What materials for the deoxidation of acidic soils are. How to deoxide the soil in the garden

Acidness is the ability of the soil to apply the properties of the acidic acids. Each gardener is found with this term, when working in a country area or a separate agricultural sector. Control of this soil properties is required, as it directly affects the vital activity of plants. To achieve higher results in horticulture, it is necessary to carefully study a number of land properties.

The benefits of the deoxidation of the soil

The deoxidation of the soil affects the germination and yield of different vegetation cultures. In fact, this process is the creation of favorable conditions for growing garden and other types of cultures. Observation of this property and its adjustment increases frost resistance of plants, increases the speed of the activity of the necessary microorganisms affecting the development of cultures, increases the amount of rolling nitrogen, creates favorable conditions for certain plants, since the perception of each plant to the soil is different.

The need to increase (reduce) acidity before planting depends on a number of inspections. For gardening crops Need low acidity, After all, microorganisms prevailing in acidic soil do not allow them to develop them, and for certain types of colors there is not enough such a state, and often the Earth needs additional fertilizer.

Decking is not carried out so often, as it seems at first glance. The minimum period is 1 time in 3 years, but the time of use of deoxidizers depends on their species and test results.

Influence on plants

This characteristic of the soil, as acidity, has an effect on the ability of solubility, assimilation and production of the necessary substances of plants.

If an increase in acidity occurs, the root growth occurs, the conditions for plant disease occur due to the lack of nutrients, and this helps to reduce yield or flowering.

In an acidic environment, favorable conditions for development are reduced to the minimum level or completely disappear, while the receipt of useful minerals ceases, and the plant dies.

After conducting long experiments, the best acidity spacing interval was revealed - pH \u003d 6.0-7.0.

Determination of the level of acidity

The determination of an acidic medium is not a time-consuming process and is not so diverse, so it will not be misleading novice gardeners. Despite the frequency of measures to deoxine soil, it is better to carry out an acid test of 2 times a year (at the beginning of the fall and early spring).

Methods for determining the level of soil acidity:

Methods of deoxidation

There are several methods for reducing the level of sourness of the soil, such as:

  1. Loving. The most popular and effective way. The idea is to add limestone (fine grinding) is recommended in the soil. Limestone increases the development of beneficial microorganisms that contribute to a decrease in weed germination. This process is carried out every few years. More frequent use will lead to the oversaturation of the soil.
  2. Application of dolomite (lime) flour. The soil becomes less harmful. The material is much more expensive than limestone, but the application is allowed once every 3 years. The effect of flour is favorable not for all types of plants.
  3. . The use of this helper is the tradition of gardening. The action is long, but the result is obvious. Wood ash can be replaced by such materials as Mergel, chalk rugs, alabaster, shells from eggs, cement, plaster (used).

Period of procedures

The period of use of the deoxidation of the soil depends on the method used and the goal pursued. There are many features of deoxidizers at the time of the year.

In the fall, the deoxidation process is to use wood ash. Since in winter there is no vegetation of plants, then the long-term ash does not damage the soil, the more it is not recommended to connect the deoxidizer (ash or replaceable representative) with fertilizers. Autumn deoxidation creates an alkaline environment, which affects the neutrality of acidity.

In the spring, the liming or use of dolomite flour is applied. The main task of the material for deoxidation is saturation of plant organisms necessary elements nutritioni, as well as they are difficult from the ground, which increases the duration of their impact. The deoxidation of the soil in the spring is also made with the help of chalk. In winter, such a procedure should not be carried out, otherwise it will be washed out of the soil with running water.

We must not forget about the types of soil, for example, sandy and sandy, luggy and clay. Doses used for each variety differ. To the first one recommended a dose of 3 to 6 kg, and for the second - from 6 to 10 kg per 1 weave, but the higher the level of acidity, the greater the dosing.

Plants in an acidic environment

Variety of vegetation preferring soil with increased acidity, not so great. Especially love the acidity of plants such as paint, fern, lupins, rhododendrons, heers, hydrangea. All representatives are mainly decorative plants. However, heavily acidified land contributes to yields and other plants:

  • currant;
  • honeysuckle;
  • carrot;
  • beet;
  • cabbage;
  • garlic;

Soil Acid Table by types of garden crops

Soil acidity is a big piece of knowledge about nature. The study of this characteristic is necessary, since the bulk of the horticultural processes depends on this parameter. If you need large crops and good growing of plants, you need a thorough study of acidity, methods of deoxidation and periods of use of deoxidizers.

From letters to the editor:
I am a novice gardener. I noticed that some cultures are growing on my beds difficult, for example, it is not possible to get a good crop of coarse. Friends who showed our garden and complained about failures, suggested that, apparently, on our site an acidic soil. What does acidic soil mean? How to reduce this acidity?

Of course, if you have financial capabilities, you can contact the agrochemical laboratory and order the analysis of the soil.

Her staff will take samples from various parts of your site, and then you will get an accurate idea of \u200b\u200bthe acidity of the soil on it.

This is a very important indicator. The fact is that many plants can normally develop only at a certain level of acidity. This level is determined by the pH indicator.



Taking into account its soils are divided into three types:

  • weakly acidic soil - the pH value begins with PH7 and above;
  • neutral soil - PH7;
  • sour soil is lower than PH7, a truly acidic soil is significantly lower than this indicator, for example, PH4.

At the same time, most plants, especially vegetable, grow best with a neutral or weakness of the soil reaction. For example, a swamp, on the crop of which you complain, prefers just a neutral soil.


And even by appearance This plant can be determined that he does not like this soil. When on the soils favorable for her, then she has a juicy green leaves, and the cutters are bright red. At the same time, it develops well, forms a standard or even larger root roof.

If the soil is in the weakness area, then on the leaves you can see the red bodies. With acidic, unloved swallow soil, her leaves are smaller and blushing. Saw such foliage - immediately take necessary measuresotherwise the crop she will not give you.

Soil acidity can be determined by another one natural way. The fact is that wild-growing plants also have their own preferences. If your horse sorrel, moss, wild mint are growing at your site or next to it, it is a sign of sour soil.

If the plot is growing well, drinking, rawnik, it means that the soil you have neutral or weakly acidic.

There are the same preferences cultural plants. For example, the following vegetable crops grow well on the weakly acidic soils:, potatoes, radish, peas. Love such soil as well, chrysanthemums.

Neutral soils prefer the already mentioned swallow, as well as onions, cabbage, garlic.

More acidic soils are preferred by such popular cultures like tomatoes, carrots, pumpkin, sorrel, parsley. But there are record holders among acidic soil lovers. This, for example, garden blueberry or beautiful decorative plant rhododendron. It is necessary to try to create the soil you need. And the reason for many beginner gardeners does not want to grow these two cultures, just lies in the fact that they did not create a sufficiently acidic soil. True, such a soil is usually loose, since it consists of peat and coniferous puff.

There are on sale in horticultural stores Special lacmus strips indicators. To determine the acidity of the soil, they take samples from different parts of the site - the handful of land in a marlay, which is lowered into a glass with distilled water, insist for some time (according to the instructions), and then it is lowered in a lactium paper. It is painted in this or that color. According to the color scale attached to the set, the color of this paper is compared and the soil acidity is determined.

You can use the latest achievement of science - special device acidomomer. The lower pointed part of it is inserted into the soil, and after a couple of minutes, the readings of the pH level of your soil will be affected on the scale with an accuracy of tenths. It seems that in all horticulture you need to have such a device. If you buy it to be exploited, it will not be at all overlaid, and the benefits will be for all members of the partnership, as they will be able to determine the acidity of their soil and will know what to do to get a good harvest.

And what needs to be done if the device showed that you have a high soil acidity? It is necessary to deal with this phenomenon, as the acidic soil is less fertile than, for example, neutral, and many vegetables and fruits grow on it badly, plants are depressing and sick. The roots are branched on them badly, the yield decreases.

Therefore, if after applying one or another method of determining the acidity of the soil, it turned out that they are sour, then they need them risk. To neutralize such soils, you can use several funds. The most ancient way, it was used by our distant ancestors - it. True, they did not collect her. They used the so-called gravy-fire agriculture, which was based on the burning of the forest, after which cultural plants were planted at this place.

The ancestors, of course, did not know the soil acidity. They just freed some territory from the forest and knew that after the fire there would be good to give birth to rye, oats, cabbage or turnip. The ash from the burnt numerous trees and shrubs reduced the acidity of forest soils, and, in addition, it is known, it is a good fertilizer, which contains more than thirty elements that feed plants. For example, in ashes there are potassium, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, iron, silicon, sulfur and others. There is only nitrogen in it. When this plot of land was exhausted, our ancestors were freed by a new fire for sowing, and the forest gradually revived on the old one.

Of course, collecting such a number of ash, which was formed as a result of burning forest, now it will not work, but if you constantly live in the country and use for heating firewood, then you can collect a few dry ash bags. Or you can build a small stove on the site, in which to burn all the dry branches from the garden and the nearest forest. Then, using the resulting ash, you can deoxide a piece of garden or garden.

According to experts, if the soil is very sour, then it is necessary to make about 700 g of ash on square meter. But if you make it in the soil and less than this norm, but regularly, it is hardly with an acid. Most likely it will be neutral. If there is quite a bit of ash, try to make it on that bedtime, where you are sitting in the beet seeds, then you will definitely with harvest, if, of course, ensure good care.



This is an effective, but long-time method of improving the soil, but not everyone can stock ash. Therefore, more often use other ways. Sour soils are now most often corrected in the soil of lime or other lime materials . Unlike ash, they are sold in stores for gardeners. Agronomas are recommended to correct the sylnic acid soil to make up to 50 kilograms of lime for one weaving of the garden.

At acidic soils, up to 40 kilograms will be required, on weakly acids - at least 30 kilograms per hundred. It makes it in the fall, scattering a smooth layer on the surface of the soil in front of the portion of the plot. It is necessary to try to stir lime with soil with the soil, then the effect of its introduction will appear faster. It is impossible to allow uneven application, since in overdose it can lead to the burns of plants.

Having manufactured in this way its site, you will provide the soil with a neutral reaction for almost ten years, and then it will be necessary to repeat the lime.

If you have fresh manure, it is impossible to be made in the fall under the Packet along with Lime. From their interaction from manure, a significant amount of nitrogen will be lost.

In addition to lime in horticultural stores, other limestones can be found. Most often it happens the Dolomitic flour. It is not as effective as lime, but, it means you need to make it more. Here are the rules that are indicated in the passport of this lime fertilizer:

  • sour soils (pH less than 4.5): 500-600 g per 1m² or (5-6 t / ha);
  • medium (pH 4.5-5.2): 450-500 g per 1m² or (4.5-6 t / ha);
  • weakly acidic (pH 5.2-5,6): 350-450 g per 1m² or (3.5-4.5 t / ha).

On the pulmonary soils, the dose is reduced by 1.5 times, and on heavy clay - increase by 10-15%. For a more effective effect of dolomite flour, with its introduction, it is necessary to achieve a uniform distribution of limestone flour throughout the area of \u200b\u200bthe site. When complete dose, the lime effect is preserved for 8-10 years. The effectiveness of dolomite flour increases with the simultaneous introduction of borogne and copper microfertili (boric acid and copper sulphate).

Dolomite flour has another plus: it not only deoxides the soil, but also enriches it with calcium, magnesium and other useful trace elements.

Specialists are also recommended to reduce the acidity of the soil to heated on the harvesters released after harvesting: rye, whites mustard, Faceliya, Oats, and then rinse from the green mass and close in the soil. If it becomes good tradition, then you will forget about acidic soil.

So, with one of the methods described in the post "", you tested the soil on your garden. And they came to the conclusion that in one place or on the whole garden she needs to be deoxidated.

There are many ways to lower the pH of the soil, so let's start with the most common and simple one.

Method number 1 Pushonka (harated lime)

Before using the fluffs, it should certainly be tested with water. Doses of application vary depending on the sharpness of the problem: 50-75 kilograms per weave are added to a very acidic soil, in the middle-indent - 40-45 kilograms, 25-35 kilograms.

Method No. 2 Limestone (Dolomitic) Flour

When purchasing this, it is necessary to look at the level of its grinding. The universal rule - the smaller the flour particles, the faster it will give the necessary deoxidation effect.

For first-class limestone flour, humidity not exceeding 1.5% is characterized, and the diameter of 70% of grains should be less than 25 fractions of the millimeter.

Method This method is inferior to the previous method at the speed of acidity change, but it is absolutely environmentally friendly and harmless, and also enriches the soil by magnesium, calcium and other useful trace elements.

The norm is 500-600 grams per meter square for the strong earth, 450-500 grams - for the average and 350-450 grams - for weakly acid.

Method No. 3 of the Gaza

This lime, which is getting from the bottom of the dried ancient lakes. It is crushed and added to the ground. This tool is more efficient than the dolomite flour.

Method No. 4 Preparations for the deoxidation of the soil containing calcium

One of the methods of normalizing the pH level of soil is calculating substances into it.

These include:

  • ground chalk. Be sure to note that the diameter of the particles of the grinding chalk should not exceed one millimeters (the percentage of larger grains should not be greater than 10). The norms are: with a high pH - 300 grams per meter square, with an average pH - 200 grams, and weak - 100 grams.
  • peat. It has a smaller number of active ingredients in its composition, so the dose of its introduction should be increased by 3-4 times.
  • warm ash. Wonderful natural mineral fertilizer, as well as soil deoxidizer. The rate of application is 100-200 grams per meter square.

Method No. 5 Complex Decillary Preparations

On the shelves of stores for Dachniks, you can now find a lot of good tools for the normalization of soil acidity, which will simultaneously enable its composition.

These include such useful components, such as calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, boron, cobalt, zinc, copper, manganese, molybdenum, and the like.

The advantage of such drugs is that there is no particular sense to doubt their chemical clean or check the fineness of the grinding.

All materials and preparations described above close in a garden soil in winter or spring to a depth of 20 centimeters. After that, the soil is advisable to pour. The soil reaction will change to a neutral approximately after 2-3 years.

In my opinion, the best waywhich allows you to forget about such a problem as is the regular use of the Siderators. Here you do not need to worry about dosages, because it is known that excessive lime and calcium are destructive for plants and soil microorganisms, as well as clog underground water. If you apply competent crop rotation (how to organize it the best way, you can read in a series of articles -, and), then there is no special occasion to worry about the acidification of the garden soil.

Siderate plants that are used as deoxidizers: Vika, Rye, Lupine, Oats, legumes.

All the above methods can be combined with each other. For example, a deoxidizer (any - chalk, ash, lime) and manure (horse, cow) are made under shallow people. To pour everything with water with an uh preparation (ratio of 1: 100, irrigation rate - 3-5 liters per square meter). Already in two to three weeks, it will be possible to sing this place with a seer (only if the seite beans, do not add null to them).

And if you want to save on the purchase of um preparations, then be sure to study the way they are homemade cookingdescribed.

I propose to also watch a video overview of the main ways to deoxine soil.

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Many gardeners face the problem of soil acidity. In excessive acidic soil there are no conditions for the life of trace elements and important bacteria. The trouble is that with high acidity and abundant fertilizer of the Earth, the plants still do not get the necessary substances for feeding and good harvest.

How to analyze the acidity of the soil

Even if before the start of landing of the first plants, the land plot to acidity showed a neutral pH, then later elevated level Acidness is able to surprise the dacket. It pleases that now there is no need to resort to specialists and complex technologies for analysis. there is simple ways Studying the acidity of the site alone.

  1. Sort Analysis using Lacmus paper. Having gathered from different places of the site at half a spoon of the Earth, you need to lower each trial material in a jar with clean water in proportions 1 to 1. Five minutes later, each container for 1 second you need to omit a litmus paper pre-acquired in a pharmacy. Checking with the instructions, you can understand which one that has changed the piece of paper.
  2. Study of acidity level of vinegar. It is necessary to place the glass on any dark coating, pouring onto it on a spoonful of the Earth from different places of the garden. Waving every tillage of a 9% acetic essence, it is necessary to follow the appearance of foam. In the case of strong foaming - there is no acid in the ground, a little foam is a good indicator, and with the absolute absence of the reaction - the ground is sour.
  3. Observation of the colorful leaves beet. If you plant a beet culture in different parts of the cottage, then with the appearance of large leaves you can learn the acidity of the Earth on which the beet grows. If the entire leaf of the plant has a red filling - the acidity is high, on the sheet there are red veins - a weak acid rate, green color Sheet is a permissible pH.

Methods of deoxidation of soil

Independent deoxidation of the soil does not represent a special difficulty, the benefit of all ingredients can be taken in the "grace", on the market or make directly on the site. Showing special caution, and carefully studying the ways, you can proceed to the procedure.

Application of lime

Lime deoxidation gives effective resultbut along with this for a long time deprives plants the opportunity to assimilate phosphorus. Having considered the aggressive nature of lime, it is best to apply it in the fall, leaving the time to spring sowing on the normalization of chemical processes in the soil.

Haired lime is added in this way:

  • especially acidic land - half kg per 1 sq.m.
  • middle Acid - 300 g per 1 sq. M.
  • small acid - 200 g per 1 sq. M.

Dolomite for deoxidation

Dolomitka can be sprayed with a section of the junction and autumn, as it behaves quite neutral to plants, along with this saturating the soil of magnesium.

The proportions of dolomite flour are as follows:

  • sour soil - half kg per 1 sq. M
  • average acid - 400 g per 1 sq. M.
  • low acid - 300 g per 1 square. M.

Processing of the area of \u200b\u200bashla

Applying ash, the garden not only risks the soil, but also fertures its potassium, necessary phosphorus and useful magnesium.

True, the consumption of ash is great:

  • wood ash - more than one and a half kg per 1 square meter. M.
  • the ash from weeds - 2.5 kg per sq.m

Gypsum and Cretaceous Tillage

Gypsum, as well as chalk can be called the controller of the acidity of the Earth. After entering these drugs into the ground, they begin their work, interacting not with water, but with acid. Normalizing the pH of the soil, these deoxidizers remain in it in a passive position until the acidity rises again. As a result, these substances entered into the ground are regulated for a long time and lowered acidity.

The increased acidity of the soil is badly affected by yields - after all, useful microorganisms and bacteria cannot live in such soil, so necessary plants. But for me it is not a problem, because I know how to deoxine the soil in the garden, and tell you how to determine the acidity of the soil. I want to share with you the most effective wayswhich I tried more than once. Baister!

The increased acidity of the soil is a problem that is not worthless. Such a substrate is an excellent medium for breeding pathogenic microorganisms, viruses. In it perfectly feels like a weary grass, moss.

But cultural landings love the weakly acidic, neutral soil. In the soil with a reduced pH, their development slows down, and the landing themselves weaken, become susceptible to pests, infections.

Decking the soil is the only effective way to bring the pH to a permissible mark. The frequency of the procedure depends on the characteristics of the substrate:

  1. Suglinka: after 7 years.
  2. Sand soils: once every 5 years.
  3. Peat substrates: after 3 years.

The amount of funds made depends on the percentage of humus in the soil. What he is higher, the more funds need to be expensive.

Do the soil always deoxide

If you find that the pH of the substrate is lowered in your garden, do not strive to neutralize its entire area. Check if there are landings that love moderately peeled soil:

  1. Berries: Lingonberry, Strawberries, Cranberries, Blueberries.
  2. Vegetable cultures: turnip, potatoes, carrots, sorrel, radish, pumpkin, tomatoes.
  3. Decorative plants: Azalea, fern, hydrangea, chicory, coniferous.

But fruit shrubs, trees in such an environment are developing, fruiting very poorly - they need a neutral soil.

How to determine the acidity of the soil

When you just bought pricework, I advise you to immediately determine the acidity of the substrate before landing for the first plants. If the initial pH of the soil was neutral, this does not mean that there will be no negative changes in the future. Therefore, check on the same periodically. Imagine average values:

  1. The maximum peeled soil: 3.8-4.
  2. Sylno acid: 4.1-4.5.
  3. Midhid: 4.6-5.
  4. Weakness: 5.1-5.5.
  5. Neutral: 5.6-6.9.

It is required to carry out a deoxidation when the pH is less than 5.5.

I will share with simple ways to check for acidification:

  1. Lacmus paper, distilled water, several samples of the substrate from different zones of the garden. You can buy in a pharmacy you need. Each handful of land, wrap in matter, lower in a glass with distilled water. For each portion of the soil - its container. After 5 minutes, lower the cutting paper on the cutting paper for 1-2 seconds. According to her color, you can judge the characteristic of the soil: from red to orange - sour, from yellow to the green - neutral, from the blue to dark blue - alkaline.
  2. Broth of currant and cherry leaves, soil samples from several sections of the garden. It will take several leaves - fill them with steep boiling water. Wait until the decoction cools, place a handful of soil in it. If the fluid accepts the reddish color - the soil is scyed. If bluish, purple - neutral, alkaline soil.
  3. Beet. The plant serves "Lacmus paper": on a populated earth - red leaves, on weakly acid - reddish streaks, on neutral - juicy green tops, red stiffs.
  4. Vinegar (9%), soil samples from different zones of the garden. Put on dark matter, paper, glass. Carefully pour the sample of the soil carefully, drop a bit of vinegar. Track the reaction: Abundant foam speaks about an alkaline substrate, a small hiss - about neutral, no reaction - about acidified soil.
  5. pH meter. The most clear data is on this instrument. "Indicators" will be weeds on your site. Horse sorrel, plantain, horsetail, dandelions prefer precipitated soil.
PH-meter Acidness Definition Device

How and how to deoxide the soil in the garden

In garden centers you can easily find a special drug. With them, everything is simple - it is enough to apply the tool according to the instructions. I will share with you folk efficient ways of deoxidation.

I spend the procedure itself in several stages:

  1. Before the beginning of the cultivation of the site, I made a peak rate of funds - hated lime, dolomite flour, gypsum by deep empty of the Earth. Such control treatments of the entire garden I repeat once every 5-7 years.
  2. Every year I spend the deoxidation of areas with increased acidity, on which plants are difficult to develop. I reduce the dosage of funds, I give drugs with a shallow, light rescope.
  3. Weakly acidic soils thoroughly cultivated every 5-8 years, strongly acidified - every 4 years.

Pay attention to the plan of your site. If you follow the crop rotation, change the location of the goer every year, the entire site will have to deoxine. When traditionally planted on the same site the same, related crops, we require processing only individual zones of the garden - where plants suffering from low pH will be planned.

  1. Plots for fruit trees are treated for 2 years before the estimated landing. Ridges for annual plants are deasured from autumn.
  2. The drug is evenly scattered over the surface of the Earth. You can use a sieve, scoop, sieve.
  3. The processed area will jump about the bayonet shovel.

The even more than the substance fall into the substrate, the more efficient their use.

Loving

The most famous means of gardeners for deoxidation is lime. You can use the following:

  • haired lime (fluff);
  • key lime (lime tuff);
  • carbonate lime (ground);
  • cement dust;
  • lake Lime (Gaja).

The scheme of action of all listed funds is similar, but the dosage, the deadlines are vary. Warning that any lime is an aggressive substance. After his landing, some time cannot be absorbed from the substrate phosphorus. Therefore, I spend such a deoxidation of the garden always under the autumn people when the harvest is assembled. To spring chemical composition The soil comes to normal.

Needle lime before processing must be filled with water. Dosages have been introduced for Haashed:

  1. Weakness soil: 200 g per 1 m2.
  2. Midhid: 300 g per 1 m2.

Carbon dioxide lime is entered in other proportions for different types Substrate. For heavy and medium-heavy driving:

  1. Weakness soil: 300-400 g per 1 m2.
  2. Average: 450-500 g per 1 m2.
  3. Strongly acidified: 550-600 g per 1 m2.

For light loam and samp lands:

  1. Weak soil: 200 g per 1 m2.
  2. Midhield: 250-300 g per 1 m2.
  3. Strongly acidified: 350-400 g per 1 m2.

These norms will be allowed to take the soil by 15-20 cm. If you need a deeper processing, it is necessary to increase the dosage. In the case when the lime is made more than 500 g per 1 m2 of land, the next deoxidation produce only after 3 years.

Dolomitic flour

So called chopped into the crumb, Dolomite powder is one of the rocks. You can buy flour in horticultural centers, shopping stores. I advise you to pay attention to the size of fractions (individual grains) - what they are less effective drug. I buy flour, whose humidity does not exceed 13%, and the diameter of most of the sands (you can read about it on a pack) - 0.25 mm.

The remedy is not so aggressive as lime, so it can be made under the steamer and spring, and in the fall. Above its safety and from an ecological point of view. In addition to the deoxidation of the substrate "Dolomite" is useful as follows:

  • contains magnesium, calcium, trace elements;
  • serves as a breakdler (help with heavy soils - the chemical composition and structure of the substrate is improved).

The average proportions here are as follows:

  1. Weakness soil: 300-400 g per 1 m2.
  2. Medium industrial: 400 g per 1 m2.
  3. Strongly acidified: 500 g per 1 m2.

Dolomite flour is used before making mineral fertilizer - She contributes to their best assimilation. Spring deoxidation produces 15 days before crop sitting.

Dolomit additionally disinfects the soil from the pathogens of fungal diseases. I try to use it for a potato field, greenhouses is a means of colorado beetle And Medveda. In the interaction of flour destroys their chitinous shells, why the pests die.

Dolomitic flour - excellent fertilizer For fruit and berry crops. The rate of application: 0.5-1 kg - for shrub, 2 kg - for wood.

Wood ash

Chimney ash - Universal assistant: fertilizer, remedy for pests, deoxidizer. However, agronomists are not advised to stop only on it, especially when preparing a place for the pasta, in need of the increased content of calcium in the soil. The composition of ash can vary depending on the part of the burned tree, the place of its growth, the age of the plant, the wood breed.

The content of calcium salts in the medium can reach 60%, and 50%, and 30%. Based on this, the issues of application are changing: from 1 to 1.5 kg per 1 m2. The most effective - ash from birch. It will additionally enrich the soil of potassium, phosphorus. If the ash is obtained left weed herb, Topmen, the calcium percentage in it is minimal. The rate of application increases to 2-2.5 kg per m2.

Basically, I use ash as mineral fertilizer. Since I do not have oven heating, it is difficult to collect the desired volume of the drug for a full deoxidation of the soil. But for this purpose, the ash can still be used in two cases:

  1. As an additional component of a potent means - lime, plaster, dolomite flour.
  2. The next year after a deep, thorough limestone of the soil.

For re-decking 200 g of ashes, 1 liter of water is bred. Liquid enough for processing 1 m2 of land. If the ash is not wood, but peat, then 250-300 g of ash per 1 liter of water is required.

Decking chalk

According to the graphics of making chalk, it is similar to lime - it is made in the soil under the autumn people. Before use, be sure to grind it, and when the site is cultivated thoroughly, mix with the ground. Store chalk only in a dry place - with high humidity it is joined, it is knocked into solid lumps. The highest efficiency - with the size of grains no more than 1 mm. If they are greater, the processing will slow down.

Exemplary dosages according to the characteristics of the substrate:

  1. Weakness soil: 200-300 g per 1 m2.
  2. Medium industrial: 400 g per 1 m2.
  3. Strongly acidified: 500-700 g per 1 m2.

I advise you to pay attention to the close "relative" chalk - gypsum. Its advantage is obvious: the gypsum when introducing into the soil can dissolve not water, but only acid. Therefore, immediately after the people, it comes to the reaction with it: the pH of the soil is reduced, and the plaster itself remains in passive state, not harming landings, useful soil bacteria. But there is a pH of the substrate to change again, he "comes to life" and enters the reaction with acid.

Approximate gypsum dosages are as follows:

  1. Weakness soil: 100-200 g per 1 m2.
  2. Midhield: 300 g per 1 m2.
  3. Strongly acidified: 400 g per 1 m2.

The impact of chalk, soft gypsum, why the short-lived - funds need to be made every spring. Try to alternate drugs with other methods of deoxidation - they accumulate in the substrate, contributing to salinization.

Plants Siderats

Supporters of organic agriculture to count the norms, to conduct every season of lime. The same effect will help to achieve landing Siderates. Moreover, with a competent crop rotation, they are often comparable to potent lime.

You can use oats, wheat, buckwheat, rape, mustard, oilseed radish, lupine, rye, alfalfa, dononnik. I land Facelius - the plant not only reduces the pH, but also is a honey. Insect pollinators flew on the whole summer season.

To the crop can be proceeding in early spring - They are not afraid of frosts, are not demanding to watering, soil. The depth of embelling is 1.5-2 cm. For uniform sowing, mix the seeds with sand.

To rip the plot, the Siderate should grow on it all summer. Under the autumn plants are mounted, and then dripped with the soil along with the tops. If the pH is too low, it makes sense to sow the same plot for the next season.

What difficulties arise when the soil is decking

If you can not apply the listed funds, or they are not effective enough, I advise you to pay attention to special compounds for limeting in garden centers. Choose complex drugs that simultaneously deoxide and fertilize. Their composition should be:

  • magnesium;
  • calcium;
  • phosphorus;
  • zinc;
  • manganese;
  • copper.

Make sure that the fractions of the drug are small, and on its packaging there is a mark of ecology, safety of application. Basically, such funds are used under the autumn people. Like folk, they are evenly distributed over the surface of the Earth, and then dripping the plot on the bayonet shovels. After that, it is necessary to pour a bed. The effect of the use of the means is within 2 years.

With high pH, \u200b\u200bI advise you to carry out comprehensive processing:

  1. In the spring, make a manure, "Dolomitka", spend a shallow resistance.
  2. Treat the Baikal biological preparation site (contains soil bacteria).
  3. After 2-3 weeks, put Siderats.

In order not to harm the deoxidation of the soil, landing, I recommend the following:

  1. Observe the time and dosage.
  2. Carefully make lime: its excess makes valuable elements (manganese, boron, potassium, iron) are difficult to digest on the root system.
  3. Try to deoxide the soil in the fall, and make fertilizers in the spring.
  4. After carrying out deep lime, give up the introduction of mineral fertilizers for two years. Replace them with an organic or spend extra-greened feeding.

Before limestay the soil in the garden, be sure to decide on the substrate pH. Do not forget about plants that like moderately acidic soil. Contact potent drugs only at high acidity, try to replace them with sites. After all, the oversaturation of the soil calcium is no less harmful than its disadvantage.

How to find out the soil acidity: video

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