Scheffler home care. Schefflera (umbrella tree): home care, growing, reproduction, planting, transplanting, pruning, species, photo of a plant

Among amateurs ornamental plants a small "rosette" tree - a cheflera is popular. Caring for this flower at home does not require special skills, but in order to maintain its appearance, it is important to follow a number of simple rules.

Sheffler's indoor flower belongs to the Aralievs. In nature, its representatives settle in Australia, Japan, China. Among the Scheffler genus, which has about 600 species, there are mainly low trees, shrubs, and sometimes lianas. Wild species can reach 2 m, indoor species are much lower. Leaves are of decorative value: complex, divided into several lobes, sitting on long petioles. Because of their shape, the sheffler is popularly called the "umbrella tree". The trunk of young plants is leafy, bare with age.

It blooms only in natural conditions. Inflorescences are elongated, racemose, resembling tentacles. That is why natural species are called "octopus tree". All parts of the sheffler are poisonous.

Types and varieties

Among the many types of shefflers in indoor floriculture, the following are cultivated:

1. Radiant. The trunk is upright, strong, grayish-brown, grows up to 80 cm. The petioles are brownish-reddish; leaves are green, can have up to 16 lobes. On its basis, the "Compact" variety was bred with variegated leaves and sizes more suitable for home conditions.
2. Arboreal, sometimes called "Abricola" (schefflera arboricola). A compact plant, shaped like a branchy tree. The leaves are large, up to 20 cm long, bright green. Variegated varieties have been bred, for example, Janine: her leaves are creamy, with chaotic dark green spots.
3. Sheflera is the most graceful. Compact, up to 50 cm, plant with serrated leaves, sometimes decorated with cream edging.

On the basis of natural species (mainly variegated shefflers), varieties are bred, designed specifically for indoor floriculture. The most popular among them are:

1. Sheffler Melanie. The leaves are medium-sized, golden in color, sometimes with green splashes.
2. Schefflera Gold Capella. Leaves are glossy, fleshy, golden-olive, sometimes green at the edges. To maintain variegation, it needs bright diffused light all year round.
3. Scheffler Nora. Differs in the original shape of dark green leaves: the lobes are long, narrow, with large, uneven denticles. A yellow edging stands out along the edges; the vein is lighter in color. Unpretentious, densely leafy and graceful variety.
4. Scheffler Bianck. The shape of the leaves is similar to the previous variety, but they are shorter, with a white border around the edge.
5. Scheffler Louisiana. A graceful plant with leathery, shiny leaves of bright green color with yellow or white specks. The central vein is clearly visible. The variety is undemanding to keeping conditions.

How to care for a shefflera at home

Caring for a shefleur at home requires compliance with agricultural rules aimed at recreating the "native" tropical conditions.

Lighting and temperature control

The need for light depends on the type of sheffler. In variegated forms, it is higher; for them, window sills of western or eastern orientation will be optimal. Plants with monochromatic leaves feel great even on northern windows. Excess light, and even more direct sunlight, harm the sheffler. In the warm season, you can take out the tree on Fresh air choosing a shaded place for it. In winter, artificial lighting is desirable. If it is not there, the pot is moved to the southern windowsills.

Optimal temperature regime for an umbrella tree - 18-25 degrees. Summer heat is easier for him to endure outdoors. In winter, a temperature drop of up to 15 degrees is permissible. During this period, the sheffler is placed away from the batteries and protected from cold drafts.

Air humidity

Like all araliaceae, the Schefflera needs high humidity. In the summer, the leaves are sprayed daily. You can place the pot on a pallet with damp sand, expanded clay or sphagnum, which will preserve the beauty of the leaves during the entire hot period. With a decrease in temperature, the number of sprays is reduced; if in winter the sheffler is kept at 15-18 degrees, then they stop completely.

Watering and fertilizing

Scheffler is watered moderately, allowing the top layer of soil to dry out. The plant responds negatively to both excess and lack of moisture. Use soft rainwater or spring water, in extreme cases, you can defend tap water. Before use, it must be warmed up to 30-35 degrees.

Sheffler is fed from March to October twice a month. It is advisable to alternate mineral and organic fertilizers. The dosage is reduced by half the recommended dosage.

In winter, watering is reduced, without bringing the earthen coma to dry out completely. Top dressing is stopped altogether, as well as spraying. Flower care in winter period is not different. Sheffler does not need pruning.

Reproduction

If leaving does not cause problems, then the reproduction of shefflers may be beyond the power of novice growers. It reproduces in several ways: cuttings, layering and seeds.

To successfully root cuttings, you need:

1. Cut off strong healthy tops 7-10 cm long with a sharp knife.
2. Soak them in a solution of any stimulant (Heteroauxin, Epin, Succinic acid) for several hours.
3. Prepare small containers with drainage holes, lay a layer of expanded clay on the bottom.
4. Fill containers with a mixture of sand and peat (1: 1).
5. Plant the cuttings, water the soil thoroughly.

After planting, the containers are placed in greenhouse conditions. It is important to ventilate the seedlings daily. The temperature in greenhouses should be kept within 20-23 degrees. For successful rooting, it is advisable to provide the seedlings with bottom heating. Central heating batteries are not suitable for this purpose. Shefler's sheet does not multiply.

The roots appear in about a month. After the young plants grow a pair of new leaves, they can be transplanted into tight pots (0.25-0.35 l) and put in a permanent place. Experienced florists it is advised to plant several cuttings in one pot; they can even be intertwined.

Growing roots on cuttings is similar to propagation by cuttings, with the difference that the young plant does not separate from the mother until it grows its own roots.

To obtain layering, a shallow incision is made on the trunk of an adult plant 7-10 cm below the top. Then he wraps himself in wet sphagnum and wraps himself in a plastic bag. The package is secured from above and below with a thread or wire. This is done to create a greenhouse effect. The moss is constantly kept moist. After the appearance of air roots, the cutting is cut, planted in a sand-peat mixture and placed in a greenhouse for several weeks.

Schefflera from seed is one of the easiest, albeit patient, breeding methods. The seed can be purchased at specialized flower shops. It is problematic to get it on your own, since the umbrella tree does not bloom in indoor conditions.

Before planting, the seeds are soaked for several hours in a solution of Epin, Zircon or any other stimulant. Planting containers must be deep. A drainage layer is laid in them, covered with a mixture of peat and sand, and moistened. Seeds are planted in holes 0.5 cm deep. The containers are placed in greenhouse conditions. Bottom heating is desirable.

After the emergence of seedlings, greenhouses begin to ventilate daily. After the appearance of 2-3 leaves, the seedlings dive in separate containers, using the same soil mixture that was used for planting. The seedlings are kept in greenhouse conditions, spraying and airing daily, until they are strong and ready to be transplanted into permanent pots.

Transfer

Young plants are transplanted annually, as they grow intensively. Adult shefflers do not tolerate this procedure well, so they are transferred into large containers only as needed, that is, every 2-3 years.

The optimal soil for the chefler should contain 2 parts of sod land and 1 part each of peat and sand. You can purchase the appropriate blend at flower shops. The first pot is selected so that 3-4 cm remain from the trunk to the sides.Each next container should be 2-3 cm larger.

The transplant of the chefs is carried out as follows:

• a layer of drainage and fresh soil is placed in a new container;
• the plant is removed together with an earthen lump, trying not to violate its integrity;
• installed in a prepared pot so that the trunk does not have to be buried;
• pour soil on the sides, tamping it slightly;
• watered abundantly.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to transplant the chefler "out of hour", for example, if she began to rot. In this case, the root system is completely freed from the soil. Rotten areas are cut off by sprinkling the cuts with crushed charcoal or activated carbon; you can keep the roots in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or Fundazol.

The plant is planted in a tighter container than the previous one. In the composition of the soil, the proportion of sand is increased. After planting, be sure to place the sheffler in the greenhouse, treating it like a handle.

Growing problems

Schefflera can be affected by the scabbard, mealybug and a spider mite. The scabbard is easy to recognize at the initial stage of infection by sticky spots on the leaves. Soon the foliage begins to turn yellow, and only then adult females appear on the plant - small brownish tubercles. The scale insect is a dangerous and "tenacious" pest that is able to quickly occupy not only the infected, but also neighboring plants. Do not start the fight with washing the leaves with soap, alcohol - these tips are only good for how accompanying agent... The main thing should be repeated spraying with systemic insecticides.

A tick infestation can be judged by a thin cobweb on the leaves. The upper leaves begin to lag behind in development, the growth point is inhibited. When the first signs appear, treat the sheffler several times with any acaricide, for example, Neoron. It is important to observe an interval of 7 days between sprays.

Common diseases of the chefs are stem and root rot. They appear when excess watering, especially in the cool season. Transplanting with the removal of all rotten parts will help to reanimate the plant. It is important to treat the cuts with crushed charcoal or fungicides. In advanced cases, they try to save at least the upper part by re-rooting it.

Sometimes the shefflera's condition worsens due to violations of agricultural technology.

External manifestations	Probable causes	Remedies
The chefs have darkened and leaves fall	the plant throws off its leaves when it is cold or hot	Provide the Scheffler with the Optimum Temperature
Leaves turn pale and turn yellow	Most often this indicates a lack of nutrition.	Remember to feed the sheffler regularly
Leaves fade, lose their variegated color	Schefflere little light	Move the pot to a lighter spot
Dark spots appear on the leaves	This symptom indicates excessive watering in the cool season.	Water sparingly: in winter, waterlogging of an earthen coma can lead to the death of the plant
Leaves dry, turn brown at the edges	There may be several reasons: insufficient watering, dry air, or drafts	Observe agricultural techniques, do not forget to spray the plant daily in the summer.

Shefflera seeds are planted in the second half of winter: from mid-January to the end of February. Before planting, seeds are soaked in a stimulant (according to the instructions in the instructions), for example, Epine or Zircon, to accelerate germination.

Seeds are planted in a disinfected soil, consisting of sod and leafy soil with the addition of sand, all components are taken in equal proportions. The second variant of the planting mixture is sand mixed with peat in a one-to-one concentration.

The seeds are placed at a depth of five to six centimeters. The distance between adjacent ones should be twice their size.

After planting, the soil is periodically watered, not allowing it to dry out, and the room temperature is maintained in the range from + 20 ºC to + 25 ºC.

The pot can be covered with plastic wrap to create a greenhouse effect, in which case the plant needs regular ventilation.

Transplanting seedlings into pots is carried out when the first three leaves appear on them. It is very important to keep the sheffler seedlings at + 19 ºC for the first three months after transplanting.

Location and lighting

Lighting is very important for the sheffler, so the best location for her is on the windowsill of the east, west and north windows. should stand in the brightest place in the room.

Please note that variegated sheffler varieties can lose their expressiveness of color due to a lack of light, so even the northern windows are not sufficiently illuminated for them.

The location on the southern windows should be treated with caution, as the plant can be hot on them, and exposure to sunlight can lead to leaf burns.

If the windows of the room face south, the sheffler will have enough lighting on the table, standing near the window.

With a lack of lighting, the sheffler stops its development, and sometimes even dies, therefore, in low natural light, use fluorescent lamps.

Pot size

The sizes of the pots are chosen depending on the age of the plant. Seedlings are planted in small containers, which can be plastic cups. When root system plants will take up all the space, the sheffler is transplanted into a pot with a diameter of 9 centimeters, and by autumn - 12 centimeters in diameter. With subsequent transplants, the size of the pot should be 3-5 centimeters larger than the previous one.

The soil

Soils for planting shefflers may vary slightly in composition, but must be nutritious, light and breathable.

An adult plant can grow in the same soil in which the seeds were planted: a peat-sand mixture or a mixture of sand with sod and leafy soil.

For an adult sheffler, you can prepare a new mixture: 2 parts of sod land, 1 part of leafy soil, 1 part of river sand and 1 part of humus.

If you do not want to prepare the soil yourself, a ready-made mixture is sold in the flower shop; the soil for ficuses is best suited for the sheffler.

Transfer

The frequency of transplanting a sheffler depends on the plant: grown from a sheffler seed, it is transplanted in the first year of its life, about six months after planting. Small developing plants are transplanted every two years, and large ones - not more often than once every three years, but better - at five years.

Young plants need to be replanted more often due to the development of the root system, which quickly takes up the entire space of the pot.

The new pot should not contain voids, so the soil is pressed tightly so that the roots fit snugly to the ground.

When transplanting, expanded clay drainage should form at the bottom of the pot.

When the plant is transplanted, it should be watered well.

Large plants are transplanted while maintaining the formed soil coma. For them, only the top layer of soil changes, for this the top ten-centimeter layer of earth is removed and a new one is introduced in its place.

The most in a safe way The branched sheffler transplant is a transshipment method.

Fertilizers and feeding

Top dressing of shefflers is carried out only with liquid fertilizers. Fertilizers should be for indoor plants, and the frequency of feeding depends on the season. In the period from October to March, the sheffler is fertilized every two months, and the rest of the time - every three weeks.

The concentration of fertilizers recommended on the package is not always suitable for the Scheffler, so if you are not familiar with the fertilizer, prepare a solution of a weaker concentration. It is much safer to make the fertilizer concentration 5 times weaker, but apply it twice as often.

A fairly popular method of fertilizing the Scheffler is weekly during the summer with a mixture 8 times weaker than the recommended one.

Dry dressings for the sheffler are undesirable, and fertilization with chopsticks is fraught with overdose.

Watering

Shefflers will be successful if only the plant is properly watered.

The soil should always be slightly moistened, while watering the plant should be moderate.

If we talk about the extremes, the sheffler tolerates overdrying better than waterlogging. If the soil contains a lot of moisture, the leaves of the plant will begin to turn black.

In warm weather, in addition to watering, plants are additionally sprayed with soft water.

In winter, the sheffler does not develop as quickly as in summer, so watering is reduced. The difference in temperatures is compensated for by spraying, that is, if the temperature in the room is the same in both winter and summer, then the watering is reduced, and the spraying remains the same.

Temperature

The temperature of the room in which the shefflers develop best is in the range from +18 ºC to +23 ºC. At the same time, shefflers are not picky and develop well under normal conditions, the main thing is to carry out timely spraying and maintain a good microclimate.

In winter, try to keep the plant away from heating appliances, as strong overheating leads to leaf fall. Try to avoid sudden changes in temperature.

Humidity

Schefflera prefers high humidity, so she feels very comfortable in a room with a lot of plants.

Spraying has become a very popular method of moisturizing shefflers. This procedure is especially indispensable in hot dry weather. Take exceptionally soft water for spraying, better filtered, so that white stains do not remain on the leaves.

Leaves should be regularly wiped off dust with a damp cloth.

Air humidity can be increased by placing the pot on a layer of wet expanded clay.

Pruning

To give a tree-like shape to the plant, pruning is carried out. To get a lush bush, several flowers must sit in one pot.

Pruning is not done on plants that are shedding leaves, as the root cause of this is the root of the plant and pruning will not help here.

Most often, pruning is carried out in the spring to shorten the longest branches and stimulate the development of young shoots.

Pests and diseases

Sheffler pests and diseases are no different from other indoor plants. The most popular pests for the sheffler are spider mite, scale insects and aphids.

Insects are removed from the plant with a cotton swab smeared with soapy water, after which the plant is treated.

The easiest way to get rid of pests is to spray the plant with soapy water.

As a preventive measure, such spraying can be carried out every two weeks. If the pests have already appeared, the plants are treated daily. If this method is ineffective, increase the spraying frequency or use chemical means from shops.

Scheffler's diseases are associated with improper conditions of detention:

1. Leaves turn yellow and fall.

• Insufficient illumination. Probably, the plant lacks natural light, install additional fluorescent lamps or put flowers closer to the window.

2. Blackened leaves

• The plant was getting too much moisture;
• Improper drainage in the pot;

Reduce the number of waterings, make sure the soil is breathable.

3. The plant has no straight stems, and it curls

• Lack of light;

4. The tips of the leaves turn brown.

• Dry indoor air;

Use a humidifier, spray the leaves more often, or place a container of water nearby.

5. Falling green leaves

• The plant is cold;
• The plant is very hot (most often accompanied by drying out of the foliage);

Transfer the sheffler to a warmer place, irrigate with slightly warmed water.

6. The appearance of brown spots on the leaves or blisters on the inside of the leaf

• The plant is waterlogged;

7. The appearance of light spots on the leaves

• Excess lighting;

8. Fading foliage

• Lack of lighting;

Bloom

Shefflers bloom very rarely at home. The flowers look like tentacles.

If the shefflera has bloomed, she does not need additional attention and care during flowering.

Reproduction

Reproduction of shefflers can take place in a vegetative way or by planting seeds.

Propagation by cuttings

For reproduction, cuttings are cut semi-lignified with the onset of spring. Most often, cuttings are selected from the top of the sheffler.

The foliage remains only at the top of the cutting, and is completely removed from the lower part. Before planting, the cuttings are treated with a root stimulator. The fastest rooting is in cuttings planted in a loose mixture of peat and sand.

The container in which the cuttings are planted is covered with plastic wrap on top to ensure that the moisture level is maintained and the supply of favorable diffused light. Try to keep the temperature around + 22ºC, spray the cuttings regularly and ventilate the container.

The formation of roots can be accelerated by organizing the bottom heating of the planting, but do not put it on the battery, in order to avoid overheating.

Plants can be transplanted in three months, when the root system is formed and gets stronger.

Propagation by air layers

You can get good air layers of shefflers only from a large plant.

For this in early spring at the place where the trunk of the plant began to lignify, two small annular cuts are made at a distance of three centimeters from each other. Then carefully remove the bark between them and sprinkle with the rooting mixture. Wet moss soaked in nutrient solution is placed on top and wrapped with foil. Throughout the rooting process, the moss must remain moist.

It will take three to five months to wait for the roots to appear.

When the roots appear, you need to let them grow stronger for two months and only after that remove the film, the layer of moss and cut off the trunk of the plant below the level of root growth. The young plant is planted in another pot.

The rest of the plant is cut to the root, but watering does not stop. After a while, young shoots will appear on it, and you will end up with two plants at once.

Dormant period

Shefflers have a dormant period in the winter. This plant does not shed foliage, but slows down or completely stops growth. Due to the onset of a dormant period and the cessation of growth, the sheffler needs much less moisture, so watering is reduced.

The plant will rest best if it is transferred to a bright, cool room. The optimum temperature for winter recreation is +15 ºC. Throughout the rest period, the sheffler should be protected from bright light. A plant that is well rested during the winter develops better and is much less susceptible to disease.

Plant toxicity / beneficial properties

Schefflera is useful and poisonous at the same time.

The toxicity of the plant is due to the content of substances that irritate the skin and mucous membranes.

Always wash your hands after contact with the shefflera to avoid skin rashes.

The beneficial properties of shefflera lie in its ability to improve the environmental situation of the room in which it grows. Scheffler not only contributes to an increase in air humidity, but also saturates it with ozone and aero ions. Some believe that this plant has an impact on the emotional environment in the room, absorbing all negative energy and radiating harmony and tranquility.

Sheflera is a frequent visitor to the windowsills of houses, offices and even schools. This tropical mini-tree attracts flower growers with its glossy luxurious palm-like leaves.

Together they form a large green umbrella. Although this southern visitor blooms rarely and modestly - with yellow-green or light green umbrellas - she still managed to win the hearts and love of housewives.

However, in esotericism, the chef is considered an energy vampire, capable of feeding on the strength and health of household members. Its condition - the color of leaves, stems, wilting or flowering, can tell a lot to the owners. These predictions are not always pleasant and positive. Therefore, some are afraid to put this flower in the house, relying on signs and superstitions about the chefler.

Sheflera is able to absorb the energy of the residents. According to the signs, the chef eats negative energy accumulated in the house, performing a kind of "magic" cleaning of the apartment. Those who are fortunate enough to raise a chef on the window are very happy: their health improves, anger, hatred, envy and other bad feelings disappear.

The flower does not begin magical cleansing immediately, but after a few months. So there is no need to make any special claims to the newly purchased pot with the plant. Esotericists advise, together with the cat, to "run" into the new home to the chefler - the flower will be able to eliminate Negative consequences lives of previous owners or builders, if the house is new.

It is important to see what the chef looks like, then we can draw a conclusion about the family in which the flower lives.

For example, signs say that sprawling greenery and a succulent appearance of the plant indicate well-being in the family. But the withered unhealthy appearance of the flower predicts many problems. So, a house vampire can predict and tell a lot.

Another very useful "skill" chefs notice signs and superstitions: she is able to read a person's thoughts, his mood. Therefore, if you want to check on one of the guests, sit on the sofa, and put a pot with a flower next to it. By the appearance of the chefs, you will understand with what intentions and thoughts a person appeared.

It turns out that it would be nice to place a pot with a green cheflera on the table of a schoolchild or student: the flower helps to concentrate, to assimilate information. Such a silent tutor, on whom you do not need to spend a lot of money.

Speaking of money. According to some signs, the plant with its palm leaves attracts money to the family well. And in the office, a flower will help "catch" large clients and conclude successful deals.

The benefits and harms of Shefflers in the house

Sheflera is a rather unique flower and surely everyone will have a desire to "invite" her to his home. But first you need to understand what a green beauty can bring to your home.

Benefits in the house:

1. Excellent air purification and ionization. Due to the wide spreading leaves, the cheflera makes the atmosphere in the house wellness.
2. Absorption of the negative. Slowly but surely, the chef is able to remove all the accumulated fatigue and anger of the household.
3. Checking outsiders. Plant your own appearance is able to give a sign with what intentions this or that person comes into the house. Isn't it a lie detector?
4. Assimilation of knowledge. Children and students just need to have such an assistant: with a plant, all information is remembered much faster.

Harm in the house:

1. Like any vampire, even a good one, the chef takes a piece of energy from the household. People who are especially sensitive may feel unwell.
2. Not everyone will be pleased to see how the plant suddenly begins to wilt. After all, this omen promises failure. And not everyone wants to know that nothing good awaits ahead.
3. The leaves of the plant are poisonous. If you touch the flower often, dermatitis may appear. You only need to work with him with gloves.

Is it possible to keep Shefler at home and where to put in Feng Shui

Astrologers allow all zodiac signs to plant such a flower in their apartment. But they especially recommend the chefler to representatives of the fire element - Aries, Leo and Sagittarius. She will be able to relax them, moderate the ardor, and also dump the accumulated negative.

To make it convenient for a tropical guest to live side by side with you, it is important to place her in the most comfortable conditions. For example, experts in the eastern direction of feng shui recommend placing a flower pot on the west (wealth and money sector) or north (career sector) side of the apartment.

In order for the chef to take root better in a new place, you need to have conversations with her, you can gently stroke the leaves (not forgetting that the plant is poisonous).

According to feng shui, it is also believed that it is appropriate to put a flower not only in a room where children are studying something, but also in a bedroom. The flower will cleanse the surrounding space of negative energy, this will make your sleep stronger, calmer, the body will be able to completely rest and recover overnight.

Signs on the state of the flower

Sheflera is an excellent predictor, and if you take a good look at her condition, you can save yourself from troubles and troubles.

Leaves change color and become covered with dark spots... This means that a lot of bad energy has accumulated in the house, which leads to quarrels, conflicts and disagreements. You need to try to extinguish the negativity in yourself, as well as take a closer look at the environment - perhaps someone is trying to jinx you or damage you.

Leaves began to fall... This sign speaks of possible losses - financial or emotional. According to some signs, this means illness or death of a loved one.

The leaves of the plant began to curl up... Be prepared - conflicts in the family and at work await you.

The flower stopped growing... You need to reassess your values: perhaps you are going the wrong way and you need to change tactics both in business and in your personal life.

The stem and roots begin to rot... This Bad sign- means an imminent discord and split in the family or at work, up to losses.

Sheflera started grow very fast... According to signs and superstitions, this speaks of an imminent pregnancy.

Glossy and juicy leaves are a sign of well-being, a white streak in life.

Flower care

To avoid negative signs and superstitions associated with the condition of the chefs, it is important to know how to properly care for her. Experienced florists will introduce you to the basics of ennobling this topical guest.

Watering... Two to three times a week. It is important not to overdry or overmoisten the soil in the pot. Water for irrigation - never from the tap. It needs to be defended for a day, or rather two.

Lighting... Sheflera loves a lot of light, but direct sunlight is destructive for her. Therefore, it is better to choose a west or north window.

Temperature... Strangely enough, the tropical plant does not tolerate high temperatures. The flower feels good when the room is + 20 + 23 degrees. In the summer, you can take the flower pot outside, just put it in a shaded place.

Pot... A wide, squat pot is suitable for this plant, as the roots of the plant grow quite strongly.

The soil... It is enough to buy a special soil that is suitable for palm trees - it is fatty and fertile. And most importantly, the soil should be loose. You can make it yourself by adding humus of leaves, coarse peat and sand to the ground.

Despite all its mysticism and mystery, the cheflera is, first of all, very handsome indoor flower... Therefore, aesthetic pleasure, air purification - these are its main properties. You do not need to rely heavily on signs and superstitions in order not to let extra nerves and negativity into your life. If you like a flower, then this is your flower, feel free to buy it and populate it home. After all, the main advisor for any choice in your life is your heart and intuition.

Fans of exotic flowers appreciate the chefler - an unpretentious guest from the tropics. At home, the plant never blooms, but it is loved for its unusual leaves. It is not difficult for a chefler to grow and reproduce in indoor conditions. And she needs ordinary care: watering, pruning, feeding, protection from diseases and pests. Even a novice florist, who had previously seen the chief only in the photo, can cope with this.

Optimal conditions for development

Care rules:

• The best place for a pot is in the south, east, or west windowsill. However, too bright sun rays are contraindicated for the plant. The exception is trees with variegated leaves. For everyone else, hang light curtains or pieces of gauze over the window.
• The air temperature should be around + 16 ... + 22 ° C in summer and + 14 ... + 16 ° C in winter. Variegated varieties are more capricious: they need about + 18 ° C all the time.
• Drafts or sudden changes in location can negatively affect flower development. But in the summer it is still recommended to take the umbrella tree out into the fresh air, protecting it from the active sun, or often ventilate the room without drafts.

• On hot days, pay particular attention to the humidity in the air. Tropical culture does not tolerate excessive dryness. Wipe the leaves periodically with a sponge dipped in water, or spray the flower.

Attention! Do not place a container with a chefler next to radiators.

• Watering frequency depends on the season. In summer, it is 2-3 times a week, in winter - twice less. The water should be kept warm. You can put a pot of culture in a tray with expanded clay and water through it.
• The chefler should be fed during the period of its active growth: from mid-spring to early autumn. Complex fertilizers or fertilizers for palms, ficuses are suitable. The frequency of introduction is once a month.

Attention! A young plant that has recently gone through a transplant or propagation procedure can only be fertilized after new leaves appear.

How to prune and replant an umbrella tree

In order for the chef to not lose its decorative effect, it must be periodically cut off. Do it in the spring:

• shorten the top of the tree to create a spherical shape. Pinch the lateral shoots that appeared after this;
• if you want to form a pyramid, trim off the tops of the side branches. Pinching the tops of the head, water and feed the flower well;
• do not touch the top of the crown if you want to turn the plant into a spectacular tree. Remove side leaves and shoots.

Attention! Contact with the plant can provoke dermatitis, eye irritation. Perform any work with gloves, then wash your hands with soap and rinse your face with cool water.

Often, several plants are planted in one container. This technique is suitable for those who want to grow the chef like a bush. In the first year, the young culture must be transplanted. In the future, the procedure is carried out every 2-3 years. The diameter of the new container should be 5-7 cm larger than the previous one.

The soil for planting or replanting requires slightly acidic, loose and fertile soil. It's easy to cook it yourself. To do this, mix 2 parts of turf and 1 part of leafy soil, as well as one part of humus and coarse sand. After rooting, water the chefler, compact the soil.

Advice. An adult umbrella tree is transplanted using the transshipment method.

How to propagate a chefler

The easiest and most popular way is grafting. The trunk should be fully or half lignified. Required condition- the presence of 3-5 leaves on each cutting. Before rooting planting material soaked for several hours in a growth stimulator. Shoots are planted in a mixture of sand, soil and peat, then they are watered and covered with a plastic bag.

Caring for cuttings consists of daily ventilation, regular spraying and watering as needed. The optimum temperature is around + 22 ° C. After about a month, the new plants will take root. They need to be transplanted into individual containers with a diameter of up to 9 cm and transferred to a lighted room with a temperature of up to + 16 ° C. After a few weeks, young trees are planted in a permanent place.

Reproduction by layering is suitable for old specimens that have lost their decorative properties. For this:

• in the spring, make a wide incision on the trunk;
• wrap it with a piece of moss treated with a growth stimulant;
• put plastic wrap on top;

• moisturize the moss regularly;
• after the appearance of the roots, wait a couple more months;
• cut the trunk just below the place where the roots formed and plant;
• Shorten the rest of the tree flush with the ground. At proper care there is a chance that she will start new shoots.

Attention! The seed method of propagation of the umbrella tree is almost not practiced, because the culture does not bloom at home. You can buy seed at specialized stores... Sow it in the middle of winter, adhering to the basic recommendations for growing young sheflers.

What to do if the plant is sick

Often the cause of the unhealthy "appearance" of a flower is inaccuracies in caring for it. If the leaves become covered with spots, turn black, fall off, and the cheflera dries up - most likely, she does not have enough moisture. Increase watering, but make sure that the water does not stagnate at the roots. Rotting root processes can also provoke wilting of foliage. Therefore, during planting and transplanting, remember to have a good drainage layer.

Advice. The decayed plant must be transplanted, completely removing the affected parts and treating the cut with a fungicide.

Too active sun will provoke burns on the crop, and temperatures below + 16 ° C will lead to yellowing of the leaves. A sparse crown and stretching of shoots is a sign of a lack of lighting. If the chief has lost decorative view due to improper care, cut it completely. In a comfortable environment, she will start new shoots.

Sometimes a spider mite, scale insect or aphid settle on a flower. Treatment with soapy water or insecticide will help get rid of them. With proper care and suitable conditions, the chef will not give trouble even to an inexperienced owner. But it will delight him with a beautiful and unusual appearance.

Features of the sheflera's care: video

This plant with touchingly spread out leaves, reminiscent of a human palm, has recently been cultured, but has already managed to win the hearts of flower growers with its decorativeness and unpretentiousness. Caring for a flower by a sheflera at home is simple, it is feasible even for novice florists.

The genus shefler, to which the flower belongs, is numerous and has up to 200 species. Not all are suitable for indoor culture, some can grow in natural conditions up to 40 m. At home, the plant height is much lower, but some varieties reach the ceiling of the room. The flower easily endures pruning and shaping, here the florist's fantasy can be fully developed. Most often, the following species can be found in room culture.

Sheflera is eight-leafed.

On creamy drooping petioles there are 8 to 12 large (up to 40 cm in length) glossy green leaves. Leaf veins have more light color... There are variegated forms. At home, in Asian countries, it grows in the form of a bush or tree and reaches a height of 2 to 16 m.

Sheflera is tree-like.

Despite the name, it has low height, although it grows in the form of a branchy tree. The leaves grow up to 20 cm in length. Amate requires less light than other species and is very resistant to pests. Its leaves are bright green, shiny. The Gold Capella variety also has green leaves, but with small yellow specks. The plant itself looks like a small palm tree. In Taiwan, where it grows wild, it is a four meter long evergreen bush. In indoor culture, there are many miniature varieties with monochromatic and variegated foliage: Melanie does not grow taller than 50 cm, Charlotte has beautiful white spots on leathery leaves, and the Caster variety is intended for lovers of small forms, 30 cm is the limit of its height. The tree-like chefler is successfully grown in the form of a bonsai.

Sheflera is radiant.

It is sometimes called star-leaved. It is found most often in culture. It grows in the form of a tree with a gray-brown straight trunk. On brown-red long petioles, 7 ovoid green shiny leaves with lighter veins and a wavy edge. The Nova variety has an oaky leaf shape. At home in Australia, it is an epiphyte that grows on trees in tropical forests and feeds on aerial roots. In the room it grows quickly to 80 cm, then grows slowly.

Sheflera is the most graceful.

Even at home, in Australia and New Zealand, it reaches a height of only 2 m. It does not grow taller than 50 cm in a room. It has unusual elongated leaves with jagged edges, sometimes decorated with beige edging.

Shefler Veitch.

Young leaves of this species have a reddish tint. They turn green with age. The leaves themselves are wavy, the edge with rounded teeth.

Sheflera's business.

In the forests of Western China, it grows up to 3 m, in the room - only up to 50 cm. The leaf is unusual for a chefler, resembles an oak in shape, but much larger in size. This species is less sensitive to light than others.

Shefler's flower - cultivation features

Sheflera is a plant in the tropics. It is difficult to create such conditions in the room, but the flower does not pretend to them. It is enough just to observe the light and temperature conditions, protect it from drafts, water and feed it correctly. For variegated forms, good illumination is especially important, otherwise the plant may lose the brightness of the color of the leaves.

Home care

The plant is unpretentious, but if you do not create it necessary conditions, may simply shed the leaves and lose all its decorative effect. Once the care is adjusted, the shefler quickly builds up leaf mass.

When working with a flower, it must be remembered that the sap of the plant contains irritating mucous membranes and skin, therefore, all manipulations associated with pruning must be carried out with gloves.

Lighting, temperature control

This native of the tropics loves light, but only tolerates direct sunlight at home. In a room, the midday sun can burn leaves on the leaves. Therefore, the most best windows share of chefs - oriented to the south-east or south-west. Some species are able to feel good on the northern window, but not variegated forms. They need more light - then the color of the leaves will be especially contrasting. In winter, the flower needs to be provided with maximum illumination, so it is better to rearrange it to the south window.

Rotate the pot periodically to help the plant develop evenly.

The temperature regime for chefs depends on the season. In winter, in a state of relative rest, she needs from 14 to 18 degrees of heat. For variegated forms, the temperature should be higher than for plants with completely green leaves. In summer, room temperature is suitable, but not higher than 30 degrees. Unlike many indoor plants, the chefler is not afraid of temperature fluctuations, on the contrary, they benefit her, increasing the vitality of the flower. Therefore, feel free to take it out into the garden with the onset of warmth, just pick up a place with a lace shadow at noon.

Soil requirements

The plant loves the soil light and nutritious, absorbing air and moisture well. The soil reaction should be neutral or slightly acidic.

You can do with purchased soil intended for palms or make a soil mixture of the following composition:

• sod land - 2 parts;
• peat, sand, humus, leaf earth - 1 part each.

Watering and humidity

Watering for this plant should be moderate. Overflow is fraught with rotting of the root system, it cannot be allowed. Water the flower when the topsoil dries up a little, in the summer - 2 or 3 times a week, in the winter - 1 time. The earthen coma must not be allowed to completely dry out.

Sheflera loves high humidity. They increase it in the following ways:

• spraying the plant several times a day with soft and warm water;
• wiping the leaves with a wet cloth;
• placing the pot in a pallet with moistened expanded clay or moss, but so that moisture does not touch the drainage hole.

For any water procedure, only soft water with a minimum salt content is suitable. Its temperature should be slightly higher than that of the surrounding air.

Top dressing and fertilization

As soon as the first appears in the spring new leaf, the chef begins to feed. This is done every 2 weeks with a complex fertilizer for ornamental plants, slightly reducing the dosage against the norm. It is useful to spray the leaves with a solution of immunostimulants once a month.

How to cut the chefler?

Cut the flower to form a lush crown and reduce the vertical size of fast growing varieties. The first pruning is carried out at the grown plant, shortening the apical shoot by 4 internodes. The trimming tool must be sharp. It is better to process cuts with crushed coal. After the appearance and regrowth of lateral shoots, you can begin to form a spherical crown, cutting off their tops. All cuttings can be used for propagation. Pruning weakens the plant, so do it in stages.

Transfer

A young cheflera requires an annual transplant, which is carried out in the spring. For an adult plant, this procedure is carried out every few years, choosing a pot larger than the previous one. Upper layer the substrate in adult plants is changed annually. The chefler's flower needs good drainage - the volume of the drainage layer of expanded clay, fragments of an old pot or brick should take up a quarter of the entire pot.

The feeding of the transplanted plants begins when they release a new leaf.

Dormant period

It is very important for the plant. In low light conditions, he needs to slow down his metabolism.

To do this, do the following:

• reduce feeding, it is enough to feed the chefler 2 times per winter;
• reduce watering;
• lower the temperature;
• lighting during this period should be the maximum possible, this is especially important for variegated forms.

Reproduction of a chefler flower

Reproduction of sheflers can be carried out with almost lignified cuttings, seeds and air layers.

• Cut to the chefler in the spring, making an oblique cut and leaving no more than three leaves on the cuttings, which are shortened by half. The cut should be dipped in a root formation stimulator and the cutting should be planted in a wet mixture of peat and sand under a plastic bag. For the cutting to take root, the soil temperature must be about 25 degrees. The package is removed 1-2 times a day for airing, and the soil is moistened so that it does not dry out. When the roots grow, young plants are planted in pots with a diameter of 9-10 cm.

Cuttings of variegated forms take root more difficult than green-leaved ones.

• Sheffler seeds can be purchased at a flower shop. Before sowing, they are soaked in an immunostimulator, for example, in Epin, and then sown in a mixture of peat and sand to a depth of about 2 cm and covered with a polyethylene bag. Germination is possible at temperatures around 25 degrees. The chefs can be seated in separate cups when the second sheet appears. At first, young chefs need warmth.
• Air layering is obtained if the chefs make a notch on the trunk and wrap this place with moss moistened in a solution of a root formation stimulator. The moss must be kept constantly moist. It is best to wrap it in plastic. As soon as the roots appear, and it happens after 2 months, the cuttings are cut off and planted in a permanent place. If you continue to care for the mother plant by wrapping wet moss around the cut, it will begin to branch.
• The plant responds by dropping leaves on too high fever in summer or too low in winter. Another reason is over-watering. The plant also loses its leaves if it does not have enough light.
• Yellow leaves can be a signal that pests have appeared on the flower. If they are not there, then the flower is simply too hot.
• The leaves of the cheflera turn black if the root rots, which happens with excessive watering. The plant is removed from the pot, the damaged roots are cut off and sprinkled with crushed coal, dried and planted again. Dark spots, starting from the tips, appear on the chefler with low air humidity and a lack of moisture in the pot.