The better to caulk a house from a log. Caulking and insulation of a log house

Finishing wooden house includes a number of mandatory works, among which caulk occupies an important part. Caulking is done several times. The first caulking is done during or immediately after the construction of the house. The second time the house is caulked after the end of the shrinkage processes, which, depending on the species and moisture content of the wood, last from a year to two years. In some cases, the log house requires a third caulking, which is performed 5-6 years after construction. Can you caulk in winter? This question is relevant for many, since it is not always possible to perform caulking in a warm season. Let's figure out when it is better to caulk a log house: in winter or summer, and why.

Wood is a living material, it is very sensitive to weather conditions, fluctuations in temperature and humidity lead to a change in the linear dimensions of a wooden house. Even many years after felling, natural shrinkage processes take place in the wood, the tree breathes, the fibers shrink and stretch. These processes are especially active in summer. V winter period the log house shrinks much more slowly.

Shrinkage is accompanied by deformation of the wooden structure. As a result, new cracks and gaps appear between the crowns of the logs, often different sides of the house sit unevenly, which leads to a distortion of the structure.

All the resulting flaws are eliminated with caulking, with the help of which the cracks are removed, the structure is leveled and the house takes on the correct shape.

Please note that caulking is done both outside and inside the house. Work begins with the lower rims along the entire perimeter of the log house, first the outer rim is caulked, then it is also insulated from the inside. Such a sequence of work is necessary for a uniform rise in the height of the house, which increases by 10-15 cm during caulking.

Caulking is usually done during the warmer months. There is an opinion that it is undesirable to caulk the log house in winter, since the shrinkage processes at this time are slowed down, and in the spring and summer the house will sit down further, new cracks will appear and it will be necessary to re-caulk it.

This is not entirely true. The first rough caulking is usually done in the winter. Winter is the best period for the construction of a wooden house, since at low temperatures the house shrinks more evenly than during the heat. During construction, insulation is laid between the logs, and then after the frame is placed under the roof, the hanging edges of the insulation material are hammered into the joints between the logs.

The main condition that must be met before performing the second caulking is the passage of shrinkage processes, i.e. by the time of the main caulking, the frame should already undergo primary shrinkage. In the first year or two after construction, the house shrinks by 90% of the entire shrinkage value. It is very important that the timber inside dries well, and the moisture content of the wood is within 20%. If both conditions are met, then you can safely dig a log house in winter.

You were told that it is not necessary to caulk a house from a bar, they say, everything is perfectly fitted there anyway? You can safely send such "grief" specialists home and invite real professionals in construction wooden houses... Like any other, the technology of building houses from a bar has its own stages and design features, which invariably includes the caulking of a log house, even if you are going to continue to do external and internal decoration with insulation. You should not try to save time and money so as not to overpay in the future. If you do not want drafts to constantly walk in your house, curtains flutter even in calm weather, and over time wet and rotten places in the wood appear, it is better to do all the caulking work at home on time.

Do I need to caulk a log house and why

In some sources you can find information that log house you can not caulk. And the builders who are building your house can say the same thing. They explain this by the fact that, in contrast to the bar, in log houses shrinkage and displacement of wood is stronger and more intense, cracks and leaks appear, so it is imperative to dig in the structure. But houses built from profiled timber practically do not sit down, since the wood is pre-processed. Let's see how it actually happens when building a house from a bar with your own hands.

Beams natural moisture - relatively cheap construction material, for which it is popular in the construction of economy-class houses with subsequent insulation and siding. Even if you invite the best architect, he will not be able to build a house from such a bar without gaps between the crowns and gaps. Moreover, when the timber starts to dry out, and this is inevitable, additional cracks will appear, wider, the timber will decrease in size, it will begin to "twist". As a result, such gaps will appear, due to which the wooden wall will lose its thermal insulation capabilities. To avoid such a sad end, the walls must be buried at least 3 times and thoroughly insulated.

It was invented precisely in order to reduce the costs and time for the construction of a wooden house. It passes special processing in production, due to which it practically does not dry out during operation, as well as its tongue-and-groove connections are ideally calibrated to the nearest millimeter. The timber adjoins each other as tightly as possible, and a 5 mm insulation is placed between the crowns, which is located between the engaging parts. Despite the seller's assurances, the house made of profiled timber still shrinks, as the timber finally falls into place under the weight of the building. In addition, the properties of wood are highly dependent on the region of growth, climatic conditions and storage conditions. No one can guarantee that absolutely all the timber you have purchased is of the same high quality. As a result of the movement of the building, the timber may slightly shift, the insulation wrinkle. Even if no cracks appear after shrinkage, and this option is possible, all the same, those gaps that are in the space between the joints outside and inside the house accumulate moisture, and since the place itself is very secluded and vulnerable, mold and rot can form in it.

Caulking of a log house is necessary in order to insulate wooden walls, completely filling it with natural insulation and sealing the gaps and gaps between the timber and in the corner joints. This guarantees tightness, no heat leaks through the walls, drafts and icing of the timber outside the building, which occurs when warm steam comes out through the cracks and settles with wet frost on the surface.

How to caulk a log house

To summarize, the material with which you can dig a house must meet the following requirements:

• Have low thermal conductivity.
• Be immune to temperature and humidity fluctuations, and easily withstand the wind.
• To prevent insects and pathogenic fungi (mold) from growing in it.
• To be absolutely environmentally friendly material, otherwise the whole point of building a wooden house is lost.
• Be relatively durable (do not lose properties for at least 20 years).
• Be breathable.
• Be hygroscopic, i.e. when it is necessary to absorb moisture, when it is necessary to give it away.
• And the most important thing is to be similar in its properties to wood.

Due to the fact that our ancestors for hundreds of generations caulked their homes on their own, materials that have been tested and tested by thousands of years of successful practice have survived to this day. They can be called traditional materials.

Moss- most best material even today for caulking wooden buildings. This sphagnum moss is a marsh plant that can be red, white or brown. Subsequently, peat is formed from it. Neither of modern materials cannot compare with moss, it is so durable and environmentally friendly. You can drive through the old abandoned villages, look at the houses: the logs are almost rotted, and the moss is still in excellent condition. As a mezhventsovy sealant, moss is simply irreplaceable: it has an antiseptic, antibacterial and medicinal properties... Sandwiched between wood, it inhibits the development of putrefactive bacteria and molds, due to which the wood lasts longer. Moss easily passes air through itself, which, passing through it, is saturated with healing vapors, so the atmosphere inside the house becomes healing. Moss is hygroscopic, which means it smoothes out fluctuations in humidity. In general, moss has no drawbacks, except for one thing - it is not so easy for them to caulk, otherwise no one would have invented or looked for anything new.

Linen fiber tow it is used as a sealant and sealant everywhere, but for caulking - mainly in regions where flax grows and where there are no swamps, where you could stock up on moss. No one produces hemp on purpose, it is waste from the production of ropes, cords and cloths or stripping and stripping after cleaning flax fibers. Hemp has some antiseptic and bactericidal properties, but to a lesser extent than moss. Therefore, in some cases, the tow is treated with resins to increase resistance to high humidity. These resins can be natural, i.e. resin of trees, then this material can still be called environmentally friendly, but oil products are also used for impregnation, then tow has nothing to do with natural materials... Oakum contains a large number of fires, which will shake out during the first years of operation of the house, so the caulking will need to be repeated several times.

It is very similar to tow, only its fibers are coarser, so they are sometimes confused. Hemp is not afraid of temperature extremes and high humidity, so it can be used even in very humid regions. Such properties are due to the high content of lignin polymer, which is also found in any wood for bonding cellulose fibers. Hemp does not lose its properties even after getting wet, therefore it is resistant to decay.

Among modern materials for caulking are the following:

A foreign product, it is imported to us from China, India, Egypt and other countries with a tropical climate or heavy rainfall. It is made from the shoots of the jute plant of the Malvov family. Jute fiber is very durable, not affected by mold, putrefactive bacteria, not interesting to insects and birds, hygroscopic, i.e. easily accumulates and releases moisture, allows air to pass through. Jute contains about the same amount of lignin as wood, so their properties are similar and together they are a perfect match.

Jute is produced both in fibers and in strips of various widths. Jute tape heaters very convenient to use for laying between the crowns of a log house. In addition, pure jute is compacted evenly. These advantages more than exceed the price of this material.

In addition to materials made of fibers for caulking, felt insulation (inter-crown felt) are also used:

Jute mezhventsovy insulation consists of 90% jute and 10% flax. But it is better to follow this ratio, since there is jute felt, 70% consisting of jute and 30% of flax, which significantly impairs its properties.

Linen felt also called Eurolene or flax. It is a needle-punched material made from highly refined linen.

Flax-jute felt consists of jute and flax in a 1: 1 ratio.

Fully modern jute heaters are considered the best, since they perfectly interact with wood and shrink evenly, and other materials with the addition of flax worsen the properties of the insulation. The more flax, the worse the properties.

When to caulk a log house

Caulking work at home is carried out in several stages, this is due to the fact that the timber dries out gradually, the house sinks under its weight. The greatest shrinkage occurs in the first year and a half after construction, and every year it is less and less. Experts say that after 5-6 years, shrinkage practically stops.

First time a log house is caulked immediately after construction. During the construction process, insulation is laid between the crowns, and after the whole house is erected, the gaps between the bars are filled with caulking material, but not too tightly.

Second caulk produced a year and a half after the completion of the construction of the house. The house will already sit down, so it is necessary to caulk it tightly, leaving no gaps and hanging material.

Third time caulking work will have to be done again after 5-6 years, carefully filling in all the newly formed gaps and crevices and adding material where it accidentally spilled out or was pulled out by birds.

If the log house is planned to be sheathed with siding from the outside, then the third caulking is not made, but the first two must be performed without fail. You should not rush and save on what you will later have to pay much more for.

Do-it-yourself caulking of a log house

Caulking is a very responsible and time-consuming process, despite a certain monotony of the operations performed. Not many construction crews they agree to work on caulking, they simply do not know how to do it and are afraid to spoil it, which is why they recommend not caulking at all. We have already figured out why you shouldn't listen to them.

But there are teams and entire organizations that professionally deal with caulking. For caulking a log house, the price depends on the stage of work and is a certain amount for 1 linear meter of each crown. The average cost of caulking is 50-60 rubles. for 1 lm And caulk corner joints can reach 200 rubles. for 1 lm At a separate rate, caulking will be carried out with a decorative rope (rope), which decorates appearance buried walls and prevents the birds from pulling out the material. By the way, it is customary to pay for the material separately. If you are offered to perform caulking work for 25 rubles. m.p., it is not worth agreeing, since the work will be done out of the ordinary.

If you want to do all the work yourself, then please be patient, material, tool and further information.

How to dig a log house with jute

Jute, as a material for insulating a log house, is gaining frenzied popularity. It is often used in the construction of the house itself.

Before caulking a log house, you first need to properly lay and fix the timber. Insulation is always placed in the space between the crowns with a layer of at least 5 mm. Even if the timber is profiled, jute must be laid between the spike and the groove. But its width depends on the shape of the thorn-groove system. The simplest option, when the lower beam has a convex crescent surface, and the upper one has the same recess (somewhat resembles a connection of logs), in this case the space between the crowns is completely filled with insulation, and its edges remain hanging by 4 - 5 cm on each side. A more complex version of a profiled bar, when it is impossible to lay the insulation with a continuous carpet, then it fits only in the middle, and the external and internal slots are then caulked separately.

If the house is from a bar of natural moisture, then the thickness of the mezhventsovy insulation should be 10 - 15 mm.

Important! Caulking must be done from top to bottom. In this case, first one crown is caulked completely outside, then inside, and only then they move on to the second crown. It is better if the work will be carried out by 4 people at the same time on 4 walls. This is necessary so that the house does not warp. After all, after the caulking is completed, it will rise a few centimeters, from 5 to 15 cm.

Consider the option when the insulation hangs between the beams by 4 - 5 cm. The caulking technology is very well shown in the video example. With the help of a caulking tool (tool), the jute is tucked under the bottom and slightly pushed into the gap. Then, neatly, but already more strongly, it is pushed in the upper part, and finally - in the middle. To push the material into the slot, a rubber or wooden hammer (mallet) is used, which is gently hit on the caulk.

If, after the work performed, loosely clogged cracks are still observed, then additional caulking is performed.

Consider the option when the gaps between the crowns are not filled (the insulation is somewhere in the middle of the timber). The work will be exactly the same as with additional caulking.

Usually, the gaps between the bars are rather narrow, therefore this method of caulking is used: a rope with a gap is twisted from jute fiber and hammered into the gap with a mallet.

There is one more way - "stretching". Separately taken jute fibers are laid with fibers across the bar and pushed inward with a spatula or caulk until the gap is completely filled. We leave the remaining ends of the material hanging down, it should turn out to be about 5 - 6 cm. Then a little more jute is taken, rolled into a ball (roller), which is wrapped in these hanging ends and pushed into the slot.

Important! How can you check if it's enough to push in the insulation or if you need to add a little more? If a kitchen knife enters the gap between the crowns by 15 mm or less, then the caulking is successful. If the knife goes further, then the material should be added.

When large gaps are formed, the caulking method "in a set" is used. Long strands are twisted from jute and rolled into a ball. Then loops are drawn from the ball and pushed into the slots until they are filled.

After the completion of all caulking work, the house is loaded and, if possible, is operated for a whole year. In winter, it will be possible to check for gaps by the so-called "hares". These are pockets of frost on the outside of the wall. If you find them, mark the place, this means that there is a leak of warm air from the house. A year and a half after the first caulking, a second caulking is made, the house is carefully inspected, insulation is added to the places from which it spilled out or frayed, where the cracks have increased, where the timber is warped, as well as in the places of "hares".

Only after re-caulking can you start external and interior decoration at home. Even if it assumes 100 mm mineral wool and a ventilated facade.

You can also dig a log house with other materials. But there are some exceptions. For example, you can caulk only a house made of non-profiled timber with moss, since this material is laid and fills completely the space between the crowns, which is absolutely impossible if the timber has a thorn-groove system. The work itself on caulking at home is complex and painstaking, although it seems painfully simple from the outside. If you are not confident in your abilities, invite a specialist.

Caulking of a log house: video - an example

logs are laid with insulating material. This can be hemp, felt, tow, or dried moss.

In order to seal the junction of the logs even better, caulk works are performed, driving in the sealing material with the help of special tools.

What is the best way to caulk a log house?

You can caulk, as we said just above, with felt, moss, tow or hemp. Choose the material that is more accessible to you.

It should be remembered that each of them requires preliminary preparation.

If you decide to pierce the bath with moss, as it has been done from time immemorial in Russia, then the moss must first be dried. Wet moss can lead to rotting of the logs, and too dry (overdried) will crumble.

If you opted for felt, then do not forget to soak it in a solution of formalin or any other substance that prevents the breeding of moths. Otherwise, you run the risk of soon discovering many moth larvae eating felt with pleasure.

The same applies to tow.
After impregnation, felt or tow should be dried.

V recent times many people prefer to use materials such as jute and linen in the construction of a bath.

Jute is a heater made from jute wood (family linden). His distinctive features are high strength and very low hygroscopicity. Even at very high relative humidity air, jute insulation remains practically dry.

Linovatin has received no less popularity in recent years. This is a material obtained from flax production waste and produced in the form of ribbons, which are convenient to use in construction.

Log punching tools

In order to make caulking more convenient, special caulking units have long been used.

Most often, they are used: inlaid caulk, curved caulk, road builder, break caulk and mallet, which strikes the cauldrons.

You can see how they look in the picture below.

Where to start caulking a log house?

As with any of the works in the construction of a bathhouse, caulking work also has its own nuances that you should know before you start caulking a log house with your own hands.

As a result of caulking, each of the walls becomes slightly higher (from 5 to 15 cm). Therefore, it is impossible to caulk the walls in turn, so that the blockhouse does not warp.

Caulking begins from the bottom groove between the logs and goes along the perimeter of the entire bath. After that, they move to the groove, which is higher, and also caulk it around the entire perimeter, after which they move higher. So all the walls will rise evenly and the frame will not be distorted.

If by this time the stove has already been installed, then, in order not to damage the chimney, you should temporarily free up some free space around it in the ceiling and roof of the bath.

Methods for caulking a log house

When caulking a log house, most often caulk is "set" and "stretching".

Caulking "set"

"Vnabor" is usually caulked with wide grooves and slots. For this, the sealing material is twisted into long strands with a thickness of 15-20 mm and wound into a ball.

Filling the free space between the logs, the material is compacted with caulkers.

First along the upper edge, then along the lower, after which they are passed by the road builder.

Stretch caulk

In this type of caulking, the insulating material is applied to the groove or slot and pushed in by hands, after which its edges are tucked and hammered in with the caulking forcefully.

In the video below you can see how the caulking of a log house after shrinkage is performed correctly (to play, click on the triangle):

Now you know, how to caulk a log house correctly during the construction of a bath. Next time, let's talk about how to properly polish a log house.

Latest publications:

Even laid out correctly brick oven, over time, repairs are required. High temperatures, violation of traction, mechanical damage to the masonry - all this leads to the appearance of defects that require elimination. After all, good traction and the absence of cracks in the walls - ...

In order for a house or a bathhouse from a log house to serve for a long time, not to be blown through, and the structure not to warp, the correct caulking is necessary.

Various materials can be used for caulking: tow, jute, wool, felt or moss.

Moss is a proven material for caulking. The log houses of the generations of our grandfathers and great-grandfathers were caulked with moss, and the wooden houses they built are still standing. The most suitable mosses for construction are cuckoo flax and sphagnum.

Moss is placed between the logs as a heater when assembling a log house, and after the log house is assembled, caulking is carried out. The log house is caulked twice: the first time - immediately after assembly, the second - when the house will finally shrink, that is, after 1.5-2 years.

So that dry moss does not crumble, it is moistened before caulking.

The log house is caulked using special tools - mallets and caulkers.

Caulking is a small wooden spatula that is made from the same tree from which the frame is made. If it is made of harder wood, it will leave dents and scratches on the logs. There are also bent caulkers for caulking seams at the junction of logs, made of harder wood or metal. It makes sense to use them only if you already have some experience with this tool. But, in general, in order to properly caulk a log house, a simple caulk is enough. A mallet is a wooden hammer, which is used to strike the caulk, so that the applied force is greater, and the moss fills the space between the crowns more densely.

Caulking begins with the lower crown, gradually moving upward. Undoubtedly, you need to dig each crown around the perimeter of the log house, first from the outside, then from inside... If you caulk each wall in turn, or lay caulk separately only outside or only inside, the house will warp. Wedging the crowns when caulking is unacceptable.

The technology of laying sphagnum moss and cuckoo flax is somewhat different.

Before laying, sphagnum moss is slightly fluffed by hand and the fibers are placed across the logs, so that its fibers hang down by at least 50 mm. So several layers are laid (somewhere 5-10 cm). Then it is tightly hammered between the crowns with the help of caulking blades.

Kukushkin flax is used as a tape insulation and is placed between the crowns with ribbons about 40 cm long, also in several layers 5-10 cm thick. The moss ribbons are overlapped with an overlap of about 5 cm. Then the moss is also tightly caulked between the crowns.

Caulking a log house is not a difficult task, but it requires very great care. At all its stages, it is necessary to ensure that the log house does not warp, and the seams are tight, but the logs do not come off from each other.

Almost do not reduce the number of people who want to build their own house from wood. Moreover, wooden buildings have a lot of advantages in comparison with frame, concrete and brick buildings.

But often many of them forget that a wooden blockhouse, whether it was erected from logs, rounded logs or beams, has such a significant drawback or, rather, a feature, such as shrinkage and high deformability of wooden elements. For this reason, the construction of a wooden house is always more time-consuming - first you need to wait for the shrinkage of the log house, and only then you can start finishing work.

But it leads not only to a change in the geometric dimensions of the logs, but also to the appearance of cracks and leaks, which must subsequently be sealed. Without this, the house will be cold, humid and uncomfortable. To eliminate the defects that have arisen, caulking of the walls is carried out.

What is caulk

The caulking process consists in eliminating the gaps between the elements of the log house with heat-insulating material, which is designed to prevent the penetration of cold air flows into the house.

This seemingly simple job requires patience, accuracy and quite a lot of time from the performer. Caulking technology has practically not changed over the past centuries, so many developers prefer not to do caulking on their own, but use the labor of professionals.

The caulking process has several purposes:

• correction of defects made during the assembly of a log house;
• by eliminating cold bridges;
• elimination of gaps that inevitably arise in the crowns, corners of the house, between the window and and the frame;
• giving the house a complete look.

Do not think that it is enough to dig the house once and on this all problems will be solved.

Only at the first stage - when building a house - caulking is carried out two times:

• after the initial shrinkage of the log house (about six months after its assembly);
• before starting finishing work.

In ancient times, moss and wool were the main materials for the insulation of a log house. They are still used today, but other materials have appeared on the market, differing in price and raw material. Therefore, any person, even those on a budget, will be able to find a suitable material for insulating their home.

In order to choose the right material for caulking, you need to know the properties that it should have (or at least most of them).

These are properties such as:

All materials used to insulate a log house are divided into two groups: natural and synthetic.

• tow;
• hemp;
• felt;
• flax;
• jute.

• mineral wool;
• foamed polyethylene;
• foam rubber;
• sealants.

Of artificial heaters, only sealants deserve attention.

The rest of the heaters should not be used, as this will lead to undesirable consequences:

• good insulation, but it is afraid of moisture and can lead to the development of allergic reactions in some people;
• foamed polyethylene - a material with closed pores, keeps heat well, but does not breathe, which can lead to decay of the frame crowns;
• foam rubber and other materials with open pores are not able to protect the seam from freezing, since air and water get into the pores (in addition, the foam rubber sags under the weight of the logs and decomposes in the light).

Sealing of joints can also be carried out with the help of sealants. This process is much simpler and faster than traditional caulking. Some sealants (for example, Neomid) have good adhesion to wood and high elasticity. Sealants are applied using a construction gun. The seams obtained in this way are not afraid of moisture, do not decompose under the influence of UV rays, do not turn yellow or mold.

But, no matter how good modern sealants are, most owners prefer to carry out caulking at home with natural materials.

Moss- This is the oldest and to this day quite effective insulation for a log house.

It has such essential properties as:

• excellent hygroscopicity (capable of absorbing moisture in a volume 20 times its own);
• the presence of lignin in the structure of fibers, which resists damage to both the moss itself and the logs;
• bactericidal properties - moss is capable of destroying microorganisms.

Before caulking, dry moss is moistened in a solution prepared from 200 g of soap and 500 g of oil, dissolved in a bucket of water. Of all types of moss, only two types are used as caulk: forest (cuckoo flax) and red marsh moss.

Moss is laid not after the assembly of the log house, but during it. To do this, the moistened material is distributed in a layer of at least 10 cm along the crowns with stems across. The ends of the stems 10-15 cm long are released outside for subsequent caulking. The disadvantage of this method is the high laboriousness of the preparation of the moss (it must be cleaned of soil residues and dried) and the rather complicated process of caulking.

Tow can be used, but not desirable.

There are several reasons:

• tow is difficult to twist so that it does not crumble;
• it absorbs water vapor well, therefore it is almost always wet and deteriorates;
• in the heat, the material crumbles into dust;
• Birds are very fond of tow and use it to build nests.

Thus, caulking a log will have to be done too often. The tow is pretreated with a formalin solution, and then dried. This protects it from pests. It is not very convenient to work with tow, because it is too stiff and it is very difficult to achieve a tight filling of the seam.

Hemp- made of hemp stem fibers, which are highly durable and resistant to various influences.

- non-woven fabric made from felted wool. For caulking, it is cut into strips. Needs to preprocessing protective compounds, since it is easily damaged by moths and other pests. Currently, you can buy impregnated felt that has already been treated with bitumen or resin.

Linen- it is advisable to use dry wood to insulate the house or. The material does not possess high density and is afraid of prolonged exposure to moisture, which can cause decay processes in it. The shade of linseed caulk is usually gray.

Flax- made of flax and jute, which together form a good insulation. The material is resistant to external influences, has good density and the ability to restore its size. After the wood dries up, leading to the formation of cracks, the material reliably fills all the voids that have formed.

Jute- resembles moss in properties, but it is much easier to work with it. The material has sufficient density in order not to let the cold through and not let the heat out of the house. Jute is breathable, hygroscopic. In addition to all these positive properties, jute has a beautiful golden hue, which greatly decorates the house.

Insulation technology for chopped walls

From ancient times to the present day for insulation wooden walls there are two main technologies used.

Stretching - used mainly for caulking narrow crevices:

• a strand is formed from the selected insulation, placed in the gap and pushed with a spatula, leaving the outside edge of the material about 5 cm long;
• then a thin roller is rolled up from the insulation, which is wrapped in the edge of the insulation left free and carefully, using a chisel, hammered into the groove.

In a set - used for caulking large grooves and cracks between logs:

• the sealant is twisted into long strands up to 15 mm thick and wound into balls;
• then it is carefully unwound, while simultaneously hammering the material into the slots with a caulking chisel;
• if the slots are of different sizes, then for larger ones, the required thickness of the insulation is gained by twisting it into loops.

• caulking (they are different: type-setting, curve, split);
• a wooden mallet or rubber mallet with a wide head.

The caulkers have a steel blade, which must not be sharp and smooth, otherwise it could damage the seal.

The procedure for the production of work:

• The caulking process itself starts from the bottom, from the lowest crown, and continues up. It should be borne in mind that digging the seams changes the height of the log house.
• One seam must be drilled along the entire perimeter of the log house, first from the outside, then from the inside. This will avoid distortions of the walls of the house.
• Then the next highest seam is processed. And so on to the very top.

It is impossible to caulk individual walls, this can lead to a deviation of the wall from the vertical.

As you can see, the process of caulking a log house is not so difficult, but it requires great care and careful execution of all operations. Then your house will be protected from atmospheric influences for many years, and the facades of the house will acquire a finished look.