The best way to connect heating radiators. Diagonal connection of a heating radiator: diagram, pros and cons

Correct connection heating radiators with a two-pipe system - a guarantee of comfort in the house. By itself, this system allows heat to be distributed across multiple rooms. But you need radiators to efficiently heat your house or apartment!

In order for the two-pipe system to work well and provide uniform heating of the entire building, it is necessary to correctly connect and. The type of connection is also important, and there are several of them. In this post, we will talk about their advantages, disadvantages and features.

Two-pipe system diagram

The basis of a two-pipe heating system is two pipes. Through one, heated water enters the batteries, through the other cooled water is discharged from them. Heating is done by any heat source - boiler, boiler.

If the connection of heating radiators with a one-pipe heating system is serial and the water cools down as the batteries pass, then with a two-pipe system it is parallel and the heating is more uniform.

The difference between a two-pipe heating system and a one-pipe heating system is that it heats all radiators almost evenly. Small heat losses are possible due to the distance from the heating device - the longer the water goes through the pipe, the more it cools.

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Efficient connection of heating radiators

There are four main schemes for connecting heating radiators with a two-pipe system:

• Lateral;
• Top;
• Lower;
• Diagonal.

Some radiators are designed for certain types of connection, but there are some that are considered universal.

Side connection

With this type of connection, water enters and exits the heating battery from the same side. At the same time, it passes more slowly through the sections that are farther from the connection points. Due to this, the temperature in this place is lower and the radiator heats up less efficiently.

Top connection

If you connect a conventional radiator in this way, it will be ineffective. Warm water will flow in the upper part and only warm it up.

There are radiators designed for top connection... They have a plug that redirects water to the lower part of the radiator and it circulates like in a diagonal. Such radiators warm up well over the entire area.

Bottom connection of heating radiators

If you connect a conventional radiator in this way, the main flow of water will pass at its bottom. Part of it, due to natural convection, will rise up and the radiator will warm up, but not completely.

From experts you can hear the opinion that a one-pipe heating system is a relic of the past, nevertheless, it still stands among effective ways heating of private and multi-storey buildings.

One has only to slightly modify the well-deserved classics, and all the advantages of a one-pipe connection will appear when installing heating systems: comfort, coziness in the house and the possibility of local repair heating system without turning off the heat supply.

And also - saving money when the power supply of the territory is cut off.

One-pipe system: connection highlights and real installation benefits

Initially, a one-pipe system for connecting heat supply was the only advantageous: heating radiators were connected according to physical parameters "Serial connection".

The choice was based on economical pricing:

• Costs cut in half on the purchase of conductors for the coolant in comparison with a two-pipe system.
• Savings have been achieved when buying footwear, fittings, taps.
• Radiators of all existing brands were suitable for this system: from cast iron classics to "advanced" bimetal.

Not without negative points: radiators, sequentially looped, heated unevenly, the last in the circuit did not correspond to the specified (expected) temperature parameters. This was until the time when experts discovered the bypass principle known as bypass.

Pros of bypass

It is sometimes difficult for a homeowner to make a decision on the recommendation of specialists when installing a one-pipe heating system to install a bypass. The principle is simple: a bypass pipe is included in the design (this is the bypass), which will save material resources, and allows for local repair of the radiator without shutting down the entire system. The latter is relevant for owners of private houses and for residents of typical high-rise buildings of the last century.

Photo 1. Radiator connected to the heating system. Arrows indicate the location of the bypass and ball valves.

For owners of extensive living quarters with a one-pipe heating system, it will be advisable connecting a "stroke"... It is a piece of pipe that is installed in the immediate vicinity of the radiator. Pipe diameter one position lower than the cross-section of the main pipeline... This is due to the fact that when the carrier is fed, water prefers to rush through the channels larger diameter... Thus, it becomes possible to start repairing leaking radiator assemblies painlessly for heating a house.

The gravity system does not provide a comfortable (and adjustable) temperature in living quarters, this is where a bypass is needed. Craftsmen mount a bypass pipe with a circulating pump and temperature sensors located in it. It doesn't matter if the power supply is interrupted - bypass will direct water flows according to the principle of "gravity" and in emergency mode. Bypass pipe brings savings to the homeowner up to 25% payments for electricity, alternating gravity and forced circulation of the coolant.

Attention! Install the circulation pump in the bypass pipe, adhering to the "curvilinear" rule: the more bends, the lower the thermal conductivity of the heating system.

The bypass is "surrounded" on both sides by ball valves to block the water supply to a specific radiator.

Correct installation of the structure without a bypass pipe

Such a scheme does not require a parallel pipe branch. based on welding or fastening using adapters and fittings.

The primitivism in installation and some cost savings will subsequently bring a lot of problems to the homeowner. The most costly item is shutting down the system in case of local leaks in the pipeline or radiator.

Tools

To organize heat supply, you do not need to purchase special sets of tools - plumbing fixtures and those keys that are available to home master. Add only specific tools to the home kit:

• special keys for connecting American women;
• tools for screwing adapters;
• torque wrenches for delicate parts.

Reference. Professionals advise not to purchase expensive accessories for attaching parts with a union nut. Copes with the task open-end (or adjustable) wrench with pliers. The first one holds, the other twists.

Diagrams and connection methods

With one pipe diagram connection of heat supply to housing several schemes for obtaining energy from a heat source are used.

• Diagonal connection is an effective method. The pipes alternate with the upper and lower connections at the border of one radiator: the heat input falls on the upper branch pipe, the output - at the bottom of the battery. Such a system has proven itself perfectly when connecting radiators. over 10 links, the batteries are warmed up evenly.

Photo 2. Connecting a heating radiator diagonally. The hot coolant is marked in red, the cold one - in blue.

• Bottom strapping, according to experts, less efficient in terms of thermal conductivity, but it is used in closed heating systems when pipes run horizontally from the boiler and are hidden under the floor.
• Vertical connection It is based on the installation of a riser pipe in the boiler area, the remaining elements of the heating structure are connected to it. The advantage of this method is the absence of air congestion during the gravity of water.
• Top routing(incoming and outgoing pipes are installed at the top from different sides) is used in radiators of a special design, where forward flow is excluded. The media goes down the first section and runs along the rest of the links.

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How to properly connect radiators

When installing the heating system, it is important to correctly install the radiators, fixing them on the wall under window openings... According to the norms, it is impossible that the distance from the floor and window to the battery was less than 10 centimeters... The gap from the wall is half the allowed.

To secure these elements use 3 brackets for each unit: two are attached at the top points, one at the bottom.

Level the surface of the battery vertically; horizontally, a slight decrease is allowed so that air does not accumulate in the upper part.

Achieve such a level that the radiator plugs directly fit the location of the pipes. Screw on each battery Mayevsky crane(to the upper point), mount the plug down. Install heat regulators if necessary.

With the help of adapters (futorok), transitions from right to left threads are provided from pipes of different diameters. For connecting batteries to the pipeline are sold sets with squeegees, adapters, couplings and valves. The kit is completed with gaskets that do not need additional waterproofing. Sometimes when threaded connection gaskets do not save pipes and adapters, then use linen soaked in drying oil.

Important! Start winding the adapters by cleaning the pipes and joints: the presence of paint is not allowed in the joints. Work with emery "to bare metal." Otherwise the paint will flake off over time and the joint will leak.

At self-assembly systems do not save on the installation of cranes- otherwise, minor repairs will have to be done when the system is turned off and the pipeline is cut.

Comfort, comfort and more comfort. This thought accompanies us all the time when it comes to living in a house. Agree - who doesn't want the house to be always cozy and comfortable? There are no such people. And now the second question - what does the quality of accommodation depend on? There are many criteria, but one we are primarily interested in is the warmth in the house. It is provided by a well-designed heating system, where the connection of radiators plays an important role.

• One-pipe.
• Two-pipe.

How do they differ from each other? The number of contours, and, accordingly, the volume of materials used.

One-pipe scheme

In fact, it is a ring of pipes, where the center is the heating boiler. This is the most simple circuit wiring, which is best used in one-story buildings, where a system with natural circulation of the coolant is used. Or in multi-storey buildings with forced circulation.

Let's face it - this scheme is not the best, although it is very economical in terms of the materials expended for its construction. But she has one big drawback - the inability to regulate the supply of heat. Installing some kind of control partings in such a scheme is problematic. Therefore, in houses where a single-pipe decoupling scheme is installed, the heat transfer rate is equal to the projected one. That is why it is so important to correctly calculate this indicator.

Attention! Single-pipe heating allows only series connection of radiators. That is, the coolant passes through all the radiators one after the other, giving off heat. And the further the device is located in the circuit, the less heat it gets.

Two-pipe scheme

In this scheme, there are two circuits - supply and return. Through the first circuit, the coolant enters the heating radiators (aluminum, bimetallic, cast iron or steel), and along the second it is diverted to the boiler. But surprisingly, the coolant is evenly distributed over all batteries, which is a huge advantage of this connection scheme.

An important point - with two-pipe connection it becomes possible to regulate the temperature in each individual radiator by opening or closing the passage to it. A conventional shut-off valve is installed here, which allows you to increase or decrease the volume of the coolant in each battery.

Place of installation

It would seem that the installation site of the heating radiator has long been determined. After all, its main function is heat transfer. But let's look more broadly at the task at hand. Installing radiators is a serious business. With their help, it is necessary to create certain temperature norms that will affect the optimal regime in the apartment. This means that they are best installed under windows, from where cold air enters, or near entrance doors... That is, cutting off the cold air zone is another of their tasks.

And again there is a "BUT". Just taking and installing a heating radiator under the window is half the battle. There are certain rules that need to be taken into account. The correct connection of the heating radiator depends largely on these standards.

What do they include?

• First, any batteries - aluminum, bimetallic, steel or cast iron - must be mounted horizontally. A slight deviation of 1 degree is acceptable, but it is better to set the fixtures exactly horizontally.
• Secondly, the distance from the radiator to the window sill should be within 10-15 cm.
• Almost the same distance should be from the floor to the battery.
• From the wall to the radiator, it should not exceed 5 cm.

It is these standards that determine the most correct and efficient heat transfer of heating devices. Therefore, take them as a guide to action.

Ways to connect heating radiators

Now you can move on to the main topic and consider directly the connection of heating radiators. There are three ways how to properly connect heating batteries.

Method number 1 - side connection

Side connection of radiators

The most common type of connection when it comes to the heating system in a city apartment. V apartment buildings a pipe junction is constructed vertically from apartment to apartment by floor. Therefore, the vertical supply and return circuits are called risers.

Batteries are connected to them from the side, hence the name. Most often, the connection is carried out according to the scheme:

1. Supply - to the upper branch pipe.
2. Return - to the bottom.

Although this is not so important, if the question concerns a scheme with forced circulation of the coolant. True, experts say that this scheme was not chosen in vain. If you swap the pipes on the batteries, then the efficiency and efficiency of the heater decreases by 7%. This is a significant indicator, so it will have to be taken into account when turning on radiators in the heating system of the house. There are no unimportant indicators or moments in the heating system at all. A small deviation from the norm can lead to quite serious losses in heat and fuel, and, accordingly, in money.

And one moment. If the number of sections in the RIFAR battery does not exceed 12 pieces, then the lateral connection to the heating system is optimal. If the number of sections is more, then a diagonal connection is used, which is also called cross.

Method number 2 - diagonal connection

Diagonal connection

Experts believe that the diagonal connection is ideal. For this, the heating circuits are connected as follows:

• Supply - to the upper branch pipe of the battery.
• Return - to the bottom, but on the opposite side of the device.

That is, both circuits are connected to each other through the radiator along its diagonal. Hence the name. The advantage of this connection is that the coolant inside the radiator is evenly distributed, due to which the heat is transferred over the entire area of ​​the device. It is in this way that significant fuel savings are achieved.

Method number 3 - bottom connection

This method of connecting RIFAR radiators to the heating system is extremely rare. There are many problems with the bottom connection, and especially this concerns the uniform distribution of the coolant over all radiators. This type is used in a one-pipe connection scheme, where radiators are installed in series, and the coolant moves along a chain from one to another.

Lower radiator connection

By the way, the "Leningradka" scheme is one of the most common when it comes to heating one-storey house... In fact, this is a looped pipe into which the radiators are embedded. It is quite simple to connect them - for this, pipes are diverted from the lower nozzles, which cut into the circuit itself. It turns out that the coolant, moving in a loop in a closed cycle, enters each radiator. But at the same time, the further the heater is located in the direction of hot water movement, the less heat it gets.

What to do? There are two solutions to this problem:

1. Increase the number of radiator sections located in rooms farthest from the boiler.
2. Install a circulation pump that will create a slight pressure inside the heating. It is this that will allow you to evenly distribute hot water throughout the premises.

By the way, the circulation pump immediately makes the system volatile. This has its downside. The thing is that power outages in many suburban settlements are commonplace. So the problem with the bottom connection remains. But in order for the movement of the coolant to be effective even when the pump is off, care must be taken to install a bypass.

Conclusion on the topic

So, you were able to make sure that connecting radiators (RIFAR and other types) is not an easy and very serious matter. It is believed that in city apartments the best option is a side connection. If it comes to private housing construction, then a diagonal scheme is best suited. There are too many problems with the bottom connection. In addition, practice and testing have shown that this option, with the wrong approach to the organization of the installation process, is characterized by too large heat losses - up to 40%.

Many homeowners are not happy with the heating efficiency of their apartment. This issue is especially acute during severe cold weather. Sometimes poor heating is associated with a worn out radiator. In this case, the heating structure is replaced with more efficient and powerful equipment. Today, ceramic radiators, bimetallic, etc. are on sale. But the most reliable and durable are cast-iron models. If the battery is in excellent condition, it is impractical to change it. In this case, you can add sections to the radiator. This article is devoted to how to build up a heating battery.

At the moment, there are several schemes for connecting radiators.

Experts say that an incorrectly chosen scheme can lead to the fact that 50% of the heat will be lost.

If additional sections are connected incorrectly, the system will heat up unevenly. And the slightest mistake, a defect can cause leaks and breakouts. Therefore, it is important to know how to properly connect the radiators, and to do the work carefully and carefully.

The methods for connecting radiators are given below:

It should be noted that serial connection heating radiators are the most reliable and economically viable. The easiest method to implement is to conduct one common channel for supplying the coolant.

What will it take to extend the battery?

Before connecting a heating radiator, you need to calculate how many sections you need to install for more efficient heating premises. And buy required amount additional sections. Better to choose cast iron.

Also, before properly connecting heating radiators, you should prepare all necessary tools, purchase some materials:

How to connect the battery?

Without understanding how to connect the heating batteries, without knowing the principle of operation of the heating system, it will not work to properly build up the radiator.

Preparatory work

The first step is to carry out preparatory work. This includes removing the radiator. It is necessary to remove the sections that are planned to be increased.

The battery must be cleaned, remove rust, dust and dirt.

Inspect the threaded hole that connected the structure to the pipe. There may be growths. They must be removed with sandpaper. Otherwise, the intersection gasket will be leaking. And this can lead to the fact that the heating system will leak.

Joining sections

Further, the sections are connected. The sections to be connected are firmly attached to the battery. Make a gasket. Using a radiator wrench, measure the distance to the nipple. The nipple is inserted into the battery to the marked length. The pipe wrench is used to rotate the radiator wrench. Then the nipple is wrapped in two opposite sections. Make 3 turns with the radiator key. Similar actions are performed with the bottom of the battery.

Next, paronite gaskets and side plugs are taken and installed in the battery. In this case, a pipe wrench is used. The main thing is to tighten it very tightly to create a reliable, sealed structure. The section is connected to the radiator. The connection of the remaining sections is carried out in the same way.

Fastening the radiator to the wall

After all additional sections are attached, it is carried out. For this, hooks are installed at the level of the battery. The structure is hung up. All joints are fixed with fittings. Take a puff wrench... All joints are treated with sealant. Lately special adhesive tapes for pipes are now on sale.

Verification work

The resulting structure is inserted into the pipe at one end, and into the battery at the other. The joints are tightened tightly with a wrench. When the installation of the fitting is completed, waterproofing is carried out.

After the assembly of the radiators is completed, the system is inspected for defects. If everything is in order, a test run of the coolant is carried out. The first time the water is started up under reduced pressure. This allows you to detect where the connection is of poor quality and leaks. If leaks are detected, the water is turned off and work begins to eliminate the problem. The second time the coolant is started up under normal pressure.

After it was possible to connect the heating battery, it is necessary to let the radiator work for several hours. And after this time, check the condition of pipes, fittings, batteries.

Which battery connection scheme should I choose?

Since heating radiators can be connected to each other by different schemes, consider which one is more convenient and efficient.

Serial connection of radiators is used most often. Since it provides a high level of reliability. Requires minimal maintenance. The technical costs are low. Up to four batteries can be connected in this way. Heater connects to the system from below. When sagging radiators, pipes, it is necessary to put spacers.

The only drawback when connecting batteries according to this scheme is large heat losses. When water enters the top of the system, the battery cools down by about 7 degrees. The last radiators to heat the apartment will be worse. The temperature difference between the near and far batteries can reach 18 degrees. Thus, the room will warm up unevenly. But this problem can be solved by installing an additional electric boiler.

Connection example

Providing a house or apartment with heat is the number one task in the cold season. Therefore, every man in the street strives first of all to create an efficiently working system, which would be economically justified at the same time. And since most of the heating systems are of the radiator type, the question of how to properly connect the heating batteries is one of the most urgent.

For many, this does not mean anything, especially for those who are faced with the problem of piping a heating system for the first time. But those who have already dealt with the creation of such schemes, perfectly understands what is at stake.

There are not so many classifications of types of piping and piping, especially when it comes to piping radiators. Therefore, it will not be very difficult to understand this issue. Most often, it is the piping that affects the nature of the connection of battery radiators. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the classification of various heating systems and establish which one of them is best suited for this or that connection.

Heating system classification

The main criterion for dividing heating systems is the number of circuits. On this basis, all heating systems are divided into two groups:

1. One-pipe.
2. Two-pipe.

The first option is the simplest and cheapest. This is, in fact, a ring from boiler to boiler, where heating radiators are installed in between. If it comes to a one-story building, then this is a justified option in which you can use the natural circulation of the coolant. But in order for the temperature to be uniform in all rooms of the house, it is necessary to provide for some measures. For example, build up sections on the extreme heatsinks in the chain.

The best option for such a pipe scheme is to connect the battery using the Leningrad method. In fact, it turns out that an ordinary pipe goes through all the rooms near the floor, and they cut into it radiator batteries... In this case, the so-called bottom frame is used. That is, the radiator is connected to the pipe through two lower nozzles - the coolant enters one and exits the other.

Attention! Heat loss with this type of battery connection is 12-13%. This is the highest level of heat loss. So before making such a decision, weigh the pros and cons. Initial savings can turn into high operating costs.

Permissible errors

In general, this is a good wiring diagram that pays off in small buildings. And in order to evenly distribute the coolant over all radiators, you can install a circulation pump in it. The investment is inexpensive, and the device works perfectly and requires little power consumption. On the other hand, an even distribution of heat throughout all rooms is ensured.

By the way, the one-pipe piping scheme is very often used in city apartments. True, the bottom battery connection cannot be used here. The same should be said for the two-pipe system.

Other types of connection

There are more profitable options than the bottom connection, which provide a decrease in heat loss:

Diagonal view

1. Diagonal. All experts have long come to the conclusion that this type of connection is ideal, regardless of which piping scheme it is used in. The only system where it is impossible to use this type is the horizontal lower one-pipe system. That is, the same Leningrad woman. What is the essence of the diagonal connection? The coolant moves diagonally inside the radiator - from the upper branch pipe to the lower one. It turns out that hot water it is evenly distributed throughout the entire internal volume of the device, descending from top to bottom, that is, in a natural way. And since the speed of water movement is not very high during natural circulation, the heat transfer will be high. Heat loss in this case is only 2%.
2. Lateral, or one-sided. This type is very often used in apartment buildings. The connection is made to the side connections on one side. Experts believe that this type is one of the most effective, but only if the circulation of the coolant under pressure is installed in the system. In city apartments, this is not a problem. And to provide it in a private house, you will have to install a circulation pump.

What is the advantage of one species over others? In fact, the correct connection is the key to effective heat transfer and reduced heat loss. But in order to properly connect the battery, you need to prioritize.

Take, for example, a two-story private house... What to prefer in this case? There are several options here:

Two and one pipe systems

• Install one-pipe system with side connection.
• Install a two-pipe system with a diagonal connection.
• Use a one-pipe system with lower wiring on the first floor and top wiring on the second.

So you can always find connection diagram options. Of course, you will have to take into account some nuances, for example, the location of the premises, the presence of a basement or attic. But in any case, it is important to correctly distribute the radiators among the rooms, taking into account the number of their sections. That is, the power of the heating system will have to be taken into account without fail even with such a question as the correct connection of radiators.

In a one-story private house, it will not be very difficult to correctly connect the battery, given the length of the heating circuit. If this is a one-pipe Leningrad circuit, then only the bottom connection is possible. If two-pipe scheme, then you can use a collector system or solar. Both options are based on the principle of connecting one radiator to two circuits - coolant supply and return. In this case, the top piping is most often used, where the distribution along the contours is carried out in the attic.

By the way, this option is considered optimal both in terms of operation and during the repair process. Each circuit can be disconnected from the system without shutting down the latter. For this, a shut-off valve is installed at the point where the pipes are split. Exactly the same is mounted after the radiator on the return pipe. One has only to close both valves to cut off the circuit. After draining the coolant, you can safely engage in repairs. In this case, all other circuits will operate normally.

Classic system

Many people think that the option of connecting a radiator is not so important when it comes to heat dissipation. After all, a lot will depend on the type of heat source chosen. For example, in bimetallic radiators heating heat transfer is higher than that of cast iron. But imagine that cast-iron devices are installed according to the diagonal principle of the movement of the coolant, and bimetallic ones along the bottom. In the first case, heat loss is 2%, and in the second - 12%. The difference in losses is as much as 10%. For a heating system, this is a fairly high indicator that will affect not only temperature regime indoors, but also on the amount of fuel consumed. This is very important for private houses.

Today, experts give recommendations on how to increase the heat transfer of devices. To do this, on the wall behind the radiator, you can install a reflective panel, for example, a regular piece of fiberboard, finished aluminum foil... But keep in mind that the distance from the wall to the radiator in this case should be at least 1.5 cm.

Conclusion on the topic

What is the conclusion? Correct connection of heating radiators is an important criterion for the effective operation of the entire system. This will affect not only the temperature inside the rooms, but also the fuel consumption. And savings today have become the main indicator on which the well-being of every inhabitant of apartments and private houses depends.