We build scaffolding. How to make scaffolding from shaped pipes with your own hands

How to make scaffolding with your own hands - photo, video. During the construction phase, renovation works and when servicing a / private house, sometimes you have to work at height. It is not always convenient to carry out work with the help of an ordinary ladder, and sometimes it is completely impossible.

The way out of this situation is to use scaffolding with your own hands.

General information

Metal scaffolding will be many times more reliable and durable, but often such structures are made of wood, since it is cheaper. Anyone can work with wood, and all you need is nails or screws, a saw, a screwdriver, a hammer, or. As you can see, the set of tools is small and everyone can find it in their home, and if something is not there, it won't take a lot of money to buy the right tool.

Metal is more difficult in this regard. For the manufacture of metal scaffolding with your own hands you will need a certain skill, as well as a welding machine and at least a basic concept of how to properly weld the seams. For this reason, in 85% of cases, forests are made of wood.

Materials (edit)

It is clear that scaffolding (scaffolding) is needed for a short time, but production requires the use of high quality wood with a minimum number of knots. Some builders recommend making scaffolding from spruce wood, since, unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the final strength of the board. But almost no one has spruce boards, but there are more than enough pine boards.

You can also make scaffolding from them, but before that you need to check the material very carefully (at least those boards that go to the flooring and racks). To do this, you need to fold two columns (3-4 bricks on top of each other, 2 building blocks, 2 boulders and more).

When checking boards that are 3 meters long, there should be a distance of 2.5 meters between them. A board is laid on the posts, and then they stand in the middle and jump on it. If the board has weak points, it will crack or even break. If you survived, you can use it.

Now about the thickness. The choice of the thickness of the boards for the scaffolding follows from what the structure will be, the distance between the racks and the expected load. The only thing that should be noted is that boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm are most often used for flooring and racks, and boards with a thickness of 2.5-3 cm are most often used for jibs. Such boards can be used after dismantling the scaffolding in construction works if it is possible not to damage it during disassembly.

Self-tapping screws or nails

Probably, even in 100 years there will be debates about which is better - nails or self-tapping screws, but in this particular case, everything is aggravated by the fact that the work will be carried out at a height and therefore the structure must be reliable. In this case, nails will be the best option. The fact is that they are made of soft metal and under load they can bend, but not break.

In contrast, self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, which is fragile and will simply break under shock or alternating loads. This is critical for scaffolding because there are times when it has broken. But we were talking about "black" screws. There is also anodized yellow-green color, which is not so fragile and can withstand stress.

If you are seriously concerned about reliability, it is best to use DIY scaffolding nails. But they are not liked due to the fact that at the end of the work, it is impossible to disassemble the connection without loss and it does not work out quickly, since the wood will be damaged.

When working independently, do this - collect everything on anodized self-tapping screws. If the design turns out to be correct and convenient, play it safe by driving a couple of nails into each joint. In order to prevent the wood from being damaged in the future, you can put trims of thin boards under the nails, and on a long span you can use whole boards, but with a small thickness. When disassembling, you will be able to split them and remove the nails easily.

Design features

For different types work will require a different type of scaffold and scaffolding. When working with lightweight materials, a high load-bearing capacity is not required. In this case, you can make an attached scaffold or an envelope structure. For finishing gables or just exterior decoration of a one-story low house, it is permissible to use construction goats, and flooring is laid on their crossbars. If nothing can be supported on the walls, trestles with floorboards placed on the joists can be used.

For styling brick walls or building blocks, finishing the facade with stone or brick, full-fledged scaffolding will be required. Timber scaffolding can be made more rigid by using braces and stops.

As a rule, such structures are not attached to the walls, but fixed on stops that will support the racks. Let's talk about each species separately.

Attachable scaffolding

The design gets its name from the fact that they are simply leaned against, rather than fastened. They are held at the expense of the stop. The more you load these scaffoldings, the stronger they will stand. There are two types of construction, which are made in the shape of the letter "L", but they are deployed in different directions.

In the first figure, a reliable and simple construction scaffolds. Their only drawback is that they cannot be adjusted in height. It will be convenient to hem the roof overhang, clean or install the drain, in general, all works that do not have a large variation in height. Some were even able to adapt such a scaffold to build a house from a bar. It will be convenient to lift or roll logs along the edges of the stops. They are quite reliable, as they can withstand a log of 11 meters and three people in addition.

The second picture shows Armenian scaffolding or envelope scaffolding. This design is also reliable and simple, although at first glance you cannot tell. Yet it has been tested by thousands of people who have used them in construction. These are attractive ones that require a minimum amount building materials, and it is possible to assemble / disassemble / transport in a few minutes. The main thing is the manufacture of triangles, and installation at the desired height will not take much time - raise the triangles, support them with a beam, which then needs to be fixed in the ground.

To make triangles, a board with a thickness of 4-5 cm and a width of 10-15 cm is used. The vertical part can be long so that it is convenient to lift the scaffold to the required height for it. The top bar should be between 0.8 and 1 meter long, and the floorboards will be laid on it. They will also be 5 cm thick, and the wider the better, preferably 15 cm wide.

When making corners, position the joint so that the horizontal board is on top. For added reliability, use metal corner pads. But if you will install the corner using three nailed on both sides, this is not necessary. Installation of triangles is done for each meter. If it works, they are nailed to, and if not, all hope is on gravity. The main load in such a structure goes to a thrust board, which is placed at an angle and it rests with one end against the ground, and with the other against the upper part of the triangle.

Stops should be made of a bar or board with a thickness of at least 5 cm, pipes not less than 7.6 cm in diameter or cross-section (for profiled pipes at least 5 * 4 cm). During the installation of the stop, it should be placed exactly in the corner, hammered into the ground, additionally fixed and driven in wedges. To eliminate the risk of side shift, the installed stops should be fixed with several jibs, which will connect everything into a rigid and strong structure. For jibs, you can use an unedged board, if there is one, the main thing is that the width and thickness parameters are not less than the minimum limit.

If you need to grow stop boards (so that they are more than 6 meters in length), an additional emphasis should be made. It will rest against the middle of the base and thereby remove some of the load. Now about the flooring of scaffolding with your own hands. It must be made of a wide board with a thickness of 4-5 cm. In this case, it is required to fix them to the triangles at least with screws. This design does not provide for the installation of handrails, and the slightest vibrations under the feet will cause discomfort, so it is highly advisable to take care of fixation.

Drawings and photos

The described options are good if you do not intend to use heavy materials. It is not always possible to support the structure on the wall, and then full-fledged scaffolding will be needed. In general, the construction is not complicated, but it also requires a sufficient amount of wood.

For the arrangement, you will need boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm and first we begin to assemble the racks. These will be two thick boards or vertical beams that are held together by crossbars. The cross members should be between 0.8 and 1 meter in size. Make them assume that a more or less comfortable flooring width starts at 0.65 meters. Still, you will feel more confident on a 0.8 meter wide deck. In order to give the structure stability on the sides, you can make racks that will taper upwards.

To prevent the scaffolding from collapsing on the wall, the cross-members should be made with a release of 25 cm.They will not allow the structure to collapse. Racks are placed at a distance of 150-250 cm from each other. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use to make the flooring so that they do not bend. Installed racks at the required distance should be fastened with bevels to each other. So they will not allow the structure to fold to one side. The more you make jibs and crossbars, the more reliable the structure will be.

Also, so that self-made scaffolding does not fall, they should be propped up with a bar or planks, and one end should be nailed to the racks with nails, and the other should be buried in the ground. The cross beams will prevent the structure from folding to one side, but there is a possibility that the scaffolding will fall forward without securing it. To avoid this, the beams should be supported with jibs.

If the height of the scaffolding is 3 meters, it is possible not to prop up, but if the work will be carried out at the level of the second or even the third floor, such fixation is necessary. You should also make a railing if the work will be carried out at a high altitude. For this, it is permissible to use boards that are not very thick, but the main condition is that they should not have cracks and knots. Handrails will give you confidence when building.

Standard 6 meters are enough up to the overlap level of the second floor. But such scaffolds are inconvenient in that they have to be disassembled completely if there is a need to move the structure to another. You can collect scaffolding from sturdy old planks. Sometimes pipes or poles are used to make stops and braces - everything that can be found on the farm.

Construction goats

There is another simple way to make mobile lightweight scaffolding with your own hands - to make the same goats, on which the crossbars are stuffed with a certain pitch, which will be both the stairs and the support for the flooring. Lay the floorboards on the cross members. This option is good because it is ideal for cladding a house. The cladding will occur from the bottom up and it is required to change the height all the time, and there is no way to lean or attach the structure to the wall. For this reason, construction goats will be the best option.

Sometimes one rack is made on one side vertical and without inclination. This will make it possible to install them closer to the wall, and then the flooring will be conveniently located for work. This is a great option for painting, caulking and prophylactic treatments.

Varieties and nodes of metal scaffolding

When erecting a stone house, or building from building blocks, do-it-yourself metal scaffolding is more suitable. They will be able to withstand any load. Their popularity is less than that of wooden structures, since they are more expensive. The second decisive moment is the dismantling of the wooden scaffolding, since the boards can then be put into operation, and the metal parts will gather dust in the shed.

But metal scaffolding also has a lot of advantages. When disassembled, they will not take up much space. From time to time, the owners of private houses still need them - to take care of the log house, for example, which means that they will definitely be needed every 2-3 years. In this plan metal structure will be more practical than wood, as it is easier to assemble and stronger.

All metal scaffoldings have the same shape of vertical layers, which are connected by slopes and crossbeams.

Only the way of fastening between them will differ:

All you have to do is choose one of the types, and the type of work that you are going to carry out will help determine. When making metal scaffolding with your own hands, pin headers are most often used. They are easiest to implement, but not good only for a rectangular shape, and to bypass complex shapes, you will have to additionally weld pipes.

All high-altitude work is characterized by increased complexity, and in this case, it is definitely impossible to do without special devices. One of them is scaffolding. Their price is calculated in rubles / m², and even in relation to the cheapest set (frame) is about 140 - 145. Besides, where to put it then? Renting can also be expensive (from 55) if the repair or construction is delayed for a long time, which in practice usually happens.

Plus, there are some problems with the transportation of forests, since personal transport is not suitable for these purposes. In the field of low-rise buildings (for the private sector), the best solution is to make them yourself.

There are opinions that it is better (and cheaper) to rent scaffolding made of metal and wood than to collect it yourself. The main argument is that buying pipes will cost more. And such judgments are supported by economic calculations. Apparently, the authors of such comments live in city apartments and have a rather vague idea of ​​what it is like to maintain your house in proper condition (both the front part and the premises, the height of which, as a rule, exceeds the typical one). But the owner has to do this regularly.

Moreover, a combination of materials such as metal (skeleton) and planks (flooring on each of the levels) is considered optimal. One of the advantages of wooden scaffolding is (the second is the low final cost) that the structure after the completion of construction (repair) is easily disassembled, and the material is used for other economic purposes. But there is also a significant disadvantage - a limitation in carrying capacity.

That is, on such a device, only such work can be carried out as facade decoration (painting, siding), processing of ceilings, plaster and a number of others. When erecting the same brickwork or the simultaneous stay at the height of several people, wooden scaffolding is unsuitable. But the assembly of pipes and boards is universal in use.

The only difficulty is in the right choice variant of the scaffolding and the method of fastening all structural elements. The costs of manufacturing such multi-level scaffolds are justified only if they can be disassembled and stored in a shed (on site or elsewhere) until the next use. But spending money on a non-separable, welded model is irrational, and hardly anyone will do it. It is impossible not to take into account such factors as the complexity of manufacturing, the strength of the structure and its stability.

Brief description of the types of scaffolding

Clamp. Plus - the ability to change the geometry of the skeleton along any of the axes. The downside is the complexity of assembly / disassembly of the structure. In addition, if it is necessary to increase the bearing capacity, you will have to buy fastening elements. In this case, only one wire, especially a rope, cannot be dispensed with.

Wedge. They differ from all similar models in application with increased reliability and durability. But the manufacturing costs are immeasurably higher (first of all, for holders). Not the best option for the private sector.

Pin. Plus - low weight with the ability to withstand a significant load; ease of assembly (albeit relative). The downside is the high cost; increased pressure on the soil. A number of additional measures need to be taken to ensure sustainability. In the private sector, such forests are usually not used. The main reason is the complexity of manufacturing. Here you need accurate calculations and a welding machine.

Framed. Plus - the weight of the structure is small, but with proper drawing up and assembly, such scaffolds are capable of "carrying" a load of up to 200 kg / m². The limitation in height of 50 m for a private building does not matter much. It is this model in the field of individual development that is considered the best.

What is needed

It is meaningless to designate the exact linear values ​​of structural elements - they simply cannot be. The dimensions of the scaffolding are selected based on the specifics of the work carried out, the availability of space for their installation, the number of masters at the same time at the height, and a number of other parameters.

All numerical values ​​are in mm.

By material:

• Duralumin. It costs less than steel, but such scaffolding is suitable only for low structures used for finishing works... When erecting masonry, they will not work due to their low bearing capacity.
• Steel. These private sector scaffoldings are versatile in use. The explanation is quite clear - the high strength and reliability of the frame.

Cross-section:

• Vertical racks. Profile pipe 30 x 30.
• Spacers (diagonal, horizontal). The pipe is round 15.
• Inserts (supports for fencing and decking). Profile 25 x 25.

To ensure sufficient strength of scaffolding flooring - not less than "forty".

• Length - from 1600 to 2000.
• Width - within 1000.
• Height - 1550.

Those home craftsmen who, for some reason, do not like the given dimensions, can take the following drawings as a basis.

Fasteners

• Bolts + nuts + washers + grover - for fastening metal elements.
• Self-tapping screws (for metal) - for fixing the boards at the place of installation.

The main stages of manufacturing

Preparation of parts. The pipes are cut first. Even if a drawing is drawn up, there is no need to rush with the boards. After assembling the skeleton of the scaffolds, their sizes will still have to be clarified. This saves you unnecessary work if you need to adjust the prefabricated flooring elements in place. The ends round pipes(about 80) are flattened so that later you can drill holes for fasteners. To facilitate such "pressing" it is worth making an axial cut (metal cut) to the specified length.

• Preparation of "contour lines". Before using them in the assembly of the frame, inserts from the profile should be welded to each pipe at the locations indicated in the drawing.
• Preparation of "verticals". To ensure greater stability of the racks, a so-called mounting heel is welded on one end of each. Although it can be made removable - plate + profile section.
• Drilling holes in structural elements. Particular attention is paid to vertical and horizontal (uprights, lintels). Mismatches will lead to distortions. Therefore, the part will have to be unambiguously changed, and this is a waste of materials.
• Setting up racks. The main thing at this stage is to maintain their compliance with the vertical plane. The slightest misalignment will significantly complicate the further assembly of the scaffolding and drastically reduce their bearing capacity. And it is unlikely to add convenience in working on them. That is why all horizontal ties must be extremely identical (in length).
• Strengthening the structure. For this, diagonal spacers are used. The peculiarity of their fastening is in symmetry. If this condition is met, then the entire load on the scaffolding will be distributed more evenly over the entire area.
• Making stairs. The practice of using homemade scaffolding shows that portable models are preferable to stationary ones. For efficient work (in relation to the private sector), one removable ladder is enough. Its small size can be easily removed and installed in another place if necessary. The material is the same - a pipe.
• Arrangement of scaffolding flooring. Boards are stacked last after the final fit. They are attached to the welded inserts with self-tapping screws.

To ensure maximum stability of the scaffolding, it is necessary:

• prepare "shoes" with which the structure is leveled at the installation site. It is easy to make them out of boards with your own hands; preferably several pieces and different thicknesses. In the future, this will simplify the process of adjusting the position of forests relative to the ground;
• to process the soil in the area where they are planned to be used. It is leveled (if necessary) and compacted. This ensures that the soil will not shrink (under load) and the scaffolding will not skew during the work.
• More often than not, one section is not enough. In this case, more is done - two, three. To connect them into a single assembly, it is necessary to prepare adapters. The same profile (30 x 30) is suitable, which is cut into pieces of 100 and welded to the posts. U-shaped metal earrings can be used to fix the sections. To make the fastening as reliable as possible, you should also take a pipe for them, but a slightly smaller section (25 x 25) or diameter.

If you carefully understand the manufacturing process, it turns out that there is nothing complicated in the assembly of scaffolding. The main thing is correct calculation and accuracy.

Traditionally, metal or wood is used for the installation of scaffolding. Timber structures are only suitable for one-time work. They have a simple design, so anyone with basic woodworking skills can handle their assembly. Metal fixtures are reusable and collapsible, they can be reused on other objects. If you have the tool and knowledge of metal processing, it will be very easy to assemble scaffolding with your own hands.

Scaffolding types

In addition to the type of material, scaffolds differ in functionality, method of fastening and construction. On these grounds, designs are divided into several main groups.

Wedge

A special wedge retainer is used to connect the parts of the structure. Such devices are very reliable, and, most importantly, durable. Their rigidity can withstand heavy weights and mechanical loads. It is very easy to assemble wedge scaffolding with your own hands, and most importantly, after disassembling them, it is just as easy to assemble as the first time. This design significantly speeds up and facilitates lifting of large loads and materials.

Framed

The basis of the frame scaffolding is a rigid frame in the form of a frame. Such devices are used in finishing and painting works. Horizontal and diagonal scaffolding elements are connected by means of nodal fasteners. The advantage of such scaffolding is in their low cost, they allow you to create a convenient device without high costs.

Pin

The details of the pin scaffolds are held together with metal pins. Such structures are most often used in ordinary construction work due to the fact that they are more convenient to assemble on site. The time for assembling pin scaffolds depends on the length of the object, as a rule, the process does not take more than a day.

Clamp

For buildings of an unusual, complex structure, yoke scaffolding is used. The parts of the frame are connected in a specific way, which is very popular in professional construction. An important characteristic in the installation and construction of drawings of such scaffolding is the step between the posts and the crossbeams. This distance is chosen depending on the configuration of the building and its dimensions.

General structure of forests

Regardless of the type of connection of parts of the structure and its type, all scaffolding consists of similar elements, such as:

• vertical ribs (racks);
• diagonal stiffeners (make the whole structure strong)
• horizontal crossbars;
• lintels under the flooring;
• boardwalk for moving workers;
• stops that give the device stability and prevent it from falling back and forth;
• protective fencing to protect workers from falling during work;
• ladder for moving between the rows.

The number and size of elements varies depending on the scale and complexity of the object. To facilitate the assembly of scaffolds, you can build schematic drawing.

Plank woods

Perhaps, many builders and professionals have their own tricks for assembling and designing scaffolding, there are also many similar instructions on the Internet. Most of the structures do not differ in anything other than the size of the posts and the thickness of the flooring. To understand such instructions, you should be guided by several dimensions:

• the step between the posts is 2-2.5 meters;
• the average width of the flooring is 1-1.2 meters;
• the structure should not be higher than 6 meters.

Compliance with these rules will create functional and safe forests. To design scaffolding with your own hands, you will need:

• boards for thrust structures and beams 5-10 cm wide, you can use square and round beams;
• material for spacers and protective structure 3 cm thick;
• boards for lintels and wooden flooring - 5 cm thick;
• nails (self-tapping screws in such structures are not recommended).

After preparing all the materials, you can start assembling. First, at a distance of 2-2.5 meters, 4 posts are fastened, for their connection, diagonal struts are used on all four sides. Then, at the required level, the jumper boards are mounted, and the floorboards are attached to them. For protection, a fence board is installed on the posts. The final stage is the installation of supports and the installation of the stairs to go to the top of the scaffolding.

When assembling scaffolding from boards, the following nuances should be taken into account:

• racks and supports are attached in parallel, their location is checked with a building level;
• horizontal jumpers are used to attach the racks to each other;
• crossbars can be stuffed onto the safety railing for better protection.

To lengthen wooden scaffolding, several sections are used; boards are used to fasten them. Fastener boards are stuffed directly onto the supports.

Advice! Often, when fastened with nails, the wood cracks in the places where the fasteners are immersed. To protect the boards from such damage, it is worth drilling grooves in the places where nails will be driven in.

Metal profile scaffolding

Metal products are more convenient if you plan to engage in the construction of several objects. They can be disassembled and assembled at any convenient time at a new place. To mount the simplest scaffolding with your own hands (150 cm high, 100 cm wide and 165 cm long), the following instruction is suitable:

At the end of the work, it is enough to remove the bolts and disassemble the scaffolding into frames. The service life of such a structure is dozens of times longer than the service life of wooden scaffolding. And when proper care they are able to serve for many years.

Pros and cons of different designs

Construction devices are convenient when creating an object, and after the end of the work, the issue of their storage is acute. Even when disassembled, the structure takes up a lot of space.

Wooden fixtures can be collapsible, but this is not easy, especially if the boards have been fastened with nails. And even plank forests need to be stored somewhere. In addition, after parsing, small cracks and crevices remain in the places where the nails are attached, which will contribute to decay. Often, solvent or paint remains on such structures.

Advice! If you have collapsible metal scaffolding after construction, you can sell them at a good price or rent them out.

Self-assembled scaffolds are not suitable for large projects. As a rule, they are intended for buildings with 1-2 floors. The exploitation of forests at high altitudes is dangerous.

Such structures are used infrequently (for repair or decoration of facades), therefore their installation is not always appropriate. It is possible to carry out painting work without scaffolding.

Often, scaffolding is made with a length of 6 meters, which increases their weight and cost. Such a structure will be problematic to transfer from place to place, and its disassembly and assembly will take a very long time.

Alternative to scaffolding

Scaffolding assembly and design should be considered even before building a house. If you will hire specialists for finishing and repair work, then you should not even think about how to make scaffolding. Usually, professional teams have a full list of equipment and tools, including scaffolding.

Often, when scaffolding is dismantled and after construction, the scaffolding remains idle and is thrown away or sold. However, they may still be required for repairs or finishing work. There are many other construction aids that can replace traditional scaffolding.

Before dismantling or renting out the scaffolding, it is worth making sure that the facade is in the proper form. Do not save on finishing work, otherwise you will have to restore the decorative layer. Brick is considered one of the most durable and easy-to-maintain facing materials. Today, you can find many varieties of this material, differing in color, size and texture.

Typically others Decoration Materials(plaster, paint and panels) will need frequent repairs, which will lead to significant costs. To do this, you will have to hire a brigade or rent forests. If you have your own design from a profile pipe for finishing work, you can significantly save on cosmetic repairs. For storage of such a structure, you can take a separate room or build a simple barn.

Scaffolding is a specific thing and not always necessary. But what if they are so necessary, but there is nowhere to take? Mount it yourself! Before getting to work, it is important to know that scaffolding is created on the principle of a frame structure, assembled from wood and steel elements. To understand how to make scaffolding with your own hands, the master must decide on their type.

Scaffolding design and their types

Based on the material of production, forests are divided into two types:

• metal;
• wooden.

Another criterion for dividing scaffolding into types is the method of fastening structural elements. By this way forests are divided into:

• frame - are considered especially durable, since their main is an all-metal frame;
• pin - parts of the structure in these scaffolds are attached to each other with a pin;
• wedge - the structure of such scaffolding is connected by the wedge method;
• clamping - vertical and horizontal posts are connected by inserts according to the "pipe-to-pipe" method, secured by rotary and non-rotary clamps.

How to collect wood scaffolding

What is needed for the installation of scaffolding

To assemble the scaffolding, which is also called a "goat" or "table", you will need the following materials:

• Nails or self-tapping screws (any, if only there is enough length, except for rusty and bent ones, otherwise the work will turn into sheer torment);
• Boards (pallets, fences, old furniture, pieces of chipboard, plywood or wooden boards);
• Bars (any sticks, debris, pieces metal profiles, tree branches).

Frame making

Drawings will be an excellent assistant for those who mount scaffolding with their own hands. It is on them that it is easiest to assemble the frame. To do this, wooden supports and shoes are fixed on a pre-prepared site, and screw supports are installed if necessary. After that, with a certain step, the frames are mounted. Their number determines the estimated length of the structure. Special frames with borders are installed along the edges. Ladders are mounted on frames for lowering and lifting workers. The whole structure is held together by horizontal and diagonal ties. There are special locks to fix them in the frame.

Assembling the frame

DIY scaffolding

The minimum safe height of the scaffolding is 5-6 m, the width is 50 cm, and their recommended length is 4 m.Based on these figures, the size of the frame is calculated and required amount material whose quality deserves special attention.

In particular, to create a frame, a solid bar with a width of at least 10 cm is chosen. The end strips of the structure are mounted at an acute angle. Two supporting six-meter beams are laid horizontally. The distance between them is the width of the future forests. Nearby, at the same distance, two more six-meter beams are laid. The upper ends of the beams should converge at a slight angle in the form of a trapezoid, this will give stability to future scaffolding.

Side racks are fixed to these beams - the support of future decks. Secure the racks with inside, moreover, only three racks are used for decking, and the latter serves to strengthen the structure. There should be no more than 4 sidewalls in total, since it is not recommended to erect scaffolding above "four floors".

Preparing additional racks

Installation of flooring

Before making scaffolding, it is necessary to determine the requirements that they must meet. Height can be considered a defining parameter, because the flooring is necessary precisely for working at a certain height.

Installation of flooring

The length of the "goat" depends solely on the dimensions of the materials available. Of course, a table that is too short will be very uncomfortable, especially at high heights. And you need to remember that there may be two people and a bucket of solution on the table.

To achieve the desired width of the flooring, apply the required number of planks. However, if it is made not from boards, but from chipboard, then the increase will be difficult. As for the scaffolding erected indoors, the so-called "goats", then important point will become the width of the available doorways, as well as the presence of other furniture. After all, the "goat" will need to be moved somehow.

The weight factor is one of the most important, because it is inconvenient to haul forests, and even more so heavy ones. Moving them by dragging is another time exposing them to unwanted physical stress. On the other hand, sacrificing height and durability is definitely not worth it.

Not only the health of the builder depends on the strength of the scaffolding, but also the integrity of the walls, floors, and equipment. All that may be near. However, there is no need to load the structure with unnecessary elements. It is far from the fact that they will really add strength. Correctly hammered nails, screwed in screws, and installed lintels are the guarantee of durability.

Well-designed lintels are the foundation of a builder's safety

Timber forests are sustainable if they don't wobble. And it's not just that the employee feels uncomfortable if the table is wobbling. Any furniture breaks for this very reason, including scaffolding. Well-positioned jumpers are the only way to achieve stability.

Wide and long boards are used for flooring, nailing them to the sidewalls. These three planks need to be spread around the edges and in the center of the deck so that it does not sag. By the way, it is more convenient to cut off the excess when the flooring is already assembled - then there will be no need to measure anything. The gaps between the boards reduce the weight of the product. On the other hand, they enable small objects to continually fall to the floor.

When screwing in self-tapping screws, it is necessary to ensure that the boards do not crack. And protruding self-tapping screws are easily broken off with a hammer blow. If the nails turn out to be long, they should be folded through something round - the handle of pliers, for example. In this case, the sharp end of the nail will go into the wood from the back, giving extra strength.

Assembling metal scaffolding

Metal scaffolding is much stronger than wood and has a longer service life. However, they take more time and labor to manufacture. A scaffolding scheme is usually used to calculate materials and sizes. Multi-tiered scaffolding is made of aluminum, small structures are made of steel. Steel, unlike aluminum, is more suitable for independent scaffolding. To build metal scaffolding with your own hands, the master will need:

• round pipe with a diameter of 15 mm - the basis for future struts;
• profile pipe with a diameter of 30 mm - required for the production of racks;
• profile pipe with a diameter of 25 - connecting jumpers are made from it;
• fastening materials for metal;
• "Grinder" - it is used to grind corners and saw pipes;
• drill and drills.

Preparing struts

The installation of metal scaffolding begins with the preparation of the struts. The 15 mm pipe is cut into two 2 meter pieces. Their ends are flattened. At each end, the "grinder" makes two longitudinal cuts no more than 2 cm.

Then the 30 mm pipe is cut into 1.5 m fragments (the height of one span of the scaffolding). Then, pieces of 0.70 m are cut from the same pipe, intended for lintels between the span posts. The jumpers are installed 35 cm apart. The sizes of all fragments are carefully checked. After the completion of all work, the structure is welded into a single whole using a welding machine.

Manufacturing of adapters

At a further stage, adapters are mounted between the sections. To do this, a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm is cut into small pieces of 25 cm, and a pipe with a diameter of 30 mm is cut into even smaller pieces of 5 cm, with their help jumpers will be fixed. A 25 cm segment is threaded into a 5 cm segment to its center. Then it is fixed by welding or self-tapping screws.

For further assembly of the scaffolding, holes for bolts are made at the ends of the jumpers and in the racks. Jumpers are securely fastened between the section posts crosswise, on both sides. Further, with the help of connecting adapters, the next floor of the structure is created.

Assembling the frame

Framed metal scaffolding is able to withstand a pressure of 180-200 kg per square meter. They are made from racks and frames. Such forests are allowed to be erected to a great height - up to 45 meters. Before installing the metal frame, first of all, they are determined with the location of tiers, stairs and other structural elements.

The assembly of the frame begins with the fact that in a previously prepared area, 3 m segments are laid, on which the support boards are laid. On these boards, metal supports are fixed, which form the basis of the initial tier. After the supports are fastened together with iron ties, the next floor is mounted. On each floor, work surfaces made of boards are equipped - flooring. To climb them, the scaffolding is equipped with ladders on the sides.

Section installation

Before arranging the scaffolding, it is necessary to determine the size and location of the sections. In this case, it is imperative to comply with three conditions:

• the width between the posts is not more than 3 m;
• the length between the posts is not more than 4 m;
• the height between floors is no more than 2 m.

The number of sections depends on the size of the wall. The flooring sheet is fixed on the racks with self-tapping screws for metal or clamps. Then horizontal guides (jumpers) are welded to the posts. On the upper ends of the racks "put on" pipe cuttings (adapters) and welded. If a thin-walled pipe is used, then during assembly, its ends and the middle are flattened, and holes are made in these places for fasteners.

Two diagonal strips are tightened with a bolt in the center, then they are applied to the posts and mark points for future holes. Diagonal strips are bolted to the uprights. Then thrust bearings are welded to the ends of the pipes - flat metal plates. After that, the structure is installed in the working position.

Floor making

Decking for metal scaffolding is made according to the same principle as for scaffolding made of wood. Floorings are made from edged boards, 40-50 mm thick, metal sheets are also used.

Painting forests

When erecting forests with their own hands, not everyone thinks about the need to paint them. Is not required condition for their exploitation. However, a layer of paint will protect the metal from corrosion, and the wood from getting wet and rotting, which will significantly increase the shelf life of the scaffolding.

All photos from the article

Are there any regulatory requirements for scaffolding used for wall masonry and facade decoration? In this article, we will get acquainted with the documents governing their construction, as well as find out how to correctly assemble homemade woods from wood.

Regulations

The requirements for forests are mentioned in passing in countless OSH manuals; however, only two documents give any serious attention to their design:

1. GOST 24258-88 describes the use of paving means in construction;
2. SNiP 12-03-99 is devoted to labor safety in construction; scaffolds are mentioned in section 7.4 of this document.

Let's clarify: the section is devoted not only to forests, but also to safety when using small-scale mechanization tools and auxiliary devices in general.

Let's dive deeper into the requirements.

GOST 24258-88

First of all, GOST standardizes the design load on the forests, depending on their type and the height of the site above the ground level.