Cultivation of planting material for tulips. Growing tulips: planting and care in the open field, when to dig up bulbs, reproduction, photo and video

Who would have thought that tulips, the cultivation of which only five centuries ago was available only to the richest segments of the population, will now be found in almost every flower garden. These bright flowers have become real symbols of spring and the awakening of nature! But why do some tulips grow so gorgeous that it is difficult to take your eyes off, while others do not look very presentable?

Preparing the bulbs and choosing where to plant them

Although the cultivation of tulips in open ground and is considered a simple matter, accessible to any novice gardener, in fact, you need to take into account many important little things so that the plants turn out to be even, beautiful, with large flowers... Sometimes even minor mistakes can lead to such undesirable consequences as slow growth of tulips, rotting of stems or their curvature, the formation of small buds, wilting and rapid wilting of flowers, etc.

The key to beautiful, healthy tulips is a careful selection of planting material

Excellent results can be achieved if:

selected a suitable place for planting tulips, with good soil and lighting;
the bulbs were carefully sorted before planting, and unhealthy, damaged, small specimens were rejected;
the planting of the bulbs took place at the most successful time for this;
when planting, the planting depth and the distance between the bulbs were respected;
immediately after the snow melted and until the end of flowering, the tulips were provided with proper care.

Tulip cultivation video

Let's take a closer look at what the tulip growing technology is, and what points you should definitely pay attention to.

The key to beautiful, healthy tulips is a careful selection of planting material. You can buy properly prepared and properly processed bulbs or harvest them yourself by digging tulips at the end of the growing season. When self-harvesting planting material, the bulbs are sorted and sent for storage in a dark place at a temperature of +20 degrees until autumn.

When the time is right for planting tulips, the bulbs are sorted out again, carefully examining for damage, signs of disease and rot. After that, the selected bulbs are cleaned from the upper husk, disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate and immediately planted in the ground.

When the time is right for planting tulips, the bulbs are sorted again.

Place for planting tulips should be determined from the summer. Moreover, it is necessary not only to take into account the illumination, soil reaction and bedding groundwater but also think carefully about where the tulips will look best. To make the multi-colored buds a real decoration of the garden and cause constant admiration among your guests and passers-by, it is worth exploring the options.

Better conditions for growing tulips: a flat, unshaded area (only the most hardy varieties feel good under trees and in the shade of a house), the reaction of the soil is close to neutral, the soil is light and fertile.

Highlights of tulip planting

Most gardeners prefer to plant tulips in autumn time so that during the winter they naturally go through a cooling period, during which new flowers sprout inside the bulbs. Planting bulbs in the spring is also okay, but be prepared for later tulip blooms.

Around the second half of September, when the ground temperature has already dropped to +10 degrees, and the frost has not yet begun, you should start planting tulips. To do this, grooves of suitable depth can be made in the garden bed, or a separate hole can be scooped out under each bulb with a scoop. On large areas, the planting material is laid out on a leveled surface and then evenly covered with earth.

Bury the bulbs in the ground so that the planting depth is equal to three times the height of the bulbs - large deeper, shallow closer to the surface. If the children are planted too deeply, the bulb will form much less.

The distance between the tulips can be arbitrary, depending on your design ideas, but it is still undesirable to place the bulbs closer than 10 cm from each other, otherwise they will then grow very closely, and digging the bulbs in the summer will be difficult.

Bury the bulbs in the ground so that the planting depth is equal to three times the height of the bulb.

The planted bulbs are sprinkled with fertile soil and the plantings are mulched with peat or humus to protect the plants from frost. Additional planting shelter for the winter is usually not required. You can find out in detail about the rest in the article on our website.

Tulip growing technology - what is important to consider?

In the spring, as the snow melts, they rake the mulch from the flower bed and gently loosen the earth. Further, it will be useful to apply a nitrogen-containing fertilizer for better growth and the development of the green part of plants. In the future, during the entire growing season, do not forget to regularly loosen the soil and regularly water the garden bed. But remember that tulips should not be flooded too much - any stagnation of moisture threatens with decay of the roots.

When your flowers show their first shoots in the spring, see if all the bulbs have sprouted and do all the shoots look healthy? If signs of disease are found on some of the stems, they should be immediately dug up and destroyed. Non-sprouted bulbs can also be dug up without pity.

You can not be afraid of spring morning frosts, since tulips, even with the appearance of buds, calmly endure a short-term drop in temperature to -4 degrees. And as soon as the weather is good, the plants continue their development.

When your flowers show their first shoots in the spring, see if all the bulbs have sprouted and if all the shoots look healthy.

Tulips are very fond of fertilizing with fertilizers:

a lot of benefits will be brought by the introduction of complex fertilization during the unfolding of the second or third leaf in tulip sprouts;
before flowering, be sure to feed the tulips with phosphorus and potassium so that the buds are formed beautiful and large;
complex mineral fertilizer will be useful even during the blooming of flowers;
fertilizers containing chlorine cannot be used for tulips;
it is more convenient and safer to apply top dressing in the form aqueous solutions during watering, before or immediately after rain on wet ground.

Ready-made complex fertilizers are good because they contain the most important trace elements for tulips in an optimal ratio: boron, manganese, molybdenum, cobalt, zinc, sulfur, copper, iron, magnesium (while there is no chlorine harmful to tulips). A deficiency in any of these micronutrients can adversely affect the development and health of tulips.

So, with a lack of boron, molybdenum or zinc, tulips can develop chlorosis, the stems will be weak, if there is not enough sulfur in the soil, the leaves of tulips become light green or completely turn white, and from a lack of iron they turn yellow. A severe lack of magnesium leads to the fact that the edges and tips of tulip leaves begin to bend and die off, the bulbs of such plants will no longer be suitable for forcing.

Video about the cultivation, care and reproduction of tulips

When the plants are finished, continue for a while if you expect to harvest good, large bulbs for the next generation of beautiful flowers. In this case, it is recommended to break off the blossoming buds together with the pedicels - all the plant's forces will go to the formation of bulbs, and not to the development of the seed pod. Just do not pick off the leaves, otherwise the yield of the bulbs will decrease several times.

The stems of tulips are left in the flowerbed until they turn yellow, until the bulbs are ripe. And if you do not like the way a garden looks like with withered "stubs" of tulips, think in advance which plants can cover the unsightly picture. Another option is to grow tulips outdoors in special baskets or containers, which can be dug out of the garden immediately after flowering and transferred to a more inconspicuous place for growing the bulbs.

It is difficult to find a dacha where tulips do not bloom in spring. As soon as the bright sun warms up and the snow begins to melt, the sharp arrows of tulips begin to stretch upward.

After a month and a half, their flowering fascinates with its proud beauty.

Growing tulips at home is not difficult at all, if you adhere to some completely simple rules... Tulips, like many bulbs, can be grown both in a flower bed and in a greenhouse. Let's consider both options.

Growing tulips outdoors

To grow outdoors beautiful tulips, it is very important to create favorable conditions for them not only in spring, during flowering, but also in summer, when the bulb ripens, and in autumn, when it is planted in the ground. If the tulip cultivation technology is violated, at least at one of these stages, quality flowering may not be obtained.

Planting tulips in the ground

In mid-September, the bulbs are planted in the ground. Tulips are allocated a sunny area, protected from cold winds. The best soil for them is considered to be sandy loam, slightly acidic or neutral soil. Do not plant tulips in places where groundwater is close. Stagnant water leads to disease and decay of the bulbs.

To plant the bulbs in the flower bed, make rows 18-20 cm deep. The distance between the planted bulbs is 30 cm. Superphosphate is poured at the bottom of the rows. The onions are laid out with their bottom down, lightly pressed into the soil and sprinkled with earth on top. If the winters in your area are frosty, planting tulips is mulched on top with peat or humus.

Conditions for growing tulips in spring

As soon as the snow begins to melt, and the sharp tips of tulip leaves begin to hatch, to strengthen their "health" they make the first fertilizing with mineral fertilizers right on the snow.

Loosening the soil around the tulips is carried out very carefully so as not to damage either the bulb or the roots.

Active work is also underway underground: the mother bulb grows, daughter bulbs are formed, grandchild bulbs are laid. For all these changes, the plant needs a lot of energy, which can be provided by nutrients and moisture.

In order to obtain well-formed bulbs for further flower cultivation, the plants continue to be watered for two weeks after flowering.

Withered flowers must be removed, since the forming seed pod can provoke the disintegration of the mother bulb into small daughter ones.

In June, as soon as the leaves turn yellow, the tulip bulbs are removed from the ground and laid out in the shade. Particles of soil are removed from dried onions and placed in cardboard boxes or paper bags. They must be signed, indicating the grade and date. At the end of September, tulip bulbs are planted in a flower garden.

Technology for growing tulips in a greenhouse

Scientists have studied the formation and development of a tulip and the effect of temperature on this process. All this knowledge made it possible to create a technology for growing tulips by a certain date.

The flower in the bulb begins to develop when the temperature fluctuates between 2 and 25 degrees Celsius. Leaves are laid at 17 degrees. If the temperature is not higher than 13 degrees Celsius, the flower will form too slowly and grow too frail. For forcing tulips, the optimum temperature is from 1 to 20 degrees Celsius.

To get tulips in bloom by early March, the bulbs are planted in the greenhouse in early December. In containers with prepared soil, and the requirements for it are the same as for tulips planted in open ground, the bulbs are planted at a distance of 10 cm from each other. Planting depth is about 15 cm.

After planting, the soil is thoroughly watered. For rooting, boxes with bulbs must be kept at a temperature of 9 degrees for 4-5 months. It depends on the type of tulip and the date by which you want to receive the flowers. While the bulbs are cooling, they should be watered twice a week. Bring them into the greenhouse when the leaves reach 5 cm in length. Three weeks before the required date, the temperature in the greenhouse must be raised to 18 degrees.

Conditions for growing tulips in a greenhouse

For tulips to grow normally in the greenhouse, a high humidity level must be maintained. To do this, sprinkle the floor and walls with water 2-3 times a week.

Growing tulips from seeds

During flowering, tulips are pollinated. As a result of pollination, a triangular capsule appears in which the seeds ripen. After the petals fall off, the peduncle is tied up so that it does not break, and the seeds can ripen. When the capsule bursts, the ripe seeds are collected and stored in a dark, dry place.

In September, seeds are sown in soil consisting of humus, river sand and garden soil. They are sown densely and covered with a layer of 2-3 cm. Seeds can be planted in open ground or in a container. If the temperature drops below 5 degrees of frost, the planting must be insulated.

In the first year, seedlings grow from the seeds, similar to a seedling onion - with one tubular leaf.

In the second year, a real wide leaf grows out of it. In the third year, a bulb is formed, which can already give a peduncle. It is better to remove the flower so as not to weaken the bulb. Only in the fourth year they receive high-quality planting material.

Growing tulips at home

If you do not have a summer cottage, you can grow tulips at home on a balcony or loggia.

In September, the bulbs are planted quite tightly in a container with pre-prepared soil. There must be drain holes in the container. The depth of the container must be at least 25 cm.

The composition of the soil is the same as for growing tulips in a greenhouse. Occasionally the soil is watered. In late autumn, before the onset of frost, the container with the planted bulbs is insulated by wrapping it in a blanket. In March, when severe frosts have passed, the shelter is removed, the soil is watered abundantly.

As soon as the sprouts appear, the plants are fertilized with a complex fertilizer, as when growing in open ground. Containers with tulips are placed in partial shade so that the soil does not dry out too quickly.

Highly simple technology growing tulips in a container will make your balcony bright and elegant.

Tulips are beautiful flowers of spring that will not disregard any person, these flowers conquer with their varied colors, various forms and a huge number of varieties, which will allow each person to choose according to their taste. Growing tulips in the open field is not a difficult task, both for professionals in their field and for amateur gardeners, all because tulips are not picky flowers, but in order to achieve an excellent result and a good harvest, you need to know the little subtleties in growing beautiful flowers in open ground.

Correct selection of bulbs for planting

In order for tulips to be endowed with generous flowering, the first step is to choose the right bulbs for planting. The advantage should be given to young, medium-sized bulbs, which will have a golden color, their husks will be thin and always free from damage.

Do not plant bulbs that have a dark brown color and thick scales, otherwise the probability that the roots will not germinate is reduced to 95%.

Bulbs for planting should be purchased only from reliable sellers, or grown by yourself to be sure of high-quality planting material that will bring abundant flowering.

Tulip care and soil preparation before planting

Outdoor tulip care and cultivation consists of two stages:

Top dressing;
Watering.

Before planting tulips outdoors, be sure to prepare the soil, there are several tips for this:

Choose a land plot with fertile land on which water will not stagnate;
Carefully dig up the area on which the landing will be carried out;
Be sure to feed the land with fertilizers, preferably phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium.

So, phosphorus has a good effect on the development of the root system, potassium helps to protect against diseases, nitrogen is necessary so that flowering does not slow down, there are large buds and new bulbs form. In order to achieve success in growing tulips outdoors, you should feed the flowers 3 times:

Before boarding;
The moment the buds appear;
During the period of increased flowering and the emergence of new bulbs.

The following microelements also play an important role in the formation of the root system, buds, and stems: molybdenum, manganese, iron, and chlorophyll. It is when these trace elements are used that tulips will receive sufficient nutrition, root system will develop better, thanks to chlorophyll, the leaves will be well colored green.

When growing and nursing tulips in the open field, watering is mandatory, since these flowers have an underdeveloped root system. Watering depends on the weather, it is important not to overdo it so that water does not stagnate in the soil, otherwise the bulb and roots will begin to rot and as a result the flowers will die. To achieve the desired result in growing tulips in the open field, it is necessary to observe the plants, and specifically watering, there are two important steps that cannot be missed:

At the moment of bud formation, since it is at this stage, if the tulip is thirsty, the flowers as a result will be small and stunted;
At the time of abundant flowering, if not watered during this period, the tulips will quickly fade.

Planting tulips outdoors

You can grow tulips in open ground: in autumn and spring, if planting is carried out in spring, then flowers will ripen later than when planting in autumn. Be sure to keep the bulbs in a light solution of manganese for 120 minutes before planting, only then plant them without drying them, so you will disinfect them.

The main conditions for planting tulips that must be adhered to in order to have a decent result:

First, small bulbs should be planted first before the frost begins, preferably in mid-September, when the ground is still warm and the temperature is + 15, and then large bulbs at a temperature of at least + 10, so that the bulbs have time to take root. It will take about 3 weeks for the bulbs to take root;
Secondly, the distance between the bulbs should be 10 - 12 cm so that the plants are not cramped, and if you do not plan to dig up the bulbs annually, then it is necessary to plant at a distance of 20 - 25 cm between the bulbs;
Thirdly, an individual hole must be dug for each bulb;
Fourthly, small bulbs must be planted closer to the surface of the earth, and large ones, on the contrary, deeper;
Fifth, after planting the bulbs, the soil must be covered with mulch, thus, it will protect the soil from low temperatures and freezing of the soil.

Diseases and pests of tulips

Tulips, like all flowers, are exposed to diseases and pests, of the most threatening are viral and fungal diseases:

Tobacco necrosis;
Variegated Virus.

Of fungal diseases, tobacco necrosis is dangerous, it manifests itself as follows: stripes of dark color appear on the leaves, the stem is bent, the leaves dry out and crack. The flower is infected with "tobacco necrosis" with spores of the fungus, which is located on the roots of other plants, tulip bulbs are also infected, and as a result, the flower dies and infects others in a chain reaction. The bulb of necrosis-infected tobacco has characteristic dark red depressed spots. Such a disease cannot be treated, therefore it is necessary to dig up and burn the bulb and flower, and disinfect the wells with a strong solution of potassium permanganate.

To avoid the disease of tulips grown in the open field, it is necessary to carefully examine each bulb individually when planting, discard damaged and diseased ones, and then burn them so as not to infect healthy bulbs and soil.

Bulb care after flowering

In order to grow large bulbs for further sale or planting next year, after the tulips have faded, take care of them, it is necessary to cut the sprinkled flowers before the boll is formed, and also when cutting the stems, it is necessary to leave a few leaves, so all the forces will go to normal nutrition and bulb formation.

The bloom of tulips heralds the triumph of spring. If the site is decorated with tulips year after year, planting and caring in the open field is the key to this success. Perennial bulbous plants native to Asia have long been the subject of admiration both in their homeland and in the Old World, where they got in the middle of the 16th century.

Thanks to the general love for these flowers, a hundred years later, Holland began to be called the country of tulips, and today tens of thousands of varieties of these spectacular, but quite affordable plants are distributed around the world.

Dates of planting tulips in the ground

Tulips of cultivars bloom in spring or in the first half of summer. Therefore, the optimal planting time is autumn. In 3-4 weeks, the bulbs acclimate and form the root system, but do not form the aerial part. This allows the tulips to winter well, and with the arrival of warmth, give strong foliage and open large corollas.

When determining the date of planting tulips, it is important not to be mistaken! If the bulbs enter the soil too early, they can produce foliage. And the coming winter will take the plants by surprise. The aboveground part will freeze, the underground part will weaken and will not be able to guarantee spring flowering. Late planting threatens that tulips will not have time to take root, severe frosts will kill or spoil them.

How to choose the best time? When to plant tulips in the ground in different regions?

Experienced flower growers advise to pay attention not to the calendar, but to the weather outside the window. The best start for plants is to plant in soil that has cooled to 10–12 ° C.

In the middle lane, such conditions develop by mid-September. To the south, tulips are planted later, to the north, the dates are shifted to the end of August.

If, for some reason, tulips did not hit the flower beds in the fall, you can plant them in the spring. Unfortunately, in this case, the plants have less time to prepare for flowering and accumulate nutrients for the next year. To get the desired result and to simplify the care of tulips in the open field, it is better to germinate the bulbs in filled with a loose nutritious substrate before planting. Before planting, the bulbs are cooled for 24 hours in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator.

Tulips are transferred to flower beds when it gets warmer and the soil warms up to +15 ° C. This method can be used in all regions, including areas where tulips outdoors do not survive the winter.

Planting tulips for outdoor cultivation

To bloom brightly, garden tulips require:

sun or transparent partial shade;
nutritious, necessarily loose soil with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction;
wind protection;
moderate.

A site suitable for growing tulips is dug up on a full bayonet, loosened, breaking clods, weeds are selected and nitrogen and, for example, humus and wood ash are introduced. Dense, heavy soil is mixed with sand, peat.

Under tulips, as well as under other bulbous crops, you should not add fresh organic matter, which is often a source of bacterial rot and fungal diseases.

The depth of the open field furrows depends on the size of the bulbs. Therefore, they are pre-sorted, at the same time separating sick and damaged specimens. And healthy ones are immersed in a dense pink solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour and thoroughly dried.

Under adult large bulbs, furrows are made with a depth of 20 to 30 cm, pouring a 10-centimeter drainage cushion of coarse sand on the bottom. The children are planted, slightly pressing, into the holes with the same drainage, but half as small, that is, to a depth of 7-10 cm. When the soil is leveled, the site.

Caring for tulips after planting in open ground

Tulips will only react to constant and competent care with massive disclosure. bright colors... Bulbous crops, as a rule, are unpretentious, but still require attention from the appearance of the first leaves until late autumn. Caring for tulips after planting includes:

watering, especially plentiful during a set of buds, mass flowering and within 2 weeks after its completion;
removal of weeds around plantings;
careful not to damage the root system and bulbs, loosening;
triple feeding of flowers.

After watering, the soil under the plants should be moist at a depth of 30–40 cm, that is, at least 10–40 liters of water should be consumed per square meter, depending on the type of soil.

Fertilizers in liquid or granular form are part of post-planting tulip care. They are brought in three times:

In the phase of the appearance of the first shoots, using a mixture of 2 parts, 2 parts of phosphorus salts, 1 part of potassium compounds;
By the time the green buds appear, feeding the plants with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 1: 2: 2;
After flowering, using potassium-phosphorus formulations, completely abandoning nitrogen.

Talking about caring for tulips, we must not forget about a simple but useful procedure. When the flowers wither, they are cut out along with the peduncles. This will prevent the bulbs from wasting energy that is precious for the growth of the bulbs.

If boxes with seeds are formed and ripen on the stems, there is no need to wait for large bulbs, and the children will not be able to gain significant mass.

Before growing tulips, you need to know that a culture can be in one place for no more than 4 years. Then the risk of accumulation of dangerous bacteria, fungi and soil pests increases, the bulbs naturally age and require replanting. The bulbs remaining in the soil gradually go deeper, so the next year it is more difficult for the sprouts to break through to the surface. As a result, the flowers become smaller, the peduncles become weaker and shorter.

Dig when the leaves completely wither and fall off. It is useful to shed the freed area with a solution of phytosporin, potassium permanganate or any available fungicide. Plants that remain in the soil for the winter are mulched with peat, sawdust or covered with spruce branches to avoid freezing.

Video about the correct planting of tulips

Blooming tulips with a fragrant delicate scent create a magnificent sight, and given the undemanding care, endurance and rapid reproduction of perennials, they put this culture among the most versatile and demanded among flower growers.

This article describes in detail not only the features of growing tulips in the open field, but also presents their varietal variety, with a description and photo of tulips. We can say with confidence that even a novice florist can pick up a variety and grow tulips in his flower bed. All you need is desire, a little patience, and the result will not be long in coming.

Flowers tulips, description

The birthplace of tulips is considered to be Central Asia, where the flower got its name due to the similarity with the headdress of the people of the East "turban". For the first time they began to cultivate this culture in the XI century, in Persia. It is believed that tulips were first introduced to Europe in the 16th century, in the Vienna Gardens. Soon, the flowers came to Holland, where they began to flourish. In those days, speculation with the bulbs of these beautiful flowers reached, at times, fabulous proportions.

It was only in the 17th century that tulips came to Ukraine and Russia, where wealthy people grew them. In the 19th century, many countries began to actively cultivate tulips of various varieties, but Holland is still considered the leader in the cultivation of this floral crop on an industrial scale. For example, the country annually exports more than 600 million planting material - tulip bulbs.

Tulip (Latin Túlipa) is a representative of perennial bulbous plants from the Liliaceae family. Refers to herbaceous plants- ephemeroids, that is, those that have a short growing season at the most favorable time for them.

Exactly in early spring these perennials impress with their beautiful flowers: large, correct, often single. There are also multiflorous varieties of tulips, where from 2 to 12 flowers are collected. Both simple types of tulips and full (terry) tulips are known. The color of the inflorescences is striking in a variety of tones: from snow-white, yellow-orange, purple to dark red, purple and purple-black. The shape of the flowers also varies and can be cupped, goblet, oval, peony, star-shaped and others.

The fruit of tulips is a triangular box with flat seeds. Development of an adult tulip from seed takes 3 to 7 years.

The root of the tulip is presented in the form of a bulb. The outer surface of the bottom of the bulb is covered with adventitious roots that die off by the end of the growing season. Tulip bulbs are capable of forming hollow stolons - altered underground stems on which daughter bulbs are formed. Every year there is a change of generations of bulbs, when young bulbs appear in place of the faded ones.

The perennial stem is erect and cylindrical, growing in height from 10 to 90 cm, depending on the species. The leaves of tulips are fleshy, smooth and wide, with a bluish waxy tint.

Garden tulips have more than 80 species and about 10 thousand varieties.

Tulip varieties

Due to the huge varietal variety, a certain classification of tulips was approved and a register of their varieties was drawn up. This classification assumes division into 4 groups, in which 15 more classes are distinguished. The classification is based on the difference in the timing of flowering of tulips, the shape, color of flowers and other distinctive features.

I group "Early flowering tulips"

The group is represented by varieties with the earliest flowering dates, which begins in early May and lasts about 15-30 days. Tulips in a group are undersized, perfectly amenable to forcing.

1 class

Simple early tulips: the stem is low, the peduncle is stable (25-40 cm), the flower is large, has a goblet or cupped shape, bright red and yellow flowers... Suitable for early forcing and planting in pots.
Varieties: Golden Olga, Golden Harvest, Ibis Mon Tresor, Demeter, Cooler Cardinal.

2nd grade

Terry early tulips: stem height no more than 30-35 cm; fluffy double flowers, warm shades(red, yellow, orange), bloom for a long time. The plant is actively cultivated as a pot culture.

Varieties: Electra, Madame Test, Murillo, Shunord.

II group "Mid-flowering tulips"

The most common, among flower growers, is a group of classic tulips of medium flowering time. The wide range of colors, the large size of the flowers and the strength of the tall stems make it possible to actively use these varieties for cutting. Tulips reproduce easily: in July, the mother's bulb is actively overgrown with a mass of children.

Grade 3

Tulips of the Triumph series: sturdy and tall peduncles, reaching a height of 40 to 70 cm. Flowers are large, cupped or goblet, of various colors (from white to dark purple).

Varieties: Crater, Golden Eddy, Snowstar.

4th grade

Darwin's hybrids: the height of the peduncles varies from 60 to 90 cm, large inflorescences, as a rule, are colored deep red. Varieties of other shades of red, even two-color ones, have also been bred. They are distinguished by their endurance and the ability to reproduce intensively. Plants are excellent material for cutting and forcing.
Varieties: Big Chief, Apeldoorn, Vivex.

III group "Late flowering tulips"

The group contains the most exotic varieties of tulips late dates flowering.

Grade 5

Simple late tulips: strong, tall (60-80 cm) varieties, have large flowers with blunt petals. The color of the inflorescences is rich in a palette of various shades: from snow-white to coal-black, from light pink to deep burgundy. There are also two or three color varieties. They practice cutting and late forcing.

Varieties: Georgette, Dillenburg, Bacchus.

6th grade

Lily-colored tulips: unusual, elongated goblet-shaped flowers with bent sharp petals outwardly resemble a lily flower, the height of the peduncle is about 40-70 cm, the color of the inflorescences is varied and multicolored. Plants are used for cutting, and small species for late forcing.
Varieties: Red Shine, White Triumphant, Gisella.

7th grade

Fringed Tulips: Large bowls of flowers are decorated with needle-like fringes around the edges of the petals. Fringe can be of the same tone as the petals or have a contrasting color. The unique decorative qualities of fringed tulips are unusual, exclusive varieties. The color of the inflorescences varies: from white and yellow to chocolate and purple. The plant reaches a height of 50-80 cm. Fringed flowers retain their freshness for a long time, which predetermined their use as a crop for cutting.

Varieties: Exotic, Maya, Burgundy Lace.

8th grade

Green tulips: The backs of the petals have a distinctive green shading. Unusual flowers have a strong peduncle and are actively grown in gardens, parks, lawns,
suitable for cutting. Average height of tulips: from 30 to 60 cm.

Varieties: Samurai, Hollywood, Artist.

Grade 9

Rembrandt tulips: have a complex color of petals, as if applied by an artist's brush. The flowers are large, with strokes on a white, red or yellow background. The height of the peduncle reaches 40-70 cm. The class is widely used for planting in the open field and for cutting.

Varieties: Black Boy, Montgomery, Pierrette.

Grade 10

Parrot Tulips: A variety of tulips with flowers that resemble brightly colored parrots. Along the edge, the petals are wavy and indented, and the petals themselves are folded and corrugated. The flowers are large, decorative, when opened, they reach about 20 cm in diameter. The shades of the petals are very versatile (black, white, red and others). The plant has tall and strong peduncles, easy to cut.

Varieties: Discovery, Black Parrot, Fantasy.

Grade 11

Terry late tulips: plant up to 50 cm high, striking with incomparable flowering. Often, peduncles cannot support the weight of bright peony flowers of various colors, and break. Used for forcing and cutting.

Varieties: Livingston, Eros, Nice.

IV group "Tulips species and botanical"

These hybrid tulip species are especially beautiful. They are characterized by a variegated leaf color, large buds, low peduncles. This group of tulips is frost-resistant and can be easily grown outdoors, even in harsh winters.

Grade 12

Kaufman tulips: undersized (15-25 cm) varieties of early flowering. The flowers are large, elongated, and when opened, form a kind of "star". Varieties of various colors, more often two-colored. The leaves are distinguished by purple blotches.

Varieties: Diamond, Lady Rose Orange Boy, Crown.

Grade 13

Foster's tulips: large flowers, slightly elongated (up to 15 cm) at short peduncle in 30-50 cm. Inflorescences are painted in bright red and red-orange tones, there are yellow and pink varieties. The leaves are slightly wavy with rare purple touches.

Varieties: Zombie, Patient, Copenhagen.

Grade 14

Greig tulips: low-growing class (20-30 cm) with large flowers, the petals of which are slightly bent back. Shades of red inflorescences, speckled leaves. Popular in landscape design.

Varieties: Zampa, Plaisir, Yellow Down.

Grade 15

Botanical tulips: wild, usually short, early flowering and varied in color.

Varieties: tulip Schrenck, Gesner.

Interesting fact

The crowning triumph of breeders can be called the black tulip, the breeding of which took about 400 thousand dollars and many years ... The appearance of this type of tulip dates back to 1986 and owes to the Danish breeder Gert Hagemann.

How to choose a tulip variety?

The choice of a particular type of flower depends on the timing of flowering, external characteristics and the intended planting site (open ground, greenhouse or pot).

So, for planting tulips in pots, they are better suited undersized varieties, and for growing in a flower bed or in a greenhouse - any.

Florists select for their site the best varieties tulips with different flowering periods: from early flowering to late crops. Thus, a picturesque picture of continuous flowering of different varieties of tulips from April to early June is created on the site.

Planting tulips

It is not at all difficult to plant the tulips you like on your site, but, for a successful result, you must follow certain rules of agricultural technology.

Selection and preparation of bulbs

It is better to buy tulip bulbs in advance, before the start of the planting season, preferably from the end of July to September. This is because quality bulbs will be more difficult to find during planting season. In the spring, they often sell old bulbs from last season.

When choosing bulbs, preference should be given to whole, undamaged specimens, with a thin golden skin (small shallow cracks are allowed).

If the bulb is too large, with dark brown thick scales, it will be difficult for the roots to germinate. It is better to choose young, healthy, medium-sized, bulbs, free of mold and other defects. However, it is important to take into account that large bulbs are highly reproductive.

When buying, you need to check the bottom of the bulb. On a quality product, root tubercles are visible, from which roots will subsequently sprout. You do not need to purchase bulbs with soft bottoms, sprouted roots or rot.

Tulip bulbs can be bought both in garden stores and online stores. Planting material purchased on the market does not guarantee varietal compliance and, as a rule, does not have a quality certificate, although it attracts with a low price.

Purchased tulip bulbs are stored in a cool room before planting, separately from others (diseased bulbs can infect healthy ones).

Before planting, the bulbs must be carefully examined to identify and remove contaminated material. The bulbs are sorted out, cleaned of excess husk and disinfected for half an hour in a 0.5% manganese solution.

Landing time and dates

In their natural environment, tulips grow in the steppes and mountainous regions of Central Asia. In the spring they turn into real flowering carpets, and with the onset of heat they fade. The bulbs continue to develop and deepen in the soil. In autumn, young roots appear, and in spring, after winter dormancy, tulips bloom again.

When is the best time to plant tulips?

Planting tulips in autumn

Autumn is the best time to plant tulips. Planting time also depends on the growing region, its microclimate.

In the regions of the middle lane, the bulbs are planted in mid-September. And in the southern regions, the dates are shifted until early October. The approximate temperature for planting the bulbs is + 10 ° C.

Bulb roots take about 3-4 weeks to form. Therefore, when landing, you should take into account the upcoming weather conditions.

If tulips are planted too early, the rooting process is delayed and there is a risk of Fusarium infestation on the bulbs. Also, in warm weather, the bulbs can germinate in the fall, and the frosts that have come will destroy them.

Planting too late is also not desirable. Due to low temperatures, the root system may not develop, and the bulbs will be more susceptible to rotting or freezing. Retained, with damaged bulbs, tulips do not bloom well and are not suitable for further planting. Therefore, in case of late planting, you need to cover the site for the winter with sawdust or foliage.

Planting tulips in spring

Tulips planted in spring are slightly behind in development and bloom much later than those planted in autumn.

In order to speed up the flowering process, before planting, the bulbs are left in the refrigerator for a day, after which they are washed with a solution of potassium permanganate and then planted in open ground. Such manipulations must be carried out before April, when it finally gets warmer. If, however, frosts are still expected during this period, the tulip bulbs are first planted in a special container, and only when a stable positive temperature is reached, they are planted on the site.

Site selection and site preparation for tulips

When choosing a seat, preference is given to good illuminated, protected from drafts and wind, site.
A too humid area with a close location of groundwater is not suitable. Excessive moisture and stagnation moisture can lead to rotting of the bulbs.
The development of tulips also depends on soil selection... The culture prefers loose, fertile and well-drained soil. Loams and sandy loams enriched with humus are ideal. The plant loves a neutral and slightly alkaline soil environment.
In the spring, organic fertilizers(rotted manure, wood ash or compost). Prepare the soil 1-2 weeks before planting, adding 5-6 kg of rotted manure, 2-3 kg of peat and 50 g of nitrophoska per m2.

Agrotechnics of planting tulips

When planting tulips, special furrows or separate holes are made, depending on the method of planting and placement in the garden.
The bulb is pressed into the bottom of the furrow or hole and sprinkled with earth.
Planting depth is on average 10-15 cm (consider the triple height of the bulb), and depends on the size of the bulbs and the type of soil. On light soils, they are planted deeper than on heavy ones. Small bulbs are children, they are buried in the ground only 5-7 cm. If you plant the bulb very deeply, then there will be much fewer daughter bulbs on it.
The row spacing is kept about 20 cm, between the bulbs - 10 cm.
You can also use plastic baskets to plant tulips. The bulbs are neatly laid out on its bottom, thus placing them in the prepared hole and sprinkling them with earth on top. So, flower bulbs are not lost in the ground, and they can be dug up at any time.
After planting tulips, you need to water the area and, in order to avoid cracking the soil, it is advisable to mulch it with peat or sawdust.

Features of growing and caring for tulips

In order for the abundant flowering of tulips to please others for the longest possible time, it is necessary to provide the plant proper care... Tulips are an unpretentious crop that needs minimal attention from a grower.

Watering

The tulip is a moisture-loving plant, but its short roots are not able to independently absorb moisture from the deep layers of the soil.

This means that timely watering of plants - important condition agricultural technology. The frequency and amount of watering is regulated depending on the soil composition and weather conditions. It is enough to make sure that the soil does not dry out.

The main condition is to provide generous and systematic watering during the period of budding and flowering of tulips. Watering during flowering will noticeably increase its duration. It is necessary to water the plant for several weeks after the end of flowering.

The crop should be watered at the root, avoiding contact with the leaves, which can lead to sunburn.

Top dressing and fertilization

During life cycle several tulips are made top dressing:

- at the beginning of emergence;

- during the period of bud formation and flowering;

- after flowering.

The first application of fertilizer - nitrogen, is carried out at the emergence of seedlings. Nitrogen fertilization stimulates tulip growth.
The next feeding is carried out during budding and directly in the flowering process. Introduce comprehensive mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium.
For the third time, tulips are fertilized with potassium and phosphorus immediately after flowering, at the rate of 30-35 g / m². Boron and zinc can also be added to enhance the development of daughter bulbs.

Tulips prepared for winter forcing need to provide sufficient calcium and magnesium in the soil.

Tulips love wood ash, which alkalizes the soil, enriching it with valuable minerals.

Weeding and loosening the soil

In a flowerbed with tulips, loosening is carried out regularly, especially after watering, in order to avoid dry crusts and cracking of the soil. This agrotechnical method helps to preserve moisture and enrich the soil with oxygen. It is also imperative to delete on time weeds... Soil mulching is a great alternative to weeding and loosening.

Diseases and pests of tulips

The greatest harm to tulips is caused by different types rot, fusarium and viral disease - variegation.

Tulips can become infected fungal diseases- gray, white, soft, root, wet rot, especially in rainy spring. Such preventive measures are important: good soil drainage and compliance with the necessary agrotechnical requirements when planting and storing planting material. When infected, tulips are treated with a fungicide and transplanted to a new location. On defeat gray mold, small yellowish-brown spots appear on the leaves. Prevention of gray rot will be sprinkling the bulbs with sulfur or etching them with a TMTD solution. On the seedlings, spraying with 1% Bordeaux mixture or 1% euporene is carried out. If brown spots appear on the roots of tulips, the plant is infected. root rot.
The disease - fusarium, spreads through the soil. Signs of damage: slow growth of the culture, reduction of bulbs in volume. Treating the soil with special chemicals helps to fight fusarium.

Signs viral disease — variegated are light green or light stripes (strokes) on the leaves, buds and petals. There is no cure as such, therefore, the affected plants, along with a lump of earth, are destroyed, and the resulting hole is poured with a strong solution of potassium permanganate. As a preventive measure, before cutting each flower, you need to disinfect the secateurs.

Of the pests for tulips, bears, root onion mites, purple scoops, snails, slugs and mouse-like rodents are dangerous.

In the fight against onion mite apply heat treatment of the bulbs, lowering them in boiling water for 3-5 minutes. Having found a pest during the growing season, tulips are sprayed with 2% solution of keltan or rogor. If all of the above methods are ineffective, the tulips are destroyed.
For bears, slugs and snails traps can be used: rags, pieces of planks or slate, under which pests like to crawl, are straightened on the site, after which they collect and destroy insects every day.
For extermination bear, jars of water are buried in the ground (not to the very top). When the insect falls into the water, it can no longer get out of the trap.
Regarding rodents, they often use mousetraps or process tulip bulbs with iron lead or kerosene. To scare off mice, daffodils and hazel grouses are planted on the site next to the tulips, the bulbs of which are poisonous to rodents. In the fight against rodents, they also use poison, which is buried next to the tulips.

Caring for tulip bulbs

The life cycle of tulips is as follows: in the summer, after flowering and wilting (usually in July), the bulbs are dug out to preserve until autumn. In September-October, they are again planted in the ground, where they spend the winter. In spring, bulbs sprout, tulips bloom. In summer, when the leaves turn yellow and begin to dry, the process is repeated again.

When should you dig up tulips?

It is important to dig up tulip bulbs in a timely manner!

Digging them up too early, for example immediately after flowering, reduces the bulbs' reproductive capacity. Late harvesting with waterlogged soil, threatens cracking of the bulbs.

The bulbs are harvested with a shovel while simultaneously loosening the soil. Small bulbs are separated from the mother and dried in a dry place.

Why dig up tulip bulbs?

Given the susceptibility of plant bulbs to various diseases, pest attacks, negative impact moisture or temperature fluctuations, tulip bulbs should be dug up and sorted annually. If this is not done, then every year the bulbs will go deeper into the soil, the flowers will be crushed, the stems will become thinner. The mother bulb will form less and less daughter bulbs, reducing the natural reproduction process. In addition, remaining in the soil in summer, the bulbs are more susceptible to infection with various diseases.

How to store bulbs correctly?

After the end of the growing season of the plant (the leaves begin to dry out, the stem becomes elastic), the bulbs are dug out, the soil and excess husk are cleaned off, leaving for storage in dark and ventilated place... During the storage period, the temperature is lowered every month from the initial 25 ° C to 16 ° C.

Planting material can also be stored in special plastic mesh containers with mesh bottom or in ordinary cardboard boxes. Good aeration will help keep the bulbs dry and prevent any disease infestation.

Caring for tulips after flowering

So that the tulips do not waste energy on the formation of seeds, but increase the mass of the bulbs, the withered flowers are immediately cut off, leaving only the leaves. The more leaves remain, the more nutrients the bulb will be able to receive.

After the end of the flowering of tulips, one must not completely forget about the plant: it needs additional feeding with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers and regular, gradually decreasing in volume, watering for a couple of weeks.

Preparing tulips for winter

Before the onset of frost, in order to protect the bulbs from frost, the beds are mulched with peat or sawdust in a layer of 5-7 cm. Early flowering tulip varieties are especially susceptible to low temperatures, need additional cover with spruce branches.

In the spring, after the snow melts, the shelter and mulch are removed from the ridges, the ground will warm up faster, and the tulips will bloom earlier.

Propagation of tulips

Tulips reproduce by seeds and vegetatively, with the help of daughter bulbs.

Seed propagation is practiced by breeders in order to develop new varieties, since the daughter plant does not retain the varietal characteristics of the parent individuals. Such tulips bloom only after 5-6 years, and at first the flowers will be inconspicuous, and only at 8-12 years the peak of decorativeness comes.

Reproduction daughter bulbs- the simplest and easiest way, in which the varietal characteristics of tulips are fully preserved. The smallest tulip bulbs are separated and planted in a separate bed in the fall, and covered for the winter. They are grown for 1-2 years to get large, full-fledged specimens. They are dug up every summer, just like adult flowering bulbs.

Transplanting tulips

Tulips grow in one place for 3-4 years on average. Rare varieties need to be transplanted annually to preserve valuable varietal characteristics.

Compliance with all the rules of agricultural technology allows you to maximize the time for growing a crop in one place.

If tulips develop well and bloom profusely, they do not need to be replanted. Only in the case of inhibited growth, deformation in the development of buds or petals, in the presence of signs of a disease - the plant requires a transplant.

The use of tulips in landscape design

Easy to care for, of various colors and shapes - tulips are one of the most common and favorite flowers for both ordinary people and professional flower growers.

The culture is widely used in the design of flower beds, mixborders, rockeries, planted in vases and pots. Tulips look wonderful in separate groups and in combination with other plants.

The variety of shades and shapes of tulip inflorescences allows you to make various spectacular color compositions. They are planted along the sidewalk path or just on a decorative flower bed - the tulip looks great in any variation.

Tulips are also used for forcing or for cutting. Cut tulips keep fresh in water for up to 2 weeks and give a wonderful spring mood others. A subtle delicate aroma only enhances the overall pleasant impression. Truly, "tulips", "delight" and "holiday" have become synonyms of modern life.

The color palette of tulips flowers is very diverse and multifaceted. Shades of white and black, yellow and scarlet, purple and pink are impressive and delightful. Flowers selected varieties sometimes they seem fabulous and extravagant (parrot, lily-colored, double, green-flowered).

Within the framework of one variety, tulips bloom very amicably. Therefore, in the park area, plants are often planted in groups, areas in order to maximize their decorative value, allowing you to admire those around this unforgettable sight.

Tulips are harmoniously combined with other spring bulbs: daffodils, irises, hyacinths, forest trees.

Tulips look especially gentle and original in garden flowerpots and fancy pots.

Now, having familiarized himself with the secrets of growing tulips, everyone can grow these beautiful flowers, which are rightfully considered a real decoration. garden plot or balcony. A freshly cut bouquet will give a lot of positive emotions and impressions.

Tulips are associated with the arrival of spring and the onset of a new gardening season. It is impossible to imagine the holidays on March 8, St. Valentine is without these beautiful flowers that can give spring warmth and a sea of good mood.

Without a doubt, the time of tulips is a bright and unforgettable period of real impressions and positive emotions!