Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands. Making a homemade workbench Folding table do-it-yourself workbench drawings

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In any private house, workshop or garage, a joiner's workbench is a very useful item. With its help, it is convenient to make or repair any things, and it also combines the functions of a table and a tool shelf at the same time. It can be equipped with a bench vise, and a machine for sharpening various tools can be installed on it. If you buy a metal workbench in a store, then it will cost a considerable amount of money, but it is quite possible to make a workbench out of wood with your own hands.

Required tools and materials

So for self-made workbench in the garage you will need the following tools:

  • Hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
  • Roulette;
  • Square;
  • Building level;
  • Spanners;
  • Drill;
  • Screwdriver.

Materials:

  • bars for supports;
  • 2 sheets of plywood or OSB (one of the sheets is cut out for a shelf of the required size);
  • frame boards;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • bolts;
  • washers;
  • nuts.

Before work, you need to make a drawing of the workbench with dimensions for ease of assembly.

Step-by-step instructions for making a workbench

To make the upper frame, it is necessary to saw off the boards based on the required size of the workbench (see photo).

Using self-tapping screws, fix 2 long and 2 short boards, so that a rectangular frame is obtained. Using a tape measure, mark the distance to the middle of the frame, and perpendicularly, between two long boards, fix the remaining short board, attaching it with self-tapping screws from both ends.

To make the legs of the workbench, you will need to saw off 6 equal bars. WITH inside the resulting base in each corner of the frame, fix one leg with bolts, washers and nuts (see workbench diagram).

For the rigidity of the structure, it is necessary to put additional boards, which will also serve as the basis for the lower shelf. To do this, you need to saw off 4 boards.

With a tape measure, it is necessary to measure an equal distance from each leg of 30 cm, at the resulting level, fix the board to the rear of the structure to 3 legs, and from the front, fix the board between the extreme and middle legs, in the place where the future shelf is planned.

The remaining two boards must be fixed to the legs, at the same level as the shelf boards.

From one or several sheets of plywood or OSB using a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw, we cut out the necessary pieces. We fix them to the top of the workbench flush with self-tapping screws. Additionally, you can fix a sheet of hardboard on top, because it can be easily exchanged for a new one if the old one is badly worn out. The bottom shelf is made according to the same scheme. A tape measure measures the distance between the extreme and middle legs of the workbench, according to this size a sheet of material is cut out and installed on the resulting base.

When attaching legs or crossbars, you must use a square to obtain an equal distance between the parts of the structure. With the help of a level, at the installation site, you need to check whether the made workbench is level with your own hands. In the case of a slope, it must be leveled by means of a stand under the legs of the workbench of wooden chips.

For the convenience of processing wood, stone, plastic and metal, for finishing and assembly manipulations, a working joiner's workbench is often needed. To do it yourself, drawings are not required - they are needed for desktops complex design which are also described in this article.

Purpose and typical device of the workbench

Any workbench is a massive and necessarily stable worktable for processing products of various sizes. The larger its size, the larger and heavier the parts can be processed on it. Moreover, the work itself is performed both with a hand tool (hacksaw, brace, etc.), and mechanized - for example, using an electric drill or an electric planer. A carpenter's bench has the following typical layout:

  • The working surface is made of a massive board, at least 60 mm thick. For the lid of the workbench, it is advisable to use hardwood - beech, hornbeam or oak, otherwise it will have to be periodically changed due to rapid wear... The lid can be put together from individual dry boards and treated with linseed oil before installation;
  • A vice is "hung" on the front (front) part of the top cover for fixing the workpieces. If the linear dimension of the workbench exceeds 1 meter, you can install two vices - separately for large and small parts. Large vices should be made of wood, small ones are acceptable in the "steel version";
  • Bench supports are made of soft wood - pine or linden. The workbench supports made of wood are necessarily interconnected by longitudinal strips for the overall stability of the structure;
  • On the supports in the space underneath, pull-out or tightly fixed tool shelves can be located.

A number of holes are drilled in the front of the top cover to accommodate clamps, wedges, and other parts for attaching large parts. A recess is provided in the back of the working surface - it is designed for small parts and accessories. You can replace a difficult-to-manufacture recess with a perimeter of wooden slats.

A homemade workbench can have three types of design:

  • Mobile. A small table measuring about 70 x 80 cm in length and width, with one vice and weighing up to 30 kg. The lower legs are made of metal for added stability. Designed for minor repairs and work with light wood products;
  • Stationary workbench of simple design - easy to manufacture, but firmly "tied" to one place. Used for processing heavy boards and solid wooden blanks;
  • Composite on bolted connections... Convenient for its "collapsible" and ease of replacement of individual parts, but more difficult to manufacture than others.

Photo gallery: drawings with dimensions and designations

Let us consider in more detail the technique of self-production of stationary and adjustable workbenches. Stationary is dug into the ground on its own site, in the country or in the yard. If it is installed inside a garage or other work space, it is recommended that it be well attached to the floor so that the workbench does not swing during operation.

The editing sequence is as follows:

  1. Base - frame made of wooden beams, which is fastened so that the structure as a result comes out as reliable as possible. To do this, you need to place a jumper between the legs, and install a drawer in the middle. They are best placed at a distance of about 40 cm from the floor. By the way, they are also useful for creating additional shelves. The bars are aligned using construction glue. Where it is impossible to carry out such work, you need to use self-tapping screws. If you are going to make a disassembled tool, it is best to connect the supports with metal corners. In any case, first all the grooves are prepared, then the structure is assembled, the joints are processed with glue, we fix them with clamps. The best option when setting up a stationary workbench, it is considered the possibility of attaching part of the tool to the wall for reliability.

    The base is a frame made of beams

  2. If you build a tabletop from several boards, then it is important to knock them down as efficiently as possible so that debris and sawdust do not fall into the gaps. The dimensions should exceed the width and length of the base by 3-5 cm - this will allow you to clean the instrument with all the convenience.
  3. The table top is screwed and nailed to several boards, which are located on the other side of the working surface, and grooves must be placed in the base for mounting the bars.

    Boards are attached to a stable frame

  4. The work table must be tidied up with a grinder, covered with linseed oil to reduce the risk of injury from chips, and metal corners are bolted to its base.
  5. We attach a vice to the already made working surface, under which recesses should be created in the working surface, this will allow the vertical plate to be placed in the same plane with the tabletop. We install a plywood gasket on the underside, while it is important to make sure that the lips of the vise are flush with the surface. With a vise attached, mark the area where the holes will be drilled, and attach them with nuts. We mill the holes in advance so that the bolts "sink" in them. It is best to install the vise not in corners, which will make them reliable even under heavy loads.

    A vise or saw can be attached to the surface of the workbench

  6. In addition to the vice, you must also make stops. Of course, you can make them yourself, but it is better to purchase ready-made ones. However, if you decide to create them yourself, prepare rectangular stops that can be adjusted in height. Bolts should not be used, as they can damage the workpieces during operation. On the working surface we make holes for the stops, while it is desirable to place them at a distance of up to 50% of the vise stroke - this will allow you to securely fix any workpieces.

Video: workbench with a vice

Video: work table with a saw

How to make a simple do-it-yourself joinery workbench

  1. The top cover is knocked together from thick boards, from which a massive shield with a width of 70 cm and a length of up to 2 meters should be obtained. For fastening, long nails are used, hammered into the boards from the "front" side and carefully bent on the seamy wooden lintels. The working surface of the workbench is necessarily made of solid wood, fiberboard, chipboard and other materials from pressed shavings are absolutely not suitable for it.
  2. A good constructive solution would be to cover the lid along the lower perimeter with a 5 by 5 cm bar - later it is convenient to fix vertical supports to it. The increased weight of the cover will only give additional stability to the entire structure.
  3. The location of the vertical supports depends on the size of the top cover of our workbench. It is advisable to make them from a rectangular bar with dimensions from 120 to 120 mm. You can also take round wood as supports, but its fasteners are not as reliable as that of square (rectangular) bars. The height of the working surface is of great importance, the convenience of carpentry manipulations depends on it.
  4. It is optimal to set the upper cut of the supports at the level of the hand lowered down - due to the installation of the cover, the total height of the workbench will "grow" by 7-10 cm and it will become quite convenient to work on it. On the ground, we make markings for holes for vertical supports and dig them to a depth of 25-30 cm. Accordingly, the total length of the dug-in bars is 1.2-1.3 meters.
  5. Vertical bars are installed in the dug holes exactly, strictly according to the building level. The installed supports are connected in pairs using wide boards at a height of 20-40 cm. The transverse boards are attached to the vertical bars using long self-tapping screws. After that, a working surface is mounted on the ends of the supports. For its installation, self-tapping screws are used, since hammer blows on nails can move the frame of our structure.
  6. When the top cover is securely fixed, you can "hang" vices, clamps and other devices on it for the convenience of joinery.

If the design is more complex

When making a composite carpentry workbench do-it-yourself drawings will be required, although the manufacturing procedure itself is in many ways similar to that described above. The main differences are related to the use of bolted connections instead of self-tapping screws and the installation of tool boxes in the space underneath.

When the installation of the vertical supports is completed, they are connected to each other by horizontal jumpers. Previously, grooves for a nut and washer are hollowed out in each lintel using a chisel and a hammer (you can use special furniture bolts with C-nuts). Having set the jumper bar to the required height, a through hole is drilled in the vertical support and the horizontal bar, into which a long bolt is inserted. From the side of the prepared groove, a nut with a washer is "attached" to the bolt and carefully tightened along the thread.

Horizontal jumpers for the frame of a collapsible workbench will require two on all four sides. In addition, it is necessary to install 1-2 jumpers in the middle of the tabletop, directly below it. Horizontal rails are attached to these additional jumpers on small self-tapping screws, along which the drawers for the tool will slide. The boxes themselves are made "on site", that is, depending on the size of the mounting gap between the jumpers.

The working cover of the collapsible workbench is also bolted. In the upper part of the vertical supports, using a chisel, an assembly recess is hollowed out, holes for bolts are drilled in the cover. Because a flat working surface is required, the heads of the bolts are "recessed" in the cover due to the drilling of their seats with drills of the appropriate diameter.

Video: how to make your own milling table

The undeniable advantage of a collapsible workbench lies not only in the easy replacement of parts and the worktop itself. As you know, under the load from planing, drilling, with other machining, the most durable workbench loosens. It is much safer and easier to re-tighten the fastening bolts than to drive new nails or screws into the wood - so that collapsible models last much longer than knocked-down counterparts.

Video: folding workbench table

The design of your joinery workbench will depend on your needs. In order to make it with your own hands, minimal knowledge and skills are enough.

All photos from the article

Carrying out carpentry work in his home, any amateur craftsman should have a convenient device for them. It will guarantee the comfort and safety of your activity, and will significantly intensify it.

Our article is devoted to how to make a woodworking bench on your own.

Typical desktop design

A carpenter's workbench is, in fact, a massive and extremely stable work table, on which wood blanks of various sizes are processed. The larger the fixture, the heavier and more dimensional elements can be processed on it.

At the same time, you can work on it hand tools: saw, chisel, brace, etc., as well as mechanical: electric jigsaw, plane, drill, etc.

Layout of elements

The workbench for working with wood has the following typical elements.

  1. The working surface (table top, lid) is made of boards. They must be dry and have a thickness of at least 5 - 6 cm. The best option is to use oil soaked in drying oil: oak, hornbeam, beech. Otherwise, the cover will wear out quickly.
  2. A vice is installed on the front side of the tabletop to fix the workpieces.

Note! If the length of the workbench will be more than one meter, it is best to attach a couple of different vices for processing small and large items. Large vices can be made of wood, and small ones made of metal.

  1. Supports (legs) are usually made of soft wood: linden, pine, maple, etc. They are mated with each other by longitudinally spaced planks. So the structure gains strength and stability.
  2. With fixation on supports, in the space below the workbench cover, you can place slide-out or tight-fitting shelves, drawers or tool cabinets.
  3. On the front side of the tabletop, before making a workbench for wood, holes should be drilled for mounting wedges, clamps and other devices for fixing dimensional workpieces.
  4. Make a groove on the back of the lid for small parts.

I want to weld a workbench in the garage. Locksmith, as in a workshop.
To cook on it, and sharpen, and screw a vice, and put tools in boxes.

I managed to visualize my intentions. For a long time I went through different layout options and figured out the dimensions. I think I found the best option for myself.

Metal parts are blue, and wooden parts are yellow.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, girded with a 50x50x4 corner and covered with a 2mm sheet of metal. The workbench frame will be welded from shaped pipe 60x40x2. Stiffeners will be welded from a 40x40x4 corner. The shelves and side panels will be made of 30mm thick planks. From the 40x4 strip, guides will be made for attaching the side panels. The boxes will be welded from 2mm metal and installed on powerful skids.

For the purchase of metal, we agreed with Dikim to order a Gazelle for two in order to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 am, so as not to stretch it for the whole day, we went to the metal warehouse.

The weather was slimy and with a cold wind. A loader in a torn army pea jacket, apparently suffering from a hangover syndrome, took out wet metal for cutting. Nearby, in a puddle, lay a dirty carrier with a grinder connected to it. Cut off pieces of rolled metal plopped into a slushy puddle. The ordered Gazelle was waiting nearby. It was getting light.

Do not consider me a maniac, but after arriving at the garage, I washed with water and wiped dry grimy, rusty pieces of freshly bought metal. Anyway, clean it before painting, as it will be more pleasant to work with it.

On that harsh January morning, the following were bought:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
Only 121 kilograms of metal for 4000 rubles.
Now I will cook my workbench.

Cutting the main frame parts took two evenings, for a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 welded parts.
The tags indicate what it is and where to weld it.

Now you can safely put everything on the back burner and surrender to the thick, fetid, sticky quagmire of everyday hopeless routine.

Welded brackets for the toolbar above the workbench.

And the base for the homemade countertop was welded.

The base cross members for the worktop are welded flush with the corner. For this, curly cutouts are made in the crossbars. Here is a small drawing of how it looks:



In the meantime, scalded the toolbar brackets.

4mm strip pads reinforced the loaded joints.

Welded 24 brackets for side panels. The panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal and look better.

The brackets add additional rigidity to the entire structure.

I want to cover the countertop with a 4mm or 5mm sheet of metal. There is an office on Moskovsky Prospekt that immediately cuts sheets of metal to size. I need a sheet of 2200x750.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then there will be two good pieces (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the desired sizes.
If such pieces are useful to someone, then [b] let's cooperate, otherwise it is a little expensive for one.

Made boxes from 15mm plywood. Collected on 80mm screws. Each box contains 20 screws. It turned out solidly, as I like.

The size of each box is 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m

The skids were fastened by welding. I learned how to weld a 1mm tin to a 4mm strip with a 3mm electrode at a current of 100 amner. It's like putting a 3-liter V8 car engine in a food processor. It was just that the TIG was lazy to uncover. Moreover, it is holding securely so.

Now I think over different options facades.

At this point, the welding stage is over. Ahead carpentry and painting. Another small detail is locksmith and electrically conductive.

Painting the frame of a homemade workbench.
I asked the seller for advice on a good paint.
- Wah, what a good paint, I swear by my mother! - he answered, holding out a can of paint over rust with metal chips for 500 rubles.

Covered the countertop edged board 150x40. Fastened the boards to the frame with 4.0x35 self-tapping screws. I used 60 self-tapping screws in total.

I slightly sanded the surface so that the sheet of metal lay tighter.

I talked about protecting a tree from fire. Impregnated wood cannot sustain combustion by itself.
When impregnated wood is heated, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and restricts the access of oxygen to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation declared the 1st group of fire-retardant efficiency - the highest.

Of course, this does not allow welding metal directly on the surface of the workbench. Boards all the same if they do not catch fire, then they will be charred. To organize a welding station, I plan to weld a removable grate, which will reliably protect the surface of the tabletop from thermal effects.

After drying, I will cover the countertop with an already prepared 4mm sheet of metal.

I covered the countertop with 4mm sheet of metal. The sheet was attracted to the wooden base by rows of self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The table top is monumental.

I covered the extra openings in the workbench frame with 10mm plywood shields.
Pictured is a paint shop.

I registered permanent residents on the tabletop - a grinding machine and a vice. On a hefty countertop, they get lost.

1) What is the best way to cover bare metal on the countertop? Bow to a rust converter that will create a lasting protective film and which is easy to update when needed. Do you have any better ideas?
2) Where can I get a sturdy, height-adjustable chair?

P.S. I think those reading this thread will be interested - a bourgeois site with a bunch of ideas for welded tables and other welded ones: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ Follow the links to find the process of making everything presented.

Nevertheless, he decided and smeared the countertop with a rust converter. It is necessary to smear with a thin even layer.

While the countertop was drying finished with shelves in the left drawer

Well, in general, smearing the countertop was not a bad idea. The film really turned out, as if covered with varnish. True, it is not covered very neatly, but it is really easy to restore. the film is easily dissolved by a new portion of the converter and dries up again, hiding all the old damage.

From the large one - it remains to make a panel for tools and place fasteners on it for everything-everything-everything.
I would like to hang a sheet of plywood or one-piece furniture board 15mm thick and 2.2 meters x 1 meter in size. If anyone has one, I propose an exchange for a sheet of metal 4mm 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (left from the table top).

Well, in fact, what is it for ...

Test passed

Class! You no longer have to huddle with a hand-held power tool on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and tape measures on all available shelves and nooks and crannies around and look for them, forgetting where you put them - everything is in one place and at hand.

I mounted a toolbar. Solid, 21 mm plywood.

4 corners 50x50x4 plus 21 mm plywood plus 16 bolts 8x40 equally hang tens of kilograms of tools without fear of breaking something

Drawer fronts made from the remains of 21st plywood

That's all.
The dream workbench is ready. In some places, something came out crooked, but I am very pleased with the result.


The net weight of the workbench has exceeded 200 kilograms. The area of ​​the countertop is 1.65 square meters, the area of ​​the toolbar is 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right pedestals is almost one cubic meter. The peculiarity of the workbench is that you can sit behind it when working with the TIG, and the tabletop covered with a 4mm sheet of metal is not afraid of mechanical damage. Spacious shelves, drawers and a panel allow convenient storage of almost all of my tools, providing convenient quick access to it.
Here's a homemade dream workbench.
I think my great-grandchildren will still work on it.

P.S. And after a little revision, you get an excellent dressing room)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/15464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/

Well, to put an end to the project, a few more photos.

Self-tapping screws are screwed in and out quickly and easily (if you have a screwdriver, of course).

Over time I will add spanners, holders for drills and screwdrivers, a holder for paper towels, and additional lighting... Fortunately, two square meters there is where to turn around. I made an awesome thing. Happy with aki elephant.

First, the small vice could not withstand the load and burst.

Instead, a more powerful vice is installed. On one side they have a five-pointed star cast, on the other - the numbers 1958 - probably the year of issue. So they are 56 years old? I hope they last the same for me. In general, a good vice is the pride of a master.

The photo shows that the tabletop does not protrude much beyond the dimensions of the table. Therefore, when attaching the vice to the bolts, it will not be possible to crawl from below to tighten the nut. That's what I intended. The vise and sharpener are fixed to the table top with anchor bolts. It looks neat and holds on deadly.

Secondly, it turned out that the deep drawers in the right cabinet are not very convenient. It was better to make them smaller. I will come up with some kind of organizers inside them.

The rest turned out to be a great thing. All tools in one place, visible and always ready. The large countertop also has plenty of room to decompose.

You can purchase some of the items from this blog in our VKontakte group:

A properly equipped work area for carrying out locksmiths, or installation works on wood, or metal, should be distinguished by convenience and functionality. It is available to make the central part - a workbench made of wood with your own hands, completing the project according to individual drawings.

The locksmith's workbench is a special design in the form of a table equipped with various electromechanical devices. The surface must have a high level of strength for fixing additional equipment... Drawers, shelves, tool holders will help to increase the functionality of the arrangement.

A do-it-yourself workbench made of wood has differences depending on the intended purpose: for locksmith, carpentry work on wood, or equipment for metal processing. The standard design includes:

  • a frame, or a podstachie;
  • tray or box cover;
  • shelves, boxes;
  • apron.

Tables are multi-seater, or single. Standard drawings of the dimensions of the latter correspond to the indicators of width 800 cm and length 1.5 m. Multiple options increase depending on the desired number of working areas.

The height of the structure is selected individually (800-900 cm). There are also height adjustable products. The material for making the table is wood, or metal. The table top is finished with sheets of galvanized sheet, plywood, hardboard, or boards.

Basic requirements and preparatory work


A do-it-yourself wood locksmith's workbench must meet the working criteria for arrangement and safety. It is also important to pre-determine the type of structure that implies stationarity, mobility, or the possibility of disassembly.

Selecting a construction project

Wondering how to do working area convenient and functional, you will need to familiarize yourself with the basic design aspects of the workbench. The choice of design is purely individual and depends on the specifics of the application.

A do-it-yourself garage workbench can be designed using three main options:

  1. Portable (mobile). The equipment is optimally suited for small spaces, easy to move due to its low weight. A portable table is advisable to use for small jobs. Additionally, a do-it-yourself workbench can be completed with a vice, or emery.
  2. Stationary. The massive structure is designed for dimensional work (sawing). Product drawings should take into account the practicality of installation. The workbench is optimal for installation in a workshop in a private house. In the garage box, the equipment will take up too much space, rarely used for technological operations.
  3. National team. The design is carried out on bolted connections, which allows you to modify the equipment depending on the building needs. The assembly process is quite laborious. Fasteners of vibrating devices installed on such a machine require constant tightening.

When deciding to make a do-it-yourself workbench in the garage out of wood, it is recommended to choose a mobile design project. If a stationary installation is required, you can simply fix the legs of the equipment to the floor. The prefabricated structure is durable, due to the possibility of replacing damaged or loose parts.

Drawing up a drawing

After choosing a project, you should complete the drawings of the future product. There are indicative parameters, the use of which is not an axiom. Making a do-it-yourself workbench made of wood, the drawings can be brought under the desired parameters of the height and width of the tabletop. The height of the product, first of all, should correspond to the growth of the master.

When drawing up drawings, additional parameters should be taken into account:

  • the number of shelves, pedestals;
  • installation of limiters;
  • the presence of clamping devices;
  • lighting.

Drawers, tool holders, will make the work process more comfortable. Limiters make it easier to work with elements different sizes... The clamping equipment (vise) will help to securely fix the samples. High-quality lighting will ensure ease of use, so it is important to think over the layout of the lamps in advance.

Material characteristics

A do-it-yourself workbench made of wood must strictly comply with generally accepted standards of strength and safety. Joiner's table installed in technical rooms, which will require taking into account temperature regime, the level of humidity when choosing materials of manufacture.

The quality characteristics of wood should be characterized by hardness and resistance to destruction. A porous material, even with good moisture-insulating properties, will not have the required level of strength. It is recommended to make a wooden workbench from planed timber and boards.

The cross-section of the frame for the frame depends on the size of the structure. Compact products will require the use of 100x70 material, larger ones - 100x100. The choice of the board must correspond to the thickness indicators of at least 50. It is available to make the workbench universal, combining the possibility of joinery and locksmith's work. You will need to make a section of the countertop with sheet metal upholstery.

Metal can be used as the main material of manufacture. The option turns out to be massive and heavy, appropriate for stationary projects.

Disadvantage metal structure there is no leg opening in the table. This element has a negative impact on the ability of the base to withstand dynamic loads.

Fasteners

The table for performing locksmith work must have strong and reliable fasteners. The bolts are selected to the required thickness, leaving room for the washer, spring and nut. The use of nails raises a number of controversies. This type of fastener can split the frame beam, or cause a violation of the verticality of the parts. Dismantling or replacing a component part of the workbench can be difficult, due to the difficulty of removing a tightly hammered nail.

The most advisable is the use of self-tapping screws. A do-it-yourself workbench in the mobile version of the project can be additionally reinforced with strips, corners, or metal plates. You can achieve the required strength of the connection by choosing the optimal length of the mounting leg. The width of the part should be three times the thickness of the base to be fastened.

Carpentry workbench assembly process


A do-it-yourself workbench table made of wood during the assembly process requires special attention to making the corners. Even a slight misalignment, violation of the level, will lead to the curvature of the structure. In the course of work, it will be necessary to regularly measure the evenness of the joints of the structure.

The layout and manufacture of workbench parts should be carried out according to the outlined drawing calculations. Samples must be carefully finished and polished. It is recommended to select a special composition for wood processing, increasing the resistance of the material to destruction, moisture and damage by mold, fungus.

It is important not to ignore the drying process of the parts. This stage cannot be accelerated artificially by applying heat. As a result, surface deformation may occur. Evaporation of moisture should occur naturally, against a background of good ventilation and even temperature indicators in room.

Assembling the base of the workbench

The do-it-yourself workbench is assembled from the base - a supporting frame made of beams. Achieve the required strength and reliability of the structure will help the "thorn-groove" assembly option. The connection details are additionally treated with an adhesive. Fasteners made of self-tapping screws and reinforcement elements will advantageously complement the installation of the base.

Planting base parts on glue is advisable in a closed garage or workshop. If you plan to use the table in unheated rooms, or on the street, glue fixation is not used, because if it is necessary to replace the table part, the frame will need to be reassembled.

Massive structures can be reinforced with diagonal or horizontal lintels. Omissions in the additional rigidity of the product at the design stage, it is possible to modify it during the assembly process.

Forming the countertop

A high-quality desktop surface should take into account the need for replacement. The tabletop is most susceptible to intense stress when performing locksmith or carpentry work. The mobility of dismantling the elements should be thought out in advance, fixing the tabletop using special metal corners.

The width of the plane must be greater than the size of the base, which will allow the attachment of additional removable equipment. The lack of an edge will make the worktop uncomfortable and limit the functionality of the surface.

The assembly process involves laying the boards face down. It is important to work on a level surface. Further, perpendicular to the base, the elements are fastened with bars.

The installation of wooden parts of the countertop should be carried out ensuring maximum tightness, avoiding the formation of gaps. On the final stage the front side of the countertop is sanded and treated with impregnating pastes.

Additional equipment of the workbench

Having figured out how to make a workbench out of wood with your own hands, you should think over the necessary details for equipping the desktop. Installation of additional equipment is carried out depending on the selected design modification.

Fastening the vise will require preliminary preparation of the recess. The top of the vise (lips) should be flush with the surface of the countertop. Equipment for fixing specimens to work requires a strong fixing. It is advisable to use bolts and nuts, allowing, if necessary, to dismantle the device. It is recommended to position the vise, stepping back from the corner of the tabletop, in order to avoid equipment breakdown.

The prudent equipping of the workbench with stops will allow you to conveniently fix the parts during work. Rectangular indentations require special holes to be cut with a jigsaw. Installing locksmith tools for carpentry work will increase the functionality of the table. Stationary power tools are fastened with self-tapping screws.

Having familiarized yourself with the basics of equipment, assembling a workbench with your own hands, it becomes possible to develop and implement interesting ideas... By modifying and equipping the structure, based on individual preferences, you can create the optimal version of the working area.

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