Budget drainage systems for the site and storm sewers from portal users. Drainage pipes: we lay it ourselves Drainage laying technology

Building a house is a responsible and very costly event. Naturally, any owner wants the erected building to serve as long as possible. And for this it is necessary to protect the foundation of the house from the destructive action of soil waters, that is, to build drainage. Consider how the styling is done drainage pipes do it yourself, what materials are used for this, and what nuances you need to consider when doing this work.

The construction of drainage seems to many to be an optional event. In fact, protection from soil water is very important. Properly constructed drainage helps to avoid dampness in the basement and prevent deterioration of the materials from which the foundation of the house is built.

In addition, a drainage device may be needed on personal plot or in the country, if high-lying waters interfere with the growth of trees and shrubs. Consider the main points of the construction of drainage systems.

Before describing the construction technology, it is worth understanding what drainage is and in what cases its construction is necessary. So, drainage is a pipe system that is used to drain soil water from the foundation of a building, as well as to drain the site. In what cases is it necessary to build drainage?

• If a building is being built that will have a basement.
• If the site is initially swampy, or it has heavy and poorly water-permeable soils.
• If you plan to make changes to the natural topography of the site, level the sites, build artificial hills, etc.

Where to begin?

First of all, it is necessary to find out how deep the soil water is. This can be done by examining the water level in nearby wells. The well, which is dug to a depth of 5-15 meters, is filled just to the level groundwater... In addition, from the footprints on the concrete walls of the well, you can understand how high the water rises during the flood period.

Advice! The ideal solution for determining the level of soil water occurrence is a geodetic examination by a specialist.

Next, you need to decide on the type of drainage. The easiest way, of course, is to build an open drainage, that is, just dig trenches with a slope. However, such a solution will not decorate the site, so most owners choose the more time-consuming construction option.

We select materials for construction

Today there are more convenient and available materials – corrugated pipes from polymeric materials that already have a ready-made perforation.

The main advantages of using plastic pipes

• Corrugated pipes are characterized by increased strength, they can be laid to a considerable depth - up to 10 meters.
• The service life of polymer pipes is at least 50 years.
• Plastic pipe connections are easy to make yourself using couplings
• The pipes are easy to transport, unload and install, as they are quite lightweight.
• To cut plastic pipes, you do not need to use a special tool.

Advice! To prevent clogging of pipes with soil particles, additional filters are used - geotexil or material from coconut fiber.

Installation of drainage systems

Consider how the drainage is installed, and what are the nuances of pipe laying.

Planning

At the first stage, a scheme for laying drainage pipes should be drawn up. In performing this work, a preliminary geodetic examination of the site will be very helpful, as a result of which the types of soil and the level of location of groundwater will be clarified. Based on the results of the examination, the diameters of the pipes, as well as the depth of their laying, are selected.

Advice! Drawing up a drainage scheme and making calculations should preferably be entrusted to specialists.

Pipe laying

• A layer of sand 15 cm high is poured into the trenches dug to the required depth.
• Geotextile is laid on top of the sand so that the edges of the canvas cover the sides of the ditch.
• A layer of fine gravel is poured onto the geotextile.
• Pipes are laid on top of the crushed stone with perforations down.
• When laying pipes, the slope towards the collection well must be maintained. Slope size - not less than 3 degrees
• In order to be able to monitor the operation of the system and, if necessary, flush it, it is necessary to plan the installation of inspection wells. The minimum distance between wells is 50 meters. In addition, wells should be installed at the places where the pipeline turns or when the angle of its inclination is changed.
• The choice of the filter for the pipe is carried out depending on the type of soil. If it is light sandy loam or loam, then it is worth using pipes wrapped in geotextiles. In heavy soils, it is more advantageous to use pipes wrapped in a coir cloth.
• Crushed stone is poured over the laid pipes, as a rule, the thickness of the upper filling is 40 cm.
• Above, the layer of rubble is covered with geotextile, which was previously fixed on the sides of the trench.
• From above, the trenches are covered with soil and covered with sod cut out in advance.

Mistakes not to be allowed

• Incorrect selection of pipes. For example, in loamy soils, pipes cannot be used without a filter.
• Unstable slope of pipes.
• Wrong choice of location for the installation of the collection well or untimely removal of water from it.

So, the drainage system is a necessary element to protect the house and the site from excess soil moisture. When installing drainage, it is extremely important to correctly develop its scheme and carry out laying in strict accordance with the technology. Errors made during installation will lead to the fact that the water from the foundation will not be drained in full, that is, the efficiency of the system will be reduced.

And now for a shorter but succinct guide to the proper laying of drainage pipes:

Drainage pipes are laid in trenches 0.7-1.6 m deep, expanding upward at an angle of 10-20 °; the width of their bottom is 30-40 cm. If it is known that water will flow to the drainage pipe only from above and from the sides, the pipe wrapped in geotextile can be placed immediately at the bottom of the trench. Although, to level the surface and create the desired slope, a sand cushion is often made. If the drainage pipe collects water from all sides, a return filter must be poured under it, consisting of a layer of sand (5-10 cm) and a layer of rubble (5 cm). Sometimes the return filter is built only from sand. Its task is to trap small dusty and clay particles that can clog the drain pipe. There is less water flowing from the bottom than from the side and top, so the return filter should not be too thick. On it (or immediately to the bottom, as in the first case), a drainage pipe is laid, surrounded by a volume filter - some kind of protective filtering material: geotextile of a certain density or coconut fiber.

Filters for drainage pipes are selected depending on the type of soil. In "harsh" conditions, when pipes are buried in clay soils, a coir filter works best. Several foreign companies, for example Wavin, Uponor, supply pipes already wrapped in coconut filter material. Their cost is about two to three times higher than the cost of similar drainage pipes without filters. For light loam and sandy loam (lighter soils, with a lower content of clay particles), bulk geotextiles are used. This is a fairly thick (2-4 mm) non-woven or needle-punched material weighing 250-450 g / m2. Its filtering capacity is lower than that of coconut fiber. On sandy soils, you can use fine filters, fiberglass and other similar materials weighing 150-250 g / m2.

The drainage pipe wrapped in a filter is covered with rubble approximately 1 / 3-1 / 4 of the depth of the trench. Now, for filling, they take crushed stone of the middle fraction (about 20-40 mm), while theoretically it is more intelligent to do this: the first layer is crushed stone of a large fraction (40-70 mm), the second layer is the middle fraction, the third is fine (less than 20 mm). Typically, the thickness of the upper backfill is about 40 cm.The minimum layer capable of providing an optimal mode of water penetration into the drainage pipe is 20 cm.A layer of geotextile is laid on top of the crushed stone to prevent mixing of crushed stone and bulk materials located above - sand (layer 5-10 cm thick) and fertile soil (15-20 cm). To make the system work more reliably, a volumetric crushed stone filter is sometimes also placed in protective cover from geofabric, the cost of which is about 30 rubles. for 1 m2. These costs are often justified when compared to the cost of maintaining the system. Sometimes the pipe itself is not wrapped in geotextile in this case, however, such a system will clog up faster and the likelihood of the formation of silt plugs in it is higher.

The depth of the trenches and, accordingly, the occurrence of drainage pipes depends on the type of soil, the level of groundwater and what will grow in the drained area. For mineral soils, the optimal depth of trenches is from 60-80 to 120-150 cm. Please note that a groundwater level of 60-80 cm is quite acceptable for lawns and flower beds, about 90 cm - for forest trees, 120-150 cm - for fruit trees trees. When draining, the groundwater will be established at a level of approximately 0.7-0.9 of the depth of the drainage pipes. By the way, according to experts, for the free development of an apple tree, this depth should be 2-2.5 m, cherries and plums - 1.5-2 m, berry bushes (currants, gooseberries, raspberries) - 1-1.5 m. in peat soils, all trenches should be slightly deeper - 100-160 cm, since peat continuously "sits down" throughout its "life". This is due to three reasons: the surface settles over the drainage pipe; a layer settles under the drainage pipe; peat decomposes into substances that become water-soluble and washed out.

The depth of the drainage pipes is determined taking into account one more factor - the location of the aquiclude. This is the name of the layer of impermeable rocks that limit the aquifer. If the aquiclude is located close to the surface of the earth (for example, at a depth of 70 cm), then the pipe is laid to a depth of no more than this distance. Water will come to it only from the side and from above. To the drainage pipe, which lies inside the aquifer, water flows from all sides - of course, if there are perforations around the entire circumference of the pipe. An example of impervious horizons is heavy loamy and clayey soils with a low filtration coefficient: water passes through them very poorly or does not pass at all. An example of aquifers is sandy and sandy loam.

The minimum slope of the drainage pipes required for normal water flow is 0.003, that is, 3 mm per 1 m of length. In practice, however, it is increased to 0.005. If the natural slope of the soil is significant, then it can reach 0.01-0.02. However, it is not recommended to make a large slope - the water should leave smoothly and evenly. Drainage should always be carried out taking into account the relief, so as not to argue with nature.

The spacing of the drainage pipes depends on the type of soil. On heavy soils, clay and loamy, pipes are placed more often: at a distance of 4-5 to 12-15 m from each other. On light soils, sandy loam and sand, - less often, after 20-30 m. On average, it is believed that a drainage pipe 1 m long drains an area of ​​10-20 m2. To drain sports and playgrounds, the gap between the pipes is halved. Do not plant trees closer than 2 m to the right and left of the drain pipe. Bushes (for example, lilacs) are recommended to be planted, maintaining a distance of 1 m.

High groundwater is a serious obstacle not only for successful housekeeping on the site, but also for safe living, because excess moisture heats buildings and provokes their deformation. There is only one way to avoid such troubles - by organizing. And for this you need to deal with the main elements of the system - drainage pipes. Today, corrugated perforated versions of these products are most often used, which we will talk about: how to choose, why reinforce with geotextile, how to do styling with your own hands - then we will talk about this not only in theory, but also with video.

Selection of corrugated pipes

Corrugated drainage pipes are distinguished by a wide variety of species, therefore, so that you can successfully select products for your system, we will figure out by what criteria they are classified and what are their fundamental differences.

According to the material of manufacture, two types of corrugated pipes are distinguished:

1. Polyethylene - made of polyethylene low pressure, thanks to which, despite its affordable price, are characterized by durability and resistance to impurities of ground and rain water.
2. Polyvinyl chloride pipes are highly reliable and durable pipes, almost the only drawback of which is their high cost.

Pipe for drainage system

The most important characteristic of drainage pipes is the type of perforation. It can be either partial or complete, executed along the circumference. The second option is preferable - such pipes are characterized by higher rigidity.

Advice. For efficient operation of the system, select perforated pipes with a diameter of holes in the walls of at least 5 mm.

The diameter of the corrugated drainage pipes can be presented in four variants: 63 mm, 110 mm, 160 m and 200 mm. The most popular by right are lines with a diameter of 110 mm - they guarantee the passage of 7 liters of liquid in 1 second and have a relatively low weight, therefore, are easy to install.

The next factor, which in no case should be ignored, is the strength of the pipes. This parameter is selected depending on the expected depth of laying drainage lines: for trenches up to 2 m deep, pipes of strength class SN 4-2 are suitable; for a depth of 2-3 m - SN6; for depths over 4 m - SN8.

Geofabric functions

Another criterion for the classification of drainage mains - the presence or absence of geotextile - will be considered separately, since it requires a more detailed study. So why are pipes reinforced with geotextile and is it possible to do without it?

If the system is set up in an area with rubble soil, you can safely use standard pipes without geotextile, since here the risk of clogging the drainage with silt, sand and other dirt is reduced. But on all other types of soil, especially on sandy, loamy and clayey, one simply cannot do without filtering material, otherwise, on the inner walls of the highways, a rapid accumulation of dirt cannot be avoided, which will provoke a significant decrease in their performance.

The use of geotextile as a drainage filter is due to a whole range of its advantages:

• resistance to decay;
• elasticity - does not break even with increased mechanical stress;
• strength - the material is not afraid of insects and rodents;

Geotextile prevents dirt from entering the drainage system

• resistance to chemical compositions dissolved in water;
• long service life - up to 25 years.

Now is the time to consider how to properly lay corrugated perforated pipes with geotextile - we will divide the installation process into two stages.

Stage 1: Preparation and organization of the water intake

The arrangement of the drainage system begins with the preparation of the main installation materials - pipes and geotextile. To calculate the required footage of materials, first determine where the highways will pass, and carry out a working marking of the site.

Next, proceed to create a water intake. should be located in the lowest area of ​​the site to ensure rapid movement of the liquid to the receiver. In the role of a well, you can use any container made of a material that does not react with water and its impurities: concrete, plastic, galvanized steel. Select the dimensions of the container depending on the area of ​​the area to be drained and the level of its moisture content.

Important! The well must be sealed and have a cover.

The water intake well is buried in the ground - for this, a suitable hole must be dug in the intended place and secured with a sand-crushed stone pillow. If the container is very large, you can additionally fill in a shallow cement foundation for its stability.

Drainage installation

To prevent the well from overflowing and flooding the site, you need to think over a water disposal system. There are several options here: the liquid can be discharged into a storm sewer or to an open drain, or it can be used for various economic and technical needs.

Stage 2: Digging trenches and laying pipes

At this stage, all work on the organization of the drainage system must be performed according to a clear algorithm:

• Dig trenches along the marked area, taking into account the level of soil freezing. As a rule, even in the highest zone of the site, a depth of 40-60 cm is sufficient. Closer to the well, all trenches must be connected into one, which will lead to the receiving tank.

Important! Trenches should have a bottom slope of 5-10 degrees towards the water intake.

• Place a sand cushion no more than 10 cm at the bottom of the trenches and tamp it down. Correct the slope of the trench if necessary.
• Lay geofabric on the sand. Bring its edges onto the walls of the trench, which subsequently covered all layers of drainage.
• Pour a layer of rubble onto the geofabric. Nai the best way medium fraction granite crushed stone is suitable - it is resistant to erosion.
• Start laying the prepared corrugated drainage pipes on the crushed stone. Connect individual sections of the lines by means of adapters and tees. Connect the side elements to the central pipe that goes to the water intake. If the area to be drained is very large, install inspection chambers every 50 m along the main line - they will facilitate the procedure for servicing the drainage system. Choose plastic wells with lattice covers - they are the easiest to install and use.
• After completing the pipe laying, backfill them with another layer of rubble and cover them with the left edges of the geotextile.
• Fill the trenches with a mixture of sand and soil.

Without a doubt, corrugated perforated pipes in combination with geotextile are one of the most effective options for arranging a drainage system in an area with high groundwater. Such pipes are reliable, durable and, as you can see, are relatively easy to install, so it is quite possible to handle the installation of the system with your own hands, if you first study all the above subtleties of the process.

How to choose a drainage pipe: video

Drainage pipes: photo

Building a house is not only a costly undertaking, but also a very responsible one. Any owner of his home wants the building to serve as long as possible. For this, the foundation must be protected from the destructive effects of groundwater by equipping a drainage system. These works should be approached seriously, having determined the type of soil on the ground and deciding what diameter the pipe to be laid should have. It may have ready-made water holes.

To many, this work may seem unnecessary. But in reality, protection from soil water is extremely important. If the drainage is built correctly, it will avoid dampness in the basement and exclude the destruction of materials at the base of the foundation. Among other things, drainage is often necessary in a country house or personal plot, where groundwater is high, which interferes with the growth of shrubs and trees.

Where to start

Before you start laying, you need to find out how deep the groundwater is. This can be done by studying the water level in nearby wells. The well, dug to a depth of 5 to 15 m, is filled up to the groundwater level. Among other things, the marks on the walls of the well can be used to determine how high the water rises during the flood period.

The ideal solution that will help determine how deeply the soil water is poured is to conduct a geodetic examination. However, this approach will not decorate the site, so the owners quite often choose a more time-consuming construction process.

Choosing a place to install a drainage system

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine where on the site you will install the drainage system. There are two options for this:

• wall drainage;
• drainage along the perimeter of the site.

The first type of drainage takes place only near the foundation of the building and excludes the ingress of water inside. As for the drainage system along the perimeter of the site, it is necessary to protect the basement of buildings and other outbuildings, as well as plantings on the territory.

Choice of materials

The laying of the drainage pipe is accompanied by the use of some other materials. About three decades ago, there was no choice of pipes, so they had to use ceramic or asbestos-cement products, many holes were made in them before laying in the ground, where water penetrated. Today there are more affordable and convenient materials - corrugated polymer pipes, which have ready-made perforations.

Before laying the drainage pipe, you can purchase special products with geotextiles or coconut fibers. These materials guarantee filtration and prevent clogging of the system. The process of arranging the latter requires labor and preparation of the material. Before starting work, you should prepare:

• sand;
• crushed stone;
• geotextile;
• fitting.

To create a drainage system, you will need river sand. With its help, a pillow is set up at the bottom of the ditch. This will eliminate damage to the structure due to soil movements. To carry out the manipulations on laying the drainage pipe, two should be prepared.One of them should have an average, while the other should large fraction... The main purpose of crushed stone is to create a filtering layer. In addition, it helps prevent debris in the water from getting inside.

Crushed stone eliminates damage to drainage pipes during soil movements. Geotextiles are made from synthetic fibers. It turns into a drainage layer of rubble. This material protects the pipes from siltation. But to connect the latter, you need fittings. Couplings will help ensure that the system can be rotated.

Why choose plastic pipes

Plastic pipes should be chosen for the arrangement for the reason that they are highly durable. They can be laid to an impressive depth - up to 10 m. Polymer products are ready to serve for a long time - up to 50 years and more. Their connection can be done quite simply using special couplings. The pipes do not have to be installed using special equipment, since they weigh a little. Moreover, transportation and unloading are simplified.

Before laying the drainage pipes with your own hands, you do not have to purchase an additional tool to cut the products, because this can be done with improvised devices. In order to exclude clogging of pipes with soil particles, it is imperative to use filters, without neglecting this step.

For the systems described, pipes of different diameters will be needed, but 150-mm and 300-mm products are most often used. The first ones are for diverting a small volume of water, but the second ones are for systems that are operated under increased load. For installation, you can use pipes of a larger section, they form the basis of the main line. A smaller section is used for branches.

Pipe-laying features: planning

If you decide to lay the drainage pipe yourself, the technology must be studied. At the first stage, it involves planning - drawing up a laying scheme. In this work, a geodetic examination will help, as a result of which it will be possible to find out what type of soil is on the territory, as well as how deep the groundwater is located. The data obtained will make it possible to understand what pipe diameter to choose, as well as to what depth to lay them.

Installation work

Before laying the pipe, you should prepare a ditch for it. To do this, a trench is dug, at the bottom of which a 15-cm layer of sand is poured. The surface is covered with geotextiles so that the edges of the canvas cover the sides of the ditch. Next comes a layer of fine gravel. On top of it, which should be turned down.

During installation, it is necessary to maintain a slope, which will be directed towards the collection well. The slope options are 3 ° or more. Laying drainage pipes with geotextiles provides for inspection wells, which are needed to flush the system. These nodes will also be needed to control the drainage. There should be a minimum distance of 50 m between the wells. The wells should be located in those places where there will be pipeline turns or changes in the angle of inclination.

A filter is selected depending on the type of soil. If you have to work on light sandy loam or in loam, then pipes wrapped in geotextiles should be used. In the presence of heavy soils on the territory, it is better to prefer pipes previously wrapped in a canvas of coconut fiber.

Crushed stone is poured over the pipes, the thickness of the upper backfill layer is usually 40 cm. The crushed stone layer is covered with geotextile, which at the previous stage was fixed on the sides of the trench. From above, the system should be covered with soil and covered with the sod cut out earlier.

How to avoid mistakes

Before laying the drainage pipe in the ditch, you should familiarize yourself with the rules that will help eliminate mistakes. For example, in loamy soils, pipes cannot be used without a filter. It is important to ensure their bias. If the location for installing the collection well is chosen incorrectly, then this can be considered a mistake, as well as the untimely removal of water from it.

How deep to lay the drains

Before starting work, it is important to determine the depth of the drainage pipes. It will depend on several factors. One of the important conditions for determining the installation depth is the soil freezing line. This condition must be met so that the pipe does not freeze and is in working order during a flood. The freezing depth depends on the type of soil, as well as climatic conditions... For example, slightly less sandy ones freeze through, because they have greater porosity.

With regard to climatic conditions, the average annual temperature determines the depth of freezing: the lower it is, the greater the depth. Thus, laying in Arkhangelsk must be carried out taking into account the normative freezing depth of 160 cm for loamy and clayey soils. As for sandy loam and sands, in such soils the standard freezing depth is 176 cm. In Kazan, the first value is 160 cm, while the second is 176 cm, respectively. For Orenburg, the depth of soil freezing with the above-mentioned soils is 160 cm and 176 cm, respectively. In St. Petersburg, clay freezes by 120 cm, while sand and sandy loam - by 132 cm.

Conclusion

The rules for laying the drainage pipe say: the depth of soil freezing in fact differs from the standard. After all, the norms are given for the coldest case. Thus, the data mentioned above is the maximum depth of soil freezing. Usually in winter, ice and snow lie on the soil, which act as good heat insulators.

Another important condition is the observance of the recommendation: it is necessary to lay pipes 50 cm deeper than the lower mark of the foundation of the building, near which the drainage will take place. This is to ensure that the groundwater is intercepted by the drainage system until it reaches the level of the base of the building.

The increased humidity of the site is always a source of big problems for the owners. Moistened soil destroys plants - due to insufficient oxygen supply, roots rot and almost the entire crop is destroyed. The buildings do not feel in the best way either. The foundations are damp, water appears in the basements in the spring, the walls are covered with a network of cracks and colonies of fungus.

Excess moisture can be easily removed using special engineering structures known as. The owners should pay attention to the arrangement of the drainage system, first of all, immediately after the acquisition of the site. And preferably before large-scale construction works if any are planned.

How and why does drainage work?

An artificially constructed watercourse is a system of underground pipelines and surface channels for collecting water. Moisture enters special containers, and then is removed outside the site.

Drainage can be carried out both into natural reservoirs and city sewers.

It is possible to determine whether the site needs draining by indirect signs. The high moisture content of the soil is evidenced by:

• the presence of moisture-loving plants (for example, nettle);
• heating of cellars and basements;
• long drying of the site after rain (large puddles remain, from which water does not leave well).

But even in the absence of such alarming signs, buildings are not insured against water damage. For example, during the period of heavy rains or during the active melting of snow. For this reason, experts recommend in any case to install and equip storm drains.

The main advantage of this type of drainage systems is the elimination of expensive treatment facilities and other technical units. A complete system consists of:

• from drainage pipes;
• storm drains (gutters and storm water inlets);
• sand traps - special mechanical filters at the inlet to the collector of the system;
• common drainage wells;
• a collector with a check valve (from here, water is discharged into the ground or reservoir).

How to choose pipes

The main element of the system is the pipeline. For this reason, special attention is paid to the selection of pipes or drains, as they are often called. Experts recommend paying attention to the following technical specifications.

Material

Manufacturers offer products made of asbestos cement, polyethylene (with perforation) and polyvinyl chloride (perforation can be done by hand). Asbestos cement is the cheapest material. However, there are big doubts about its environmental safety. Therefore, an increasing number of buyers are opting for durable plastic products.

Ready-made perforated drains are realized in a geotextile wrap. Cheaper PVC pipes require additional processing - cuts are made in a checkerboard pattern up to 5 mm wide. Processing is carried out on both sides. The distance between the cuts is 50 centimeters. Additionally, you will need to purchase geotextile for wrapping the pipe before laying it in the ground. The fabric serves as a filter and prevents liquid dirt from clogging the perforated pipes.

Diameter

The diameter is chosen depending on the amount of groundwater and precipitation.

Usually the diameter is 5 to 8 centimeters.

Soil type

Soil type is one of the most important parameters when choosing pipes:

• In soils with a high content of crushed stone, products with perforation are laid, but without a geotextile filter.
• In sandstones, geotextile wrap and perforated pipes are used. Additionally, it is recommended to make sprinkling of crushed stone to prevent deformation of the pipeline.
• Perforated products with a filter made of coconut fiber are mounted in it. A cheaper option is to use geotextile. A crushed stone backfill must be made, covering the pipeline by 15-20 centimeters.
• For loam, perforated pipes wrapped in geotextiles are used.

In any soil, you can also use ordinary PVC pipes with homemade perforation and geofabric winding. This will significantly reduce the cost of the drainage system.

Tools and materials

For work you will need:

• shovel and bayonet shovel;
• garden wheelbarrow for soil;
• manual roller for compacting sand and gravel;
• mounting knife for cutting pipes;
• drill or grinder, if you want to make incisions (perforation);
• geotextile scissors.

You should also prepare Construction Materials:

• pipes;
• adapters for manholes and collectors;
• pipe fittings;
• plastic pipes with a diameter of 30 to 50 cm for arranging inspection and drainage wells (you can also
• purchase ready-made wells with a hatch or plastic tanks);
• geofabric in rolls;
• crushed stone or gravel, sand.

Work order

Drains are laid in the following order:

1. trenches are dug along the marking line, their depth should be below the freezing point of the soil;
2. a plan is drawn up and markings are carried out on the ground;
3. a layer of sand up to 10 centimeters thick is poured onto the bottom and carefully compacted with a roller;
4. crushed stone or gravel is laid on top (layer thickness 20 cm);
5. pipes are laid on the prepared pillow;
6. the system is mounted using couplings, and then the angle of inclination of the pipes towards the collectors is checked;
7. inspection wells are arranged at the joints and turns of the pipes (a piece is cut off plastic pipe, a protective cover is mounted);
8. backfilling is performed - a layer of crushed stone, sand, soil is laid out sequentially;
9. can be sod or sowed on top herbaceous plants;
10. at the end of the outlet pipe after the collector is mounted check valve or a well is arranged to collect water (a sealed plastic tank is used).

Highlights when laying

The drainage system must comply with technical requirements... Amateur activities in this matter are not encouraged. For this reason, owners should pay attention to some important points:

• To carry out the work, it will be necessary to create a vertical plan of the site, taking into account the occurrence of groundwater in a particular area. Specialists will help to compose it for a fee.
• The exact depth of the pipeline is calculated, its diameter and type. At this stage, you will also need the help of specialists.
• When digging a trench, you need to make sure that its size is about 40 centimeters larger than the diameter of the pipes used. The slope of the trench is from three degrees (from 0.5 to 1 meter of slope).
• Inspection wells are located no closer than fifty meters from each other.
• Installing a non-return valve or arranging a water collector - required condition correct functioning of the entire system.

Typical mistakes

The most common mistakes when arranging a drainage system are as follows:

• shallow trench depth (reduced system efficiency and increased risk of freezing of drains in winter period);
• the use of pipes of the wrong type and diameter (leads to a rapid failure of the system);
• lack of an angle of inclination or a small angle (the work of the system is paralyzed at maximum load).

Installation of a drainage system is a job that the owners of the house can do. However, it is better to entrust the drawing up of the plan and carrying out all the necessary calculations.

Also, special attention is paid to compliance with all technical standards ... Selection of pipes, depth and angle of their laying are important points installation works.

Maintenance

Even a properly installed and well-functioning drainage system requires regular Maintenance... Drainage and inspection wells are inspected once or twice a year. The owners should be alerted by the low water level, which may indicate:

1.
2.
3.
4.

Water can be not only a source of life for plants, but also the cause of their death, provided there is an excess of moisture. Also a large number of drains on a personal plot can destroy the foundation of buildings located on it. Therefore, it is so important to equip a drainage system that will drain excess fluid from the site. To do this, you will need to lay drainage pipes with your own hands, if a decision is made to complete this work on one's own. It is not difficult to install the drainage system.

Why do you need drainage

Before enjoying outdoor recreation, the owner of a land plot needs to make a lot of efforts to improve it. A large number of land plots outside the city limits are characterized by waterlogged soil.

If during the construction of the house you do not provide for the arrangement of the drainage structure, then in the future there is a high probability that you will have to solve the problem with the destruction of the foundation and the improvement of the local area.

To get rid of excess moisture on the site, a drainage structure is created, which is an artificially laid water runoff in the soil, consisting of a system of canals or pipelines. Once in them, water moves to the side of specially equipped storage wells and reservoirs, or is discharged outside the adjacent territory.

In practice, the site owner should be alerted to a number of signs of the presence excess moisture, which indicate the need to equip drainage:

• there are a large number of moisture-loving plants on the site;
• periodic appearance or constant presence in basements and cellars of buildings of groundwater;
• the formation of poorly drying puddles after rain.

But as practice shows, the absence of the above signs does not mean that there are no problems with waterlogging and that they will not appear in the future. The optimal solution may be to consult a specialist who will determine the degree of soil moisture in the area and the need for drainage work.

Drainage system options

When deciding how to lay drainage pipes, you should be aware of the existence of several ways to create drainage structures:

1. Crushed stone and sand trenches... The closed-type drainage system consists of ditches and trenches dug in the ground, which are filled with a layer of rubble, and sand is poured on top. Often, an effective design called a herringbone is used on personal plots - secondary pipelines are brought to the central highway.

   In this case, the laying of the main drainage pipe is laid with a slope directed towards the catchment. The distance between drains depends on the condition and composition of the soil. On clay soils, this is a maximum of 10 meters, on loamy soils - 20 meters, and on sandy soils - 50 meters.

2. Open drainage ditches ... This method is simple and cheap. To create drainage, grooves are dug, having a width of 50 and a depth of about 70 centimeters, placing them along the perimeter of the personal plot. The sides in the drain should be beveled at a 30-degree angle. The discharge of liquid from the drainage system is carried out into a collection drainage trench.

   A more convenient option is to use perforated plastic products or to install ready-made systems that are commercially available.

3. Systems with drainage channels... They are used in the arrangement of surface drainage, which allows drains to be diverted from the site after precipitation falls or melts. For the construction of the system, special trays are used, which are made of plastic ( modern version) or modified concrete.

   The grooves are laid from the catchment point to the discharge point with a slope of about 2-3 degrees. Drainage trays are placed in them, the sides of which should be located at ground level. When the site is located on an open-type hill, drainage grooves should be dug across the slope, due to which it is possible to intercept water flows flowing down from top to bottom.

Installation of perforated pipes

Before the installation of drainage pipes is carried out, calculations are made and building materials are selected.

For calculations, you need data on:

• seasonal groundwater level;
• soil characteristics and soil structure;
• the volume of moisture in the form of flood waters and precipitation.

All this information can be requested from the regional office of land resources. Based on the data received, specialists will make calculations and find out the required trench depth and pipe dimensions.

When laying drain pipes with your own hands, you should give preference to plastic products. The device of plastic pipes is simple - they have two layers of polyethylene or PVC, due to which the products will last at least 50 years, even if they are installed at great depths. In each case, the depth of the drainage pipe is determined according to the situation.

The double-layer construction provides self-cleaning of the inner surface and prevents pipe clogging. To prevent clogging of perforations, drainage pipes are laid with geotextiles or coconut fiber sheets, which are wrapped around them.

The procedure for laying drainage pipes with your own hands

The creation of a drainage structure begins with a marking of the territory, according to a previously drawn up scheme. Then they dig trenches with a depth that was established in the calculations. To determine their width, add 40 centimeters to the outer diameter of the pipes. Also, don't forget about 3 °.

At the bottom of the ditch, lay out a pillow of sand and gravel. The thickness of the sand layer should be 10 centimeters, it is well compacted. Then a 20-centimeter layer of crushed stone is poured.

The pipes, wrapped in geotextile, are laid on a pillow. Drainage pipes are connected using special couplings.

When the pipes are installed, their slope is checked by pulling a regular cord along the pipeline.

Inspection wells with covers are arranged in places where the highway turns and on sections with a change in the slope angle. They are necessary to control and clean the drainage system.

At the final stage, backfilling is performed - performing all actions in reverse order. On top of the pipes, crushed stone, sand and soil previously removed from the ditch are poured in layers. Sod is laid on top, if desired.

The effluent is discharged into a rain sewer or an open water body. In both cases, a check valve is installed at the end of the outlet pipes. If it is impossible to provide such a conclusion, arrange a collection well, from which, as it fills, it is necessary to pump out the collected liquid.

During the installation process, it is necessary to avoid the most common mistakes that lead to a malfunction of the drainage structure, including:

• inconsistency of the depth of the dug trench with the needs of the system, which may result in a violation of the water balance in the personal plot;
• the use of drain pipes of the wrong type should be selected. As a result, the constructed structure will quickly fail;
• Incorrect drainage slope. This leads to incorrect operation of the system, and on the ground there are serious problems with the observance of the water regime.

If the laying of drainage pipes can be done independently, then specialists should be entrusted with the calculations and drawing up the diagram. Doing enough simple work, it is necessary to follow the instructions, paying special attention to the slope of the system, to the reliability of the connection of the elements, to the correct arrangement of inspection chambers.