The best option to warm the balcony. Hearth balcony with their own hands

The cellar is a mandatory extension in the country or near a private house. In this room round year The optimal temperature for saving vegetables, fruits, conservation and blanks is held. Build a cellar is quite possible. To do this, it is necessary to estimate the condition of the soil, determine optimal type Constructions, pick up materials and stick to the selected technology.

Requirements for the settlement of the cellar

The cellar will serve as the optimal place for harvested conservation and grown crop. In this room, natural conditions are supported and temperature mode About + 4 ° C. A favorable microclimate is needed to preserve the commodity and taste characteristics of fruits and vegetables.

Some confuse the concepts of the cellar and basement. However, these are completely different facilities. The basement is placed in the basement of the building. The cellar is equipped separately - apart on panstone. The design is made inconspicuous, or vice versa, acts as a bright element of landscape design.

The practical use of a vegetable store is possible subject to certain conditions:

the presence of a low temperature - the cellar is built under the ground or places in the base in contact with the outer wall of the house;
darkening - in the design of the cellar, windows are excluded;
constant filling clean and fresh air Thanks to the natural I. support and exhaust ventilation;
air humidity is about 80-90%.

Selection of optimal design and materials

Depending on the depth of the occurrence, the following types of cellar are distinguished.

Ground constructions rises above the surface, the depth of the design is not more than one meter. In essence, it is a small branch for vegetables. Labaz can be erected anywhere, even in small lowlines.

The construction of the "garden" labaza is the optimal solution for overwhelmed areas and low-lying territories. Distinctive trait Ground cellar - no overlap. As a rule, a duplex roofing from the boards is equipped. Due to this, the deadlines and the final price of the construction of the vegetable stores are reduced. An additional plus is the ease of building such a celler with your own hands.

A more spacious ground cellar - externally, the construction resembles a small house. On top of the overlap, the land is poured closing the overlap of a thick layer. Unprotected remains the end side with the door. Over the backfill landing lawn grass, adorning the territory and holding the roots of the soil from sprinkle.

Semi-breeding cellar. - the most popular type of construction. The design is externally similar to the ground construction, but part of the room (about 1.5 m) is under the ground. Entrance door The crust is located below the surface of the soil, so it is necessary to provide a tale / rainwater removal system. Door design is thoroughly insulated.

Outflowed cellar Well suited for compact sites. However, its construction is possible only at low groundwater or with the arrangement of solid drainage and waterproofing. The input can be covered with a thermal insulating removable lid or decorated with a special mortar - a small house with a hatch in the overlap. The tribrian can be used as an economic room for the placement of garden-garden equipment, various household items or vegetables.

The cellar walls are erected from different materials: Stone, brick, concrete or asbestos-cement sheets. Building is not desirable to build from metal, as it is difficult to achieve a suitable temperature mode.

When using the Earth as the main material for the walls from the inside, the cream is trimmed by wood. Wooden rails need to dry well, polish, handle the antiseptic and recycle.

Make a cellar with your own hands: Video of the selection of materials

How to make a cellar with your own hands: Bloomred design

Evaluation of the terrain and state of soil

The best location of the cellar is a hill, subgroup or elevation. Ground waters in such cases pass far from the surface of the Earth. When placed on the hill, rainwater is reduced. In addition, it will be possible to save on waterproofing materials.

Many prefer to build a cellar next to the residential house, to get faster and take the right products in the cold season, in the rain, etc.

Before starting the construction, it is necessary to know the type of soil and the possibility of a plated / semi-breeding vegetable construction. To do this, a small test should be held:

At the construction site of the crust, lay a piece of natural wool, and from above - a raw egg.
Cover the "construction" by the bank and leave for one night.
Assess the result of the experiment:
- if the wool has dew droplets, then groundwater is located nearby;
- if the egg and the wool is dry - then the occurrence of water is deep and safe can be started to work.

Before building a cellar with their own hands, it is desirable to estimate the type of soil:

Peat - optimal type for embankment. This soil minimizes the damage of products, which is particularly relevant when storing root.
Swimming is a grateful soil that is not suitable for the construction of the "internal" cellar. Such soil contains loams, sand and sandy. To have the opportunity to build a vegetable store, you will have to replace the soil and add sand.
Sand soil is well suited for ground arrangement. This natural material Frequently added to lower the graininess and reduction of moisture content.

Materials and tools

To improve the cellar in the country, you will need:

crushed stone and gravel;
sand speck;
clay solution;
rolls of rubberoid;
brick;
cement;
boards for arrangement of fire frame;
concrete brand 100;
melted bitumen;
grid for reinforcement.

From the tools should be prepared:

concrete mixer;
manual tamping;
shovels;
screws, screwdriver, nails, hammers;
welding machine;
bulgarian;
primer;
brush;
hacksaw.

Preparation of catlovana

The construction of a bellbed storage begins with a flipping of a pit. The work is performed in the following sequence:

Plot clean from stones, stick and vegetation.
Apply markup and die out. Traditional cellar dimensions: length / width - 2.5 m, depth - 2.3 m. For digging, it is better to use the services of the excavator.
Walls of the pits to level the shovel, scraping the surplus of the earth and giving them a smooth surface.
The depth of the pit depends on the type of cellar of the cellar. When determining this value it is necessary to consider that the space partially will occupy the hatch or entrance, racks, a staircase. In view of this, the pit is necessary to pull out with a certain stock.
Take the bottom of the bottom of the pit, pour sand with gravel sand into the pit. The thickness of the sand pillow is 20 cm, gravel - 10 cm.

Fabrication arrangement

The tie of the floor is better to perform with clay mortar. For its preparation it is necessary to connect clay and quartz sand in the proportion of 90% / 10%. Dilute with water, bringing the condition of thick sour cream. Prepared solution to pour gravel to a thickness of 3-4 cm.

To increase the strength characteristics of the base and provide better isolation from the penetration of groundwater, the cream is recommended to additionally strengthen concrete. Procedure:

Prepare a mass made of sand and concrete in a ratio of 5: 1, respectively.
The clay base after drying to pour with a concrete solution with a thickness of 5 cm.
Split the surface and leave to full pouring.

Construction and waterproofing of walls

The construction technology of brick walls is as follows:

To equip the foundation for masonry width in 1 brick, height - about 15 cm.
Leave the foundation for drying.
The masonry is performed from the angle of the wall where the doorway is provided.
Bricks are placed in a checker.
Putting a brick, it is necessary to catch a handle of the trunk, it will help get rid of surplus solution and improve the grip of materials.
After the construction of each row, it is necessary to check the construction level.
The working solution is prepared from sand and cement in a ratio of 4: 1, respectively.
In parallel with the masonry, the pouring of the slots and the space between the brick and the earthy wall by clay solution is performed. Such technology provides additional waterproofing of a vegetable store.
After the construction of all the walls, leave construction for 1 week to solidification of the solution.

Brick walls need waterproofing. For this purpose, hydrokhotloxoles, rolled insulators or bitumen mastic are usually used. Sequence of insulation work:

Treat all surfaces with water-repellent composition.
Ruberoid sheets are attached to the walls - fixation of the material is performed by means of heated bitumen mastic. To ensure high-quality insulation, you will need 2-3 layers.
Wall to launch cement.

Construction of overlapping

Arrangement of overlapping is a responsible event. Supporting constructs must withstand heavy loads. Often the overlap is performed from a monolithic block made of concrete and reinforcing frame. It is important that the roofing of the cellar in the area exceeds the size of the room, since the walls will act as carrying supports.

Performance algorithm:

Install the backups to which a wooden formwork will later be relying.
Formwork before the fill must be carefully sealed so that the solution does not flow through the slots.
After preparing the formwork, make a frame of concrete slabs from fittings. The step of the armature rrutes is about 25 cm, the height of the frame is up to 30 cm.
With a large cellar area, it is recommended to perform double reinforcing plates.
The mesh of the reinforcement should be beyond the limits of the cellar wall by 5-10 cm from different sides.
The resulting frame is evenly pouring with concrete solution.

After filling the plate you have to wait 3-4 weeks. The overlap fully solidifies and will take the final appearance.

Ventilation system and supply of electricity

Good air exchange - important condition The preservation of products located in the cellar. The absence of normal ventilation will lead to the rotten of vegetables, and too fast circulation of air flows - to the drying of the root.

In the technical room it is preferable to create natural ventilation - it is less costly, and its correct organization will provide sufficient air exchange. To implement, you will need to equip the supply-exhaust air duct. The exhaust element is located at the top of the ceiling, and the supplied hole is on the opposite wall at a floor of the floor.

Order of creation natural ventilation In the cellar do it yourself:

Choose an air duct at a rate of 1 kV. M Square of Break - 26 square meters. See pipe.
Installation of the pipe is performed from the angle of the room, and its lower end should be located under the ceiling. The air duct passes through the entire room, the roof, towering over sling system half meter.
So that in the pipeline was not going condensate, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation of the exhaust pipe on the principle of the sandwich. One pipe is installed in another, and the space between them is filled with mineral wool.
The open end of the air pipe is located at a distance of 50 cm from the lower level of the floor. The exhaust air duct permeates the overlap, ending in 80 cm above the base.
The outer hole of the pipe cover the grid.
It is advisable to put on the valves regulating the air flow.

Electrification of the cellar is performed using a copper cable with dual or triple insulation.

Internally design cellar

At the end mounting work You can proceed with the improvement of the cellar. Registration options Several:

make the walls with racks with spacious shelves;
hang metal shelves;
set prefabricated racks.

Important! All wood structures should be covered with insect composition and protective impregnation from humidity.

Ground cellar with their own hands: Step-by-step instructions

At the cottage, you can equip a simple cellar with your own hands at a high level of groundwater. The air temperature is capable of 2-3 ° C. We will analyze the example of the construction of a vegetable store with a type of labaza having dimensions:

the height of the construction center is 2 m;
width - 3.3 m, length - 3 m;
the width of the passage is 0.6 m.

Sequence of work:

Logs based on the soil, to deceive hot bitumen mastic.
The overlap is performed from the boards, and the elements of the crate - from the heated hill, obapol, glinometers, pine trim from the pylorama.
Rights of the roofs should rely on the ground. Such an installation provides additional thermal insulation in the form of snowy snowdrifts during the cold season. As a result, a construction is formed as a tent.
On the one hand, Labaz is sewn with two rows of boards, between which the insulation is laid. In another end there is a warmed door.
From the outer part of the labase around the perimeter, dig a drainage trench, which prevents natural waters.
Near the skate make an exhaust - wooden box with adjusting plate.

Construction of the cellab do it yourself: video

Questions related to the arrangement of basement of private houses are always abounding, even when the construction of the basement is carried out simultaneously with the construction of the house. Especially difficult to fold the basement under the house, when the building was handed over to the residence of people.

Why required a basement under residential house

The idea of \u200b\u200bthe construction of the basement under the house arises, as a rule, in cases where the reasons that prevented the construction of the basement in the process of building a house are disappeared or eliminated during the construction of the house, or without the basement it is simply impossible to do.

Most often, the owners agree to build a basement at home:

From local aquifers close to the surface of the soil, water has gone. The level of groundwater allows you to make a basement or cellar without regard to the possibility of flooding the room;
Store the crop just nowhere, the existing cellar is small, and it is not possible to upset or increase it, so you need to make a basement under a part of the house;
The powers and the level of primer freezing is quite high, the basement made will allow partially to insulate the foundation and reduce the threat of destruction of the base of the base of the house.

Important! In any case, the construction of the basement will be difficult to do own hands Huge volume of earthworks.

The best option would be to make a basement under a part of the house, for example, from the economic or auxiliary premises of the house. Digging a residential room will require tolerate a large number of Extracted soil and dirt, do it without consequences for the situation inside the house quite difficult.

The second, no less interesting way to build a basement - make it with a separate entrance from the street. In this case, the tenants of the house will be completely delivered from the problems associated with the gaming of the pit.

Where and how to make a basement

For conventional tape designs of the foundation, the basement does not represent a special problem, except that most construction and finishing operations have to be done in extremely inconvenient constrained conditions. In this case, the main thing is to make a pit for a basement with dimensions of the walls, which at least on the meter-one and a half do not reach the tape base of the foundation.

Much comprehensive situation With low-boiled or slab designs of the foundation. In the first case, it makes no sense to make a basement room, but to delve into the ground below the level of the base surface of the foundation tape is dangerous, it can lead to a dumping concrete base Houses in the boobing basement.

For the slat structures of the foundation of problems, how to make a damp correctly, it practically does not occur if after arranging the basement the specific pressure on the ground will not exceed its bearing capacity. The construction of any building is performed with a certain reserve of the pressure of the pressure on the ground, but the double decrease in the base surface of the plate after construction of the basement can lead to a different slab massif.

Therefore, before deciding where and how to make a basement under the house with your own hands, it is worth consulting experienced specialists in the construction of foundations.

Build a basement, how to make a basement with minimal cost

In addition to the security of the basement, each owner wants to make a basement at home with minimal cost Forces, labor and materials. But in this case, savings on concrete or metal is inappropriate when it comes to the safety of the whole house.

It is easier and cheaper to do a basement, if there is already a semi-breeding room in the house design, for example, a brick caisson with pumping equipment for a well. In this case, it remains only to expand it and make the walls of normal height.

The arrangement of any basement is performed in four stages:

Initially, the position of the future basement under the building is determined, all the elements are identified on the sketch on the scale to understand where the input will be, and how difficult it is to make such an input;
A pit is digging - a pit for the sizes of the future basement;
Laid out of the brick or molded from concrete wall, the floor plate is concreted;
Ceiling overlap is equipped, which must be made in the basement necessarily. Otherwise, water vapors will break through overlap.

Besides right choice Schemes for the placement of the basement under the building, it will be necessary to think about how to make a convenient design of the stairs, which will be descended to the basement. Most. simple way You can make a stepped staircase of two steel spans. Such a staircase simply can be made from a tubular profile and sheet metal with your own hands and install the basement indoors.

How to make a pitt for the basement

Today there are two ways to dig the pit under the house. Both options are widely used to arrange underground rooms and galleries.

The first method involves the horizontal recess of the soil. Before starting work, you need to make a shtern section 80x80 cm on the depth of the future basement. If there is no groundwater under the building, then you can do without a pit, otherwise it will be necessary to make a small niche in ground floorwhere to insert drainage pump For pumping groundwater. If the Shurf remains dry for three days, the pump can be removed.

To make the process of coppe boothes relatively safe, it is necessary to carry out a ventilation pipe and lighting. To remove the soil, you can make a winch or invite assistant, the second option is more expensive, but more reliable. It will take at least a week for digging of the pit item.

The second way provides for a radical acceleration of the coppe process. For example, floors and insulation on the first or basement floor are removed, the layout of the future basement is performed. The soil is erupted by the electric robe to the required depth, after which the pit is pretty shovel shovels. In this way, it can be done for 12-15 hours of work.

Important! Open method Ribs are safer and simple to be easily simplified concrete works, wall decoration and styling ceiling basement.

Arrangement of a stone basement

Regardless of whether there is water in the pit in the pit, or not, it is necessary to make the bottom drainage. You can save on an inexpensive drainage scheme, especially if the belt foundation has its own drainage system, but it is better to be restrained and put on the perimeter of the finished pit drainage pipe, squeeze crushed stone, sand, put waterproofing and reinforcement grid. Only after this fill concrete slab. If this is not done immediately, when water appears, the pressure on the bottom of the concrete box will be so large that the moisture will leak through the microcracks along with liquid clay.

Experts recommend to equip the basement at home in the form of a monolithic concrete box. Often in front of the casting of the box of concrete, the ground walls of the pita are peeled with ceramic brick, which is welded with rolled waterproofing. Next, the installation of a reinforcing frame from a rod with a diameter of 10-12 mm. You must first install vertical rods and link them with revenue of fittings from the floor plate. After that, horizontal reinforcement threads are laid out, which are supplied at the corners using M-shaped bent rods 70-80 cm long.

The formwork for casting the walls is better to immediately do with struts of shields. Such a gain allows you to accept one-time required amount Concrete from a car system. For the manufacture of framework frames, the timber is suitable with a cross section of 100x50 mm and normal board - Muyumovka.

Flood concrete solution Parts are very long and uncomfortable. At the same time, the concrete mass unloaded into the formwork must be pierced by an electrovibrator, achieving the maximum compaction quality.

Two words about radon

Experts recommend to make a basement not only due to high strength and good waterproofing walls. Concrete effectively restrains the penetration of radon to the basement. In the stony soils with a low level of groundwater, the owners prefer to lay out the basement with ordinary red bricks, which has almost nothing to give any resistance.

Considering the fatal danger of radon and extremely ineffective removal from the basements with the help of ordinary supply and exhaust ventilation, it is better to make the basement box in the form of a monolithic concrete casting.

Assembling ceiling overlap

The manufacture of the ceiling slab is considered one of the most complex stages of construction. Initially, the tubes of the basement of the basement are installed on the walls of a concrete box of the base and hardened in special hoses wiring for lighting.

On the walls are driven fasteners for mounting a metal staircase. After that, the location of the input is determined and installed a steel or wooden frame of the door or hatch.

Next, it is necessary to make a steel reinforcing frame of the ceiling slab, for this, use a standard reinforcing bar, a diameter of 12 mm. One of the ways to make the slab provides for the pump on the walls of the concrete of a solid row of asbestos-cement pipes, after laying the reinforcement and formwork, the entire design is poured with a layer of concrete, a thickness of 120-150 mm.

An easier way to make a stove is to cast it on the walls in parts, separate plates of up to 50 cm wide. For this, it is used for the re-made reusable formwork made of metal and four rack jacks. After completing the joints, the joints between the plates must be pouring into a concrete solution.

Conclusion

Methods of construction basement under the building ready House It is not particularly different from the technology of the construction of an ordinary basement. The only obstacle in work, due to which the construction time increases at least twice, is the impossibility of the full use of special equipment. In addition, a large amount of manual labor significantly increases the cost of work. Today, the builders team for the construction of a concrete basement under the residential house will request at least 5 thousand dollars, while the usual option is built for 2-2.5 thousand dollars.

We learn how to equip the cellar at home with your own hands for convenient storage of reserves, from root plates and potatoes to your own conservation.

For the storage of root plates, the potatoes in the country or rustic house often use the cellar under the house. The settlement of the cellar in the basement has a number of advantages: for vegetables it is not necessary to go anywhere, they are always at hand, in addition, the device of insulated walls and floors is not required, since the temperature in the basement of the heated house is almost always plus. From the disadvantages it should be noted an increase in humidity in the basement, however, it is easy to fight with this disadvantage, equipping exhaust and supply ventilation.

How to make a cellar at home

Build a cellar at home with your own hands is possible both at the stage of booking the foundation and after the construction of the house. In the first case, the task is significantly facilitated by the fact that it is provided with full access to the basement for excavation works. In the case of the construction of the cellar in the finished house with overlaps and the impose floors, the task is complicated by the fact that you will have to dig a pit manually and put out the ground out of the room.

Determination of groundwater level and cellar depth

One of the requirements of the cellar arrangement in the subfield of the house is its absorbance by 1.5-1.8 meters, otherwise the temperature in the cellar will increase above + 8 ° C, and vegetables will be badly stored. In order to buerate the cellar, it is necessary to find out the level of groundwater on the site. If the construction of the cellar is carried out simultaneously with the construction of the foundation of the house, this task is facilitated - prior to the start of construction usually perform a geodesic study of the site. If the cellar is decided in the long-built house, it is necessary to determine the maximum level of groundwater independently.

There are several ways to find out:

To drill a well to a depth of at least 2.5 meters and, leaving it for several days, to watch whether water will appear in it;
Find out the water level in the nearest wells.
Checking the level of groundwater is necessary during the active melting of snow and flood, or during the autumn protracted rains. It is then that it will be maximum, and when it is determined, it is possible to reliably install whether the water rises to the required height.

When groundwater level, 1 meter to the floor of the floor at home from the cellar device in the house will have to abandon and build a remote cellar elsewhere. If it fluctuates at a level of 1-1.5 meters, you can try to reduce it by setting up a drainage system around the perimeter of the house deeper than the estimated level of the cellar floor. At the same time, the cellar walls will need to be highly insulated, as well as arrange clay hydraulic water around them.

Ideally, the depth of the cellabe should be 1.9-2.2 meters, it will be conveniently located at such a depth to it, and the temperature will be installed at + 5 ° C, which is optimal for storing vegetables.

Technology of the cellar device and construction work

It is necessary to start with the definition of the required sizes of the cellar - they must satisfy all the needs for storing vegetables and cans with conservation. Usually, the sizes of the cellar are at least 5 m2 - with such sizes there is enough space and under containers with roots, and under racks with banks. The size of the kit should exceed the sizes of the hole at a minimum of 0.6 meters on each side, of which 25-30 cm will take walls from the monolithic concrete, and the rest of the space is necessary for the waterproofing device and the clay lock.

Kopping is digging with the use of special equipment when building a house, or manually, if the cellar is equipped after its construction. If the soil crepts, it is necessary as the cutlets are shrouded.
The bottom of the pit must be opened below the estimated level by 20-30 cm, align and fall asleep with its rubble. Crushed stone compacted, after which the bottom of the bottom of the concrete on reinforcement preparation. The reinforcement can be both from the rod and from the reinforcement grid, it should be beyond the inner area of \u200b\u200bthe cellar floor to form a solid connection of the floor and walls with the walls of the walls. Concrete dried within 2-3 days, after that you can start the construction of the cellar walls.
The walls are better to perform from monolithic moisture-resistant concrete - moisture resistance concrete purchases with special compositions for penetrating waterproofing. For the pouring of the walls, formwork is performed from the boards, fastening them with nails with the help of bars, screeds and dies. Boards Better to take Straghant - it will make it easier to remove the formwork. The formwork width is 30 cm, so the device of the reinforcement frame must be carried out as it is erected. The reinforcement rod with a diameter of 8-12 mm is laid along the cellar walls of 2 bar, connecting them in the corners with the adjacent wall fittings. The rods in the crossbar places are associated with a soft wire, the lower tier, besides, are connected to the reinforcement protruding from the cellar floor. By 1.5-2 meters of wall height, 3-4 reinforcement tiers are needed. Vertical bonds are provided with a garter to the rods, stuck in the corners of the formwork. The height of the formwork should reach the black floor. At the same time, it is necessary to provide trips for pipes exhaust and supply ventilation Near the opposite walls of the cellar.
Produce fill with concrete. Concrete for this purpose is better to order ready, as it will be needed quite a lot. After the fill, the concrete must be protected with a deep vibrator or just pierce the metal rod, a pipe segment or a wooden pole - this will help remove the air from the thickness of the concrete. Drying concrete lasts about a week, and three more weeks is necessary for a set of full industrial strength.
After complete drying of the concrete, it is possible to remove the formwork and proceed to external waterproofing. Waterproofing is performed using bitumen mastic. Applying it to the outer side of the walls of the celler with a roller in three or four layers. After applying the last layer outer walls The cellar is sealed with a rubberoid on mastic, dried and performing the ground or clay castle. The need to perform a clay castle depends on the level of groundwater, if the flooding is possible - it should be done. For this, clay is mixed with coarse sand and water to the formation of plastic mass, similar to the consistency on plasticine. The clay solution layers layer in the pit and the trambet tightly.
Internal waterproofing of the cellar must be performed both for sex and walls. For the floor, the most reliable option is to fill with hot bitumen, followed by its rubberoid. Ruberoid It is necessary to bend on the height of the floor tie. The walls can be hydroizing the mastic on a polymeric basis or with the help of solutions for penetrating waterproofing - they are vapor-permeable, so the moisture secreted by rootes will be discharged into the outer stroke of concrete. The floor is performed from concrete with a slope of 1-2 degrees towards the technical pit - this will ensure the dryness of the cellar even in the humid time of the year.
Interior decoration The cellar includes the execution of the staircase, the lid of the hatch, as well as the device exhaust and supply isolation. The staircase is performed from a tree impregnated with an antiseptic, the angle of inclination is trying to do so that it is convenient to descend. The width of the steps is about 20 cm. The hatch cover is the entrance to the cellar, it must fully lean in to avoid injuries with its spontaneous lowering. Ventilation pipes are inserted into pre-prepared penetrations and seal by mounting foam or sealant. Wherein exhaust ventilation must be located at the ceiling in the very wet place The cellar, where the pit is made, and the supply tube is better lowering almost to the floor at the opposite wall. Pipes will be outlined. .

The construction of the cellar is not such a difficult thing as the construction of the house. However, the products in it are kept for a long time, you need to create the right microclimate, which is achieved by its design. Consider the types of cellars and types of materials used, options for ventilation devices, as well as phased construction with photos and videos.

A little harvest, you need to save it. Vegetables, fruits, home preservation are perfectly stored in the cellar, in which the optimum temperature and humidity is supported. For this, there are various constructive and technical techniques that are easy to master homemade MasterTo equip a all-season refrigerator in the country with zero power consumption. Construction correctly lead in the summer, in dry weather.

Types of cellars

The cellar is distinguished by the materials used, equipped, with an area, as well as the level of rehabilitation relative to the conditional zero - the surface of the Earth.

Cellab with different levels of reel

Bulk level is desirable to choose based on the terrain, groundwater level, soil type and climatic features of the region.

Types of cellar: 1 - beugoned; 2 - half-breed; 3 - land

Before starting work, it is desirable to determine the level of groundwater in the country. If there is no well there is a well to see the water level, use dedovsky method. To find a dry place on the plot used to use a simple way: in dry summer weather in the evening on the ground peeled from grass, a little low-fat sheep wool was laid, a fresh egg and covered with a can or pot. Early in the morning they checked - if everything was in dew - the water is close, wool in dew, and the egg is dry - the water is deep, everything is dry - the water is completely deep.

Ground cellar.

If the groundwater level is very high, you can build an underground cellar, but then you have to perform serious waterproofing and drainage work so that it does not work out that the cellar was built, and the well was built. Best design For such a case, especially if the soil is a buming - ground cellar.

It is built for reliability on the elevation as an ordinary house, and the heat-insulation is an earthen embankment - an embankment, which closes the thick layer of all sides of the structure, except the entrance that is insulated with various materials. On the entire surface of the backfill, the grass is planted, which will take the decoration and root keeps the earth from sprinkles. It turns out something like a mound having a door.

Overhead cellar: 1 - drainage pillow of sand and / or rubble; 2 - walls (wood, brick, stone); 3 - Earth embankment; 4 - overlapping (boards or railway plate, rubberoid, straw + clay); 5 - waterproofing of walls (bituminous mastic + ruberoid); 6 - global floor; 7 - Flooring

Semi-breeding cellar.

If the soil waters are located deeper than 1 m, you can build a semi-breastned cellar. Its design is similar to an overhead structure, but under half the inserted into the ground. The door to the cellar is located below the soil level, so it is desirable to provide for the removal of rain and melting water from the entrance, and the door itself is to inspire.

Semi-breastned cellar: 1 - overlapping from boards, porch or railway plates; 2 - heat hydrogen insulation (straw + clay); 3 - clay; 4 - Earth Owl; 5 - rubberoid; 6 - walls (timber, brick, concrete); 7 - bitumen mastic + ruberoid (tol); 8 - Castle - Fattle Clay

Outflowed cellar

This design saves the area of \u200b\u200bthe site, but is based only in the case of low groundwater running or with a serious waterproofing and drainage system. Some buildings are simply covered with a heat-insulated lid on the hinges, but if the area of \u200b\u200bthe celler is quite large, it is better to build a cluster over it - a wooden house with a hatch in the floor, which is a heat-insulator for an underground structure and can serve as a hosbler with a sufficient ceiling height.

Underground cellar with a truster-hozblok: 1 - insulation; 2 - lime layer; 3 - bituminous waterproofing; 4 - Walls

Cruel with a mortal-low row: 1 - roof; 2 - drainage; 3 - shelves; 4 - storage for vegetables; 5 - Galled Paul

Brick cellar: 1 - crushed stone; 2 - sand; 3 - Floor film; 4 - concrete; 5 - lateral film; 6 - sandy soil; 7 - brick wall; bottom cover; 9 - clay. For descent and lifting, the staircase is mounted, and above the neck - the folding cover coated with iron

Video. Underground cellar at high groundwater

Materials for building cellar

The cellar can be made from various materials that are easier to acquire or, based on your personal preferences. For clay soils, small cellars are even suitable for small bumps simply in the thickness of the soil, without reinforcing the floor and walls.

Several inspirational ideas based on materials, the design of the entrance and the gravestone in the photo volume below.

Entrance to the stone cellar, the fortress in Vyborg

Concrete cellar decorated with large boulders

Sandstone cellar

Original input

Cellar of stone

Ambitious entrance to the cellar

Brick wine cellar.

Beautiful, original, difficult

Tree and straw. Museum Pirogovo (Kiev)

Trusian, covered by straw. Country style

Wooden cellar, built with relief

Burub construction

Cellar of bottles

Ventilation device in the cellar

The most common ventilation system in the basement is a natural, based on the difference in air temperature above the floor and under the ceiling and equipped with two pipes. One of them works as a supply channel, the other removes the air out of the room. Outdoor, the outlet holes of the pipes must be protected from precipitation and garbage. If you set a small damper in them, you can adjust the degree of thrust. IN winter The inlet hole of the cellar is often closed.

For the organization of ventilation it is convenient to take pipes big diameter - Steel or plastic, sewer-coated varnish to protect from ultraviolet. Channel output is best done vertically up or at an angle of no more than 45 ° to the side. With a larger bias, ventilation becomes less efficient. It is also important to correctly set the pipes. Below we want you to show an example of an erroneous and proper installation.

Incorrect installation of ventilation pipes

Proper installation of ventilation pipes (diagonal, level)

Strengthen ventilation and make it year-round, simply by typing the fan in the exhaust pipe.

As a rule, natural, equipped ventilation in the cellar is enough. If the room is built, with strict moisture and temperature requirements, such as a cellar for the production of cheese or wine storage, you can arrange forced ventilation.

It is important to remember about the electrical conductivity of a wet earth, laying the electric pipe into insulating tubes and use the fan that is operating from voltage 12-14 V. The same requirements are presented in the organization of lighting in the basement, plus the use of special ceiling.

Stages of the construction of the cellar with their own hands

Consider the main stages of the construction of the cellab of slag blocks and concrete.

Construction of a semi-breed cellar begins with earthworks. They can be performed manually, but if the volume of the soil is removed is significant, it is better to hire an exercise technique.

On the perimeter, the cutlery rolls the trench for the device of the tape base under the wall. Cooking the foundation: knit the reinforcement frame and pour concrete. Sand and gravel fall asleep to the place of the future, and from above - a layer of oily clay. After the concrete in the tape gains strength (week with dry weather), begin to build the walls and lay the ventilation tube with a height of the cluster. The thickness of the masonry when the overlap is only on the walls - a full brick, when the walls are supported on the walls and the subtlety ground - can be in Pollipich. Between the masonry and walls of the pit, immediately need to pour and compact the clay extracted earlier from the pit.

If there is the possibility of check-in crane to the site, the easiest of the overlap is made from the finished reinforced concrete plates. You can make this overlap at the place. For this wall, the walls are covered with rubberoid, and on top of the beams (100x150). On the beams are placed on the boards, leaving square lase for the entrance, and over the tight polyethylene, the edges of which go beyond the construction of up to 0.5 m.

A reinforcement lattice is placed on the film, install the ventilation pipe and expose the restrictive formwork around the hatch. The solution is poured with a thickness of at least 5 cm.

After soaring the concrete on the hatch, the cover is mounted, and above the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe cellar or only over the hatch double roofusing materials to your liking. If the roof is only over the hatch, the rest of the area falls asleep with soil - make an embankment. The front wall decorate, install the door, plant plants or put the rod.

You can use a balcony space in different ways: for storing anything, such as vegetables and blanks for the winter, as a greenhouse or winter Garden, as a separate warm room, which can be used as a working office or recreation area. In any case, to fulfill its ideas, it will take the insulation of the balcony from the inside. Even if you are not going to make an absolutely warm room from the balcony, and want to store winter blanks on it so that the temperature does not fall below zero on the balcony, it is necessary to warm it.

By the way, there are two concepts in everyday life: "Balcony" and "Loggia", which are fundamentally different from each other.

Balcony It is a completely remote construction that is located outside the building. The floor is a stove, protruding from the building. Space is fenced with a light parapet from metal design. Parapet can be causing some simple material: plywood or plastic panels.

Loggia It is a built-in room, one side of which is open and can be fenced with a metal or concrete / brick parapet. From two, and more often three sides - walls, adjacent or with rooms of the apartment, or with neighbors.

Of course, the loggia is more suitable for the equipment of a separate room than a balcony for several reasons. First, it is always larger in size. Secondly, the loggia is part of the building, which means that its gender is able to withstand heavy loads. Thirdly, two or three walls of the loggia are leading in warm rooms, which significantly reduces insulation costs.

Most often, the balcony and the loggia is called in a word "balcony". We will also use this concept, but with reservations if the design differences in these objects will require clarifications.

Balcony insulation scheme

It is better to start with glazing, and to use a minimum of two-chamber double-glazed windows. And if you live in the region, where the temperature in the winter falls below - 40 ° C, then it is worth thinking over three-chamber.

Important! If you have old wooden windows With single glass, and you think: "Now I'll win here, there will warm it, and everything will be fine," you will have to upset you. Semi-dimensions are not separated. Such insulation will not change the situation, the temperature on the balcony will not rise. Money spent on insulation will blow into the pipe, or rather - through the windows, the very wooden.

The casing and insulation of the balcony must create the effect of the "thermos". To do this, you must first install high-quality glazing through which it would not be lost heat, and then insulate the walls, ceiling, parapet and floor balcony.

The insulation technology of the balcony can be divided into such steps:

Close up all the gaps that remained after glazing. For this purpose you can use mounting foam Or other sealants. If the slots are large, pre-closed them with rebuilding materials, for example, pieces of foam or plywood. We throw, we wait until the foam dries, and cut the surplus.
Waterproofing all internal balcony surfaces. You can use various materials. Filling material Ruberoid is stacked by braces, glued to the base, and the joints are glued with gas burner. Liquid penetrating, such as penetron, are applied on concrete surfaces roller or tassel. As an alternative, coating, painting materials, polyurethane mastic and others are suitable.
Fresh material for insulation balcony. About what materials can be used and how they are attached, we will tell a little later.

We put parosolation. You can use the usual foamed polyethylene. But the most successful option will be the material foam, foil on one side. It is necessary to mount it. It is necessary only to join it (the bracket is impossible!), Knock the joints aluminum scotch. We have a metallized side necessarily inside the room, so heat that comes out of heated rooms will be repelled back.
We carry out the walls of the walls and the ceiling of the balcony.
We make the floor (wooden on lags, concrete or bulk).

The scheme of the insulation of the balcony is unified. So if you want it to get high quality, do all the steps and do not save on trifles, so that you will not regret.

Important! Parosolation is necessarily placed on the side of the room. Because its task is to prevent the penetration of household pair from the room in the insulation. Playing whether vaporizolation from the street, each decides itself, but the waterproofing layer is obligatory.

Methods of insulation balcony

Depending on exactly how you want to use a balcony in the end, it can be insulated in various ways.

If you have a loggia that you plan to use for storage of vegetables and drying linen, then it should be insulated only in one layer, and that is only parapet.

If you have a balcony that are going to turn into a separate room, then it is necessary to warm up in two layers with various materials, paying maximum attention to all surfaces - walls, parapet, floor and ceiling.

If you plan to attach the loggia to the room, it follows it from the parapet - in two layers, and walls, gender and ceiling - in one layer.

Repair and insulation of balconies are performed by various materials according to the technologies characteristic. Thermal insulation materials (insulation) have different thermal conductivity coefficients, structure and shape. Next, we will consider only a few of them and clarify some nuances of their use and fastening.

Pasteleks Called material from a group of extruded polystyrene foam. It has a thermal conductivity of 0.030 W / (M ° C), does not absorb moisture, has high compression strength and bending. Penoplex is available in plates of different sizes with a thickness of 20 mm to 100 mm. The plates can be smooth, and may have recesses and protrusions that perform the function of the Schip system and "groove", which greatly facilitates their laying and fastening.

In regions with a harsh climate, it is necessary to use a polyplex thickness from 50 to 70 mm. If the temperature in your region is rarely lowered below - 25 ° С, there will be a plate with 40 mm thick.

The method of fastening the insulation Penoplex is chosen given what will happen finish finish.

If you plan to wash a balcony with plastic, sheets of drywall or other material, then the plates are enough to fasten with the help of special plastic dowelsreminiscent of mushroom.

The plastic feet of dowels have a thickness of 8 - 10 mm, the lattice hats act as a fastener. We recommend using a dowel with a length of 80 - 100 mm. In the case when the finishing coating is plaster, the plates should be consolidated with a combination method. First glue to the surface, then additionally secure "mushrooms".

The technology of insulation of the penplex package is as follows:

On a pre-waterproof surface, fastening the plate of the fastener.
Be sure to collect them on or with the help of the Schip and PAZ system.
Fix mushroom dowels, 5 - 7 pieces per plate.

Important! In no case should not perform a wooden crate on the wall, in the space of which then insert the plates of the inferno. In this case, the tree will perform the "cold bridge" and quickly produce heat out of the room. If you plan to install plasterboard sheets on top of the insulation, then secure the penplex according to the technology described above, then place vaporizolation and already on top - type the crate. The empty space between the insulation and the finish sheets will be additional thermal insulation.

To date, Penoplex is considered the most popular and successful solution for the insulation of the balcony. This is due to its strength characteristics. If the strength is not so important, can be used for insulation foam.

Hearth balcony expanded polystyrene (foam)

Polyfoam is less durable than extruded polystyrene foam, but it has less thermal conductivity due to large air bubbles. Available in plates with a thickness of 5 cm to 15 cm. For the insulation of the balcony there will be enough 5 - 10 cm plates.

Polyfoam is hygroscopic and does not lose its properties under the influence of moisture.

Technology of insulation expanded polystyrenery looks like this:

The waterproof surface of the balcony is covered with primer deep penetration.
After drying the primer, we glue the foam plates to the surface with a special glue.
In addition to the adhesive connection, fasten the plates using the same "mushrooms" as the penplex.
On top of the foam, you can fix vapor barrier, but you can do without it.
Next, on the surface, we fix the fiberglass reinforcing mesh with a solution with adhesive properties.

On top of the grid, you can apply plaster, putty, paint, or perform another finish.

Wooden lining is used to insulate balconies only as the material of the second layer of insulation. The exception is only one option: if the loggia is insulated, the walls are adjacent to heated rooms. In this case, the walls, the floor and the ceiling are triggered by clapboard, which in this case acts as a heater, and as an finishing finish. Parapet requires more thorough insulation - at the beginning of the foam, only then - the clapboard.

TECHNOLOGY OF WARNING BALKON WALLING:

On a pre-trunk surface, we have a wooden crate, which will serve as a fastening support for the lining.
In the intervals between the crate we glue foam plastic.
All the cracks blow foam or processed by another sealant.
Paul also warm, laying wooden lags.
Fresh lining to the crate on the walls and lags on the floor.

From above, the lining can be treated with varnish.

Important! Note that such insulation on a silent balcony to arrange impossible - the lining is too heavy. Therefore, be sure to make preliminary calculations for strength.

Specialists recommend abandoning the venture to warm the balcony with mineral Wat, by virtue of its fragile structure and the impossibility of the material tightly, not leaving the gaps. It is advisable to use polystyrene foam or the same penplex, but if you decide exactly and irrevocably, that you want to insulate exactly the Minvat, which will share technology.

Mineral Wool insulation technology:

On the waterproof surface we glue the sheets / web of mineral wool. We use special glue for this, follow the correct consistency: it must be homogeneous and thick.
We work with the canvases carefully to damage them as much as possible - Minvat is not the most durable material.
After applying glue on the canvas we press it to the surface, but not too much, - our task is to glue, and not to sell the material.
We try to stick the cloth as carefully as possible, leaving the minimum gap.
If you can fix the dowels additionally, we use "mushrooms". But only after the glue dries.
Top lay paosoolence.
Mount the reinforcing grid or the crate for further finishes.

On the floor, we install lags, in the space between which are placed by the Minvati web.

All work on the insulation of the balcony from the inside can be performed independently, regardless of which material you choose. No specific skills or knowledge are required, only the tool and skill in handling it. But the glazing of the balcony still should be entrusted to professionals, this is not a lung.

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