How to fix wooden railings to the wall. Fastening wooden handrails
The assembly of the railing for the stairs is completed by installing the handrail. What can be the fastening of the handrail, how to do it correctly, reliably and imperceptibly, not everyone knows. Some common ways for wooden and metal stairs will be described here.
Fastening the handrail to the balusters of a wooden staircase
It turns out that wooden railings are the most difficult to make. All because there are many different ways and methods of working with wood and almost no ready-made solutions, since each staircase is individual, has features. For example, fastening a handrail to balusters can be done using dowels, self-tapping screws, nails, bolts, special ties (zip bolt), glue. In addition, railings can be “attached” directly to balusters and poles, but there are options with an additional bar, which is sometimes called a “pillar”. And all of these are the “correct” ways to connect the racks to the handrail. Here's how you can do it and we'll talk in this section.
First of all, cut off a piece of the handrail of the desired length. It can be a fragment from one support column to another, a piece for the entire span - from the upper / lower column to the moment of rotation. It all depends on the design of the stairs. If there are joints between two fragments, they must be well processed, achieving a perfect match. Then the handrails for the street must be coated with protective impregnations, and then painted / varnished. After that, you can already deal with the issues of attaching the handrail to the stairs.
How to cut balusters for handrail installation
After installing the balusters on the steps, their tops are on different levels, and you can’t install a handrail on them without trimming - it doesn’t fit like that. To install the support rail on the stairs, it is necessary to cut the upper part of the uprights at a certain angle. This angle is determined by the steepness of the flight of stairs and does not need to be calculated. It is defined "on the spot".
To find the angle of cutting the balusters, you can use a thread stretched between the support posts. We tie it at the same distance from the tops of the pillars, which are installed at the top and bottom of the span. Where, as planned, the lower boundary of the handrail will pass. Using this stretched thread with a pencil, we transfer the line to the tops of the racks. Instead of a thread, you can use and you can also temporarily fix the guide (any flat bar).
This is how it should turn out - the stair railing is ready for the installation of handrails
We got the line, now we saw off the tops of the columns on the stairs strictly along it. Next, you can continue to mount the handrail on balusters or poles.
Let me give you one piece of advice: if for the subsequent installation of the railing you need to drill holes for dowels or studs, it is better to do this before trimming. It's easier to find the center, it's easier to keep the drill perpendicular. After the holes are made, you can take a saw / jigsaw and file it along the marked markings of the rack.
Connection of balusters and railings with dowels and threaded studs
Consider one of the traditional ways: fastening the handrail with dowels or studs. For this type of connection, matching holes must be made in the handrail and stair railing posts. If you install studs, they can be screwed into the holes made in the center of the balusters, set the handrail in the position in which it should stand. After checking if everything is right, walk along the handrail, tapping your fist over each baluster. The protruding ends of the metal studs will leave a mark on the back of the handrail. Remove the handrail, mark the resulting marks for reliability with a marker / pencil. Now you can drill holes. With this method of marking the handrail, there are almost no problems with its “landing” in place.
The second option for marking the handrail for the installation of studs and dowels is carried out before they are installed in the balusters. First of all, we put the cut piece of the handrail in place. Then we mark with a pencil on both sides where the balusters are installed. Before marking, we check the distance between adjacent posts below and near the handrail. If they match, everything is fine, we put marks, if not, we correct the position of the rack and only then we make marks. Adjustment is needed so that all ladder supports are vertical. This will make the railing more secure.
After all the balusters are marked, remove the handrail. On the reverse side are our marks. Between the pairs of lines that outline the baluster, we draw diagonals. Put a mark at the point where they intersect. Here it will be necessary to drill a hole for a dowel or a hairpin. Similarly, we find the centers on the balusters (if there are no holes in them yet). As you understand, with this method of marking the handrail for the railing, problems can arise - the slightest inaccuracy and the handrail does not fit into the rack. The good news is that the baluster can be moved within certain limits. Until it is fixed, there is a certain freedom, and it can be used when installing the railing. Just move it so that the spike enters the groove. In general, you know how to attach a handrail to dowels.
To make the installation of the railing more reliable, in addition to dowels or studs, you can coat the connection with glue. This will make the structure more rigid, extend the service life without backlash.
With an auxiliary bar - a railing
Agree that the easiest way to install a handrail on balusters is through screws or nails. What stops such a decision? Too unsightly result in the form of fastener caps that spoil the whole look. But there is a very similar way to ensure a good looking stair railing. An auxiliary bar is used, which is also called a slat.
The auxiliary bar is cut out with a spike, which mirrors the shape of the groove at the bottom of the handrail. With its even side, it is placed on sawn balusters, fixed through (self-tapping screws or nails - your choice). Don't forget to check the distances between adjacent racks.
Then the upper part of the underlay is smeared with glue and the handrail is “planted”. All. No traces of fasteners on the front of the handrail, everything is holding. The only thing to consider is that the height of the handrail turns out to be somewhat larger, since more thickness is added and the auxiliary plank (if the plank is wooden, this is at least 2-3 cm).
There is another way to fasten the handrail to the underframe - with small nails or self-tapping screws from below, at an angle. But with such a mount, hats are visible. They can be disguised in one of the known ways, but it takes a long time ...
The easiest way is to fasten with screws
As you know, over time, wooden railings “loose” due to the fact that they stagger under load, the wood fibers are crushed, and play appears. To reduce the possibility of backlash, when fastening through a lath, two or more self-tapping screws / nails can be used for each baluster. So the fastening of the handrail will be more rigid.
Also, for greater reliability, the bar can be made of metal. Any thin metal will do. Be it steel or aluminum. But then it will be necessary either to cut the bar to the dimensions of the recess in the handrail, or to modify the groove so that the handrail fits well on the structure. And one more thing: if the bar is metal, you need to find a universal glue that glues wood with metal well. This fastening of the handrail on the stairs is simple, beautiful, reliable. Suitable for those who decide to make a handrail for the stairs with their own hands for the first time.
On spikes of various shapes
It is possible to install a handrail made of wood without metal fasteners: on spikes and glue. Spikes are cut out at the top of the balusters. Under them, recesses of the same shape are formed in the handrail. The shape of the spike / groove - any. It can be a rhombus, a rectangle, a circle, an oval. The main thing is that the spike and groove match perfectly. This can be achieved by making a template and repeating it exactly on each fragment. The minimum spike height is 2.5 cm, so the height of the handrail cannot be less than 4.5 cm.
After a spike is formed on each baluster, and a groove is cut in the appropriate place on the handrail, they are glued. When installing the handrail on the balusters, they can be slightly shifted to align the holes. You can use the installed handrail after the glue has dried (time is on the package).
Connection of handrail and support post
Often the handrail does not go over the post, but is connected to its side face. How to join the handrail and the pole in this case? The easiest way is after cutting the handrail at the right angle, fasten it to self-tapping screws or nails driven in at an angle. The disadvantages are obvious - fastener caps are visible.
There is another way - to use a zip bolt, which consists of two movably connected studs and a gearbox. For its installation, a technological hole is required, which is made at the bottom of the handrail. It is then closed with a plug to match the wood and it becomes almost invisible. The second plus of such a connection: it can be tightened (to a certain extent), if suddenly a backlash appears.
Even under the zipbolt, you need to drill holes for the studs - one each in the post and in the handrail. The technological hole is usually made in the handrail. It is positioned so that it is possible to tighten the thread under the gearbox (the length of this thread is usually 10 mm). The depth of the holes is according to the size of the studs (from the junction to the edge), the diameter is 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the stud.
Studs are installed in the drilled holes. It is screwed into the pole, it is simply inserted into the handrail. A gearbox is installed in the prepared technological hole, in which there is a hole for a hex key (6 mm). We unfold the gearbox so that it is convenient to use the key. Turning the key, tighten the thread, pulling the handrail to the post. This must be done after the balusters are connected to the handrail. By attaching the handrail to the post, we can assume that the railing is installed.
Installation of a handrail on prefabricated metal fences
In general, the assembly of handrails from metal (stainless, nickel-plated, chrome-plated) pipes is similar to a designer. There are pipes of different diameters, decorative elements for them, and a whole set various mounts. From all these details, the railing is assembled. That is why they are called "combinations". When deciding how to attach handrails to metal balusters / posts / posts, your task is to choose those elements that best suit your task or you like more than others.
To connect metal racks / balusters with a handrail, there are special tips that are attached to a round / square / rectangular pipe on one side, and to the handrail on the other. There are models different type. You only need to find the most suitable, choose the right one: according to the size of the racks and the type of handrail.
In metal prefabricated fences, handrails can be different:
- round metal pipe;
- profile (rectangular, square) metal pipe;
- plastic handrail (round, oval or original shape);
- wooden of any profile.
Under each of these handrails there is a mount, and usually more than one. Choose what you like. They are easy to fix with clamp bolts. But, for reliability, and if the thickness of the metal allows, all joints of two metal parts can be welded. - a tricky thing, but if you know how to handle a welding machine, there is nothing impossible in this. Welding takes more time, but such a fastening of the handrail will be very reliable.
When connecting the elements of a metal staircase with plastic or wood, you must use the fasteners recommended by the manufacturers. Additionally, you can glue the joints universal glue. True, in the case of stainless steel, this is of little use: the grip will be very low. But still…
Fastening a handrail to a welded or forged stair railing
A wooden handrail is usually placed on a forged or welded fence. In its lower part, a cut is made according to the size of the upper jumper of the finished fence. The depth of landing of the handrail is about 2 cm. It is possible more or less - it depends on the desire. The railing is connected to the handrail with self-tapping screws, which are screwed through the holes in the upper jumper. It is important to choose the length of the fastener: it should be a little (at least 5 mm) less height handrail so that the screw does not stick out on the surface.
In this case, the installation of the handrail on the stairs is simple:
It is also possible to glue a wooden handrail to metal welded or forged railings. When choosing an adhesive, you need to look so that it can connect wood and metal. For outdoor stairs (on, for example), you also need to pay attention to the operating temperature range. Otherwise, there are no difficulties:
- spread glue according to the instructions;
- press the parts, fix with clamps;
- leave until the glue dries;
- remove clamps.
Both of these methods can be used to securely attach a handrail to a steel ladder. One does not interfere with the other.
Methods for attaching the handrail of the stairs to the wall
A handrail is attached to the wall if the width of the steps on the stairs exceeds 120 cm. The second handrail is made of the same material and the same shape as on the balusters, but it is attached to the wall.
For mounting the handrail on the wall there is whole line fasteners - brackets - for a different profile (round, oval, curly). On one side of the fastener there is a round or square fragment with a flat surface and holes made in it. This part is mounted on the wall. We select fasteners depending on the material from which the wall is made. We use self-tapping screws if the walls are wooden, dowels for walls made of concrete and brick, and special dowels for fastening to lightweight concrete.
We select the number and size of fasteners for installing a stair handrail on a wall based on reliability considerations. Manufacturers make at least four holes on each bracket. Here are four screws / dowels / nails for each and put. When choosing a length, it is better to proceed from the considerations "the longer the better." Still, a solid load can fall on the wall rail, so it’s better to be safe than to fly down ...
The second part for wall mounting of stair railings - where the handrail itself is attached - can be different. Under round pipes there may be a ring of a certain diameter, a flat area usually goes under rectangular or square handrails. There are also holes in this part of the stair handrail bracket so that the railing can be fixed. And in this case, the number of fasteners should be equal to the number of holes (for the same reasons).
There are brackets for wall mounting handrails with different angle tilt. They are chosen based on their own ideas about the convenience and the planned height of the support. There are also telescopic models that allow you to set the distance to the wall and / or the angle of inclination. There are also end wall brackets, which, at the same time as fixing the edges of the handrail, also decorate them decoratively.
The number of brackets depends on its handrail length. Usually, one element is placed at the edges, and between them is a calculated number, with a distance of 40-60 cm. The lower the bearing capacity of the wall, the more often we install wall holders for railings.
To install a handrail, it is not necessary to build a railing. If there is an adjacent vertical surface, it can be attached directly to it. For this installation, use special type installation - railing bracket to the wall.
Wall mounting method
If the width of the flight of stairs is not wide enough for convenient use, and the installation of the railing will take additional distance, the handrail is attached to the wall. There are such types of staircase designs in which the absence of railings is design solution, and they are simply not provided for. In these cases, the railing is attached using wall supports.
Types of such props
According to the method of fastening there are:
- For one central anchor;
- For several (usually 3) dowels.
By method of attachment to the bracket itself at:
- On a tripod finger;
- On the lodgment.
They can be with an adjustable finger-tripod, and be solid-bent.
One-piece strut with central anchor
The lodgement can be flat, calculated for a handrail with a flat bottom surface, and semicircular, for round or oval, respectively.
Brackets differ in the material from which they are made. Their surface is matte or polished. They are made from bronze, from simple steel with an electrolytic coating with a layer of any other metal (under silver or gilding), from stainless steel, brass.
Important! Often the brackets are part of a set made in the same style, which includes the handrail itself with swivel elements and decorative end caps for it.
Bracket mounting
Adjustable support with straight cradle
The most reliable and easy to perform is to mount the handrail on brackets with one central anchor. It is not used on plasterboard or walls made of porous material, such as foam concrete, due to the low holding capacity of such materials.
Installation is carried out in this order:
- Line marking, marking points for drilling holes for anchors. The line of the handrail should be parallel to the base of the flight of stairs. The height of the railing is made in accordance with generally accepted standards - 90 cm. It should be borne in mind that the place of attachment of the support will be below the handrail line at the height of her finger. The distance between brackets should not exceed 1 meter.
- An anchor with a thread is screwed into the drilled holes to screw the holder.
- A decorative washer is put on the screwed anchor and fixed with a clamping screw.
Important! When screwing the anchor into the wall, make sure that after putting on the washer, its protruding part with the thread is long enough to securely fasten the holder.
- The holder is screwed onto the anchor, orienting the hole for the tripod finger in the desired position.
- A tripod finger is inserted into the hole of the holder, fixing the desired height with a clamping screw.
- A lodgement is screwed to the tripod, and a handrail is attached to it.
Important! For mounting to a plasterboard wall, it is necessary to fix the mortgages at the stage of sheathing and use a bracket with three holes.
Drawing of a one-piece bent support with three mounting holes
When installing a one-piece bent support with three mounting holes, you need to remember that the markings for the holes in the wall must be carried out in compliance with a certain angle of inclination of the support finger. This method requires precise markup.
Handrails installed using wall supports will be ergonomic, they are ideal for some styles of space design, for example, minimalism, they will not require much time and effort to install them.
One of the main criteria for the quality of a ladder is its safety. It can be fully provided stair railing, however, only if its installation was carried out taking into account all the design features, as well as its location in the space of the room. This article will discuss how to fix the railing on the wall, which bolts and brackets to choose for the railing, what installation features exist.
Types of holders
If the handrail is attached to the balusters, then at the bottom the balusters are attached to the steps, and at the top they are connected to the handrail or plank, which will then become part of the structure. If the ladder is located along the wall, you can fix the handrail on the wall with holders. And here it is important to choose the most suitable option.
There are several types of holders that differ in the method of attachment:
With overlay. There are two types:
Drop-in. They differ from the rest in that one side of the mount is hammered into the groove provided for this on the handrail, and the other is fixed on the wall.
Tools
In order to attach the handrail to the wall, you will need the following set of tools:
To ensure your safety in the process, you should also prepare protective goggles and gloves.
Mounting process
There is a certain sequence of steps for mounting the handrail, which may vary somewhat in accordance with the choice of bracket. However, in any case, it is necessary to prepare a preliminary drawing with the dimensions applied to it, which will help to avoid errors in the work.
For attachment with overlay:
For driven structures:
Note: To connect the railing at the bends, an element such as a zip bolt is used, which will provide a reliable and inconspicuous fastening.
The installation of the handrail is a very responsible event, therefore it is extremely necessary to carry out careful measurements. After all, the reliability and durability of the future design depends on this.
In many private houses, they prefer to install unusual stairs. As a rule, it is made of wood or metal. To properly make a building envelope, you need to make a little effort. However, everyone can do it on their own. In this case, most often the problem is not in assembly, but in fixing the structure to the wall.
Attention! Before starting work, you should choose the most preferred type of railing, their material, assembly scheme. It is also important to read the instructions and prepare the required tools. This will lead to the fact that the work will be done quickly and simply, which will surely please the household.
Required Material: What do you need?
First you need to have on hand necessary tools. You will have to use a number of tools, including the following:
- flat grinding machine;
- grinder and milling;
- jigsaw and end saw;
- screwdriver and caliper;
- clamps;
- brush;
- construction knife;
- ruler and pencil.
Before creating handrails, you need to prepare some other materials. They are necessary for the handrails themselves. It will be interesting to look if they are forged or wooden. The fastening of such railings is quite simple, and the emphasis is on ensuring that the fastening of any railing is of high quality. Among the tools needed are the following:
- an oak or ash board with a thickness of up to 4 mm;
- bars with a cross section of 20 by 20 mm;
- sandpaper;
- self-tapping screws that are needed for working with wood, the length of which is 110 mm;
- PVA glue;
- masking tape;
- paper.
Remember that if you intend to choose holders for fastening from other materials, they should be given preference accordingly. For example, metal and iron fences, which are considered the most reliable, are suitable for giving.
Do-it-yourself installation features
The very work with the prepared boards consists of their sequential gluing. You should end up with 12 layers. And, in general, you get a product whose dimensions will be 42 by 42 mm. That's an example. If you need a larger size, then you need to use boards with a larger width and number of layers.
You should ask yourself how to attach wooden railings to the wall yourself in order to achieve proper quality and reliability. This will avoid a number of subsequent disadvantages. In particular, when fixing the holder to the wall, it is necessary to ensure that the fixed product does not move. The handrail must be held securely.
Usually forged products are much easier to fix than wooden ones. They come with special holders that are simply attached to the wall. Wooden railings can be attached to any wall in various ways. In particular, fastening methods for wooden railings are selected individually, depending on the characteristics and expectations.
How to do the work yourself?
The algorithm of work is usually standard. To eliminate any shortcomings or problems, you should simply stick to it. It involves the following steps. First, the boards are cleaned with a grinder, on which a grinding nozzle is worn. The main thing is that there are no bumps left.
The next step is the base, which is made from plywood. To do this, attach plywood along the contour. Its width should be 42 mm. It is made in such a way that it can completely coincide with all the contours and planes of the stairs. Then put a newspaper on top and stick it with masking tape. Such a layer will help the boards not stick to the plywood layer, since the plywood is removed after work is completed.
Now lay the initial layer of boards. They are grabbed with clamps. This is done throughout the base until the stairs are covered. Boards should be placed as close to each other as possible. To make the second layer, the boards need to be cut. They should overlap the seams of the previous layer by 5 cm. Then they are glued.
Since PVA glue tends to dry quickly, the work must be carried out quickly. Glue is applied with a brush immediately on both surfaces. Then they are tightly connected and fixed with clamps. Additional boards can be fastened with self-tapping screws.
The boards need to be pressed firmly so that the glue comes out. It will take at least 10 hours for each layer to dry the future structure well. Now the boards should be cut with a cutter, and grinding machine go through the seams. For each layer, you need to do this work.
It must be remembered that each layer wooden planks must be processed with a milling machine. Plywood is suitable for the template, as well as the bottom layer of cut boards.
Now you can proceed to the last step. Handrails must be processed from all sides with the help of a cutter, on which a nozzle is put on for rounding. This will help to make a product with a round cross section. Then the plywood base is removed, and the handrail, which is assembled by hand, can be fixed.
Now you should move on to cosmetic work. They will help to process the handrails perfectly for the design of the room. You need to do the following:
- putty in a color that goes well with the tone of the wood;
- grind with sandpaper;
- paint and lacquer.
The final stage of work on the creation of railings is their direct attachment to the wall.
Algorithm for attaching the railing to the wall
Fastening the railing to the wall may be necessary in cases where the stairs lead to the second floor. In this case, the work algorithm involves the following steps:
- Studying and familiarization with the instruction. It is important to read it before attaching the railing.
- Additionally, you can watch the video to clearly see how the work is done.
- Prepare dowels, screws and brackets.
- Marking the place of installation of power elements. They are placed at a distance of at least 15-20 centimeters from the edge of each handrail, achieving uniform gaps.
- It is preferable that from the wall to the handrail was from 5 to 25 centimeters.
- It is necessary to observe the slope of the stairs during the installation of the railing. This will ensure the safety of the descent and external aesthetics.
After the handrail is connected to the bracket, you should ask a friend to help you. If not, the holders are first fixed to the wall, and then the railing is attached to them. If your handrails are connected to adjustable brackets, it is possible to adjust the position. The installation itself after the preparation is over is not difficult.
It involves drilling holes under it in accordance with the markings made. After that, it is necessary to fix it with brackets-holders and dowels on the wall. Next, the handrail is attached to the holders using bolts and screws. A separate design of handrails and brackets is simpler and more comfortable, therefore, in the absence of experience, it is worth giving preference to it.
Attention! If you act carefully and gradually, there will be no difficulties in creating and attaching the railing to the wall. It is important to act according to the instructions. If you are in doubt about own forces You can always entrust the work to professionals who will do everything as quickly as possible.
Now you know how to fix wrought iron or wooden railings on the wall, as well as how to make wooden handrails with your own hands. The instructions can also be found on the Internet, this process does not imply any particular difficulties, but it is still recommended to act carefully and gradually. If the appearance of the railing is important to you, choose wrought iron or wood carved models that look luxurious.
Railings are designed not only to ensure safe movement on the stairs, but also serve as a wonderful additional touch to the decor.
Handrails are widely used both indoors and outdoors, so many factors are taken into account when choosing them and related accessories.
Peculiarities
Steel has a high resistance to temperature extremes and high humidity, does not need special care, it is not afraid of mechanical stress. In addition, it combines exquisite appearance and affordable price.
It is these qualities that explain the widespread use of this material for the manufacture of railings and related components, such as hinges, plugs, clips and various fasteners.
When choosing a railing, it is worth considering the combination of materials from which they are made and the conditions for their operation.
For the manufacture of railings, cast iron, steel, aluminum, iron, bronze and brass are used.
- Cast iron more suitable for the street, because he is not afraid of humid air. This material allows you to create beautiful and complex patterns, but has a bulky look. It is for this reason that in home interior it is rarely used, but it looks perfect on embankments and in parks.
- Steel- the most practical material. Its resistance to temperature extremes and weather conditions allows it to be used almost everywhere. Stainless steel is resistant to corrosion, which allows it to be used in places with high humidity. Polished steel is practical in use, unpretentious in operation and has a high level of wear resistance.
- Aluminum more popular in manufacturing various designs, including railings. The flexibility and plasticity of this material allows you to embody a wide variety of shapes and colors. Aluminum railings are usually used indoors.
- Iron- a problematic option, since it has many difficulties in processing and assembly, moreover, it requires certain care: periodic tinting and coating with anti-corrosion compounds. Used more for mass production.
- Bronze and brass are used very rarely due to impracticality - they darken too quickly and need careful care.
High-quality components are a direct path to a successful and durable fence, which will certainly become an adornment of any interior.
Do-it-yourself accessories for stair railings are easy to install if you follow our recommendations. The complete set can be the most various, the set is selected individually. Side decoration can be made from nickel-plated elements or wooden poles.
Device
Railings consist of a baluster, handrail and railing filling.
A baluster is a support that is attached to the stairs. It can be both ordinary and decorative.
Handrails are mounted on balusters and are designed for comfortable operation of the structure.
Infill railings are applied between balusters to close the empty space.
It is used not only for additional security, but also as an additional element of decor.
Railings differ not only in the material of manufacture, but also in the method of production and are divided into 6 types:
- prefabricated;
- welded;
- stamped;
- forged;
- cast;
- combined.
Prefabricated consist of individual parts, for the collection of which special fittings are used.
Welded, or reinforcing-profile railings are made mainly of steel and ferrous metals. Any of these materials allows you to create intricate patterns and shapes in various styles.
Stamped - their original and stylish design produced by stamping in mass production.
Forged are created by individually forging each element.
Cast irons are made from molten metals. The liquid alloy is poured into molds, after solidification, it is removed and subjected to additional processing. This version of the railing is more durable.
Combined railings usually have metal carcass, which is filled with other materials. Glass or plastic can be used as filling.
It is the method of manufacture of railings that affects the conditions of their operation and the place of installation.
Varieties
Wide the lineup Components used for railings are divided into three main categories: fasteners, fittings and decorative elements.
Mounting accessories
When assembling the load-bearing elements, they install round or rectangular racks on the floor and are fixed on the walls or ceiling. These include various flanges, plates or embedded elements connected with anchors.
Glass holders are required for the installation of transparent filling of fences. There are two designs:
- requiring making holes in the glass for fixation;
- firmly attached to the support and fixing the glass through a plastic gasket with a screw clamp.
Bowstring holders or crossbar holders are designed for a guide located near a wall or column, as well as for fixing the longitudinal filling of the railing with pipes of small diameter.
The bracket is designed to fix the railing and has a range of species in accordance with the location of the attachment point.
Fitting
These are accessories designed to install handrails. They differ in diameter, cross section and angle of rotation. These include connectors, bends, twins, corners, turns, which allow you to connect the parts of the handrail into a single whole so that there are no obstacles and joints on it for several spans.
In addition, adjustable connectors allow you to dock the handrails at the required angle.
Elements for decor
Decorative elements include:
- Stubs spherical or flat - necessary to improve appearance, so their size must necessarily correspond to the railing, otherwise the impression of a foreign element will be created.
- cups close the ends of the racks and railings, preventing moisture and dirt from entering the structure.
- balls mounted on racks to create an attractive appearance.
- heels fastened at the junction of racks to the stairs, serve as an additional decoration.
- decorative twist for the handrail serves to fix it at an angle and varies according to the diameter of the pipe.
Decorative twists for bowstrings are used to create aesthetics at pipe joints, marking is carried out in accordance with the pipe section.
Connecting elements include:
- a bowstring is a guide pipe, it can be of different diameters;
- the outlet is designed to connect parts of the guide located at an angle;
- connecting elements have different diameters and cross-sectional shapes.
Mounting
Installation of a stainless steel railing begins with the installation of two posts.
The standard height of the fence corresponds to 90-95 cm, from which the size of the adjustable tip is cut off by the grinder. The formed burrs are cleaned off with a wire nozzle or an emery wheel from the outside and from the inside of the pipe. Those places where plaque has formed are treated with a felt wheel and polishing paste.
Then tips are attached to the prepared racks, the design of which includes adjustable legs, lodgements, fastening handrails and caps. The latter are designed to hide the place of the cut on the counter.
After the caps, washers are put on, between which rubber rings are located.
During installation, they are squeezed out to wedge the tip and ensure a secure fit.
After that, the racks are installed on the edge of the lowest step, stepping back from the edge of 5 cm, the places for the holes are marked. This indentation is necessary to avoid damage.
At the marks obtained, holes are drilled into which anchor bolts are placed. Embedded parts are put on top of them and fixed with nuts.
After that, you should make sure that all the racks are installed correctly and straight vertically. After that, finished steel railings are installed on them.
After the assembly of the straight section of the stairs is completed, its turn is assembled. To do this, components for the outlet are taken and inserted into the ends of the pipe, fixed with glue or welding. After using the welding machine, all seams should be carefully cleaned and polished.
Then the strings (crossbars) are fastened with the help of special holders. To do this, a pipe of small diameter is cut off and fixed with a crossbar holder. After that, plugs are installed, previously smeared with glue.
Properly assembled stainless steel railings have great strength and practicality.
Wooden railings consist of handrails and balusters. Balusters are fastened with handrails, due to this, the reliability and strength of the structure is ensured.
Installation begins with the installation of extreme pedestals with a height of 80-90 cm. To check the convenience of the selected height of the racks, a rope is pulled between them, holding on to which you should climb and go down the stairs. If the height suits you, you can move on, if not, it is corrected.
Then the frequency of installation of balusters is calculated (at least 20 cm to ensure the safety of the movement of young children) and holes are made in the handrail with a drill. The lower edges are set on the steps, and the upper ones are sawn off at an angle of a stretched bowstring.