Furnace rough drawings. DIY brick ovens for home

It is not difficult to lay a brick stove, which is always ready to warm any home, yourself. You just need to learn some of the subtleties of building brick stoves and use the knowledge gained correctly.

What kind of brick oven can you install in your home and where is it better to do it?

By functionality, all stoves are usually divided into several types. The cookers have a special cast iron panel on which you can heat water and cook food. Such stoves are most often installed in summer cottages and in small private houses in which people do not live in winter. In principle, a cooking stove is capable of heating a small area, but its main task is not this, but cooking.

Heating ones are designed exclusively for heating the home. They do not cook on them, since they do not have a cooking panel, due to which they are usually very compact in size. Cooking and heating - a combination of the first two types of brick ovens, which makes it possible to heat a large area and cook any food. Often, such devices are equipped not only with a cast-iron panel, but also with a separate niche where you can dry fruits and vegetables, and a built-in oven.

Regardless of the type, any stove must be as fireproof as possible, not smoke when kindling and burning, and also create comfortable conditions for staying in the house. To achieve this, you need to choose the right place in the home where you want to fold the stove, guided by the following recommendations:

You can not build a heating device near outer wall residential building due to the fact that it will become very quickly cooled down due to the influence of cold air outside.
They put the stove in the middle of the room or next to the inner wall. It can also be built built into the wall. If the device is placed in the center of the room (this is done when the area of the dwelling is large enough), it divides it into several functional parts - living room and kitchen, bedroom and dining room, and so on. For small buildings, a stove built into the wall or mounted directly under it is more suitable.
To simplify the masonry, it is advisable to find a correctly drawn up ordering scheme for a specific type of furnace.
If the stove is being built between two rooms, it must be separated from the wall surfaces with materials with a high heat resistance index.

Note that large heating devices (the number of bricks is more than 500) and with their own chimney should be installed in the house on a separate foundation. Moreover, he should not have a connection (mechanical) with the foundation of the structure (this requirement must be observed even when the house and the stove are erected together).

We make a foundation and choose a brick for building a furnace

If a stove of relatively small size is being built in an already operated house with a tiled concrete foundation, it is allowed to mount it directly on the existing base. On the concrete floor, you will only need to lay roofing material.

When the flooring of a building is made of wood or the house is on a strip foundation, it will be necessary to prepare a separate base for the heating device.

You can do it yourself according to the following scheme:

We mark on the floor a place for the future brick stove.
Remove the marked part floor covering and we dig a foundation pit in the ground under it (its depth should be about half a meter).
At the bottom of the pit we place a layer of sand (about 10 cm) and on top - rubble (the same thickness), tamp the resulting "pillow".
We put a plank around the perimeter of the pit (it is raised by about 11 cm above the level of the main floor covering).
Pour half of the hole under the stove foundation with a mixture of sand, crushed stone and cement, wait for it to harden.
Fill the second half of the pit with a solution (after the previous composition in the pit is firmly seized), which it is desirable to make more "thin" (add a little more water to it).

After that, it is necessary to carefully level the foundation with the rule and wait about a month until it hardens firmly. And at this time, you can choose and buy a brick, remembering that the durability of the stove depends on its quality.

For masonry, refractory, ceramic, fireclay and special oven bricks are used, as well as hand-molded products. All of these materials should be selected for markings that indicate their strength. A brick oven in a house should be built from special products of the M150 – M200 grades, which have:

uniform color;
straight edges with no chips and cracks;
geometrically correct shape;
dimensions 11.3x6.5 or 23x12.3 cm (it is advisable to buy bricks with just such parameters, since most of the ordering schemes are developed for them).

It is allowed to use fireclay bricks rather than oven bricks. But be prepared for the fact that the fireclay material stove will not only heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly. Outside, fireclay products are faced with ceramic bricks. This must be done. This finish is also recommended for heating structures made of special oven bricks.

Masonry oven mortars - what should they be?

Before you fold the stove with your own hands, you should deal with the compositions that will ensure reliable fixation of the bricks and the entire structure. Usually, masonry mortars based on sand and clay are used (white kaolin or chamotte marl for ordinary bricks, gray Cambrian or ground refractory clay for ceramic).

The components of the composition for laying the stove must be selected very carefully. For example, if you sense that there is a smell (unpleasant or pleasant) coming from, do not take it. The aroma indicates the presence of organic matter in the raw material. Such clay is not suitable for laying the stove. Any sand is taken, the main thing is that there are no foreign impurities in it.

The proportions in a solution of clay and sand are determined empirically by conducting special tests according to the following scheme:

1 kg of clay is poured with plain water and left for 24 hours until the composition turns sour;
knead the clay to the state of plasticine (adding water to the sour mixture);
divide the batch into 3-5 parts and add sand to its different portions (from 10 to 100% by volume);
mix the solutions (as thoroughly as possible) and dry them for about 3.5 hours.

Then the samples need to be carefully rolled out into 30-40 cm long "sausages" with a cross section of about 1.5 cm and wrap them around some round workpiece larger diameter... After that, they wait for the compositions to dry (about half an hour). It remains only to analyze the quality of the solutions.

If microscopic cracks have formed on the "sausage" or there are none at all, feel free to mix clay and sand in the proportions used for this sample. With cracks no more than 2 mm deep, the mortar can be used for laying those sections of the heating structure that do not warm up above 280-300 ° C. If the "sausages" are covered with gaps and deep cracks, this means that there is too much sand in the prepared mixture. It is prohibited to use it for the construction of the furnace.

An even simpler option is to purchase a ready-made mixture for performing furnace work at a hardware store. You do not want to bother with creating the "ideal" mortar yourself, just buy it and start building a brick oven.

It is important to strictly adhere to the ordering scheme you have chosen for a specific model of the stove structure, as well as to decide on the type of masonry. Common ways of installing bricks are with empty seams and undercut. In the latter case, there is no need to plaster the finished stove - the solution is present in it in all the seams made. But when working with empty seams, plastering the built furnace is a mandatory operation.

In order not to make fatal mistakes, beginners in the construction of home heating structures are advised to pre-lay bricks without using a sand-clay mixture. It is done in order using 5 mm thick slats. They are placed between the rows of bricks. In fact, the slats "replace" the solution.

After you build the entire oven dry, and make sure you did everything right, start disassembling the structure. If possible, number all the bricks and stack them separately. Then the process of finishing masonry will take place many times faster.

vertical seams (all without exception) must be filled with mortar in order to avoid the likelihood of delamination of the structure;
each brick in the masonry must be supported by at least two others;
the smallest joint width is 2 mm;
you need to bandage all rows vertically;
the thickness of the mortar for masonry is taken about 5-7 mm, after pressing it with bricks, this value decreases by 2-3 mm (it is allowed to lightly tap the rows with a rubber hammer);
when using ceramic bricks, they are dipped in ordinary water for a couple of seconds, due to which they adhere to the solution without any problems, there is no need to “bathe” fireclay products;
Before laying bricks, dust and crumbs should be cleaned with a hair brush (this operation is called mopping).

Several Yet important points... The bricks are laid on the place designated for them one by one. If the stone lies "by", it must be removed, removed from the clay-sand mixture, and then put back. The mortar that was removed from the bricks is no longer used.

We carry out the laying of the stove on our own using an understandable and simple technology

The first row of the heating structure is laid out without the use of mortar. Then all the bricks included in it are carefully aligned and the locations of all doors and other elements of the furnace are determined. After that, you need to set the position of the corner stones and lay them on the mortar.

We use a level to accurately align the position of bricks horizontally, as well as a tape measure to check the dimensions of the structure under construction in the diagonal and plan. Now you can lay the first row on the sand-clay mixture, starting from the middle of the row.

The verticality of the entire contour of the brick kiln during its construction is controlled by a simple device - plumb lines stretched on a string from the ceiling to the kiln corners. Lines made in this way will be an excellent guideline for masonry. Having completed the first row, we carry out the laying of the second row in a similar way:

we put stones in their place in the corners;
we check the verticality of the corners with a plumb line from the ceiling;
lay out the middle of the second row.

In the same way, we lay the third and subsequent rows of bricks. Do not forget to constantly check with the oven construction plan (with the order). It is imperative to clean the external and internal parts of the stones from excess mortar using a construction trowel.

Depending on the type of furnace, choose the location of the firebox, blower, ash pan. In a conventional heating device, the blower compartment is most often made after the third row of bricks, the ash pan - after the fifth.

When laying the stove, one should adhere to the important principle of dressing the stones used, which involves blocking the next row of each vertical seam with a brick. It is desirable that the vertical joint is located clearly in the center of the next row of bricks. In practice, such an "idyll" is rarely achieved. In this case, try to shift the seam by a maximum of a quarter of a stone.

Do not forget to mount a special sheet between the floor and the first row of masonry (it is called the pre-furnace). It will hide a small gap that is always present in this place. As you can see, a brick oven is not so difficult to lay out with your own hands.

The good old brick oven does not give up its positions under the onslaught of modern highly efficient competitors. Disputes - why? - countless, but actually the reason is the same: the brick stove breathes. Stone, by the way, no.

What does it mean - breathes? When heated, the microporous body of the furnace emits moisture vapor into the air of the heated room, and when it cools, it absorbs them. As a result, the brick oven supports the so-called. the dew point in the room within the optimal physiological limits. When they say that a brick oven is "healthier" than any other, then, knowingly or not knowingly, this factor is meant.

In addition to the beneficial effect on health, the breathing of the stove gives another important consequence: during the medical and heat engineering calculation at home, the lower temperature limits in it can be reduced to 18 degrees for comfort and up to 20 degrees for medicine, because relative humidity air during the heating season will be close to optimal. In wooden and brick buildings can give super-economy: at 16-17 degrees in them, over 80% of physically healthy people do not feel discomfort, and the bed linen remains dry. And in stone or concrete house, heated by batteries, and at 18 degrees it can be chilly.

When heating with water registers, the lower temperatures should be taken at 20 and 22 degrees, respectively, and when heating with IR emitters, electric or gas catalytic, another degree higher; Infrared devices dry the air a lot. Therefore, a brick heating stove with an efficiency (heat transfer coefficient) of 50% may turn out to be more economical in terms of heating costs than an ultra-modern metal composite with an efficiency of 70%, because the heat loss of a house strongly, according to a power law, depends on the difference between the internal and external temperatures (temperature gradient).

Note: a little breathing can be achieved by fencing it with a convection screen (see figure) 30-40 mm thick made of plywood, seasoned hardwood or several layers of drywall. At the same time, uniform heating of the room in height will be ensured. But the breathing of such a furnace will not be deep and even. Here modern technologies they do not reach the brick yet.

Furnace breathing combined with physiology gives an economic consequence of the second order: the heating season can start later and end earlier. In the middle zone of the Russian Federation, the difference per year can reach weeks, and in the Black Earth Region and further south - 2-3. For which you will not need to purchase fuel. And if you consider that a good brick stove works on everything that burns, including waste and cheap alternative fuels (pellets, etc.), then the savings increase even more.

Note: on a global scale, brick kilns do not fit well into the ecology so far - the extraction and production of materials for them causes damage environment greater than the savings from stove heating on losses in heating mains and power lines. But in this case, demand no longer creates, but dictates supply. Leading kiln companies are working quietly but hard to improve the technologies for the production of kiln materials and create brick kilns that can be transported ready-made and installed immediately at the point of use.

Those who want to fold the stove with their own hands are not decreasing. Professional stove-makers also do not break the price: their work is in demand, the competition is quite high, and, besides, most of them are enthusiasts of their business. But in order to take up the stove yourself or competently consider the proposed project, you need to know the basic principles of building stoves, which is what this article is about.

Is it only in the house?

A brick oven on the farm is useful not only for heating and cooking. A stationary can bring a very good income, as can a barbecue IE working in the catering industry.

In everyday life, it is important, first of all, to have a high heat capacity of a brick, which ensures long-term heat transfer after heating. Since the firebox is empty, you can sleep peacefully without fear of burnout. For industrial furnaces, the already low thermal conductivity of bricks comes to the fore, which makes it possible to create a high concentration of heat in working area... In this case, the breathing of the stove becomes already a harmful factor, and it is most often suppressed by placing the stove in a gas-tight case.

Small businessmen specializing in artisanal industrial production, it is worth thinking about these types of industrial furnaces that it is quite possible to make yourself:

Cupola - up to 50 kg of scrap metal can be melted in it at a time.
- for hardening of metal products with simultaneous cementation.
Ceramic kiln, etc.

Note: brick ovens are not recommended for heating greenhouses, greenhouses, poultry houses, barnyards. A stove breathing with miasms will spoil the air, and it will soon spoil itself.

The fact is that factory samples of small industrial furnaces are designed for transportation in parts or assembled. Therefore, their prices are prohibitively high. But, laying out the stove in place, you can get not the worst without getting into an unbearable loan, and expand profitable business... For now, we will dwell in more detail on: they were the first to appear in everyday life and the principles laid down in them are valid for others.

Note: ovens for a bath require a separate analysis. Here the brick is also at its best, but for slightly different reasons. A special section will be devoted further to the sauna stoves.

Oven in the house

It is not necessary to build a house from the stove; you can also choose a stove that is suitable for the house. But first, you need to carry out a heat engineering calculation of the building, taking into account the factors described above and determine the place for the stove in the house. You also need to know that insulating a house from the outside increases the efficiency of stove heating much more than heating with registers. And, in turn, house cladding with siding greatly simplifies and reduces the cost of insulation. That is, the optimal design of a house stove should initially be complex.

As for the layout, here are possible different variants, see fig. The house on the left on it is suitable, for example, for a hermit bachelor, but not an ascetic or a childless family of convinced sybarites, a warm bed in the bedroom will be very useful here. Furnace - heating and cooking. Russian does not fit into such a house, but Swedish (see below) is perfect. Option - budget housing for a small family, then the bedroom turns into a nursery or a zone in the penthouse is allocated for the children.

In the middle, the house is already bigger and more impressive. A fireplace stove with a finished cast iron firebox opens into the living room, see below; fire-chamber door made of heat-resistant glass. Here, too, different options are possible. If, for example, the kitchen with the bathroom is swapped, the heating shield (see below for more information) is turned 90 degrees, and the veranda from the hallway is moved to the right side, then 1-2 more bedrooms can be fenced off by slightly reducing the living room. At the same time, a corridor will lead to the common areas.

The plan on the right is more suitable for a summer residence. In the summer, having opened the window in the kitchen-hallway, it will not be too hot to cook. Fireplace stove in the corner - for evening gatherings by the fire; in it it will be possible, in case of bad weather, to cook a barbecue or barbecue on a grill.

Already at the stage of planning a house with a stove, you need to consider the following:

For a high stove with its own chimney, or for a stove with 500 or more bricks, a separate foundation is needed that does not have a mechanical connection with the foundation of the building, even if they are designed and built together;
A low and wide hob and a heating shield for it on the floor, made according to the requirements of SNiP (i.e., capable of holding a load of at least 250 kg / sq. M), can be installed without a foundation, making only thermal insulation; about it further. It is advisable to reinforce the flooring under the flap with additional logs;
The chimney cut (also see below) must not come into contact with ceiling beams, it is very desirable that the distances from the groove to the floor beams nearest to it were approximately the same.
The chimney should protrude at least 500 mm above the roof ridge and be at least 1500 mm away from it.

Clause 1 allows exceptions. If the furnace is made of 1000 or less bricks, and the foundation of the house is strip sectional, then the foundation of the furnace can be built at the intersection or T-shaped connection of belts under inner walls... In this case, the distance from the furnace foundation to the nearest other strips of the building foundation must be at least 1.2 m.

Note: since even a small Russian stove requires 1500 bricks, then all Russian stoves must be built on separate foundations. But here, too, there is an exception - the Little Russian can be built on the guardianship of wooden beam 150x150 mm, penetrating the floor to buta in the foundation of the building or soil.

Furnace structure

The kiln itself is sometimes called the kiln body. The stove body is installed on the hydro and thermal insulation of the stove foundation or floor and ends with a chimney coming out through the attic and the roof. All this together is called the structure of the furnace. Brick structure heating furnace shown in fig. on right:

foundation;
hydrothermal insulation;
trenches are a kind of legs, they are made for bottom heating and saving bricks;
blew;
the inlet of the strangler - an air channel that ensures uniform heating of the room along the height;
blower door;
grate;
firebox door - created - with fuel supply - rutting;
firebox of a firebox, or just a firebox, or just a firebox;
the arch of the firebox;
the mouth of the firebox, or its hailo. Sometimes only the vertical mouth of the firebox with a narrowing (nozzle) is called a hail, and in a Russian stove hail is a nozzle at the beginning of the chimney;
clean door or just cleaning;
overflow (pass) - bend of the channel of the air convector of the strangler;
strangle air convector;
a valve for switching the furnace stroke (see below, shown conditionally);
gas (smoke) convector, or convection oven system;
vyushka - a valve, which is used to block the chimney after firing, so that the stove is not cooled by natural or wind draft;
the outlet of the strangler into the room with its door. In summer, the door of the strangler is closed, and the convection of air in it stops;
chimney smoke channel;
stove overlap;
internal cutting of the chimney;
ceiling slab;
fire-fighting cutting;
fluff, or otter - expansion of the mouth of the chimney.

Note: the side of the furnace with the creature (in the Russian furnace, the creature is sometimes called the mouth) is called the brow of the furnace, and its side walls are called mirrors or cheeks.

Let's give some explanations. The foundation is solid-cast reinforced concrete; for the furnace on the trenches - tape bundled. Removal of the foundation - at least 50 mm. Insulation - 2-3 layers of roofing material, on top of them - 4-6 mm of asbestos or basalt cardboard, then a sheet of roofing iron, and on it a litter for masonry - a sheet of felt or basalt cardboard, soaked in a very liquid masonry mortar for a stove, see about it . Further. The litter is placed on the iron while wet and allowed to dry before laying.

The first rows of brickwork of the furnace body (oblique shading in the figure) are made of ordinary ceramic red brick (not front!) On cement-sand mortar, this is the underfloor part of the furnace. Next comes the furnace, or fire part (shading in the box), it is laid from ceramic oven bricks in combination with fireclay, about bricks also further, on a clay-sand mortar.

In front of the blower door and the workpiece, a sheet of roofing iron is laid on the floor on an asbestos or basalt cardboard pillow 4-6 mm thick, its root edge is walled up in the nearest upper masonry seam. Carrying out the sheet forward - not less than 300 mm, and to the sides of the forehead - not less than 150 mm. The free edges of the sheet are tucked up and nailed to the floor.

Clay masonry mortar does not set, but dries. With an irregular firebox in the cold season, it gradually becomes limp from moisture. In this case, a part of the furnace body, in which the temperature does not rise above 200-250 degrees, is laid out of furnace bricks, but on a cement-sand mortar, which is also much cheaper than clay, oblique shading with gray fill in Fig. The mortar for this part of the masonry is Portland cement from M400 and mountain sand without inclusions. Replacement with decorative analogs is unacceptable!

The lower transitions from the channel to the gas convector channel (overflows) should be 30-50% higher in the height of the upper (passes). This will ensure the accumulation of soot at the bottom of the convector (on its hearth), from where it can be easily removed. For the same purpose, the edges of the passes are rounded.

Starting from 80 degrees in the chimney, the laying is carried out again from simple brick on ordinary cement-sand mortar. Internal cutting of the chimney is necessary, it holds on itself a fire-fighting cut (at least 50 mm of asbestos or basalt cardboard in a metal cage) and, most importantly, in the event of soot ignition, it will take in heat for a time sufficient to take the necessary measures.

The role of the fluff (otter) is aerodynamic. It cuts the wind flow, forcing its upper part to jump over the chimney mouth, so the draft is not so dependent on the wind. The height of the fluff is at least 2 rows of bricks, the removal at the mouth cut - in half a brick. Neglecting fluff is very common reason smoking stoves.

Choosing a furnace scheme

The main convection schemes for household brick ovens are shown in Fig. On the left is a duct oven with a sequential gas convector, the simplest design. Similar to them are built according to the sequential channel scheme. Beyond simplicity, the advantage channel scheme in that it is very flexible constructively. The convector with the firebox is mechanically connected only by the highlighter, so the channel stove can be designed for any ready-made room, see next. rice.

However, the efficiency of purely channel furnaces rarely exceeds 40%, and it is very difficult to build a water heater in them: a powerful internal heat flow circulates in the furnace body, and any violation of it leads to a decrease in efficiency and increased soot deposition.

In the center in Fig. with diagrams the most advanced brick heating and cooking stove -, its efficiency reaches 60%. It is a chamber oven (oven 1 plays the role of an air chamber streamlined by a stream of incandescent gases) and a duct convector stretched from floor to ceiling behind it. In the chamber part of the Swede, gases heat the hob in the cooking niche 2, and part of the heat from the convector goes to the dryer 3. Advantages of the Swedish oven:

The convector and the oven do not have energy feedback with the combustion chamber, therefore a U- or W-shaped heat exchanger of the DHW system with storage tank, and place the tank itself either in a drying niche, or on the oven ceiling.
Afterburning flue gas takes place in the chamber part of the furnace. They go into the convector with a temperature below 800 degrees, so it can be made of ordinary brick on a cement-sand mortar.
A tall, narrow convector gives an even heating of the room in height.
Part of the flue gases from the chamber outlet can be bypassed, for example, into a stove bench, and then returned to the convector without deteriorating the parameters of the oven.
The dimensions of the convector can be varied, moved and rotated relative to the chamber part, so the Swede also fits well into the finished house and can heat up to 3 rooms, see next. rice. (after channel furnaces).
If you open the oven door, a powerful stream of heat radiation will go out of it, which will allow people who come from hard work in the cold to quickly warm up and dry.

The main disadvantage of the Swedish oven is high requirements to the quality of materials and work for the chamber part of the furnace. In addition, a foundation is definitely needed for it; without it, a high and narrow structure, parts of which are loaded in different ways due to thermal stresses, will turn out to be fragile and unstable. Only an experienced stove-maker can make a Swedish-style stove.

Finally, on the right in Fig. with diagrams - bell oven. Its efficiency can exceed 70%, because it is self-regulating: flue gases will not go into the chimney until they burn out under the dome of the bell and give off their heat to the body of the stove. In addition, the bell furnace has the property of a gas view: if you forget to close the standard one, the hot gases under the bell will not let the heavy cold air from the high through the duct, and the furnace will not get cold. This guarantees against burnout due to the untimely closed view.

However, the bell-type furnace looks simple only in the diagram, and in execution it is very complicated due to the high loads in the structure. Then, the bell-type stove is exclusively heating; it is impossible to build a hob into it. The extraction of heat for a water heater is possible only in two-bell furnaces, which are even more complex, therefore bell-type furnaces are not very common in everyday life. The exception is, but such talented stove-makers are rarely born.

Stove and shield

The development of the Swede's idea gave rise to a very promising design: a conventional hob with a separate heating plate-convector, see fig. All that was required for this was to abandon the cooking and drying niches, this made it possible to mechanically separate the chamber and channel parts, i.e. build them separately; perhaps even one by one.

What do we get in return? Less stress on the floor. In most cases, the slab can be built directly on wooden floor by placing on it the same insulation as on the foundation under the oven. And under the flap, just a damping pillow made of basalt cardboard is enough. The problem of the stability of a high narrow flap remains, but it is solved by creating its mechanical connection with the wall, even if it is a partition in a half-brick, see fig. left.

Further, the flap can be moved and deployed relative to the stove, then the stove can heat the kitchen with a bathroom, and the flap can be up to 4 rooms. To do this, insert into the horizontal section of the chimney between them a flexible link made of heat-resistant corrugation with good thermal insulation to avoid soot settling. In general, at the cost of abandoning niches that are almost unnecessary in our time, a fundamentally new and very practical design has turned out.

Seasonal oven strokes

In summer, when it is already so hot, there is no need to heat the room. But it will not work to put scanty amounts of fuel into the firebox either: the limits of power adjustment by the fuel supply of all stoves are small. The heat from a small bookmark will fly into the pipe, the rest will not be enough for the fried eggs. But acquire summer kitchen with a stove, not everyone has an opportunity.

In such a case, designs of stoves with switching the course from summer to winter have been invented. The easiest way is to switch the course in a parallel-circuit channel furnace, the two left-hand positions. in fig. below. However, the maximum efficiency of the duct-parallel furnace can be achieved only with its power exceeding 20 kW. Here the law of the square-cube works, and in a too small oven the heat "whistles" into the pipe, without having time to heat the convector. In addition, all two-pass furnaces are potentially dangerous: if both valves are accidentally closed, waste will go. Finally, during the summer run, the overlap and part of the cheeks of the stove still heat up.

Meanwhile, there is a two-way scheme, especially suitable for heating shields: a scheme with two chimneys, summer and winter, two pos. on the right in Fig. It only needs one bolt, so it is completely safe - there will be thrust in any position of the switch. The position of the valve out of season is immediately felt by the heat transfer, and you can switch the stroke during the firebox. And smoothly regulate the heating, partially sliding the damper.

During the summer run, gases in the winter run will not squeeze through in any way: the aerodynamic resistance of the convector labyrinth is much greater than that of a straight pipe. And the complexity of the construction of chimneys is not at all double: the gases into the winter chimney go cooled down below 80 degrees, so the winter chimney can be lightened and simplified, for example. asbestos-cement. The only small disadvantage of a system with two chimneys is that each pair of convector channels needs cleaning.

Special ovens

Before moving on to more detailed analysis conventional furnaces, we will focus on several special highly demanded designs.

BBQ oven

The real is the ancient open hearth, see fig. It is built either outdoors under a canopy or indoors under a smoke cap. Laying without any intricacies: in half a brick with a spoon bandage. 3-4 rows need to be laid out with pokes to make supports for the brazier and grates. However, for more details on masonry, see below.

The foundation for an outdoor barbecue is the simplest, slab made of ready-made concrete monoliths or stone blocks on a sand-crushed stone pillow. A room barbecue is built directly on the floor on the combined insulation described above.

The barbecue has one subtlety: the side of the brazier, it heats the cooking from the sides in the right hearth. Therefore, it is advisable to lay out the top 2-3 rows of fireclay bricks, it absorbs heat very well and slowly releases it. In order for the top of the brazier to warm up faster, you need to take faceted shaped bricks, as shown in Fig. below. Through the wedge-shaped depressions between them, heat will pass faster into the masonry. You can make shaped bricks for a barbecue yourself, but then you have to work with a grinder.

Bathhouse

How the oven is built in the usual way; here main secret- heater device. A closed stove through which flue gases pass (on the left in the figure) heats up quickly and gives the most useful dry steam. But you cannot "add" water or kvass to it, you will have to re-heat the stove. In addition, the slightest flaw - improperly selected stones, poor fuel, violation of the furnace regime - leads to the deposition of unburned organic matter in the stove, and dry steam can turn out to be toxic and carcinogenic.

An open heater (second from the left in the figure) is safe, but takes a long time to warm up. To take a steam bath with the "overdose", the stove needs to be heated all the time, so it must go into the dressing room: fumes are especially dangerous when high temperature air. Having poured too much, the stove can be chilled altogether, and the whole bath will go down the drain.

The third stove on the left with a closed side stove is more perfect: the bunker with stones is washed by hot gases from all sides, except for the front one, so the stove heats up faster and you can put more into it. But the most perfect sauna stove is the bell-type stove, on the far right. The stove is located on the dome of the hood, the temperature under which is very high, there is the main source of heat generation, and this heat has nowhere to go except in stones. Therefore, the heater heats up in a matter of minutes and can be inflated almost without restrictions. There is no need to reheat the stove, the “bell” itself will select the mode for itself, depending on the heat consumption, if only there is fuel in the firebox.

This oven has 3 drawbacks. First, the overall complexity and high cost, as in bell furnaces generally. Secondly, a cap made of ordinary steel quickly burns out, and from a heat-resistant road. Finally, it is possible to add to the heater of this stove only from the built-in shower, and you cannot fill it with kvass.

Continuous furnaces

Flow-through furnaces do not have convectors, but they have only external resemblance to a fire in a pipe or a cave. Continuous flow ovens can be very effective. The most popular types are an English fireplace and a Russian stove.

Fireplace

The structure diagram is shown in Fig. To obtain the maximum efficiency, comparable to the efficiency of the Dutch woman, the fireplace insert should be tapered back from all sides, on the right in Fig.

The main proportions of the fireplace are as follows:

Portal area - 2% of the area of the room.
The height of the portal is from 2/3 to 3/4 of its width.
The area of the furnace opening is 1.5-1.8% of the area of the room.
Firebox hearth area - 70% of the portal area.
The depth of the firebox is 1 / 2-2 / 3 of the height of the furnace opening.
Fracture of the rear wall of the firebox - by 1/3 of its height.
The angle of inclination of the rear wall "mirror" is 20-22 degrees from the vertical.
The angle of convergence of the side walls is 45-60 degrees, i.e. 22.5-30 degrees each.
If the fireplace is with a deaf hearth, then its rise back is 4-7 degrees.
The height of the podium above the floor is about 50 cm.
Chimney cross-sectional area - 7-13% of the furnace area. The lower value refers to a round chimney, a larger value to a rectangular one with sides of 1: 2. For a square chimney - 10%

Russian stove

(diagram in the figure) with regular intensive heating gives an efficiency of up to 80%, has amazing decorative qualities, allows you to cook traditional Russian dishes that you cannot cook in any other way, and must be supplied with a stove bench. But the design of the Russian stove is very conservative; only a stove-maker with extensive experience in working on Russian stoves can make changes to it without risking ruining the stove.

From the point of view of structural mechanics, the Russian stove also stands out. It is not a solid, working as one, module (hollow column, wall), but almost a complete analogue of a building: a connected structure, the parts of which interact through the corners. Therefore, the corners of the Russian stove must be laid out according to all the rules. Reconciliation in order is not enough, you still need to constantly verify the plumb line. The key points of the masonry of the Russian stove are shown in the next fig.

Preliminary calculation of the furnace

Before choosing a furnace project, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation for the room. Usually it is carried out on the basis of the heat transfer of the furnace in kcal / hour. In the process of cooling the furnace, heat transfer decreases, but the heat loss in the room also decreases, because it cools down too. The task of the calculation is to withstand the temperature in the room until the next furnace.

Such a calculation is theoretically difficult, but with ready-made coefficients and simplified formulas it requires a lot of experience. But for houses with good external insulation, quite reliable results are given by the method proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov for calculating the average thermal power per unit surface of the furnace (TMEP). For a normal firebox, you can take 0.5 kW / sq. m, and for melting in severe frost - up to 0.76 kW / sq. m within 2 weeks.

With the use of TMEP, the approximate calculation of the furnace becomes quite simple. Let's say we have a stove 1.5x1.5 m in plan and 2.5 m high.The area of its walls is 3.75x4 = 15 sq. m, plus 2.25 sq. m overlap. Total 17.5 sq. m. This stove will be able to deliver from 8.75 to 13.3 kW of heat. Taking into account the peculiarities of stove heating, this is enough for a house of 80-100 sq. m.

Firebox

To calculate the firebox, you must first determine the maximum volume of fuel loading. It is found by the required thermal power, calorific value of the fuel, its specific gravity and the estimated efficiency of the furnace. The calculation is carried out for all types of fuel for which the furnace is intended, and the largest value is chosen. The volume of the fuel chamber of the furnace (combustion chamber) is taken 2-3 times more than the maximum volume of the fuel mass, based on overheating. In general, the maximum fuel load into the combustion chamber is 2/3 of its volume.

A complete calculation of the firebox is the lot of non-amateurs and not even any heating engineer. Take at least such a "trifle" as a grate. It will let in too much air - the fuel will burn faster than the furnace body will accept its heat, the remainder will fly into the pipe. There is little air - the fuel will not burn completely, and the unreleased heat will again go into the pipe with smoke. And the soot, and the ash that clogs up the grates? And all this needs to be linked with other, no less significant nodes of the furnace, and for different types fuel.

Fortunately, now on sale there are many ready-made furnace inserts for different heat output, under different fuels, with deaf or transparent, for fireplace stoves, creative. And the finished firebox will cost less than any home-made one. It is only necessary to pay attention to the following when choosing:

The dimensions of the firebox and its fasteners (pins, whiskers) must be consistent with the dimensions of the brick. Stove bricks are available in several standard sizes (see below), and the same firebox can be sold in several modifications for different bricks.
For a long-term stove, the firebox must be cast iron. Welded from sheet - for stoves used occasionally.
You also need to pay attention to the depth of the narrowing of the combustion chamber to the grates - an ash mine, an ash pit or just an ash pan.

Let us explain the last point. If the furnace is fired mainly with high-calorie low-ash fuel in large lumps (coal, peat briquettes), then the ash pan should be taken deeper, up to 1/3 of the combustion chamber height. In a shallow ash pan, such fuel will burn out too quickly. If the stove is fueled with low-calorie wood fuel, including pellets, then the depth of the ash pan should be no more than 1/5 of the combustion chamber height, otherwise the bottom of the fuel mass will quickly become clogged with ash, the air flow will be reduced and the fuel will not burn out.

As you can see, the ash pan depth fork is large. Therefore, it is better to overpay a little and take a multi-fuel furnace. In such cases, the complete combustion of all types of fuel listed in the certificate is ensured by special design measures.

Note: raw firewood can be completely burned in a deep ash pan, and coal can be burned on an even furnace bottom, having correctly selected the amount of fuel used. But this requires the experience of a stoker and intermediate flooding with sanding, which is no good at night.

Chimney

The calculation of the chimney is a separate topic, almost more complicated than the calculation of the entire stove. Even on a computer, you have to restart the CAD 2-3 times, manually adjusting the original data, before everything does not fit together properly. But for normal conditions (rectangular cross-section, vertical stroke without kinks, height of the chimney mouth above the grate 4-12 m), you can immediately give ready-made values of transverse dimensions for furnaces of different power:

Up to 3.50 kW - 140 × 140 mm.
3.50 to 5.20 kW - 140 × 200 mm.
5.20-7.20 kW - 140 × 270 mm.
7.20-10.5 kW - 200x200 mm.
10.5-14 kW - 200X270 mm.

These values are minimal. They are designed to avoid "whistling" when cold air flows back into the stove through a chimney that is too wide. "Prosvist" is fraught not only with heat loss, but also with a lot of other serious troubles.

If the stove smokes at least occasionally in the chimney chosen "offhand", it needs to be increased by only 0.25-0.5 m. than the chimney.

But the most The best way- do not be lazy and put another 2-4 rows of bricks, not forgetting to make a new fluff. Ever seen a pipe with two otters? This means that the initially short chimney, based on the results of the firing, was increased to normal.

Note: it is often necessary to build up the pipe when changing the aerodynamics of the terrain. Let's say the forest has grown around or the high-rise buildings have been set up.

Furnace materials and appliances

Brick

Sources are often confused with refractory chamotte. They have only sizes in common: if a single building brick has them 250x125x65 mm, then for ovens they are 230x114x40 mm (standard) or, sometimes, 230x114x65 mm. In general, the oven brick is a high-quality red M150. It is entirely possible to build a Dutch woman and a Russian stove from it. In terms of heat resistance (up to 800 degrees), it would go to the fireplace, but it absorbs little heat and cools quickly, therefore it will fit only for a fireplace in a summer cottage, where people only admire the fire.

Note: the dimensions of the oven brick were formed historically in the old days, so that anyone could distinguish it from the building brick. Firing bricks then cost a lot of work and expense, there was no concrete, and deposits of good clay are rare. Therefore, the then wandering stove-makers often cheated, using weakly burnt bricks made of unimportant clay.

Fireclay bricks are used for laying the furnace parts of furnaces with a rather intense thermal regime: Swedish, bath, bell-type furnaces. Its main advantage for household stoves not heat resistance, 1600 degrees in home stoves does not happen. Here the high thermal conductivity of chamotte in combination with high heat capacity is more important: chamotte masonry is an excellent heat accumulator.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to build a furnace entirely from chamotte: at first it will inadmissibly heat up, and then it will give off heat too quickly by radiation. Outside, fireclay masonry should be lined with ceramic on all sides, at least half a brick.

It is not entirely correct to judge the quality of fireclay bricks only by the depth of its color. fireclay clay from different deposits is very different in appearance. Nearly black bricks can be bad, while light yellows are excellent. The main feature qualities - fine-grained structure without many visible pores and inclusions (top left in the figure; next - suspicious). The next stage of testing is tapping with a light hammer. A good brick gives a sonorous or clear abrupt sound, and a bad brick gives a dull stretched sound. Finally, if the knock did not really clarify anything, they check for cleavage, or, in a modern way, conduct a crash test: a brick is broken or dropped from a height onto a hard floor. A good brick also has good cleavage; it splits into large pieces with a granular fracture. The bad one gives more dust and crumbs than large fragments.

The sides of fireclay bricks are called the same as building bricks, this is also shown in Fig. Like construction, fireclay is used full-length, 3/4 of the length (three-quarters), halves and quarters. How they are indicated on the masonry diagrams is shown in Fig. bottom left.

For the laying of internal critical parts of household stoves, clinker bricks, or just clinker (on the right in the figure), are well suited. This is the same ceramic brick, fired at a high temperature. It looks unsightly, but its strength and heat resistance are increased. Clinker costs a little more than ordinary red brick, but much cheaper than chamotte.

Note: silicate brick is absolutely unsuitable for any part of the furnaces. It does not hold on to a clay solution, but from alternating heat loads it draws moisture into itself like a sponge.

Sand

Sand in oven mortar requires special consideration. For a stove designed for more than 10 years of regular use without repair, mountain sand without inclusions is needed. In other species, there is too much organic matter, due to which the seams of the masonry crumble and crack over time.

Clean mountain sand of the roads. But the main thing is that now on sale there is generally an ideal replacement for it: clay sand for ceramic masonry and fireclay sand for fireclay. Do not be surprised at the phrase "clay sand", it is, like fireclay, ground battle of the corresponding type of brick. Brick sand most often turns out to be cheaper than good mountain sand, and mortar-based masonry with it comes out of exceptional quality.

Masonry mortars

They are used for laying brick ovens. A lot of recipes are known, we will give the simplest and highest quality ones. For chamotte you need chamotte marl or white kaolin. For ceramic bricks - any refractory ground clay; best gray kaolin, blue or gray Cambrian. And in fact, and in another case for 100 pieces. bricks need 40 kg of clay.

When buying, they immediately check the clay for smell: any clearly perceptible, pleasant or unpleasant, indicates an admixture of organic matter, such clay is not suitable for laying a stove. Next, you need to determine the required proportion of sand in the solution, because clay from different deposits of the same quality has a different fat content - a combination of adhesive ability with viscosity. For a sample, take 0.5-1 kg of clay powder, fill it with water in a bowl to the top of the backfill and allow it to sour for a day, gain moisture. Chamotte marl completely sour in 1-2 hours, overexposure is not terrible.

Sour clay, adding a little water, is kneaded until the consistency of a very thick dough or plasticine. Then the batch is divided into 5 parts and sand is added to each: 10%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% by volume. All samples are thoroughly, until completely homogeneous, mixed again and dried for 3-4 hours.

Now the samples are rolled into sausages with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm, at least 30 cm long.Each sausage is wrapped around any round object with a diameter of about 5 cm and the result is watched:

The solution on the sample, which has settled down absolutely without cracks, will fit for any furnace, including the fuel part.
The dried crust broke, forming a network of small cracks - the solution is also suitable for all ovens, incl. for the Russian crucible and the Dutch furnace.
The cracks went 1-2 mm deep - the solution is suitable for parts of the stove that are heated to no higher than 300 degrees, for a barbecue and a country fireplace.
Deep cracks, breaks, breaks - there is too much sand, the solution is not suitable.

The main point of testing the proportion of sand is to reduce the cost of construction: brick sand is much cheaper than high-quality clay. Accordingly, the more it goes into the solution, the cheaper it will be.

Note: this test is only suitable for mortar on brick sand. For solutions on natural sand, other samples are used.

The working solution is prepared according to the same principle as the sample, but in the required volume:

The clay is soaked for a day; fireclay marl - an hour.
Knead the mass until the dough.
Rub through a 3x3 mm sieve.
Add sand according to the results of the sample.
By adding water little by little, knead until sour cream is thick.
Check the fat content of the solution in the usual way, by wetting the trowel.
If necessary, add clay or sand (very little!), Knead and start laying.

Note: on average, 3-4 buckets of ready-made solution come out of the sales package of clay.

Furnace appliances

Stove appliances (doors, latches) are attached to the body of the stove either with a mustache that falls on the seams of the masonry (on the left in the figure), or with a skirt made of heat-resistant steel, wrapped before installation with a 5-mm asbestos cord, on the right in the same place. The first, of course, are cheaper, but they are not suitable for creating fireboxes, ovens and heat dampers: during the operation of the oven they have to be changed several times, and breaking the masonry, tearing the mustache out of the seams, is bad. And, of course, the installation dimensions of the devices must be coordinated with the dimensions of the bricks, taking into account the thickness of the seam.

Laying and dressing

Brickwork can be spoon and bonded, depending on which side of the brick looks out. The bricks are laid on the bed. "Bed" laying, when a brick is placed on a poke or spoons, is extremely fragile and SNiP is prohibited, but in exceptional cases it is used for external finishing of unloaded structures.

Laying is carried out with the dressing of the seams, i.e. the seams of individual bricks should have a gap (offset) in the masonry row (in one or two directions horizontally) and between the rows (vertically). In unbound masonry, any microcrack that cannot be avoided will inevitably creep further, destroying the structure.

There are dozens of methods for bandaging seams only in construction, and in the furnace business they also have to be changed in order to lay out complex smoke passages. However, you can check a finished furnace project or one developed independently, guided by fairly simple principles:

Laying begins and ends with butt rows.
Any brick must be supported by at least 2 others.
Bricks in adjacent rows should overlap at least 1/4 in length or width.
All vertical joints must be filled with mortar, otherwise the masonry will delaminate into vertical layers.
The vertical seams of the butt and spoon rows should not overlap.
Protruding thresholds, areas under beams and liners should be bonded.
The hewn parts of the bricks should not protrude outward. The exception is bricks processed with a grinder with a diamond wheel.

The normal joint width when laying the stove is 3 mm, the minimum is 2 mm. Widening up to 5 mm is permissible; on the underfloor rows and in the arch - up to 13 mm. In the places where fireclay and ceramic masonry are interfaced and around inserts made of any other material (stove appliances, concrete beams, pins for the hob, etc.), the masonry is carried out with a seam with a maximum width of 5 mm. The grates are placed dry in a nest on the hearth of the furnace so that they can be removed for cleaning.

All rows of masonry must be tied vertically. In the vast internal spaces of the rows, incomplete dressing in the row is allowed (see Fig.), Or laying by the backing method, i.e. filling them with bricks without bandaging. The dressing between similar rows (for example, underfloor) is conveniently done by the method of mirror reflection, similar to how the fence posts are laid out, on the right in Fig.

Convector and shield masonry

When laying convector partitions, it is necessary to leave bypass windows at the top (passes) and below (overflows). There are no problems with the passes - it is enough not to report 2-3 bricks, and that's it. But the overflow cannot be laid like that, you get a hanging wall. The partitions above the crossflows are laid out, as shown in Fig. Supports from pokes alternate in 3-5 rows. The windows of the spoon row near the butts are closed with halves of bricks.

The walls of the convector of the oven are laid out in its order, and the walls of the heating shield are laid out with spoons with a simple spoon dressing. Her diagrams for walls in half a brick, in a brick and one and a half bricks are shown on the trail. rice. In the latter, a dressing is used by the method of mirror reflection.

Laying of vaults

In household stoves, semicircular (in the form of a part of a cylinder) and flat vaults are used, see Fig. below. In the best Russian stoves, very experienced stove-makers sometimes make an oval four-center vault on special order, and in Pompeian stoves, the vault is domed, but both require high skill and experience. In a mechanically weakly loaded stove semicircular vault, the extreme stones of the wings - the heels - and the central stone - the lock - do not differ from others.

The semicircular arch is laid out in the following order:

Prepare a drawing of the vault on a scale of 1: 1.
On it, thrust bearings are hung up - bricks on which the wings of the arch will rest.
The thrust pads are placed on the mortar and the oven masonry is interrupted until the mortar is completely dry.
According to the patterns - circles - spread the wings of the arch, observing the dressing between the rows.
Apply the solution abundantly into the groove of the lock and insert the castle stones into it in turn, hammering in with a wooden sledgehammer or log. A sign of a properly executed masonry will be a uniform squeezing out of the mortar from the seams on the wings.
They wait until the solution in the roof is completely dry, remove the circle, continue laying the furnace.

The vertical seams of the lock must not line up with the seams on the wings. To do this, already at the stage of the drawing, the wings must be made in a mirror image, and not simply by shifting one to the other side. The maximum angle of divergence of bricks in the vault is 17 degrees. With bricks standard size, an inner seam of 2 mm, an outer seam of 13 mm, this angle will be maintained.

The flat vault is laid out on a flat pallet instead of a circle made of shaped bricks, ready-made purchased or self-made. The masonry technology is the same, but keep in mind - a flat vault does not tolerate the slightest asymmetry! The whole thing is slightly shifted to the side - it will go to collapse by itself. Therefore, the flat vault even experienced craftsmen laid out from shaped bricks according to the proprietary template pallet.

How many bricks do you need?

How many bricks do you need per kiln? After all, the amount of mortar is tied to it and, therefore, the main costs of construction.

Once upon a time, the number of bricks was calculated using empirical coefficients for typical projects. The method gave up to 15% of the battle (and for theft), which is unacceptable at current prices.

Now furnaces are calculated in computer-aided design (CAD) systems. The program immediately gives out how many full lengths, sectional and shaped bricks are needed. But, since they do not build a blast furnace or a kiln for the plant at home, and mastering CAD requires a lot of work, time and special knowledge, the home-builder has no choice but to simply count the bricks in the order of the kiln. It will take an hour and a half for an average house stove, but then, counting carefully, you can reduce the battle to 2-3%

Note: a properly executed furnace project must be accompanied by a specification indicating the number of bricks, other materials and a complete list of devices indicating their type and variety.

Tool

The tool for furnace work is generally the same as for other masonry ones (see the figure below): a pick hammer (butt) with a butt in the form of a wedge for splitting bricks, a trowel (trowel), cutting for convex and concave seams, mortar shovel. But order is also added. In this case, it is not a masonry scheme, spaced along its rows, but a tool for checking its correctness.

The fact is that the masonry of the stove with uneven seams in thickness will soon crack from temperature deformations. On the other hand, clay masonry dries for a long time, not less than a week, and even dried seams can be soaked and an unsuccessful structure can be rebuilt.

The ordering tool (on the right in the figure) is a flat wooden lath 50x50 mm, on the sides of which there are row numbers for different types of bricks, taking into account the thickness of the seam. The oven needs at least 4 orders, and one for each additional corner, internal or external. They use the orders like this:

The podtopochny rows are laid out in the formwork.
In the corners, the orders are fixed, with 2 staples with pointed ends each. The staples are pressed into the seams of the masonry.
A mooring cord is moored to the orders, along which the laying is carried out. For the Russian stove, the corners are additionally verified with plumb lines.
As it is laid out, the upper bracket, shaking it, is taken out of the seam and inserted into the next one.
The holes from the staple in the previous seam are sealed with masonry mortar.

Working principles

In all ovens, without exception, the mechanical connections are relatively weak and the loads are high. Therefore, "brick on brick - drive, grandma, mogorych!" here does not pass unambiguously. The stove, which has not yet been brought to shutdown, will most likely collapse, as described by Makarenko in the "Pedagogical Poem". When laying the stove, the following rules must be observed:

Bricks are placed only one at a time. For beginners, it is advisable to lay out the next row on a dry one, level it, and then put stones on the solution.
Each brick is mopped before laying (not to be confused with scraping!): Thoroughly cleaned of crumbs and dust with a hair brush.
A ceramic brick is dipped in clean water for a second or two and shaken off thoroughly, then it will immediately stick to the solution.
Fireclay bricks are not "bathed" in any case!
It is difficult to apply a layer of mortar exactly 3 mm with a trowel, so experienced craftsmen apply the mortar by hand. But this also requires a certain skill.
The brick is put in place in one motion, you cannot push or tap!
If the stone does not immediately lay down as it should, it is removed, the mortar is cleaned from the brick and its bed and put back.
The removed solution is thrown away, it is no longer suitable for use!

Examples of constructions

As an example, consider a couple of constructs with which you can begin the transition from theory to practice. In fig. - scheme and order the simplest oven made of brick: a hob that does not require a foundation. It will take no more than 130 ordinary red bricks, taking into account the fight at the hands of a novice master. A U- or W-shaped DHW heat exchanger with a storage tank made of a metal water pipe can be built into the descent from the pass of the gas channel to the outlet into the chimney (marked in red in the figure).

Despite its simplicity and small size, the heat transfer of this stove is about 650 kcal / hour, which allows flue gases to pass through a heating shield that heats 20-25 sq. m. living space. A standard size 1 hob fits loosely on a 3-4 mm steel mustache 2, embedded in the seam between the 11th and 12th rows of masonry. Its thickness is 6 mm.

On the trail. rice. - small ordering with a single-burner hob. It is also made of plain red brick M150. Taking into account the amateur battle, they will need 270-280 pieces.

The cast iron stove rests loosely on its mustache, as in the previous stove. It can be removed and inserted into its nest for a barbecue, or skewers with kebabs can be placed on the opening of the plate. With an open (or transparent) firebox door, the stove turns into a fireplace.

It is no longer possible to put this stove on the floor, it is too high and narrow. But on soils with sufficient bearing capacity (loam, sandy loam, forest land, etc. "summer cottage" soils), the foundation for it can be solid slab on a sand-crushed stone pillow, as for a barbecue hearth.

Video: example of laying a simple brick oven

The most important principle

Finally, we will give the most main principle construction of brick household stoves: the stove and the house are closely interconnected, they can be friends and enmity. It is very simple to reconcile the stove with the house: any of them will show all their advantages only in a solid, well-insulated house.

No one a private house does not do without a traditional brick heating and cooking stove. And although today many houses are equipped with gas heating, most owners are in no hurry to give up a brick stove, as it gives a special warmth - the warmth of the hearth, filling the home with coziness and a sense of tranquility. In addition, in regions rich in forests, you can significantly save on natural gas consumption by acquiring firewood.

The desire to make redevelopment in the house, including the transfer of the heating and cooking stove, can often run into the nuances and subtleties of the stove business. You will learn how to fold the stove with your own hands in this material.

There are many types of stoves, but not all are used in private construction.

Types of stoves for private houses:

Heating(fireplaces, sauna heaters);
Brewhouse(oven exclusively for cooking);
Universal(heating and cooking).

The latter type is considered universal, therefore it is most common in private construction.

Furnace device and its properties

After reviewing the sketches and projects of brick ovens, and choosing a specific option, you should pay attention not so much to its external design, but to the internal structure. The device of the heating and cooking oven determines its performance, and ultimately, the service life.

The internal design of the heating and cooking stove does not depend on the location of the device itself in the house. The kitchen stove can be located in the middle of the room, in the corner or against the wall.

The main structural elements of the heating and cooking furnace:

Shants (warm air ducts);
Ash pan (or blown);
Grate (for connecting the firebox with the ash pan);
Under (slope to the grates);
Furnace chamber;
Burnout (smoke exhaust);
The arch of the furnace (separates the combustion zone from the afterburning zone in the combustion chamber);
Air vent (a hole through which heat enters the heated room);
Outer wall;
Smoke circulation (Channel connecting the combustion chamber with the chimney);
Overlapping;
Chimney;
Indent (space between the chimney and the stove);
Smoke dampers;
Heat dissipating walls.

The heat output of the stove is determined by the amount of heat energy released by the stove per hour and depends on the amount of fuel used. Heat capacity (the ability to retain heat from the burned fuel) is measured in hours. Different ovens have different level heat capacity, which also depends on the degree of insulation of walls and ceilings, windows and doors of the house.

The location of the stove in the house affects the amount of heat. A house with a stove in the middle will be warmer.

Russian stove and its device

The Russian brick stove is installed on the foundation, since its device is quite massive. In its design, the Russian stove includes a preheater used for storing fuel, which dries up in it and easily flares up when the stove is melted. The subheat is closed with a vault-trough, onto which a bedding on a solution of clay is poured. The bottom of the cooking chamber is installed on top of the bedding.

The Russian stove has a special design that significantly differs from the traditional heating and cooking stove in the heat transfer coefficient and other parameters. During heating, even for a short time, the Russian stove accumulates heat and is able to give it away for 24 hours.

In order for the Russian stove not to consume an excessive amount of fuel, not to smoke and not to cool down in a matter of hours, when installing it, it is important to observe the exact masonry technology and dimensions that the diagram includes. Bricks forming internal organization ovens are trimmed and sanded so that the walls inside the hail are even and smooth.

Also in its design, the Russian stove includes a combustion chamber, which is its heart. The firebox is divided into a cooking chamber or bakery and a firebox (crucible). The floor of the crucible has an inclined structure, which must be made exactly according to the drawing when constructing a Russian stove.

The crucible is the main secret hidden in Russian cuisine. After cooking, some dishes must simmer for a long time in the cooking chamber. To achieve such an effect or create similar conditions for the preparation of Russian cuisine using the usual hob or an electric oven is not possible.

The main secret that distinguishes the Russian stove from the traditional one is the smoke channel simplest design, which in its efficiency surpasses the devices of the smoke channels of other furnaces.

DIY Russian stove device (video)

Choice of design

The choice of the type of oven depends on the conditions of its operation:

Heating and cooking stove. If you plan to use the stove intensively in your home, it is better to choose a heating and cooking stove with a massive device and regular heating. In the device of such a furnace, its structure, consisting of many cold bricks, is first warmed up, then heat transfer begins.
Heating furnace. For a house in the mountains or a summer house where permanent residence is not planned, a fireplace will be enough. Although it has a small heat capacity (2 - 3 hours), it is able to warm up a room much faster than a massive stove. This design will allow you to quickly warm up in the cold season.

The brick heating stove can be installed with or without a foundation. The lightest structure is assembled in a quarter of a brick (the brick is placed on the edge). In order to give it strength, a frame made of metal corners is used. A massive furnace requires a foundation that should not be associated with the building support. In the case of a separate chimney, it also needs its own foundation.

Determine the size and power

The level of heat transfer of the heating and cooking stove must exactly fulfill the possible heat losses, which depend on the temperature outside the house, as well as the degree of insulation of walls, windows, doors, and also ceilings.

The size and design of the future furnace determines its power.

Furnace device. Where to begin?

The laying of any stove cannot be started without a project or drawing, which must include the location and dimensions of the structure, as well as the outlet of the chimney without disturbing the load-bearing elements of the structure. It is also necessary to calculate the heat transfer coefficient of the furnace. The scheme or design of the future furnace is drawn up on the basis of this calculation.

It is quite difficult to create a project or drawings of a heating and cooking stove on your own, so you can use the services of a design organization or information on the Internet.

Tools and materials

When the design of the stove is approved, it is possible to prepare for its laying.

To fold the stove with your own hands, you must have on hand:

Stove-maker's hammer (trowel);
Master OK;
Building level and plumb lines;
Measuring tape;
Cement-sand mortar;
Hand-held power tools (hammer drill, grinder, etc.);
Red brick;
Refractory bricks (fired);
Facing brick;
Masonry mortar made of clay and sand;
Heat-insulating and moisture-proof materials;
Furnace fittings and appliances.

Do-it-yourself oven masonry. All stages

Like any construction process, do-it-yourself stove laying is done in stages.

The scheme of this process includes the following points:

Arrangement of the foundation. The foundation can be laid not from a whole brick, but from a battle. The foundation is not used for all furnace structures, but if you are building a Russian or massive furnace, you cannot do without its device.

The support of the future furnace should in no case come into contact with the foundation of the building, since they have different settlements and in case of distortion, the furnace may crack and its operation may be disrupted, and this is fire hazardous.

The depth of the foundation depends on the weight of the furnace structure and its design, and the support area must exceed the overall dimensions of the furnace by at least 5 cm around the entire perimeter. The foundation is leveled with fired brick masonry in two rows on cement mortar to the floor level. When forming the first row of masonry, it is necessary to achieve a flat horizontal surface in accordance with the level, since the quality of the construction of the entire furnace will depend on it. This is followed by a layer of waterproofing, as a material for which you can use ordinary roofing felt or roofing material, the material is laid in two layers.

Furnace masonry. The first row is laid on top of the waterproofing. Brickwork from each row should be started without mortar, leaving gaps between the bricks equal to the future seams (3 - 5 mm). Next, a mortar is laid in place of the corner brick and leveled with a trowel. The brick itself is immersed in water and kept there until all the air is released. The “recessed” brick is removed from the water and placed correctly on the mortar, tapping it with a trowel to level it. The excess solution is removed with a trowel.

A brick stove in a private house or in the country can always perform several functions, for example, heating and cooking. But most often the construction of a brick stove is carried out with one purpose - to constantly maintain heat in the house. So that the heating of the room is carried out efficiently (regardless of its size), and the fuel consumption remains moderate, you should know not only design features brick ovens, but also the correct order of its construction. Also, special attention should be paid to the choice of building material. You can learn more about how to fold a simple brick oven with your own hands.

It is necessary to accurately distinguish between ovens according to the principle of use, which are divided into:

Red brick heating stoves. They are used most often, since they can be used to heat up to 100 m 2 of the room. The dimensions of the oven can be quite large.

Heating stove

Cooking ovens. They are used exclusively for cooking, of course, while spreading a certain heat around.
Combined brick option. This brick oven can be used for both cooking and heating. It is very convenient, for example, in the country or in a country house.

Combination oven example

Fireplace options. The brick fireplace stove is not widespread, but some owners are trying to give the old stoves exactly the look of a fireplace, saving space. It is used for space heating or as a decorative version of a fire source.

Fireplace version of a brick stove

To find out the main structural elements and dimensions of a red brick stove, for example, you should take the most popular option - a combined one (a hob and a brick stove for heating a house or summer cottage).

The structure of the combined brick oven:

Firebox. This is the place of the Russian stove in which the fuel is burned. Since the temperature in this place is constantly high, then the materials should be selected accordingly.
It blew. A free cavity, which is laid out of bricks directly under the firebox. The main function is the accumulation of ash and small unburned residues. Also, air enters the furnace through the blower, which improves the quality of fuel combustion.
Ducts for removing smoke from the oven. One of the most difficult parts of the oven. Passing through the channels, the combustion products give off part of the heat to the brick, which subsequently heats the room.
Chimney. Releases exhaust gases into the atmosphere. It also provides the traction necessary for combustion in a Russian stove.
Tile. Located in a place above the firebox and only in cooking or combination ovens.
Cleaning holes. For greater convenience, they are mounted in the upper part of the chimney, this place allows it to be quickly and efficiently cleaned.

The foundation is the basis of any structure

Like every solid building, a brick stove for a home should have its own foundation. The weight of a brick oven is on average 1.5 tons, no more. Therefore, in the ground it will be enough to dig a trench up to 15-20 cm deep, which is approximately equal to one bayonet of a shovel, and you can start building a furnace with your own hands from bricks.

After the foundation trench is ready, formwork can be installed in it. The formwork is made from boards of any category with their own hands, the only condition is the absence of traces of decay. The structure should rise 10-15 cm above the ground. According to the rules, the base of the foundation should be level with the floor, but many home owners make it a little higher. The walls of the formwork can be fastened together using knitting needles.

A sand cushion is poured into the bottom of the trench. You don't need to use a lot of sand. A cement mortar can be poured over the embankment, which requires the following materials:

1/3 bucket of cement.
8 bayonet sand shovels.
Water (add until thick cement slurry is formed). In case of accidental overflow of water, a little cement and sand should be added.

The first layer of cement will be 7-8 cm. Materials such as pieces of reinforcement or pre-welded mesh should be laid on it. Next, the second layer is poured and the reinforcement is also laid. The reinforcement will reliably bind the entire structure and add strength to it. After the end of the pouring, the solution must be allowed to dry, this can take up to several weeks.

2 layers of waterproofing should be laid on the finished foundation. It is not necessary to fix it, the brickwork will qualitatively press the waterproofing to the foundation.

Do-it-yourself brick laying of a brick stove, step by step

With knowledge of the sequence of laying a simple brick oven and having the required tools at hand and building materials, the work may take several days. It takes no more than one day for the craftsmen to build a brick oven.

The most important in the oven is the first brick row, which is laid with a solid surface, without any cavities or technical holes. To set its level and correct angles, use: a square, a building level and (if necessary) a tape measure. After finishing the laying of the first stove level, it can be checked using a plumb line fixed to the ceiling in the room.

Construction of the first row of brickwork

If you do not follow these recommendations and do not use measuring tool, then the result may not correspond to the desired: a row with curved walls, disproportionate corners, an uneven surface. Then the oven will have to be shifted, which will lead to additional waste of funds.

A whole oven brick is not always necessary here, sometimes halves are enough. In order to prepare such pieces, you should use a grinder with a diamond wheel. The brick cannot be beaten with a hammer, it is too fragile and the pieces will turn out to be uneven.

You can see the whole process described above in more detail in the video:

The above sequence clearly shows that it is possible to fold a simple oven (which will withstand an increase in degrees) or a brick slab with your own hands, and this does not require complex tools or expensive building materials.

Ordering for a brick oven

Preparing the mortar for laying the stove

Most often, for laying a stove (or firebox) made of bricks, an earthen solution is used, which can be prepared with your own hands (for example, for a cooking stove), it does not take much time for this. The following materials are needed for the furnace: clay, water, sand. Clay, before preparing the mortar for laying the stove, must be soaked for at least 24 hours. After that, pure water should be added to it, without mineral impurities. The resulting masonry mortar should be thick enough and resemble sour cream in consistency. The last ingredient is sand, it is added in small portions, constantly stirring the solution.

If the bricklaying of the brick is made according to all the rules, then the clay mortar is not suitable for the first row (the junction of the brick and the foundation), as well as for the chimney. This is due to the accumulation of moisture during continuous operation of the oven. Clay is prone to water absorption and cracks in the event of sudden changes in temperature. Therefore, it is better to use lime mortar for these places.

The procedure for preparing a lime mortar for a brick oven:

Materials: quicklime, water, sand. Prepare a mixture of water and lime in a 3: 1 ratio. In this case, it is necessary to add water to the lime and constantly stir the solution until the dough is formed. It is very important to use a face shield and gloves when working with quicklime.
After preparing the dough for laying the oven, it should be crumbled and sieved with high quality, getting rid of too large particles.
Sand is added to the sieved solution, the amount of which should be 3 times more than lime.
Adding water will allow you to get a thick mass for laying a stove or a separate firebox. Now you can start building a real Russian stove. Some masters, for greater strength, add a small part of cement to the solution.

A high-quality, but more expensive substitute for kiln clay and lime mortar is cement mortar. Cement is characterized by increased strength, as well as resistance to temperature extremes; it is most suitable for laying a stove used to heat a room, as well as a chimney or oven.

To prepare such a solution, sifted sand and cement will be required. The ratio should be 1 portion of cement to 3 portions of sand. Having prepared a dry mortar (it is enough to mix the cement and sand), you can gradually add water to it, but only in small portions. Having achieved the required consistency (the solution should become creamy), you can start laying a brick oven for a house or summer cottage. The main disadvantage of cement mortar for creating a brick oven with your own hands is that it should be used within one hour after preparation.

And another useful video for novice stove-makers

This article contains an understandable, very detailed photographic instruction for laying a brick oven with your own hands, tips on how not to make a mistake when choosing the necessary materials and how to correctly place the stove in a private house for optimal heating of a larger area.

Options for installing the stove in the house

The placement of the stove depends entirely on what the owners expect from it. If it is installed in a small house and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. Such a stove is a good option for grilling barbecues or kebabs.

Brick oven placement options

The second scheme is for a solid square house. In this case, the front side of the fireplace stove opens into the living room, the stove walls heat both bedrooms, and the heat in the rest of the rooms is maintained by means of heat exchange.

The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking is a budget housing option for a bachelor or a small family. Pros - warm bed and the possibility of placing in the hallway dryer.

Important: it is worth taking care of the external insulation of the house in advance, because it greatly increases the efficiency of stove heating.

Selection of bricks, sand, mortar

In order for the oven to serve for a long time, you need to correctly select all the materials. There are three types of bricks:

Ceramic - can be used to build a furnace.
Silicate - generally not suitable in this case, even double M150.
Refractory - ideal, but they are often used only for the firebox and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.

Advice: when choosing a brick for a stove, you need to completely abandon its hollow types.

The mortar is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, special fireclay clay is required. Some stove-makers still make their own solution in the old fashioned way from river sand with a grain of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5: 1) and water. At the same time, it is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called oily clay. However, it is easier and safer to buy a ready-made oven mixture in a store, preparing it according to the instructions.

From accessories, you need to purchase grates, blower and furnace doors, soot cleaners, latches or dampers.

Preparation, tool list

Before starting work, you need to determine and mark the place that the new stove will take.

The chimney pipe should be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.

If the laying is done by you for the first time, professional stove-makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model of the future stove from the prepared brick. Naturally, no solution. This minimizes possible risks in real laying, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.

The stove foundation requires preliminary waterproofing; in terms of area, it should exceed the area of the stove.

When laying a new row, you need to control the absolute verticality of the walls.

To build a brick oven, you need the following tools:

plumb line;
trowel;
roulette;
putty knife;
Bulgarian;
knitting wire;
building level;
metal strips, corners;
containers for cement and clay mortar.

Step-by-step instructions with a photo on laying the stove

Different stove-makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that have come over the years of experience. Here is information about enough easy way creating a fireplace stove for heating two-storey house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even for novice stove-makers.

Foundation masonry

A basic row of brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is made with any brick, some stove-makers even cover this level with rubble.

When laying the base row, cement mortar is used.

The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.

Erection of the furnace body

The first oven row is marked. The horizontal, from which they are repelled when marking, is the wall of the room.

Where the fireplace is planned to be placed, a grate is placed. From this row, bricks are already laid on the oven mortar.

An important stage of work is the scrupulous leveling of each new row.

Laying the second row. The stove wall, which is closest to the wall of the room, is reinforced with additional bricks to increase fire safety.

The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the furnace is laid completely. A door is being mounted through which the owners will clean out the ash.

The door is installed on the mortar, leveled off. For a more reliable fixation, it is fixed with wire, which must be laid between the bricks.

The grating is not laid on a simple brick, but on a refractory brick. Holes are cut in the fireclay bricks so that it lies on the same level as the bricks.

The size of the brick is easily adjusted - the excess is measured out and neatly cut off.

The large door is mounted next to the installed grille.

The large oven door is similarly fixed with wire fasteners.

The first furnace row is placed exactly above the fireplace; it is reinforced with metal corners and a strip or thick sheet metal. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut through with a grinder, then the slots are manually adjusted to the desired size.

The next brick row is laid.

A fireplace grate is laid on a fire-resistant brick along with a brick row.

The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to fit it.

The firebox of the new stove with a fireplace is ready.

Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed over the furnace firebox.

The stove body is built.

Chimney creation

The place left for the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.

Brick chimney wells are being laid.

Soot cleaners are mounted above the roof of the firebox.

The wells are again divided, the first rows of the walls should be reinforced with metal strips.

After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The chimney space remains empty.

The cornice of the body is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.

The final stage of work on the ground floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and comes out at the top left. The final division of the wells is covered with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace, 2 brick rows are laid on the sheet metal.

Two chimneys stretch to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. A separate damper is required for each chimney.

Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is installed here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. To save money and not build a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will go along it like a snake, having time to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is placed in the area of the second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 of a brick.

A hole for the chimney is carefully cut out in the roof.

Before removing the chimney to the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.

If the chimney is located in the immediate vicinity of the roof ridge, it must be laid out above the ridge by at least 0.5 meters. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed, equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the furnace draft, lifting the smoke upward.

Even a small stove in the house is coziness and comfort. Larger stoves require increased dexterity and additional materials, however, the principle of their construction is similar to the one described above.

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