Correct insulation of a wooden house from the outside. Correct insulation of walls of a wooden house from the outside Procedure for insulation of walls outside of a wooden house

How to properly insulate the facade wooden house without committing at the same time typical mistakes... An effective and easy-to-use method of thermal insulation of external walls with mineral wool: a description of the process from the choice of materials and surface preparation to the creation of a multilayer thermal insulation system.

A new wooden house is an unstable structure, subject to shrinkage, therefore, it is worth thinking about insulation and facade cladding no earlier than 2 years after construction. And the most reasonable solution would be the installation of an insulation system, postponed for 3-5 years.

High-quality thermal insulation of the building not only ensures the preservation of heat in the house, but also prevents the destruction of the outer walls from the effects of unfavorable atmospheric factors: temperature drops, rain, high humidity and UV radiation.

There are two ways to insulate the walls of a wooden house - external and internal. To understand why the priority should be given to the first, consider the cons of the second.

Insulating the walls of the house from the inside: why is it not the best option?

The following circumstances should induce the owner of the building to evaluate the consistency and rationality. internal insulation walls:

a significant decrease in the usable area of the premises;

the level of freezing of the wall from the outside is the same as before the thermal insulation;

displacement of the "dew point" inside the wall, and this is another reason for the appearance of condensation at the border of contrasting zones (cold and warm);

when freezing in wet wood, microcracks are formed, which over time leads to its destruction;

the accumulation of moisture occurs inside the heat-insulating material, which leads to its wetting and deterioration of its properties.

The choice of insulation

Minvata is perhaps the best material for thermal insulation of a wooden facade. Ideally basalt based. The composition of such a heater includes substances with high water-repellent properties. Material :

easy,
has good vapor permeability,
fire resistant,
ensures normal air exchange, which contributes to the creation of a favorable microclimate in the house;
the plus is that the insulation does not become a haven for all kinds of insects, mold and mildew spores do not settle in it;
provides reliable thermal insulation and sound insulation.

It is not recommended to use polystyrene on wooden facades. Under such a material, the walls are deprived of the opportunity to "breathe", which serves as an impetus for the development of the process of decay of wood.

Important! When insulating the walls of wooden buildings, you should not use vapor-proof materials made on the basis of bitumen. They provoke the formation of fungus.

When using extruded polystyrene foam for thermal insulation, plaster is recommended as a topcoat. To successfully withstand excess moisture in your home, it is important to ensure that supply and exhaust ventilation... If the insulation is carried out with miniplates, then the device of a ventilated facade will be the most optimal. Air circulation in this design will prevent excess moisture build-up.

What do you need to work?

When insulating the facade, the following materials and tools are supposed to be used:

insulation;
timber for lathing, slats;
vapor barrier material;
construction tape, glue, stapler with staples, self-tapping screws, disc dowels;
building level, hammer, hacksaw, screwdriver, etc.;
antifungal impregnations, antiseptics for bars and walls.

Thermal insulation of a wooden facade with mineral wool: sequence of actions

Thermal insulation works should be carried out in dry, warm weather, preferably in summer. Let's list the main stages into which the process is divided:

procurement and preparation of tools and materials;
surface preparation;
laying an intermediate vapor barrier;
installation of the lathing;
installation of a heat insulator (min-plates);
decking of a hydro-windproof layer;
facade finishing.

Now about everything in detail. Preparing the walls before the installation of the insulation system: fill up cracks and cracks, remove mold and rot, treat wooden surfaces, including lathing beams, with an antiseptic.

First with vertical slats an intermediate layer of vapor barrier is laid between the carrier wooden wall and insulation... The presence of strips, the thickness of which is at least 25 mm, makes it possible to obtain the air gap necessary for ventilation, which will save the facade from the accumulation of moisture. Moreover, this stage can be missed if the insulated facade is made of laminated veneer lumber. Here the material itself, processed in a certain way during the production process, becomes an obstacle to vapors.

Attention! Do not use ordinary plastic wrap instead of a vapor barrier membrane. The material is impermeable to steam, which will cause condensation to form. The exposure to moisture on the wall will be permanent.

A crate is mounted on top of the vapor barrier layer. To create it, they take even, dry beams, the length of which corresponds to the height of the walls. The size of the timber depends on the thickness of the insulation, and should be from 1/2 to the full thickness of the material. For example, a minelite - 50 mm, a bar - 2.5x5 or 5x5 cm; if the insulation layer is double, then a 5x5 or 5x10 cm bar is used. The distance between the vertical elements of the frame is equal to the width of the heat insulator. Installation of mineral wool is carried out from the bottom up.

Attention! For a denser, without gaps and cracks, the adhesion of the min-plates to the crate, it is recommended to make the distance between the beams slightly less (by 2-3 cm) than the width of the insulation.

Next, we arrange a layer of waterproofing, which will ensure the unhindered passage of water vapor from the side of the insulation and at the same time prevent it from getting wet and weathering. A waterproof and windproof vapor-permeable membrane during work is placed on the outside of the insulation. To fix it, use a construction stapler or counter rails, which is even better. The overlap of the canvases is 10-20 cm. The joints of the vapor barrier membrane can be hermetically glued with one-sided or double-sided self-adhesive tape.

It is very important to lay the film correctly, with the right side facing the insulation. If it is a double-sided material, then usually the outside is colored brighter. It is impossible to say unequivocally, since there are different kinds vapor barrier. It is imperative to refer to the manufacturer's installation instructions.

Important! It is better not to use regular tape. Such fixation of joints will not last long. After some time, the seams are unstuck, seriously violating the tightness of the vapor barrier.

On top of the water protection, slats are attached along the crate, the width of which exceeds the width of the timber by 5 cm. This ensures a more reliable and tight fit of the insulation and forms the gap necessary for free air circulation between the created multi-layer thermal insulation system and the facade cladding.

At the end of the installation, the final stage follows - finishing with siding, clapboard, chipboard for plaster, block house or any other facing material. High-quality, correctly performed insulation is effective method, which allows you to significantly save during the heating season, saving up to 40% of the heat in the house.

Video: How to insulate the facade of a wooden house - step-by-step instruction

How to insulate floors in a private house with your own hands?

Wood is a material widely used in construction due to its many advantages. Popularity building structures and wood finishing ensure environmental friendliness, strength and low thermal conductivity of wood, therefore, wooden houses in the suburbs and rural areas, built according to modern technologies, do not look anachronistic to this day - they are durable, beautiful, and provide a comfortable temperature regime it is easier in them than in stone buildings.

Private house made of wood

However, due to the influence of unfavorable factors on the enclosing structures - changes in temperature, humidity, microorganisms, wood dries up, decays, deforms and, over time, more and more loses its positive characteristics, including thermal insulation properties.

If you insulate a wooden house, moreover, perform the operation in a timely manner and correctly, this will not only protect the walls of the log house and extend its service life, but also reduce heating costs by reducing heat loss, and also improve the microclimate in the dwelling. Consider how best to do this, including with your own hands.

Features of the insulation of a wooden house

Wood is a unique material with the ability to "breathe", moreover, the intensity of this "breathing" (vapor permeability) along and across the fibers is different. The maximum vapor permeability of the tree is along the grain, the minimum is across. This characteristic also depends on the type of wood.

According to the classification according to SP 23-101-2004, including the recommendations of clause 8.11, the walls of a wooden house on which insulation is performed are two-layer structures, therefore, their insulation is carried out outside:

Excerpt from SP 23-101-2004

Criteria for the suitability of the material for the insulation of a wooden house

In order to meet the requirements of building codes, the sequence of the layers should not only prevent the accumulation of moisture in the thickness of the enclosing structure, but also facilitate its evaporation / weathering. Therefore, the value of the vapor permeability of each of the layers is important.

Important! To prevent the multilayer enclosing structure from getting wet, the vapor permeability of the materials of its layers should increase in the direction "from the inside out".

Treated logs or beams have a surface, most of which consists of cut fibers. The vapor permeability across the fibers of such products is higher than that of untreated ones, but to a certain depth.

For clarity, let's summarize building materials with thermal insulation properties in a comparative table and arrange them after wood in descending order of the vapor permeability coefficient:

Material	Density	Vapor permeability mg / m h Pa
Wood (pine, spruce) across / along the grain
Mineral wool
PVC foam (marking "1")
Expanded clay concrete
Autoclaved aerated concrete D500
Hollow clay brick
Solid clay / sand-lime brick
Penoplex
Polyurethane foam
Expanded polystyrene
Roofing material, glassine
Polyurethane mastic
Polyethylene

Conclusion - from the listed heaters, mineral wool has the optimal degree of vapor permeability.

The vapor permeability coefficient of polystyrene foam is small, but despite this, use foam as a heater wooden houses regulations are not prohibited. The same applies to polystyrene foam, which is superior to expanded polystyrene in terms of strength characteristics, but also has a low vapor permeability.

Materials used for insulating wooden walls

Highlighting two groups of insulating materials suitable for thermal insulation of wooden structures, consider the degree of suitability of each isolate - this will allow you to better understand than specifically and by what assembly technology insulate a wooden house from the outside.

Mineral wool insulation

V this group thermal insulation materials include the following insulators:

stone wool;
slag wool;
glass wool;
ecowool.

Stone (basalt) wool - non-combustible heat-resistant fibrous material in the form of plates or mats, produced from rocks and withstanding heating up to 600 0 C. Basalt fibers of the insulation are interconnected by formaldehyde resins, and to reduce hygroscopicity, the isolant is treated with a hydrophobic composition. Superior types of stone wool are available with a foil, fiberglass or kraft paper coating. The expediency of using basalt wool as a heater for wooden houses is determined by its low thermal conductivity, high vapor permeability and resistance to microorganisms, and the significant rigidity of mats with a low weight makes it the best option when choosing a mineral wool isolate.

Important! Rock wool fibers are elastic and, unlike glass wool, do not irritate the skin, but this material must still be installed using personal protective equipment (respirator, goggles and clothing).

Stone wool

The disadvantage of basalt wool is its high cost relative to other heaters in the group.

Slag wool - heat insulator produced from waste of the metallurgical industry, produced in the form of plates and rolls, often with foil on one side. The thermal insulation characteristics of slag wool are worse than those of the previous insulating material, and its maximum thermal resistance is 300 0 С, but at a price it is wide available material, which is a good noise protection and repels rodents.

Important! Serious disadvantages of slag wool are hygroscopicity and the release of sulfurous acid compounds when wet, which has a destructive effect on wood.

Slag wool

Due to these disadvantages, slag wool is the least preferred material for insulating wood from the considered group of isolates.

Glass wool - a long-fiber insulation with a low specific gravity, made from a molten mixture of glass breakage with limestone and brown. Available in rolls and sheets, foil-coated and with reinforcing fiberglass coating. The considerable length of the fibers (15-50 mm) provides glass wool superiority over other types of mineral wool insulation in elasticity, elasticity and tensile strength.

Glass wool is non-flammable, heat-resistant (withstands up to 450 0 C), vapor permeable, resistant to chemicals and has high thermal insulation characteristics. When wet, the material loses its heat-shielding properties and dries for a long time, therefore, like other heaters of the group in question, it needs waterproofing.

The main disadvantage of glass wool is the difficulty of working with it, due to the fragility and sharpness of fibers that penetrate through ordinary clothing and are dangerous for the respiratory tract, eyes and skin.

Plain sheet and roll foil glass wool

A comparative table will help to make a choice between slag and glass wool:

Comparison of characteristics reveals the preference for using glass wool, but this does not take into account the possibility of using basalt thermal protection, which is the best option.

Ecowool - insulation made from waste paper industry, consisting of natural cellulose (80%) with the addition of fire retardants, which provide the ability to absorb and evaporate moisture without compromising the thermal insulation characteristics of the material. The isolate also contains antiseptics and insecticides that protect the insulation from insects, rodents and microorganisms.

Ecowool is produced in the form of a dry loose mass of light gray color, packaged in bags, which is applied to the base using special compressor equipment.

Despite a number of significant advantages (high thermal insulation properties, sound and vibration absorption, environmental friendliness), the popularity of this insulation is low due to the complexity and high cost of mechanical application. Laying by hand is laborious, time consuming and less efficient.

Solid polymer insulation

Given the low vapor permeability of these polymers, the wood trimmed with them from the outside will not "breathe", as a result of which it will begin to damp and rot. Accordingly, to prevent these processes, special attention will have to be paid to ventilation. indoor spaces and materials for their finishing, which entails considerable additional costs, both during the arrangement and during operation.

Thus, the use of foam plastics on wooden structures from the outside is impractical, light floors on interfloor wood beams do not need insulation at all. But heat protection is needed by concrete slabs, stone basements of wooden houses, and solid polymers with their high thermal insulation characteristics will effectively provide it.

From polymer sheets thermal insulation materials for the insulation of concrete structures of wooden houses, the most popular are:

expanded polystyrene;
penoplex;
PVC foam.

Expanded polystyrene - one of the many varieties of polystyrene, in everyday life it is often called so. It has high thermal insulation characteristics, is lightweight, easy to handle, cheap, but at the same time fragile, flammable and vapor tight.

Expanded polystyrene (one of the foams)

In addition, the structure of this isolate is represented by closed balls, the cavities between which are accessible for water penetration. The moisture accumulated in the polystyrene not only negatively affects the structures finished with it, but also, freezing, destroys the insulating shell itself. Accordingly, these disadvantages require additional, compensating types of work and impose restrictions on the use of expanded polystyrene.

Penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam ) - improved foam, dense and solid insulation, due to its high characteristics, is widely used in civil and industrial construction.

The working temperature range of the foam is wide (from -50 to +75 0 С) and depends on the density of a particular grade of material applied to the sheets in the form of letters "K", "C", "F", "Comfort", "45". Insulation material marked "C" (wall) and "Comfort" (universal) is intended for insulating wooden walls.

Important! You should not use penoplex with a density of less than 25 kg / m 3 - such material will be porous, loose and short-lived.

Advantages of extruded polystyrene foam

Penoplex is resistant to mechanical stress and moisture, which determines its higher price than foam plastic, but this material also has a low vapor permeability.

In turn, penoplex has two improved varieties - Technoplex and Polispen, differing in strength characteristics and vapor permeability.

Technoplex and Polispen

For use in residential premises, both types are used, but with the marking "35".

PVC foam - closed-cell material based on polyvinyl chloride, produced by pressing and having the best vapor permeability in the group of solid polymer insulation. In terms of strength, PVC foam is superior to penoplex, which allows it to be used as a structural material, but does not create difficulties when processing with hand or power tools.

Polyfoam PVC-1

Petrol and oil resistance, low water absorption (less than 4%), a wide range of operating temperatures (from -60 to +60 0 C), the ability to self-extinguish and high biostability in combination with the previously listed advantages determine the high cost of PVC foam, which hinders its popularity. In addition, this self-extinguishing isolate, surrounded by a flame, still burns, moreover, with suffocating smoke - the hydrogen chloride released during combustion, combining with moisture, forms hydrochloric acid.

Methods for external thermal protection of a wooden house

Thermal insulation of buildings made of wood is carried out in two ways:

under the "wet" facade;
under the hinged (ventilated) facade.

The choice of a method for insulating wooden walls from the outside depends on the section of the crowns (log or timber) and the technology of the subsequent external facing of the walls.

"Wet" facade they call the finishing of insulated walls by applying building and decorative mortars to the insulation, in which no gap is provided between the thermal protection layer and the finishing cladding. With this method, the thermal protection shell turns out to be loaded with plaster and decorative coatings, therefore it is attached to the wall by gluing over the entire area. The basis for such fixation of the insulating material must be even, therefore, under the "wet" facade, the houses built of beams are insulated.

Ventilated facade implies the presence of an air gap between the outer cladding and the insulation layer, which is achieved by the device on the wall of the frame system, consisting of a crate, counter-lattice and fastening elements. In this case, the load from exterior decoration carries a frame, the installation of which is possible on the wall of any profile.

Frames for ventilated facades - wood and metal

Important! For any method of external insulation of walls made of wood, plastic fungi with steel screw-in cores are used for fastening heat protection.

Thermal insulation device for a "wet" facade

Laying insulation on a wooden base for this type of exterior decoration differs from a similar operation on a stone wall only in the technology of base preparation and fasteners.

A period of stable dry weather is selected to carry out the work.

First of all, the walls are cleaned of dirt, dust, moss and inspected for damage by the woodworm beetle.

Cleaning the rims with a power tool with an abrasive nozzle

Important! If the wood has traces of the presence of a grinder beetle, it is impossible to insulate the house - the inaccessibility of structures will accelerate their destruction due to the impossibility of performing periodic disinsection.

The cleaned bases are covered with an antiseptic twice with an interval of a day; this is done especially carefully along the lower rims, corners and ends of the logs.

After one or two days of drying the walls, cracks in the logs, the cracks between the crowns are tightly caulked and filled with sealant.

Cracks in logs and their sealing

On the walls with an elastic compound for wood, stone wool mats are glued tightly to each other and attached to the base with dowels with steel rods. The effective thickness of the insulation should be at least 10-15 cm.

Then a thin layer of cement leveling mixture is applied over the insulation with a spatula. A reinforcing fiberglass mesh is glued onto the hardened shell, followed by applying a primer with a brush.

Plastering and finishing painting is performed on top of the dried primer.

Important! The use of leveling mortars and acrylic-based paints on wooden walls is not compatible with the high vapor permeability of wood.

Due to the dynamism of the surface of wood substrates, a "wet" facade is not always the best solution for insulating a wooden house, since the plaster layer is a fairly static, rigid shell.

Thermal insulation device under a ventilated facade

On the dry walls treated with an antiseptic, a vertical sheathing of wooden bars with a section equal to the thickness of the insulation is attached. The pitch of the bars is 3-4 cm less than the width of the insulation - this will allow you to lay the mats tightly, spurring each other.

Inner row of battens

On top of the bars, after laying the thermal protection in the niches between them, a windproof vapor-permeable membrane is attached with a stapler - placing the strips horizontally, with a porous surface inward, gluing the seams with tape. Then a counter-lattice is arranged along the film - a ventilation gap frame made of vertical wooden bars with a thickness of at least 5 cm, superimposed on the lower planks and attached to them with self-tapping screws. The resulting structure of vertical ties is the basis for the installation of the finishing cladding - vinyl siding, lining, block house, etc.

The outer row of lathing bars and clapboard sheathing of a wooden house

Watching this video will add clarity to the idea of \ u200b \ u200bthe insulation of a wooden house:

In the same ways, but after glazing, you can perform thermal insulation of the wooden walls of a terrace or veranda, turning them into a cozy heap in winter.

Thermal insulation of a wooden house from the inside

Considering that the layer of thermal protection on wooden foundations should be 10-15 cm, the total loss of useful volume of housing after insulation from the inside will be significant. Therefore, in the topic of internal heat protection, it is more expedient to consider the best sheathing inside the house not wooden walls, and concrete floors between floors and above the basement, as well as the floor in the basement.

It is much easier to insulate the slabs from the floor side than to mount the insulating material on the ceiling of a room located below. But the floor insulation, in order to withstand mechanical loads, must be solid enough or equipped with a reinforced top concrete screed... And here the best option for a heat-shielding material will no longer be mineral wool, but extruded foam.

On the cleaned and leveled floor, a waterproofing is arranged, on top of which fitted sheets of foam are placed end-to-end. The strength of this material allows us to restrict ourselves to the subsequent device of a leveling screed with a thickness of 3 cm, on which they then put ceramic tiles or other finishing floor cladding.

Insulating the floors of the basement, first and second floors, as well as attic floor, the task within the framework of thermal insulation of wooden housing from the inside will be almost completed, since window blocks and double-glazed windows also play an important role in reducing heat loss.

Conclusion

External thermal insulation of a wooden house is not a whim and not a tribute to fashion. Done correctly, it will not give a reason to regret the costs - a significant increase in the durability of housing from expensive natural material worth it.

The main point of the article

Wood is a natural building material that, among other things, has thermal insulation properties, therefore wood construction popular today.
To extend the service life of log houses and slow down the loss of wood's unique qualities, wood structures must be insulated. In the best way insulation of housing made of wood is its heat protection from the outside, and the best material- basalt wool. Foam plastics are not suitable for arranging wood structures, but they are in demand for external thermal insulation of plinths and interior arrangement floors.
"Wet" and ventilated facades are two constructions used today that provide thermal protection of wooden walls, but the second version is more "sharpened" for the physical characteristics of wood.
Thermal insulation of wooden houses from the inside should be understood as the device for thermal insulation of concrete slabs of interfloor ceilings.

Observe technology insulating a wooden house from the outside, carry out the work carefully and in the specified sequence:

the first layer is a film for vapor barrier walls;
installation of frame lathing;
direct installation of the selected insulation;
fastening to the frame of the waterproofing layer;
installation of facade cladding.

The choice of insulation

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house? Check out the popular wood protection materials.

Mineral wool

Many owners choose mineral wool. Quite justified. This lightweight material:

keeps warm well;
not subject to combustion;
it is soft and elastic;
easy to work with;
withstands temperature drops;
there are no cold bridges.

External wall insulation with mineral wool is often used by owners of new and old houses from a bar. First, equip the frame and fill it with rolls of mineral wool. The material fills the voids well.

The supporting structures of the frame hold the mineral wool tightly. Additional fastening is not required. The material is produced in rolls, plates or mats.

New boards are laid on top and cladding with plastic siding is carried out. The building will acquire modern look.

Ecowool

This insulation came to us from Finland. In harsh conditions, the material, consisting of cellulose and antiseptics, has successfully withstood the test of severe frosts and icy winds.

Dignity:

eco-friendly, natural material;
prevents the appearance of mold;
mice do not gnaw ecowool;
excellent noise and heat insulation;
used for external and internal insulation;
the walls "breathe" well;
does not emit toxic substances when smoldering.

Installation of ecowool does not require the arrangement of a vapor barrier layer. Methods of applying the cellulose mixture: wet-glue, bulk, blowing method using a special machine.

A high-quality, monolithic layer 10 cm thick will allow you to create reliable protection by cold. Suitable for use in various climatic zones.

Styrofoam

This material is used to insulate the house from the inside. Outside, insulate a house from a bar with expanded polystyrene Not recommended... Cause? The material is poorly breathable. The result is the appearance of condensation, rotting wood, the development of mold fungi.

Cold bridges are inevitably formed between the base and expanded polystyrene in places of loose fit. Some of the heat will go to waste.

For internal thermal insulation with the help of foam, first it fills the rack frame to provide an air gap. Plates up to 5 cm thick are fixed with adhesive solutions or special fasteners.

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside

Have you already decided on the type of insulation? Mineral wool or ecowool - you decide. It remains to consider stages of warming the outer walls of a wooden house.

In the photo you see one of the insulation options, the order of work.

Vapor barrier

The task of this layer is ensure adequate ventilation of the facade under the foil... If the facade is made of round logs, you can fix the material directly to the tree. The clearances will be sufficient.

On smooth surface first you need to fill the wooden slats. Thickness - 2.5 cm. Observe the distance between them - within a meter.

You need aluminium foil, roofing material, special vapor barrier film. Attach the vapor barrier to the battens. Cut a ventilation hole at the top and bottom. Diameter - 2 cm.

Important: Where nails or staples are driven in, tape the surface to seal.

Arrangement of a wooden frame

You need regular board... Width - no more than 10 cm, thickness - no more than 5 cm. Thinner ones are not suitable for this design.

Nail the boards vertically. Make sure that the distance between them is 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation. This will prevent gaps and voids from appearing.

Thermal insulation

If you chose ecowool, use a blower to apply the cellulose mixture to the wall. Remember- no vapor barrier required!

Place the mineral wool slabs in the prepared frame, ensuring a snug fit. Choose semi-rigid boards with a density of 120kg / m3. Additional fastening is not required.

Waterproofing layer

To you you need a special film with a vapor permeability of more than 1300g / sq.m. its task is to let steam through, but not to allow it to get on the insulation layer. Installation is carried out in the same way as when installing a vapor barrier layer.

It remains to fill boards on the frame to dry the condensate that has fallen on the waterproofing layer. Boards with a thickness of 2.3 to 3 cm and a width of 5 cm are suitable.

For protection from insects and rodents, install from the bottom metal mesh with small cells. Pay special attention to the arrangement of the protective layer when insulating log house mineral wool.

Outer cladding

What will your house look like after insulation? Can be stuffed wooden lining or euro lining made of larch, oak or pine. Process the boards, open them with varnish.

Consider the design of doors and windows. Insulation will increase the thickness of the walls up to 25cm. You can move them to another place and equip new wooden frames, platbands, window sills.

The second option is to give your home a stylish, modern look. You will need a block how, vinyl or metal siding. Work is carried out from the bottom up. Fasten the cladding with screws or nails.

To your attention a video about the insulation of a wooden house from the outside. What is better to insulate?

Insulation prices

Insulation of private houses and cottages can be done independently. This option only costs material.

Many owners turn to construction firms. If you do not have the skills, time and desire to insulate your home, allocate a certain amount to pay for the work of professionals. Average prices are as follows.

A full range of works on the arrangement of thermal insulation: from 1080 to 4000 rubles. per sq.m. The total cost depends on the chosen insulation and the method of installing the protective layer.

Thermal insulation of a wooden house from the outside - a process that requires a balanced approach to all stages of work... Buy quality materials, heed the advice of experts, follow the technology - and your house from a bar will be warm. New decorative facade will create a mood.

It is necessary to protect the walls from the cold. There is a large selection of materials for this. Insulation of the facades of private houses in regions where it is very cold is performed with some materials, others will be suitable in areas with constant precipitation. You will have to choose a heater depending on the conditions.

The process of insulating the facade of the house with foam

Performing work, they achieve the following tasks:

protect walls from the effects of climate change;
exclude heat leakage from the house;
increase resistance to temperature extremes;
close bridges of cold, cracks.

Correctly executed, it will maintain a constant temperature in the room, which will reduce heating costs.

Common types of insulation

To insulate the facade of a private house, you can take one type of material, or use combined thermal insulation. For example, when thermal insulation boards are covered with plaster on top, which will protect them from external influences.

Adhesive way of laying insulation on the walls of the house

A reinforcing mesh is used to fasten the material.

Insulation materials

They are used as heaters:

Mineral wool. Suitable for insulation of external walls, especially for finishing the facades of wooden houses. Sold in the form of tiles or mats. The density of the material is about 80 kg / m3, it has a thickness of 50 and 100 mm, dimensions - 50 by 100 cm and 60 by 120 cm. Such parameters can withstand temperature differences from + 35 to - 30˚C, the material is non-combustible.
Thermal insulation of the building with mineral wool slabs
Glass wool - it contains limestone, dolomite, sand, and other fillers. Carries mechanical stress, saves from bad weather. The disadvantage is heavy styling, hands and face need to be covered. There is a type that contains an additional layer of foil or fabric so that the particles do not separate from the base. The price of the material is relatively low.
Basalt wool is made from particles of basalt rocks that are connected to each other. The porous insulation tolerates temperatures up to + 1000˚C, which means that it is fire resistant. The cellular structure absorbs extraneous noise, and the hydrophobic components help not absorb moisture. However, basalt wool contains phenol, which is harmful.
Slag wool is obtained as a result of processing waste from the production of metallurgy, consists of pores. Has a high coefficient of thermal insulation. Among the disadvantages - it gets wet quickly, therefore it is not suitable for insulating the facade of a wooden house. It is best used for thermal insulation of panel walls.
Polyfoam is widely used to insulate the facades of wooden houses. One of quick ways thermal insulation, applicable to different types of walls. Microorganisms do not start in this light material, it does not deform. But it is highly flammable and emits harmful substances. There is foam, impregnated with a special composition, it is better to work with it. There is still a risk that rodents will start in the foam, but if correct styling this is out of the question. When buying polystyrene as a material for insulating facades of private houses, choose slabs high density, up to 5 cm thick. They come in three sizes: 50 x 100 cm, 100 x 100 cm and 200 x 100 cm.
Installation of foam sheets on the facade of the house
Ecowool. It contains waste paper, boric acid, sodium tetraborate. Ecowool is used in rooms with high humidity. It absorbs moisture well, which, with good ventilation, releases it into the atmosphere. Disadvantages - a gradual decrease in the level of thermal conductivity, a decrease in volume. This can be avoided by laying insulation with a margin.

Ecowool is mounted by special boring - an inflatable pneumatic device. In this case, you will need services for warming the facades of private houses, which will be provided by specialists with experience in working with ecowool. After all, its installation depends on the state of the atmosphere in the area. With a dry method, dust may form, with a wet method, the material will dry for a long time.

Method of laying heat-insulating material - ecowool

The latter method is more reliable: ecowool is evenly distributed and compacted, the level of sound and thermal insulation of the building increases.
It is not recommended to use ecowool near the fire, otherwise it will smolder.

Pros of ecowool:

it does not contain harmful substances;
has an increased;
low material consumption.

For finishing and insulation of facades, expanded polystyrene or its other name is used - penoplex. The material is made of polystyrene foam. It has low moisture absorption, smooth surface, strength, but low adhesion. Watch the video instruction on the correct insulation of the facade of the house from the outside.

The procedure for performing insulation with mineral wool

Installation is carried out using the following technology:

Scheme and construction of facade insulation with mineral wool

make a crate and place suspensions;
for rigidity during the laying of the material, profiles are used;
the plates are tightly inserted into the cells of the frame and fixed with dowels and glue;
the joints are carefully processed;
performed .

Then the surface is plastered or sheathed with clapboard.

Ventilated and non-ventilated facades

The main sign of ventilated insulation is the presence of a ventilated gap between the wall, in which the air currents draw out the moisture formed on the walls. Sometimes a combined technology is used: the building is finished with large aerated concrete slabs, and then the cladding is performed in a "wet" way with clinker tiles or artificial stone.

Wooden houses are traditional for Russian cities and villages - they reliably serve their owners for a lot decades and even often step over the century-old milestone. But sooner or later the time comes when the insulation of a wooden house outside becomes a necessary measure, since, under the influence of wind, moisture and ultraviolet rays, the details of the walls dry out and become covered with cracks, through which cold gets into the rooms without much difficulty. To reduce heating costs, you need to invest in wall insulation, and this will pay off already in the first winter.

Having carried out the exterior, the homeowner will solve three problems at once - make the house warm, reduce the penetration of street noise into the rooms and update the exterior design of the building.

But, before buying material and getting to work, you need to find out which of the modern heaters is best suited for a wooden building, and in what sequence it is necessary to install it.

At the moment, the most popular materials for insulation wooden buildings outside there is expanded polystyrene in panels and mineral wool of various types, produced in the form of mats or rolls. But, besides them, in recent years, sprayed insulation compounds, such as penoizol or ecowool, as well as thermal panels, which include not only an insulation layer, but also a decorative finish, have been increasingly used.

Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is the most affordable material for insulation. It has good performance characteristics and allows significant savings in heating costs.

Expanded polystyrene is produced by panels of various thickness, size 1 × 1 and 1 × 0.5 m, density from 15 to 40 kg / m³. For insulation outdoor work, a material of average density - about 25kg / m³ and thickness from 50 mm. It must be remembered that the higher the density of the insulation, the lower its thermal insulation qualities, but the higher the resistance to stress. Therefore, high-density polystyrene foam is used mainly for floor insulation.

Expanded polystyrene is light, as it consists of a foamed mass filled with air, therefore it becomes a good barrier for both cold and sound waves. Expanded polystyrene has a low thermal conductivity and therefore guarantees long-term preservation of the heat accumulated in the room.

It is easy to cut and fasten to the wall. It is resistant to temperature extremes and ultraviolet light, and also almost does not absorb moisture, therefore it has a fairly long service life.

But, in addition to numerous advantages, expanded polystyrene has its own significant disadvantages:

low mechanical strength - the material breaks down and crumbles quite easily, therefore, after fixing on the wall, it will require protection with mesh reinforcement and decorative coating;
ordinary expanded polystyrene cannot be called non-combustible, and when exposed to high temperatures, it turns into a fluid burning mass and releases substances hazardous to the human body. Only extruded polystyrene foam is considered nonflammable, or rather, self-extinguishing, and it is recommended to use it for insulating wooden buildings.
if you plan to fix the plates with glue, then you need to find out in advance whether it is suitable for use with expanded polystyrene, since some substances destroy this material.

Rating of expanded polystyrene for the facade

	Photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1			⭐ 100 / 100
#2			⭐ 99 / 100
#3			⭐ 98 / 100
#4			⭐ 96 / 100
#5			⭐ 95 / 100

Foamed polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm COTTAGE

Characteristic:

quantity in the package 10 pcs;
dimensions 100 × 120 cm;
thickness 100 mm;
the area of one sheet is 1.2 m²;
package area 12 m²;
applied
thermal conductivity coefficient 0.048 W / (m⋅K).

Foamed polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm COTTAGE

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Characteristic:

the amount in the package is 7 pcs;
dimensions 118 × 60 cm;
thickness 50 mm;
the area of one sheet is 0.7 m²;
packing area 4.9 m²;
for internal and external work;
tongue-and-groove plate;
minimum operating temperature -50 ° C;
maximum operating temperature 75 ° C.

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

NSCharacteristic:

material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
quantity in the package 8 pcs;
dimensions 118.5 × 58.5 cm;
thickness 50 mm;
the area of one sheet is 0.7 m²;
packing area 5.6 m²;
for internal and external work;
area of application: for floors, for walls, for ceilings, for roofs;
tongue-and-groove plate;

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Characteristic:

material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
quantity in the package 8 pcs;
dimensions 240 × 60 cm;
thickness 50 mm;
the area of one sheet is 1.4 m²;
area in the package 11.2 m²;
for external work;
area of application: for floors, for roofs;
tongue-and-groove plate;
maximum operating temperature 75 ° C;
thermal conductivity coefficient 0.033 W / (m⋅K).

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Characteristic:

material - extruded polystyrene foam (XPS);
quantity in the package 20 pcs;
dimensions 120 × 60 cm;
thickness 20 mm;
the area of one sheet is 0.7 m²;
packing area 14 m²;
for internal and external work;
minimum operating temperature -70 ° C;
maximum operating temperature 75 ° C;
thermal conductivity coefficient 0.032 W / (m⋅K).

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex

Installation of expanded polystyrene insulation

The panels are attached to the surface in two ways - on the lathing or directly on the wall plane with the help of glue and fastenings - "umbrellas" ("fungi"). The choice of technique depends on the surface on which it will be mounted.

If the house was built from a bar and its walls have flat surfaces, you can use both options, but it is easier to get by with glue.

Before installing the insulation, the surface must be inspected for cracks and cracks. If there are any, then they must be repaired. The process can be carried out different ways- this is the plugging of cracks with lime-treated tow or sealing modern materials, such as sealant or construction foam.
After that wooden surface must be treated - it will protect it from harmful insects and the formation of moss or mold spots.
When the antiseptic is dry, you can start installing the insulation. To make it stick well to the wall, you can lightly walk on its surface with an iron brush.
Insulation installation starts from the bottom corner of the wall. For the convenience of fastening and the evenness of the first row of panels, it is recommended to install a special profile in this place. It should have a width that matches the thickness of the material.

Plates are coated with a solution of special building glue, pointwise and along the edge, and then applied and pressed against the wall. They should be tightly pressed against each other, creating a single surface. If gaps have formed between the panels, then after the glue has dried and fixed to the wall, they must be sealed with mounting foam.

After removing the first row, the subsequent rows are attached according to the system brickwork, in a dressing.

After waiting 3-4 days after mounting the plates to the wall, they must be fixed with fasteners - "mushrooms". Each slab must be fixed with 5-6 similar elements. The mountings should have a leg length several centimeters greater than the thickness of the insulation, for example, if the insulation is 50 mm thick, then the "fungus" should be chosen with a 100 mm leg. When hammered, the cap must enter the expanded polystyrene plate flush with its surface.

Fixation of fastening - "fungus"

When all the insulation is installed, you can start reinforcing polystyrene foam - this is done using a fiberglass mesh-serpyanka.

At all corners of the building, you need to install special corners with a mesh fixed to them, they are fixed with glue.

Corner reinforcing mesh - serpyanka

A wide mesh is fixed to the rest of the surface, which is realized in rolls. It is laid with an overlap of 70-100 mm also on the glue mass. Serpyanka should, as it were, drown in the glue. Having fixed it on the surface of expanded polystyrene, they are passed over it with a spatula from the center to the edges - according to the herringbone system, removing excess glue.
When the glue on the reinforcing layer dries up, the wall needs to be covered with a primer mixture - decorative plaster will fit well on it.

In this case, you can only make decorative plaster finishing - siding or there will be simply nothing to fix the lining. But on the plastered walls, you can fix a light finishing material, for example, plastic tiles for a brick or stone.

Find out detailed information with instructions on how, from our new article.

Since the installation work according to the second option (along the crate) is carried out in the same way as with mineral wool insulation, they will be discussed below.

Why it is worth insulating the house

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is not a new insulation material, it is time-tested, as it has been used for decades, and during this period it has not lost its popularity at all.

One of the best heaters- mineral wool

Mineral wool consists of numerous fibers held together by special compounds. Three different types of mineral wool are produced, and they differ in the basic material of manufacture - stone wool, glass wool and slag wool.

Of course, they also have other differences - they are moisture resistance, thermal conductivity, resistance to some external influences, as well as the thickness and length of the fibers.

Slag

This material is made from blast-furnace slags, which, after processing, are drawn into fibers with a length of 10 to 20 mm and a thickness of up to 10 microns.

When choosing insulation for the facade, this option must be abandoned immediately, since it is hydroscopic. Moisture can cause mold to develop inside the material. In addition, if it is located next to metal profile, then an oxidative reaction can occur, since the slags have residual acidity in their composition.

Slag wool has a sufficiently high thermal conductivity for insulation, and according to this characteristic, it is also not quite suitable for insulating the walls of private housing.

Glass wool

Glass wool is made by melting molten glass, the fiber length of the material is from 15 to 45 mm, and the thickness is not more than 12-15 microns. This insulation is well suited for protecting walls from the cold outside - glass wool is heat-resistant and non-hygroscopic. In addition, it is lightweight and has good elasticity. Glass wool is produced in mats or rolls, and due to its elasticity, the packaging does not have excessively large volumes, since the material is easily compressed.

Glass wool made in mats is denser and more durable. It not only insulates the walls well, but also perfectly protects from the wind, and, in addition, it is much easier to install it between the battens of the sheathing.

Disadvantage - when installing it, you need to carefully protect your eyes, face and hands, respiratory organs, since thin glass fibers, if they get on fabrics, can injure them or cause severe irritation. Therefore, when working with this material, it is necessary to wear a respirator, goggles, gloves and a protective suit.

Stone wool

Basalt rocks are used as raw materials for the manufacture of stone wool. It, like other types of insulation, consists of fibers, has low thermal conductivity and high hydrophobicity, as well as the ability to withstand high temperatures therefore it can be called a heat-resistant material. This type of cotton wool is not so elastic, so its shape and volume are quite stable. Thanks to all its positive characteristics, it is excellent for facade insulation.

Basalt (stone) wool - a material with practically no flaws

Basalt wool is produced in the form of rolls or slabs, it can be denser or softer, but for the walls it is necessary to choose the most dense material.

All of the above types of mineral wool are classified by hardness. This indicator needs to be clarified, since not all brands are suitable for facade insulation. For such work, you need to choose a material of the ПЖ-175 brand - this is a rigid plate, or ППЖ -200, which means an increased rigidity of the plate.

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

Installation of an insulating layer of mineral wool is carried out with a crate installed on the wall - this method can also be used for insulation with expanded polystyrene. It is suitable for both flat and log surfaces.
In this case, a crate made of timber or galvanized metal profiles is installed on the walls, between which plate or roll insulation is fixed.

In order to achieve the best insulation effect and keep the walls safe from moisture, it is advised to pre-fix the vapor barrier material under the crate.
It must be remembered that the lathing bars are installed at a distance from each other, which should be less than the width of the insulation by 5 cm. This is required so that it fits snugly between two adjacent guides. If the material will be mounted in two layers, then it is necessary to provide for the thickness of the bars to be installed - it must correspond to two layers of insulation.

There are several ways how to fix the crate, and which one to choose is up to the owner of the house, depending on the quality of the insulation and the evenness of the wall.
After installing the battens of the crate, insulation mats are laid between them, starting from the bottom row. In order for them not to slip, you can connect all the bars from below with a supporting rail.

In the event that roll material is used, the installation starts from the top, securing the upper edge to the "mushrooms". The rest of the fixing elements will be installed later.
Then, the installed insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film. She often completely covers the entire wall, fixing it on the bars with staples. Sometimes it fits only on the insulation, but the first option is preferable.

Further, all the insulation material, together with the vapor barrier, is fixed with "fungi" to the wall.
Fixed on top of the lathing decorative trim- it can be siding or lining. Installation rules for such finishes are considered separately, in other publications.

A decorative coating is mounted on top of the lathing - siding, block house or other materials

If the lathing is installed vertically, then the sheathing will be horizontal and vice versa. This point must be taken into account when installing bars or profiles. It also happens otherwise - with insulation in two layers. First, the first lathing is done horizontally, then, after laying the first layer of insulation, a second lathing is mounted along the beams, perpendicular to the first. After laying the second layer of mineral wool - everything is the same as described above.

Video - An example of wall insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

Sprayed heaters

In addition to materials in the form of mats and rolls, in recent times began to use liquid insulation, which is sprayed on the walls. These include such as ecowool and polyurethane. When choosing such insulation, you should pay attention to their characteristics - they can be an excellent alternative mineral wool or rigid polystyrene foam.

Polyurethane foam

A wooden house covered with polyurethane foam can be considered protected from negative processes of mold, exposure to dampness, wind, low and high temperatures for many years.

A modern method of thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam

However, this method of spraying is rarely used, since it requires special equipment and good skills, and inviting a professional with special equipment is quite expensive. Nevertheless, it should be borne in mind that the service life of this material reaches fifty years, while other heaters become unusable after a shorter period. Therefore, having once spent on insulation, you can forget about repairing the facade for many years.

After covering the walls with polyurethane foam, they acquire properties such as hydrophobicity, low thermal conductivity, resistance to almost any external influences.

The advantages of this technology also include the following qualities:

excellent adhesion when applied;
lack of fasteners;
the material penetrates into all the small holes and crevices of the wall, preventing cold air from penetrating into the interior of the building;
compatibility with any materials;
the formation of a seamless coating on the surface, which is very important for the heat-saving effect;
the coating does not require repair and renovation for many years;
it does not grow mold and is not damaged by rodents.

Application of polyurethane foam

Any surface for mounting sprayed materials must be prepared. In particular, bars of such a size are nailed to its surface, what thickness is planned to arrange a spraying layer - this will become a kind of beacons. The protruding solidified portions of the foam will be cut along these guidelines.

The device, when applying insulation, works under high pressure- more than 100 atmospheres. The master uses a pneumatic gun to spray the material on the surface of the wall. Once on the surface, the polyurethane foams in 2–3 seconds. The setting and the beginning of curing of the polyurethane foam occurs almost immediately.

To achieve the desired effects of heat and sound insulation, the coating must be sprayed in three layers.

Spray-on polyurethane is classified into indoor and outdoor materials. For external application we can use "Ecotermix 300", "HEATLOK SOY"

For example, the video shows the application of polyurethane to wooden walls from the inside of a house. The spraying process on the outside is practically no different.

Video - Spraying polyurethane foam insulation

Ecowool

Ecowool is a heat-insulating and sound-insulating material, also applied by spraying. The raw material for its manufacture is recycled cellulose with the addition of borax and boric acid, which are non-toxic and non-volatile. The insulation looks like a gray powder.

Another method of thermal insulation of walls is spraying ecowool

The ecological purity of the material is confirmed by the fact that it does not contain synthetic compounds and petroleum products, other substances capable of emitting vapors hazardous to human health.

When the material is applied to the surface, it fills all holes and voids, forming a monolithic insulating layer without joints.

Borax and boric acid additives are excellent antiseptics for insulation, which do not allow any forms of biological life to dilute in its thickness.

Important positive quality ecowool for a wooden building is his heat resistance - material smolders, but does not ignite with an open flame.

Applying an insulating layer of ecowool

The wooden surface for spraying must be prepared - a crate of the required size is fixed to it - it will regulate the thickness of the spraying. In addition, it will play the role of supporting elements so that the not completely solidified material does not slide out from under its own weight.

For spraying ecowool on the walls, a special installation is required, into the bunker of which dry material is poured. There it is loosened and moistened, and is applied to the surface through a special gun under pressure. The process itself is quite simple, but it cannot be carried out without a special apparatus.

Video - The technological process of spraying ecowool on wooden walls

In addition to the above materials and technologies, today there are many other heaters. Therefore, if the goal is to make the house warm and save family money on energy costs every day, then you can always find a material that is suitable for all criteria.

How to deal with the required thickness of the insulation?

The thickness of the insulating layer depends on the thickness of the wooden walls and the climatic characteristics of the region of residence.

It is important to know the required thickness of insulation. An excessive "fur coat" for a wooden house can only damage, and an insufficient one will not allow creating comfortable living conditions. In addition, this parameter directly affects the structure of the frame - it is important to know how far from the wall its guides should be placed under the outer one. Making independent calculations is not so difficult, especially if you use the proposed calculation method.

The bottom line is what total resistance to heat transfer of a multi-layer structure wall R should not be less than calculated for a specific climatic region of the country. For convenience, these values are plotted on the RF map. In this case, we are interested in the upper value (purple numbers) - for the walls.

The wall is not only the frame itself, but also interior decoration(if there is one and is it planned, the layer of thermal insulation and the external finish of the facade (important - the external finish, made according to the principle of a ventilated facade, is not taken into account). For each layer, its thermal resistance index is calculated.

For example, the following diagram can be given:

1 - wooden wall (timber or log). There is a nuance - the thickness of the log wall (on the right) may be slightly less than that of the timber. It is worth paying attention to when measuring and further calculations.

2 - walls, if any. Often, in log houses, the walls in the premises are left not sheathed - so as not to lose the naturalness of the coating. But they may well be sheathed with drywall (for painting or wallpapering), plywood, natural clapboard or panels made of wood composites, OSB sheets, etc.

3 - The layer of thermal insulation - it is its thickness that must be determined.

The structure can have several layers. So, if the outside provides for cladding without a ventilated gap, close to the thawing material (for example, using a natural board or lining). then it will also need to be taken into account.

The figure also marked:

4 — vapor permeable diffuse membrane.

5 - details of the frame (lathing).

6 - siding or lining, mounted on the principle of a ventilated facade, with a gap (7). Here is such a finish, as already mentioned, from what material it would be made, it will not make any tangible contribution to the total thermal resistance of the wall structure, and we do not take it into account.

So, in order to determine the required thickness of insulation, you need to know the thickness of each layer and the coefficient of their thermal conductivity.

Rn = Hn / λn

Hn- the thickness of a particular layer.
λn- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material from which the layer is made.

As a result, the calculation formula takes the following form

Hу = (R– H1 / λ1 - H2 / λ2 - H3 / λ3 ...) × λу

Well- the thickness of the insulation.
λу- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the selected thermal insulation material.

It is not difficult to find coefficients for various materials in reference books - there are a lot of them on the Internet. Measuring the thickness of the existing layers is also not difficult.

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