The apricot withers what to do. Apricot dried up: why and what to do

, today we will talk about apricots diseases to which they are susceptible.

From this article you will learn about diseases such as:

moniliosis apricot;
valsa mushroom;
bacterial spotting;
we will tell you about the causes of these diseases and methods of prevention and control of them.

Apricot diseases are very insidious and often, gardeners write off the loss of the crop, with one feature of this fruit - to bloom at a time when the daily temperature is not yet stable, and frosts at this time are quite expected. Frosts, as a rule, are attributed to crop losses, but is everything so simple, and is it worth only complaining about the oddities of the weather when your harvest is almost completely lost?

The reason that your crop was lost, perhaps, is the Monilia mushroom. The disease can manifest itself in the form of a monilial burn or in the form of gray rot. Moniliosis apricot a very dangerous disease, in spring it, as a rule, manifests itself in the form of a monilial burn, it is this disease that is often mistaken for the consequence of frost, because of it, many gardeners are left without a crop of apricots.

Moniliosis symptoms:

One of the first signs of apricot moniliosis disease is a change in the color of the petal to brown and its further drying, but note the leaves do not fall off, but continue to grow on the tree. The next stage is the drying and wilting of the leaves, and young branches and shoots are also amenable to this process. Thick branches are covered with cracks in the bark, the appearance of the tree becomes miserable, as if it were exposed to fire, hence the origin of the name of the disease - monilialburn.

Moniliosis methods of control and prevention.

Often, gardeners who are faced with this problem make a hasty decision to cut down the apricot, but this does not need to be done, the infected branches should be cut off, the tree rejuvenated, as a rule, such actions are quite enough so that the new branches are healthy, but so that the disease does not return , the plant needs to be protected.

Prevention, protection of apricot, not difficult, you need to prune diseased branches in time, cuts, glossing over with garden pitch or oil paint... You also need to remove dried fruits, from a tree, in the fall or in early spring... Also, in order to avoid the disease, you need to do the whitewashing of the tree, lime with copper sulfate. Also, frost is a good ally in the fight against moniliosis disease, because at temperatures below -20C, the fungus dies.

Valsa mushroom.

One more fungal disease, which does not spare apricots, this fungus is valsa - an infectious disease, it occurs when an infection enters the wounds on the apricot tree.

Valsa mushroom symptoms: the disease usually manifests itself in the form of knobby orange cork growths.

Valsa proflactkia mushroom : in order to avoid contamination of the apricot with this disease, it is not recommended to prune the tree during its dormant period, you also need to keep the soil in a well-drained state, in the fight against the disease valsa mushroom use a fungicidal spray.

Vertical wilting, in herticillosis apricot.

Another fungal disease of apricot. This time it is a soil fungus, it is underground, and not only apricot, but also many other trees and plants suffer from it.

Verticillosis symptoms: The disease manifests itself as wilting, yellowing, and death of the tree. The leaves on the tree turn yellow, curl, the process starts from the bottom of the tree, and over time, green leaves will remain only at the top of the tree.

Verticillosis methods of struggle: the disease is treatable only in the early stages of development, if you managed to identify the symptoms, before the whole tree was infected, you need to spray the tree with one of the following drugs: foundationol, previcur, vitaros, topsin-M, the solution should be 0.2% th.

Bacterial spot of apricot.

Dangerous disease apricot, it is distributed in all climatic zones where apricot grows.

bacterial spotting symptoms: the first signs of illness bacterial spot apricot, is the appearance of small, dark, watery, spots on the leaves. Gradually, these spots become angular and begin to dry out and turn yellow. On fruits, the disease manifests itself as dark spots that gradually increase in diameter and brownish.

Bacterial spot control methods and prevention : To avoid infection with this disease, it is necessary to carry out crop rotation with those plants that are not susceptible to this disease, it is also worth eliminating all weeds near the tree. When planting, you need to use non-infected seeds, spray the plants with copper sulfate.

Clasterosporium disease (perforated spot).

Symptoms: if stone fruits are affected by perforated spots, the first sign will be the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, then these spots begin to die off. Spots also appear on the shoots, they crack, gum flows through these cracks.

The disease manifests itself most often in autumn and spring.

How to fight: As soon as you find the affected shoots, they must be sawed off and burned, the cut sites are covered with garden pitch, it is necessary to have time to carry out these procedures before the leaves begin to fall off.

Already after leaf fall, and in early spring on the buds, the tree must be sprayed with 4% Bordeaux liquid, it can be replaced with 1% copper sulfate solution. In the case of a too humid summer, treatment is carried out every 2 weeks. You can also use a drug called "chorus", it is diluted in proportions of 3 grams per 10 liters of water, it is safe for humans, and spraying is carried out in the pink bud phase.

Viral diseases of apricot:

Smallpox plum on apricot.

Symptoms: Unfortunately, plumpox affects other stone fruits with the same success. Indented stripes appear on the fruits, the pulp near them becomes dry. Fruit ripening occurs faster than the norm, however, the taste of such a crop will be very low.

Ring pox.

Signs: They can be found on foliage, even before the onset of the summer heat. The growth of shoots and leaves slows down, and their shape may be incorrect or distorted. After the fruits are ripe, swollen spots appear on them, red with a brown tint. Such apricots fall off prematurely without having time to ripen.

Both types of smallpox enter the plant during grafting or budding. Therefore, the main thing during these procedures is to adhere to all the rules, and then this ailment will not threaten your crops.

Viral wilting.

How it manifests itself: The most recognizable symptom is the simultaneous flowering and the appearance of young leaves. In summer, spots appear on them, light green in color, the leaf itself becomes denser and thicker, and begins to curl.

Fruits also suffer from viral wilting. Near the stone, the pulp begins to acquire a brown color, gradually it dies off. The tree can also die due to this ailment. Infection occurs during budding or grafting.

Tape mosaic.

In the spring, when the leaves begin to bloom, a disease called tape mosaic can be seen on the apricot. Stripes appear on perfectly healthy, at first glance, leaves yellow color... Further, the stripes grow into a pattern, and the fabrics gradually die off.

Fight against all viral diseases of the apricot.

Use healthy seedlings when planting, it is best to buy them from specialty stores, or official gardeners.
The tops of the shoots must be grafted.
Conduct timely pest control.
Application of complex fertilizers on time and in suitable proportions.
When pruning and grafting a tree, you must adhere to all the rules. After the procedure, treat the cut site with garden pitch, and disinfect the tool before starting to work with another tree. You can warm up the instrument to a temperature of + 50C, so you kill most of the harmful viruses.
Coat the tree trunk with a mixture of lime and copper sulfate.

It is not at all difficult to carry out procedures that will significantly reduce the risk of apricot diseases in your garden. The main thing is not to be lazy, and after each procedure, treat the plant with special substances, disinfect hands and tools after work, and everything will be in order. We wish you the best of luck.

Apricot for high yields and high-quality fruits requires some attention from the gardener. Noticing a disease or the appearance of a pest in time, you can quickly intervene and eliminate the problem. What are the diseases of apricot, what are their causes. What pests can attack it, how to prevent it and how to fight it - these are topical issues when growing apricots.

Diseases of apricot trees and their treatment

Apricot is, at first glance, a thermophilic and demanding plant. Often exposed to various fungal and infectious diseases that can affect all parts of the plant - bark, leaves, flowers, fruits. You need to know the enemy in person in order to effectively deal with him, or even better, not even let him near the apricot trees. Applying preventive measures on time and competently, it is possible (and necessary), in general, to avoid the manifestation of diseases and not lead to treatment.

Diseases of the apricot bark and the fight against them

Various fungi can settle on and under the bark of apricot, causing diseases such as cytosporosis (stem rot), gum decay, and cracking of the bark. And also mosses and lichens can settle on the bark.

Why does the bark crack on the apricot

Sometimes cracks appear on the bark of the apricot. This may be due to the following reasons:

Regardless of the reasons for cracks in the bark (with the exception of fungal and cancerous diseases), the treatment method is the same.

The site of damage is carefully cleaned with a knife and a steel brush, removing all damaged bark until healthy, green tissue appears. The same applies to wood. This operation can be carried out at any time of the year, except for the period of active sap flow (spring).
Leave the wound alone for a while to dry.
Disinfect the wound with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or copper sulfate. Other antifungal medications can be used.
Treat the prepared area with special healing putties.
- Garden pitch based on wood resin or natural wax. Avoid formulations with refined petroleum products (gasoline, kerosene, tar, coal tar, etc.), they can do more harm than good.
- Garden putty BlagoSad based on lanolin (fat obtained from sheared sheep's wool).
- Self-prepared putty made from equal parts clay and mullein. Such a putty should not be used in hot, dry seasons, since after drying, the clay will absorb moisture from the bark.

When cleaning a crack, do not be afraid to cut off some of the healthy tissue. They will overgrow. But rotten and dead remains of bark and (or) wood, accidentally left in the wound, will be a source of infection and a focus of a new round of development of the disease.

White spots appeared on the trunk of the apricot

Most likely, it is a lichen. Lichens usually grow on old trees, although they can also appear on relatively young ones. The bark of a tree for these organisms is only a platform for living, they receive moisture and minerals for development from the atmosphere with rains, fogs and dust.

Lichen more often settles on old trees

There are two opposing points of view about whether to remove lichens.

One group of gardeners and specialists of various qualifications claims that lichens do not bring any harm to trees, and also testify to the cleanliness of the ecology in the place of growth. And scraping them from a tree inevitably damages the bark and causes harm. Therefore, they should not be deleted.
Another, no less numerous group, expresses the exact opposite opinion. Lichens growing on the bark prevent the penetration of air into the interior, create foci of high humidity and conditions for the appearance and development of fungal and viral diseases. And also scabbards and other pests can hide under them. And therefore, lichens need to be removed.

For those who decide to remove the lichen that has appeared, it is recommended to do this as carefully as possible, using a sharp knife and nylon brushes. After removal, the surface of the bark should be washed with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate or other antiseptic. Whitewashing trunks in autumn with a lime mortar significantly reduces the likelihood of lichens and mosses.

But it is not at all necessary that the white bloom that appears on the bark is lichen. Perhaps this is the appearance of some kind of fungal disease. Distinctive feature will be the fact that the fungus usually affects simultaneously different parts of the plant - leaves, flowers, ovaries, fruits, shoots. Not all at the same time, but different. And if any fungus was diagnosed, timely treatment of it modern methods and drugs usually bring positive results.

Fungal diseases of apricot

Many plants are susceptible to fungal diseases and apricot, unfortunately, is no exception.

A list of the main types of this class of diseases:

Clasterosporium disease (perforated spot).
Moniliosis.
Cytosporosis.
Curly leaves.
Verticillosis.
Fusarium.
Scab, etc.

The methods of combating various fungal diseases, preventive measures and the drugs used are in many ways similar.

Fight against clotterosporia

Clasterosporium disease is a fungal disease that affects all stone fruits. Apricots and peaches are particularly and often affected by this disease. Another name for the disease is perforated spotting. The pathogen hibernates in fallen leaves, the upper layer of the soil, in the bark.

The disease begins and proceeds as follows:

Small dark spots appear on apricot leaves.
Developing, the dots turn into rather large, round spots of red-brown, brown color.
Within two weeks, the inner part of the spots dries up and falls out, and holes form.
Affected leaves turn yellow and fall off.

In addition to leaves, buds and shoots are also affected. Affected kidneys do not open and fall off. Lesions on the bark of the shoots look the same as on the leaves - growing spots, the formation of holes in the bark, causing the release of gum. In advanced cases, the tree may die.

Photo gallery: clotterosporia

The best measure to combat clasterosporiosis is prevention Holes form on the affected leaves, after which they turn yellow and crumble.

The fight against this disease first of all begins with prevention.

Fallen leaves are collected and burned.
Sick shoots are cut out (not forgetting to lubricate the cut sites with garden varnish or putty) and also burned.
In late autumn, trunk circles are dug up.
In late autumn and (or) early spring, during the absence of sap flow, they are treated with a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid or copper sulfate.
They try to use varieties that are relatively resistant to fungal diseases (Red-cheeked, Pineapple, Hungarian best, etc.).
During the season, it is advisable to spray trees with biofungicides (biological means of fighting fungi). Quadris and Horus have proven themselves well. They can process trees even during the fruiting period (Quadris for 5 days, Horus for 7 days before picking berries). Due to the addiction of the fungus to the drugs, treatments are carried out no more than three times per season each. The interval is two weeks.

Table: organic preparations for combating clasterosporia and other diseases

Apricot moniliosis, how to save a tree

Moniliosis or monilial burn is a fungal disease that affects the leaves, flowers, and shoots of a tree. Spores of the fungus overwinter in fallen leaves, shoots, and on the bark. Primary infestation usually occurs in spring, during flowering. Spores with the wind, and more often with the help of bees, fall on a blossoming flower, through a pistil they get inside and further into leaves and shoots. The first to curl up and die are flowers, then the leaves and shoots. The ends of the branches turn black, and the leaves also turn black and hang. Outwardly, the plant looks as if burnt.

With spring infection with moniliosis, the flowers are first affected, then the leaves and shoots of the apricot

An inexperienced gardener may mistake the spring symptoms of moniliosis infection for frostbite or excessive spring drug treatment.

The second form of damage manifests itself in the summer, in the form of gray rot, affecting fruits, leaves and bark. The difference from other similar diseases is the chaotic arrangement of black dots on the surface of the fruit.

Preventive and therapeutic measures:

Removal and destruction of fallen leaves, as well as affected fruits.
Late autumn loosening of near-trunk circles.
Cutting out affected shoots with a part of healthy wood 15–20 cm long or “under the ring”.
Late autumn and early spring treatment with a 3% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture.
Before swelling of the kidneys, a single treatment with DNOC or Nitrafen.
Regular treatment during the season with biofungicides (Horus, Quadris).
Avoiding waterlogging, dampness.
Avoiding thickening of plantings and crowns.

Video: moniliosis

Apricot protection from pests

Apricots, like other fruit plants, can be attacked by various insects - moths, leafworms, aphids, ticks. In addition to insects, rodents - mice, hares - bring great harm to plants.

How to save an apricot if the bark is eaten by mice

First you need to determine the scale of the damage, and then choose the option of actions, which are very few.

If the bark is nibbled completely and deeply, then, most likely, nothing can be done. You can try cutting the trunk almost to the ground. If you are lucky, a new shoot will grow from the root, which will become a new tree.
If the bark is nibbled in a circle on low height, there are two ways:
- Bridge inoculation.
- Bark transplant.
If you are lucky and the cambial layer of the mouse has not been touched, then you just need to wrap the damaged part of the trunk with electrical tape, stretch film or bandage, placing sorrel leaves. In the fall, the bandage is removed.

Cambium is a layer between bark and wood, which is a conductor of sap.

What is cambium is easier to show than to tell

How to inoculate with a bridge

Step-by-step instruction.

Harvesting cuttings. Of course, it is better to prepare them in the fall, but then it was not yet known about the attack of rodents. Therefore, most likely, they will have to be cut in the spring, as soon as it became known about the trouble, before the start of sap flow. The variety of the donor tree does not matter. The length of the cuttings should be 10-15 cm longer than the length of the damaged area, the number of buds is also not important, they will still need to be removed. How larger diameter trunk, the more cuttings need to be grafted.
T-shaped incisions are made on the bark of the tree on one and the other side of the wound with a sharp knife.
On the cuttings, oblique cuts are made on both sides and inserted into the cuts so that the cambium layers are combined with each other. The cuttings should be slightly curved in an arc.
The grafting sites are lubricated with garden varnish or putty and tightly wrapped with electrical tape, fum tape, etc.
The crown is cut by 30%.

In this way, you can save a tree gnawed by mice.

How the bark is transplanted

Quite an exotic way, but sometimes it is used. For him, you need a donor tree (it must be an apricot, you can wild), which is not a pity to donate.

From suitable material(thin cardboard, film, etc.) cut the template to fit the damage.
A patch is cut out from the bark of the donor tree according to the template, which is carefully removed and quickly applied to the wound.
The patch is firmly fixed with a tape, you can use small carnations.
The area of operation is coated with garden varnish or putty, wrapped with twine and roofing felt.
The crown is pruned.

Apricot root pests

Not many insects prefer to feed on the roots of trees, but still, sometimes there are such lovers. Most often, the roots of young seedlings can suffer from pests, which the larvae of beetles and weevils that winter in upper layers soils of near-trunk circles. If you dig up the soil under the trees in late autumn, turning over the layers, the larvae will be on the surface and die from the cold.

The fight against the beetles

There are a lot of varieties of beetles. It is a flying beetle ranging in size from 8–12 mm (April beetle) to 35–38 mm (marble beetle). The most famous and well-known to everyone - Chafer. Beetles are omnivorous and, if not dealt with, can cause great damage to many plants in the garden and vegetable garden.

Beetles feed on plant roots

Control methods:

Early spring preventive treatment with insecticides (chemical insect control agents) - decis, nitrafen, etc.
Diazinon and preparations based on it are introduced into the soil for digging at the end of May-June, when the larvae are still in the upper layer of the soil. On 1 m 2 spend 10-20 g of Bazudin or 5-10 g of 10% Diazonin. The drug works for 20 days, does not accumulate in plants.
The drug Marshal, which has a prolonged effect (up to 17 months), is very effective. But, due to its high toxicity, it should be used carefully and only in critical situations.
You can place a small, warm, damp pile of humus or compost next to the tree. The larvae will settle there with pleasure - all that remains is to collect and destroy them in time.

Weevil control

Weevils are small (4–6 mm) beetles with an elongated proboscis.

The weevil eats young leaves, buds, ovaries in early spring

There are many varieties of this insect. They can overwinter in the bark, fallen leaves, upper layers of the soil. In spring they feed on young leaves, buds, flowers, fruits. At the beginning and middle of summer, eggs are laid in the fruits, from which the larvae hatch. Some species of weevils lay their eggs in the soil and the hatched larvae actively feed on young roots.

Weevil larvae hatched in the soil feed on young roots

How to fight:

In early spring, when the weevils emerged from their shelters and settled in the crown of the apricot, you can collect them by hand. To do this, in the morning, when the air temperature has not risen above + 5–7 ° C and the beetles are sleeping, a cloth or film is spread under the tree, on which the insects are gently shaken off. Then they are destroyed.
Before the buds swell, the tree is treated with insecticides.
After flowering, if necessary, can be treated with drugs such as Fufanon, Actellik, etc. 20 days before harvesting, the processing is stopped.
During the laying period, diazonin-based soil preparations can be used.
In the fall, the fallen leaves are removed and destroyed, the damaged bark is cleaned, and with the onset of cold weather they dig up the soil.

Apricot treatment for diseases and pests

To prevent the occurrence various diseases and pest attacks, carry out preventive apricot treatments. As a rule, the first treatment is carried out in late winter or early spring, before bud break.

At this time, the tree is treated with one of the following drugs:

DNOC is a complex, potent drug for combating fungi, mites and insects. They treat the tree with it once every three years. Apply a 1% solution at a temperature of 5 ° C, but not higher than 13 ° C.
Nitrafen is a drug close to DNOC in action. For 10 liters of water add 200-300 g of the drug. One-time processing.
Decis is a broad spectrum issecticide. Dissolve 50 g in 5 liters of water. Consumption from 2 to 5 liters per tree. Re-processing is possible if necessary.
And others are similar.

In spring and summer, especially after rains, it is advisable to treat with antifungal agents - Horus, Quadris, Fufanon, etc.

If, despite the prevention, the apricot has undergone any disease or pest attack, act on the basis of the situation in accordance with the recommendations for a particular case.

Frequently asked questions by gardeners

In the process of growing an apricot, the gardener often faces various problems and questions, a significant part of which is presented below.

Why apricot does not bloom

This is a fairly common problem due to several reasons.

Features of the variety. Some apricot varieties begin to bloom 5-7 years after planting. Under unfavorable conditions, these periods may increase. It may not be time for flowering yet.
Wrong choice of landing site. A tree growing in the shade will begin to bloom and bear fruit only when its crown rises towards the sun. And it will bloom precisely on those branches that are illuminated by the sun.
Unsuitable soil. Apricot will not bloom on acidified soils, it needs a slightly alkaline or neutral environment.
Groundwater flooding, even short-term, harms fruiting. With constant flooding, the tree will die.
Freezing of fruit buds, which can occur during prolonged winter thaws or spring frosts.

Why do flowers fall from a blooming apricot

Either sick or unfertilized flowers fall.

With spring infection with moniliosis, as noted above, flowers are primarily affected and killed.

If the apricot variety is not self-fertile, then the reason for the fall of flowers may be:

The absence of a pollinator tree in sufficient proximity (up to 100 m).
There is a pollinator tree, but for some reason it does not bloom.
Unfavorable weather (low temperature, strong wind), which reduces the activity of bees and other insects.

Why do apricots rot on a tree

This can come from improper care and disease.

Why apricot does not grow

We planted an apricot, but it doesn't grow. Possible reasons:

Inconsistency of the selected variety with the growing region. Perhaps a seedling for the southern regions was planted in a more northern one.
Late or autumn planting. It is necessary to plant the seedling at rest, until the buds swell.
Inadequate seedling:
- More than two years old.
- Grown when oversaturated with nitrogen fertilizers.
- Bad root system.
Close occurrence groundwater and flooding.
Insufficient pruning at planting resulting in poor growth. The weakened plant goes into winter, which it will not survive.

The ends of the apricot branches turned black in the spring

This phenomenon has two reasons:

The branches are frozen. Trim to healthy wood and treat with garden varnish or putty.
Infection with moniliosis. Cut the branches to 15–20 cm of healthy wood or “under the ring”. Treatment of the disease is described above.

The branches dry on the apricot after flowering

Most likely, this is the same moniliosis.

Why do flowers rust on the apricot tree

If brown spots (rust) appear on the flowers, this may be due to several reasons:

The onset of a fungal disease, usually moniliosis.
Attack of insects, primarily weevil.
Freezing.
Burns from an overdose of certain chemicals when spraying (for example, copper sulfate).

Why apricot does not bear fruit

Apricot fruiting does not occur in such cases:

The apricot does not bloom. Considered above.
It blooms, but the ovaries are not formed and the flowers crumble. Considered above.
It blooms, ovaries are formed, but they crumble.
- Fruit has formed on the unpolished tree (this is possible). But such fruits are defective, the embryo of the seed does not develop in them, and without its absence the fruit does not develop, which as a result crumbles.
- The abnormally warm January contributed to the awakening of the kidneys. As a result, the pistils were damaged, which caused the fruit to shatter.
- The tree had given a bountiful harvest in the previous year, was exhausted, but did not receive sufficient nourishment to restore vitality.

Apricot is not the most capricious representative of horticultural crops. With proper agricultural technology, preventive and sanitary measures are carried out in due time, the gardener rarely has to deal with the treatment of diseases. No apricot care required special efforts and is quite accessible to both an experienced and a novice gardener. And modern, low-toxic drugs will relieve the invasion of pests and allow you to get a decent harvest of sweet and healthy berries.

Apricot tree in the photo

In most cases, trunks and skeletal branches break off under the weight of the first wet snow, ice or large snow cover. This also often happens when transporting or planting trees. Therefore, from the fall, it is better to tie young trees with twine or rope and periodically shake off the snow from them. The first time after planting or transplanting, the plants should be tied to a support, this will protect against bending and fractures of the trunks.

Any mechanical damage, frost cracks and cuts of trunks and branches should be disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulfate and covered with oil paint on natural drying oil. It is in the places where the cuts are made that the wood cracks and dies, and the branches and trees gradually dry out. In years with frosty winters, when damage is possible low temperatures and sun-frost burns in the spring, it is necessary to immediately cover the longitudinal cracks in the bark with a solution of clay or oil paint in the spring. This is necessary so that the exposed wood is covered with callus tissue and does not die off.

Fungal diseases of apricot and the fight against them (with photo)

Fungal diseases of apricot are very common and dangerous. Further, some apricot diseases are considered in detail and the fight against them using garden tools available to everyone.

See what diseases and pests of apricot look like in the photo, which shows their typical symptoms and signs of presence:

In the photo Brown spot of apricot

The causative agent is a mushroom Gnomonia erythrostoma (Fr.) Auers, f. armeniaka , has a conidial stage - Septoria pallens Sacc. Spotting appears on leaves, petioles, less often on fruits. The spots are initially inconspicuous, vague, yellow, numerous, gradually they turn brown, dry out in the central part, and bright yellow outlines appear along the edges. Necrotic tissue thickens, becomes folded, often cracks. Affected leaves curl up, dry out prematurely and often remain on the branches. The spots on the fruits are brown, dryish, cracking, the affected pulp dries to the stone. Affected green ovaries crumble, and more ripe fruits are underdeveloped and have an ugly shape. Sporulation develops on the affected tissues, and by autumn numerous black dots of small fruiting bodies appear. Spotting causes premature drying and leaf fall, which negatively affects the winter hardiness of trees and their productivity.

Look at the manifestations of this apricot disease in the photo, where you can see characteristic signs damage to parts of the tree:

Control measures. Spraying trees before bud break and immediately after flowering with Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (HOM, Abiga-Peak). With a strong spread of the disease, spraying is carried out in the summer and at the beginning of autumn with the drug chorus, taking into account the waiting times for this drug. Timely pruning of dried branches with covering the cuts with oil paint, removing affected plant residues.

Look at these apricot diseases and the fight against them in the photo, which illustrates the symptoms and agrotechnical protection measures:

Diseases of apricot fruits and their treatment (with photo)

The causative agent of macrosporious spotting as a disease of apricot fruits is the fungus Macrosporium sp. The disease manifests itself at the end of summer, when a wide, blurry strip of red-violet color forms along the edges of the leaves. Necrotic tissue brightens in separate areas and sporulation of the pathogen fungus develops in them in the form of a brown plaque. When ripe, the fruits soften and are affected by brown blotches of plaque. Physiologically old leaves before leaf fall are affected. The infection persists in the affected leaves.

Look at the apricot diseases and their treatment in the photo, which illustrates the characteristic symptoms and agricultural techniques for tree care:

Control measures the same as against brown spot, or gnomoniosis.

Diseases of seedlings and new shoots in the apricot tree and their treatment (with photo)

Powdery mildew of apricot (photo)
On the picture powdery mildew hits the plum

Powdery mildew- this is a disease of new shoots of apricot, its causative agent is a mushroom Podosphaera tridactyla (Wallr.) De bar at. The disease in new shoots of apricots also affects plums, sometimes cherries and cherries. The disease manifests itself mainly on the leaves, less often on the bark of young shoots, with a delicate white cobweb bloom. On leaves with apricot tree disease, plaque is located in the form of separate spots on both sides of the leaf.

With the course of the disease of apricot seedlings, the plaque thickens, darkens, small spherical fruiting bodies of the wintering stage of the fungus are formed in it. Affected leaves become slightly wavy and yellowish-red in color. Young shoots at the sites of mycelium development turn brown, thicken, may be slightly deformed, and fruiting bodies of the wintering stage of the fungus are formed in the bark.

With a strong manifestation of the apricot disease and the absence of treatment, premature leaf fall, poor ripening of shoots, weakening of trees and a decrease in their frost resistance are observed. The infection persists in the affected shoots and in the fallen affected plant debris.

Control measures. Pruning affected dried shoots, collecting and burning fallen leaves. With a strong manifestation of the disease, the trees are sprayed during the period of swelling of the kidneys with the drug thiovit Jet. Immediately after flowering, you can carry out treatment with preparations of rayok or fast.

Look at the diseases of apricots and their treatment in the photo, where you can see the signs of pathology and how to deal with it:

Look at the photo of apricot pests so that you can timely recognize the signs of their presence on the site:

In the photo gall midge eye

Gall midge ocellar Thomasiniana oculiperda Rubs. - a small yellowish-gray mosquito 1.2 mm long, with six long thin legs. Larva 2-2.5 mm long, initially white, later dark red. The larvae overwinter in the soil at a depth of 5 cm; in May, mosquitoes pupate there and soon fly out. Females lay eggs on the buds at the sites of budding. The hatched larvae bite into the buds and grind oblong passages in the wood of the grafted bud. Damaged kidneys dry out quickly. Gall midge causes great harm to fruit crops and roses, especially in nurseries where planting material is cultivated.

Control measures. Preventive spraying of trees in the spring, before the leaves bloom, with fufanon or its analogs (Kemifos, karbofos), timely removal and burning of dried damaged eyes from the stock.

In the photo, Whitespotted flatworm

White-spotted leafworm flat, or white-spotted croesia Croesia holmiana L. (syn. Acalla holmiana L., Peronea holmiana L.) , is a pinkish-orange butterfly with a wingspan of 12-15 mm. The forewings are rusty-orange, light at the base and at the posterior margin. There is a large triangular spot with a dark border on the anterior margin. The fringe of the forewings is ocher-yellow, the hindwings are gray and darker at the edges. Caterpillar is greenish-yellow, 12-15 mm long, with a light brown head and black thoracic legs. There are two black spots on the sides of the yellowish-brown thoracic scutellum. Caterpillars roughly eat leaves, and after finishing feeding, pupate in leaves folded on the side. The leafworm damages pome and stone fruit crops, as well as many deciduous trees and shrubs of the Rosaceae family.

Control measures. Preventive spraying of all trees and berry bushes in spring, during bud break, with fufanon or its analogs (kemifos, karbofos).

All apricot pests are activated in the spring, begin their feeding cycle and at the same time cause destructive harm to the entire garden. Further to your attention are presented the dangerous pests of apricot and the fight against them on personal plot by acceptable means.

Pictured is a shy leafworm

Shy leafworm Ancylis achatana Den. et Schiff. - a butterfly with a wingspan of 16-20 mm. The forewings are silvery-gray with dark and light streaks and spots, the hind wings are brownish-gray; the males have a bend with a tuft of hairs. Caterpillars 15 mm long, brown, with light hairs and warts. Head, thoracic and anal shields, thoracic legs, dark or black. Pupa 8 mm long, dark brown with black transverse stripes on abdominal segments. One generation develops. Caterpillars of the third instar hibernate in a spider cocoon in the forks of thin branches, usually covered with a dry leaf. Since April, the caterpillars begin to feed, nibbling the blossoming buds, as a result of which juice drips from them, and later damages the buds, ovaries, young leaves and shoots. Unlike other leaf rollers, shy leaf rollers do not curl leaves. Caterpillars pupate in June, butterflies fly out after 11-14 days.

Females lay up to 160 eggs, placing them 1-3 along the central vein on both sides of the leaf. After 6-10 days, caterpillars hatch, leaves and skin of the fruit skeletonized. Caterpillars weave a spider's nest and hide in it at the slightest danger. Feeding continues until the beginning of August, the caterpillars molt twice, reach 5 mm in length, weave a cobweb cocoon and enter diapause until the next spring. The leafworm damages pome crops, stone fruits and many deciduous plants, especially those of the Rosaceae family.

Control measures. Preventive spraying of trees in spring, during bud break and immediately after flowering orchards, with fufanon or its analogs (kemifos, karbofos).

In the photo, the moth-ripped off

Moth-ripped fruit Erannis defoliaria Cl. (syn. Hybernia defoliaria Cl.,) - a butterfly with a male wingspan of 40 mm. Females are wingless, ocher-yellow with black dots on the back. The wings of the male are light yellow, on the front ones there are two transverse dark brown lines and a black dot in the middle, the base and apex are rusty-brown with small dark dots.

Caterpillars are brown with two dark stripes on the back and one yellow on the sides. Pupae 10-15 mm long, light brown. Eggs overwinter on branches at the base of the buds. When the buds open, caterpillars hatch, which feed first on the buds, then on the buds, ovaries, and then on the leaves, pulling them together with a cobweb. They severely harm stone fruit crops, in which the ovaries are damaged. Having finished feeding, the caterpillars go into the soil and pupate at a depth of 5-10 cm in an earthen capsule. In September, butterflies come out, which fly until late autumn. Wingless females climb trees and, after fertilization, lay from 200 to 350 eggs each, one by one or in groups. Moth - polyphagous
th pest, damages all fruit and many deciduous trees and shrubs.

Control measures. Prophylactic spraying of all trees and shrubs in spring, during bud break and immediately after flowering of fruits, with fufanon or its analogues (kemifos, karbofos). In autumn, in September, you can use glue belts on stems to catch butterflies, and with a large number of the latter, spray the trunks and stems with the same preparations that were used in the spring, strictly observing the waiting times for late-ripening varieties of fruit trees.

Watch the pests and diseases of the apricot on the video, where they are given good advice on organizing the care of your garden:

Apricot is found in almost every amateur and professional garden. It is impossible not to admire the seemingly unpretentious tree. It amazes with its spring splendor and delicious, very healthy fruits. Apricot, like any garden tree, has features in care and will respond to gardener mistakes with low yields. Only a competent approach to the cultivation of apricots will allow avoiding specific diseases and an abnormal lack of flowering and fruiting.

Why doesn't the apricot bear fruit?

There are several reasons for the absence of fruits on apricots, and in each case there are different ways to solve the problem.

Apricot is a delicious, beautiful and healthy fruit

Features of the variety

Apricot has long ceased to be the privilege of only the southern regions. Zoned varieties allow even residents of the Urals (for example, Orenburg) and Primorye to enjoy healthy and sweet fruits from their own tree. A gardener, deciding to plant a whimsical seedling, is looking forward to the appearance of the first delicate flowers and, of course, fragrant fruits. But, if the apricot was not taken into account when planting temperature conditions region and the tree is not adapted to survive in such conditions, it is useless to expect abundant flowering from it. Delicate buds of southern varieties do not tolerate severe frosts and die.

There is a high probability of complete death of an apricot planted without taking into account the adaptability of the variety to the growing area.

If the apricot is damaged by frost every winter, as well as by "sunburn", fruiting is delayed. The sprout directs its forces to the restoration of damaged parts, and flower buds are not laid.

Varietal seedlings begin to bloom in the third year

The age of the tree should also be taken into account. The flowering dates for varietal zoned seedlings obtained by grafting are 3-4 years. In trees grown from stone, the first flowering occurs at best 5–6 years after planting in the garden.

Growing conditions

Apricot is a rather demanding tree for the conditions in which it is grown.

Only fertile and well-drained soils provide abundant fruiting. When planting a tree in clay soil, as well as with a fairly close location of groundwater, fruiting will be absent.
Dislikes apricots and strong winds. Therefore, areas with strong drafts for cultivation are avoided.
Flaw sunlight makes the branches stretch. In this case, the apricot expends additional forces, which leads to a lack of flowering. Do not plant trees in shaded areas and allow planting to thicken.

Errors related to sprout care

Apricot requires careful and competent care. With a lack of attention, waiting for bountiful harvests is pointless. Even an adult, fruitful tree for a long time, under unfavorable conditions, ceases to impress with the presence of fruits.

Timely feeding will provide the plant with deficient micronutrients. For young trees, organic matter is used as fertilizer. For adults, a complex composition of 850 grams is introduced. superphosphate, 250 gr. potassium chloride and 350 gr. saltpeter.

However, an excess of both organic and mineral fertilizers can negatively affect yields. A tree oversaturated with top dressing "fattens". It impresses with its size and growth of shoots, reaching up to 1 meter and more per season. Significant growth due to high availability nutrients occurs to the detriment of fruiting.

Apricot loves light soils and sun

Excessive care turns into a lack of harvest. Let the tree rest during the season. Next spring it will delight you with abundant flowering.

Apricot is also sensitive to moisture. And if an excess leads to cracking of the fruit, then a deficiency leads to their absence at all.

The tree needs four basic watering during the season:

at the moment of awakening, at the beginning of spring growth (April);
with active growth (May);
before full ripening of fruits, two to three weeks (July, August);
pre-winter watering (October, November).

If the watering time of the apricot coincided with active rains, you should not add excess moisture. Nature will do the work itself.

Not in the last place to ensure the fruiting of apricot is competent pruning (processing). The tree tolerates any branch removal well. But in order to enhance the ability to produce flower buds, double pruning is carried out.

Spring pruning speeds up the emergence of young shoots

The first stage occurs in March before the start of sap flow. Shoots are completely removed, the direction of growth of which falls into the crown or horizontally upwards. Skeletal branches cannot be pruned. And the lateral branches growing from them are shortened when they reach 50 cm. After such pruning, the growth of shoots is enhanced with the formation of flower buds.

In June, repeated work is carried out, during which only the tops of young twigs are successful. This procedure provides additional growth of new side shoots, which will give flower buds for the next season.

For old, poorly fruiting trees, rejuvenating pruning is used. In addition to removing improperly growing shoots, skeletal branches are also significantly thinned out.

Don't spare old branches. New shoots on the apricot will provide him with a second youth and productivity.

Why does apricot bloom but not bear fruit?

Flowering under favorable conditions ends with the appearance of an ovary. But there are situations when even the presence of flowers does not guarantee an appropriate yield. Such an anomaly is quite common, but it can also be dealt with.

Returnable spring frosts

The tree, having entered the time of flowering, becomes defenseless. But no one is immune from the return of frost. And flowers affected by low temperatures die and fall off. Of course, the ovary will not appear this season. But this process can also be prevented:

If there is a threat of frost at night, apply the "smoke" method, making small fires in the garden during a frosty night.
Delay the flowering period of the tree to ensure that flowering does not coincide with recurrent frosts. To do this, since the fall, the apricot is watered abundantly, and the winter snow is compacted tightly around the trunk. Spring whitewashing with a steep lime solution will not hurt either.

Application special preparations type of auxins for spraying helps to delay flowering by at least 10 days.

Poor pollination conditions, what to do?

Most varietal zoned apricots are self-fertile and do not require additional conditions for the appearance of the ovary. But if a unisexual tree is planted, the ovary will not appear even with abundant flowering without cross-pollination. Therefore, they try to plant several plants in the gardens. In this case, the distance between them should not exceed 100 m, and the flowering time should coincide. There are several ways to influence the pollination process:

plant a self-fertile apricot near;
graft on an existing tree, taking material from a varietal plant;
replace with self-fertile.

Rain and fog prevent insects from performing their duties

Affects pollination and weather conditions. If the bloom coincided with a period of rains, drizzle or heavy fog, insects are not able to carry out pollen transfer.

Pests and diseases affecting the formation of the ovary

During flowering, apricot infects the fungal disease "burn" moliniosis. In this case, the flowers, and subsequently the leaves, turn brown and dry out. You can avoid a fungal disease. For this, for prophylactic purposes and for treatment, the tree is sprayed with solutions containing copper (copper oxychloride, cuproxate, Bordeaux liquid). Spraying is carried out in the autumn after the foliage has completely fallen off and in the spring before bud break.

A monilial burn is confused with a disease that is difficult to diagnose, in which the rudiments of flowers (pistils) are damaged even inside the buds. In this case, the flowers bloom on the tree, and the ovary is not formed.

Remember! The young ovary is destroyed by the plum moth. With vigorous reproduction, the pest can destroy the crop during the period of ovary appearance.

Other diseases of the apricot tree (photo)

There are a number of diseases and pests that can spoil the health of the apricot and reduce its yield.

Gray rot (moniliosis)

Disease of a fungal nature. It is activated with the arrival of heat in a humid environment. It affects young shoots and leaves, which wilt and turn brown. Infected fruits become covered with dark specks and begin to rot. Lost fruits do not fall from the tree and, remaining on the apricot until spring, become breeding grounds for infection.

Moniliosis affects both foliage and fruits

The fungus enters gardens with the wind, and is carried by birds and insects. The infection is actively spreading in the garden. Without appropriate measures, spores of moniliosis winter well in fallen leaves and infected fruits, branches.

What to do? Fighting moniliosis is difficult, but possible:

during the formation of "green buds", 3% Bordeaux liquid is used for spraying;
after flowering, you can use Horus by taking 3 gr. on a bucket of water;
before harvesting, but not less than 15 days in advance, spray the tree with Switch or Teldor.

When processing apricot for moniliosis, do not forget about other trees. Even if they do not have bright signs of infection, they are subject to preventive treatment.

Be sure to remove and destroy the affected parts of the plant and fruits. Autumn work with apricot involves the collection of foliage and fruits, which are disposed of, whitewashing the trunks with a solution of copper sulfate.

Gum therapy and its treatment

Apricot gum is quite common. Why is this happening?

The tree "cries" in response to damage

The release of gum is associated with the reaction of the tree to mechanical damage, to injuries caused by frost or temperature extremes, to excessive or improper pruning. The appearance of sticky formations is intensified by infections such as moliniasis and clasternosporiasis trapped in wounds. Inflows of gum are also observed on trunks, branches, and even foliage.

The affected areas must be removed to healthy wood. The surface is treated with a composition with copper sulfate. It is covered with garden varnish on top.

clasterosporium disease

Brown spots appear on apricot leaves affected by perforated spots. In their place, holes are formed in two weeks, and later premature leaf fall is possible.

The fungus is manifested by damage to the foliage

Fruits with perforated spots, while still green, are covered with red-brown spots, and by the time they ripen, they are completely deformed.

To combat the disease, all infected branches and leaves are cut off. For prevention purposes, spraying with 4% Bordeaux liquid or 1% copper sulfate is provided. The works are carried out in late autumn and spring.

Verticillosis - vertical leaf wilting

The insidious fungus, having got into the conductive channels of the wood through the wounds, infects young shoots and leaves. As a result, the foliage on the lower branches turns yellow, withers and begins to fall off. Gradually, the process spreads up the tree. Young trees are more susceptible to the disease.

Prevent flooding

To prevent disease, avoid excessive moisture, and even more so flooding. When digging the soil around the apricot, they try not to injure the roots, and the cut branches are disposed of in time. Wood processing is carried out with solutions of preparations of foundationol, previcura, vitaros.

Cytosporosis

The cytosporosis fungus settles between wood and bark. Under its influence, the leaves at the top begin to wither, and brown-brown spots and dark streaks appear on the bark. Over time, the fungus spreads throughout the tree: the leaves wither, the branches dry, and the plant dies.

Cytosporosis can kill a tree

To prevent the spread of infection, dry branches and affected areas are carefully removed to healthy wood. The contaminated material must be disposed of.

Not paying attention to unusual spots on the bark and dried branches, you can completely lose the entire tree.

Apricot viral infections and control

Viruses are more difficult to fight. On apricot, viral infections can be observed in the form of:

Plum "smallpox", which appears as sunken spots and stripes on the brown fruit. These apricots ripen prematurely and taste bad.
Ring-shaped "smallpox", which can be found as characteristic red bumps and spots on the fruit. The harvest falls ahead of schedule ripening.
Viral wilting. It appears as light green spots on the foliage. The sheet has seals and curls. And the fruits have brown flesh around the stone.
Tape mosaic. Over time, yellow streaks on the leaves develop into a lace pattern, and the foliage dies off.

To prevent infection of trees and the spread of viruses will help:

careful selection of healthy material for planting and vaccinations;
treatment of tools and hands with disinfectants when working in the garden;
increasing the resistance of the tree due to timely fertilizing and watering;
obligatory processing and sealing of places of cuts and damage on trees;
whitewashing of trunks with solutions of lime with copper sulfate.

Video. Why doesn't the apricot bear fruit?

Plan your apricot orchard, adhere strictly to maintenance guidelines, water and fertilize trees, create barriers against the development of infections and the spread of pests, and impressive yields are no longer just a dream.

Not all varieties of stone fruit crops are resistant to diseases and pests. Often there are situations when the apricot seedling does not bud, the leaves or shoots dry up near the tree. It happens that fungal infections also affect ripe fruits, nullifying all the efforts of the gardener. In some cases, the tree can be saved, in others, it dies completely. And it is possible to assess the prospects only with the correct analysis of the signs of pathology. And for this, the gardener must know the main diseases of apricot (these are moniliosis, clotterosporia, powdery mildew, etc.) and the most effective methods fight against them.

Description of the signs of apricot diseases

First you need to figure out exactly how the symptoms of the disease look. For example, you should pay attention to the following signs:

the apricot bark cracks - this may indicate the presence of cytosporosis;
resin on the trunk and branches, forming bizarrely frozen figures - this is gum flow, which can be associated with infectious diseases or wounds;
brown spots on leaves and fruits can be a manifestation of various pathologies. If, at the same time, after some time the leaves are curled, this may indicate gnomoniosis;
green leaves fall off, while sometimes there may be no other signs. Why apricot leaves wither and what to do in such a situation - difficult question, as the cause can be both illness and lack of nutrients. For example, leaves fall in May with gnomoniosis, clasterosporium disease. Sometimes it is even worth contacting the laboratory for a more accurate analysis;
the appearance of holes on apricot leaves can be caused by clasterosporiosis.

An apricot seedling does not bud for various reasons, including trauma to the roots during planting. But it is better to check the plant for various diseases.
If the apricot has dried up but sprouted, this may indicate that the tree damaged by cytosporosis can still be saved. So, if the shoots come from the root, then by autumn it will be possible to choose the strongest shoot and transplant.
If the apricot does not bloom after winter or dries up, if the leaves turn red and fall in June, all this can be a sign of illness and a signal that action must be taken immediately.

Apricot diseases

Diseases and treatment of apricot is a very important topic for gardeners. The main ailments of this culture are moniliosis, gnomoniosis, cytoporosis and gum flow. But other options cannot be ruled out. For example, it can be scab. It appears as olive brown spots on the underside of the leaf. These spots gradually increase in size, then the leaves roll up and fall off. This reflects badly on flower buds, there is a risk that the tree will not survive the winter. But even if it survives the cold, there will be problems with the harvest: the fruit will grow small and cracked. Other pathologies are no less dangerous.

Moniliosis

One of the most common diseases is apricot moniliosis. Another name for it is gray stone rot. Its symptoms appear in the spring. First, the flowers turn brown and dry, then the leaves and young fruit twigs. In the future, infection of the ovaries may occur. And pretty soon they dry up, and then the same thing happens with the shoots and even individual branches. That is why apricot leaves fall off in May. But it doesn't end there. The fruits also suffer from the disease: they shrivel, the pulp becomes brown, the skin begins to rot.

Moniliosis

Various insects, including oriental moths and bud weevils, contribute to the spread of moniliosis. It is also transmitted by contact between a sick and healthy fetus. Therefore, to prevent the disease, it is recommended to thin out the ovaries after shedding in June.

Primary infestation usually occurs during the flowering period. Favorable conditions for it are atmospheric precipitation - frequent rains, fogs, abundant dew. A cool spring, with a long flowering period, also promotes its proliferation.

The causative agent of moniliosis is the fungus monila cinezea bonord. It usually hibernates in the tissues of the primary shoots, and wakes up in the spring. Methods of dealing with it below.

Clasterosporium disease

Apricot clasterosporium is also called perforated spot. This is a fungal disease, and a very common one. Similar pathologies are found in all stone fruit plants. This disease is the answer to the question of why apricot leaves turn red in June. Although the disease affects all organs of the plant, including flowers and fruits, it is mainly the leaves that are affected. Reddish or purple spots appear on them, and they can also be brown. But there are so many of them that from a distance the leaves can appear just red. The spots grow rather quickly, and soon holes are formed in their place, surrounded by a red border. These are important diagnostic signs to distinguish spotting from other varieties. Incubation period the disease is 10-15 days.

Clasterosporium disease

Cytosporosis

Cytosporosis of apricot is also an infectious pathology. It manifests itself as drying out of a tree, and primarily affects the bark. At first, only a small area becomes dry, then it begins to crack along the border with healthy tissues. The diseased bark resembles "goose bumps" in appearance; many dark small tubercles appear on it. Inside such formations there is a causative agent of the disease - a fungus (it can be of two types - Cytospora cineta or Cytospora leucostoma). Apricot leaves and flowers also dry up, which in such cases may not fall from the tree for a long time. In severe cases of the disease, the fungus can penetrate deeper, already into the subcortical layers. This is manifested by the outflow of gum, which leads to a violation of the conductivity of woody vessels.

The affected areas of the bark acquire a yellow tint. Gradually, the lesion spreads further and further, and as a result, the tree may die.

Important! The description of the symptoms is a bit like black cancer, another stone fruit disease. But these pathologies have different pathogens, and black cancer is characterized not so much by bumps as concentric circles.

Gnomoniosis

Also called brown spot. It belongs to the number of infectious diseases, its causative agent is a marsupial mushroom. This pathology is typical for the southern regions. It mainly affects the leaves, much less often the fruits. The first symptoms become noticeable in the summer already at the beginning of June. At first, subtle yellow spots appear on the leaves, which gradually increase, become brown, and then cover the entire leaf blade. Over time, in the center of the leaf, the spots dry out, and at the edges they become bright yellow, thickening is observed in this place. Then the leaves begin to curl and dry up, and most often the tree drops them.

Gnomoniosis

If the fruit is damaged, then they crack, the pulp seems to dry out to the stone. Green fruits most often crumble, while ripe fruits remain on the tree, but change shape.

Important! The incubation period of the disease is 6-8 days at an air temperature of 16-21 ° C. In this case, the infection most intensively affects the leaves and fruits of middle age, and the young often remain intact.

With gnomoniosis, the apricot tends to shed its leaves as soon as possible, about 2 months before the natural onset of leaf fall. This leads to a decrease in the growth of shoots, and in difficult situations the whole tree can die, especially in a frosty winter.

Gum therapy

Apricot gum removal (its second name is gommosis) is most often not considered as an independent phenomenon, but accompanies other diseases. For example, it occurs in cytoporosis, clasterosporium disease, bacterial lesions, moniliosis, when the integrity of tissues is disturbed, and the causative agents of the listed infections enter the resulting wounds. This is what causes the gum to flow. It is essentially a resin that resembles amber. An accumulation of a yellowish sticky substance can be seen just at the site of the lesion, in the cracks in the bark.

The development of this pathology is facilitated by factors such as growing on heavy soils with a high level of acidity, as well as a high level of moisture and lack of nutrients.

Gum therapy

How to revive an apricot

With moniliosis, damaged shoots and fruits must be destroyed. After that, it is imperative to carry out treatment with Horus or Topaz 100 EC.

It is advisable to treat cytosporosis only in the early stages. If the spores of the fungus have already penetrated deeply, the tree cannot be saved. The diseased bark is removed mechanically by cutting it off with a knife. The resulting wound must be disinfected, for which a 2% solution of copper sulfate, nigrol putty is used. If a large area is cut off, you need to additionally bandage it. All affected leaves, fruits, twigs should be removed so that the disease does not spread further.

If gum flow has begun in an apricot, what to do - a question relevant to any gardener. They begin to resuscitate the tree after the sap flow ends. The wounds are cleaned with a sharp garden knife until healthy areas appear behind them. Then they are disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulfate and covered with a mixture of sifted ash and nigrol (in a ratio of 3: 7).

To combat gnomoniosis, you need to carry out anti-aging pruning of weakened trees. After that, the wounds should definitely be disinfected. Trees are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid (1% solution), zineb (0.4%) or captan (0.5%) until the end of May. During the month, 2 more sprays are carried out with a break of 2 weeks. How to spray apricots after flowering? You can use the same chemicals as for the first spring treatments. The next one is done after harvesting the fruits.

For clasterosporium disease, treatment is carried out with a drug such as chorus during the growing season. Before bud break, it is advisable to spray the tree with Bordeaux liquid.

The main way to deal with scab is to treat apricots during flowering with one of the popular fungicides, for example, carpene 65 WP.

How to deal with aphids on apricot? A biological method like attracting ladybirds does not harm nature, but it is not effective enough if the infection has already begun. Therefore, it is recommended to use pyrethrin-based insecticides or vegetable oils(for example, Vitax organic). Aktofit and fitoverm cannot boast of such a degree of environmental safety, but they are generally not toxic to humans.

Important! Disinfection of apricot to prevent aphid infestation is recommended to be done in early spring or already in autumn.

Insecticides are also used to treat scale insects. The most effective are kinmix and aliot.

Preventive measures

Prevention of moniliosis is the already mentioned thinning of the ovaries after shedding in June. It is important to dig up the trunks in a timely manner and apply mineral and organic fertilizers. They certainly carry out the so-called eradicating spraying, for which they take a 1% solution of DNOC. This is done about 2-3 weeks before the buds open. It is recommended to spray the tree with 2-3% Bordeaux liquid in the pink bud phase, and after flowering, carry out another treatment, but already with a less concentrated 1% solution.

Harvest healthy apricots

Prevention of cytosporosis is reduced to the fact that you need to check for the presence of sunburn or frostbites on the bark. Such affected areas must be disinfected without fail. It should also be remembered that cytoporosis, like other stone fruit diseases, affects primarily weakened trees. Therefore, apricots need top dressing, especially if they grow on poor soils. Potash fertilizers are usually used in such cases. For preventive purposes, preparations are also introduced into the soil that increase the resistance of trees to diseases, for example, novosil. It is recommended to treat trees with antifungal agents, even if there are no signs of damage.

Important! Measures such as collecting all fallen leaves, even if they remain on the branches, and then embedding them in the ground, help from gnomoniosis. In addition, it is necessary to cultivate the soil in the area of the near-trunk circles, while simultaneously applying mineral fertilizers.

Prevention of gum flow is timely pruning of trees and prevention of injury to the bark.

To prevent apricot pests from appearing in the garden, you need to lure insects that feed on aphids. These are, for example, ladybugs, which in the garden are attracted by the smell of herbs like parsley.

Frequently asked questions about apricot diseases

Perhaps the most common questions among gardeners are why the apricot died and how to revive the apricot seedling.

In the first case, of course, nothing can be done, since the gardener should have paid more attention to the tree earlier. For example, pay attention to the fact that apricot leaves green leaves. This tree can die from all the diseases described above if they were not treated. In addition, this is a southern plant, and if the gardener got a zoned variety, then the seedling must be fed and sprayed, and not only for the prevention of diseases. Growth stimulants (such as epin) should also be used to help you cope with even adverse conditions.

How to revive an apricot seedling? This can only be done if the disease has not gone too far. And first of all, you need to get rid of the affected branches and leaves. If the seedling begins to fade before planting, then it can be reanimated with a solution of camphor alcohol. Take 15 drops of the active ingredient in 0.5 liters of water. The roots of the seedling and its trunk are moistened with this solution. It is best to do this with a soft brush.

Not all apricot varieties are resistant to diseases and pests. But proper care, competent feeding and timely preventive measures taken can prevent their occurrence.

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