operation and frequent system malfunctions

How to equip a well

There are a variety of wells. We will not consider artesian wells, there is a different system. The most common standard well today is this well with a depth of 25 to 50 meters. We will consider it.

And so you have a well ready. If not, then contact the organizations that are engaged in drilling water wells.

Consider the most common case when the well is on the street near the house. You have a pipe with a diameter of 100-159 mm sticking out of the ground stupidly. If in your area the water level does not rise below two meters from the ground level, then you are in luck. You can make a well for a well. I mean that in swampy places it can be difficult to make wells, since there is a possibility of flooding the upper water into the well itself. Well, it is not advisable to make wells in swampy places. In swampy places, you will have to make small insulated closed annexes above ground level. The extension should make it possible to service the well system. And that is the ability to change the pump, and the ability to clean the well itself. If we take into account the very room in which the well pipe will be located, then it must be at least 1x1 meter wide and at least 1 meter high, provided that there is a hatch above the well pipe. If there is a side door, then up to 2 meters high. To be able to drain the pump along with the water supply. It is better to insulate this building from all sides (including the top and bottom) with a polystyrene foam board in the form of foam plastic with a thickness of at least 100 mm. Since it makes no sense to heat this room. In order for the water in the pipe not to freeze, it is necessary to overlay the pipe with a heating cable. We will talk about the heating cable later. The downhole pipe from the floor level must be at least 400mm. just in case from accidental floods, so that the upper waters do not fall into the well. (See image)

For the place of the concrete screed, you can lay a brick or cinder block, at your discretion.

If the place is not swampy and there is an opportunity to make a well.

Let's call a well a room below ground level. This well, too, must be insulated with a polystyrene foam plate in the form of foam plastic with a thickness of at least 100 mm. We make insulation so that the water in the pipe is winter period not frozen. But even with such insulation of the well, it is still necessary to attach a heating cable along the pipe for insurance. The well pipe should also not be lower than 400mm from the floor level. (See image)

The hatch or any other doors in winter should be dully insulated. If the doors or hatch are not insulated, then it is possible to lay soft cotton wool on the entire space of the pipeline for additional insulation. A well is considered a more reliable device for a well. Since it is in the ground and because of this, it will be much warmer in it and the risk of freezing the pipe is minimal. Since the temperature of +8 degrees Celsius comes out of the inner layers of the earth. The deeper the well, the warmer it will be in the well.

How to carry out water supply from the well to the house?

Consider the image

What's in the picture is perfect. The pipe should be 2 meters below ground level. In this case, the pipe may freeze at the lifting points. Especially near the foundation, which is not insulated from the outside. By the way, the foundation must be insulated at least to a depth of 1 meter.

The pipe must be well insulated and a self-regulating heating cable must be attached to the pipe.

As for the pipe, the pipe that leads from the well to the house must be made of metal-plastic or cross-linked polyethylene. Also, a HDPE pipe is allowed from cheap materials. But I do not recommend carrying out the HDPE pipe. It will be weaker than metal plastic. It will be safer to hold metal-plastic without tearing and corners. You are digging a hole where the pipe will run once and possibly forever. So this metal-plastic pipe is not afraid of bends. And also can withstand several times of freezing of water in the pipe. HDPE pipe when frozen is strongly subject to destruction. Do not try to stretch the hoses, no matter who persuades you.

As for the diameter of the pipeline, for an ordinary, even large house up to 400m2, 32 mm in diameter is required. Even if you have one water supply unit, a 32mm diameter is still required. Below we will consider an automatic water supply system schematically, and I will explain why such a diameter is needed.

In practice, very often we are too lazy to dig a trench for a water supply! And I will please you that you don't have to dig a trench for the water supply. But for this it is necessary to comply with the conditions so that the water in the pipe does not freeze.

If the pipe runs along the top, then a self-regulating heating cable of at least 9 W / meter must be attached to such a pipe. Also, the entire pipe must be thoroughly insulated with an insulation thickness of at least 100mm. Insulation must be particularly tight. Make the first three layers of Energoflex, with an increase in the diameter of Energoflex, wrap each joints between Energoflexes with reliable reinforced tape for good sealing between the layers. This is a must, and then you can wrap it with cotton. The insulation must pass through into the well and through into the house, so that these places do not freeze.

If you decide to dig a shallow hole, in the range of 0.5-1 meter, then for this you also need to attach a heating cable to the water supply and insulate it in two or three layers of energy flex and push it into the sewer pipe so that the energy flex does not crumple. If the energy flex is compacted, then it will begin to lose its thermal insulation properties.

Special corrugated plastic pipes are also sold. large diameter, you can shove them in.

This is enough to insulate a pipe in the ground. The self-regulating cable maintains a positive water supply temperature. The energy-flex layers impede the passage of temperature. And the outer tube is necessary to maintain the shape of the energy flex. Since if you start to ram energoflex, then it will lose its insulating properties.

A heating cable is wrapped on tape or reinforced tape. Heating cable parameters: not less than 9 W / m. the energy flex is pushed through, the joints of the energy flex are wound with scotch tape. Then the whole cake is pushed into the outer tube. It can be a red sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 or a corrugation of the original diameter. It is advisable, if you have a swampy place, then fasten the outer pipe tightly so that water does not seep inside. It is necessary to smooth the joints well with reinforced tape.

The self-regulating heating cable is designed to regulate the temperature itself. That is, if the heating cable is heated, it stops consuming energy or tends to stop consuming electricity. This means that the cable itself will consume energy depending on the heat loss. The better the pipe is insulated, the less energy will be consumed by the heating cable.

If you decide to dig deep up to 2 meters from ground level, then I would advise you to also lay the heating cable, since you will most likely have pipe rises, and in these places the pipes may freeze. It is also necessary to attach a heating cable in the well itself along the water pipe. And wrap the well pipe itself up to the floor of the well with a heating cable with a step of 200 mm.

It is very convenient to lay the supply cable of the borehole pump in place with the pipe.

It is better to take a 4-core electrical wire for the pump with a cross section of at least 2.5. Why 4-core, because there are pumps to which power goes through 4 cores. And the box (ROM) of the power supply itself can be mounted in a warm room at home. But there are also pumps to which the supply goes through two veins. And 4 lived it like that, just in case. Suddenly you decide to take a pump to which 4 cores go. A cross section of 2.5 is also with a margin, so that, if anything, be able to power a more powerful pump in the future.

For the self-regulating heating cable, do not forget to buy a heat shrink sleeve with metal contacts for it. The heat-shrink sleeve makes it possible to carry out two operations with the heating cable: - this is to connect the heating cable to the electric cable and - this is to seal the other end of the heating cable. That is, you need to power it on one side with an electric cable, and close the other end of the cable with a sealed tip. If that ask the salesperson's consultant.

There is also another way to pull the heating cable through, this is when the heating cable is passed inside the pipe. There are special self-regulating cables that are designed for water environments, these cables are usually shiny smooth. There are special adapters that make it possible to make a reliable seal at the junction or entrance to the pipe. There, at the entrance, there is a thick elastic band that is clamped and expands all the cracks to prevent leaks. I will tell you the connection is very reliable.

Which pump to choose for the well?

There are enough pumps on the market to think about which pump do you need !?

For temporary use, you can use a vibration pump

Just don't try to buy

Remember! If you buy Vacuum self-priming pump- you will regret! Then remember my words!

For a good, trouble-free automatic system water supply in your country house, only one type of pump is needed - this is submersible rotary pump or borehole centrifugal pump designed to pump water from a well. This is what they look like:

And so we figured out the type of pump! This is a borehole submersible rotary pump.

Now let's figure out the pump parameters.

There are two main parameters for all pumps:

Pump head is the pressure force created by the blades to push the water. Indicated in meters.

Pump flow - This is the amount of fluid passing through per unit of time. That is, it is the ability of the pump to pump a certain amount of liters per minute. Usually indicated in liters per hour. Or a universal unit: - This is a cubic meter per hour [m3 / h].

To select a pump, some information is needed:

• Borehole depth
• The minimum column of water in the well
• Highest point of water consumption
• Optimal water consumption

You can measure the depth and water level with a regular rope. Just tie a heavy weight to the rope and lower it into the hole, and by the characteristic change in the movement of the rope, you can determine when the water starts and when the weight reaches the bottom of the hole. Mark the length of the rope somehow. Next, simply measure the length by the marks on the rope.

Precise calculation of head determination!

And so, let's get started! The image shows a diagram that allows you to see all the heads required for calculations. If there is no image, then refresh the page! If after refreshing the page the image does not appear, then write in the comments about this problem. Comments are at the end of the article.

At first, who is far from understanding the pressure, then I recommend that you familiarize yourself with: What is pressure?

Secondly, short story on how to understand this scheme. The diagram has vertical dimensions. It is necessary to mentally cut off all the turns of the pipeline - they do not exist. In addition, the calculation of the calculation of the pump head does not affect the horizontal pipeline. All you need to know is their high-rise location. Since in most cases the length of horizontal pipes is very small and does not exceed 30 meters. 30 meters for hydraulic resistance is very small and not worth it to take into account. The difference does not exceed 10%. And also the horizontal pipeline adds only dynamic hydraulic resistance. And for the calculation, we only need to know the head created by the height.

Thirdly, Pressure and head are synonymous. Pressure at 1 bar = 10 meters head.

To be more precise:

• 1 Pa = 1 N / m2 = 1 atmosphere = 10 meters of water column.
• 1 atmosphere = 0.981 bar.
• 1 bar = 0.1 MPa or 100,000 Pa.
• 1 atmosphere = 735.5 mm Hg.

Fourth, and so on ...
To calculate, the first thing you need to know or choose the appropriate pressure in the tap of the last (second) floor. For a private house, you can take from 10 to 25 meters of pressure. For example, in the central water supply, in apartments this redistribution is from 20-40 meters. 10 meters is considered economical option and is quite suitable for water supply. In addition, the lower the head, the more you save the energy consumed by the pump - a fact!

For example, remember, come in handy: I choose 10 meters of minimum head at the second floor tap.

Accordingly, the minimum pressure in the crane of the 1st floor will be equal to the difference in height. If the floor is 3 meters, then the minimum head = 13 meters.

The automatic pressure switch unit is located from the second floor crane at a height 6 meters lower. This means that the minimum head in the pressure switch will be 16 meters. And so the threshold for switching on the pump will be 16 meters (1.6 bar).

We add another 15 meters to 16 meters and we get the maximum pressure of the relay. That is, the threshold for switching off the relay should be 31 meters. You can, of course, add 10 meters for economy. And then get a shutdown threshold of 26 meters and you will also be right.

And so we choose the threshold for turning off the pump at 31 meters.

To find this pressure, you need to know:

• Minimum water column;
• Well depth;
• Height from the ground to the automatic pressure switch unit.

Most experts will not tell you the minimum water column right away. The minimum water column is determined practically. If you do not have such data, then you can safely take into account the minimum height of the pump from the bottom. That is, in our case, we take the place where the pump is located as the minimum water column (the upper point of the pump).

Data for our case:

• Minimum water column = 10 meters;
• Well depth = 30 meters;
• Height from the ground to the automatic pressure switch unit = 2 meters;
• Maximum head of the pressure switch = 31 meters.

Calculation: Set head = Well depth - minimum water column + height (from the ground to relay automation) + Maximum pressure of the pressure switch. Total = 30 - 10 + 2 + 31 = 53 meters.

With a little practice in the calculations, you can count in a different way - easier. For the calculation, we need to know the height from minimum water column up to the mark in maximum head... See the diagram above.

1. To make up for losses in case of voltage drop in the network. When the voltage in the network drops, then the pressure of the pump itself drops.

2. For good achievement of the maximum pressure threshold. If you select the pump head with the set head, then a situation may arise when the pump cannot reach the maximum pressure threshold on the relay. And the system will freeze in a suspended position. Very often in this case, pumps burn out. If your voltage is weak, then install voltage stabilizers.

Maximum pump head will be equal to 120% of the set head.

In our case: Maximum pump head = set head x 1.2 = 53 x 1.2 = 63.6 meters.

That's actually what was required to find !!! The final pump head will be: 63.6 meters.

If your voltage often drops, then it is better to install a voltage stabilizer on the pump.

Keep in mind that the higher the head and flow rate of the pump, the more electricity it consumes. The higher the flow rate and speed of water in the pipe, the greater the pressure loss in the pipeline. Excessive losses in the pipeline can take extra energy from the pump for pumping water. Thus, the system becomes not economical. And these pumps consume about 1-1.5 kW.

Borehole pump schedule with parameters (Head 70 meters and flow rate up to 4 m3 / hour).

The greatest demand is for pumps with a head of 60-80 meters. And with a flow rate of up to 4 m3 / hour.

If you have more than three bathrooms with baths or showers in your house, then you should pay attention to the consumption, that 3-4 m3 / hour may not be enough. And if you have a swimming pool in your house, it is better to take a pump with a flow rate of up to 10 m3 / hour. Keep in mind about the resource of the well that the water in the well may run out. If the resource of the well is small and the water in the well often ends, then you do not need a large pump flow. Practice and calculations show that high flow rates are not economical from the point of view of hydraulics. For economical operation of a pump with a high flow rate, it is necessary to increase the pipe diameter so that there are no head losses in the pipes. The head losses take away additional electricity.

For a pump with a flow rate of up to 10 m3 / h, a pipe diameter of more than 32 mm is required. For pipes with a diameter of up to 32 mm, a pump with a flow rate of up to 4 m3 / h is suitable.

The graph shows that the higher the lift, the less water flow from the well goes. So pay attention to the water consumption, will it be sufficient for you?

About the pump:

The pump should be at a distance of 1-2 meters from the bottom.

If the water column is not small and reaches 20 meters, then the pump can not be lowered much and leave 3 meters from the bottom. It is also harmful to leave too deep at the bottom, the pump can silt up, and then you simply cannot pull it out. The main rule is, if you have lowered the pump, then you must use it! If you leave it for the whole winter, then in a deep position it can be clogged with water silt, clay and other sand.

For a more accurate calculation, you need to be able to make a hydraulic calculation, about this here: Hydraulics and heat engineering.

Borehole pump installation technologies.

It is better to use a water supply system in a well from a 32mm HDPE pipe, since it is cheaper and special reliability inside the well is not required.

American 1 Required in case of well workover. This collapsible joint is designed to disconnect the well pipe. In order to pull out the entire HDPE pipe together with the pump.

Borehole head It is designed to be put on the well pipe in order to: Eliminate the ingress of debris into the well pipe. And also for holding the pipe and cable. The cable is designed to hold the pump at a certain depth. It is better to use a cable made of stainless steel with a thickness of at least 4mm in diameter. Or insulated steel cable. Cable fasteners are also better made of stainless steel. A nylon thread 5mm thick is also allowed.

Check valve serves to prevent the reverse movement of water. That is, so that the pumped water does not return to the well again. Also note that there are pumps on the market with an integral check valve.

How to lower the pump into the well?

To do this, it is necessary to connect a non-return valve to the pump, then hook up the HDPE pipe 32. Next, hook up the cable through the special cable clamps. It will be more convenient to do this together. Put the lower part of the borehole head on the borehole pipe together with a sealing rubber. In the process of lowering the pump, after 1.5 meters, fix the electrical cable to the PND32 pipe with plastic clamps. Fix the electric cable with a margin so that it does not break when stretching the pipe. Plastic clamps are available at electrical stores.

Lower the pump to the bottom, it rests and then raise it to the required distance of 1-2 meters. Fix the position, cut off the excess pipe, push the pipe through the head, fix the cable and fix the borehole head.

And so after the pump is lowered into the well and the pipe is brought into the house, the next step will be the assembly of the automatic water supply system.

The most ideal and common scheme is:

Water supply scheme

Mud filter serves to prevent large crumbs from entering the system, of which there is very little! If your mud filter gets clogged quickly, you can remove the mud filter at your own risk. But keep in mind that the entrance to the accumulator looks down to prevent the accumulation of sand and dirt in it. And so, in principle, there is nothing wrong if the system works without a mud filter.

You can also put a flask with a cleaning cartridge for the place of the mud filter. That is, the diagram shows that the bulb is located after the relay, and you will move it forward beyond the place of the mud filter.

But if the bulb is connected to the accumulator, then such a scheme is considered less economical. Since water, passing through the cartridge in the flask, strongly resists the passage. Because of this, a loss of pressure occurs. And this means that the pump will pump a little less water per unit of time and work longer with the load, which leads to additional waste of energy for pumping water. There is a way out of this situation - it is to supply a large main flask with a good flow rate. Type

Or you can install two parallel flasks, for good (passage) flow.

With such a flask, you can make a circuit like this:

Flask with cleaning cartridge... Designed to filter water from dirt, sand, silt, clay, rust and other mechanical debris. Only a mechanical cleaning cartridge is placed there. Do not try to install all sorts of carbon blocks and powders from coal. There is no point in cleaning the water there! For drinking, ordinary household multistage water purification systems are suitable, which will be installed under the sink. More details here: Water purification.

A pressure gauge is needed in order to monitor the pressure in the system. Also, the pressure gauge makes it possible to adjust the water supply system, that is, to adjust the pressure switch. I will describe how to set up the pressure switch a little later.

This is what a pressure gauge looks like:

Pressure switch serves to turn on and off the power supply to the pump, closing or opening electrical contacts as needed. The measure of need is determined by the threshold of a certain pressure. There is an upper and lower pressure threshold. So here, the relay has two nuts that turn these same thresholds. Below will be detailed description settings.

This is what the pressure switch looks like:

Such a relay is the most common and hassle-free device, moreover, the cheapest and not whimsical to work with. Do not try to buy all sorts of expensive electronic counterparts - it is expensive and problematic to set up.

It is easy to check the electrical part with a tester. If you are on you with an electrician, then flattery should not be there.

And so, the principle there is quite simple: With a small pressure, the relay closes the contacts, with a high pressure, the relay opens the contacts. Thus, turning the pump on and off.

For those who do not know how to adjust the thresholds at the pressure switch, I will now explain.

This black box has a plastic screw that can be removed with a flat screwdriver. Further, this box is taken out. There is a spring mechanism behind this box. There are two springs, one small and the other large. The spring load is set by turning the tightening nut.

A large spring adjusts both thresholds at once and the lower pressure threshold and the upper pressure threshold. When the large spring is tightened, both thresholds rise. When weakening, the thresholds are lowered.

A small spring adjusts the difference between the low and high pressure threshold. Tightening the nut on a small spring will increase the difference between the lower and upper thresholds. However, both thresholds will increase in pressure. If we weaken, then the opposite situation occurs.

If you want to increase the lower pressure threshold, and leave the upper threshold in the same position, you should first loosen the small spring, and then tighten the large spring. Achieve the specified upper threshold at the desired pressure, and check the lower pressure threshold. If the lower pressure threshold has not reached the desired pressure, repeat the operation until the desired threshold is reached.

If you want to decrease the lower pressure threshold, then tighten the small spring, and the large one adjust the upper threshold.

As the lower threshold increases, the difference between the upper and lower thresholds decreases. So when the upper threshold decreases, the same situation occurs.

To determine the thresholds, it is necessary to make a water flow through the tap and leave this tap open and observe the pressure gauge. Minimum pressure on the pressure gauge will indicate the lower threshold of the pressure switch, and the maximum pressure will indicate the upper pressure threshold. Also, the closing and opening of the pressure switch contacts is accompanied by a characteristic click.

The pressure switch and the dry-running switch should be connected through special quintuples and rains:

Dry running relay serves to turn off the power to the pump if the water in the well runs out. In cases when the water in the well runs out, there is a sharp drop in pressure and the dry-running relay turns off and turns on already when a special button is pressed.

This is what a dry-running relay looks like:

The dry-running relay has a safety button that brings the relay to the closed position of the contacts.

By default, when there is no pressure in the system, the relay is in the open state, when the button is pressed, the relay closes the contact.

At the first start, hold the button until the pressure in the system reaches a certain pressure threshold. When the pressure threshold is reached (in the range from 1-1.5 atmospheres), as a rule, the relay is in constant contact closure.

To reduce the pressure threshold, it is necessary to loosen the spring nut. When increasing, tighten accordingly. This threshold must always be below the lower pressure threshold of the pressure switch. But within reasonable limits, it should not be too close, since at a high flow rate, the dry-running relay may work, and the system will stop working, since the relay will turn off the contacts.

But the relay threshold should not be lowered so much, and be within zero atmospheres. In this case, he simply does not turn off the pump in the absence of water in the well. It should be just below the lower pressure threshold of the pressure switch. This is about 0.2-0.3 atmospheres from the lower pressure threshold of the pressure switch. Or be close to the pressure of the accumulator, but do not exceed it!

I came across such a case when the automation itself was in the basement, and the water draw-off point was 6 meters higher from the pressure switch. So here, the pressure threshold of the dry-running switch should not be less height head of the tapping point. For example: The height of the tapping point is 6 meters, and the threshold of the dry-running switch should always be higher than about 10 meters, but not exceed the pressure in the accumulator. The pressure switch threshold should be as high as possible and not exceed the pressure in the accumulator. Below will be a detailed description of the system setup.

ROM is a start-up protection device. Looks like an ordinary box containing a certain electrical circuit... It is usually sold with a pump. And if it is not there, then it is not there and the power goes through 3 wires (Phase, zero and ground).

Pressure reducer serves to set the maximum pressure at the outlet to the water consumption. Thus, it cannot give the set pressure at the outlet. That is, it is a kind of pressure stabilizer that does not give a visible pressure change effect. That is, the system has pressure thresholds, then it is more, then it is less, and this is reflected at the outlet from the tap. Below we will look at how to set up pressure stabilization in an automatic water supply system.

This is what a pressure reducer looks like:

Keep in mind that pressure reducers have parameters that you can find out about in the passport. They are classified according to thread size and flow rate accordingly. On automation, it is better to install a pressure reducer of at least one inch (1). Also, such gearboxes must be equipped with an outlet connection (1/4) for connecting a pressure gauge that will indicate the outlet pressure. It is very convenient when you need to adjust the outlet pressure. Each reducer has a manual pressure regulator, usually in the range from 1-6 atmospheres.

Hydroaccumulator performs one main function, it is the accumulation of a certain amount of water at a certain pressure. It also maintains a constant pressure in the system. That is, as soon as the tap was turned on, water immediately poured out. But the pump does not turn on immediately. The larger the volume of the accumulator, the less often the pump turns on and off, thereby the pressure switch is less likely to close and open. The accumulator, as it were, smooths out the pressure surges in the system. That is, the pressure in the system gradually drops and rises. Thus, water in the accumulator is either accumulated or consumed.

This is what a hydraulic accumulator looks like:

Each accumulator has a spool through which air is pumped for balanced pressure. This spool is the same as on car wheels, it is designed to pump air through this connection. The accumulator can be pumped up with an ordinary car pump and ordinary air. Modern pumps have a pressure gauge, on the pressure gauge 0.1 MPa = 1 atmosphere (1 Bar). Unambiguously, the pressure in the tank (accumulator) should be slightly below the lower pressure threshold set on the pressure switch. What pressure needs to be pumped will be described in detail below. Very often, air begins to bleed through the spools, which leads to unstable operation of the entire automatic water supply system. I recommend tightening the metal caps with a rubber gasket to prevent air from escaping.

The most economical in terms of cost and operation of the system is the volume of 80 liters. That is, it is not advisable to take below 80 liters, the pump will often turn on and off. And more than 80 liters is expensive to buy, besides, the membrane of hydroaccumulators sometimes breaks, and there are always membranes from 50-80 liters on the market. So the membranes can be changed. And for 100-200 liters of membrane, you still need to look ...

System Setup

To properly configure the system, you need to understand what the system pressure is. And to understand correctly, you need to know more units of measurement.

Pressure this concept comes from the science of hydraulics. In other words, you need to understand what hydrostatic pressure is.

We'll take a quick look at the concept of pressure. Most even think they know what pressure is. Let's say you have already understood a little what pressure is. In my own words from the bulldozer I will say: Pressure is a type of squeezing force inside an enclosed space in all directions. The force of squeezing in one atmosphere can lift water through a pipe to a height of 10 meters. Remember! One atmosphere equals 10 meters of water.

Or another example: A tower 30 meters high filled with water up to 30 meters high, that is, completely filled. At the bottom of the water tower, there will be a pressure of 3 atmospheres. Or 30 meters of pressure. So it is very important to understand pressure as a compressive force capable of squeezing upward to a certain height equal to the pressure of the water column. Hence, one atmosphere is equal to 10 meters of water column. Also, one atmosphere is approximately equal to 1 Bar and 0.1 MPa. Also, pressure is also called pressure. That is, this is the head of the water column. I use this expression a lot.

For me, pressure and pressure are synonymous!

Some rules for setting up the system:

The pressure in the accumulator must be set when there is no water in the membrane, that is, the pressure in the system is at zero. Pump up the pressure with a regular car pump. The pressure should be below the lower pressure threshold by 2-3 meters. That is, if the lower threshold is 15 meters (1.5Bar), then the pressure in the accumulator should be 12-13 meters (1.2Bar-1.3Bar). That is, 1.3Bar = 0.13MPa.

All you need to know about hydroaccumulators here: Hydroaccumulator. Principle of operation, purpose and setting.

If the pressure in the accumulator is higher than the lower threshold of the pressure switch, then you will get such a nuisance: The water seems to be running well, and then bam, the water abruptly disappeared and stopped running, after 1-2 seconds it ran again. If the pressure in the accumulator came out through a faulty spool, then you will get such a malfunction. The water from the tap runs in blows, that is, it runs for one second, and does not run for the next. And so on to infinity. Look at the monometer, and it jumps up and down. This symptom indicates the absence of air in the accumulator.

The threshold of the dry-running switch should be as high as possible, but not exceed the pressure in the accumulator. That is, what pressure you pumped into the accumulator, do not exceed this pressure for the dry running switch, it is better if it is 2-3 meters lower. Since in practice I found that the pressure in the accumulator often drops over time.

A very low threshold of the dry-running relay will not be able to protect the pump from dry running. An example is very difficult to explain. There is a case from practice when the dry running threshold was below the height of the water consumption point. In this case, in the absence of water, the pressure switch does not open the contact, and the pump continues to work. Since the water column of water (pipe to the point of draw-off) creates some pressure on the dry-running relay.

Also, in the absence of water in the well, a situation may arise when the pressure seems to be sufficient for dry running, but there is no water in the well, and in order to empty the pressure in the system, it is necessary to keep the valve in the open position, then the pressure will quickly drop. But if you already have a closed tap?

Such a situation with the pump turned on is not so terrible, since practice shows that for some time water stays in the well and an additional flow appears.

A large accumulator can aggravate the situation. A system with a large accumulator will take water from an empty well for a long time, which can lead to pump burnout.

There are pumps on the market that have water sensors in them. The pump will simply not turn on in the absence of water. There are also water sensors that are attached to the pump itself. But such sensors on the market are still hard to come by and can be expensive.

Now let's talk about the pressure reducer. As described above, it makes it possible to stabilize the outlet water pressure. This reducer has its own position and direction of movement of the water. That is, they are not put anyhow. You can look at this in your passport or search on the Internet. The reducer has a regulator that adjusts the maximum outlet pressure threshold.

For an imperceptible good head with a difference of half an atmosphere, enough to stabilize. That is, if at the outlet there is a pressure of 15 meters, and then 20 meters, then this is not noticeable. But if the pressure jumps from 15 - 30 meters, then you will notice how water runs from the tap, sometimes quickly, sometimes slowly.

Therefore, the threshold of the pressure reducer is set higher by 5 meters of water column from the threshold of the lower pressure of the relay. That is, if the lower pressure threshold is 15 meters (1.5Bar), then set the pressure reducer threshold to 20 meters (2Bar).

After the pressure reducer, wiring can be made to the water consumption points.

On account of that, if you do not know how to determine the diameter of the pipeline, then use the hydraulic calculations from the section Hydraulics and heat engineering.

It will be useful to see the photo:

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