Do-it-yourself timber house. Technologies for building houses from a bar: pros, cons, stages How to make a house from a bar correctly

The decision to build a house from a bar is not made immediately and not suddenly. It's just that this technology, with a simpler assembly of walls, allows you to get excellent characteristics for housing: for the Moscow region, a 195 mm thick bar is enough. With such a thickness of the outer walls, it will be warm, but to save on heating, it is better to insulate it (outside of 10 mm mineral wool) and make a reclaimable facade. Then there will also be savings on heating.

Plasticity in processing is one of the advantages of wood

Which wood to choose

For the construction of a house, coniferous wood is usually used. There are several reasons. Firstly, increased content resins that are natural preservatives and antiseptics. Due to their presence, wood is not destroyed for a long time. Secondly, affordable price... You can, of course, build a house from beech or oak beams, but the price will be simply exorbitant. Thirdly, the wood is soft and easy to process.

Of all the conifers, a house made of pine logs is most often put. With good performance, it is relatively inexpensive. Houses made of larch and cedar are rarely installed: they are too expensive. Spruce is even less common, but for a different reason: it is destroyed the fastest of all, and even difficult to process. So with regard to the type of wood, there is, in fact, no choice. In 95% it is pine. But it is necessary to deal with the type of timber.

According to the method of processing, the timber can be:

• Plain or solid, non-planed timber. Sawed from a solid log, the cross-section is a quadrangle (square or rectangle).
• Profiled timber. It is also cut from a solid log, but after that it is processed: spikes and grooves are formed by cutters - profiles, with the help of which one bar is joined to another. The side faces are also processed. They come out of the machine already planed. The section is of a complex shape. Side faces can be even, rounded, curly - with chamfers, the shape of the "lock" - numerous barbs and grooves.
• Glued laminated timber. Outwardly similar to profiled, but assembled (glued) from several boards.

Let's analyze the features of each of the types of timber, regarding the construction of a house.

House made of ordinary timber

If earlier they said that they decided to build a house from a bar, then they definitely understood an ordinary rectangular bar. There was simply no other, or it was too expensive: it was brought from abroad. Ordinary timber is the most affordable price per cubic meter. But, as a result of all the required measures, the cost of construction may turn out to be higher than from the profiled one. It's all about the features of the material. They lead to significant additional costs even at the construction stage: when building a house from unplaned timber, a mezhventsovy heater is necessarily used. Its geometry is imperfect, and if this is not done, the blowing through the gaps between the crowns will be sooooo strong. The second feature is that the surface of the walls turns out to be uneven and you cannot do without finishing inside and out.

In addition to laying the inter-crown layer, the delivered log house is caulked, additionally sealing the seams. Caulk is needed not one, but at least two, sometimes more. And all because it is made of wood natural moisture... In practice, this has the following consequences:

Another feature of a house made of ordinary timber: the walls are uneven. To give them a "decent" look, they are either sheathed finishing materials, or polished. But grinding is a controversial undertaking: the inter-lead seal makes it almost impossible. Even if you manage to grind the timber, what to do with the seams?

So it turns out that the cost of the house as a result may be higher: add to the cost of the timber an inter-crown insulation, caulking material and the work itself (and it is not cheap), the cost of external and internal finishing. Note also that moldings are brought to your site - bars of the ordered length. The bowls are cut out on the spot. This means that the qualifications of the carpenters must be high. How warm the corners will be depends on how the cut is made. And in log house it is the corners that are the most problematic place.

Features of the profiled bar

Considering the profiled timber, the first thing that catches your eye is the almost perfect geometry and smooth surfaces... In any case, it should be so. With good workmanship, finishing is not needed: the wall immediately turns out to be even and smooth, even if immediately for painting.

The second, also quite obvious feature, is due to the fact that the edges that join two profiled beams have recesses and protrusions (locks) of through slots cannot be. Manufacturers of profiled beams say that walls can be laid without inter-row insulation: it will be warm anyway. But few people listen to them. They put at least a thin, but insulation. Someone uses a thin underlay for the laminate, someone uses self-expanding tape for installation plastic windows as well as jute tape and similar materials.

In the photo, by the way, the most widespread profile among developers lately is “comb”. It can have a "tooth" of different heights and widths, and is loved by everyone because, in theory, it is impossible to "blow" it. Nevertheless, here they are insured by laying insulation.

Several typical timber profiles (the two extreme ones on the right in the picture are glued timber, but the same profile is made from solid wood)

In general, there are a lot of profiles. Some of them are in the photo. When choosing a supplier, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the shape of the locks, but also to how they are made. The match in any pair should be maximum.

Having made the decision to build a house from a bar with a profile, you need to decide on its moisture content. Profiled timber can be of natural moisture (cheaper), sometimes it is chamber drying with a moisture content of no more than 14-16%. The features of lumber of natural moisture have already been considered, now let's talk about chamber drying. The enterprise installs large drying cabinets, into which the finished profiled timber is loaded. There, in conditions of high temperatures, it loses excess moisture. At the same time, all the processes that usually accompany the drying of wood take place in the chamber: it bursts, it twists. Accordingly, part of it goes to waste, and the rest is sold at a higher price. The reasons seem to be clear.

If you decide to build a house from a kiln-dried timber, you can start finishing earlier. The blockhouse should still stand, but it will take 9-12 months. In this case, new cracks are rarely formed, only existing ones expand. But it should be borne in mind that due to the high costs of drying, most often they only reduce the humidity to operational - 16-18%, while wood is considered to be 8-12% for chamber drying.

In any case, the gap will need to be filled. Caulking is needed in very limited volumes: first of all, you will have to look through all the corners and cuts, if any (this is the name of the attachment points of the walls). Even a well-made bowl can dry out unevenly when it comes to gaps. Also, the beam can be turned out, which will also lead to the appearance or expansion of the gap. So a periodic revision of the corners is also required during operation. Wood is a living material, and something will change all the time. Also, after a year of sludge, too large cracks in the timber will have to be repaired (without fanaticism, so that the tow does not open up the crack).

The blockhouse is assembled from numbered blanks with a molded bowl (numbers in blue at the ends)

The situation with the assembly may be simpler. If you just order lumber, you can cut corners from a profiled bar, as from a usual one, on the site. But many enterprises, in the presence of a project, offer to take on part of the work. With the help of a special program, they make a layout on the timber: they make a list of "spare parts" from which the house will be assembled. Then, according to this list, blanks are cut out, and with molded thickets. The blanks are numbered and brought ready-made to the site, where it remains to fold the house, like a designer: folding the bars according to the numbers marked on the plan.

This is convenient, especially if you are going to build a house with your own hands without construction experience. It is clear that the service is not free, but you can save on paying for carpenters: assembling such a highly qualified designer is not required. Only in this case, whether your home will be warm or not, depends on how exactly the bowls are made in production. Sometimes there are firms that make very low-quality cuts. You can see several of these in the photo.

Poorly made bowls - the blowing will be incredible, and caulking will badly save

In general, there are disadvantages and advantages, but compared to a conventional bar, a profiled one is more convenient in construction, and at a price it can also come out cheaper if you count with finishing.

Glued laminated timber

It is clear from the name that it consists of glued parts. First, lamellas are cut out, they are treated with antiseptics, dried to a certain humidity, and then glued. Due to the complex manufacturing process, the price tag of this material is about 2.5-3 times higher than that of a regular one and 80-90% higher than that of a profiled one.

What are its advantages? Correctly made, it does not crack, it does not lead to it: dry material cannot have shrinkage, and glued beads should have a moisture content of no higher than 12-15%. Therefore, the finishing process, with a beam width sufficient to compensate for heat loss, can only be used for painting or varnishing, since protective impregnation is also carried out at the enterprise (it should, in any case).

What does glued laminated timber and its profiles look like?

Another consequence of the lack of shrinkage is that the folded log house can be immediately put under the roof after a few weeks, and after a few more weeks, finishing can be started. This time is necessary for the bowls to shrink, and the geometric dimensions of the laminated veneer lumber should not change. That is, a significant time saving is obtained - everything, including finishing work, can be done in one season.

But is glued bead so good? In terms of construction speed, yes. But it has serious drawbacks. First: it is glued. This negates one of the main advantages of wood - environmental friendliness. Second, it has low vapor permeability. Many people put up wooden houses precisely because of their ability to naturally regulate indoor humidity. Glued laminated timber is deprived of this due to the presence of layers of glue. Of all the advantages of wood, only attractive remains appearance, but, finished with a clapboard of the corresponding profile or block house, it looks exactly the same. Therefore, the use of glued beams for building a house is a very controversial issue.

Stages of building a house from a bar

A log house has several advantages:

• The walls are lightweight, which is why the load on the foundation is low, which means that the costs for its construction will be lower.
• Wood is an elastic material and it compensates for small movements of the foundation without compromising the integrity of the building. And this, again, allows making shallow foundations on well-draining soils.

The choice of the type of foundation depends largely on the soil, but most often they do it, if there is no need for a basement, you can put a columnar one (for small buildings for temporary residence - summer cottages, baths, etc.) or without). The choice should preferably be based on the results of geological studies. The process is described in more detail.

While the foundation “grasps”, prepare the wood. All timber and dowels are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Compositions are used that do not form a film on the surface of the log. They will not interfere with the drying process. After the preparation of the timber, the actual construction of the house begins:

• Cut-off waterproofing. To prevent wood from the foundation from pulling moisture, it is necessary to lay a layer of hydrophobic material. Previously, two layers of roofing material were laid under the first crown. Today there are more modern materials- coating and roll. You can use them, and in combination: coat, stick roll.
• Laying the flap. The beam is chosen without signs of blue, with a minimum number of knots. Desirable - from the middle part of the tree - with the maximum density of annual rings. It is additionally treated with impregnations intended for wood in direct contact with the ground. In order to ensure the best preservation of the first crown, there is a trick: a wide board, impregnated with bitumen mastic with mining, is laid on the waterproofing. Another layer of waterproofing is placed on it, and on top is already the first crown. All these layers are connected to the foundation by pins, which are embedded in the foundation.
• Rough floor. Floor logs are attached to the first crown - a bar with a section of 150 * 100 mm. They are laid out with a step of at least 70 cm. To make it more convenient to work, boards of the subfloor are laid out on the logs without nailing them.
• Assembly of walls from a bar. If a wall kit with ready-made bowls is not ordered, they are "stabbed". Saw out according to the template. A template is drawn from a piece of plywood, it is circled, then cut out. A chainsaw is used more often, but a fairly high degree of ownership of the tool is required: how warm the house will be depends on the accuracy of the saw. The joining shapes of the timber are shown in the picture.

We have already spoken about laying the mezhventsovy insulation: when using a regular bar, it is mandatory, under profiled - it is desirable in bowls, the rest is optional. The crowns are interconnected by pins - long round bars carved from a solid piece of wood, dowels - rectangular or hairpins - metal rods. In any case, a hole is drilled under the connection, into which the connecting element is hammered.

• The order of work depends on the type of roof chosen. When the device is idle, set under rafter legs, when the order is different. The assembled rafter system is rolled out and fixed windproof membrane... In this form, the house is left for a long period of time to dry out.
• Door and window openings. For speedy shrinkage and shrinkage, you can cut out window and door openings, put a window or fixing strips. Door and window blocks are not placed until the end of the main shrinkage.

After a year or two, you can start finishing works... All the time, while the blockhouse is standing, it is necessary to monitor the processes taking place in the wood. It is immediately necessary to inspect the corners and, if necessary, drill them. Then monitor their condition, as well as the joints of the bar. If the pins were driven in with great effort, during shrinkage, the timber can hang on them, which causes cracks to form. You can solve the problem by rambling around: they take a huge wooden hammer and knock on the walls, causing faster shrinkage. The same technique is used if the house sits down too slowly.

The video shows the main steps on how to build a house from a bar. Despite the lyrical digressions, there is a lot of valuable information.

How to build a house from a bar: photo report

They built such a house.

We ordered a wall kit according to the project, a strip foundation was poured under it.

They brought blanks with washed down bowls. They were carefully unloaded, while inspecting for flaws. One beam turned out to be problematic - it was in the middle of the ligament and suffocated - it became covered with a fungus. It was postponed for a separate "treatment". The rest were covered with impregnation (Valti Pohusta) and piled up.

So that there are no problems with the fungus, a gasket is laid under each - boards lying across.

Also, rolls of insulation and dowels were purchased. Nageli was sent to swim in the impregnation. IN old bath they poured the impregnation and left them for half a day, then they took them out and dried them.

On the waterproofing laid on the foundation, the first crown was laid out - a half-beam. It has no grooves at the bottom.

It was pulled to the foundation with anchors to the studs poured into concrete.

The first crown was laid. The one that was previously fixed on the foundation is often called "zero".

We measure the diagonals. In order for the cups to fit without problems and there is no distortion, they must be equal. Allowable misalignment is a couple of millimeters.

Having aligned the diagonals, we drill the holes for the dowels. So that there are no holes larger / smaller than necessary in length, a limiter tree was planted on the drill.

The walls are gradually growing. We fasten them in a checkerboard pattern with pins.

In general, the timber is more or less normal, but there are problems with incorrectly washed down cups. When laying the timber, we get a huge gap. The fight against this is only to manually adjust the cups so that everything lies flat.

It takes a long time to eliminate these inconsistencies, but gradually all the walls are laid out.

Profiled timber walls kicked out

Let's start assembling rafter system... First, as is customary, the two extreme farms are installed, then - everything else, according to the project.

The finished crate was sheathed with roofing felt. So let's leave the house to dry.

Inside we lay out the boards of the subfloor, nailing every fifth one. They will dry with the house.

Related Videos

The mistakes that are made during the construction of houses from profiled timber are described in detail and discussed in this video. Very helpful. Take a look.

The technology of assembling a log house from a bar for a house or a bath

Organization of a workplace for assembling walls

To make the work work, the beams are laid out in a pile at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or better - on both sides of it. Each layer of beams in a stack is stacked on pads made of boards.

Next to the pile, a workplace is equipped for marking and cutting beams. A variant of the arrangement of such a workplace is shown in the figure.

It is convenient to mark the timber using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low pads in the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to cut the bar with a chain saw.

The cut timber is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate lifting, slopes are arranged - inclined beams, which with their upper end rest on the upper crown of the frame. The beam is moved along the slopes with a rope.

Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make the lifting of the beam safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow small forces to be dispensed with. Even one person can, if necessary, raise the bar, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.

It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a log house from a bar with a team of four people. You can also work together, just work will go slower.

For the installation of the upper rims of the log house and the roof, scaffolding is erected.

Three-tiered scaffolding on the pediment of the house. 1 - extreme racks; 2 - L-shaped post of scaffolding of the first tier on the side facade; 3 - flooring; 4 - central racks; 5 - cross braces (shown conditionally); 6 - lugs

The assembly of the upper rims of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on L-shaped racks, pos. 2 in the figure. Racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls using bosses, pos. 6.

At the stage of erecting the roof (attic), on the facades, where the device of gables is necessary, it is necessary to make scaffolding in three tiers. For the device of scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used mm. Flooring is made of the same boards.

It is more convenient, faster and safer to work from scaffolding than from stairs - do not forget about this.

Marking beams for wall assembly

Practical experience in construction shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.

Before starting work, a diagram of the assembly of the walls of the house is drawn, on which they indicate: the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.

An example of a house wall assembly scheme is shown in the figure:

Scheme for marking the corner joints of the timber and the joints of the parts of the longitudinal walls, for a house with dimensions of 6x9 meters. BUT and WITH- longitudinal walls; D and B- transverse walls; E- inner wall from a bar - a partition; 1 - the joints of the bars.

At the house, which is shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of beams from 3 to 6 length m.

The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main bar with a standard length of 6 meters and an extension, 3 meters long. On one crown, long beams are laid on the left, and on the right - doborks. At the next crown, laying begins in a similar order, but on the right.

The details of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one bar of a standard length of 6 meters.

To exclude cold bridges in the outer walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, pos. 1, are performed by making vertical cuts "into the floor of the tree" with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The bar in the corners of the crowns is connected in a ligation with a root spine (see below for more details).

How to correctly and quickly mark out spikes, grooves and other profiles, ensure identity of the sizes of timber blanks?

The easiest way to do this is with templates. The template is placed on the bar and the contour of the template profiles is transferred with a marker to the surface of the bar.

It is more convenient, faster to mark up and there will be fewer errors if the template completely repeats the contour of the part, has the same length as the part being marked. I put the template on the timber and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.

For our example, you will need to make seven templates, according to the number of parts in the crown. Two mirrored wall details are marked with one template.

If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Let's consider how to make universal templates for marking the details of the longitudinal walls of the house (see above for the wall assembly diagram).

Two templates (highlighted yellow) for marking the timber of longitudinal walls. 4 - groove for the root spike; 5 - groove for the spike of the inner wall; 6 - sample; 7 - a bar of additional.

The figure above shows the template for marking the main bar in the crown, in which the add-on is located on the right. On the wall marking scheme, these are the crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.

Bottom template serves for marking the main bar in the crowns with an extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.

At first glance, the templates are the same, but differ in that the grooves, pos. 5, for connecting to the partition, are located in different places of the templates.

The same templates are used to mark the details of the add-ons. To do this, on templates in points b and with through holes were drilled, and in points but and d incisions are made.

To mark the finish, the template is placed on the timber and dots on the surface of the workpiece are punctured through the holes and cuts.

Remember this technique with the device of the holes in the template. This will help you create generic templates in many other cases.

The templates are made of a planed "inch" board.

As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse ones). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.

Now consider how templates are used. To mark the first bar of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is placed on the bar and the end of the template on the left is outlined with a marker, then two grooves and, finally, a selection for the connection "in the floor of the tree". The marked timber is transferred to the cutting site, where unnecessary fragments (they are better when marking out the
hatching) is cut with a chain saw.

How to mark out spiked parts? Obviously, the tenon and the groove are elements of the same node, which means they must correspond to each other in size and location. In a part with a spike, a spike is marked in place of the groove.

If the dimensions of the groove are 5 × 5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with a mezhventsovy heater.

The template profile is transferred to the upper edge of the bar. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the timber using a square. Neat cuts are carried out according to this marking.

How to assemble smooth walls from a bar of different widths

Specifications (TU) for the manufacture of a bar allow for a deviation of the size of the bar in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.

If the purchase documents indicate standard bar sizes, for example, section 150x150 mm. and a length of 6 meters, the actual dimensions will be different from the standard.

Each bar in a batch of timber brought to the construction site will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and the length of the bars will be different.

Dimensional variation must be taken into account when developing templates, marking timber and assembling walls.

How to assemble smooth walls if the timber is different in width and length?

b- the minimum width of the timber; delta b- the difference between a narrow and a wide beam.

Obviously, from a bar of different widths, only one surface of the wall can be made even - either outside or inside the building.

If you want to make a flat wall of the house outside, then all the beams in the wall are aligned along the outer edge. Then, inside the house, wide beams will protrude from the wall by the amount of "delta b"(The difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment to the outside edge will increase the gaps in the gusset of the beams (see illustration).

If the beams in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the "steps" of the protruding beams will be already on the outer surface of the wall. The outside wall is usually sheathed. And if the beams are chamfered from the outer edges, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without sheathing. Corner connections the bars are denser, "warmer".

How and what to connect the crowns of a log house

Each crown of the log house is connected to the lower crown with metal or wooden pins. The pins are placed at a distance of about 250-300 mm from the end of the bar and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the bar.

Each part of the crown is fixed with at least two pins. The length of the dowel should be at least 1.5 times greater than the height of the bar.

cm., pos. one.

Round steel pins with a diameter of 6-8 mm.- pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), simply hammer into the bars of the crowns, option a on the picture.

The upper ends of the dowels made of any material must be buried into the timber by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the timber dries and the log shrinks, the pins will be higher than the timber and raise the upper crown. A large gap forms between the crowns.

For the same reason it is impossible to make hammered pins from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the bars of the crowns from moving when the log shrinks, even if the dowel is buried in the timber. The crowns will simply hang on such pegs.

Small diameter steel driven pins cannot always provide the required wall stiffness, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install pins with an increased diameter.

Steel pins with a diameter of 10 millimeters or more, as well as wooden pins, are inserted into holes pre-drilled in the timber. The diameter of the holes is made slightly less than the diameter of the pin.

With a tight fit of the dowel in the hole, the stiffness of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels will interfere with the shrinkage of the frame increases.

Wooden pins with a diameter of 25-30 mm convenient to cut from round tool cuttings. These cuttings are made from hardwood. It is recommended to chamfer from the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.

Can be cut from regular board"Inch" pins with square section 25x25 mm. One end of the workpiece is chamfered. Such pins are driven into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.

The ribs of such a dowel made of relatively "soft" coniferous wood are crumpled when driven in, the wood is compacted, ensuring a sufficiently tight fit of the dowel in the hole.

How to properly drill holes in a bar for dowels

The depth of the holes in the wall for installing the dowels should be at least 4 cm. the length of the dowel. Moreover, the hole should be free of chips.

For drilling holes in a bar that are deep enough and large diameter, usually use a slow-speed electric drill (drill). The passport of the power tool usually indicates for what drilling diameter in a particular material the drill is designed. Considering the greater drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a power reserve.

To drill holes in the timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with a stop, as shown in the figure.

The stop bar is attached to the drill with steel clamps.

The emphasis, in the form wooden block, attached to the drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill cleans the hole from shavings, rubbing in and, then, easily gets out of the deep hole.

It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a bar that is already installed on the wall in the design position on the inter-crown insulation. But here usually a problem arises - the inter-row gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the spacer material are simply wrapped around the drill and clamped.

You have to install the timber on the wall in two steps. First, the timber is mounted without a gasket and temporarily fixed against displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for pins. Then the timber is pushed off the wall and a mezhventsovy heater is laid.

At drilling sites the gasket is cut with a sharp knife... Then, the removed beam is put back in place, already on the gasket, and fixed with pins.

Drilling holes in the timber laid on the wall should be done while standing on a solid foundation - scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. To stand on narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can "bite", the powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.

How to make a flat wall from a curved bar

In the timber brought to the construction site, some of the bars may turn out to be bent. The beam can have a curvature in one plane, or it can be twisted with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross-section.

If possible, it is better not to use curved beams for the walls of a house or a bath. Bars with curvature are recommended to be cut into smaller pieces and used in other less critical places.

A small amount of beams with curvature in one plane can be used for wall mounting. You should not lay such a bar into the wall with a bulge up or down, in the hope that it will straighten under the weight of the house - the bar will not straighten, even if it is placed in the lower rims.

The curved beam is laid in the wall, straightening it in the horizontal plane as shown in the figure.

The curved beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with dowels

A curved bar is drilled, aligning it at the drilling points with a straight bar. After laying the mezhventsovy insulation, the curved bar is fixed with a dowel at one end and unbending sequentially fixed with dowels at the other points.

To unbend the bar, much effort is not required. The lever and bracket will help facilitate the work.

Mezhventsovaya gasket - insulation, seal

For the cold, a gasket is placed between the crowns. Previously, moss or linseed tow was used for this. Currently, there are special liners on the market based on flax or flax. The material is sold as a roll of tape 20 cm.

The strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the timber in two or three layers and fixed with staples using a construction stapler.

If the wall is not sheathed, then from the outer edge of the timber the gasket should be 1-2 cm. otherwise it will get wet.

Some craftsmen lay the cushioning material in one layer and suggest caulking the joints after shrinking the log house, adding additional material to the voids of the joints. In this version, we have a lower consumption of cushioning material.

The work of caulking the joints is quite laborious and tedious. It is better to immediately lay the sealant thicker, in several layers (three layers), in order to eliminate the need for caulking the horizontal joints.

How to control the correct assembly of a log house

In the process of building a house or a bath, it is necessary to regularly check the correctness of the assembly of a log house from a bar. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:

• The verticality of the corners.
• The height of the corners and walls.
• The horizontality of the rims and the upper edges of the timber.
• The straightness of the walls.
• The quality of the installation of the mezhventsovy insulation.

For control of verticality of corners apply the following method.

To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is drawn on each side of the crown. 1 — bottom rail; 2 - crowns; 3 - control lines; 4 - base.

A vertical line is drawn on each side of the crown at the same distance from the corner edge.

At correct styling crowns, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked with a plumb line.

If deviations are found, then the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.

The height of the corners and walls is measured tape measure. Measurement is taken from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.

Horizontal crowns and top edges the timber is checked by level.

Straightness of walls determine visually by pulling a cord along the wall.

Especially carefully and constantly check the verticality and height of the corners. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the bar in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the spacer between the crowns in the settled corners. Sometimes it helps if you knock on a timber in a high corner with a sledgehammer.

The quality and thickness of laying the mezhventsovy insulation is checked visually by examining the walls.

Window and door openings in a log house

From the second crown, doorways begin to form. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen within 70 - 90 cm.

Laying timber in the crowns in the area of ​​the openings has its own characteristics.

but - layout of openings in the wall, where: 1 - wall; 2 - door opening; 3 - pier; 4 - window opening. in - the scheme of cutting a bar, where c is the remainder of the cutting. G - a variant of the device of an opening in a log house with the installation of temporary fastening beams, pos. 7. d - option with installation in the opening of the decks, pos. 6 - we immediately get the opening ready for the installation of a door or window.

In practice, two options are used for the formation of openings when assembling a log house.

One option is “ G" on the picture. The opening is done in a rough version, only preparation is made to create the opening. The opening is prepared for the installation of doors and windows not immediately during the assembly of the log house. This work is left for later - usually done after the shrinkage of the log house.

This option allows you to speed up the assembly of the log house. Beams must be installed in the opening, fastening the wall to the frame, pos. 7 in the figure. At least two such beams are installed in the doorway.

In the process of shrinkage of the log house, the walls can "take away" inward or outward. To prevent this, timber in the walls is fastened with vertically installed boards.

In another version - “ d»In the picture, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. For this, decks (windows) are installed in the openings - a vertical bar with a groove, pos. 6 in the figure. The groove includes the spike of the partition bar. In this way, the beam of the pier is fixed against displacement. In this version, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.

Decks (windows) traditionally serve not only to connect the timber in the opening, but also play the role window slopes, window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed, curly chamfers are removed.

Option for installing a window in a wall from a bar: 1 - finishing the window slopes; 2 - a board of a vertical window with a rail - a thorn, enters the groove of the wall bar; 3 - plastic window frame; 4 - PSUL sealing tape

In modern conditions, when installing plastic windows and arranging plastic slopes and window sills, a deck (window) can be omitted. The bars in the opening are fastened like this. At the ends of the beams along the entire length of the opening, a vertical groove is cut out and a rail is inserted there, which fixes the beams of the pier from displacement.

The length of the deck (okosyachki) or slats must be less height opening for 5-7 cm so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

A bar for a house, a bath in your city

How to correctly install windows in a wall from a bar

If the opening in the wall was made in a rough version (see above), then the installation of the window begins with sawing out the opening to the desired size. To do this, a rail is stuffed along the border of the cut, pos. 2 in the figure, and the bars are sawn off with a chain saw along the edge of the rail.

Correct installation windows in the wall from a bar. 1 - wall; 2 - rail; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - wall timber above the window; 7 - mezhventsovy insulation; 8 - shrinkage gap over the window and deck; 9 - window frames; 10 - wall timber (wall); 11 - deck; 12 - nail.

Then, with a circular saw, spikes are cut out at the ends of the beams of the wall (wall). On the spikes, pos. 10, a deck is inserted with a groove, pos. 11. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails driven in at an angle, pos. 12. So the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

A window box is inserted into the opening prepared in this way, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Over window box be sure to leave a gap, pos. 8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house... Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with a soft insulation material.

The expansion gap must also be left above the top end of the deck.

In a similar way, openings are prepared and inserted into the walls from the timber of the door.

After the completion of the assembly of the first floor of the house, the blockhouse is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the structure is one-story) overlap.

They can be a structural element. And they can also perform an independent function.

The next page describes the construction of a broken roof of a house made of timber, where the floor beams simultaneously serve as an element of the load-bearing frame of the attic roof.

Watch the video clip, which describes and shows in some detail the technology of installing a log house from a building bar.

The art of construction wooden house you can master it yourself. As a rule, the material is chosen from glued or profiled timber. It differs in the way it is made, but the construction technology is almost the same for each of them. The tree allows you to save on hiring workers, since 3 people will be able to build a house from a bar with their own hands. Heavy equipment is not needed for this, you just need to prepare a concrete mixer, a pump for concrete supply, a winch, a chainsaw and small tools.

What will the house be like?

The beam is used in low-rise private construction for the construction of houses not higher than 3 floors. Operational properties of the material, favorable internal microclimate, Beautiful design contribute to the choice of this particular material for building a house. A timber differs from a log in a rectangular shape, and this is its advantage, since it allows you to immediately get a flat surface. Its benefits are obvious: it is easy to make interior and exterior cladding, any interior details can be hung on the walls. Also, the use of timber eliminates cold bridges due to the precise fit of wooden elements.

The tree allows you to create an exclusive design project for any building: a small summer cottage, a one-story house, a luxury cottage. It can provide balconies with beautiful railings, cozy terraces, verandas. A multi-pitched roof more than other types of roofing decorates a building, especially if it has a large total area. A house project must be ordered from a professional organization. This will become a guarantee of taking into account the properties of the soil, correct calculation of the material, and compliance with construction technology.

It all starts from the foundation

A house made of timber has sufficient weight, therefore it requires a solid, reliable foundation. If you plan to make a basement or cellar under the house, choose a strip foundation. If the soil is wet, muddy, loose, the use of screw piles will be the right solution. A small house can be built on a slab solid foundation. In this case concrete base serves at the same time as a subfloor of the first floor.

The pile-grillage foundation is arranged in the same way as the strip foundation, but with the installation of concrete piles in the trenches. It is used on loose soils with a high level of freezing. The most popular is the strip foundation: it can withstand heavy loads, can be erected without the use of technology, the work technology is simple to perform. This type of foundation is suitable for all private houses, therefore, its construction is considered below.

First, markings are made exactly along the perimeter of the future house. Indicate the location of the carriers interior walls... According to the marking, trenches are dug, the width of which is 10 cm greater than the width of the walls. For the basement, it is necessary to dig a pit of the appropriate dimensions, for the cellar - a pit. The depth of the trenches should be greater than the level of soil freezing, but not less than 60 cm. A sand cushion of sand (10 cm) and gravel (10 cm) is poured at the bottom of the trenches, the layers are leveled. The sand should be moistened and compacted to ensure sufficient density. The pillow is poured with a thin layer of concrete (5 cm).

Formwork, reinforcement, concreting

For removable formwork, take a board of 25 mm and knock it down in the form of shields. They must rise above the level of the trench by at least 40 cm (the outer height of the foundation of the house, which is indicated in the project). Displacement of the formwork is prevented by the arrangement of spacers between the inner walls and the support boards from the outside.

Reinforcement is carried out with rods of 10 mm in 2 layers. The frame is laid first along, then across; the intersection points are fixed with knitting wire. It is important that the bars do not touch the formwork. The gap should be 5 cm. Concrete mortar can be made in two ways:

• the ratio of cement M400 and sand 1: 3;
• the ratio of M400 cement, sand and special additives is 1: 4: 4.

Concrete at the construction site can be kneaded in a concrete mixer, poured into trenches using a special concrete pump. It is important to prevent air bubbles from forming in the foundation before it hardens, therefore a cement vibrator must be used. The uncured surface is moistened with water to prevent the foundation from hardening too quickly. At this stage, DIY construction of a house from a bar is suspended for 20-30 days. This time is required for the foundation to completely solidify and the ability to apply the main load on itself.

The consumption of materials and the cost of the building depend on the method of assembling a house from a bar. You can reduce them if you choose the frame construction method, however, this article discusses the classic masonry of a house from a bar. Wood species most suitable for self-construction, easy to handle and at the same time inexpensive: larch, pine, spruce.

The first crown is laid on a double layer of roll insulation laid on the foundation. It is laid alternately with bitumen, heated to a liquid state. Thus, the following layers are obtained:

• bitumen,
• roofing material,
• bitumen,
• roofing material.

The width of the insulation exceeds the width of the foundation by 30 cm. Next, work with a bar begins. It is important that every detail is pre-treated with an antiseptic. It will protect the tree from rotting, damage by insect pests. They also use fire retardant compounds that protect wood from burning. Impregnation of each log separately is more effective than the entire building, since in the second case, untreated areas will remain at the joining points of the beams.

The very first board, lining, is rigidly attached to the foundation through a layer of waterproofing. An ebb tide is fixed to it, which will protect the frame from precipitation by diverting water. There are 2 ways to lay the first crown:

• on a lining board,
• on transverse slats.

The second option provides additional clearance, and hence ventilation. Slats 10 mm thick are attached across the foundation to the backing board in 30 cm increments. The length of the slats is equal to the width of the board. It is important here to constantly check the horizontal layout of the elements. Use is better laser level, you can oil-drip. The quality of the entire structure depends on the competent, unhurried assembly of the first crown. A bar of 150x150 mm is used for it.

Features of the connection of the bars

Profiled and glued beams have a 4-cornered profile, and for the construction of houses, cross-sectional dimensions of 140x140 mm and 90x140 mm are used. The front side can be convex or flat (for profiled timber; for glued timber it is always flat). On the upper and lower sides of the timber, a tongue-and-groove connection is made at the factory. It allows the elements to be connected as tightly and rigidly as possible. Each new row is laid on a layer of jute mezhventsovy insulation. The crowns are interconnected by vertical hammering of the dowel with a step of 1 m, to a depth of 30 cm.

More about insulation

Jute insulation eliminates the formation of cold bridges in winter. This prevents condensation of the facade, the growth of mold in the structure of the tree, and significantly increases the service life of the structure. Mezhventsovy insulation is better to buy in the form of a tape of suitable width. Fix it with a construction stapler.

It should be noted that the use of tow or flax does not prevent the appearance of microscopic gaps in the frame, since it is impossible to ensure the uniformity of the layer. The tape insulation is devoid of these shortcomings, it has the same thickness and high-quality non-woven fabric, connected by a needle-punched method.

How to lengthen the timber?

The length of the walls of the house often exceeds the length of the timber, and in this case it is required to carry out a competent connection of the joints. The assembly is carried out in a dressing, that is, the vertical seam of each next row is displaced relative to the previous one. For a strong connection of the joints, they make a cut in half a tree along the timber. After joining, rigidity is ensured by driving the pins. The reliability of the connection can be increased by placing the joint on the partition.

Window and doorways are arranged with masonry of a shorter beam. In these places, only solid material is used. 2 dowels are hammered into the crowns near the openings. The second method involves cutting openings in the finished log house. In this case, the pins should be located outside the opening, but close to its edge. Sawing begins with marking with a plumb line and level. The work is performed with a chainsaw.

The roof of a house from a bar

The beautiful roof consists of several slopes, and the presence of an attic with several windows makes it original. In the absence of skills, you can independently arrange a gable roof - this is a practical, effective, aesthetic type of roof. For the Mauerlat, a 150x150 mm bar is chosen and fastened to the crown of the wall using brackets, dowels, anchor bolts.

The rafters are supported by the Mauerlat. It should be noted that in this place it is customary to make a triangular cut for a stronger engagement of both elements. In wooden houses, which shrink significantly, the excavation is not done, since the displacement can deform the structure. The best way attach the rafters and provide the ability to move - use steel mount"sled". It consists of 2 elements that allow the rafter to change the angle due to the shrinkage of the house.

The rafter system consists of a solid timber and is a frame. It defines the shape of the roof and consists of duplicate elements. The angle of inclination, step, length, thickness of the rafters are indicated in the project. As a rule, they take a beam with a width of 150-180 mm, a thickness of 50 mm. The elements of the system are connected to each other with a thorn-groove fastening and steel plates. Raising the rafters to a given angle is carried out with the help of special elements - rafter legs, which are higher, the more the bars rise upward.

The installed rafter system is covered with a vapor barrier layer, a counter-lattice and a crate are mounted on top. The first is assembled from slats 2 cm thick, stuffing them onto insulating material along the rafters. The lathing is nailed across the rafters with nails, the pitch of the beams depends on the choice of roofing material. If tiles are laid, a continuous lathing is required; for corrugated board and slate, it is nailed in 30 cm increments.

If an attic is supposed to be installed, the roof is insulated from the inside with plates mineral wool laid between the rafters. Cladding material is chosen lining or drywall. Wooden house shrinks within 1-2 years. During this period, you can live in it, but the walls cannot be finished with facing materials.

One of the most suitable materials for individual construction is timber. Wood is affordable, easy to work with, and in terms of cost, lumber has a more reasonable price than other building materials. Another advantage of wood is its relative lightness, which allows you to reduce the cost of installing a strong foundation under the house.

These and other advantages of wood have led to the fact that wooden private construction is relevant and in demand. And if there is demand, supply appears. Moreover, the natural imperfections of wood, such as building material, are leveled by complex technologies for the manufacture of modern sawn timber, one of which is.

Advantages of a house made of profiled timber

• can be built quickly. A company (team) of three people, having minimal skills in using carpentry, locksmith tools, is able to assemble a box at home in a season;

• log house is environmentally friendly and has a unique microclimate. In addition, a good air flow through the wood will ensure a sufficient level of air exchange;

• timber is an excellent heat insulator and allows you to save heat and save on heating;

• you do not need to immediately invest a lot in construction and decoration. These processes can be separated in time;

• a log house has natural beauty, presentability and style.

Stages of building a house from a profiled bar

We will briefly list all the stages of construction, and dwell in detail on the key ones that relate directly to work with a bar.

DIY step-by-step instructions for building a house from a profiled bar:

Stage No.	Name	Content
1.	Design	- a typical project of a house made of profiled timber; - individual project(unique).
2.	Foundation	- definition of the type (tape, pile, slab); - calculation of characteristics; - excavation; - formwork device; - installation of the reinforcement cage; - pouring concrete; - set of strength.
3.	Building a box house	- waterproofing; - the first crown.
4.	Rough floor	- fits during the construction of the walls.
5.	Assembling the box	- subsequent crowns; - interior partitions; - interfloor ceilings.
6.	Installation of the rafter system	- roof truss system; - insulation of the under-roof space; - laying of roofing material.
7.	Installation of individual elements	- installation of columns, supports and other vertical elements; - installation of window and door blocks; - arrangement of stairs to the second floor (attic, attic).
8.	Internal finishing	- connection of communications; - finishing (facing) of the premises.
9.	External wall treatment	- grinding; - treatment with antiseptic, primer, fire retardant, painting.

Material prepared for the site www.site

Stage 1. Design

It is impossible to build a house from profiled timber without a project. Having a project is a direct guide to action. But first things first.

First of all, you need to decide, or focus on the ready-made (standard, free).

• typical project tied to the area and reflects the wishes of the person who ordered it. But such a project will cost much less. Considering that the standard length of the timber leaves its imprints on the size of the premises, we can say that there are not so many different variations. Therefore, most users purchase, or download from the network, finished project and makes the necessary adjustments to it;

• individual project is developed from scratch, the estimated cost is shown in the table

When developing a new or making adjustments to a finished project, you need to take into account the factors indicated in the table:

№	Factor	Description
1.	Type of residence: permanent or seasonal	Affects the choice of the section of the timber and the need for insulation
2.	Material	Humidity: Natural drying timber (humidity 15-18%); - (humidity 12-15%) Geometry: Straightforward; - curved. 100x100 - for gazebos, outbuildings, houses of seasonal residence; - 150x150 - for home permanent residence with insulation, baths; - 200x200 - for a permanent residence, elite houses. Profile configuration: German ("comb") does not require the use of insulation; - Finnish (Scandinavian) makes it possible to use rolled thermal insulation material ..
3.	House area	- the convenience of the location of the rooms; - number of storeys; - place of installation and parameters of the stairs; - the purpose of the rooms; - the number of concurrent residents and their specific needs (for example, pensioners, disabled people); - the possible number of guests.
4.	Location of the house	- remoteness from communications; - remoteness from other objects on the site (reservoir, sewerage); - landscape design plot; - type of soil, depth of freezing; - location of access roads; - orientation to the side of the light (important if there is a large glazing area). Affects the energy efficiency of the house; - remoteness from the boundaries of the site.

The result of the design stage will be the availability of project documentation approved by the relevant authorities, namely:

List of main documents:

1. Foundation drawing (with detailed description composition, depth of laying, layout by material, etc. As well as detailed data on soil, groundwater, etc.).
2. Building plan (prepared based on the foundation drawing, but also with a detailed description).
3. Floor-by-floor, detailed plan (partitions, windows, doors, stoves, fireplaces, etc. are indicated in detail).
4. Debris (this is detailed drawing sectional walls of the house. By scattering, you can make an order for the manufacture of a bar (domokomlpekt at home)).
5. Specification of every detail of the house.
6. Roof drawing, with a detailed description of the rafter system and all layers.
7. The final look of the house.

Calculation of timber at home

At the design stage, the calculation is performed the required amount lumber. The calculation is based on the spacing specified in the project.

As already noted, the construction of log houses can be carried out using moldings or marked parts from a house kit.

In the table, a comparison of approaches to construction, which is better, a house kit or on-site installation (molding)

Factor	Molding	Domokomplekt
Complexity of design	The ability to implement any zayn project, picking up parts from a bar on site	Kit for complex project more expensive, plus, not every plant will undertake to manufacture
Ability to make adjustments to the project	Easier, cheaper, faster	Impossible, a house kit from a profiled bar is made for a specific project
Construction time	Significant (2-6 months)	Reduced (up to 1-2 months)
Price	From 8 thousand rubles. per sq.	From 11 thousand rubles. per sq. (depends on the complexity of the project)
Risks	- exposure to external factors during storage; - the risk of damage to the timber when cutting or arranging the bowl; - risk of deformation; - the risk of additional costs (due to errors in calculations and manufacturing).	- the risk of lack of marking (checked when paying for the home kit); - the risk of poorly made bowls due to poorly adjusted production equipment.
Abuse	Workers may inflate the price, citing the complexity of the project and the difficulty of cutting the bowls. There is a risk of getting a significant amount of waste.	None.

When building a house with your own hands, it is important to correctly calculate the amount of timber required for work, because shortage and surplus entail additional cash costs.

• The easiest option is to contact the seller (manufacturer). When buying lumber, the seller usually does not charge for the settlement. But, it should be remembered that the distributor is inclined to round off the amount of timber, which at its cost per cubic meter. quite expensive.

• The second in complexity and risk is to use the calculator for calculating the timber for the house and set the parameters for the calculation. This method is quite accurate, although not without its drawbacks. Among them: a defect in the timber, not taking into account the shrinkage of the house, pruning errors.

• The most difficult, but also reliable, is an independent calculation by scattering. For this, a sketch of the house is made, on which dimensions are applied, and the amount of material is calculated manually. So you can calculate the number of units of the timber of the required length. To the number obtained as a result of the calculation, you need to add 5-7% for trimming, low-quality timber.

Note. A good profiled bar has clearly defined parameters and is cut with an accuracy of 1 mm, which allows you to be confident in the accuracy of calculations.

The choice of the section of the profiled bar for building a house is determined according to SNiP II-3-79. The calculation for Moscow in accordance with the standards of the specified document is shown in the table:

Note. When buying a bar for building a house, you need to pay attention to the presence of a cut, which is designed to reduce the likelihood of cracking the bar.

Stage 2. Foundation for a house made of profiled timber

Shrinkage compensation of a log house

Shrinkage of a house made of profiled timber is a natural process caused by the properties of wood. Drying the timber in a natural way or in a chamber allows you to reduce the moisture content of the wood and reduce the percentage of shrinkage. But it cannot be completely ruled out. Shrinkage is 3-5% for chamber-dried profiled beams and 8% for naturally-dried beams.

Given this feature of a profiled bar, construction companies offer two types of construction of houses from a profiled bar:

• for shrinkage... It involves the execution of work in two stages. First, the box is built, and after a downtime for a year and a half, they begin to install warm contour(windows, doors), stairs, interior decoration, etc .;

• Full construction... In this case, the work is carried out in one go, and the installation of the elements is carried out in compliance with the requirements for shrinkage compensation.

Stage 7. Installation of individual elements

Do-it-yourself construction of a house from a profiled beam is usually performed for shrinkage. But if there is a need to quickly move into the house, then you need to adhere to the following recommendations when installing structural elements and decor, which, unlike walls, shrink to different heights and at different speeds:

Window and doorways.

They are formed by installing the frame in the casing (box, casing). Thanks to the sliding structure of the frame and the expansion gap, windows and doors do not deform when the house shrinks.

Note. Not used when installing doors and windows polyurethane foam since it hardens and lacks flexibility. Natural insulation wrapped in a vapor-permeable film is used.

Columns, pillars, posts, supports and other vertical elements.

They are installed on adjusting systems - jacks (shrinkage compensators), which will allow to equalize different shrinkage values.

Roof elements.

The rafter legs are attached to the upper rim using sliding elements.

As for the installation of sliding fasteners at the place of installation of the ridge, opinions were divided here. Some masters advise doing it. Others emphasize the sufficiency of one sliding joint along the top rim.

Stairs.

This element is advised to be installed after shrinking a house from a bar. At least one year after construction, when major shrinkage has occurred. Installation is carried out as follows: the base of the ladder (bowstring or stringer) is attached to the ceiling also using sliding elements.

Stage 8. Interior decoration of the house from profiled timber

Finishing work, such as installing a plasterboard frame, is also recommended after shrinking a house made of profiled beams. However, using sliding fasteners will allow you to get started earlier.

It makes no sense to carry out plastering work or lay tiles on the walls from a bar. These materials are difficult to deform during shrinkage, which leads to the appearance of cracks or material shedding.

Stage 9. External wall treatment

Do not forget that a house made of profiled timber needs protection from external factors, for this, after construction, antiseptics and fire retardants are applied to the walls. The frequency of their application is determined by the manufacturer of the product, and is usually 3-5 years.

Good reviews about such materials:

Fire retardant compositions:

• Phenylax. The cost is 650 rubles / 6 kg.
• Cost 440 rubles / 1.1 l.;
• NEOMID 450-1. The cost is 1 339 rubles / 10 liters;
• OZONE-007. Cost 4,990 rubles / 48 kg;
• Senezh OgneBio Prof. The cost is 1,790 rubles / 23 kg.

Antiseptics:

• Aquatex Ground. The cost is 2 090 rubles / 10 liters.
• Nortex-Transit (concentrate). Cost 8 123 rubles / 19 kg. This composition is for transportation, i.e. intended only for processing wood during transportation or storage. Cover finished walls not recommended as it does not penetrate the wood structure, providing only surface protection.
• Senezh. The cost is 750 rubles / 10 kg.

Impregnations for wood protection and tinting:

• varnish Krasula. Cost 2,700 rubles / 11 kg;
• Senezh Aquadecor. The cost is 2 680 rubles / 9 kg.

Building a house from a profiled bar - video

The cost of building a house from a profiled bar

The construction of a house from a turnkey bar or with your own hands consists of such factors as:

• material;
• fare;
• consumable material;
• the complexity of the project;
• the size of the house;
• project cost;
• payment for services construction crew, in the case of their involvement to perform any work or consultation;
• costs of obtaining permits for the connection of communications, etc.

Conclusion

Hope that this instruction explains in sufficient detail how to build a house from a profiled bar on your own, and the result obtained will delight more than one generation of users.

We want to offer you educational information, but it will be useful for those people who are familiar with tools such as a hammer, a hacksaw and a drill, and they also need to be willing to work. We will try to briefly explain to you where to start building a house from a bar and how to continue it, in other words, you will learn how to make a box into which the foundation, walls and roof are included.

This training will be general enough so that you can understand the essence of this construction method, and in addition, you can watch the video in this article on the topic being discussed.

Construction steps for erecting a box

Everything can be divided into four main stages and although this is not a complete ending installation works, but the box will already be ready in this case. The very first thing is planning and drawing up a project that meets not only your wishes, but also technical specifications possible in the area. When the drawing is ready, then on its basis they equip the foundation, then the walls and cover them with a roof.

Planning

Any construction project begins with planning and this is not only a drawing on paper, but also careful planning for the location of the building with reference to the area. That is, we will need to bind not ready plan at home, but draw up this plan, focusing on the most different features plot. First of all, these are the cardinal points and those rooms that most need heating (nursery, bedroom) should be placed on the south side.

You can insulate the north side of the house in a natural way by substituting a belt from the veranda, glazed terrace, boiler room or storage room for the cold. By acting in this way, you create favorable conditions for saving energy resources, which are spent on heating the house. But is it possible to locate the rooms most in need of heating on the south side, if it is windward?

There are areas of the terrain where the winds blow constantly, then this factor should be taken into account first of all. That is, the warmest rooms should be located on the leeward side, even if it is north, and on the windward side it is better to plan the so-called "cold rooms". Such a layout will allow not to over-expend resources for heating the house in winter.

Another important factor is the location of windows for ventilation of the room or those that will most often be opened during the operation of the room. It is better not to plan any outbuildings associated with an abundance of odors near them, as well as baths or smokehouses.

It is also worth paying attention to neighboring yards, so that such buildings do not end up in the neighborhood with an open window and, instead of airing the room, do not bring unpleasant odors into the house.

Advice. When choosing a place for construction on the site, try to make it the highest in the entire area of ​​the yard. This will lower your impact. groundwater on the foundation.

Foundation selection

There are three main options - pile, columnar and strip foundations. Each of them can be divided into some subspecies that are most applicable in certain conditions or differ in cost and labor intensity.

Pile screw and bored foundations are mainly used for light-type buildings, such as, for example, a bathhouse or even a small residential building. In the first case, piles are mounted by screwing into the ground, but the second option implies pioneer drilling of wells and the installation of casing pipes in them, which are subsequently poured with concrete with the preliminary installation of a frame made of reinforcement.

The columnar foundation is very similar to the pile foundation in its capabilities, only the columns are made of brick or masonry, as well as from reinforced concrete slabs... Step of piles or posts for wooden buildings usually it is from 2 to 2.5 m, with their obligatory installation at every corner and intersection (walls, partitions). A grillage or a salary in such cases is most often made of wood, although it is possible to use metal profiles and reinforced concrete.

For a large wooden house, the installation of a strip base is most often envisaged, the main factor in the variety of which is depth from the ground level.

So, strip foundations can be buried and shallow, but the instructions do not paint the exact dimensions - here the starting point is the point of freezing of the soil. If the tape is deepened to this point, then it is considered shallow, and if lower, then it is already a buried foundation.

To calculate the strip foundation, you can use the calculator:

Also, the tape can be either monolithic or prefabricated - only the price of the foundation changes from this, and the quality, with proper installation, remains the same. Monolithic bases can be supplemented on top with a brick plinth, but this plinth can also be a part of the tape that rises above the ground.

Advice. For some reason, it is generally accepted that for a shallow, but this idea is deceptive and the truth is usually revealed within a few years after installation, or even after one or two years - the tape begins to deform. The minimum depth from the ground level in such cases can be anywhere from 50 cm or more.

Walls of a wooden house

• First of all, a salary is placed on the foundation, but it must be treated with antiseptics in order to at least partially block the natural process of wood decay. A shut-off waterproofing should be placed under the timber, which is most often the usual roofing material. As a rule, various antiseptics for such needs do not have a color and in order to prevent gaps in the coating, you can mix a stain into the composition, as was done in the top photo, and you will see all possible bald patches.

• Before erecting walls, you need to install logs for the floor, and in those places where the load is greater, for example, in a large room, the logs can be double. Planks should be laid on this base as a temporary floor to make it easier for you to work. Moreover, such a flooring can be built, both before laying the lower crown, and after several rows, as long as there is enough growth of the masters to raise the timber to its place.

• The timber is attached to each other using dowels, which are hammered into pre-drilled holes with a diameter of at least 20 mm. The dowels themselves are prepared by hand, and they should be several millimeters thicker than the hole itself. The pitch of such fasteners can be observed with a value of about one meter.

• If you do not have enough length of the timber (with the exception of the upper and lower rim), then it can be extended into an end butt with a ridge, as shown in the photo above. Weak points when joining the timber are successfully compensated by the lower and upper rows, it is only important that the joining of all rows (and even two adjacent ones) does not occur on the same vertical line.

• Now let's find out how the timber joins the adjacent walls, that is, it means joining the corners along the perimeter and joining the partitions to the main walls. In the picture above, you see the main types of locks for the outer corners (along the perimeter), and usually a "oblique paw" is used for such connections. After fastening the lock on top for strength, a metal bracket is hammered, applying this for each row.

Advice. Many builders advise to use tow for the "oblique paw" type lock, paving the joining points with it.

• It is quite difficult to lift to the upper rows, because it has a considerable mass. Therefore, for such transportation, they make a kind of ramp from the same bar, as you can see in the top photo, and along it, with the help of ropes, they raise the next profile. The number of rows for the construction of walls is practically unlimited, so the height of the building will mainly depend on the design plan drawn up in advance.

• Partitions, as a rule, are made of a bar of a smaller section, because such walls no longer bear responsibility for thermal insulation. load-bearing wall or in the conjugate partition occurs with a "frying pan" or "dovetail" - this is a sufficiently strong lock, which is quite enough for such a design.
• Buildings are mainly made of solid timber, taking into account subsequent finishing, since such walls do not look like a completely finished modern building. Another thing is when a tongue-and-groove bar is used for these purposes, where spikes and grooves are made by a router in advance. In this case, the whole construction site is like a construction set, where all the parts are prepared in advance and connected to each other without preliminary processing.

Roof

After the walls have been erected, beams are laid on them, which will serve as the basis for the roof frame and, of course, will also support the entire weight of the roofing material. The pitch of the beams will depend on the pitch of the rafter legs, which, in turn, depends on the length of the rafters or the height of the ridge. So the higher the frame, the shallower the step of the rafter legs and most often this parameter fluctuates between 0.4m and 1.0m.

The rafters are attached to the beams with nails and metal brackets, as shown in the top photo. To fix the leg in a strictly horizontal position, you need to install stretch marks from any rail 20-25 mm thick, which will be removed after installing the ridge beam, racks and struts.

For rafters and racks, a beam of 150 × 50 mm or 200 × 50 mm is usually used (the exact same material can be used for logs on the floor). But for the struts, you can use the bars, but this is only if the frame is low, no more than one meter. For the ridge beam, either exactly the same beam that goes on the rafter legs is used, or round timber with a diameter of at least 120 mm.

Frame lathing under roofing material it is made with an edged or unedged board with a thickness of 20-25 mm - the main thing is that its pitch coincides with the dimensions of the roofing sheets. In our time, such roofs are covered mainly with corrugated board and metal tiles, although sometimes ordinary slate is found.

Conclusion

If we talk about the price, then building from a bar, which is a solid solid wood, is much cheaper than from its glued counterpart. But after installation, such a solid-mass profile requires settling for shrinkage and a house built from it cannot be finished within 10-12 months. As you can see, a drop in material costs does not always translate into a drop in price as a whole, as everyone knows that wasted time is wasted money.