Stand for working with an electrolovka. Simple and convenient stand for an electrolovka

From the faults of the screwdriver, several characteristic, which are inherent in devices leading manufacturers and cheaper models:

The screwdriver does not turn on;
- During operation, extraneous shears and screens are heard;
- strong beating of the clamping cartridge;
- Not regulated by turnover;
- not switches the reverse;
- after turning off the button, the engine continues to rotate;
- The screwdriver is included on the split second and twisted.

The screwdriver device: 1 - revolve regulator, 2 - reverse, 3 - transistor of the circuit regulator screwed to the radiator, 4 - electric motor, 5 - gearbox.

About the device screwdriver read in the article.

Some parts (engine, gearbox, switch, etc.) to the most popular models, you can buy (just buy better through the online store, because In the usual store of this network, the price may be higher).

A screwdriver may not be turned on by three main reasons: the battery is faulty (not charged), the power button is defective, the engine brushes are worn or the anchor itself (very rare).

Battery. Checking the battery is carried out by simply measurement on its constant voltage terminals by any tester. The output voltage at the working charged battery must correspond to the one specified on the housing - 12V, 18V, etc. Otherwise, the battery is subject to replacement. May still be faulty charger screwdriver.

Roll controller and reverse. Checking the screwdriver turnover is made by a multimeter in circuit ring mode. It should be noted if the button is completely pressed, the contacts and voltage on the engine (for reverse) are applied directly, excluding the circuit of the revolt controller. Two wires from the battery come to the button, after it two wires through the reversal contacts are connected to the engine. The power button can still have three wires for connecting the control element (field transistor), which is made beyond the housing. For cable transversions, attach to the input and one of the engine wires (if possible, to the input reverse contacts) alternately, then the button is pressed until it stops. The device shows the presence or absence of contact, after the second input wire is measured. We translate the reverse lever and repeat the measurements. In the absence of contact, the button changes.

Repair of the screwdriver buttons are possible, but only with certain skills. It is important to understand that after opening the case, many switching details simply break out of the housing. It is possible to prevent this only to a smooth lift of the cover initially and the desired sketching of the location of the contacts and the springs. When detecting darkened contacts, they are cleaned with sandpaper. After the assembly, repeated measurements are carried out and with positive results (there is a contact), the button is set to the previous place.

Immediately, it should be noted that if, after repairing the button, the screwdriver engine earned with the button full of pressing, and with a smooth press, the revolutions adjustment does not occur, the reason should be signed in the adjustment scheme. Most screwdriver repairs in this case comes down to replacing the entire button.

In the absence of reverse, it is necessary to replace the reverse switch or try to repair it. To do this, we operate the cover of the switch and, as in the case of the button, carefully raise it. Check the contacts, clean and collect. If the contacts burned or deformed, the reverse must be replaced. There are options for buttons that have a reverse place inside the button of the button, in this case the entire button changes.

If when the button is released, the engine continues to spin, and before it did not spin, in this case it is necessary to pay attention to the revolver regulator, namely, the regulating transistor. It should be replaced or the entire button, or separately the transistor.

Electric motor. If all of the above operations showed the serviceability of the items, then it is necessary to check the status of the engine brushes. For this, the engine is disconnected from the button, and the multimeter probe is attached to the engine wires. The absence of low resistance in the chain indicates wear of the brushes, but should not be excluded and the failure of the anchor (cliff of the winding), although this happens very rarely. Usually, in this case, the engine is changed entirely, but when wearing brushes, the engine is possible to restore the screwdriver independently. Some engines can replace brushes without disassembled the engine. Others need to separate the back cover of the engine with brushes from the engine housing.

To do this, you need to beat the lid rolling, but with such a calculation so that the edges are not broken, as they need to be returned to the place after the assembly. The flexible wire brushes is connected to the holder using point welding, but the wires in new brushes can be soldered, but only a refractory solder, for example, Poshe 60. Before assembling the engine, the brushes are discharged in the brush-container with a thin wire hometomb, the cover is installed in place and the wires are pulled out, thereby free brushes are released. Next, you should heal the edges of the case to close the back cover tightly.

Outsiders and screenshots during the operation of the screwdriver can be caused by the wear of the anchor sleeves or a broken magnet, which comes into contact with the anchor. In the first case, you can extend the service life of the engine, if you drop the oil droplet for accurate devices on the sleeve, and then turn on the engine so that the oil is separated by the bushings itself. In this way, you can only extend the life of the engine, but over time you will still have to replace it.

Reducer. From the long work of the screwdriver under large loads and with lateral pressing, the shaft of the gearbox is curved, to which the cartridge rotates, a strong beating occurs during the operation of the screwdriver. The reference sleeve or the bearing of this shaft can also be caught. If only the sleeve or bearing is damaged, and the shaft is not twisted, then you can try to replace only worn items.

It may happen that the engine runs on the split second and stops sharply. Everything points to the breakdown in the gearbox, it is usually a breakdown of the pin on which the satellite is mounted. You can try to replace the drove or the entire gearbox. The failure of the gearbox is often due to the wear of the gear teeth. Detailed description Screwdriver reducer devices.

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Today I will tell you how to make a support for the jigsaw, it is easy to manufacture and convenient to use, it can be used both when working with an electrolovik and storage. Homemade workers who often work with an electric bike, know that this tool is very uncomfortable to lay on the workbench or on the table, as and take for further work due to the foul out of the base, which can break if you put the jigscription not as needed, And also experience inconvenience when the brush has to turn to take or put a tool. However, such an idea of \u200b\u200bthe stand is not always necessary, because not everyone works with a jigsaw a large number of time, and periodically, for this reason you can suffer all inconvenience. But if the scope of work is a large or electrolovka you have a rather powerful and heavy, then it is also not always convenient to use it and easily, and this leads to increased hand-catching, which significantly reduces the quality of work.

In order to make a homemade comfortable stand we will need:
* Cut the board with a thickness of 2 cm, 14 cm wide, and 35-40 cm long.
* Four screws with presssman 4x50 mm.
* Pencil, roulette and square.
* Shilo.
* Electrollery with a fillingband for figure cut.
* Screwdriver and drill on metal with a diameter of 2.5 - 3 mm.
* Crown in a tree with a diameter of 28 mm.
* Figure Bit PH2 to twist screws.
* Wrench By 20 mm, which will help wrap and turn away the nuts of the ring saw in a tree.
* Sandpaper.

Preliminary calculations and thinking about the convenience of the product.
To begin with, it is necessary to build a drawing of the future part, do it in the program compass 3D, one is seen one of the drawing important momentIt is applied here the idea to make a wedge-shaped slot in the stand, although it would be possible to do just a direct narrow slot. And the point is that in a wedge-shaped slot, it is much more convenient and faster to start the pylon during the installation of the jigsaw to the stand, also not requiring any aiming for this. The dependence here is straight than wider in the base of the slot, the more convenient to put a jigsik. Also, if you have an unnecessarily wide at the base of a wedge, which will be wider than the jigsaw salad, then the stability of the electrolybiz will be much lower, which can cause its tipping. In this regard, it is more profitable to choose the best wayThat is, to make the width of the base of the slot so that the electrolovka is quite convenient to put on a stand without losing the reliability of its stability.

The author chose the size of the width of the base of the slot at its discretion, which was about 78 mm equal. In the realities of this, it is quite enough to conveniently put the electrolybiz on the stand, not afraid that he falls back. If you specify such an idea, then in accordance, choose the specified size in the drawings, comparing with the sled width of your electric bissing.

The next important point is the front and rear of the stand, made by a semicircle. The purpose of this form is the best aesthetic appearance, so if you want to focus on this attention, it can easily make the shape of a rectangular stand.


Well, with the main nuances we figured out, now proceed to the assembly process.
Step one.
Before taking a tool before, we need to draw the markup of the workpiece according to the drawing. Considering that the length of our future stand will be only 20 cm, then it is necessary to take a little more (by 15-20 cm), and it is done with the goal that the workpiece can be resistant to fix for further processing.

To show a pencil on the blank curved surfaces take any round item big diameter. In this case, it plastic Bank For storage of small things.


Step second.
We fix the workpiece in the clips and drink a hole in it with a ring saw or how it is called a crown, sandwiched in the cartridge of the screwdriver.


Step Three.
This stand will have special legs to be at the limiting altitude, which will not give the pubsika's letter to break about the surface, drill under these legs the deaf hole.


Step fourth.
With the help of an electric bike, we drink the drawn wedge along the contour and then drink the extra parts of the stand. Working with the electrolybik is satisfied is dangerous, so be careful and apply precautions, such as protective gloves, as well as glasses.


Pitch fifth.
Armed with sandpaper and gluify the surface to a smooth state, which should not have loops and recesses, after which the screws are tightened into the smooth surface of the workpiece, in this case they serve as legs.


On this, the homemade stand is ready, we put an electrolovka on it, and in order for the stand stood steadily, adjust the screws, which are also legs.

Today, diverse power tools are used for home repairs and work on the country site. For them, special auxiliary devices and devices are produced, many of them can be made with their own hands. Sophisticated technical devices are better to purchase ready-made, and workbenches, tables for the milling and nozzles and much more can be made independently. Homemade devices For power tools, you can adjust the required conditions.

Classification of fixture tools

They are customary to classify into the following groups:

  1. Tools and nozzles for processing. These are manual devices, which include grinding nozzles and bars for grinder and drills.
  2. Devices that are intended to change position, setting a specific cutting angle, drilling and other things. These are supporting surfaces, templates guide and so on. They can take different appearance, often made from metal or wood.
  3. Devices for dusting. Such devices are used to remove with the working surface of the sawdust, dust, chips. Such adaptations do with their own hands is not as difficult, usually already existing ventilation holes on the equipment are used for fastening.
  4. With their own hands, grinding nozzles, blocks or bars intended for surface treatment are collected. For example, for polishing wooden surface Or metal cleaning can be used a wooden plate with a handle from above. In its working side, sandpaper the necessary grainability is fastened. The form of the platform can be any, it is only important to choose the right grinding material.

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Milling tables

Fixtures for power tools are different, but sometimes they have overall dimensions, as in the case of milling machines and saws. It is recommended to collect combat tablewhich will have everything you need for comfortable and safe work. Most. simple option is an milling table, made in the form of a large board having a hole for a milling and blackboard-guide. The size of the working countertop may be different, it all depends on which work will be performed. A more perfect option is a table with legs of the required height. Working and guide boards are made from the Listel sheet. On the surface, vice, clamps, and so on can be provided. The feet for the table is best done removable, provide a spare kit.

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Workbenches for power tools

To work with many tools requires the organization of the workspace. For a home workshop or a garage, a small, compact and multifunction workshop can become an indispensable. It is not so difficult to make it, it is only necessary to determine what functions it is necessary for which functions. It is best to make a workbench that can be used at any height, including on the table.

Figure 1. Basic workbench elements.

Then the power tool can be conveniently placed, change its position if necessary. It is recommended to use any solid wood, the most popular material is maple, which is easily processed, and has the necessary hardness and durability.

For fixing on the table to the device, convenient legs or clamps can be attached.

For workbenk need vice, they are often used in work. An example of the main elements of the workbench is shown in Fig. 1.

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Shooting for a drill

For a drill during operation, a variety of nozzles may be required. They allow you to facilitate work, make it simpler, comfortable and fast. For a drill, a large number of homemade are used, which many manufacturers today have been taken as the basis for developing special sets. List of devices that can be made with your own hands, big.

Fixtures for power tools:

  1. Limiter nozzles. During repair and construction work It is required to prepare the holes of the required diameter on a strictly specified depth. It is for this that a pretty simple nozzle is used, which consists of 3-parts. It can be done with your own hands, and the parameters of the holes are easily and quickly changed if necessary. The first part of the device is a clamp for retention, it is placed directly on the tool body. Such a clamp has 2 holes, the stops are inserted in the form of a 6 mm metal rods. The rods are bent if necessary. During operation, the desired end of the drill is set to prepare holes with specified parameters.
  2. The circleses are a special device that externally resembles a large circulation. Metal rods are collected. The vertical part performs the role of stop, at its end there is a special thickening. A horizontal is mounted to the vertical part, on the one hand, a convenient handle is made, and on the other - the ring is welded. For the device, it is necessary to provide the diameter of the fastening ring so that the drill does not slip, tightly kept in it during operation. It is best to glue a rubber ring that will help make fixation more reliable.

Our portal has already talked about what opportunities open to the home master, we decided to make furniture yourself. In the article you can read about the basic principles and "tricks", which are used in the work of professional joiners and the right craftsmen.

In continuation of the topics started in this article, we tell about what tools are needed a joiner, and that from popular sets it is worth buying "on the grow".

  • Where to start choosing a tool for the manufacture of furniture;
  • Can I do high-quality furniture without a special tool;
  • What a minimum set of a good hand tool is needed novice joiner. Our rating;
  • How to choose power tools for workshop;
  • What power tools use professional chapels-climbers. The best tool from a professional point of view;
  • How to approach the arrangement of the furniture workshop;
  • What is the difference between Fuganok from the flight.

How to approach the selection of a joinery tool

Decided to solid decision - do independent manufacture Furniture. However, one desire is not enough - you need a corresponding tool. It is here that the main "underwater stone" lies.

Many beginner masters believe that without a large range of expensive and professional tools it is impossible to make high-quality furniture. The result of such a popular approach is well known. Newbie is either not solved to start work, believing that "nothing will happen to me without this device," either falls into another extreme - "runs" shopping, buying the best tool, not even understanding, and whether he needs one or another And how to use it.

However, at the initial stage, it is quite possible to do the minimum set of reliable amateur tools. The main thing is to give yourself the opportunity to consciously approach the choice, guided by the principle: buy a tool for a joinery workshop as needed.

The visual example of this approach is a bed made by the spouse of the participants of our portal with nickname Reginapiter.

Reginapiter User forumhouse.

My husband and I moved to permanent residence in the village. We needed a double bed. The spouse decided to make it certainly himself, although before that and the little hammer did not hold in his hands, and there was nothing master. The husband outlined me his vision, and I drew a bed in a special program. As a result, we stopped at this option.

Boards and balusters that went on the bed legs were bought in the nearest store building materials. Work boiled, and that's what happened at a novice wizard in the end.

The most interesting thing is that this correct bed was made with a minimal set of hand tools, and all the details were poured "taken" from the wife with a reliable garden hacksaw!

Reginapiter

You could buy a finished bed in the store, but the pleasure of work, and most importantly - the final result, which will not compare anything. Husband, what is called, entered the taste, continued to join and after the bed did hell entrance door, and then the table.

Conclusion: to start making furniture is needed from the manufacture of simple products for which the most elementary reliable tools will be required: stools, simple beds, simple tables, shelves, etc. And only after time, with an increase in skill, you can think about the acquisition of an expensive and professional tool. This can only be guaranteed that the purchase will be in demand, and will not be in vain spending.

In the "Furniture Cooker", the main thing is to "feel" the tree will learn to use the tool, understand whether you like this business. Only in this case you will create products that will be the subject of your pride.

It should also be trapped in advance what furniture you will do, case - cabinets, or entire kitchen headsets etc., or soft - sofas, armchairs. Or the soul lies more to durable urgent furniture, with an abundance of complex curved and carved elements. For each direction, you need your defined tool, but you need to start with the formation of the basic and universal set.

The most popular home joiner tools.

Tool for carpentry woodwork

To simplify the task, the whole required tool It is possible to divide into three large groups:

  1. Hand tool;
  2. Equipment and consumables;
  3. Power tools.

Let us dwell on each of these groups.

The manual tool includes:

  • Hand saw on wood and metal;
  • Handwood and foam;
  • Manual Lobzik;
  • A set of chisels on a tree;
  • Iron hammer-nail);
  • Mold with rubber or wooden brisk;
  • Furniture stapler;
  • Pliers;
  • Shoe knife;
  • Awl;
  • Adjustable key;
  • A set of screwdriver with a straight or crusted edge;
  • lubes.

Equipment and consumables:

  • Vice for workbench;
  • Clamps. They act as a "third hand", allowing you to fix items during processing or gluing;
  • Pencil and marker;
  • Drills of Forcener. Used to drill non-mediocked holes with a flat bottom (for inner loops) in a tree and slab materials: chipboard, MDF, etc. Thanks to its design, such drills do not tear the fibers of wood, leaving behind smooth surface;
  • Ring crowns on wood. Used to cut through the through round hole of a large diameter (20-130 mm) in a tree, chipboard sheets, etc.;
  • Metal drills with a diameter of 2 to 10 mm, with a pitch from 0.5 to 1 mm;
  • Harvested with a carbide tip. Used to drill concrete to hang shelves, etc.;
  • A set of bits for screwdriver;
  • The set dried on a tree, a diameter of 2 to 12 mm.

A measurement tool should be selected in a separate group.

This includes:

  • Roulette from 3 to 5 meters long;
  • Metal line with a length of 50 to 100 cm;
  • Metal coal with a 30 cm side;
  • Level 50-60 cm long.

Supplementing this set is just a shock drill and a screwdriver, a man "with hands" can make a lot. In addition to the manufacture of furniture, this tools will be used for any repair in the house or in the country.

We also do not forget about the need for workbench, because It is impossible to work normally "on the knee" and get a quality product is impossible.

SITNIKOFF user Forumhouse,
Moscow.

Furniture workshop is unthinkable without workbenk. I made my first workbench from the board 100x50 mm. The boards were "thrus" - the remaining waste at the construction site. Therefore, the workbench was not the most successful, but it still serves me as a mounting table.

Choose power tools for joinery workshop

If there is no problems with the choice of a manual tool, when it comes to choosing a power tool, a lot of questions appear. Therefore, it is important to make a basic list of the most necessary.

To the so-called Basic power tool, without which it is impossible or difficult to make furniture, belong:

  • Electric drill;
  • Electric screwdriver;
  • Electrolovik;
  • Ribbon grinder.

This set is enough to start doing and not the most difficult, but high-quality products. In the future, as skill and complication improves, the list of best tools will be replenished.

When choosing a power tool, the beginning of the master is important - do not fall to the extreme, buying only the cheapest models or chasing the expensive professional products of one high quality manufacturer. It is worth sticking to the golden mean "price / quality" and choose a tool at its cost, but such that will be convenient to use you.

Beginner Stolyarov often arises the question: whether such power tools such as a milling machine, fuganoks, flights, circular electroopers are needed in the workshop, and at what stage they must also be purchased and what to be guided when purchasing, except for the price.

Archimed. User forumhouse.

I thought about equipping my workshop. It is necessary to process boards for the walls of the walls, and in the future I plan to make furniture. With good hand tool Everything is clear, but on the use of electric a lot of questions, and it is necessary to "fit" to the budget. We need a council of specialists that I will acquire what will be needed in the future. While my rating is as follows:

  • drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • shlifmashin;
  • electrolovik;
  • electrolake;
  • disk saw;
  • manual frezer;
  • raysumovoy machine.

Theme created Archimed,caused a wide response. Many professional masters offered their options for picking workshop.

Sitnikoff User forumhouse.

When I just took up the joyar, I needed to make the simplest workbench, and I had only: a bitter saw, drill, the old planer, a few chisels, driver of the forstner and a shoe knife. Everything. But I did the workbench. Now, after 10 years, the joinery, my rating of the best tools is:

  • Milling table with a milling mill;
  • Manual frezer;
  • Tape and eccentric grinding;
  • Miter saw;
  • Desktop circular saw;
  • Several electrolabanks;
  • Electric jigsaw, electric drills and screwdrivers;
  • Dust system;
  • Grinder;
  • Compressor for a joinery workshop with a paintopult;
  • Raysumovoy machine.

This is not the entire list of power tools. Plus, I had to choose a lot of manual instrument.

And Sitnikoffstop it is not planning and thinking to get:

  • Fugansky;
  • Ribbon saw;
  • Drilling machine;
  • Turning machine on wood;
  • Mount the chip removal system and air ventilation system.

Summarizing

Answering the question set Archimed-M, It can be said that a possible set of tools of the furniture maker is directly proportional to his budget, planned volumes and complexity of work and, importantly, - the workshop area. After all, the entire tool will have to be placed somewhere - so that it is convenient to use it, and it was safe to access it, was not limited or difficult.

You can make furniture, working and on a limited area, in the apartment, on the balcony, in the corridor. But any master sooner or later comes to the need to build its own workshop. And, the workshop is competently planned, with the subordinated communications, well insulated in which you can work round year, without regard to weather conditions and the duration of the daylight.

To have a benchmark for the future and understand how you need to equip the furniture workshop "on the gross", you can use the next list. It:

  • Stationary circular saw and milling machine;
  • Miter saw;
  • Disk submersible saw with guide bus;
  • Band-saw;
  • Raysumovoy machine;
  • Stationary Fuganok.

On the last two machines should be focused, because Sometimes novice carpenters are confused in their destination.

At the Fuganka, the knife shaft is in the table, i.e. Below, so this machine sets a smooth plane - "base". The fugoval machine, unlike the flight, does not harvesting the same thickness.

Raysmus the knife is located on top, so this machine makes a plane parallel to the "base". If you run a blank with a "screw" or "hump" to the reysmus, then we will get a planed curved curve.

Therefore, first set the blank the plane (we make the "base"), removing the "screw" or "saber" by Fugansky, then we plane the workpiece into a predetermined poles.

Conclusion: to purchase an expensive, complex, professional tool should not be "about the stock", but only by going to new stage His development as a master. In other words, you buy one or another tool only when you realized that your carpentry workshop is already a small workshop and make any details for furniture without it.

When working with power tools and on machines, you need to follow safety. Namely: put on protective glasses and tight clothes, fasten the sleeves, remove the hair to the headpiece. In the joinery workshop, in the prominent place, it is necessary to the first aid kit first aid.

And what should be the workplace of the chamber of the chamber.

The garage is a multifunction room. It can be installed and repairing cars, design and produce different things and mechanisms.

If a person loves to spend time in the garage, engaged in repair work, you need to properly equip your workplace. The workbench is a multifunction desktop, on which you can process various materials, carry out a plumbing, electromechanical and mounting work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can think through the shelves and hubled to store tools and other items.

Types of workshops

The workbenches are manufactured for metal processing (plumbing) and wood (carpentry). Disassembled design with tabletop material. Fixer models, the tabletop must necessarily be metallic, since work with the metal involves the use of machine oil and other liquids that can leave traces on a wooden surface.

Also, when processing metal parts, an effort is often required, the use of a sharp tool, so the best way to equip the workbench with a metal countertop is optimal.

Joiner's workbenches are designed to work with wood, so they are not so durable and functional as plumbing models.

Workbench design

If the design of the desktop in the garage is made with your own hands, then first of all it is necessary to thoroughly think over every detail, estimate where the tools will be placed, which work will be carried out on the workbench. From this, the model of the table in the garage depends.

Standard models are often equipped with drawers, which can be made of wood or metal. Also, the design of the table can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for a suspended tool that will always be at hand. But the most important thing is the workbench should be sustainable, durable and reliable.

Tool

    Bulgarian with a circle for cutting metal and grinding disk.

    Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective devices for welding works.

  2. Screwdriver.

    Electrolovka for cutting plywood.

Materials

    Corner 50 mm per 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.

    Square pipe 60 mm per 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.

    Corner 40 mm per 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.

    Steel strip width of 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 8 m.

    Steel sheet for table top 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.

    Steel sheet for making holders for drawers. Thickness 2 mm.

    Wooden boards for table top. Thickness 50 mm.

    Plywood for making boxes and for side and rear wall walls. Thickness 15 mm

    Guides for table boxes.

    Screws for assembling boxes from plywood.

    Self-tapping screws.

    Anchor bolts.

    Paint on wood and metal.

The workbench, which will be made of these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: the length of the table is 220 cm, the width is 75 cm. The overall design and a large tabletop allow you to be placed in different ends of the table of vice and, for example, emery or other tool.

The first step of making a workbench is a cutting material on elements. Profile trumpet Designed for the manufacture of a frame. Steel corner is designed to create rigidity ribs. It is cut into parts and a force frame is formed from it. Also, the steel corner is needed for edging the countertops to which the boards will be laid.

The steel band is intended for the manufacture of the guides on which the side panels will be attached. Also, this material will go to the brackets for fastening boxes and plywood.

Table boxes are made of plywood.

The second step is welding the power frame of the workbench. The first table top elements are welded - 2 pipes with a length of 2200 mm and 2 pipes of 750 mm. The frame must be welded so that it was possible to spend another frame from the corners to be used to it, which will be stacked by the countertops. For the reinforcement, countertops are required after 40 cm. Navory some more steel pipeswhich will perform the function of the rigidity.

Then the sidelines along the edges of the workbench are welded. Their length is 900 mm. Between the legs, power jumpers strengthening the design are welded.

After the base frame is ready, you can proceed to the welding of the design for the boxes. For this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which from two sides are welded to the tabletop. Frames are enhanced by longitudinal rigids.

Third step - making frame for table top. Two steel corners, a length of 2200 mm and two more corners with a length of 750 mm, are needed for the manufacture of a frame. The design is welded so that the board of wood lay inside it.

The frame from the corner is stacked on the frame of the pipes and welded. A reinforced tabletop is obtained, 8 cm height with internal rigidity ribs.

The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, it remains to cook the panel shawl for fastening the tool. This requires one metal corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners having a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the design and two in the middle, for amplification. The toolbar is welded to the tabletop.

Frame from corners and pipes is ready. It can be proceeded to strengthen the design. Brackets are welded to the sidewalls of the table, which are cut from the steel strip. Total need 24 details. The hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. With these holes, the side and rear walls of the table from plywood will be attached to metal carcass Workbench.

The fourth stage is the manufacture of table boxes. Plywood is cut into billets that twist screws. The number of boxes depends on what will be stored in the table. If small parts, then you can build 3 drawers if large - then 2. It all depends on personal preference.

You can arrange drawers on the two sides of the table, you can mount the retractable structures on one half of the half, and on the second - the usual open shelves.

After the hubled is collected, you need to fight between the sidewalls of departments for drawers metal strips with holes. To these holes with inner Slasons will be mounted for guide boxes.

Fifth stage - laying boards in the framework of the tabletop. 50 mm thick boards are manifested on a blank defined length. If there is a long board in stock, then you need three blanks with a width of 245 mm and a length of 2190 mm. If there are no long boards in the presence, you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm width is manifested on 10 blanks of 740 mm long.

Before putting wood into the frame frame, it needs to be treated with antiseptic solution. It will save the material from rotting and damage to beetles.

Then required to paint all metal design Workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use the weather-resistant and anticarrosion coating option. Especially carefully you need to paint welding seams. Metal and irregularity drops are recommended before painting work thoroughly. This can be done using an angular grinder with a disk for metal grinding.

After the design is driving, you can start laying boards on the worktop. They should not be too tightly drove into the frame. This is due to the fact that the tree when changing the temperature and humidity has the properties to expand and dying. It is better to leave a small gap between the boards a few millimeters. The surface of the wood is required to stab, it will simplify the laying metal sheet over wood. Boards all over the perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame on the self-tapping screw.

The sixth stage is the fastening of the top steel sheet. It can be welded to the tabletop, but inside the design there is a tree, which in the welding process can ignite. Therefore, it is best to attach a steel sheet to hidden screws to wooden boards. Pre-metal is required to paint on both sides by the rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paintwork, easily restores me and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint a metal table top of that paint that the frame was covered. It will be beautiful, but with time the paint can scatter and the table will not look too new.

Last stage - installation of boxes on guides and fastening plywood on the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table.This work can be called finish finish Workbench. After working with plywood will end, it must be covered with a composition that protects material from exposure ambient. Also do not forget about the design of the power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, to which the desired things will be suspended.

In order for the workbench to work conveniently, you can attach a special lamp with a rack with a power shield. In this case, you can send the light stream at the request of the right place.

Video - Workbench manufacturing process

Installation of vice on a plumbing workbench

Thish is an indispensable attribute of a locksmith. Attach the clamping tool, weighing a few dozen kilograms to the table top it is not recommended. It is best between the metal metal and tool to place a metal gasket, 1 cm thick. In the gasket, you need to drill holes for anchor bolts. Then, in the same places, drill the same in the tabletop the same in the size of the holes. The entire design of the anchor bolts is fastened.

Safety requirements for homemade workbench design

  1. If the garage area is not too big, then you can make a table with your own hands for a smaller work. But, it is worthwing to know that the whole design should be stable, not swing and not to move from place with a slight effort.
  2. The workplace must be organized so that a person does not prevent anything. When working with vice, all unnecessary tools must be removed from the table top.
  3. Corners and protruding table details should not be too sharp and have cutting edges.
  4. After repair work Behind the workshop need to be removed the workplace from the metal chips, droplets of oil and other materials.
  5. If a homemade workbench Made correctly, it easily withstands the load of 200 kg.

Plywood for shield

Video - workbench in the garage do it yourself

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