The most efficient wood-fired brick oven. How to fold a brick stove for a house or summer cottage

Modern brick ovens for summer cottages on wood perfectly warm the room and do not dry the air at the same time. Every summer resident can build such a structure, if the process of project implementation is correctly approached. In addition to being a source of heat in the house, wood-burning stoves are used to prepare meals. Firewood, as a source of fuel, is a cheap and, most importantly, environmentally friendly material, which is not difficult to get in the countryside.

What are they?

Brick stoves for wood-fired homes, despite the presence of modern electric fireplaces, still remain relevant in many country mansions. A similar structure is being built according to drawings and diagrams, which are not difficult to find. fits perfectly into any interior. Building such a structure in a house has a number of advantages:

Wood-burning stoves retain heat in the room for a long time and do not cool down as quickly as metal devices.
The heat from the device spreads evenly over the entire area of the room, simultaneously warming up the neighboring rooms.
When building, you can independently calculate the consumption of materials and heat transfer.
- a source fresh air and a healthy atmosphere.

Types of structures

There are several types of summer or winter wood-burning stoves for a home, each of which has unique characteristics and construction schemes. The main types of devices:

Heating. The main task of such stoves is to heat the room as quickly and efficiently as possible in order to create comfortable living conditions for people. The size of the structures is selected individually, depending on the needs of the customer.
Cooking. The design is also called a food oven for the kitchen. In such devices, various dishes are prepared. Some projects are meant to be integrated into one complete system, which greatly enriches the functionality.

What are they built from and what tools are needed?

Before starting construction, it is important to check the presence of all tools and materials for the work. It is quite difficult for beginners to lay furnaces alone, so it is recommended that the entire process be supervised by a person experienced in construction. To build fireplace stoves with your own hands, you need the following inventory:

shovel;
trowel;
roulette;
building level;
hammer;
plumb line;
Master OK;
rule.

The scheme for building a wood-burning stove provides a standard set necessary materials:

For the design itself you will need hob.

corner;
gate valve;
hob;
oven;
doors;
bricks different types;
clay and sand, crushed stone;
cement, water and others Additional materials for the solution.

Stages of work

Preparation of the solution

The project of a stove for a summer kitchen involves several stages of construction. At the first stage, it is necessary to allocate a place for the future foundation, prepare a pit. After that, the solution is mixed, and the base is formed supporting structure... After pouring the cement mixture, you must wait a certain period of time (2-3 days) until the foundation dries. Next, prepare a solution from clay and proceed to the main process of laying.

The mixture for laying bricks in a wood-burning stove is made of a thick consistency, while it is important to take into account some features. Before using the ready-made solution, be sure to check its quality. There are several techniques that allow you to assess the degree of readiness of the mixture. Several balls are rolled from the solution, which subsequently, after drying, should not have cracks on the surface. If there are any, the masonry mix is not of the best quality. You can bake a similar ball in the oven. In the case when, after baking, the product has retained its shape and there are no visible damages, the solution is considered to be of high quality.

With a fireplace for heating a house, there will be no problems in operation if all construction standards are followed.

How to lay bricks?

Closer to the 10th row of bricks, a firebox is formed.

Along the entire base, two continuous rows of bricks are laid out in accordance with the construction scheme. The edges of the structure are laid out from solid products.
In the 3rd row, an ash-pan is formed, the door of which is fixed on the 2nd row of masonry. The fourth and fifth brick rows must be covered, after which a drying chamber for wood is installed, if desired.
After the 6th row, the furnace system is built up to the inside, while controlling the level of the bookmark and the corners.
On the 7th row, fittings are mounted in the form of a grate and a solid grate, and the door for the firebox is fixed.
After that, at stages 8 and 10, a combustion chamber is formed, while in the process of lining it is necessary to fix the dryer, which completely overlaps, starting from row 11. The surface of the structure is lined with metal rods, after which it is poured concrete mix... The laying of the future chimney takes place.
A brick is placed in line 12, on which a small kitchen stove will be mounted. The surface is installed directly into the brickwork, and water tanks are fixed next to it.
The masonry stages are completed with the formation of a chimney.

Today, numerous manufacturers of solid fuel heating equipment offer us the widest range of metal stoves and boilers, which is replenished with more and more new models from year to year. But despite all their advantages, the owners of non-gasified houses still retain the honor of an ordinary brick stove - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What is the reason for the truly popular love for this unit? Our article will not only give an answer to this question, but also acquaint the reader with various types of furnaces and the technology of building a brick type with their own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick oven in the house

So, let's try to understand why an old heating device is often more preferable than its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

The furnace body is an excellent heat accumulator: Due to this property, a brick furnace has to be fired much less frequently than a conventional steel or even cast iron one. Some varieties keep heat up to 24 hours, while firewood needs to be thrown into the firebox of a metal stove every 4-6 hours.
The ability to store heat makes the brick oven more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal “substitutes”. The fuel burns in it in the optimal mode - with the highest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The resulting excess heat is absorbed by the brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
The outer surface of the oven does not heat up to high temperatures.

Due to this, the heat radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves. In addition, upon contact with hot metal, dust contained in the air burns up, emitting harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic unpleasant odor). Of course, they cannot be poisoned, but they certainly do harm to health.

A brick oven (this does not apply to stone) emits steam when heated, and absorbs it again when it cools. This process is called oven breathing. Thanks to him, relative humidity heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40-60%. When operating any other heater that is not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

The steel stove has nowhere to put the excess heat, so it either has to be heated often by adding small portions of fuel, or operated in a smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one fuel tab increases, but it burns out with incomplete heat transfer and with large quantity carbon monoxide and other substances harmful to the environment - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to make sure of this: a brick stove gives out noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while from the chimney of a steel stove, in which the fuel smolders, black smoke is constantly pouring down. Metal solid fuel heaters are devoid of this drawback. long burning(full-fledged, not so-called. gas-generating furnaces, only simulating gas generation). But they are very expensive, they have complex structure and need an electricity supply, without which a brick oven can be easily dispensed with.

What can be opposed to all of the above? The cooled room with a brick oven heats up for a long time. Therefore, homeowners are still advised to acquire an additional steel convector, which heats the air in a forced mode while the stove is heated.

It should also be noted that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that should be erected along with the house. And ideally should do this experienced master that still needs to be found.

Application of brick ovens

The scope of application of stoves is not limited by their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks that such a unit can solve:

Smoking meat and fish.
Remelting scrap metal (cupola furnace).
Hardening and cementation of metal parts (muffle furnaces).
Firing of ceramic products.
Heating of blanks in a blacksmith shop.
Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms, it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here she will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to quick spoilage.

Varieties of structures

The above diagram in different ovens can be modified. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-type.

Dutch woman

This scheme is called channel serial. Such a furnace is very simple to manufacture and its design can be easily adjusted to any room, but the maximum efficiency for it is only 40%.

Swedish unit

A very good option for a heating and cooking stove.

A very good version of a heating and cooking stove. Its scheme is called a chamber. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the oven and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has several advantages:

Efficiency at the level of 60%;
a heat exchanger can be installed on the side of the oven to heat water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the oven roof;
gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), therefore, building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar can be used for its construction;
a convector with this shape warms up the room to its full height as evenly as possible;
near a Swedish oven, you can quickly warm up and dry out if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture, require very high quality materials and require a foundation.

Bell furnace

Self-regulation scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after they have completely burned out under the hood.

Such a mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is rather complicated to manufacture (there are high loads in the design). And it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove stove

The scheme of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called a flowing one. The convector is not provided in it.

The scheme of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called a flowing one. The convector is not provided in it. The owner of the Russian stove wins in the following:

The efficiency reaches 80%;
the structure has an interesting appearance;
such dishes of our national cuisine, which you cannot cook otherwise than in a Russian oven.

The Russian stove can be folded independently if you follow the drawings carefully. The slightest deviations can ruin the structure.

General device of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complicated.

In the brick massif there is a chamber with a door in which fuel is burned - a firebox (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (pos. 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the furnace. There is another chamber under the grate, called an ash pan or a blower, which is also closed by a door (pos. 4 and 6). Through this door, air from outside enters the furnace and through it the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through the hole back wall flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined channel directed towards the front wall. Khailo ends with a constriction - a nozzle. This is followed by a U-shaped channel called a gas convector (pos. 16).

The walls of the gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the oven. This duct is called an air convector (pos. 14). A door (pos. 18) is installed at its outlet, which is closed in summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

cleaning door (pos. 12): through it, the flue duct is cleaned;
a valve for setting the combustion mode (pos. 15);
view (pos. 17): it is also a valve, by means of which, after kindling, when all carbon monoxide has already evaporated, block the chimney in order to retain heat.

Thermal insulation surrounding the chimney in the intersection area attic floor and the roof is called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the overlap, the chimney walls are made thicker. This broadening is called fluff (item 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof, the chimney has another widening - an otter (pos. 24). It prevents rain moisture from penetrating into the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other positions:

1 and 2 - foundation with thermal and waterproofing;
3 - legs or trenches: for a stove with such elements, less brick is required, moreover, it has an additional heating surface from below;
5 - the beginning of a special air channel (stranglehold), through which uniform heating of the room in height is achieved;
10 - furnace roof;
13 - bend of the air convector, called overflow or pass;
20 - stove overlap;
22 - attic floor.

Preparation for construction

Required materials, selection

When erecting a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

Building ceramic bricks (red). They lay out the lowest rows - the so-called underfloor part (indicated by oblique shading in the diagram), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
Furnace ceramic bricks. Also red, but in comparison with construction it has a higher quality (brand - M150) and withstands more high temperatures- up to 800 degrees. Outwardly, they can be distinguished by their size: the dimensions of the stove are 230x114x40 (65) mm, while for the construction one - 250x125x65 mm. The firing (furnace) part of the furnace is laid out with oven bricks, in the diagram it is indicated by hatching in a box.
Fireclay brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay brick combines a high heat capacity (it is a very "capacious" heat accumulator) and an equally high thermal conductivity.

Note! In this case, a facing brick cannot be used.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the hot part with fireclay bricks alone - the furnace will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense heat radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must necessarily be lined with oven bricks at least half a brick.

The dimensions of the fireclay bricks are the same as those of the stove bricks. It is often recommended to determine its quality by color depth, but this method is only valid for those products for which the clay was mined in one place. If we compare chamotte clay from different deposits, then the color does not always give an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles distinguishable by the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the figure, a quality sample is on the left). When tapping with a metal object, a high-quality fireclay brick should emit a sonorous and clear sound, and when dropped from a certain height, it splits into large pieces. A low-quality one will respond to tapping with dull sounds, and when dropped, it will crumble into many small fragments.

Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:

Cement-sand: those parts of the kiln, which consist of ordinary building bricks, are laid on an ordinary cement-sand mortar.
High quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of rock sand and Portland cement of the M400 and higher grade, is used if an irregular furnace is supposed to be fired. The fact is that a dried clay solution, with insufficient heating, can be saturated with moisture and turn sour again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200-250 degrees (in the diagram - oblique shading with filling), instead of clay, a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on rock sand is used. We emphasize that this should be done only if the oven will often be idle during the cold season.
Clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: solutions of excellent quality are obtained on the basis of sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so they try to minimize its amount in the solution.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:

the clay is soaked for a day, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 solution options: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
after 4 hours of drying, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder should be wrapped around a 50mm blank.

We analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the surface layer itself is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the solution is considered suitable for masonry with a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; with deeper cracks, the solution is considered unusable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry work, which includes:

trowel;
hammer pick;
grooving for seams;
mortar shovel.

The stove-maker must have a rake-order. It has a section of 5x5 cm, brackets for fastening in the seams and marks corresponding to the position of the individual rows. Having installed 4 orders at the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heater

The method for calculating the furnace is extremely complex and requires a lot of experience, but there is simplified version proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m 2 of the surface area of the furnace, the following heat transfer values are taken:

under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
in severe frosts, when the stove is heated especially intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in terms of 1.5x1.5 m, with a surface area of 17.5 m 2, will generate 8.5 kW in the normal mode, and 13.3 kW in the intensive mode. This performance will be sufficient for a house with an area of 80–100 m 2.

The calculation of the firebox is also very complicated, but today it is not necessary. Instead of designing and manufacturing a homemade firebox, it is better to buy a ready-made one in the store: it is already calculated according to all the rules and will be cheaper.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

The size of the firebox and the location of the fasteners must correspond to the size of the brick used.
For a stove that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded sheet steel firebox; for permanent use, you only need to buy a cast iron firebox.
The depth of the ash shaft (the lower narrowing of the furnace) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber if most of the time the stove will be fired with coal or peat, and one fifth if wood fuel or pellets will be the main one.

The cross-section of chimneys that meet standard requirements (straight vertical passage, head height above the grate is from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the furnace power:

with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the stove, therefore, sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the adopted section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the stove begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to do an accurate calculation manually is to simply count the bricks in order, which will only take about an hour. More modern version- simulate the oven in one of the dedicated computer programs. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a place, schemes

The method of installing the stove depends on the size of the house and the location in it. various premises... Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will heat the entire building with high quality, and in summer, with an open window, it can be quite comfortable to cook on it.

In a big house with permanent residence the oven can be positioned like this:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a heat-resistant glass door.

And thus, a brick oven can be installed in an economy class dwelling:

When considering the location of the oven, consider the following:

A structure with more than 500 bricks must have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
The chimney must not come into contact with attic beams and roof rafters. It should be borne in mind that in the intersection zone of the attic floor, it has a broadening, called fluff.
The minimum distance from the pipe to the ridge of the roof is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

The hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heat shield, can be installed without a foundation if the floor is able to withstand a load of at least 250 kg / m2.
In a house with a strip sectional foundation, a furnace with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations interior walls(including T-shaped). In this case, the minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the building foundation strips is 1.2 m.
A small Russian stove is allowed to be erected on a base made of a wooden bar with a section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), resting on the ground or rubble laying of the foundation of the building.

Preparatory work consists in the construction of the foundation and laying of heat and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation is built under it, you can use rubble. An ordinary furnace (without trenches) is erected on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab... On each side, the foundation should protrude at least 50 mm beyond the outline of the furnace.

The insulating "pie" is typed in the following sequence:

roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
basalt cardboard 4–6 mm thick or the same sheet of asbestos is placed on top;
then put a sheet of roofing iron;
it remains to lay the last layer - basalt cardboard or felt impregnated with highly diluted masonry mortar.

Laying can only be started after the top layer has dried to the roof gland.

Before the start of masonry work, a fireproof covering must be built on the floor in front of the future furnace, which is usually a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed by the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a coating should be at least 300 mm away from the oven, while its side edges should extend beyond the oven by 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Masonry rules in accordance with the order

The oven is placed in accordance with the order (see fig.).

Stick to the following rules:

The seams between the bricks in the arch of the firebox and the underfloor part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upwards - up to a width of 5 mm, downwards - up to 2 mm.
It is impossible to bandage the seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, the seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given a maximum thickness (5 mm).
The laying must be carried out with the bandaging of the seams, that is, each seam must be overlapped by a neighboring brick at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
The layout of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked with a level and a plumb line. So that the verticality does not have to be checked every time, the cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the furnace (for this you need to hammer nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and then they are guided by them.
Doors and dampers are fixed in the masonry by means of knitting wire inserted into the seams, or by means of clamps made of steel strip 25x2 mm. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and heat dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In the fluff and otter, only the outer size of the chimney increases, the inner section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from bricks are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The erection of the furnace body begins from the underfloor part.

In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and well leveled, and only then the row should be shifted to the solution. Also, novice craftsmen are recommended to lay out the underfloor part of the furnace in the formwork.
After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
It must be leveled. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with an asbestos cord.
Next, lay out the hot part, for which they use oven and fireclay bricks.
Before laying, the blocks are cleaned from dust with a brush. Ceramic brick must be moistened by dropping it into a container with water, then shaken off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove-makers apply the solution by hand, since it is not easy to lay a thin layer of 3 mm with a trowel. The brick must be immediately laid down correctly, without straightening or tapping. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, having previously removed the mortar smeared on the brick - it can no longer be used.
After laying several more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
The combustion door is installed in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
Lay out the rows of the furnace part. If a low slab is being erected, then the row of bricks above the furnace door must be slightly moved back so that they are not overturned by a heavy cast-iron sheet when it is opened.
The combustion chamber is covered with a hob or vault (in purely heating stoves). Due to the significant difference in thermal expansion between cast iron and clay, the slab cannot be laid on the mortar - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
Next, they continue laying the furnace in accordance with the order, making out the gas convection system. In order for the soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it can be easily removed, the height of the lower interchannel passages (overflows) must be 30-50% higher than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes need to be rounded off.

Having finished the construction of the furnace body, they proceed to the construction of the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

There are two types of vaults:

flat: vaults of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat pallet is used. A flat vault has one feature: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove-makers with sufficient experience build this part of the stove using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a template, also called a circle:

They begin with the installation on the solution of the extreme support blocks - thrust bearings, which are preliminarily trimmed according to the drawing of the arch, made in full size.
After the solution has dried, a circle is installed and the wings of the arch are laid out.
The castle stones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, after applying a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the solution is squeezed out of the wing masonry: if the masonry was performed without disturbances, this process will take place evenly throughout the arch.

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular vault should not exceed 17 degrees. At standard sizes blocks the seam between them inside (from the side of the firebox) must have a width of 2 mm, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For a stove to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack with a width of only 2 mm in the area of the valve will provide a heat loss of 10% due to the uncontrolled flow of air through it.

It is also necessary to heat the stove correctly. With a strongly open blower, from 15 to 20% of the heat can fly into the pipe, and if the furnace door is opened during the combustion of the fuel, then all 40%.

The firewood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Raw firewood gives less heat, and in addition, due to the abundance of moisture in the chimney, it forms a large number of acid condensate, which intensively destroys brick walls.

In order for the oven to warm up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8-10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that a gap of 10 mm remains between them. A distance of at least 20 mm should remain from the top of the fuel tab to the top of the firebox, even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

The main mass of fuel is ignited with a torch, paper, etc. It is prohibited to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to close the view so that the heat does not erode through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by yellow fire; if it turns white, air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances is emitted into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including from soot)

The stove is usually cleaned and repaired in the summer, while in the winter it will be necessary to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator, and a large amount of soot will make the stove less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each firebox.

The draft in the furnace, and hence the mode of its operation, is regulated by a view, a latch and a blower door. Therefore, the state of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any malfunction or wear and tear should be repaired or replaced immediately.

Video: how to fold the oven with your own hands

Whichever version of the brick oven you choose, it will work effectively only in a well-insulated house. Otherwise, there will be no friendship between them.

Brick stoves are very diverse. It is difficult to imagine a traditional village house or a Russian bathhouse without them. But they are also used in modern cottages. In addition, such products can be erected in a summer kitchen, garage, greenhouse. What are the types of brick ovens, how they differ - we will consider in more detail in this article.

How different types differ

The variety of brick products for heating is very large. They can run on wood, coal or other fuels. Act as only a heating device, or also be used for cooking.

Products can be folded in a wide variety of shapes: round, square or complex architectural designs. In size, the products are made from very small models to large-scale multifunctional structures.

Various options for stoves mainly differ in the arrangement of chimneys:

Models with horizontal flue ducts.
Products with vertical channel design.
Counterflow chimneys.
Bell systems.
Combined options.

Stoves can be used only for heating, or have additional functions:

The hobs make it possible to cook food when the stove is heated. But with this design, it is necessary to make a smaller fuel compartment. In addition, the heat capacity of such a model is much lower - a lot of heat goes through the surface of the stove, the stove cools down faster.
The presence of the brass compartment makes the structure more heat-intensive. Hot gases can only heat this compartment, or pass directly through it. In the latter case, you can use the oven chamber only after all the firewood has burned out.
Water pipes can be built into the stove. This design allows heating throughout the house.

Can be combined different options stoves, combine them with fireplaces, perform with a stove bench or heating shield. Often there are two fuel compartments, each of which works for a specific purpose.

Tunnel stove options

Tunnel brick ovens can be performed with vertical or horizontal smoke channels.

Horizontal smoke ducts

Hot gases in this type of stove give off their heat on their way to the chimney. On each channel, it is necessary to provide a cleaning door device, since soot and ash settle on a horizontal surface in large quantities.

To increase the heat transfer of gases, special heat pockets can also be made. By increasing the inner area of the channel, the speed of movement of hot air along them decreases. Consequently, the stove becomes more heat-intensive.

Such a chimney system is not very popular.

Vertical smoke ducts

The design with such an arrangement of channels prevents the free movement of gases inside the chimney. This often leads to overheating of the first channel. In addition, in this case, the construction of a higher chimney is required than with a horizontal scheme.

But this option has serious advantages: due to the high height of the structure, it is less susceptible to air blowing. Thus, the stove turns out to be more heat-intensive.

The main difference between counterflow designs and models with vertical channels is that the hole where the gases are lowered has a wider cross section. They move at a slower speed, managing to give more heat to the brick walls.

Combined chimney systems

Combinations of different systems are often used. This makes it possible to use all the advantages of each design and get rid of its shortcomings for individual design. There are a lot of options for such a combination.

Not all designs are suitable for the device heating furnaces... Some of them are used for simple fireplaces.

Bell system

Brick bell-type furnaces are based on the principle of free movement of gases under the influence of gravity. Inside the structure, a kind of hood is made, where the incoming gases rise up and transfer thermal energy to the brickwork. Cooling down, they gradually descend and go out into the chimney.

This type of stove has many advantages over tunnel options:

Even after the end of fuel combustion in the stove, enough hot air remains under the hood, which gives off heat for a long time.
In such a design, there is no need for a high chimney.
Heat is not blown out in strong winds.
You can build a product of any shape and size.
This design is suitable for stoves operating on various types of fuel.
The efficiency of such stoves is much higher than that of other gas exhaust systems.
These models are more economical in terms of fuel consumption.
This design generates a small amount of soot, so it does not require frequent cleaning.

Several caps can be made. Thus, the heat transfer of gases will be significantly higher. There are several types of such ovens, but they all work on the same principle. A two-bell brick oven is a very effective heater.

Dutch oven

The Dutch brick oven is the simplest brick oven. The great advantage of this design is that it takes up little space.

Very small models have a size of 0.5 x 0.5 m. And although nowadays there are many more efficient products for heating, the Dutch women have not lost their popularity.

The advantages of such a stove:

The large surface area of the structure heats up quickly and cools slowly, which allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature in the room for a long time.
Small size of this product do not require a lot of bricks. Therefore, the price of such a model is quite low.
A powerful base is not required for such a stove, since its weight is much less than that of conventional models.
Ease of operation, maintenance and repair.
You can build a product that will even heat a building of several floors. Two-storey brick ovens - "Dutch" can be made with your own hands.

Round brick oven - "Dutch" - device diagram

This model is applicable both for permanent use and for houses with intermittent residence. It can be easily melted even after long periods of inactivity. The main disadvantage of the "Dutch" can be called its exactingness to the quality of fuel. Often these products are made in a round shape.

Finnish stove

Finnish brick ovens got their name because of their fairly widespread use in the Scandinavian countries. Their popularity in Russia is due to the similarity of the climate and requirements for heating products. They belong to the bell-type types, the room is heated due to the transfer of heat from the massive body of the stove.

The advantages of this type include:

The lightness of a device of this design;
Low weight;
The cost of such a model is quite budgetary;
It has good heat dissipation, traction and high efficiency;
Due to the presence of a large firebox, it heats up quickly;
Correctly folded construction is very aesthetic.

Typically, such products are installed in the center of the room.

Long burning ovens

Long burning brick oven has its own design features and operating principle. It allows you to maintain a comfortable room temperature for a long time. Moreover, there is no need to add fuel.

The design of such a stove assumes the presence of:

Fuel chamber big size- it is necessary to load a lot of firewood for a long time.
Large ash compartment.
Tightly closing door of the combustion chamber.
Adjustable chimney damper.

Long-burning brick ovens - you can build with your own hands if the principle of their operation is clear:

First of all, it is necessary to heat the combustion chamber to the required temperature. At the same time, the chimney heats up and the combustion process is normalized. For this, 4-5 kg of firewood is burned in fast mode.
To warm up the room and get the required amount of coal, the same amount of fuel is burned in the normal mode within 1-1.5 hours.
The final stage is the complete loading of the firebox with wood. It is tightly closed, the chimney is blocked for a minimum access of oxygen. For 10-12 hours, the fuel will slowly smolder to maintain the required temperature in the house.

Important! If the air access is very large, then long-term burning will not work. Also, an open flame must not be allowed in the firebox.

Pyrolysis constructions

Pyrolysis models are a very interesting type of long-burning furnaces that have a practically waste-free principle of operation. To obtain thermal energy, they use not only traditional types of fuel - wood, fuel briquettes, coal, but also the gas that is formed during combustion. This type of stove works according to the gas generator system.

How to make a brick pyrolysis oven? It is best to take ready-made design diagrams and drawings as a basis. It is quite difficult to make independent calculations.

Coal options

Despite the widespread use of various types of solid fuel boilers, many owners of private houses prefer to arrange brick stoves that run on coal.

And there are explanations for this:

When coal is burned in the combustion chamber, the temperature can rise to 1000 ° C. Hardware over time they burn out and collapse. Refractory bricks for a kiln will last much longer.
Brickwork withstands temperature changes better.
The stove accumulates heat well and gives it away long after the coal has died out.
Heating the room does not require a water heating system.

Brick coal furnaces have many advantages - photo

Since the combustion temperature of coal is higher than firewood, it is more profitable to use such products for heating houses.

Even the simplest brick oven, if folded correctly, can do more than just heat your home effectively. It will also create a special indoor microclimate that has a beneficial effect on human health.

The choice of models is very diverse. Everyone will be able to choose a product according to individual requirements and taking into account the specific parameters of the house. More information on this topic can be found in the video in this article: "Pyrolysis brick oven".

Brick ovens, even the smallest ones, have many advantages in front of metal heaters.

Iron stoves heat up very quickly, but they also cool quickly without warming up the air. Mini brick oven gives off warmth for a long time and keeps a comfortable temperature for several hours.

This heating structure can be made independently without the help of a professional stove-operator.

Diagrams of brick mini-ovens

Small ovens take up a small area, the size of their bases hesitate from 50 to 70 centimeters in width and up to 65-100 cm in length. Height heating facility is from 1.5 to 2.3 meters... A cooking deck, an oven, and a hot water tank are built into the oven. Stove-makers have also developed appliances intended only for heating the house.

Small heating structure

This is the simplest heating facility. Let's analyze the model in the following sizes:

width grounds - 51 cm;
length bases (depth) - 89 cm;
height — 238 cm.

A mini-stove is installed in the middle of the kitchen or against the wall. Optimal heating area - 20-35 meters... Interior partitions are erected around the stove, which allows heating both the kitchen and the adjacent room.

Inside the device are:

combustion chamber;
blew;
smoke channels leading to the chimney.

Furnace door mini ovens ( cast iron or glass) is chosen depending on the aesthetic preferences of the owners of the house. The heat-resistant glass door, through which you can see the firewood burning, gives the structure a similarity to a fireplace. In the middle and top ovens set two smoke dampers... There is one door for cleaning the channels. To build this model of the device you will need:

260 pieces bricks ceramic;
130 pieces of fireclay bricks;
grate (40x23 cm);
furnace (30x20 cm) and blower (20x14 cm) doors;
2 doors for cleaning holes ( 20x40 cm);
metal pre-furnace leaf (50x70 cm);
two sheets roofing material 60x100 mm;
sand and clay(or ready-made clay-sand mixture for masonry), clay-chamotte mixture.

Reference. The masonry mortar increases the volume of the appliance by the thickness of the seams.

Base and top mini-ovens are laid out with ceramic bricks on clay-sand mortar. Firebox put from fireclay bricks on a clay-fireclay mixture.

On the long side the base fits three and a half bricks, on the short - 2 standard bricks 25 cm long... The height of the masonry consists of 35 rows.

Small heating and cooking stove

This is a mini oven model for heating and cooking - a convenient and very compact construction. Optimal heated room area at sub-zero temperatures — 20—25 square meters .

The device has the following dimensions:

length bases (depth) - 64 cm;
width grounds - 51 cm;
height — 215 cm.

The structure is being erected in the kitchen. The device includes:

blew;
combustion chamber;
smoke channels leading to the chimney;
cooking deck;
niche for oven.

Cooking floor made of cast iron has a hole that is closed by a disc and a circle. There are also solid decking on sale. V niche for the oven have a metal oven or hot water tank with a tap. If a niche is left free, it serves to dry things. For the construction of the stove will need:

222 pieces of ceramic bricks;
grate (40x25 cm);
door for the furnace ( 20x20 cm);
door for the blower ( 14x14 cm);
brewhouse flooring (35x38 cm);
metal oven or water tank;
iron pre-furnace leaf (50x70 cm);
two doors for cleaning holes ( 20x14 cm);
two valves;
a piece of flat slate;
steel corner;
clay, sand or ready clay-sand mixture for masonry.

Before proceeding with the laying, preparatory work is carried out. They include the following steps:

choice the project;
selection and purchase materials;
purchase of metal stove parts;
preparation instrument, containers for solution;
preparation places for building a stove;
building mini ovens.

Project selection

On the Internet and in textbooks on stove business, there are ordinal schemes-drawings of a dozen mini-ovens.

The choice is great, but if a home craftsman has no experience at all, it is worth consulting with local professionals or with people who have successfully built such stoves. Choosing a device that you plan to build with your own hands, take into account several factors:

square heated room;
number heated rooms;
temperature air in winter;
frequency of use heating structure;
appointment mini ovens;
experience furnace construction and repair;
material expenses.

Photo 1. Before starting construction, it is very useful to model the appearance, dimensions and order of the future stove.

If planned Cook, the preferred option would be with a hob and oven. Need in hot water in winter and in the off-season, it will close the water tank in the niche. In it, by removing the removable tank, you can dry shoes and other things... If the house always has electricity or gas stove, choose the option of a stove without a cooking deck and an oven niche.

For regions where winter temperature descends below 20 degrees and keeps at this level for weeks, it will do large oven with heat shields... Mini stove Not recommended heat continuously more than two hours in a row.

For many people it matters design constructions. It can be tiled or laid out with embossed bricks.

Materials (edit)

For the selected mini-oven project, you will need high-quality brick. Should choose even brick of the 1st grade, uniform color, no chips or cracks.

For laying bricks, it is better for a home craftsman with no experience to choose ready mix in a hardware store. It is bred according to the manufacturer's instructions.

If a master creates a solution from individual ingredients, you should purchase sand and clay... The ratio of materials is determined empirically. The solution is scooped up with a spatula and its working surface is tilted 45-50 degrees... Masonry mass normal composition does not fall off the spatula in lumps and does not drain from it.

Tools

For work, you will need all the tools of the stove-maker and a table on which you can stand up when laying the upper rows. The list tools include:

spatulas: wide and narrow:
Master OK;
jointing to form beautiful seams;
trowel;
hammer a stove-maker with a flat back and a pickaxe;
mallet;
level long construction;
plumb line building;
wooden bar for the frame;
threads, fishing line, chalk for marking the base;
Bulgarian with a set of discs for cutting and grinding;
the rule aluminum.

Important! The room temperature when laying the stove and drying it should be positive (from plus 5 degrees).

To prepare the solution you need big tank... To stir the paste, you need wooden stirrer(paddle) and construction mixer.

Preparing the place for the oven

Before laying, mini-ovens are prepared in advance foundation... This is necessary because even the smallest device with a brick pipe weighs from 500 kg and more.

This pressure on the floorboards will deform the floor and stove walls. This can cause a fire on the roof and in the house.

There are several options for the construction of foundations. Building concrete base for mini oven includes next steps:

excavation of a pit depth 50-70 cm;
compacting the soil in the pit;
laying a layer of crushed stone ( 20-25 cm);
laying in a pit of sand ( layer 15-20 cm);
compaction of sand and gravel;
waterproofing the pit with roofing material: the joints are sealed with tar, bitumen mastic;
installation of steel reinforcement with mesh diameters no more than 8-10 cm;
pouring concrete and compacting it with a vibrating drill;
laying on dried concrete of two layers of roofing material for additional waterproofing.

Important! The stove is erected on a foundation that protrudes beyond its perimeter 10-20 cm... From the firebox side it is recommended leave 50-70 cm foundation in order to mount the pre-heating platform on it.

Masonry order

Masonry ceramic brick is carried out on a clay-sand mortar on a prepared foundation:

1st and 2nd rows... Solid masonry.

Photo 2. Layout of the masonry of the first rows for a small heating and cooking stove. This is followed by the chimney pipe.

3 row. Lay out the chamber for the blower. Install (on wire or metal strips) the blower door.
4 row. The laying of the blower continues and its door is reinforced. The ledge for the grate is laid out.
5 row. A grate is placed on the ledges freely, without mortar. Around him are left gaps of 5-7 mm.
6 row. A furnace door is installed in the portal of the furnace. It is secured by laying steel wire in the seams or using steel strips. The planks are also placed in the seams with mortar.
7-11 rows. Firebox masonry, final fixing of the door by laying wire (steel plates) in the seams on the mortar.

Photo 3. Installation and fastening of firebox and cleaning doors. With the help of a plumb line, the accuracy of the tub is monitored.

11a. Upon completion 11 rows a metal strip (or corner) is laid on which the cooking floor will rest. After that, the cooking floor is placed.
12-15 rows. Walls are erected around the cooking floor (cooking chamber), the chimney coming from the firebox is laid out.
15a. In order to have a roof made of non-combustible material above the cooking chamber, a sheet of flat slate is placed on it.
16 row. The vault of the cooking chamber is closed with solid masonry, and the chimney continues to be laid out.
17 row. Installation of a chimney cleaning door (on wire or steel strips).
Row 18. Securing the door.
19-22 rows. Laying according to the selected scheme.
23 row. Laying out the niche for the oven.
24 row. Oven wall masonry, oven installation. Stripes are placed on the bottom of the chamber around the perimeter asbestos cardboard... The oven is wrapped with asbestos rope (for greater contact with brickwork and heat accumulation) and finally installed in a niche.
24-27 rows... Brickwork is being erected around the oven.
Row 28. Installation of a second door for cleaning the flue duct.
Row 29. Installation of a valve above the smoke channel.
30 row. Laying according to the selected scheme.
31 row. Installation of a second valve above the smoke channel.
32 row. Completion of the masonry.

Besides, 32 row is the basis for the construction chimney... It can be brick or metal.

Photo 4. An example of a finished brick mini-oven with decorative trim... The structure is not intended for cooking, but it will warm the house well.

Problems when building a mini-oven with your own hands

Amateur stoves out of inexperience commit mistakes which then lead to problems. Let's consider the most common cases:

Masonry ovens with deviation from the project... As a result, there is no normal draft in the smoke ducts, the walls heat up unevenly. The solution to the problem will be parsing the stove and laying according to proven schemes.
Oven laying "by eye", without using a level, frame, plumb lines, rules. The device tilts, the center of gravity shifts, and the device collapses faster during operation.

Heating a house is the primary factor in a person's comfortable living in the autumn-winter time. Despite other options for heating the house, there are no fewer people who want to make a brick hearth.

Skillful home owners easily lay a classic brick oven with their own hands, the masonry technology is described in articles and books. But with inaccurate execution of one detail, the operation of the hearth becomes uncomfortable. There is smoke in the room or there is a danger of fire. It is better to invite a professional stove-maker who will fold the stove according to the rules.

The standard design consists of parts:

foundation or concrete base of the house;
housings with technological parts;
chimney for removing combustion products.

Brick ovens for homes have split over the centuries by way of operation... Among them are:

Heating centers are built only to heat the dwelling, they do not perform other functions. It is impossible to heat water or use such a brick structure for cooking. The design diagram is simplified, the service life is measured in decades, but the use is rare. In recent years, after the installation of water circuits, such heating foci of a brick house have not been found.

Stoves arranged in the house for culinary purposes... Sometimes slabs are built in open areas, verandas or summer kitchens... The design is selected so that heat is generated only in the area of the hob. Brick hobs are installed only in rooms with organized heating or in places where heating is not required.

Due to the increased functionality, the owners are in demand for a heating and cooking model of a brick hearth. Flue ducts in the design of the furnace receive the heat of combustion to heat the room. The hostess prepares food on the hob. Sometimes an oven is arranged in a brick hearth for baking. The shutters regulate the degree of heating, and during the summer period the oven is only used for cooking. These dampers determine the degree of smoke extraction in the event of external pressure surges.

BBQ and BBQ are arranged in summer in open natural areas in front of the house or under a canopy. Uncomplicated brickwork with a chimney in the form of a bell, the walls of the brazier simultaneously act as a support for the grate. The owners sometimes arrange a full-fledged kitchen in such a place, supply water and make sewer drains.

The brick oven building for the bath is arranged as a heating mass producing dry steam. When laying, trifles must not be neglected, shortcomings and inaccuracies will lead to incomplete combustion of fuel. Incorrectly fitted bricks pose the risk of releasing toxic, carbon monoxide or carcinogenic gases.

Russian stove becomes the soul of the house. It is impossible to argue with this concept. Old dishes are prepared in the hearth section of the hearth, which cannot be cooked in a metal oven. In addition to heating the adjacent rooms and cooking on the stove, the Russian stove is equipped with a lounger for sleeping after the end of the firebox. On such warm couch in ancient times, colds and diseases of the supporting apparatus were treated.

What does oven breath mean?

Warming up, the walls emit wet vapors into the air space of the room, while cooling down, they are taken back. Speaking of a healthy climate in a house with a brick oven, this property is implied. Comfort threshold in the house is reduced in comparison with other heating boilers to a temperature of 18 ° C. Even with it, the relative humidity approaches the standard value and people feel comfortable, which cannot be said about other heating centers.

Heating with water heat carriers raises the threshold of a comfortable temperature to 20-22 ºС, electric and gas heating make this indicator one more degree higher. A brick oven for a house with a heat transfer coefficient of 50% is more cost-effective than metal hearths with useful work in 70%.

Requirements for the operation of a brick oven

economical heat transfer and complete thermal conductivity;
operation for tens of years;
stand-alone model;
combination of two or three functions;
warming up the room with the creation of a comfortable microclimate;
simplified design;
attractive appearance that does not spoil the aesthetics of the room.

Unlike the metal model, the red brick hearth accumulates heat and releases it slowly. The duration of intensive heating of the house continues within 15-20 hours... The smoke is removed through ceramic brick chimneys by natural draft. Air enters through the room where the stove is installed and ventilation is not neglected in it.

Heat transfer without residue is ensured by the complex structure of the smoke channels. To stop the draft after the end of the heating process, close the damper on the main pipe. Dry hardwood logs are considered suitable firewood. After combustion, ash is formed, which enters the receiving compartment for further cleaning.

For the house to be heated everywhere the hearth is built in the center of the dwelling, and the rooms are arranged in a cruciform order. In each of them there is a part of the furnace coarse for heating.

There are no difficulties in operating the furnace. In addition to the fascinating kindling, the mood of the owner is created by the smell of haze escaping from the hearth or the contemplation of dancing tongues of flame on the wood.

Household waste and residues must not be used for fuel building materials. Decoration Materials emit many substances harmful to the body. Decomposition products from burning materials are released by heating and accumulate on the walls of the furnace and chimney, making periodic cleaning difficult.

The disadvantages of a brick hearth include:

the constant need to clean the chimney pipe twice a year;
the frequency of manually adding fuel.

Oven positions

The device of the furnace according to the rules means adherence to the principles of choosing a material, determining the design of the hearth. The construction of a furnace from materials with a lack of quality will lead to a premature violation of the integrity and the need to rework the brick furnace structure. An inexperienced owner, a stove-maker, whiles away the evenings with a smoky taste, or even lives in an unheated room.

Arrangement of a heavy kiln with a number of bricks above 500 pieces or with a heavy red brick chimney is carried out on a separate foundation. The stove is placed on the base of the house if it is made in the form of a solid slab. A separate basement of the hearth is built without connection with the strip foundation of the housing.

The construction of only a non-heavy hob is allowed on the floor, with pre-reinforced joists. Reinforced thermal insulation and a heating shield are made under it. If the house is being built together with the stove, then the place is chosen according to the construction scheme. In an already operating house, the new stove is oriented to the location of the central chimney. The device of the new chimney is made so that the beams of the roofing structure are not sawn. The distance to the nearest wooden roof rafter is at least one meter.

Small foci placed on a wooden floor with insulating layers. But the decision is made only in exceptional versions, since the stove is built for decades, and the wooden base fails before the brick stove hearth.

The chimney pipe rises above the roof surface by 50 cm and higher. This distance increases as the chimney approaches the roof ridge.

How to decide on materials

For the laying of the furnaces, quarry sand is used, the use of river and sea is limited due to the hewn edges of the sand grains by water waves. And quarry sand consists of grains of sand with ragged edges that adhere to the rest of the materials in the solution. Before use, the sand must be sieved and washed with water.

Furnaces are laid I'm ceramic red brick, silicate is not used due to hygroscopicity. Brick is chosen for laying the combustion chamber and chimney top grade red, no cracks or blotches with a ringing sound when tapped.

The masonry of the secondary partitions inside the furnace body is carried out with bricks of the second grade of a faded pink color and a dull echo. Burnt material Brown used for the construction of foundations, but the ovens themselves are not built from it.

Stones are also used obtained from the dismantling of buildings. The masonry of the front surface is not performed from specimens on which soot has adhered. After whitewashing, such a surface gives out black streaks throughout the year. It is undesirable to use bricks after laying on cement or lime mortar, even cleaned ones.

The solution is prepared using clay, which acts as a binder. Clay is divided into skinny, medium and oily grades. For stove masonry, average material values are used that maintain critical temperatures during operation.

Preparation of mortar for masonry

Clay, which acts as an astringent material, is not used on its own in the solution. The furnace is built on a clay composition with the addition of sand and cement. It does not crack and does not let smoke through when the heat is in the oven. The seams are made up to three millimeters thick; for such masonry, thirty liters of solution are consumed per hundred stones. For plasticity, one kilogram of cement and a glass of salt are added to a bucket of mud.

Water gently mix with clay and leave to get wet for two weeks, occasionally stirring the solution. Sand and cement are added after the expiration date. The amount of sand is determined by the fat content of the resulting solution. The skinny one will drain from the shovel and leave no trace, while the fat one will stick in a lump and will not budge. Achieve average performance. Plastering is done cement-sand mortar with the addition of lime.

The stores sell ready-made masonry mortars in the form of a dry composition for the device of furnaces. According to their characteristics, they are not inferior to those prepared on their own, they organically balance the components and additives. If there is no time for the complex preparation of clay mortar, they use improved dry construction mixtures.

Furnace foundation

By design, it is built as a monolithic solid, strip, prefabricated reinforced concrete or made of bricks. Width exceeds the base of the oven on the sides by 5-7 cm... The constructed base is insulated with two layers of roofing material or coated with two layers of bitumen mastic. Asbestos is laid on top, then a metal sheet, completed with a layer of cardboard or construction felt impregnated with a liquid cement-sand mortar.

After that, they begin to build the furnace, checking each brick according to a previously developed scheme.

Using a brick wood-burning stove to heat a private house justified by many advantages... The owners of such devices felt the comfort and coziness in houses with stoves. Saving money and an environmentally friendly atmosphere play a significant role. The future belongs to such ovens.

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