Fold the brick oven with your own hands. Laying a brick furnace with their own hands

For giving heating today there are many options: centralized gas, boilers, electrical heaters. But if all this is not realized is possible due to the remoteness of the area from civilization, the stove for the cottage from the brick will become a great solution.

Reliable and durable - she will collect around themselves not one generation of households, providing a house with warmth and filling it with comfort.

Services of a good cook - the pleasure is not cheap. Therefore, if you decide to implement a brick furnace project at the cottage, you will be useful for you to read this article in which we will tell about the principle of work, features and scheme of furnace construction.

A brick furnace can become not only a functional device, but also the main highlight of the interior, if it is correct to beat. Today there are many ways to allow you to bust and decorate a stone stove.

No matter how much time has passed since the appearance of the first furnace structures and, no matter how far the heating technologies have not entered, the stone stove does not lose its relevance. Compared to other types of heating (electricity, gas), it is more economical. At the same time, thick stone walls allow you to keep the warmth of the day after cutting firewood.

In its appointment, the furnaces are divided into the following types:

heating;
cooking;
multifunctional;
combined.

the heat chamber, which is already purchased in the finished form, is either laid out with chamoten brick;
asolnik, where the ashes is going;
chimney.

In the same type of design, a fireplace with an open or closed firebox can be attributed. It is used not only in decorative purposes, but also allows you to effectively warm the room with an area of \u200b\u200b15-20 kV. meters.

Depending on the material selected, wall thickness, masonry scheme, heating furnaces can have different heat recovery.

The most popular view of the furnace is a design with masonry in one brick. This allows you to warm the walls to 60 0 S. According to this scheme, the famous Dutch furnaces are laid out.

In terms of dimensions, the heating furnace can be wide and selected, and may have an elongated rectangular shape. It all depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, the style of the interior and the personal preferences of the owners.

For lining such a furnace, a tile tile, decorative plaster, decorative stone is usually used.

A brick heating furnaces in the form of a trilateral prism look very stylish and originally, but this option will not be implemented, since there is a lot of experience. Much complexity represents trimming bricks and the requirements for holding the angle strictly under 60 0.

There are beautiful and unusual and round ovens, which are laid out according to the scheme of a well-known Russian engineer in a chimney of V.E. Gruum-Grizielo. The furnace works on the principle of free movement of gases. To ensure tightness, the construction is plated from the outside. Such a furnace is able to warm up a large country mansion and will become a real decoration for any home.

The design of the furnace consists of a brick case, inside of which the heat chamber is located, the ash bar, chimney. From above is the metal plate (the oven) can be built).

Heating and cooking furnace already refers to multifunctional structures.

This is a more complex project in implementing, as it consists of:

floor chamber;
chimney;
ash bar;
hob;
oven.

The furnace looks massively and is usually chosen for cottages, where the other version of heating is not provided.

In our country, heating and cookies enjoy the greatest popularity, allowing both the house to protrud, and make a delicious lunch for the whole family.

It can be additionally provided with a drying chamber where you can make blanks for the summer: mushrooms, berries, fruits. In cold and crude weather, in this chamber you can quickly and safely dry clothes, shoes.

By the way, the ovens with drying cameras were first invented in the countries of Northern Scandinavia, where the hunters and fishermen needed to dry clothes, boots in one night.

Many of the schemes of heating and cooking furnaces have additional devices in the form of a comfortable bed, drying for firewood, oven, water tank.

Device furnace for giving and its features

The main elements of any brick oven for the cottage are:

10 Basic Rules for Country Furnace

What brick stove to choose for giving?

The choice of furnace design causes the size and type of room. For large cottages, a massive chimney with thick walls will be required, which will be heated for a long time, but at the same time it will be able to hold the temperature for a long time. Fold such a furnace - the task is not simple. Here you will need some experience and knowledge.

But with a small stove for heating a small cottage, even a beginner can cope, if you follow a clear scheme and not change the masonry rules.

In the first place in popularity of heating and cookies, a Swede is adequately located, which enjoys deserved love and respect among Russian People.

This design is a compact ergonomic shape with a small cooking surface, a three-channel chamber. It is perfect for a small summer cottage, length ranges from 880 to 1250 mm.

For the location of such a furnace, the place between the kitchen and the living room is most often selected. Thus, the oven performs a double function: it serves for cooking and decorate the living room by the fireplace.

On the Internet today you can find hundreds of various laying schemes of the Swedish oven with a cooking surface, so it will not be difficult to implement for the cottage. Many people made additional options in the standard layout scheme, so each design is called by the name of its creator: Buselaev furnace, Kuznetsova, etc. But the principle of operation in them is the same.

Traditionally, a Russian oven can be called a bulky massive design, which adorns not only the cooktop with a brass cabinet, but also a spacious laying.

This furnace is already not only a functional device for cooking, but also a place to relax. It allows you to warm up the room, while holding the heat for a long time, has a beneficial effect on the human body, so the owners of such furnaces are less susceptible to colds.

Building usually has two fireboxes (main and extra). Thanks to the special design of the furnace, the heating is uniformly, from the bottom up. Any solid fuel is suitable for extracts, and especially strict requirements are not presented to the materials for masonry of the Russian furnace.

A special place among small heating and cookies is taken by Malytka V.A. Potapova, created by the famous engineer at the beginning of the 20th century. For her masonry you need only 211 bricks, and oven dimensions are only 630 * 510 mm.

At the same time, such a little girl accommodates a single-industrial plate, a small oven for baking and extract. Such a furnace will become an excellent solution for a small garden house or cottage in one room.

In this article, we suggest you to explore the rules and highlights of masonry with a small heating and cooking furnace.

Stove laying with their own hands

Step 1. Choose a brick and prepare tools

What brick for laying a small country furnace to choose? We will need 2 types of bricks: chamoten (heat-resistant) for the construction of fireboxes and red ceramic (not lower than M-150). Do not save on materials, further operational properties depend on this, safety and efficiency of the furnace.

Chamotte brick can easily learn on yellowish color and porous surface. The composition of this material includes refractory clay and crumb. This material, besides its heat-resistant properties, is even due to the ability to accumulate heat for a long time. Even after the fulfillment of firewood, such a stove is able to give heat for a long time.

The heat-resistant chamotte brick is able to withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 C, so the coil chamber should be laid out exclusively from this material.

The smaller the mass of chamotte brick, the greater the number of pores contains that aluminum oxide creates. Such a brick will be very cool. The cost of this material is almost 5 times the price of red bricks, but no need to save.

But it is not worth uploading the whole furnace from chamotte brick, the outer part of the design is not very hot, and it looks like a red ceramic brick more attractive.

When choosing a brick for a furnace, pay attention to the color and shape.

You can test the material. If you throw a brick from a height of 1.5 meters, and it will not split - take this batch. But the bad, the overexposed brick can split into several parts. Such a brick in the fall makes a deaf sound.

Brick brand for facing the furnace should be M150 or M200. The figure in this case means which weight brick is withstanding 1 cm 3.

Do not take a silicate and hollow brick. It's not even in the ability to withstand a high temperature - they will cope with this. Silicate brick does not spend heat and in a room with such a furnace will not be very comfortable.

For a masonry solution, we will need sand, red chimney clay and water. From its quality and consistency directly depends appearance And the durability of the furnace. For its preparation, the red furnace clay of the medium fluid should be used. In the frozen form, he should not fall, crumble.

The masonry will be produced with a thickness of 0.5 mm, in which case the precious heat will not quickly leave.

Also for construction you can use ready masonry solutionwhich is sold in stores. Usually in its composition there are various impurities that add strength and heat resistance of the design. In this case, it will be enough to dissolve a dry mixture with water and bring it to a homogeneous state with a construction mixer.

By consistency, such a solution should resemble a thick sour cream. If the solution rolls with a trowel, you must add a dry mixture. If he turned out to be too thick, it will be difficult to work with it and perform thin seams. Add some cold water and mix again.

So, for the construction of a furnace, we will need the following materials:

Masonry solution (sand, red chimney clay).
Red ceramic brick M150 - 120 pieces.
Chamotte brick - 40 pieces.
Material for foundation (cement, graphi, sand).
Ruberoid.
Asbestos cord, galvanized wire.
Plywood or boards for creating a formwork.
Reinforcing mesh to arrange the foundation.
Grate.
Metal plate on one mosquito (cast iron).
Solnik and the door of the ash bar (pissed).
Cast iron door for firebox.
The catch of the chimney channel.
Chimney view.
Metal cap on chimney.

Tools that will be needed for the construction of the furnace.

Building level.
Soviet shovel.
Construction marker.
Coromet.
Spatula, rule.
Master OK.
Measuring tape (roulette).
Construction plumb.

Important! When laying a furnace, much depends on the quality of clay. Ideally use the red river clay of medium fat, which was outdoors at least 2 years. Do exactly so much solution as you can master for "1 okay". The solution quickly becomes thick, and it becomes hard to work with it.

Step 2. Ready Brick for Masonry Furnace

Before embarking on the masonry of the furnace, it is necessary to decompose the entire brick in advance and prepare it according to the co-order scheme.

This stage includes brick division on ½ or ¼ parts, shy at the corners.

Carefully learn the scheme and see what parts of the bricks will be needed for each row.

If necessary, you can then numbered the brick so that later it was easy to navigate, in which row to insert it.

How to split a brick? Before you "discard" the necessary part of the brick, according to the scheme, you first need to perform a groove. This can be performed using a hacksaw or a file.

To make ½ bricks - spend 1 groove.

For 1/6 or 1/8 brick, perform a furrow from all sides of the brick.

Step 3. Choosing a place for the furnace

This is a very important stage in the furnace bookmark, which is advisable to produce even at the construction stage of the house.

But there are cases when the decision on the furnace laying arises from household owners already during the operation of the cottage. In this case, determine the place where the chimney is easier to withdraw.

It is also important to estimate the distance between the furnace and windows and doors. After all, the cold air strangles from the door can prevent the natural circulation of heat in the house, reducing the efficiency of the stove.

In addition, the oven should not interfere with the free move around the room. It should become one whole with space without creating inconvenience. In many ways, the placement of the furnace depends on the destination.

The heating and cooking model is best spaced in the kitchen, and the furnace-fireplace will look beautiful in the living room.

The distance to the nearest wall should be at least 25 cm.
The chimney should not pass through the beams.
The floor and the wall will have to be faced with fire-resistant material.
The fireplace is better spaced near the inner wall of the house. To increase the efficiency, it makes sense to install the oven in the space between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, one furnace will dump two rooms at once.

An excellent place to accommodate the furnace is the angle of the room, only if the front door is not located opposite the corner, from which the cold air will be blown in the flame.

Step 4. Construction of the foundation

To build a brick oven, it is necessary to perform a separate foundation. If it is laid on one cycle with the construction of the house - to perform it is not a difficult task.

If you made a decision on masonry furnaces after the completion of general construction, then it will be necessary to shoot a part of the first floor and plunge into the soil.

Why is it so important to perform a separate foundation? Brick oven, whatever size it, has a lot of weight, which will create a large pressure on the foundation. When shrinking, the house will see. This in no way should affect the form and design of the furnace.

That is, the overall foundation of the house should not pull the stove behind them, as this can lead to a disruption of its sealing and deterioration of technical properties.

Attention! Before performing masonry bricks per solution, spread all the brick "on dry". First, it will allow you to see if you have a material. And secondly, you can still see the difficult moments on which special attention will have to pay.

Step 5. Masonry Furnace

Attention! Before masonry oven, lower bricks in a basin with cold water so that they absorb moisture. So they will not pull water from the masonry solution.

Fill this gap with sand. All under the furnace will almost be taken by grinding, which will ensure good and simple furnace care, as well as the complete root of firewood.

Overlapping the door to the door pissed.

Installation of the furnace door

We establish a flue door, after waking it with an asbestos cord. To make it easier to mount it, put the door onto the thick wire and on both sides, bring bricks. Then these bricks will need to be removed.

6th row. Closes the flue door.

Here, we begin to form a flue channel pipe, creating overlaps for two vertical channels.

Layout the base of the furnace, which is performed from chamotte brick.

With 7-9 row lay out the furnace chamotted brick according to the scheme.

In this row, two bricks overlapping the grate should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

10 row - overlapping the oven. Create from brick a partition, lifting it by 2 cm. On the oven, to the level of the partition, we apply a clay-sandy solution. Prepare a place to install the hob.

It is necessary to perform excavations in bricks for reliable fixation with the stove and create heat niches to expand the metal. Immediately attach the slab to dry and numb the bricks - so it will be easy for you to put the brick on the solution and not make a mistake with the correct notches under the stove.

We pave an asbestos strip on the brick (on the expansion of the metal).

Step 6. The withdrawal of the chimney through the roof

This is a responsible step that should ensure the full safety of the furnace operation.

Guide Snipback standards when the brick tube is derived through the roof. According to these standards, the gap between the roof and chimney should be at least 13-25 cm.

Around the passage of the pipe through the roof, it is necessary to carry out insulation with thermal insulation materials. This will provide reliable protection From blew cold air and ensure reliable fire safety.

If the furnace is performed in a residential building with finished roofIt will be necessary to take part of the roof. After the wire of the pipe, it will be necessary to fully ensure the integrity of the roof in this place, so that during the rain or snow, the moisture does not get inside.

For waterproofing the stone pipe, a special plate is used, which resembles a kind of pedestal around the chimney. The slate dosper and the metal plate is performed using the sealant.

If you want to simplify the task, then the chimney will not be difficult to perform with steel pipes Sandwich type. They have a stylish look and are easily going. In addition, they have much less scales than brick and will not create such pressure on the foundation.

Determining the necessary height of the chimney, guide not only the height of the roof, but also the height of the skate.

From properly calculated parameters, the effectiveness of the heating of the room and the presence of thrust depends directly.

The edge of the pipe should perform over the "skate" of the roof at least 0.5 meters, otherwise the swirls, which are formed around the roof, may interfere with good thrust, and they will constantly blend cold air into the chimney.

Complete the construction of the chimney - metal grille. It will prevent garbage from entering the chimney.

Top we wear a metal cap, which reliably protects the pipe from precipitation.

Step 7. Facing the oven

There are many ways how beautiful to bust the oven for the cottage.

Clinker tiles, tile tile, decorative plaster, can be played as a decorative material. fake diamond etc.

And you can simply leave the oven in its original form, especially if you bought a high-quality beautiful brick.

Consider that any facing material reduces the heat return. Therefore, if you do not want to lose thermal properties, you can cover the furnace with a thin layer of decorative plaster.

Step 8. Mainstock oven

After a complete cladding of the oven, you need to make a technological break for 10-14 days, until the design is completely sucked. Leave the door to the open latch.

When you make sure the masonry solution is completely drying, you can pro-lead the first test extrovers of the furnace. No need to hurry and immediately, after masonry, getting firewood.

Premature extracts of a crude furnace can lead to her cracking. In the first time, use ¼ part of the firewood, lay small lamps. This will allow good dry design from the inside. Do not exceed the maximum temperature of 60-65 degrees in the first week of operation.

Do not use garbage to extract.
The firebox door must be closed when trash.
War down the furnace gradually, do not immediately give a strong heat.
Use high-quality, well-dried firewood.

For ease of operation, a cottage stove can be made with your own hands stylish, which will become a decorative and functional element in everyday life.

As you can see, if you follow a clear scheme of the coach - it is not so difficult to fold a beautiful and a good dacha stove.

Video: Laying brick furnace "On dry"

Below we give a detailed master class on masonry a brick furnace for giving.

Video. Master class on masonry oven for giving

Ovens Heating as a method of heating private home ownership is still popular. Since it is quite difficult to find a professional binder, many country property owners are forced to develop the construction of brick stoves with their own hands.

To raise the heating unit in accordance with all the rules and regulations, homeowners will need to be stocking appropriate knowledge and skills, prepare the tools and acquire construction Materials For a significant amount.

Types of stoves

A brick stove with your own hands for the house can be:

russian;
swedish;
dutch.

Also distinguished furnaces:

baths;
garden;
heating;
heating and cooking;
fireplaces.

Russian oven.

Among the liveshiks, it is considered the most multifunctional construct of bricks. It is equipped with a place to relax, called the Lena. Under it, they have a cooking chamber - a firebox or a fool, under which he was pushed. It should provide continuous burning solid fuel. Such brick furnaces for home with their own hands also have a niche for kitchen accessories and storage of cooked food hot.

Standard dimensions of this type of furnace units: in a height of 2 meters, in length is 2.5 meters and a width of 1.5 meters. Due to the impressive sizes, the Russian oven is able to heat the living space, which exceeds 40 "squares". But it also has a big drawback - there is a lot of solid fuel for its functioning.

Swedish stove

Its sizes are more compact compared to the Russian oven. The height of the Swedish structure of the brick is about 2 meters, and the length and width is not more than a meter. This small brick oven is designed:

for heating rooms;
for cooking food.

A cast-iron plate on 2 burners is placed on the furnace of the Swedish unit, and the overall cabinet is located on the side. In the construction of the stove in the kitchen, we build a stove, and the rest of it is equipped in another room.

A serious disadvantage of the design is a high degree of fire danger. To prevent fire, the Swedt stove is supplied with dampers.

Dutch oven

This type of furnace aggregates must be owned by Russian cookies, they were them invented. The "Holland" is intended for heat supply of premises. The stove is very compact and has a high degree of heat transfer. To completely warm it with its help, the cold room will be required 10 hours.

During the off-season, the Dutch stove with their hands from the brick is capable of holding heat during the day. Its structural device provides high heat transfer due to a winding chimney. In addition, the furnace has a spacious fuel.

"Dutch" is erected only with the use of chimney brick, which accumulates heat quickly, and gives gradually. This building material for building stoves is very expensive.

How to put the furnace and what is needed for this

Having considered the projects of furnaces and making a choice, you can proceed to the next step. In addition to the design design, the chimney design must comply with fire safety requirements, so the stage of preparation for its construction, which implies:

Development detailed scheme Masonry oven with a slab or without it.
Determination of the construction site.
Choosing materials.
Selection of tools.
Drawing up estimates for construction costs.

In addition to the above events, it is necessary to determine the number of utility workers, and perhaps they are not needed.

From how correctly the project of the house with furnace heating is developed, the final result of construction depends. Now you can not develop schemes - furnace drawings with their own hands, but to purchase ready-made documentation. When choosing such a project, you must make sure that the numbers specified in it also will not prevent the presence of a phased detailed description construction.

When the place of placement of the furnace is chosen, first of all, pay attention to the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and the design of the furnace. Since the process is how to put a brick oven in the country or in the house has many nuances, experienced cooks advise novice crafts to build reduced layouts of future aggregates.

Thanks to this, you can prepare for the upcoming laying and minimize errors and miscalculations. When complex furnace structures are selected - masonry furnaces with their own hands for inexpressible masters, it may be unbearable. In this case, you should seek help to professionals.

Selection and purchase of building materials

Regardless of which type of furnace to be undertaken, the same materials are used - these are bricks, clay, sand. The focus must be given to the selection of bricks.

There are 4 varieties of bricks for the construction of furnace units:

manual molding;
ceramic;
refractory;
silicate.

For facing the unit uses ceramic products. It is desirable to acquire a M-250 or M-500 brick, which is more expensive, but more uniform, the cheaper products. It is able to withstand multiple heating cycles - cooling. Expensive brick has another advantage - excellent molding properties and decorative qualities.

Sand, when it is erected by his hands a brick stove for giving or private household, you need to take clean, without garbage and different impurities and therefore it needs to be sifted through a sieve.

Clay for furnace units is normal, skinny or fat. From what kind of variety is chosen, the proportions of the preparation of the solution and the technology of masonry of bricks are dependent. People are preferred to use clay having normal fat.

Preparation of instruments

To make your own hands oven in the country or in a residential building, you will need different tools: construction, measuring and auxiliary.

From construction tools you need:

for trimming bricks - Bulgarian;
for sifting sand - metal sieve with a cell no more than 2 millimeters;
soviet shovel;
to compact the solution - extending;
for masonry mix - Combined Kerma;
perforator plus nozzle-mixer to it;
for cutting bricks - Molotok-Kirk.

Also need to prepare measuring instruments:

roulette at least 5 meters long;
to control the verticality - plumb;
wooden chimney length about meters;
to check the mechanism of laying - the rule (between it and the wall can not be slots);
construction and flexible levels.

Support tools include buckets, capacity, etc.

Foundation for a brick oven

When we put the furnace with your own hands, first of all provide the distance between the chimney pipe and the roof overlapping, equal to at least 15 centimeters. Then you can proceed to the markup of the foundation, which must exceed the parameters of the furnace structure in all directions by 15 centimeters.

It is better to form it with the arrangement of a general-friendly basis. To serve the oven for a long time, its foundation should not be associated with the basis of home ownership. The fact is that their natural shrinkage is different due to different degrees of loads.

First, the boothes are poured with concrete, and then the foundation for the furnace is erected from bricks. Pre-put a wooden formwork.

When the base is ready, its upper level should be lower than the floor surface for 19 centimeters. The foundation is not built for the fireplace, but carry out the load on the floor of the upper floors. The base will certainly be hydroizing, using rubberoid or only.

Laying brick furnace for home

First of all, you need to study the stove drawings with your hands from the brick. Then the solution is prepared and put the first row with the help of a spatula and a trowel. Often novice homework are confident that the solution should not be "sorry." In fact, on the contrary - the layer thinner, the stronger the brickwork will be.

Work is performed as follows:

One hand hold brick on weight.
Applying light blows, make a mark of the spot.
Holding a brick on weight, perform its sharp and accurate slaughter on the parts according to the stamps.
When you take your hands the furnace on firewood for summer cottages or at home, the first row must be postponed. First, the outer row of bricks are placed, then the middle, and the seams are thoroughly filled with a solution, not allowing the formation of voids.
The initial rows are built from the whole material, while the vertical seams should not match. But then the bricks need to break. They are placed chopped side inside the array of construction. This moment is important in the construction of chimney channels and the fuel. The fact is that the chips will be the place where the soot accumulates, littering chimney.

Features of the construction of Arches and Arches do it yourself

When archings and vaults are built, they also use the drawings of a brick furnace with their own hands for giving or other building. Bricks are laid according to the technology of gradual intake, and a thickness of at least two rows.

The thickness of this overlap cannot be less than 2 rows. For the hole of the furnace use the "lock" display or laying by the "jumper" method - bricks are installed on a metal corner vertically. Metal product can be changed on a wooden frame.

For the pipe structure, a silicate brick is used, capable of withstanding temperature differences and atmospheric precipitation. It is resistant to the acidic medium formed by contacting smoke and water vapor. It is important that in the chimney there is no irregularities and chips. When the furnace design is ready, after 2 - 3 weeks spend the control furnace.

Large and small furnaces with their own brick hands in private homes are popular. But the main thing is to build the unit correctly so that he serves dozens of years.

Today, numerous manufacturers of solid fuel heating equipment offer us a wide range of metal furnaces and boilers, which from year to year is replenished with new and new models. But despite all their advantages, the owners of negassed houses continue to be a common brick oven - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What caused truly nationwide love for this unit? Our article will not only give an answer to this question, but also introduces the reader with various species The furnaces and technology of the construction of a brick type do it yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick furnace in the house

So, let's try to understand why the old heating device often turns out to be more preferable than its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

The housing of the furnace is an excellent heat accumulator: thanks to this property, the brick furnace has to be treated much less often than the usual steel and even cast-iron. Some varieties keep heat up to 24 hours, while in the furnace of the metal furnace firewood need to toss every 4-6 hours.
The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick oven more economical and less harmful to ecology than its metal "substitutes". The fuel in it burns in optimal mode - with the greatest heat transfer and the almost complete decay of organic water molecules and carbon dioxide. Forming excess heat is absorbed by brick masonry and then gradually transmitted by the room.
The outer surface of the furnace is not heated to a high temperature.

Due to this, the thermal radiation generated by this aggregate is softer than hot steel stoves. In addition, in contact with the hot metal, the dust contained in the air is burning, highlighting harmful volatile substances (you can learn about this characteristic unpleasant odor). Of course, it is impossible to choose them, but they definitely harm their health.

The brick oven (it does not apply to stone) when heated it highlights steam, and when cooled, it absorbs again. This process is called the breath of the furnace. Thanks to him, relative humidity Heated air always remains at a comfortable level - in the range of 40-60%. When working any other heating device, not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

The steel furnace excess warmth is nowhere to detect it, so it is necessary either often soak, putting small portions of fuel, or operated in mode. In the latter case, the work time on one fuel is increased, but it burns with incomplete heat transfer and large quantity carbon monoxide and other harmful substances for ecology - t. n. Heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to make sure that the brick oven gives a noticeable dark smoke only during the extracts, while from the chimney of the steel furnace, in which the fuel is tweaking, black smoke is constantly. This shortage is deprived of metal solid fuel heaters. long burning (full, and not. gas generator furnaces, only imitating gas generation). But they are quite expensive, have a complex design and need power supply, without which the brick oven costs.

What can be opposed to all of the above? The cooled room with a brick stove warms up long enough. Therefore, homeowners are still recommended to get an additional steel convector, which warms the air in the forced mode while the furnace is to the steps.

It should also be considered that the brick oven is a rather massive structure that should be built with the house. And do it ideally an experienced masterwhich still needs to be found.

Application of brick stoves

The scope of application of furnaces by their main functions - heating and cooking is not limited. Here are some more tasks to solve such an aggregate:

Smoking meat and fish.
Spinding scrap metal (stove-Vagranka).
Hardening and cementing of metal parts (muffle furnaces).
Ceramic firing.
Heating blanks in a blacksmith workshop.
Maintain the desired temperature and humidity regime in the bath.

But in the houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms, it is not recommended to build a brick furnace: here she will have to breathe with putrefactive evaporations, which will lead to quick damage.

Varieties of facilities

The above scheme B. different furnaces Can be modified. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and Cap.

Holland

This scheme received the name channel sequential. Such a furnace is very easy to manufacture and its design can be easily adjusted for any room, but the maximum efficiency for it is only 40%.

Swedish aggregate

Very good version of the heating and cooking furnace.

A very successful version of the heating and cooking furnace. The scheme is called chamber. The camera, the walls of which are washed with hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The channel convector is located behind the furnace and occupies the entire space from the floor to the ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

Efficiency at 60%;
in the overturn, you can install a heat exchanger for heating water, which will be stored in cumulative tank on the overlapping furnace;
in the convector, the gases come relatively cold (they are expelled in the chamber part), so it is possible to use construction bricks for its construction and ordinary cement-sandy solution;
convector with such a form heats the room for the entire height as possible evenly;
near the Swedish furnace you can quickly warm and dry if you open the door of the oven.

Furnaces of this type are complex in manufacturing, require very high-quality materials and need foundation.

Cap oven

Scheme with self-regulation: The flue gases go into the chimney only after complete exercise under the cap.

Such a mechanism provides an efficiency of more than 70%, but in the manufacture of this furnace is quite complex (high loads occur in the design). Yes, it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove-Lenka

The scheme of the Russian oven, like the English fireplace, is called flowing. The convector in it is not provided.

The scheme of the Russian oven, like the English fireplace, is called flowing. The convector in it is not provided. The owner of the Russian oven wins in the following:

CPD reaches 80%;
the construction has an interesting appearance;
become available to prepare such dishes of our national Kitchenwho otherwise do not cook in the Russian oven.

A Russian oven can be folded independently, if you clearly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can spoil the design.

General device furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complex.

In the brick array there is a camera with a door, in which fuel combines - the furnace (in the figure - position 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate grid (pos. 7), which places fuel and through which air flows into the furnace. Under grip, there is another chamber called as a roller or confused, which is also closed by the door (pos. 4 and 6). Through this door, the air outside the furnace falls into the oven and through it, the ash bar is removed from the roller.

Through the hole at the rear wall, the flue gases fall into Heilo (pos. 11) - the sloping canal directed towards the front wall. Hailo ends with a narrowing - nozzle. Next, a P-shaped channel is called a gas convector (pos. 16).

The walls of the gas convector are heated by air moving along the special channel inside the furnace. This channel is called an air convector (pos. 14). At its exit, the door is installed (pos. 18), which is closed in the summer.

The chimney has the following items:

cleaning door (pos. 12): Through it is carried out cleaning the chimney channel;
the catch for adjusting the combustion mode (pos. 15);
bind (pos. 17): Also is a valve, by means of which after the extracts, when the whole carbon monoxide Already disappeared, overlap the chimney in order to hold heat.

Heat insulation surrounding chimney in the intersection zone attic overlap And the roof is called cutting (pos. 23). In the area of \u200b\u200bcrossing the overlap of the chimney wall are made thicker. Such a broader is called a flipper (pos. 21), it is also considered to be cut.

After crossing the roof, the smoke tube has another broadening - the otter (pos. 24). It does not allow rain moisture to penetrate the gap between the roof and chimney.

Other positions:

1 and 2 - foundation with heat and waterproofing;
3 - legs or chances: For a furnace with such elements, less bricks need, besides, it has an additional heating surface;
5 - the beginning of a special air canal (drying), by means of which is achieved uniform heated room height;
10 - flue arch;
13 - the airborne convector, called a flow or pass;
20 - overlapping oven;
22 - attic overlap.

Preparation for the construction

Required materials, selection

When erecting the furnace, the following varieties of bricks are used:

Building ceramic brick (red). They laid out the lowest rows - the so-called subtopic part (the scheme indicates the oblique hatching), as well as the part of the chimney, in which the temperatures are below 80 degrees.
Chimney ceramic brick. Also red, but compared to construction has a higher quality (brand - M150) and withstands more high temperatures - up to 800 degrees. It is possible to distinguish them in size: the dimensions of the furnace - 230x114x40 (65) mm, while the construction is 250x125x65 mm. The furnace brick lay out the heat (fiber) part of the furnace, in the diagram it is indicated by hatching into the cell.
Chamotte brick. This material of the furnace is placed from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but this is not limited to its merits. Chamotal brick combines high heat capacity (is a very "roomy" heat accumulator) and as high thermal conductivity.

Note! Facial brick In this case, it is impossible to use.

Because of the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the heat part alone alternating bricks with one chamoten brick - the furnace will heat up too much and very quickly cool due to intensive thermal radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must necessarily be lined with chick brick at least in the Pollipich.

Sizes of chamotte brick are the same as the furnace. Often its quality is recommended to determine the depth of color, but this method is valid only for those products, clay for which was mined in one place. If we compare chamotte clay from different deposits, then the color does not always give an objective characteristic: dark material may well give up as light yellow.

A more reliable quality indicator is the absence of pores and extraneous particles distinguishable, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the figure, a high-quality sample - left). When climbing with a metal object, a high-quality chamotte brick must publish a ringing and clear sound, and when dropping from some height it splits into large pieces. Low-quality attack will be represented by deaf sounds, and when the fall will turn into a plurality of small fragments.

Also during the construction of the furnace apply the following solutions:

Cement-sandy: those parts of the furnace, which consist of conventional building bricks, are put on a conventional cement-sand solution.
Cement-sand high quality: This solution consisting of mountain sand and portland cement M400 and above are used if an irregular furnace furnace is supposed. The fact is that the referred clay solution with insufficient warm-up can appreciate moisture and deoxine again. That is why in areas with a temperature below 200-250 degrees (on the scheme - oblique hatching hatching) instead of the clay, a high-quality cement-sandy solution based on mountain sand is used. We emphasize that this way should only be treated if the oven during the cold weather will often stand up.
Clay solution. Mountain sand is also needed for this solution. For him, the absence of organic residues is characteristic, due to which the seams would quickly paint. But now buying dear mountain sand optional: excellent quality solutions are based on sand made of ground ceramic or chamotte brick.
High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so its amount in solution is eager to minimize.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, do this:

clay is soaked for a day, then mix it with water until it becomes similar to plasticine or thick dough;
selecting clay on portions, prepare 5 solution options: with the addition of 10% of sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
after a 4-hour drying, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder with a length of 30 cm and a diameter of 10-15 mm. Each cylinder must be wrapped around a 50 mm diameter.

We analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the surface layer itself is suitable for any tasks; With a crack depth of 1-2 mm, the solution is considered suitable for masonry with a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; With deeper cracks, the solution is considered unsuitable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry, which includes:

trowel;
hammer-korcha;
cutting for seams;
the shovel for the solution.

The liver must have a rake-order. It has a cross section of 5x5 cm, the staples for fastening in the seams and marks corresponding to the position of individual rows. By installing 4 coals in the corners, it will be easy to ensure the vertical of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heating device

The method of calculating the furnace is extremely complex and requires greater experience, but there is a simplified version proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the house is well insulated outside the house. For 1 m 2 of the surface area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace, the following heat transfer values \u200b\u200bare accepted:

under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
with severe frosts when the furnace is very intense (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, the furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in terms of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface of 17.5 m 2, will produce 8.5 kW in normal mode, and in intensive - 13.3 kW heat. This productivity will be enough for the house of 80-100 m 2.

Extremely complicated and the calculation of the furnace, but today it is not necessary. Than to design and make homemade firebox, it is better to purchase it in the store ready: it is already calculated for all the rules and will cost cheaper.

When choosing a firebox, you need to consider the following:

The sizes and the location of the fastener should correspond to the si-part of the used brick.
For a furnace, which is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded firebox from sheet steel; For permanent use, you need to buy only a litter cast-iron furnace.
The depth of the ash mine (the lower escape of the furnace) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber, if most of the time the oven will be treated with coal or peat, and one fifth - if the main fuel or pellets are the main.

The cross-section of chimneys corresponding to the standard requirements (direct vertical stroke, the height of the headband over the grate of a grate - from 4 to 12 m), is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNIVA, depending on the power of the furnace:

with heat transfer to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200kh200 mm;
from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200kh270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the furnace, so sometimes there may be a mismatch of the accepted cross section of the chimney and the productivity of the unit - the furnace begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25-0.5 m.

To determine the number of bricks, empirical formulas were developed, but they give an error to 15%. The only way to perform an accurate calculation is manually - just to recalculate bricks in orders, which will take only about an hour. More modern option - Model the oven in one of the computer programs intended for this. The system itself will specify the specification in which the exact amount of the whole bricks will be indicated, as well as cutting, shaped, etc.

Selection of Places, Schemes

The method of installation of the furnace depends on the size of the house and location in it different rooms. Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a furnace will be qualitatively measured all the construction, and in the summer, with an open window, it can be quite comfortable to prepare.

In a big house with permanent accommodation The furnace can be placed like this:

In this embodiment, the furnace-fireplace installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased stuffing of cast iron with a thermal resistant glass door.

And so the brick furnace can be installed in the house of the economy class:

Pondering the location of the furnace, you need to consider the following:

The design numbering more than 500 bricks should have a private foundation that cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
The chimney should not come into contact with the beams of the attic overlap and the rafters of the roof. It should be borne in mind that in the zone of intersection of the attic overlap, it has a broader, called a flipper.
The minimum distance from the pipe to the ridge of the roof is 1.5 m.

From the first rule there are exceptions:

A hob of a low and wide body equipped with a heating shield can be installed without a foundation if the gear is able to withstand the load of at least 250 kg / m 2.
In a house with a ribbon sectional foundation, the oven with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of foundations inland walls (including T-shaped). At the same time, the minimum distance from the chick foundation to the base of the foundation of the building is 1.2 m.
A small Russian oven is allowed to be erected on the basis of wooden bar section 150x150 mm (T. N. Head), based on the ground or bite laying of the foundation of the building.

Preparatory work consist in the foundation and installation of heat and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with a chance, a ribbon foundation is constructed under it, you can boob. The usual oven (without Shanntians) is erected on monolithic reinforced concrete plate. On each side, the foundation should be for the outline of the furnace at least than 50 mm.

Insulating "Pie" is recruited in the following sequence:

on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers fill the ruberoid;
on top lay basalt cardboard with a thickness of 4-6 mm or the same sheet of asbestos;
next lay a sheet of roofing iron;
it remains to lay the last layer - basalt cardboard or felt impregnated with a strongly diluted masonry solution.

Masonry can be started only after upper layer will sleep to the roofing gland.

Before the start of the masonry work on the floor in front of the future furnace, you need to build a non-controlled coating, which is usually laid on a lining from asbestos or basalt cardboard roofing sheet. One edge of the sheet presses the first next to the bricks, the rest are harvested and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a coating must defend from the furnace at least 300 mm, while its side edges should go beyond the oven 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Masonry rules in accordance with the friend

The furnace is put in accordance with the friend (see Fig.).

Store the following rules:

The seams between bricks in the heating and the flooding part can have a width of up to 13 mm, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: in a major side - to a width of 5 mm, to a smaller one - up to 2 mm.
Dressing seams between ceramic and chamotte masonry cannot be done - these materials are very different in thermal expansion. For the same reason, the seams in such sites, as well as around metal or concrete elements, give the maximum thickness (5 mm).
The masonry must be conducted with the dressing of the seams, that is, each seam should be overlapped with a neighboring brick at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
The calculation of each row begins with angular bricks whose position is checked with a level and plumb. That the verticality does not have to check each time, along the corners of the furnace stretch strictly vertically cords (for this you need to score nails into the ceiling and in the seams between bricks) and are in the future oriented.
The doors and valves are fixed in the masonry by means of a knitting wire laid in the seams, or with the help of curls made from steel strip 25x2 mm. The second option is for the furnace door (especially the upper part), oven and heat dampers: there will be a wire quickly.

Only the outer size of the chimney increases in the roller and extermination, the inner section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates sliced \u200b\u200bfrom brick are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney needs to be placed.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the body of the furnace is starting with a sub-optical part.

In the absence of sufficient experience, the ranks should first lay out without a solution and to align well, and only then shift the row to the solution. Also, novice masters are recommended to lay out the flooding part of the furnace in the formwork.
After laying the 3rd row, a confusion door is installed on it.
It should be exhibited by level. For sealing the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with asbestos cord.
Next lay out the heat, for which they use a furnace and chamotte brick.
Before laying, the blocks are cleaned with a brush from dust. Ceramic brick It is necessary to moisten, lowering in the container with water, then smooth. Wetting chamotte brick not only is not required, but not allowed. Solution Many people are applied by hand, since the Kelma put a thin layer with a thickness of 3 mm not easy. Brick need to immediately put correctly, not correlacing and not going down. If it was not possible to do it from the first time, the operation should be repeated, pre-removing the solution smeared to the brick - it is impossible to use it.
After laying a few more rows, the rollercan chamber is overlapped with a grate grid. It should lie on chammed bricks in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
Install the flue door - in the same order, in which the door was put to pondering.
Put the rows of the furnace part. If a low plate is erected, then a row of bricks over the heat door must be somewhat moving back so that they are not tilted with a heavy cast-iron web when opening it.
The furnace chamber overlaps with a hob or arch (in pure heating furnaces). The slab on the solution due to a significant difference in the thermal expansion between the cast iron and the clay cannot be laid - under it you need to put asbestos cord.
Next continues the masonry of the furnace according to the order, drawing up the gas convector system. So that the soot gathered at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it is easily removed, the height of the lower inter-channel transitions (pensions) should be 30-50% more than the top (they are called passes). The edges of the pass should be rounded.

Having finished the construction of the body of the furnace, proceed to the construction of the chimney.

Features of formation of vault

Arches are two species:

flat: Vaults of this type are laying from the shaped bricks in the same way, but instead circled a flat pallet. A flat arch has one feature: it should be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will very soon crumbling. Therefore, even the cook with sufficient experience, this part of the furnace builds with the use of purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
semi-curvous (arched).

The latter are laid out using a template, also called Crooked:

Start from installation on a solution of extreme reference blocks - swees, which pre-trim according to the drawing of the arch-made in full size.
After drying, the solution is installed grinding and laid the wings of the arch.
Castle stones are poured with a purulent or wooden hammer, pre-applying a thick layer of solution. At the same time, the solution of wings laying is extruded: if the masonry was performed without disorders, this process will take place evenly throughout the total.

Crooked should be removed only after complete drying of the solution.

The angle between the axes of neighboring bricks in the semi-curvous arch should not exceed 17 degrees. For standard sizes The blocks of the seam between them inside (from the furnace) should have a width of 2 mm, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

So that the furnace was economical, it must be maintained in good condition. The crack of the width of only 2 mm in the valve area will provide heat loss at the level of 10% due to the uncontrolled air flow through it.

Turn the oven is also needed correctly. With a highly open confusion, it can fly into a pipe from 15 to 20% of heat, and if the fuel door will be opened during burning, then all 40%.

Firewood, which is token by the furnace must necessarily be dry. To do this, they need to harm the ahead. Raw Firewood give less heat, and in addition, because of the abundance of moisture in them in chimney is formed a large number of Acid condensate, which intensively destroys brick walls.

So that the furnace warmed uniformly, the thickness of the lane should be the same - about 8-10 cm.

Firewood is laid by rows or cells so that the gap of 10 mm remains between them. From the top of the fuel laying to the top of the furnace, the distance of at least 20 mm should remain, even better if the firebox is filled with 2/3.

Rizhane the bulk of fuel produce rays, paper, etc. Use acetone, kerosene or gasoline is prohibited.

After the extracts, you need to block the view so that the heat does not eat through the chimney.

When setting up the thrust during the extracts, you need to navigate the flame color. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by yellow color fire; If it became white - the air is served with an excess and much of heat is thrown into the chimney; The red color speaks about the lack of air - fuel burns not completely, and a large amount of harmful substances are thrown into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including soot)

Cleaning and repairing furnaces are usually performed in summer, in the winter it will be necessary to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Saya is an excellent heat insulator and with its large amounts the furnace will become less efficient.

With a grain grille, the ash must be removed before each furnace.

Tracting in the furnace, which means that its work is regulated by a support, a valve and a confusion door. Therefore, the state of these devices must be constantly monitored. With any malfunctions or wear, it should be repaired or replaced.

Video: how to fold the furnace with your own hands

Whatever the brick furnace option you choose, it will work efficiently only in a well-insulated house. Otherwise, friendship between them will not.

Brick little furnace is sometimes quite useful, especially if you do not big room And you do not live in it constantly. It will quickly warm the room and create a comfortable setting.

Today we will tell you how a small brick oven is done with your own hands that it is necessary to take into account and will be offered instructions for the rules of manufacture. You can also watch the video in this article and choose the desired modification.

Mini furnaces and their features

Little brick furnaces for giving have their own features, before making a final decision with them it is worth familiar.

The compactness of structures from brick or the device is considered to be the main condition for a small room;
An important condition for such a furnace is security, because usually country houses Built from a tree that will quickly dry in the sun and when the claim is hit, it can completely flare out like a match. Among other things, the chimney pipe and the device itself must be sealed, they have a beautiful inner traction, because the damp gas that falls inside can lead to enough sad consequences;
Furnace that is put on cottage plot In winter, it must be withstanding without extracts for a long time and not cooked at the same time;
Warming up and fast extracts of the device, the distribution of heat is also the most important condition For a furnace of such a type, because during the rain or at the end of difficult work, I want to relax in the warm room and drink hot tea;
It is desirable that such a stove is equipped with large doors - so that it can perform the Fire Functions, because without evening gatherings near the fire, it is practically unrealistic;
Long preservation of heat is an extremely necessary point, if you go to the house with overnight;
Without a cooking surface in country house It is almost unrealistic to do, especially if electricity occurs in the village periodically and there is no gas supply;
Also an important factor is fuel, which is used for the stove for saving, choose an omnivorous device for heating, which can be cleaned various options - twigs, coal, firewood or household garbage;
It is desirable that in the oven there is an opportunity to build a hot water register;
The simplicity of the design of the heating device is allowed to add and install it on their own, which saves a round sum, because the services of masters in this regard are not suiced;
An important point is aesthetic appeal, because with the help of the device you can transform the room, or bring some gray spot in the overall design.

Brick furnaces

A small brick oven for giving is applied quite often.

But when installing, the following points will be taken into account:

The stove can be installed in such a way that it will spread warmly into several rooms without heating circuits. If the furnace was removed correctly and the valve is installed - it is considered to be a fireproof, but under this structure it will be necessary to create a strong base, which will be isolated from the foundation of the walls. it bathroomif you do not observe it, then the masonry can lose its integrity, because when the foundation of the foundation at home, he can start pulling the base of the furnace;

ATTENTION: Do not forget that such furnaces do not like long downtime and dampness, therefore, so that the heat transfer to be maximum after the period when it is not used, it is necessary to carry out several dried furnaces without significant loads. In each of them, gradually increase the amount of fuel - this process is usually called acceleration.

It is because of the fact that the brick is afraid of dampness, such stoves are mounted in the country only when a majority of time live in the house and there is an opportunity to conduct a firebox;
Residents of private houses consider useful and real only buildings that are made of bricks. Wherein heating devicesMade from other materials are not recognized at all. In fact, such a stove will give the room a special comfort and a unique atmosphere. And what else is important - they are multifunctional. Professionals in the bary developed a huge number of diverse models from which you can choose to a specific option.

Installation of a small furnace

A small brick oven is installed with their own hands without any problems.

There are two options here:

First option, you just make a stove with the foundation. Then the price of the structure will increase, but it will be a pretty heat machine;
Second optionThis is if you do not have enough money and you do not have skills. Then it is quite possible to install a metal furnace and to increase the heat capacity simply to put the brick.

ATTENTION: In the first version, you will have a building more space, and the heat transfer will be higher.

Materials that will be required for work

You will need:

Twenty liters of the clay solution;
Boards;
About sixty pieces of brick;
Paddle door;
Cast iron plate;
Cooker;
Lattice;
Chamotte brick.

The size of a small stove takes 0.4 m2 and is made of brick, which is stacked on the edge or plafhmy. This type of furnace preserves and distributes heat.

The design is quite simple, because the mini-oven does not weigh too much and the foundation device is not mandatory condition. The floor should be made of thick and durable boards that are well fixed.

A similar furnace is an alternative to bourgear, but it has a more functional ability and the heating part in which the cooking part is provided. She also plays the role of the fireplace. Such a furnace is erected without any problems and within a day.

At the very beginning, it is necessary to melt the stove with paper and chips, but do not take the lamps, because with sharp temperature differences, cracks can be formed in solution. This will further lead to smoking or improper air movement.

Before you run the oven, it is necessary that it is hard enough. Usually enough for about a week.

Mixture mix

Everything can be done with your own hands. Then the price will be significantly lower. In the masonry it is quite possible to apply several compositions. What to choose, to solve you already.

So:

For masonry bricks are used slice-sand, cement mortar. For example, insane instead of sand for a mixture is used to fill the foundation, and a mixture of cement and sand is one or more rows of masonry. If the sand is added for the cement brand, the sand is added, then for the screed screed, it is necessary to mix in the ratio of 1/6;
The solution from sand and clay prepare a little more difficult, because it will take much more time. So that the Koma clay is broken, they must be mashed in water from the evening, and those that remained in the same condition, it is better to knead their hands so that small lumps remains;
The ratio of clay and sand is one to two or one to three - everything depends on the degree of fattyness of the solution (this is checked by a trowel). A standard is considered to be a consistency when the solution slides from the trinity without any problems, without leaving the traces, and on its thickness it should remind a puree from potatoes.

How do the stove

How to make a small brick stove now consider in detail. There is a technology and procedure here.

In order to properly build the stove itself, it is necessary to comply with the following recommendations:

ATTENTION: For the furnace part it is necessary to apply refractory material. It will endure and coal fire. It is better to use a clay mixture as a solution. It is most practical and durable.

Choose a suitable place for mini-stove, and in it instead we are placing the runneroid, film, parchment or hydrosol. The size of such a material should be 78x53 centimeters;
On the litter (the thickness of which is about a centimeter) it is necessary to pour out and spinning sand;
From above on it, we put the first row of twelve bricks that do not need to cover the fastening among themselves. After that, align all the bricks in one level so that they are strictly in a horizontal position;
A small layer of clay is applied to the initial row, after which you can start installing the subdivoile door. It is imperative that it is wrapped in asbestos cord or cardboard. I fix it with the help of a wire, after which you can safely go to laying the following;
Chamotte bricks are used for the third row of a mini-stove, after which the grate grille is installed. It is mounted above the confusion only in the case when the third brick range is fully formed;
From bricks, we do the following, but they are placed on the edge, in the middle of the chimney, it is necessary to lay stands for internal partitions. The rear wall of the stove is stacked with a small protrusion outside and without the use of clay - they are called bad bricks;
After that, we install the flue door. Again, before proceeding to the installation of the door, it must be wrapped with a cord in such a way that it can be opened from the bottom up. It is fixed with wire and for a while they are fixed with several stones. The first is stacked in the back, and the second - on top of the door;
Also, for the reliability of attachment to the holes, a wire is started, which twists and the ends are laid in order;

The plafhmy makes the fifth row, here we must check the contour of the past row. But the sixth row is stacked by an edge. Then we rub the walls of the big stove with a wet rag and proceed to the next stage;
On 7 row bricks are placed on the plastics. Next, set a couple of bricks by an edge and proceed to the rear wall;
When the time will come, 8 rows of the stove on their own, make sure that it overlaps the flue door, over which it will end. It is at this time that we set the sputted brick above the furnace so that the flames are sent to the center of the plate of the plate;
Put the wet asbestos cord in advance so that the space between the bricks and stove is completely hermetically. Since the cast iron and clay has a different coefficient of temperature expansion, the slab does not fit on the clay. After you can go to the ninth row, but here it must be shifted to keep the doors to keep open;
When working with the following will require the formation of a chimney, which will expand from behind. To make the stove just such a plan, there is no need for a hood tube that will expand at the top, since this type of pipe will lead to a change in the center of gravity. Exist various schemes chimneys. They are: horizontal, straight, countercurrent, combined and so on. In our design, the stove must have a direct option;
When working with the next next, do not forget about the insertion of the plug, which is condensed with the cord (it is desirable to further deceive its clay);
Thus, pipes will be docked with metallic. If the smoke goes aside, it is necessary to overlap with several brick rows;
After that, we take a brick from the fourth row and clean the pipe from the dirt that accumulated during the construction work;
Belim oven. Metal part of the oven itself and its walls by protecting the film. So that it is not a jewel with time, the milk and a small amount of blue can be added to the solution. Each piece of the stove should be processed in the most thorough way, special attention is paid to the joints of bricks and a cast-iron surface;
The gaps between the first next and the floor carefully close up. It is necessary in order for the sand that was covered under the brick, did not wake up;
After the edge of the structure, you feed the plinth, which will protect the stove about sand rashes. It is nourished in short and tight to overlap all the cracks. Thanks to such actions, the stove will look even better;
As soon as you exercise the first heat to chips and paper, we leave all the doors and burners in the open position for several days so that everything is pretty dry.

A small brick oven for giving is done pretty quickly and will serve it for a long time. The main thing is to watch the photo and select the desired option. The instruction will not let you allow mistakes.

In times, when a stationary solid fuel furnace was the only existing means Heating at home, the profession of the Peckerel enjoyed great popularity and respect. To date, a variety of different aggregates operating on a variety of fuel can be used to arrange individual heating, but brick furnaces still remain in demand.

Currently, finding a truly competent liver is a difficult task. And you don't need to do this, because you can post a full-fledged stove with your own hands.

Before proceeding with independent masonry, see the features of existing varieties of such aggregates. The stoves are:

heating. Designed exclusively for heating. Such furnaces have an extremely simple design and are laid out in the shortest possible time and with the smallest efforts compared with the designs of other types;
heating and waro. The most popular and demanded option. At the same time heated the house and allow you to prepare food;

Also there are improved varieties of heating and vary furnaces with a built-in kitchen stove or even a full-fledged oven.

The individual category includes fireplaces. This is an excellent option for a modern private house. Such structures are perfectly coping with the tasks of the heating of the premises and have an attractive appearance. Correctly laid out and finished oven-fireplace will become a worthy addition to the interior as small country houseand expensive private villa.

The schemes of modern furnaces distinguish them not only for purpose, but also according to the features of the form. Most often in private homes, rectangular and square units are installed. But if you wish, you can post a round oven. Specify the specific option, taking into account the characteristics of the room and your own preferences.

The furnace, of course, you can postpone with your own hands and numerous schemes will help you do it in the shortest possible time. However, when performing such a job, remember that any furnace, regardless of its purpose, forms and other characteristics should fully respond to the current fire safety standards.

Choosing a place and type of foundation for the stove

Before the installation of the furnace, pay due attention to finding a place to accommodate it. For example, if the unit is placed in the middle of the room, it will be able to give much more heat, warming up from all sides and evenly heating the air around.

If you place the furnace at the wall (and this option is used most often), the floor will constantly "walk" cold air. Therefore, in this regard, you need to decide on your own.

Pre-define the installation location of the furnace door. This item must be installed so that in the future you can most conveniently download fuel to the stove, without the spreading garbage from wood or coal all over the house. Typically, the coil door is located on the part of the kitchen or some low-transmitted room.

The finished brick stove will have enough impressive weight. To make the device as securely as possible and long, it is necessary to prepare an individual concrete foundation.

Features of the design of the furnace

Traditional brick ovens have a fairly simple design. However, the seeming at first glance simplicity allows you to achieve very high performance indicators and efficiency.

The main elements of the brick furnace hull are the fuel and chimney. Hobs Additionally, equipped with plates and / or ovens, it is also possible to install a tank for water heating.

The fuel is the main part of the furnace unit. It is in the fuelhouse that firewood or other used for heating fuel is loaded. The fuel can have a wide variety of sizes. When determining suitable dimensions, several important factors should be taken into account, such as:

type of fuel used. If you fir the oven to firewood, make a 50-100 cm fifthly high;
required manufacturing;
required volume.

Use refractory brick to arrange a fuel. The wall thickness of the design under consideration cannot be less than half of the brick.

Chimney also applies to the number of main elements of any heating furnace. The chimney is designed to disrupt the fuel gases with various harmful inclusions formed during the operation of the furnace.

At the design stage of the chimney, try to think through everything so that its design has a minimal number of bends and turns. Ideally, the chimney must be completely vertical. Any kind of bends will lead to a deterioration of thrust and reduce the effectiveness of the heating of the room.

An important elements of the brick furnace design belongs to the Raspberry Camera. In this compartment will be collected ash. Also through the ashpan provides air supply inside the unit, to fuel. The coil chamber is placed under the grille of the grate and is supplied with its own door. Traditionally, the height of the ash bar is 3 bricks.

What solution to use for masonry?

The reliability and durability of the finished furnace directly depends on the quality of the mosquito solution. The masonry will be carried out using a sand-clay-based solution.

There is nothing complicated in the preparation of the solution. Take clay, pour it with water and soak. Satch the mixture through the sieve, and then stir in the "clay milk". At the end, add some amount of water to obtain a rather viscous and plastic solution.

Remember, the reliability and durability of the furnace directly depends on the correctness of the preparation of a masonry solution. You will do everything as needed - the furnace will effectively heat your home for long years. Break up the technology or decide to significantly save on materials - the thermal unit is unlikely to fully be able to fully disclose its potential and to simultaneously sleep for at least some long term.

The main stages and important features of the furnace masonry

From the moment of filling the foundation before the start of construction, 3-4 weeks should pass. During this time, the base will type the necessary strength and can withstand the weight of a brick oven. The work under consideration requires maximum responsibility and focusing on the part of the Contractor. Any errors can lead to irreparable consequences, so tune in advance to work and highlight a sufficient amount of time to execute it.

The furnace laying is carried out in several stages.

First stage. Lay out the brick of the asolnik and the lower part of the first cap. Masonry performed using the previously considered sandy-clay on the solution.

Second phase. Install the Kolnik door in the masonry. To fix the door, use galvanized wire.

Third stage.

Fourth stage. Mount the furnace. Observe the inside of this compartment with refractory bricks. Lay the bricks "on the edge". At this stage you need to use a special masonry solution. It is preparing as standard, but instead of simple clay, refractory is taken, i.e. chamoite. Secure the door of the furnace chamber with the help of a steel plate and the wire you are already familiar.

Fifth stage. Continue standard masonry until you reach the 12th row. Having reached this row, overcoat the fuel chamber and flatly put the tile with burners. This stove must be made of cast iron. Staying accurately control using a building level.

Sixth stage. Lay out the first cap. It is erected in the left edge of the stove. In the same stage, the channel for the summer stroke is equipped.

Seventh stage. Install the plate and lay the walls of the cooking compartment. Put the calculation of the lower cap mentioned earlier.

Eighth stage. Install the valve for the mentioned summer stroke channel. This valve is placed in the inner corner of the cooking department.

Ninth stage. Put masonry until the 20th row. Having reached this row, break off the cooking compartment and the first cap. Be sure to leave in a solid laying the required number of holes for the summer stroke and the lifting channel, as well as the outlet of the cooking compartment. Bricks Place on the corners of steel - so you will provide higher strength and reliability of the stove.

Tenth stage. Close the woor separation portal by swing fireplace doors. It is better that the doors have inserts from heat-resistant glass. Such a decision will allow you to follow the process of burning fuel and admire the flame.

Eleventh stage. Install the cleaner doors for easy seasy removal. To install, choose such a place to which you will be easier to get.

The twelfth stage. Lay out the walls of the cap almost to the top edge of the wall opening. At the top, overcoat the stove of a pair of bricks. The lumen between the riding stove and the jumper fill the minvata. Due to this, additional heat insulation will be ensured and the effectiveness of heating is somewhat increased.

Thirteenth stage. Lay out the decorative lounge on the upper perimeter of the unit.

Fourteenth stage. Getting Started with a smoking pipe device. It is better that the chimney is brick. Such a design will last much longer than the same metal or asbestos pipes.

At the end, you will only have to put it until the end of the chimney and fulfill the external stove finish if desired. The easiest option is shuffling. Otherwise, focus on your own preferences and affordable budget.

Thus, laying the stove although it is not a simple event, but it can be performed with your own hands. It's fairly simply to figure out the technology and follow the instructions in everything. Remember, materials for work must be the highest quality. And the chases proven over the years will allow you to independently build an aggregate, which will be a long-year one for many years to give your home without any problems and complaints.

Good job!

Video - laying stoves with their own schemes

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